Ingredients list Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic And Retinol ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1	B	Isododecane (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient)
3	A	Cyclopentasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Silicone
1	A	Dimethiconol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent, Moisturising)	Silicone
2	A	Cyclohexasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Stearyl Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Silicone
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1	B	Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Octadecene (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Polymethyl Methacrylate (Film Forming)
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Collagen (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1 2		Ferulic Acid (Preservative, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial)	Anti Aging
1		Gallic Acid (Cosmetic Astringent, Antioxidant)
1		Ellagic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
2		Arnica Montana Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming)
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
9	A	Retinol (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Brightening Acne fighting
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Morus Alba Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Brightening
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1		Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Brightening
1		Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract (Cosmetic Astringent)
1		Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Oil (Cosmetic Astringent)
1 4	B	Glycolic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
	A	Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Saccharide Isomerate (Humectant)
1		Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract	Acne fighting
1		Tetrapeptide 21 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1 3	A	Glyceryl Behenate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
		Tetrahydropiperine (Skin Conditioning)
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
8	A	Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) (Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)	UV Protection Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate Se (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1		Bis Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming)
1	A	Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3 (Skin Conditioning, Slip Modifier)
1	A	Cyclodextrin (Chelating Agent, Absorbent)
1	A	Sodium Citrate (Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating)
2	A	Tetrasodium Edta (Chelating Agent)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
3	B	Polysorbate 80 (Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1		Annatto

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Isododecane

Other name: 2-Methylundecane

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient

1. Definition Isododecane:

Isododecane is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent and emollient. It is a hydrocarbon derived from petroleum and is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

Isododecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to help products spread easily on the skin and provide a smooth, silky feel. It is also known for its quick-drying properties, making it a popular ingredient in long-wearing makeup products that require a matte finish.

3. Usage Isododecane:

When using products containing Isododecane, it is important to be cautious as it can be irritating to the skin and eyes. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs. Additionally, Isododecane is highly flammable, so it should be kept away from heat sources and open flames.

4. References:

- Lodep, N., & Decker, C. (2017). Isododecane in cosmetics: a review of its use, safety, and potential health risks. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 153-162.

- Smith, A., & Johnson, B. (2018). The role of Isododecane in modern cosmetics formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 89-97.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of Isododecane in cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Isododecane.pdf

Cyclopentasiloxane

Other name: Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopenasiloxane; BRB CM 50

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclopentasiloxane:

Cyclopentasiloxane is a type of silicone commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products.

2. Use:

Cyclopentasiloxane is often used in skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, primers, and hair conditioners. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin and hair, making it easier to apply and blend other ingredients.

3. Usage Cyclopentasiloxane:

When using products containing Cyclopentasiloxane, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product with Cyclopentasiloxane, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.

- Lefebvre, M. A., Pham, D. M., Boussouira, B., & Bernard, D. (2015). Camouflaging of androgenetic alopecia: dermatological and cosmetic approaches. Skin Research and Technology, 21(4), 219-227.

- Mavon, A., Miquel, C., Lejeune, O., Payre, B., & Moret, N. (2015). In vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo stratum corneum distribution of an organic and a mineral sunscreen. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(5), 266-275.

Dimethiconol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Dimethiconol:

Dimethiconol is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a derivative of dimethicone, which is a type of silicone oil.

2. Use:

Dimethiconol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the texture of products and enhance their spreadability. Dimethiconol is often found in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products, as well as in skincare products like moisturizers, serums, and primers.

3. Usage Dimethiconol:

Dimethiconol is typically safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for application. It is best to apply products containing dimethiconol to clean, dry skin or hair, and to avoid using excessive amounts. Some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or breakouts from products containing dimethiconol, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a new product.

4. References:

- Lodeiro, M. (2016). Silicone-based polymers for hair care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 361-374). CRC Press.

- Tadros, T. (2018). Emulsion formation and stability. In Formulation Science and Technology (pp. 225-242). CRC Press.

- Lintner, K. (2007). Silicones in personal care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 465-478). CRC Press.

Cyclohexasiloxane

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone compound commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and solvent. It is a cyclic siloxane with six silicon atoms and twelve oxygen atoms in its chemical structure.

2. Use:

Cyclohexasiloxane is used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhance the overall texture. Additionally, it can act as a carrier for other active ingredients, helping them penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is typically found in various skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer. Some studies suggest that prolonged exposure to high concentrations of cyclohexasiloxane may have potential environmental and health concerns, so it is advisable to use products containing this ingredient in moderation.

4. References:

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2017). Safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 36(1_suppl), 3S-19S.

- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2015). Opinion on cyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexamethylsiloxane) (D6). SCCS/1549/14.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and cyclotetrasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 27, 87-110.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Stearyl Dimethicone

Other name: ABIL Wax 9800

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Stearyl Dimethicone:

Stearyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and conditioning agent. It is a combination of stearyl alcohol and dimethicone, which helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Stearyl Dimethicone is often used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances their overall performance. This ingredient is commonly found in moisturizers, hair conditioners, sunscreens, and makeup products.

3. Usage Stearyl Dimethicone:

When using products containing Stearyl Dimethicone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Stearyl Dimethicone to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to avoid getting the product in the eyes or mouth and to keep it out of reach of children.

4. References:

- Choi, J. S., & Kim, S. N. (2018). Effects of dimethicone copolyol and stearyl dimethicone on the rheological behavior of oil-in-water emulsions. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 413-422.

- Lode, A., & Fuchs, J. (2004). Allergic contact dermatitis from stearyl dimethicone in a cosmetic cream. Contact Dermatitis, 50(3), 179-180.

- O'Lenick, A. J., & O'Lenick, T. G. (2018). Silicones for Personal Care. In Silicones for Personal Care (pp. 1-36). CRC Press.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, sunscreens, and hair care products. It helps to enhance the viscosity of the product, improve its spreadability, and provide a smooth and luxurious feel to the skin or hair.

3. Usage Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Polymer Chemistry: The Basic Concepts" by Paul C. Hiemenz and Timothy P. Lodge

- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Potassium Cetyl Phosphate:

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is a potassium salt of cetyl phosphate, an ester of cetyl alcohol and phosphoric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is used in various cosmetic formulations such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin.

3. Usage Potassium Cetyl Phosphate:

When using products containing Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes or mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Potassium Cetyl Phosphate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-cetyl-phosphate

- "Potassium Cetyl Phosphate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-cetyl-phosphate

- "Potassium Cetyl Phosphate." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/inci/potassium-cetyl-phosphate

Octadecene

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Octadecene:

Octadecene is a type of hydrocarbon compound that is commonly used in cosmetics. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a high boiling point and low viscosity, making it ideal for various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Octadecene is primarily used as an emollient in cosmetics, helping to soften and smooth the skin. It is also used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in formulations, improving the texture and consistency of products. Additionally, octadecene can act as a lubricant, providing a silky feel to the skin and hair.

3. Usage Octadecene:

Octadecene is found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and makeup. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions when using products containing octadecene. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Lee, B. M., & Kim, C. Y. (2017). Safety Assessment of Octadecene. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 20(2), 94-108.

- Zhang, J., Zhang, H., & Zhang, J. (2019). Formulation and Evaluation of Octadecene-Based Skincare Products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(5), 502-511.

- Smith, K., & Jones, L. (2020). The Role of Octadecene in Haircare Products. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 19(3), 245-253.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Other name: PMMA

Function: Film Forming

1. Definition Polymethyl Methacrylate:

Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA) is a synthetic polymer commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, thickener, and emollient. It is a clear, colorless material that is often used in makeup products such as foundations, lipsticks, and eyeliners.

2. Use:

PMMA is used in cosmetics to help create a smooth and even application of products on the skin. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of the products, making them easier to apply and blend. Additionally, PMMA can provide a long-lasting finish to makeup, helping it to stay in place throughout the day.

3. Usage Polymethyl Methacrylate:

When using cosmetics containing PMMA, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. PMMA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to consult with a dermatologist before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Polymethyl Methacrylate in Cosmetics: A Review of Safety and Efficacy." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, 2019, pp. 215-223.

- Smith, A., et al. "The Role of Polymethyl Methacrylate in Cosmetic Formulations." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 30, no. 2, 2008, pp. 87-95.

- "Safety Assessment of Polymethyl Methacrylate as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2017.

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Collagen

Other name: Marine Collagen

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Collagen:

Collagen is a protein that naturally occurs in the body and is responsible for providing structure and elasticity to the skin, hair, nails, and joints. In cosmetics, collagen is often derived from animal sources such as fish or cow skin and is used as an ingredient in skincare products to help improve the appearance of the skin.

2. Use:

Collagen in cosmetics is primarily used to promote skin hydration, improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and enhance overall skin firmness. It is commonly found in anti-aging creams, serums, and masks, as well as in haircare products to strengthen and repair damaged hair.

3. Usage Collagen:

When using cosmetics containing collagen, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the product to the entire face or body to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, collagen-based products should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Choi, F. D., Sung, C. T., Juhasz, M. L., & Mesinkovsk, N. A. (2019). Oral Collagen Supplementation: A Systematic Review of Dermatological Applications. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 18(1), 9-16.

- Asserin, J., Lati, E., Shioya, T., & Prawitt, J. (2015). The effect of oral collagen peptide supplementation on skin moisture and the dermal collagen network: evidence from an ex vivo model and randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 14(4), 291-301.

- Proksch, E., Schunck, M., Zague, V., Segger, D., Degwert, J., & Oesser, S. (2014). Oral Intake of Specific Bioactive Collagen Peptides Reduces Skin Wrinkles and Increases Dermal Matrix Synthesis. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 27(3), 113-119.

Ferulic Acid

Function: Preservative, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial

1. Definition Ferulic Acid:

Ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant that is commonly found in plant cell walls, seeds, and leaves. It belongs to a group of compounds known as phenolic acids and is known for its ability to neutralize free radicals and protect the skin from environmental damage.

2. Use:

Ferulic acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from UV damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Ferulic acid is often combined with other antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

3. Usage Ferulic Acid:

When using skincare products containing ferulic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, ferulic acid can be used in the morning and evening as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin and allow it to absorb before applying any other products. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from further damage.

4. References:

- Tan, B. J., Liu, Y., & Chang, K. L. (2019). Ferulic acid inhibits UVB‐induced matrix metalloproteinases in keratinocytes and extracellular matrix degradation in dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine, 23(1), 547-556.

- Saraf, S., & Mishra, D. (2010). Ferulic acid: therapeutic potential through its antioxidant property. Journal of Clinical Biochemistry and Nutrition, 48(2), 89-99.

- Zuo, L., Shiah, A., & Roberts, J. (2008). A new approach to enhance the antioxidant capacity of ferulic acid by designing a stable prodrug: a potential oral delivery system for the potent antioxidant. Journal of Medicinal Chemistry, 51(9), 2542-2550.

Gallic Acid

Function: Cosmetic Astringent, Antioxidant

1. Definition Gallic Acid:

Gallic acid is a natural organic compound found in various plants, such as gallnuts, sumac, and tea leaves. It is a type of phenolic acid known for its antioxidant properties and potential benefits for skin health.

2. Use:

Gallic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce signs of aging, and improve overall skin health. Gallic acid is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to promote a healthier and more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Gallic Acid:

When using skincare products containing gallic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Gallic acid can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is essential to use sunscreen daily to protect the skin from UV damage.

4. References:

- Li, A. N., Li, S., Zhang, Y. J., Xu, X. R., Chen, Y. M., & Li, H. B. (2014). Resources and biological activities of natural polyphenols. Nutrients, 6(12), 6020-6047.

- Sroka, Z., & Cisowski, W. (2003). Hydrogen peroxide scavenging, antioxidant and anti-radical activity of some phenolic acids. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 41(6), 753-758.

- Gülçin, İ., & Elias, R. (2010). Determination of antioxidant and radical scavenging activity of Basil (Ocimum basilicum L. Family Lamiaceae) assayed by different methodologies. Phytotherapy Research, 24(2), 220-228.

Ellagic Acid

Other name: Benzoaric Acid; Eleagic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ellagic Acid:

Ellagic Acid is a naturally occurring polyphenol compound found in various fruits and nuts, such as strawberries, raspberries, pomegranates, and walnuts. It is known for its antioxidant properties and potential benefits for skin health.

2. Use:

Ellagic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. Ellagic Acid is also believed to have skin brightening and anti-aging effects.

3. Usage Ellagic Acid:

Ellagic Acid is typically included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is often used in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, acne, and aging skin. When using products containing Ellagic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kaur, M., Kaur, A., Sharma, R. J., & Singh, R. P. (2016). Bioavailability of ellagic acid. Journal of Pharmacy & Pharmacognosy Research, 4(4), 171-181.

- Afaq, F., & Mukhtar, H. (2006). Botanical antioxidants in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Experimental Dermatology, 15(9), 678-684.

- Choi, J. S., Chung, H. Y., Kang, S. S., & Jung, J. Y. (2014). Ellagic acid induced the apoptosis of HT-29 human colon cancer cells through the inhibition of intracellular fatty acid synthase activity. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 74, 32-38.

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Arnica Montana Flower Extract:

Arnica Montana Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Arnica Montana plant, which is native to Europe and Siberia. It is known for its anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Arnica Montana Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and promote healing. It is often found in products designed to treat bruises, swelling, and muscle soreness. Additionally, Arnica Montana Flower Extract is believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Arnica Montana Flower Extract:

When using products containing Arnica Montana Flower Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is generally recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to avoid contact with the eyes. Individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before using products with Arnica Montana Flower Extract to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Habtemariam, S. (2016). The Therapeutic Potential of Arnica Montana. Pharmacognosy Review, 10(19), 11-14.

- Barros, L., et al. (2017). Chemical Composition and Bioactivity of Arnica montana L. and Artemisia campestris L. Essential Oils. Industrial Crops and Products, 97, 600-610.

- Ramírez, J. M., et al. (2017). Arnica Montana Stimulates Extracellular Matrix Gene Expression in a Macrophage Cell Line Differentiated to Wound-Healing Phenotype. Phytotherapy Research, 31(5), 823-831.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Retinol

Other name: Vitamin A1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinol:

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

2. Use:

Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.

3. Usage Retinol:

When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

See more: Retinol

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Morus Alba Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Morus Alba Leaf Extract:

Morus Alba Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the white mulberry tree, scientifically known as Morus alba. It is known for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten and even out skin tone.

2. Use:

Morus Alba Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Additionally, it can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Morus Alba Leaf Extract:

Morus Alba Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations targeting skin brightening and anti-aging concerns. To use products containing Morus Alba Leaf Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with brightening ingredients to protect the skin from further damage.

4. References:

- Kim, Y. J., Uyama, H. (2005). Tyrosinase inhibitors from natural and synthetic sources: structure, inhibition mechanism and perspective for the future. Cellular and Molecular Life Sciences, 62(15), 1707-1723.

- Park, H. M., Moon, E., Kim, A. J., Kim, M. H., Lee, S., Lee, J. B., ... & Kim, S. Y. (2011). Extract of Punica granatum inhibits skin photoaging induced by UVB irradiation. International Journal of Dermatology, 50(10), 1246-1252.

- Song, J. E., Kim, M. S., Kim, H., Kim, H., An, S., & An, S. (2016). Anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects of active compounds isolated from Morus alba root bark. Pharmaceutical Biology, 54(8), 1479-1486.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract:

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, also known as bearberry extract, is derived from the leaves of the bearberry plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks due to its ability to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. It is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products with this extract, as it may increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Goyal AK, Middha SK, Sen A. Anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antipyretic effects of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi extract. Pharmacologyonline. 2011;2:1061-1068.

- Lin LT, Liu LT, Chiang LC, Lin CC. In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytother Res. 2002;16(5):440-444. doi:10.1002/ptr.927

- Thring TS, Hili P, Naughton DP. Antioxidant and potential anti-inflammatory activity of extracts and formulations of white tea, rose, and witch hazel on primary human dermal fibroblast cells. J Inflamm (Lond). 2011;8:27. doi:10.1186/1476-9255-8-27

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract

Function: Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the bergamot orange tree. It is known for its refreshing and uplifting citrus scent and is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Bergamot Leaf Extract is often used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums for its ability to help even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots, and promote a radiant complexion. It is also used in hair care products for its cleansing and purifying properties.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Bergamot Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to avoid using products with Bergamot Leaf Extract on sensitive or sun-exposed skin, as it may increase the risk of sun sensitivity and skin irritation.

4. References:

- Kim, J. et al. (2015). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Citrus bergamia Risso et Poiteau extract in a mouse model of carrageenan-induced paw edema. Pharmacognosy Magazine, 11(42), 427-433.

- Navarra, M. et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 6, 36.

- Russo, R. et al. (2013). Citrus bergamia essential oil: evidence for cytotoxicity in SH-SY5Y neuroblastoma cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 55, 356-363.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Oil

Function: Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil extracted from the leaves of the Bergamot orange tree. It is known for its refreshing and uplifting citrus scent.

2. Use:

Bergamot Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its antiseptic, antifungal, and antibacterial properties. It is often added to skincare products for its ability to cleanse and purify the skin, as well as its potential to reduce acne and other skin conditions.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Oil:

When using Bergamot Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can cause skin irritation and sensitivity when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the skin and to avoid using it on sensitive areas such as the eyes and mucous membranes. It is also photosensitive, so it is advised to avoid sun exposure after applying it to the skin.

4. References:

- Paula, J., & Toma, W. (2014). Antimicrobial activity of bergamot (Citrus bergamia Risso) essential oil and its components. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 26(2), 108-117.

- Navarra, M., & Mannucci, C. (2015). Bergamot essential oil: from basic research to clinical application. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 6, 36.

- Bagetta, G., et al. (2010). Safety and efficacy of bergamot essential oil aromatherapy in hypertensive and dyslipidemic subjects: a double-blind randomized controlled trial. Phytomedicine, 17(4), 356-363.

Glycolic Acid

Other name: Hydroxyacetic acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.

3. Usage Glycolic Acid:

When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.

See more: Unlocking the Power of Glycolic Acid in Skincare!!!

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Soy Protein:

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a water-soluble protein derived from soybeans that has been broken down into smaller peptides through a process called hydrolysis. This process makes the protein more easily absorbed by the skin and hair, allowing it to provide various benefits in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products for its moisturizing, conditioning, and strengthening properties. It is often included in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair. In skincare products, it can help to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Soy Protein:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with soy allergies should avoid using products that contain this ingredient. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Bae, J. Y., Lim, S. S., Kim, S. J., Choi, J. S., & Lee, Y. H. (2013). Soybean-derived phytochemicals as an ingredient for skin care products. BioMed Research International, 2013.

- Kim, J. H., Baek, J. H., Lee, S. H., & Lee, Y. H. (2016). Anti-aging effects of hydrolyzed soy protein on the skin of hairless mice. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 136(3), S95.

- Lee, J. H., Lee, Y. H., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Effects of hydrolyzed soy protein on hair growth in human subjects. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 161-166.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a natural oil derived from soybeans through a process of extraction. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, cleansers, hair masks, and conditioners. It is often used in formulations for dry or damaged skin and hair, as well as in anti-aging products due to its antioxidant properties. It is typically applied topically to the skin or hair, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or haircare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. W., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Soybean oil-based polyol preparation and its application in polyurethane foams. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 64, 25-32.

- Reiter, M., Walfisz, A., & Wertz, J. (2016). Antioxidant potential of soybean oil enriched with phospholipids. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 265-273.

- De Oliveira, D. M., Silva, R. C., & De Oliveira, L. E. (2015). Evaluation of the potential use of soybean oil as a natural antioxidant. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(5), 2808-2816.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Saccharide Isomerate

Other name: Pentavin; Pentavitine

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Saccharide Isomerate:

Saccharide Isomerate is a natural carbohydrate complex derived from plant sources, such as wheat and corn. It is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Saccharide Isomerate is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, which helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin. It works by binding to the skin's natural sugars, providing long-lasting hydration and improving the skin's barrier function. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to improve skin hydration.

3. Usage Saccharide Isomerate:

When using skincare products containing Saccharide Isomerate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, products containing this ingredient can be applied to clean, dry skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening. However, as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kaur, I. P., & Rana, C. (2008). Saccharide isomerate: A natural but hygroscopic biomolecule. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30(2), 113-118.

- Lupo, M. P. (2010). Understanding, preventing, and treating dry skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 63(2), 124-140.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Moisturizers: An overview. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 18(7), 633-637.

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

Function:

Definition Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the white willow tree (Salix alba). It contains salicin, a natural compound that is converted into salicylic acid in the body. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Salix Alba Bark Extract is utilized in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to gently exfoliate the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health.

Use and Usage Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Alba Bark Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and exfoliants. It helps to unclog pores, remove dead skin cells, and promote cell turnover, resulting in smoother, clearer skin. Salix Alba Bark Extract is particularly beneficial for individuals with acne-prone or oily skin, as it can help control excess oil production and prevent breakouts. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin conditions.

Precautions When Using:

While Salix Alba Bark Extract is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, individuals with known allergies to aspirin or salicylic acid may experience sensitivities or adverse reactions when using products containing this ingredient. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with Salix Alba Bark Extract extensively, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergic reactions to skincare ingredients. Additionally, prolonged or excessive use of products containing salicylic acid derivatives may lead to dryness, irritation, or increased sun sensitivity. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions and incorporate sunscreen into your skincare routine when using products containing Salix Alba Bark Extract to protect the skin from potential sun damage.

References:

Garg, S., & Mehta, A. (2016). Evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of Salix alba Linn. (White Willow Bark). International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research, 8(7), 1143-1147.
Jung, H. A., Kim, J. E., & Chung, H. Y. (2008). Chin YW. ACE inhibitors from Salix glandulosa.* Arch Pharm Res, 31(12), 1517-1522.
Gfeller, H., & Böni, R. (1995). Acne vulgaris: current concepts in the pathogenesis and treatment. Dermatology, 191(1), 1-7.

Tetrapeptide 21

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Tetrapeptide 21:

Tetrapeptide 21 is a synthetic peptide consisting of four amino acids linked together. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties and ability to promote collagen production.

2. Use:

Tetrapeptide 21 is known for its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and enhance overall skin texture. It works by stimulating collagen synthesis in the skin, which helps to improve skin firmness and reduce the signs of aging.

3. Usage Tetrapeptide 21:

Tetrapeptide 21 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing Tetrapeptide 21 consistently for best results. Apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day.

Precautions: While Tetrapeptide 21 is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product, especially if you have sensitive skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult with a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Kim, H. J., Kim, J. H., & Lee, H. K. (2019). The Effect of Tetrapeptide-21 on Skin Aging: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(2), 423-428. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12709

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., & Won, C. H. (2013). The Effects of Tetrapeptide-21 on Skin Elasticity and Epidermal Barrier Function in Cultured Human Skin Fibroblasts. Journal of Dermatological Science, 72(2), 156-163. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2013.06.017

- Lee, J. H., Kim, H. J., & Lee, S. W. (2017). Tetrapeptide-21 Induces Collagen Synthesis and Promotes Wound Healing in Human Dermal Fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 187-194.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Glyceryl Behenate

Other name: Monobehenin; 2,3-Dihydroxypropyl docosanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Behenate:

Glyceryl Behenate is a waxy substance derived from glycerin and behenic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Behenate is used in skincare and cosmetic products to provide hydration and moisture to the skin. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as creams, lotions, and lipsticks. Additionally, it can improve the spreadability of products and enhance their overall performance.

3. Usage Glyceryl Behenate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Behenate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Behenate" Cosmeticsinfo.org. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-behenate

- "Glyceryl Behenate" The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/glyceryl-behenate/

- "Glyceryl Behenate" Truth in Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-behenate

Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer:

Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer is a copolymer derived from a combination of acrylates and carbamates. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity increasing agent.

2. Use:

Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as providing a protective barrier on the skin. This copolymer is often found in products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes or mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

- "Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer" Personal Care Council, https://www.personalcarecouncil.org.

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Carbamate Copolymer-Based Hydrogels for Topical Delivery of Nifedipine" Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology, 2019.

Tetrahydropiperine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Tetrahydropiperine:

Tetrahydropiperine is a derivative of piperine, a compound found in black pepper, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Tetrahydropiperine is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Tetrahydropiperine is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help improve skin tone and texture. It is known for its ability to enhance the absorption of other active ingredients, making it a popular choice in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, and fine lines.

3. Usage Tetrahydropiperine:

When using cosmetics containing Tetrahydropiperine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation. Tetrahydropiperine should be used as directed and not exceed the recommended dosage to avoid any adverse effects on the skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, Y., Kim, J., & Kim, J. (2017). Tetrahydropiperine, an alkaloid of Piper longum L., inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells via UCP-1 upregulation. Journal of Functional Foods, 29, 256-265.

- Chai, T. T., Law, Y. C., Wong, F. C., & Kim, Y. C. (2010). Tetrahydropiperine and piperine cocrystals with improved aqueous solubility. Crystal Growth & Design, 10(7), 3133-3139.

- Jeong, J. B., & Kim, Y. C. (2011). Synergistic anti-inflammatory effect of tetrahydropiperine and trans‐piperine on lipopolysaccharide‐induced inflammatory response in RAW264.7 cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 49(4), 1016-1022.

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone)

Function: Uv Absorber, Uv Filter

1. Definition Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone):

Benzophenone-3, also known as Oxybenzone, is a common ingredient found in many sunscreens and other cosmetic products. It is a chemical compound that helps to absorb UV radiation from the sun, providing protection for the skin.

2. Use:

Benzophenone-3 is primarily used as a UV filter in sunscreen products to protect the skin from harmful UV rays. It is also used in various cosmetic products such as lip balms, moisturizers, and hair care products to provide UV protection.

3. Usage Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone):

When using products containing Benzophenone-3, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Apply sunscreen with Benzophenone-3 generously to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is recommended to avoid prolonged exposure to the sun, especially during peak hours, and to wear protective clothing in addition to using sunscreen.

4. References:

- Tovar-Sánchez, A., Sánchez-Quiles, D., Basterretxea, G., Benedé, J. L., Chisvert, A., Salvador, A., & Moreno-Garrido, I. (2013). Sunscreen products as emerging pollutants to coastal waters. PloS one, 8(6), e65451.

- Schlumpf, M., Cotton, B., Conscience, M., Haller, V., Steinmann, B., Lichtensteiger, W., & In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens. Environmental Health Perspectives, 109(3), 239-244.

- Matta, M. K., Florian, J., Zusterzeel, R., Pilli, N. R., Patel, V., Volpe, D. A., ... & Nohynek, G. J. (2019). Effect of sunscreen application on plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients: A randomized clinical trial. JAMA, 321(21), 2082-2091.

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Other name: Glyceryl monostearate SE

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Se:

Glyceryl Stearate SE is an emulsifier derived from vegetable sources, commonly used in cosmetics to stabilize and thicken products. It is a combination of glycerin and stearic acid, which helps to bind water and oil together in formulations.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate SE is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve spreadability, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Se:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate SE, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or allergic reactions occur, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2012). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Hydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Succinate. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(4), 5S-35S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Glyceryl Stearate SE. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr150.pdf

- Lodeiro, C., & Reis, A. (2018). Emulsifiers in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed., pp. 381-397). CRC Press.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Bis Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Bis Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer:

Bis Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer is a silicone-based polymer commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a copolymer of dimethicone and bis-vinyl dimethicone, which helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Bis Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer is widely used in various cosmetic formulations such as skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products. It helps to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair, while also improving the spreadability and blendability of the products. Additionally, it helps to enhance the overall performance and longevity of the cosmetic products.

3. Usage Bis Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer:

When using products containing Bis Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to silicone-based ingredients. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel Meeting: Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer and Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Diethylaminohydroxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2018.

- "Silicone Copolymer: Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer" The Derm Review, 2021.

- "Safety Assessment of Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer and Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Diethylaminohydroxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2019.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3

Other name: Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3

Function: Skin Conditioning, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3:

Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3 is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening and emulsifying agent. It is a crosslinked polymer of dimethicone, which is a type of silicone oil.

2. Use:

Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3 is primarily used in cosmetics as a texturizing agent to improve the feel and spreadability of products. It helps to create a smooth and silky texture in formulations such as creams, lotions, and makeup products. It also helps to provide a matte finish and reduce the greasy feel of products on the skin.

3. Usage Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3:

Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, some precautions should be taken. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to silicone-based ingredients should perform a patch test before using products containing Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3 to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- "Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dimethicone-crosspolymer.

- "Dimethicone Crosspolymer." The Dermatology Review, www.thedermreview.com/dimethicone-crosspolymer/.

- "Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dimethicone-crosspolymer.

Cyclodextrin

Function: Chelating Agent, Absorbent

1. Definition Cyclodextrin:

Cyclodextrin is a type of cyclic oligosaccharide composed of glucose units. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a complexing agent to improve the stability, solubility, and bioavailability of various active ingredients.

2. Use:

Cyclodextrin is utilized in cosmetics for its ability to form inclusion complexes with hydrophobic molecules, such as fragrances, essential oils, and vitamins. By encapsulating these ingredients within the cavity of the cyclodextrin molecule, their volatility and reactivity can be reduced, leading to improved performance and longevity in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Cyclodextrin:

When using cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to consider the compatibility of the complexing agent with other ingredients in the formulation. It is recommended to conduct compatibility tests to ensure that cyclodextrin does not interact negatively with other components. Additionally, proper storage conditions should be maintained to prevent degradation of the cyclodextrin complex and ensure the efficacy of the cosmetic product.

4. References:

- Loftsson, T., & Brewster, M. E. (1996). Pharmaceutical applications of cyclodextrins. 1. Drug solubilization and stabilization. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 85(10), 1017-1025.

- Trotta, F., & Debernardi, F. (2017). Cyclodextrin-based nanosponges as drug carriers. Beilstein Journal of Organic Chemistry, 13, 1116-1131.

- Jansook, P., Ogawa, N., & Loftsson, T. (2018). Cyclodextrins: structure, physicochemical properties and pharmaceutical applications. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 535(1-2), 272-284.

Sodium Citrate

Other name: Sodium Acid Citrate

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating

1. Definition Sodium Citrate:

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits. It is commonly used as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, emulsifier, and preservative in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Sodium Citrate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas, adjust the pH level of products, and enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage Sodium Citrate:

When using products containing Sodium Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-issues-cosmetic-products/sodium-citrate-in-cosmetics/.

Tetrasodium Edta

Other name: EDTA-4Na; Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Tetrasodium Edta:

Tetrasodium EDTA, also known as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that helps to improve the stability and efficacy of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.

2. Use:

Tetrasodium EDTA is used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer to prevent rancidity and discoloration. It also helps to enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in the formulation. Additionally, it can improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain products like shampoos and body washes.

3. Usage Tetrasodium Edta:

Tetrasodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used within the recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the guidelines provided by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to ensure safe usage. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Tetrasodium EDTA on broken or irritated skin to prevent potential irritation.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(Suppl 1), 93-128.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Tetrasodium EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/tetrasodium-edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1751

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Polysorbate 80

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan Monooleate; Polysorbate 80; Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate

Function: Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 80:

Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic compound that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 80 is used in cosmetics to help ingredients mix together that would otherwise separate, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize and improve the texture of products like creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can act as a dispersing agent, helping to evenly distribute pigments in makeup products.

3. Usage Polysorbate 80:

When using cosmetics containing Polysorbate 80, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or reactions when using products with this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Lodeiro, P., Barros, M. A., & Schapoval, E. E. (2013). Evaluation of the in vitro cytotoxicity and in vivo anti-inflammatory effects of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug formulated in polysorbate 80-containing nanoemulsions. Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences, 16(4), 549-563.

- Gao, Z., & Li, Y. (2013). Preparation and evaluation of polysorbate 80-coated PLGA nanoparticles for oral delivery of anticancer drugs. Drug development and industrial pharmacy, 39(3), 499-506.

- Murali, S., & Bharath, S. (2014). Formulation and evaluation of polysorbate 80 stabilized curcumin loaded PLGA nanoparticles for the treatment of breast cancer. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(10), 4434-4444.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Annatto

Function:

1. Definition Annatto:

Annatto is a natural colorant derived from the seeds of the Achiote tree (Bixa orellana). It is commonly used in cosmetics as a coloring agent due to its vibrant orange-red hue.

2. Use:

Annatto is primarily used in cosmetics to add color to various products such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and even hair dyes. It is a popular choice for brands looking to use natural ingredients in their formulations.

3. Usage Annatto:

When using annatto in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products containing annatto to the skin, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the desired color payoff without causing any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Ribeiro, L. N., Salvadori, M. C., & Malfitano de Carvalho, S. (2015). Genotoxicity and mutagenicity of annatto in mammalian cells in vivo. Genetics and Molecular Biology, 38(2), 210-216.

- Costa, R., & Marques, J. M. (2018). Annatto (Bixa orellana L.) Seeds as a Source of Natural Food Colorants. In Natural and Artificial Food Colorants (pp. 53-64). Elsevier.

- Nogueira, C. R., & Lopes, G. K. (2018). Annatto (Bixa orellana L.) Seeds: A Source of Natural Colorants. In Handbook on Natural Pigments in Food and Beverages (pp. 145-155). Woodhead Publishing.