Full ingredients list Emma Lewisham Sunceutical™ SPF 50 ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
2 9		Zinc Oxide (Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent)	UV Protection Good for oily skin
1		Purified Water
		Coco-Octanoate/Decanoate
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
	B	Coco-Caprylate (Emollient)
		Medium-Chain Triglycerides
1		Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1	B	Isoamyl Laurate (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Isododecane (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient)
1		Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate (Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (Viscosity Controlling, Film Forming)
1	B	Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sorbitan Olivate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1		Polyhydroxystearic Acid (Emulsifying, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1		Saccharide Isomerate (Humectant)
1	A	Isostearic Acid (Binding Agent, Binding, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Disteardimonium Hectorite (Viscosity Controlling, Stabilising)
1		Hydroxyacetophenone (Antioxidant)
3	B	Propylene Glycol (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous)	Good for dry skin
1		Pongamol (Masking, Fragrance)
1	A	Propylene Carbonate (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1		Iron Oxide Yellow (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
		Iron Oxide Red
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Sodium Citrate (Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating)
		Iron Oxide Black
1		Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Skin Conditioning, Sufactant)

Zinc Oxide

Other name: microfine Zinc Oxide; CI 77947

Function: Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Zinc Oxide:

Zinc Oxide is a mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and protective properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often included in sunscreen, skincare products, and makeup formulations.

2. Use:

Zinc Oxide is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It acts as a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering the harmful rays to prevent sunburn and skin damage. In addition to its sun protection benefits, Zinc Oxide also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Zinc Oxide:

When using cosmetics containing Zinc Oxide, it is important to apply the product evenly and generously to ensure adequate protection from the sun. Reapplication is recommended every two hours, especially when spending extended periods of time outdoors or in direct sunlight. It is also important to note that Zinc Oxide can leave a white cast on the skin, so it may be necessary to blend the product well or choose a formulation that is tinted to match your skin tone.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (Cosmetic Science and Technology Series). CRC Press.

- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 66(3), 489-496.

- Nasir, A., Kalam, A., Singh, P., & Sharma, K. (2019). Zinc oxide nanoparticles: a review of their biological synthesis, antimicrobial activity, uptake, translocation and biotransformation in plants. Journal of Materials Science, 54(2), 1016-1042.

Purified Water

Function:

1. Definition Mineral Water:

Mineral water in cosmetics refers to water sourced from natural mineral springs that contains various minerals and trace elements beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Mineral water is commonly used in cosmetics as a hydrating and refreshing ingredient. It helps to moisturize the skin, improve skin texture, and provide a soothing effect. Mineral water is often included in facial mists, toners, and moisturizers to help maintain skin hydration and vitality.

3. Usage Mineral Water:

Mineral water can be used in various ways in skincare routines. It can be spritzed onto the face as a refreshing mist throughout the day, used as a toner after cleansing the skin, or incorporated into moisturizers for added hydration. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2012). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Coco-Octanoate/Decanoate

Function:

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Coco-Caprylate

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Coco-Caprylate:

Coco-Caprylate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a lightweight emollient and solvent.

2. Use:

Coco-Caprylate is used in cosmetics as a substitute for mineral oil and silicone-based ingredients. It helps to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Coco-Caprylate:

When using products containing Coco-Caprylate, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before using products with this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylate.

- "Coco-Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/coco-caprylate/.

- "Coco-Caprylate: A Natural Alternative to Silicones." Formulator Sample Shop, www.formulatorsampleshop.com/product/coco-caprylate.

Medium-Chain Triglycerides

Function:

Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Function: Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate:

Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a synthetic compound derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help mix oil and water-based ingredients.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and shampoos. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall performance of the product.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the body. If any irritation or adverse reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(5), 1-6.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2018). Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org.

- European Commission. (2020). CosIng - Cosmetics Ingredients and Substances. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_en.

Isoamyl Laurate

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate is a natural ester derived from isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isoamyl Laurate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a lightweight emollient that helps to soften and smooth the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the skin.

3. Usage Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations at concentrations typically ranging from 1-10%. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing Isoamyl Laurate to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate in Cosmetics" - Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/21423/isoamyl-laurate-in-cosmetics

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Isododecane

Other name: 2-Methylundecane

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient

1. Definition Isododecane:

Isododecane is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent and emollient. It is a hydrocarbon derived from petroleum and is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

Isododecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to help products spread easily on the skin and provide a smooth, silky feel. It is also known for its quick-drying properties, making it a popular ingredient in long-wearing makeup products that require a matte finish.

3. Usage Isododecane:

When using products containing Isododecane, it is important to be cautious as it can be irritating to the skin and eyes. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs. Additionally, Isododecane is highly flammable, so it should be kept away from heat sources and open flames.

4. References:

- Lodep, N., & Decker, C. (2017). Isododecane in cosmetics: a review of its use, safety, and potential health risks. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 153-162.

- Smith, A., & Johnson, B. (2018). The role of Isododecane in modern cosmetics formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 89-97.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of Isododecane in cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Isododecane.pdf

Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate

Function: Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate is a synthetic compound derived from glycerin and ricinoleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to create stable and uniform formulations. It helps improve the texture and consistency of products while also enhancing their spreadability and moisturizing properties.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also advisable to avoid direct contact with the eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate" - Cosmetics Info. (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate)

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate" - Truth in Aging. (https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate)

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate" - The Derm Review. (https://thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate/)

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Film Forming

1. Definition Glyceryl Polymethacrylate:

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is a synthetic polymer derived from glycerin and methacrylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity controlling agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, while also providing a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. This ingredient is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and foundations.

3. Usage Glyceryl Polymethacrylate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. Apply the product as directed, avoiding contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any sensitivity.

4. References:

- J. M. G. Cowley, J. M. Davis, and R. W. Horne. "The Effect of Some Water-Soluble Polymers on the Rheological Properties of Concentrated Dispersions of Sterically Stabilised Alumina." Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, vol. 47, no. 3, 1974, pp. 401-412.

- K. H. An, J. E. Jeong, and J. M. Lee. "Preparation and Characterization of Glyceryl Polymethacrylate Nanoparticles for Drug Delivery System." Journal of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology, vol. 17, no. 4, 2017, pp. 2670-2673.

- C. L. B. R. Rodrigues, A. C. S. Costa, and M. G. A. Fonseca. "Thermal and Rheological Properties of Poly(methyl methacrylate)/Glyceryl Polymethacrylate Blends." Polymer Bulletin, vol. 63, no. 4, 2009, pp. 547-556.

Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate:

Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate is a synthetic compound derived from glycerin and isostearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize emulsions and create a smooth texture in products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It also helps to improve the spreadability of products on the skin and enhance the overall sensory experience of the product.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 3 Diisostearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate" in CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate" in Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate" in Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate

Sorbitan Olivate

Other name: OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:

Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.

- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.

- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.

Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Magnesium(Ii), Sulfate, Heptahydrate:

Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate, also known as Epsom salt, is a mineral compound consisting of magnesium, sulfur, and oxygen. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and exfoliating properties.

2. Use:

Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate is used in cosmetics for a variety of purposes, including as a bath salt to soothe sore muscles and improve circulation, as an exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores, and as a skin conditioning agent to hydrate and soften the skin. It is also used in hair care products to add volume and texture to the hair.

3. Usage Magnesium(Ii), Sulfate, Heptahydrate:

When using magnesium sulfate heptahydrate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for each specific product. For bath salts, it is typically recommended to dissolve a certain amount in warm water before soaking in the bath. For exfoliants, it is important to gently massage the product onto damp skin in circular motions before rinsing off. It is also important to moisturize the skin after using products containing magnesium sulfate heptahydrate to prevent dryness.

4. References:

- "Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/magnesium-sulfate-heptahydrate.

- "Epsom Salt: Uses, Benefits, and Side Effects." Healthline, www.healthline.com/nutrition/epsom-salt-benefits-uses.

- "Magnesium Sulfate in Cosmetics." ScienceDirect, www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/magnesium-sulfate.

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Function: Emulsifying, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It is derived from stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats.

2. Use:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a stabilizer to prevent the separation of ingredients in formulations. Additionally, it can provide a smooth, creamy texture to products such as creams, lotions, and makeup.

3. Usage Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any other cosmetic ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. However, it is always advisable to conduct a patch test before using products containing Polyhydroxystearic Acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyhydroxystearic-acid)

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine (https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/10410/polyhydroxystearic-acid-in-cosmetics)

- "Safety Assessment of Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyhydroxystearic%20acid.pdf)

Saccharide Isomerate

Other name: Pentavin; Pentavitine

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Saccharide Isomerate:

Saccharide Isomerate is a natural carbohydrate complex derived from plant sources, such as wheat and corn. It is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Saccharide Isomerate is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, which helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin. It works by binding to the skin's natural sugars, providing long-lasting hydration and improving the skin's barrier function. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to improve skin hydration.

3. Usage Saccharide Isomerate:

When using skincare products containing Saccharide Isomerate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, products containing this ingredient can be applied to clean, dry skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening. However, as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kaur, I. P., & Rana, C. (2008). Saccharide isomerate: A natural but hygroscopic biomolecule. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30(2), 113-118.

- Lupo, M. P. (2010). Understanding, preventing, and treating dry skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 63(2), 124-140.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Moisturizers: An overview. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 18(7), 633-637.

Isostearic Acid

Other name: Isooctadecanoic acid; 16-Methylheptadecanoic acid

Function: Binding Agent, Binding, Emulsifying

1. Definition Isostearic Acid:

Isostearic acid is a type of fatty acid derived from the hydrogenation of oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier due to its ability to improve the texture and consistency of products.

2. Use:

Isostearic acid is often used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide hydration and create a smooth, silky feel on the skin. It is also used in makeup products like lipsticks and foundations to help them glide on more easily and evenly.

3. Usage Isostearic Acid:

When using products containing isostearic acid, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with isostearic acid into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Isostearic Acid" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isostearic-acid)

- "Isostearic Acid" by Truth in Aging (https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isostearic-acid)

- "Isostearic Acid in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine (https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/31115/isostearic-acid-in-cosmetics)

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Stabilising

1. Definition Disteardimonium Hectorite:

Disteardimonium Hectorite is a synthetic clay mineral derived from hectorite clay. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, suspending agent, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Disteardimonium Hectorite is primarily used in cosmetics to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as foundations, concealers, and creams. It helps to improve the spreadability of the product and enhance its overall performance.

3. Usage Disteardimonium Hectorite:

When using products containing Disteardimonium Hectorite, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. It is also recommended to avoid inhaling the powder form of Disteardimonium Hectorite to prevent irritation to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Disteardimonium Hectorite as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Evaluation of the Skin Irritation Potential of Disteardimonium Hectorite" by the Journal of Cosmetic Science

- "Formulation and Characterization of Disteardimonium Hectorite-Based Cosmetic Products" by the International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Hydroxyacetophenone

Other name: SymSave H

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:

Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.

3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:

When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.

- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.

- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.

Propylene Glycol

Other name: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

Pongamol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Pongamol:

Pongamol is a natural compound found in the seeds of the Indian Pongamia tree. It is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Pongamol is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote a more even skin tone. It is often found in products such as serums, creams, and masks targeting issues like acne, hyperpigmentation, and aging.

3. Usage Pongamol:

When using skincare products containing Pongamol, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Pongamol can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, but it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results. It is also advisable to use sunscreen when using products with Pongamol, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Choi, J., Kim, J., Kim, S., Kim, J., Kim, M., . . . Kim, C. (2019). Pongamol from Pongamia pinnata enhances melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells through the MAPK signaling pathway. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 20(17), 4145. doi:10.3390/ijms20174145

- Kunchandy, E., & Rao, M. N. (1990). Oxygen radical scavenging activity of curcumin. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 58(3), 237-240. doi:10.1016/0378-5173(90)90115-e

- Dhanabal, S., Kokate, C., Ramanathan, M., Kumar, E. P., & Suresh, B. (2006). Anti-inflammatory and anti-nociceptive activities of pongamol, a chromene isolated from Pongamia pinnata seed kernels. Inflammopharmacology, 14(1-2), 32-35. doi:10.1007/s10787-006-1511-8

Propylene Carbonate

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propylene Carbonate:

Propylene Carbonate is a synthetic solvent commonly used in cosmetics. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild odor, and is typically derived from propylene oxide.

2. Use:

Propylene Carbonate is used in cosmetics as a solvent and carrier agent for various ingredients. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance the absorption of other active ingredients. It is commonly found in skincare products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in makeup products like foundations, lipsticks, and eyeshadows.

3. Usage Propylene Carbonate:

When using products containing Propylene Carbonate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Carbonate, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, avoid getting the product in your eyes or mouth, and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Propylene Carbonate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/propylene-carbonate.

- "Propylene Carbonate." The Dermatology Review, www.thedermreview.com/propylene-carbonate/.

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Carbonate as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PCarbonate1114SLR.pdf.

Iron Oxide Yellow

Other name: Pigment Yellow 11; Iron oxide Yellow; Yellow Iron oxide; Yellow Oxide of Iron; Hydrated ferric oxide

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 77492:

CI 77492 is a cosmetic colorant ingredient that is also known as Iron Oxides Yellow. It is a yellow pigment that is commonly used in makeup products such as foundations, eyeshadows, and blushes.

2. Use:

CI 77492 is used in cosmetics to provide a yellow color to the product. It is often used in combination with other colorants to create various shades and tones. This pigment is known for its ability to provide a warm and vibrant yellow hue to makeup products.

3. Usage CI 77492:

When using products containing CI 77492, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes and mucous membranes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Iron Oxides as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics" by U.S. Food and Drug Administration

Iron Oxide Red

Function:

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Other name: Sodium Acid Citrate

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating

1. Definition Sodium Citrate:

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits. It is commonly used as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, emulsifier, and preservative in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Sodium Citrate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas, adjust the pH level of products, and enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage Sodium Citrate:

When using products containing Sodium Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-issues-cosmetic-products/sodium-citrate-in-cosmetics/.

Iron Oxide Black

Function:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Sufactant

1. Definition Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a synthetic peptide consisting of a fatty acid (palmitic acid) attached to an oligopeptide chain. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, helping to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and tone of the skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Oligopeptide:

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide should be used as directed by the manufacturer, typically applied to clean, dry skin once or twice daily. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to avoid using it in combination with other active ingredients that may cause irritation or sensitivity. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Kim JH, Park SG, Kim JH. Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 effects on the proteolytic activities of MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9 in UV-irradiated human fibroblasts. J Biochem Mol Biol. 2007;40(6):1062-1067.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-836; discussion 836.

- Schagen SK. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16.