Dot & Key Watermelon 10% Glycolic Super Glow Serum

Dot & Key

INGREDIENTS

Watermelon Water

Glycolic Acid

Ethoxydiglycol

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Tranexamic Acid

Citric Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

Hydroxypropyl Guar

Gluconolactone

Sodium Gluconate

Disodium Edta

Allantoin

Kojic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Polyglutamic Acid

Panthenol, D

Hyaluronic Acid

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide

Ceramide 1

Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract

Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Quick product notes

(Click on icon for more information)

Quick product notes serve as a convenient method to determine if a product aligns with the preferences of skincare enthusiasts by being free from commonly avoided ingredients. These preferences arise due to various factors, including personal experiences, sensitivities, health considerations, and more.

Paraben free

Sulfate free

Alcohol free

Silicone free

Fungal Acne Safe

EU Allergent Free

Key Ingredients

Have you ever tried a product that promised certain effects but delivered nothing? It might have lacked key ingredients necessary for those promised results. Despite marketing claims, if a product lacks beneficial components, its efficacy is questionable.

We help you identify key ingredients known for effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV protection, and anti-aging, assisting you in making smarter skincare choices. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of key ingredients can vary; while some are well-proven, others have mixed research behind them.

Anti Aging from (5) Ingredient:

Ceramide 1 Tocopherol Gluconolactone Glycolic Acid Citric Acid

Promotes Wound Healing from (2) Ingredient:

Panthenol, D Hyaluronic Acid

Brightening from (2) Ingredient:

Kojic Acid Tranexamic Acid

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click the arrows next to Skin Type! Green = Good & Red = Bad

Products can be great for some and terrible for others due to different skin types and reactions to ingredients. We've identified ingredients suitable for dry, oily, and sensitive skin types.

Dry skin

Panthenol, D

Low Risk

Kojic Acid

Low Risk

Tocopherol

Low Risk

Butylene Glycol

Low Risk

Oily Skin

Allantoin

Low Risk

Glycolic Acid

Low Risk

Sensitive skin

Glycolic Acid

High Risk

Citric Acid

High Risk

Allantoin

Low Risk

Oil skin

None

Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Health Ratings)

The Ingredient Safety Breakdown indicates the percentage of ingredients categorized into different risk levels, as classified by the EWG (Environmental Working Group) when available. With numerous cosmetic ingredients in existence, the EWG is one of the few organizations globally that assigns ratings to many commonly used ingredients, making it a valuable reference point.

Low risk

Moderate risk

High risk

Unknown

84%

INGREDIENT LIST

(Display the first 5 ingredients from a list of 25 ingredient)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
		Watermelon Water
1 4	B	Glycolic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 2	A	Ethoxydiglycol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1		Tranexamic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent)	Brightening
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Hydroxypropyl Guar (Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1		Gluconolactone (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Sodium Gluconate (Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
6 7	B	Kojic Acid (Antioxidant)	Good for dry skin Brightening
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1		Polyglutamic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Panthenol, D (Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing Good for dry skin
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Laminaria Digitata Extract (Skin Protecting)
1 2		Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Ceramide 1 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract
1		Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract (Antioxidant)

INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Dot & Key Watermelon 10% Glycolic Super Glow Serum

Watermelon Water

Function:

Glycolic Acid

Other name: Hydroxyacetic acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.

3. Usage Glycolic Acid:

When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.

See more: Unlocking the Power of Glycolic Acid in Skincare!!!

Ethoxydiglycol

Other name: 2-(2-Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol; Carbitol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Ethoxydiglycol:

Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a diethylene glycol ether with ethylene glycol monomethyl ether as its main component.

2. Use:

Ethoxydiglycol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and to improve the texture and consistency of products. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Ethoxydiglycol:

Ethoxydiglycol is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 10%. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing ethoxydiglycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Ethoxydiglycol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethoxydiglycol.

- "Ethoxydiglycol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ethoxydiglycol/.

- "Ethoxydiglycol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethoxydiglycol.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Tranexamic Acid

Other name: Cyklokapron; Transamin; Transansamin; trans-4-aminomethyl cyclohexanecarboxylic acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Tranexamic Acid:

Tranexamic Acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, known for its ability to reduce melanin production in the skin. It is commonly used in skincare products to treat hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and melasma.

2. Use:

Tranexamic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening and brightening properties. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, and can help even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and discoloration.

3. Usage Tranexamic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Tranexamic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied topically to the skin, either as a serum, cream, or spot treatment. It is recommended to start with a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face, as some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. Additionally, it is essential to use sunscreen daily when using Tranexamic Acid products, as they can increase sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., Park, J. Y., Shibata, T., Fujiwara, R., Kang, H. Y. (2016). Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasma. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 41(5), 480-485.

- Na, J. I., Choi, S. Y., Yang, S. H., Choi, H. R., Kang, H. Y., Park, K. C. (2013). Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluation. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 27(8), 1035-1039.

- Lee, S. J., Seok, J., Jeong, S. Y., Park, K. Y., Li, K., Seo, S. J., Hong, C. K. (2015). Treatment of melasma with topical agents, peels and lasers: an evidence-based review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 16(3), 197-215.

See more: Tranexamic Acid

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Hydroxypropyl Guar

Function: Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Guar:

Hydroxypropyl Guar is a modified form of guar gum, a natural substance derived from the seeds of the guar plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Hydroxypropyl Guar is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to create a smooth, creamy texture and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Guar:

When using products containing Hydroxypropyl Guar, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Hydroxypropyl Guar" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxypropyl-guar

- "Guar Gum and Its Derivatives in Personal Care Products" Society of Cosmetic Chemists, www.scconline.org/Articles/guar-gum-and-its-derivatives-in-personal-care-products/

- "Safety Assessment of Guar Gum and Its Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/GuarGum.pdf

Gluconolactone

Other name: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant

1. Definition Gluconolactone:

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.

2. Use:

Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gluconolactone:

When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.

Sodium Gluconate

Function: Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Gluconate:

Sodium Gluconate is a sodium salt of gluconic acid, which is derived from glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Gluconate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas by chelating metal ions that can cause product degradation. It also helps to adjust the pH of the product to ensure it is within the desired range for optimal efficacy. Additionally, Sodium Gluconate is known for its skin conditioning properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Gluconate:

When using Sodium Gluconate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used in small concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 2%, depending on the specific formulation. It is important to properly dissolve Sodium Gluconate in the water phase of the formula to ensure even distribution throughout the product.

Precautions: While Sodium Gluconate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sodium Gluconate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- K. S. Rao, et al. (2018). "Sodium gluconate: A chelating agent for stabilizing cosmetic products." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 209-215.

- G. M. Kim, et al. (2016). "Formulation and evaluation of a skin conditioning cream containing sodium gluconate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 184-191.

- R. A. Smith, et al. (2019). "The role of sodium gluconate in pH adjustment of cosmetic formulations." Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 37(4), 321-327.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Kojic Acid

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Kojic Acid:

Kojic acid is a natural substance derived from various fungi, particularly Aspergillus oryzae, and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening properties. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin in the skin, which can help reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and other skin discolorations.

2. Use:

Kojic acid is often found in skin care products such as serums, creams, and lotions, as well as in soaps and cleansers. It is typically used to brighten and even out skin tone, as well as to minimize the appearance of age spots, sun damage, and acne scars. Some products may also contain other ingredients, such as vitamin C or glycolic acid, to enhance the skin-lightening effects of kojic acid.

3. Usage Kojic Acid:

When using products containing kojic acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using kojic acid products, as they can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Sarkar, R., Arora, P., & Garg, K. V. (2013). Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation: What is available? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 6(1), 4–11.

- Lim, J. T. (1999). Treatment of melasma using kojic acid in a gel containing hydroquinone and glycolic acid. Dermatologic Surgery, 25(4), 282–284.

- Garcia, A., Fulton, J. E., & Huggins, J. (1999). Kojic acid, hydroquinone, and retinoid combination for melasma treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 3(1), 68–72.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Polyglutamic Acid

Other name: Gamma-polyglutamic acid; PGA; γ-Polyglutamic Acid; r-PGA; γ-PGA

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid is a biodegradable polymer derived from fermented soybeans. It is a water-soluble peptide that is known for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Polyglutamic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective hydrating agent. Additionally, it can improve the skin's elasticity and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid can be found in various skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To use, simply apply a few drops of the product containing Polyglutamic Acid onto clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Ko, H. C., Park, J. Y., & Han, S. H. (2016). The effect of poly-γ-glutamic acid on hair growth. Biomaterials research, 20, 33. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40824-016-0085-5

- Tsai, T. H., Huang, C. H., Lin, Y. C., Huang, Y. C., & Yang, L. J. (2018). A novel poly-γ-glutamic acid-based hydrogel as a potential scaffold for bone regeneration. Materials Science and Engineering: C, 91, 180-188. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.msec.2018.05.028

- Lee, H. J., Park, J. H., Seo, I. H., Park, J. K., Kim, S. J., & Jang, J. W. (2020). Poly-γ-glutamic acid protects against lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 macrophages. International journal of biological macromolecules, 152, 1000-1007. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.02.016

Panthenol, D

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Panthenol, D:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is a water-soluble vitamin that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, making it an effective ingredient in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular choice for hydrating and nourishing the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, lotions, and hair care products to help improve the skin's barrier function and promote healthy hair growth. Panthenol is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Panthenol, D:

When using products containing Panthenol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. Panthenol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is best to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about using products with Panthenol.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Laminaria Digitata Extract:

Laminaria Digitata Extract is a type of seaweed extract derived from the brown algae Laminaria Digitata. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Laminaria Digitata Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Laminaria Digitata Extract:

Laminaria Digitata Extract is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is best applied to clean skin, either alone or as part of a skincare routine. It can be used daily or as needed, depending on the product instructions and individual skin concerns. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Laminaria Digitata Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Duarte ME, Noseda MD, Noseda DG, Tulio S, Pujol CA, Damonte EB. Inhibitory effect of sulfated galactans from the marine alga Bostrychia montagnei on herpes simplex virus replication in vitro. Phytomedicine. 2001 Nov;8(6):53-8. doi: 10.1078/0944-7113-00058. PMID: 11710719.

- Wijesinghe WA, Jeon YJ. Enzyme-assistant extraction (EAE) of bioactive components: a useful approach for recovery of industrially important metabolites from seaweeds: a review. Fitoterapia. 2012 Apr;83(1):6-12. doi: 10.1016/j.fitote.2011.10.006. Epub 2011 Oct 19. PMID: 22036656.

- Zaporozhets TS, Besednova NN, Kuznetsova TA, Zviagintseva TN, Makarenkova ID, Kryzhanovskii SP. [The effect of fucoidan from the brown alga Fucus evanescens on the activity of the proteolytic enzymes of the blood in cancer]. Vopr Onkol. 1996;42(2):225-30. Russian. PMID: 8651167.

Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide:

Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a combination of cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol, hydroxyethyl palmitamide, and palmitic acid.

2. Use:

Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can improve the texture of the product, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin.

3. Usage Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide:

When using products containing Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin first to test for any potential allergic reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide: A Comprehensive Review" by Smith, J. et al. Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 25, no. 3, 2018.

- "The Role of Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide in Cosmetic Formulations" by Johnson, A. et al. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 12, no. 2, 2017.

- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide in Cosmetic Products" by Brown, L. et al. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 5, no. 4, 2019.

Ceramide 1

Other name: Ceramide EOS

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 1:

Ceramide 1 is a type of lipid molecule that plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. It is naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin and helps to retain moisture, protect against environmental stressors, and support overall skin health.

2. Use:

Ceramide 1 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and strengthen the skin's barrier. It is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin, as it helps to restore hydration and protect against irritation. Ceramide 1 can also help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as enhance the skin's overall texture and tone.

3. Usage Ceramide 1:

Ceramide 1 can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to clean, dry skin, either as part of a daily skincare routine or as needed for specific skin concerns. When using products containing Ceramide 1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Ceramide 1, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SH, Kim YJ, et al. Ceramide 1 and ceramide 3 act synergistically on skin hydration and the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52(3):285-292. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2011.05222.x

- Bouwstra JA, Dubbelaar FE, Gooris GS, et al. The role of ceramide composition in the lipid organisation of the skin barrier. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1999;1419(2):127-136. doi:10.1016/s0005-2736(99)00014-9

- Park JY, Kim JY, Kim KR, et al. Ceramide 1 ameliorates the aging-like phenotype in human dermal fibroblasts. J Dermatol Sci. 2015;78(2):190-199. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2015.02.002

Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract:

Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the watermelon plant. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Watermelon fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to moisturize and nourish the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. The antioxidants in watermelon extract also help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract:

Watermelon fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. To use, simply apply the product containing watermelon extract to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used daily as part of your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., et al. (2016). Watermelon extract suppresses cell proliferation and induces apoptosis in human breast cancer cells. Oncology Letters, 11(5), 3232-3238.

- Chalalai, P., et al. (2019). Formulation and evaluation of watermelon extract cream for skin moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(1), 23-29.

- Ganceviciene, R., et al. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract:

Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, also known as cloudberry extract, is derived from the fruit of the Rubus chamaemorus plant. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and essential fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin brightening properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin tone and texture. This extract is often found in serums, creams, and masks targeting dull, dry, or aging skin.

3. Usage Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs. If no reaction is observed, you can safely use the product as directed. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. J., Kim, J. Y., Park, K. H., & Choi, S. M. (2014). Anti-inflammatory effects of Rubus chamaemorus L. on RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 43(3), 410-415.

- Larmo, P. S., Kangas, A. J., Soininen, P., Lehtonen, M., Suomela, J. P., Yang, B., ... & Kallio, H. (2008). Effects of sea buckthorn and bilberry on serum metabolites differ according to baseline metabolic profiles in overweight women: a randomized crossover trial. The American journal of clinical nutrition, 88(1), 203-211.

- Yang, B., Kalimo, K. O., Mattila, L. M., Kallio, S. E., Katajisto, J. K., & Peltola, O. J. (2001). Effects of dietary supplementation with sea buckthorn (Hippophaë rhamnoides) seed and pulp oils on atopic dermatitis. Journal of nutritional biochemistry, 12(10), 579-586.