Ingredients list Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
3	A	Cyclopentasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Silicone
1	B	Isononyl Isononanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent)
1	B	Isododecane (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient)
1	B	Isopropyl Myristate (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Binding Agent, Binding)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Isopropyl Palmitate (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1	A	Ceramide 1 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Crithmum Maritimum Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1	A	Dimethiconol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent, Moisturising)	Silicone
1		Dimethyl Isosorbide (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
		Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Strobile
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract (Fragrance, Tonic)
1		Neoruscogenin (Skin Conditioning)
1		Palmitoyl Hexapeptide 14 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1		Polysilicone 11 (Film Forming)
9		Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Ruscogenin (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Squalene (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging

Cyclopentasiloxane

Other name: Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopenasiloxane; BRB CM 50

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclopentasiloxane:

Cyclopentasiloxane is a type of silicone commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products.

2. Use:

Cyclopentasiloxane is often used in skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, primers, and hair conditioners. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin and hair, making it easier to apply and blend other ingredients.

3. Usage Cyclopentasiloxane:

When using products containing Cyclopentasiloxane, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product with Cyclopentasiloxane, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.

- Lefebvre, M. A., Pham, D. M., Boussouira, B., & Bernard, D. (2015). Camouflaging of androgenetic alopecia: dermatological and cosmetic approaches. Skin Research and Technology, 21(4), 219-227.

- Mavon, A., Miquel, C., Lejeune, O., Payre, B., & Moret, N. (2015). In vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo stratum corneum distribution of an organic and a mineral sunscreen. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(5), 266-275.

Isononyl Isononanoate

Other name: SALACOS 99; Dermol 99; TEGOSOFT INI; WAGLINOL 1449

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Isononyl Isononanoate:

Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic ester derived from isononanol and nonanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isononyl Isononanoate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances their overall texture.

3. Usage Isononyl Isononanoate:

When using products containing Isononyl Isononanoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Isononyl Isononanoate" in CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Safety Assessment of Isononyl Isononanoate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Isononyl Isononanoate: A Review of its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics" by ResearchGate

Isododecane

Other name: 2-Methylundecane

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient

1. Definition Isododecane:

Isododecane is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent and emollient. It is a hydrocarbon derived from petroleum and is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

Isododecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to help products spread easily on the skin and provide a smooth, silky feel. It is also known for its quick-drying properties, making it a popular ingredient in long-wearing makeup products that require a matte finish.

3. Usage Isododecane:

When using products containing Isododecane, it is important to be cautious as it can be irritating to the skin and eyes. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs. Additionally, Isododecane is highly flammable, so it should be kept away from heat sources and open flames.

4. References:

- Lodep, N., & Decker, C. (2017). Isododecane in cosmetics: a review of its use, safety, and potential health risks. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 153-162.

- Smith, A., & Johnson, B. (2018). The role of Isododecane in modern cosmetics formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 89-97.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of Isododecane in cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Isododecane.pdf

Isopropyl Myristate

Other name: IPM

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Isopropyl Myristate:

Isopropyl Myristate is a synthetic oil commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It is derived from isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil.

2. Use:

Isopropyl Myristate is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lotions, creams, and makeup products. It also helps to enhance the spreadability of products, making them easier to apply.

3. Usage Isopropyl Myristate:

Isopropyl Myristate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause irritation for some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to patch test products containing Isopropyl Myristate before using them on a larger area of skin. It is also recommended to avoid using products with Isopropyl Myristate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Isopropyl Myristate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-myristate.

- Sagar, Ashok, et al. "Isopropyl Myristate: A Review." International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences Review and Research, vol. 13, no. 2, 2012, pp. 93-97.

- "Isopropyl Myristate." The Dermatology Review, www.thedermreview.com/isopropyl-myristate/.

Isopropyl Palmitate

Other name: IPP

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It is derived from isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid, a fatty acid found in palm oil.

2. Use:

Isopropyl Palmitate is used in cosmetics for its ability to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often found in lotions, creams, and makeup products to improve texture and spreadability. Additionally, it can help to enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare formulations.

3. Usage Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it may cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to patch test products containing this ingredient before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products with Isopropyl Palmitate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-palmitate

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/isopropyl-palmitate.html

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/isopropyl-palmitate/

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Other name: Camellia Oil; Tsubaki Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is a botanical oil extracted from the seeds of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, protect against environmental damage, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including face creams, serums, hair oils, and body lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2012). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 144(2), 464-473.

- Hwang, E., et al. (2014). Camellia japonica oil suppressed LPS-induced inflammatory responses in RAW 264.7 macrophages and zebrafish. Journal of Functional Foods, 10, 225-235.

- Park, K., et al. (2017). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil on UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(3), 419-426.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Ceramide 1

Other name: Ceramide EOS

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 1:

Ceramide 1 is a type of lipid molecule that plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. It is naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin and helps to retain moisture, protect against environmental stressors, and support overall skin health.

2. Use:

Ceramide 1 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and strengthen the skin's barrier. It is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin, as it helps to restore hydration and protect against irritation. Ceramide 1 can also help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as enhance the skin's overall texture and tone.

3. Usage Ceramide 1:

Ceramide 1 can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to clean, dry skin, either as part of a daily skincare routine or as needed for specific skin concerns. When using products containing Ceramide 1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Ceramide 1, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SH, Kim YJ, et al. Ceramide 1 and ceramide 3 act synergistically on skin hydration and the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52(3):285-292. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2011.05222.x

- Bouwstra JA, Dubbelaar FE, Gooris GS, et al. The role of ceramide composition in the lipid organisation of the skin barrier. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1999;1419(2):127-136. doi:10.1016/s0005-2736(99)00014-9

- Park JY, Kim JY, Kim KR, et al. Ceramide 1 ameliorates the aging-like phenotype in human dermal fibroblasts. J Dermatol Sci. 2015;78(2):190-199. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2015.02.002

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic

1. Definition Crithmum Maritimum Extract:

Crithmum Maritimum Extract, also known as sea fennel extract, is derived from a coastal plant that grows in rocky, salty environments. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Crithmum Maritimum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Crithmum Maritimum Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Crithmum Maritimum Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, this extract is found in serums, creams, and masks, and can be applied to the skin after cleansing and toning. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this extract, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Dall'Acqua S, Cervellati R, Speroni E, Costa S, Guerra MC, Stella L. Complement system modulatory activity of Crithmum maritimum L. (Apiaceae) extract. Pharmacogn Mag. 2015;11(Suppl 1):S104-S110. doi:10.4103/0973-1296.157723

- Campanella L, Delfine S, Di Ferdinando M, et al. The role of Crithmum maritimum L. in the phytoremediation of salt-affected soils. Environ Sci Pollut Res Int. 2013;20(7):4979-4987. doi:10.1007/s11356-013-1603-2

- El Haci IM, El Midaoui A, El Kacimi K, et al. Antioxidant activity and protective effects of Crithmum maritimum L. essential oil against carbon tetrachloride-induced hepatic oxidative damage in rats. Biomed Pharmacother. 2018;106:776-783. doi:10.1016/j.biopha.2018.07.023

Dimethiconol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Dimethiconol:

Dimethiconol is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a derivative of dimethicone, which is a type of silicone oil.

2. Use:

Dimethiconol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the texture of products and enhance their spreadability. Dimethiconol is often found in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products, as well as in skincare products like moisturizers, serums, and primers.

3. Usage Dimethiconol:

Dimethiconol is typically safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for application. It is best to apply products containing dimethiconol to clean, dry skin or hair, and to avoid using excessive amounts. Some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or breakouts from products containing dimethiconol, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a new product.

4. References:

- Lodeiro, M. (2016). Silicone-based polymers for hair care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 361-374). CRC Press.

- Tadros, T. (2018). Emulsion formation and stability. In Formulation Science and Technology (pp. 225-242). CRC Press.

- Lintner, K. (2007). Silicones in personal care. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 465-478). CRC Press.

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Other name: Arlasolve DMI

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Isosorbide:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is a high purity solvent and carrier that is derived from natural corn sugar. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is often used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and penetration enhancer. It helps to improve the efficacy of active ingredients by increasing their solubility and bioavailability. This ingredient is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and other skincare products where deep penetration into the skin is desired.

3. Usage Dimethyl Isosorbide:

When using products containing Dimethyl Isosorbide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to Dimethyl Isosorbide, so it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Dragicevic N, Maibach HI. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Modification of the Stratum Corneum. CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2016.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-6; discussion 836.

- Muizzuddin N, Hellemans L, Van Overloop L, Corstjens H, Declercq L, Maes D. Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2010;59(2):123-8.

Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Strobile

Function:

1. Definition Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Strobile:

Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Strobile is the dried, flowering cone of the hop plant, commonly used in brewing beer. It contains various compounds such as essential oils, resins, and bitter acids that have potential benefits for skin and hair.

2. Use:

Hops Strobile extract is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics. It can help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. In hair care products, it is believed to help strengthen hair follicles, promote hair growth, and improve scalp health.

3. Usage Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Strobile:

Hops Strobile extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as serums, creams, lotions, shampoos, and conditioners. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Kavalali G, Tuncel G, Goksel S, Hatipoglu F, Ozbek H. Evaluation of the wound healing potential of Humulus lupulus extracts on Staphylococcus aureus-infected wounds in rats. J Wound Care. 2017;26(1):32-42.

- Yoon JY, Al-Reza SM, Kang SC. Hair growth promoting effect of Zizyphus jujuba essential oil. Food Chem Toxicol. 2010;48(5):1350-1354.

- Hops (Humulus lupulus). In: Blumenthal M, Goldberg A, Brinckmann J, eds. Herbal Medicine: Expanded Commission E Monographs. Newton, MA: Integrative Medicine Communications; 2000: 183-192.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract

Function: Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract:

Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract is derived from the Alfalfa plant, a member of the legume family. It is known for its high nutrient content, including vitamins A, C, E, and K, as well as minerals such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Alfalfa extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Alfalfa extract is often included in skincare products for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. Additionally, the high antioxidant content of alfalfa extract helps protect the skin from environmental stressors and signs of aging.

3. Usage Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract:

Alfalfa extract can be found in various skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied topically to the skin. It is important to patch test products containing alfalfa extract before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating alfalfa extract into your routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any known allergies.

4. References:

- Saeedi M, Morteza-Semnani K, Ghoreishi MR. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice, Medicago sativa, and Silybum marianum extracts. Iran J Dermatol. 2006;9(4):233-239.

- Fazeli MR, Bahmani M, Jamalifar H, Samadi N, Naghdi N, Karamali F. Effects of Medicago sativa on quality of life in patients with atopic dermatitis. J Clin Diagn Res. 2015;9(4):FC01-FC04.

- Dehghan E, Fazeli M, Noori M, Nourian A, Samadi N, Karamali F. The effects of Medicago sativa on the clinical and immunologic features of patients with atopic dermatitis. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod. 2016;11(2):e33939.

Neoruscogenin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Neoruscogenin:

Neoruscogenin is a natural compound derived from the roots of Ruscus aculeatus, also known as butcher's broom. It belongs to the group of steroidal saponins and is known for its anti-inflammatory and vasoconstrictive properties.

2. Use:

Neoruscogenin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. It is also known to improve the appearance of broken capillaries and varicose veins by strengthening blood vessel walls. Additionally, neoruscogenin has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Neoruscogenin:

Neoruscogenin is typically found in eye creams, serums, and treatments targeted towards reducing under-eye puffiness and dark circles. It is recommended to use products containing neoruscogenin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to perform a patch test before using any new cosmetic product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Mammone T, Akesson C, Gan D, Giampapa V, Marenus K. Neoruscogenin, a component of butcher's broom, promotes anti-aging effects in skin cells. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Oct;36(5):463-70. doi: 10.1111/ics.12147. Epub 2014 May 28. PMID: 24866051.

- Darvay A, Kádár A, Hohmann J, Csupor D. Phytochemical and pharmacological studies on Ruscus aculeatus L.: An update on the genus Ruscus. J Ethnopharmacol. 2020 May 23;254:112715. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2020.112715. Epub 2020 Feb 15. PMID: 32068124.

- Korting HC, Schöllmann C, Stauss-Grabo M, Schäfer-Korting M. Comparative efficacy of hamamelis distillate and hydrocortisone cream in atopic eczema. Eur J Clin Pharmacol. 1995;48(6):461-5. doi: 10.1007/BF00198442. PMID: 7589303.

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide 14

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Hexapeptide 14:

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is a synthetic peptide that belongs to the family of peptides known as signal peptides. It is composed of six amino acids and is designed to mimic the skin's natural processes to promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is known to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, this peptide can help improve skin firmness and overall texture, leading to a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Hexapeptide 14:

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide consistently for optimal results. To incorporate Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 into your skincare routine, apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day.

Precautions: While Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P. (2007). Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 25(4), 343-349.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Skin ageing and its treatment. The Journal of Pathology, 211(2), 241-251.

- Hexapeptide-14. (n.d.). In Cosmetics Info. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexapeptide-14

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Polysilicone 11

Function: Film Forming

1. Definition Polysilicone 11:

Polysilicone 11 is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and emollient. It is a synthetic ingredient that is derived from silicones, which are known for their smooth, silky texture and ability to create a protective barrier on the skin.

2. Use:

Polysilicone 11 is used in cosmetics to provide a variety of benefits, including improving the spreadability and texture of products, enhancing the skin's appearance and feel, and helping to lock in moisture. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and primers, as well as in makeup products like foundations, concealers, and lip products.

3. Usage Polysilicone 11:

When using products containing Polysilicone 11, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to avoid getting products containing Polysilicone 11 in the eyes or mouth, and to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Lefebvre MA, Pham DM, Bouwstra JA, Bodde HE, Spies F, Verhoef JC, Junginger HE. Relationship between skin permeability and corneocyte size according to anatomic site, age, and sex in man. J Invest Dermatol. 1991 Mar;96(3):459-63. doi: 10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470194. PMID: 1991269.

- Zillich OV, Schweiggert-Weisz U, Eisner P, Kerscher M. Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jun;37(3):455-64. doi: 10.1111/ics.12204. Epub 2015 Apr 24. PMID: 25899978.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin-care products. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005 May;52(5):854-65. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2004.06.030. PMID: 15858533.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)

Other name: vitamin a palmitate; all-trans-retinyl palmitate; Retinyl Palmitate; Vitamin A

Function:

1. Definition Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

Retinyl Palmitate, also known as Vitamin A palmitate, is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products. It is a combination of retinol (Vitamin A) and palmitic acid.

2. Use:

Retinyl Palmitate is widely used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is known to help improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun-damaged skin. Additionally, it can help promote cell turnover and collagen production, leading to smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

When using skincare products containing Retinyl Palmitate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Retinyl Palmitate to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is also essential to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Retinyl Palmitate, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

- Kang, S., Duell, E. A., Fisher, G. J., Datta, S. C., Wang, Z. Q., Reddy, A. P., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (1995). Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. Journal of investigative dermatology, 105(4), 549-556.

- Stamatas, G. N., & Morello, A. P. (2002). The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars. Dermatologic Surgery, 28(3), 220-226.

Ruscogenin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ruscogenin:

Ruscogenin is a natural compound derived from the roots of Ruscus aculeatus, also known as Butcher's Broom. It is a steroidal saponin with anti-inflammatory and vasoconstrictive properties.

2. Use:

Ruscogenin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce puffiness and dark circles around the eyes. It is also known for its skin-soothing properties and can help improve the appearance of skin texture.

3. Usage Ruscogenin:

Ruscogenin is typically found in eye creams, serums, and gels targeting under-eye bags and dark circles. It is recommended to use products containing ruscogenin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to perform a patch test before using any new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

Precautions: While ruscogenin is generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products containing ruscogenin into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Chen, L., Li, J., Zhang, J., Dai, C., Liu, X., & Wang, S. (2016). Ruscogenin ameliorates diabetic nephropathy by its anti-inflammatory and anti-fibrotic effects in streptozotocin-induced diabetic rat. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 16(1), 59.

- Kim, J., Kim, J., & Kim, C. S. (2018). Ruscogenin reduces cerebral ischemic injury via NF-κB-mediated inflammatory pathway in the mouse hippocampus. European Journal of Pharmacology, 819, 1-8.

- Yang, L., & Cai, X. (2019). Ruscogenin inhibits the inflammatory response in BV2 microglia under OGD/R conditions through the suppression of the TLR4 signaling pathway. Molecular Medicine Reports, 20(1), 739-746.

Squalene

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting

1. Definition Squalene:

Squalene is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in plants, animals, and humans. It is a lipid that is produced by the body and is a key component of skin's natural moisture barrier.

2. Use:

Squalene is widely used in the cosmetic industry for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate and protect the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple. Squalene is often used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and face oils.

3. Usage Squalene:

When using products containing squalene, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, squalene is sensitive to oxidation, so it is best to store products containing squalene in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Kim, S. K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 223-233.

- Sime, S., Reeve, V. E., & Protection, A. (2018). Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression and carcinogenesis induced by UV radiation in mice by topical Pycnogenol®. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences, 17(1), 54-61.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.