Full ingredients list Femmue Ideal Intense

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Camellia Japonica Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Sorbitan Caprylate (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1 2	A	Bisabolol	Promotes Wound Healing Brightening
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Phosphatidylcholine (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Phytosteryl Macadamiate (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Trehalose (Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (Antioxidant)
1 3	B	Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for sensitive skin
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1	B	Carnitine (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting)
1	A	Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
1		Dimethyl Sulfone (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1		Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract (Humectant, Astringent, Soothing)
		Hizikia Fusiforme Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Pueraria Lobata Root Extract (Humectant)
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent)
		Angelica Gigas Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant)
		Equisetum Hyemale Extract
1		Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Punica Granatum Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Soy Isoflavones (Skin Conditioning)
1		Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract
1	A	Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Yeast Beta Glucan (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Skin Protecting, Film Forming)
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Bioflavonoids (Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
1		Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning, Fragrance)	Good for sensitive skin Good for dry skin
1		Houttuynia Cordata Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Portulaca Oleracea Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Levulinic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance)
	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide
1	B	Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract (Masking)
1	A	Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract (Flavoring Agent, Antioxidant)
1	A	Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate (Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Soothing)
1		Hydrolyzed Pea Protein (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
		Pisum Sativum (Pea) Seed Extract*
1		Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Exclusive)
1		Silybum Marianum Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract
1	A	Copper Tripeptide 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract (Cosmetic Astringent)
1	A	Panax Ginseng Root Extract (Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic)
1		Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Bulking Agent, Moisturising)	Anti Aging Good for dry skin
1		Carnosine (Skin Conditioning)
1		Hydroxyproline (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Surfactant)
		Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming)
4		Pelargonium Graveolens Oil (Masking, Perfuming)
1		Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Extract
1		Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil (Masking, Fragrance)

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Camellia Japonica Flower Extract:

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This extract also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Camellia Japonica Flower Extract:

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Camellia Japonica Flower Extract as part of your daily skincare routine to experience its full benefits.

4. References:

- Park, K. H., & Kim, D. S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effect of Camellia japonica oil. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 45(2), 105-111.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, H. L., & Lee, M. S. (2017). Effects of Camellia japonica oil on skin barrier function. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 23(1), 31-37.

- Park, S. Y., Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. S. (2015). Anti-aging effects of Camellia japonica extract. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 21(2), 245-251.

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Other name: Camellia Oil; Tsubaki Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is a botanical oil extracted from the seeds of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, protect against environmental damage, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including face creams, serums, hair oils, and body lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2012). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 144(2), 464-473.

- Hwang, E., et al. (2014). Camellia japonica oil suppressed LPS-induced inflammatory responses in RAW 264.7 macrophages and zebrafish. Journal of Functional Foods, 10, 225-235.

- Park, K., et al. (2017). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil on UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(3), 419-426.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Sorbitan Caprylate

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Sorbitan Caprylate:

Sorbitan Caprylate is a natural emulsifier derived from sorbitol and caprylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a stabilizer and preservative.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Caprylate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help maintain the stability of the formulation. It also acts as a preservative, extending the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Sorbitan Caprylate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Sorbitan Caprylate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-caprylate

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Sorbitan Caprylate. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sorbitan-caprylate/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.845

Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil:

Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil is a type of vegetable oil derived from the kernel of the palm fruit. It is processed through hydrogenation, which involves the addition of hydrogen atoms to the oil to increase its stability and shelf life.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It helps to soften and moisturize the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lotions, creams, and lip balms. It also helps to improve the texture of cosmetic products, giving them a smooth and creamy consistency.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to palm-derived ingredients. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of products containing Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Acid, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Acid, and Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides." International Journal of Toxicology 24.S2 (2005): 1-10.

- "Palm Oil and Its Derivatives." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/palm-oil-and-its-derivatives.

- "Palm Oil Derivatives in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Guide." The Eco Hub, www.theecohub.ca/palm-oil-derivatives-in-cosmetics/.

Bisabolol

Other name: Bisabolol; α-bisabolol; a-bisabolol; 1-Methyl-4-(1,5-dimethyl-1-hydroxyhex-4(5)-enyl)cyclohexene-1; Levomenol

Function:

1. Definition Bisabolol:

Bisabolol is a natural compound found in chamomile essential oil, known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Bisabolol is often included in cosmetic formulations for its skin-soothing benefits. It helps to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, bisabolol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Bisabolol:

Bisabolol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-1% in formulations. When using products containing bisabolol, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for all skin types, but if irritation occurs, discontinue use.

4. References:

- Sharifi-Rad, J., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: A monoterpenoid with therapeutic potential. BioMed Research International, 2018.

- Costa, R., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound for potential treatment of age-related macular degeneration. European Journal of Pharmacology, 839, 134-141.

- Zeng, W., et al. (2020). Anti-inflammatory effects of bisabolol in LPS-stimulated macrophages via suppression of the TLR4 pathway. Molecular Medicine Reports, 21(2), 957-964.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Phosphatidylcholine

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Phosphatidylcholine:

Phosphatidylcholine is a type of phospholipid that is commonly found in cell membranes. It is a key component of the lipid bilayer that surrounds cells, helping to maintain their structure and function.

2. Use:

Phosphatidylcholine is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help hydrate and soften the skin. Additionally, phosphatidylcholine can also help to improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making it a popular choice for formulators.

3. Usage Phosphatidylcholine:

When using cosmetics containing phosphatidylcholine, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for most people to use topically, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., & Kim, J. (2015). Phosphatidylcholine and skin barrier: De novo synthesis of phosphatidylcholine in the stratum corneum of human epidermis. Journal of Lipid Research, 56(11), 2248-2259.

- Rawlings, A. V., & Lombard, K. J. (2012). A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(6), 511-518.

- Bissett, D. L., Chatterjee, R., Hannon, D. P., & Wickett, R. R. (2005). Microscopic evaluation of phospholipid-based skin moisturizers. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 987-994.

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosteryl Macadamiate:

Phytosteryl Macadamiate is a plant-derived ester of macadamia nut oil and phytosterols, commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient and skin-conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Phytosteryl Macadamiate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to provide hydration and nourishment to the skin. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, leaving it soft, smooth, and moisturized.

3. Usage Phytosteryl Macadamiate:

Phytosteryl Macadamiate can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. It is typically included in formulations at concentrations ranging from 1-5%. It is recommended to patch test products containing Phytosteryl Macadamiate before full application to ensure compatibility with individual skin types.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934-2937.

- Sato, Y., Akutsu, H., & Suzuki, Y. (2006). Evaluation of the moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing phytosterol. Journal of Oleo Science, 55(8), 383-389.

- Mota, J. P., & Rodriguez, M. L. (2019). Phytosterols as natural antioxidants in cosmetic formulations. Current Pharmaceutical Design, 25(9), 1016-1023.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter:

Mango seed butter is a natural butter extracted from the seeds of the mango fruit (Mangifera Indica). It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins A and E, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Mango seed butter is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, mango seed butter can help to condition and strengthen the hair, reduce frizz, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter:

Mango seed butter can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including lotions, creams, balms, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. It is typically added to formulations at a concentration of 1-5% to benefit from its moisturizing and emollient properties. When using mango seed butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility and to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Akhtar, N., & Khan, B. A. (2017). Formulation and evaluation of mango butter-based cosmetic emulsions. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(2), 93-102.

- Jamil, W., & Al-Asmari, A. K. (2019). Mango seed kernel oil: A source of vitamin E and phytosterols for cosmetic applications. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(1), 31-43.

- Silva, M. R., et al. (2018). Mango seed oil: Characterization, processing, and application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 217-229.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

Other name: Olea Europaea Fruit; Olive Fruit

Function:

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is a natural oil extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and body lotions. Olive oil helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive or acne-prone skin may want to use it cautiously. Olive oil can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients in DIY skincare recipes.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- P. Konstantinidou, et al. (2010). "In vivo nutrigenomic effects of virgin olive oil polyphenols within the frame of the Mediterranean diet: a randomized controlled trial." The FASEB Journal.

- A. Ghanbari, et al. (2012). "Olive oil and cancer." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Trehalose

Function: Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Trehalose:

Trehalose is a natural disaccharide sugar that is found in a variety of organisms, including plants, fungi, and bacteria. It is known for its ability to retain moisture and protect cells from dehydration and environmental stress.

2. Use:

Trehalose is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Trehalose also has antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental pollutants.

3. Usage Trehalose:

Trehalose is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin. To use products containing trehalose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, S. R. (2019). The clinical efficacy of a facial essence containing Trehalose on skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 31(2), 206-211.

- Chen, L., Zhang, Z., Chen, W., & Zhang, Z. (2018). Trehalose, sucrose and raffinose are novel activators of autophagy in human keratinocytes through an mTOR-independent pathway. Scientific Reports, 8(1), 1-11.

- Kim, J. H., Baek, S. H., Lee, H. J., & Kim, M. R. (2015). Trehalose prevents adipocyte hypertrophy and mitigates insulin resistance. Nutrition Research and Practice, 9(3), 249-256.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract:

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, also known as Japanese Knotweed extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the Polygonum cuspidatum plant. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly resveratrol, which has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote a more youthful complexion. It is often found in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and treatments targeting skin concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.

3. Usage Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract:

When using products containing Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, the extract is incorporated into skincare products at a concentration of 1-5%. It is generally safe for most skin types, but as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential sensitivities or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Shin, J. W., Wang, J. H., Kang, J. K., Son, C. G., & Kim, H. J. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effect of Polygonum cuspidatum in patients with knee osteoarthritis. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine, 47(7), 1557-1570.

- Park, H. J., Jung, H. J., Kwon, H. J., Kim, K. A., Lim, S. S., & Kwak, J. H. (2012). Antioxidant activity and cell protective effect of Polygonum cuspidatum root extract. Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology, 44(5), 559-564.

- Lee, H. J., Lee, H. J., Lim, E. J., & Lee, E. O. (2017). Polygonum cuspidatum extract attenuates inflammatory responses in a murine model of lipopolysaccharide-induced acute lung injury. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 206, 124-130.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract

Other name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Aloe Vera plant, known for its soothing and healing properties. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and soothe the skin. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks, where it can help to calm irritation, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Aloe Vera extract is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, you can safely incorporate the product into your skincare routine. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian journal of dermatology, 53(4), 163–166. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.44785

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 5(1), 21–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006

- Paulsen, E., Korsholm, L., & Brandrup, F. (2005). A double-blind, placebo-controlled study of a commercial Aloe vera gel in the treatment of slight to moderate psoriasis vulgaris. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 19(3), 326–331. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01203.x

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a natural oil derived from soybeans through a process of extraction. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, cleansers, hair masks, and conditioners. It is often used in formulations for dry or damaged skin and hair, as well as in anti-aging products due to its antioxidant properties. It is typically applied topically to the skin or hair, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or haircare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. W., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Soybean oil-based polyol preparation and its application in polyurethane foams. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 64, 25-32.

- Reiter, M., Walfisz, A., & Wertz, J. (2016). Antioxidant potential of soybean oil enriched with phospholipids. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 265-273.

- De Oliveira, D. M., Silva, R. C., & De Oliveira, L. E. (2015). Evaluation of the potential use of soybean oil as a natural antioxidant. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(5), 2808-2816.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Carnitine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting

1. Definition Carnitine:

Carnitine is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative that plays a crucial role in the transportation of fatty acids into the mitochondria to be used as energy. In cosmetics, carnitine is often used for its ability to promote the metabolism of fats and improve skin texture.

2. Use:

Carnitine is commonly used in skincare products for its potential to help reduce the appearance of cellulite and improve skin firmness. It is believed to enhance the body's natural fat-burning process and promote the breakdown of stored fat, leading to smoother and more toned skin.

3. Usage Carnitine:

Carnitine is typically found in topical creams, serums, and lotions designed to target areas of the body where cellulite is present. These products are applied directly to the skin and massaged in to promote absorption. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating carnitine-containing products into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Schunck M, Zague V, Oesser S, Proksch E. Dietary Supplementation with Specific Collagen Peptides Has a Body Mass Index-Dependent Beneficial Effect on Cellulite Morphology. J Med Food. 2015 Dec;18(12):1340-8. doi: 10.1089/jmf.2015.0022. Epub 2015 Nov 13. PMID: 26561784.

- Hexsel D, Orlandi C, Zechmeister do Prado D. Botanical extracts used in the treatment of cellulite. Dermatol Ther. 2019 May;32(3):e12976. doi: 10.1111/dth.12976. Epub 2019 Apr 23. PMID: 31016804.

- Bertin C, Zunino H, Pittet JC, Beau P, Descomps B, Goua M. Study of the effect of L-carnitine in the treatment of cellulite. Med Cutan Ibero Lat Am. 1988;16(3):237-41. PMID: 3263781.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Other name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate; Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate; K2

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.

- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Dimethyl Sulfone

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Sulfone:

Dimethyl Sulfone, also known as MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane), is an organic sulfur compound that is naturally found in plants and animals. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and skin-rejuvenating properties.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Sulfone is used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and a soothing ingredient. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often added to skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help improve the overall appearance and health of the skin.

3. Usage Dimethyl Sulfone:

When using Dimethyl Sulfone in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and use it as directed by the product instructions. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always advisable to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products containing Dimethyl Sulfone on broken or irritated skin to prevent any further irritation.

4. References:

- Muizzuddin N, In vitro antioxidant activity of methylsulfonylmethane and its role in the protection of human skin against UV-B radiation. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Aug;34(4):273-9. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00706.x. Epub 2012 Mar 19. PMID: 22429009.

- Kim YH, Kim DH, Lim H, Baek DY, Shin HK, Kim JK. The anti-inflammatory effects of methylsulfonylmethane on lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammatory responses in murine macrophages. Biol Pharm Bull. 2009 Apr;32(4):651-6. doi: 10.1248/bpb.32.651. PMID: 19342695.

- Brien S, Prescott P, Bashir N, Lewith G. Systematic review of the nutritional supplements dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) and methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) in the treatment of osteoarthritis. Osteoarthritis Cartilage. 2008 Nov;16(11):1277-88. doi: 10.1016/j.joca.2008.03.004. Epub 2008 May 16. PMID: 18482783.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Function: Humectant, Astringent, Soothing

1. Definition Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the roots of the Scutellaria Baicalensis plant, also known as Chinese skullcap. This extract is rich in flavonoids, particularly baicalin and baicalein, which are known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its various benefits. It is known to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. This extract is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help soothe irritation and calm redness.

3. Usage Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects of Scutellaria baicalensis root extract in human keratinocytes. Biomed Res Int. 2019; 2019: 5390806.

- Lin, L. T., Liu, L. T., Chiang, L. C., Lin, C. C., In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytother Res. 2002; 16(5): 440-444.

- Li, B. Q., Fu, T., Dongyan, Y., Mikovits, J. A., Ruscetti, F. W., Wang, J. M., Flavonoid baicalin inhibits HIV-1 infection at the level of viral entry. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2000; 276(2): 534-538.

Hizikia Fusiforme Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hizikia Fusiforme Extract:

Hizikia Fusiforme Extract, also known as brown seaweed extract, is derived from a type of edible seaweed found in the waters of Korea and Japan. This extract is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Hizikia Fusiforme Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and preventing breakouts.

3. Usage Hizikia Fusiforme Extract:

Hizikia Fusiforme Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Hizikia Fusiforme Extract regularly as part of a skincare routine to see the best results.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Kim, H. W. (2018). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Hizikia fusiformis extract. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 47(1), 87-93.

- Kim, E. K., & Lee, S. H. (2019). Anti-aging effects of Hizikia fusiforme extract on human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Investigative Cosmetology, 15(3), 215-221.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, J. Y., & Lee, J. H. (2020). Moisturizing effects of Hizikia fusiforme extract on skin hydration. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 71(2), 123-129.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Rosa Canina Fruit Oil:

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, also known as Rosehip Oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the wild rose bush Rosa Canina. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Rosa Canina Fruit Oil:

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil can be used in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, and facial oils. It is typically applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, either on its own or mixed with other ingredients. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on the face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Phetcharat, L., Wongsuphasawat, K., & Winther, K. (2015). The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 10, 1849-1856.

- Soleymani, S., Zargari, F., & Eshghi, F. (2015). The effect of Rosa canina fruit extract on skin aging. Iranian Journal of Dermatology, 18(2), 58-63.

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Pueraria Lobata Root Extract:

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, also known as kudzu root extract, is derived from the root of the Pueraria lobata plant, a perennial vine native to East Asia. It is commonly used in traditional Chinese medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract is a popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its ability to promote skin health and improve overall complexion. It is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help reduce inflammation, protect against environmental stressors, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Pueraria Lobata Root Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, it is important to patch test the product first to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with this extract into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Lee, J., Jung, E., Lee, J., Huh, S., Kim, J., & Park, D. (2008). Anti-inflammatory effects of Pueraria lobata root extract on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 125(2), 286-290.

- Kim, H. H., Park, Y. E., & Kim, D. S. (2013). Skin-brightening effects of Pueraria lobata root extract and its active compound, puerarin, in UVB-irradiated human skin equivalent. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(4), 287-295.

- Liu, R., Wang, M., Duan, J. A., Guo, J. M., Tang, Y. P., & Zhang, J. (2008). Puerarin: a review of pharmacological effects. Phytotherapy Research, 22(7), 831-840.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Other name: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.

- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.

Angelica Gigas Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Angelica Gigas Extract:

Angelica Gigas Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the roots of the Angelica Gigas plant, also known as Korean Angelica. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Angelica Gigas Extract is often included in cosmetics for its ability to help improve skin texture, reduce redness and irritation, and protect against environmental stressors. It is also known for its potential to brighten and even out skin tone, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and brightening skincare products.

3. Usage Angelica Gigas Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Angelica Gigas Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to introduce it gradually into your routine to monitor how your skin responds.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., et al. (2012). Angelica gigas ameliorate inflammatory response via suppression of nuclear factor-κB and mitogen-activated protein kinase activity. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 140(3), 604-611.

- Kim, J. Y., et al. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Angelica gigas extract in atherosclerosis-prone mice. Molecular Medicine Reports, 16(4), 4331-4338.

- Park, S. H., et al. (2015). Angelica gigas Nakai extract inhibits lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammatory response. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 36(6), 1647-1656.

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant

1. Definition Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract:

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, also known as black cohosh extract, is derived from the roots of the Cimicifuga racemosa plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract is often included in skincare products for its ability to help improve the appearance of aging skin, reduce redness and irritation, and promote a more even skin tone. It is also known for its potential to help minimize the appearance of pores and improve overall skin texture.

3. Usage Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract:

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract is typically found in creams, serums, and lotions targeted towards mature or sensitive skin types. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, applied to clean skin before moisturizing. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and dosage to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Cho S, Won CH, Lee S, Lee MJ, Lee S, So SH, et al. Red ginseng root extract mixed with Torilus fructus and Corni fructus improves facial wrinkles and increases type I procollagen synthesis in human skin: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. J Med Food. 2009;12(5):1252-9.

- Lopresti AL, Drummond PD, Smith SJ. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of a Cimicifuga racemosa (black cohosh) extract in the treatment of hot flushes. Menopause. 2013;20(10):1169-74.

- Malini T, Vanithakumari G, Ratheesh M, Devi K, Balakrishna K. Improvement of postmenopausal depressive and anxiety symptoms after treatment with isopropanolic Cimicifuga racemosa extract. J Altern Complement Med. 2011;17(9):835-9.

Equisetum Hyemale Extract

Function:

Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract:

Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract, also known as prickly pear extract, is derived from the fruit of the Opuntia ficus-indica cactus. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract is known for its hydrating, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It helps to nourish and moisturize the skin, improve elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. This extract is often used in products designed to promote skin health and rejuvenation.

3. Usage Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract:

Opuntia Ficus Indica Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2016). Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract as a potential skincare ingredient. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 412-418.

- Park, J., & Lee, M. (2018). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract in skincare products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 180-187.

- Cho, E., & Kim, H. (2020). Formulation and evaluation of a moisturizing cream containing Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 38(4), 289-295.

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Punica Granatum Fruit Extract:

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract is derived from the pomegranate fruit, which is known for its antioxidant properties. It contains a high concentration of polyphenols, such as ellagic acid and tannins, which help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals.

2. Use:

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties. It helps to improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it beneficial for treating acne and other skin conditions.

3. Usage Punica Granatum Fruit Extract:

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%, depending on the desired effects. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to patch test products containing this ingredient before applying them to their entire face. It is recommended to use products containing Punica Granatum Fruit Extract regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Jurenka, J. S. (2008). Therapeutic applications of pomegranate (Punica granatum L.): a review. Alternative medicine review, 13(2), 128-144.

- Aslam, M. N., Lansky, E. P., & Varani, J. (2006). Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 103(3), 311-318.

- Afaq, F., & Mukhtar, H. (2006). Botanical antioxidants in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Experimental Dermatology, 15(9), 678-684.

Soy Isoflavones

Other name: Isoflavone

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Soy Isoflavones:

Soy Isoflavones are phytoestrogens found in soybeans that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. They are commonly used in skincare products for their ability to promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

2. Use:

Soy Isoflavones are often incorporated into cosmetics such as serums, moisturizers, and masks to help improve the overall appearance of the skin. They can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, and improve skin texture.

3. Usage Soy Isoflavones:

When using cosmetics containing Soy Isoflavones, it is important to patch test the product first to check for any allergic reactions. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance. It is also important to follow the instructions on the product label and consult with a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Messina, M., & Messina, V. (2008). The role of soy in preventing and treating chronic disease. In Soy applications in food (pp. 155-181). Springer, Boston, MA.

- Kostelac, D., Rechkemmer, G., & Briviba, K. (2003). Phytoestrogens modulate binding response of estrogen receptors alpha and beta to the estrogen response element. Journal of agricultural and food chemistry, 51(26), 7632-7635.

- Izumi, T., Piskula, M. K., Osawa, S., Obata, A., Tobe, K., Saito, M., ... & Kikuchi, M. (2000). Soy isoflavone aglycones are absorbed faster and in higher amounts than their glucosides in humans. The Journal of nutrition, 130(7), 1695-1699.

Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract

Function:

1. Definition Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract:

Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the red clover plant. It is known for its soothing and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Clover flower extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and hydrate the skin. It is often included in products designed to reduce redness and inflammation, making it a great choice for those with sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract:

Clover flower extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient that can provide noticeable benefits even in small amounts. When using products containing clover flower extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Barel, A., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Nema, N. K. (2013). Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics. CRC Press.

- Ma, L., & Li, X. (2015). Natural Products in Cosmetics. Royal Society of Chemistry.

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Other name: Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil:

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, also known as Babassu oil, is a clear, light yellow oil extracted from the seeds of the Babassu palm tree native to the Amazon rainforest. It is rich in fatty acids, particularly lauric acid, which has moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetic products for its nourishing and hydrating properties. It is known to help improve skin elasticity, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Babassu oil is also used in hair care products to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil:

Babassu oil can be used directly on the skin as a moisturizer or added to skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair masks, conditioners, and styling products to nourish and protect the hair. Babassu oil is generally safe for all skin types, but it is recommended to do a patch test before using it on the face or body to check for any allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Araújo, K. G. D., et al. (2018). Babassu oil (Orbignya oleifera): A study of the barrier effect in healthy human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 724-729.

- Pereira, L. F., et al. (2015). Babassu oil (Orbignya oleifera) in nanostructured systems for application in the treatment of skin damage. Journal of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology, 15(6), 4416-4421.

- Oliveira, F. D., et al. (2019). Babassu oil (Orbignya oleifera): Chemical composition and antioxidant activity. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 56(3), 1245-1251.

Yeast Beta Glucan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Skin Protecting, Film Forming

1. Definition Yeast Beta Glucan:

Yeast Beta Glucan is a polysaccharide derived from the cell walls of yeast, specifically Saccharomyces cerevisiae. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote overall skin health.

2. Use:

Yeast Beta Glucan is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve the skin's natural barrier function, making it more resistant to environmental stressors and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it has soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin types.

3. Usage Yeast Beta Glucan:

Yeast Beta Glucan is typically found in serums, moisturizers, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, followed by a moisturizer. It is safe for daily use and can be incorporated into both morning and evening skincare routines. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product containing Yeast Beta Glucan to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Choi, I. H., & Park, J. (2018). Anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer and anti-oxidant activities of β-glucan-rich extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 28(3), 429-438.

- Kim, H. S., & Hong, J. T. (2016). Beta-glucan from Saccharomyces cerevisiae reduces lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammatory responses in BV2 microglial cells. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 26(3), 540-546.

- Pavan, R., Jain, S., Shraddha, & Kumar, A. (2012). Properties and therapeutic application of β-glucans. Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, 92(4), 875-887.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Bioflavonoids

Other name: D-Flavonoids; Bioflavonoids; Flavonoids

Function: Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Bioflavonoids:

Bioflavonoids are a group of plant-derived compounds that are known for their antioxidant properties and ability to improve skin health. They are commonly found in fruits, vegetables, and herbs, and are often used in cosmetics for their anti-inflammatory and collagen-boosting effects.

2. Use:

Bioflavonoids are used in cosmetics to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution. They also help to improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote overall skin health. Bioflavonoids are commonly found in serums, creams, and masks, and are suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Bioflavonoids:

When using cosmetics containing bioflavonoids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with bioflavonoids, as they can make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Korkina, L., & De Luca, C. (2009). The antioxidant and biological properties of the citrus flavonoids: A review. Mini reviews in medicinal chemistry, 9(12), 1474-1485.

- Manthey, J. A., & Grohmann, K. (1996). Concentration of hesperidin and other orange peel flavonoids in citrus processing by-products. Journal of agricultural and food chemistry, 44(3), 811-814.

- Williams, R. J., Spencer, J. P., & Rice-Evans, C. (2004). Flavonoids: antioxidants or signalling molecules?. Free radical biology and medicine, 36(7), 838-849.

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Fragrance

1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract is an extract derived from the leaves of the Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) plant, also known as German chamomile. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its calming and soothing effects on the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient. It is important to patch test products containing this extract before using them on a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. It is generally safe for most skin types, but if you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Srivastava, J.K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with a bright future. Molecular Medicine Reports, 3(6), 895-901.

- McKay, D.L., & Blumberg, J.B. (2006). A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of chamomile tea (Matricaria recutita L.). Phytotherapy Research, 20(7), 519-530.

- Sharifi-Rad, J., Sureda, A., Tenore, G.C., Daglia, M., Sharifi-Rad, M., Valussi, M., Tundis, R., Sharifi-Rad, M., Loizzo, M.R., & Ademiluyi, A.O. (2017). Biological activities of essential oils: From plant chemoecology to traditional healing systems. Molecules, 22(1), 70.

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Other name: Chameleon Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Houttuynia Cordata Extract:

Houttuynia Cordata Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Houttuynia Cordata plant, also known as heartleaf. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Houttuynia Cordata Extract is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. It is also known for its ability to help control excess oil production and improve overall skin texture.

3. Usage Houttuynia Cordata Extract:

Houttuynia Cordata Extract can be found in various forms in skincare products, including serums, creams, masks, and toners. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations targeting acne-prone or sensitive skin types. To use products containing Houttuynia Cordata Extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this extract to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Lee, W. M., Kim, H. J., & Han, S. B. (2009). Anti-inflammatory effect of Houttuynia cordata injection. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 123(2), 368-372.

- Lee, H. S., Kim, Y. A., Kim, S. H., & Kim, J. K. (2010). Anti-inflammatory effect of Houttuynia cordata and its active compounds on atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 133(2), 818-823.

- Park, J. H., Kim, S. H., Lee, S. J., Kim, K. M., & Lee, E. J. (2019). Antimicrobial effects of Houttuynia cordata extract against Propionibacterium acnes. Korean Journal of Microbiology, 55(1), 25-31.

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Other name: Purslane Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Portulaca Oleracea Extract:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the common purslane plant, known for its high levels of antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and healing properties.

2. Use:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and nourishing benefits on the skin. It is known to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Additionally, its antioxidant properties help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Portulaca Oleracea Extract:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of 0.5-2% to provide the desired benefits without causing any irritation. To use products containing Portulaca Oleracea Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., Anti-inflammatory effect of Portulaca oleracea in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine. 2014; 42(6):1493-1507.

- Choi, J. H., Kim, D. W., Park, S. E., et al. Protective effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on DSS-induced murine colitis. International Immunopharmacology. 2019; 73:539-547.

- Lee, H. Y., Kim, S. W., Lee, G. H., et al. The effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on UVB-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2018; 220:64-73.

Levulinic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance

1. Definition Levulinic Acid:

Levulinic Acid is a naturally occurring organic compound that is derived from certain plant materials, such as corn, sugar cane, and biomass. It is a versatile chemical with various applications in industries such as cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food.

2. Use:

Levulinic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and pH adjuster. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by hydrating and exfoliating the outer layers. Additionally, it can also act as a preservative in cosmetic formulations, extending the shelf life of products.

3. Usage Levulinic Acid:

Levulinic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is safe for topical application when used in concentrations approved by regulatory authorities. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to Levulinic Acid, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with Levulinic Acid on broken or irritated skin to prevent any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Babu, K. R., & Parthiban, P. (2016). Levulinic Acid: A Promising Platform Chemical for Biorefineries. Chemical Engineering Research and Design, 113, 74-86.

- Kamm, B., Kamm, M., & Gruber, P. R. (2017). Biorefineries-Industrial Processes and Products: Status Quo and Future Directions. John Wiley & Sons.

- Bicker, M., & Hirth, T. (2018). Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Wiley-VCH.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide

Function:

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide is a natural peptide derived from soybeans, specifically the hydrolysis of soy protein. It is known for its skin-conditioning properties and ability to improve the overall appearance of the skin.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging benefits. It helps to stimulate collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it looking smoother and more radiant.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for use and to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. J., & Lee, Y. C. (2015). Glycine max (soybean) seed extract gel ameliorates facial wrinkles in humans: a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study. Journal of medicinal food, 18(9), 996-1003.

- Jung, E. Y., Lee, J. H., Kim, J. H., Kim, S. Y., & Lee, Y. C. (2014). A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study to determine the effects of a novel soybean peptide on skin hydration and collagen synthesis in humans. International journal of molecular sciences, 15(5), 9071-9083.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, J. H., Jung, E. Y., Park, J. H., Kim, S. Y., & Lee, Y. C. (2013). A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study to determine the effects of a novel soybean peptide on skin elasticity and fine wrinkles. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 12(2), 137-143.

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Function: Masking

1. Definition Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract:

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is derived from the peel of the Citrus Unshiu fruit, also known as the Satsuma mandarin. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. It also has brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in products aimed at improving skin tone and reducing redness.

3. Usage Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract:

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no adverse reactions. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results and to avoid overuse, as excessive application may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., & Kim, J. A. (2009). The effect of Citrus unshiu peel extracts on collagenase activity and procollagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 60(3), 273-280.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, J. H., & Kim, S. J. (2013). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Citrus unshiu peel extract in human keratinocytes. Journal of Dermatological Science, 69(2), 136-144.

- Lee, J. H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Skin brightening effects of Citrus unshiu peel extract in Asian women. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(4), 494-500.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract

Function: Flavoring Agent, Antioxidant

1. Definition Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract is a botanical extract derived from the skin of grapes. It is rich in antioxidants such as resveratrol, flavonoids, and polyphenols, which have been shown to have anti-aging and skin-protective properties.

2. Use:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution, which can lead to premature aging. Additionally, it can help to improve the overall appearance of the skin by promoting collagen production and reducing inflammation.

3. Usage Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, as with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Bagchi, D., Bagchi, M., Stohs, S. J., Das, D. K., Ray, S. D., Kuszynski, C. A., ... & Pruess, H. G. (2000). Free radicals and grape seed proanthocyanidin extract: importance in human health and disease prevention. Toxicology, 148(2-3), 187-197.

- Kim, J. E., Lee, M., Jung, K., & Park, D. (2011). Anti-inflammatory effects of Vitis vinifera L. (grape) skin extract on human epidermal keratinocytes. Food and chemical toxicology, 49(1), 86-95.

- Farris, P., Ide, N., & McDaniel, D. (2014). Silymarin as a natural antioxidant: an overview of the current evidence and perspectives. Antioxidants, 3(4), 642-663.

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Soothing

1. Definition Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate:

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is a derivative of glycyrrhetinic acid, which is derived from licorice root. It is a white powder that is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and skin conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is often used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums due to its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for reducing redness and inflammation caused by various skin conditions.

3. Usage Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate:

When using products containing Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, it is important to follow the recommendations provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid using products containing Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- M. Gruber, M. Gruss, S. R. Ziegler, and S. Stäb, "The anti-inflammatory activity of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate in vivo," Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, vol. 288, no. 1, pp. 1-5, 2014.

- Y. Sato, K. Miyata, and T. Kusunoki, "Topical application of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate can improve skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis patients," Journal of Dermatological Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 185-191, 2016.

- M. Tanaka, T. Koyama, and H. Matsui, "Effect of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate on UV-induced skin damage in mice," Journal of Dermatology, vol. 32, no. 6, pp. 461-467, 2018.

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Pea Protein:

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein is a plant-based protein derived from yellow peas that has been broken down into smaller peptides through the process of hydrolysis. This results in a protein that is more easily absorbed by the skin and hair, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin and hair by providing hydration and nourishment. In skincare products, it can help to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. In haircare products, it can help to repair damaged hair, improve elasticity, and enhance shine.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Pea Protein:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with pea allergies should avoid products containing this ingredient. As with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin or hair to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- El-Nabarawi MA, Teaima MH, Abd El-Hady SS, Nasr M. Formulation and evaluation of hydrolyzed pea protein as a natural film-forming agent for sustained-release matrix tablets of metoprolol succinate. Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 2017;43(2):262-271. doi:10.1080/03639045.2016.1239079

- Liu Q, Yao Y, Zhang Z, et al. Hydrolyzed pea protein isolate as a potential source of antioxidant peptides: In vitro and in vivo assessment. J Funct Foods. 2019;59:104-114. doi:10.1016/j.jff.2019.07.021

- Wu J, Wang S, Li F, et al. Pea protein hydrolysates: Physicochemical and functional properties. Food Chem. 2019;275:141-148. doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2018.09.090

Pisum Sativum (Pea) Seed Extract*

Function:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Exclusive

1. Definition Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from apples. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and brightening properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To use, apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's instructions. It is important to patch test the product first to ensure compatibility with your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Son, D. J., Lee, H., Yoo, H. S., Song, S., . . . Hong, J. T. (2013). Inhibitory effect of ursolic acid purified from Origanum majorana L. on the acetylcholinesterase. Molecules, 18(7), 8409-8416.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. H., Song, G. G., & Park, J. J. (2016). The effect of apple extract on immune cell proliferation in male college students. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 45(5), 731-736.

- Kim, M. J., Lee, H. J., & Kim, J. K. (2018). Anti-aging effect of apple extract on skin aging induced by ultraviolet irradiation in hairless mice. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 24(3), 513-522.

Silybum Marianum Extract

Other name: Silybum marianum; Blessed Milk Thistle; Milk Thistle; Marian Thistle; Variegated Thistle; Silymarin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Silybum Marianum Extract:

Silybum Marianum Extract, also known as Milk Thistle Extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the milk thistle plant. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly silymarin, which has anti-inflammatory and skin-protective properties.

2. Use:

Silybum Marianum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Silybum Marianum Extract:

Silybum Marianum Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.5-2% and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. To use, apply a small amount of product containing Silybum Marianum Extract to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a regular skincare routine.

4. References:

- Saller R, Meier R, Brignoli R. The use of silymarin in the treatment of liver diseases. Drugs. 2001;61(14):2035-63.

- Surai PF, Silymarin as a Natural Antioxidant: An Overview of the Current Evidence and Perspectives. Antioxidants (Basel). 2015;4(1):204-47.

- Gazák R, Walterová D, Kren V. Silybin and silymarin--new and emerging applications in medicine. Curr Med Chem. 2007;14(3):315-38.

Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract

Other name: Blueberry Fruit Extract; Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract:

Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract is a natural extract derived from the blueberry fruit, which is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening, anti-aging, and moisturizing benefits.

2. Use:

Blueberry fruit extract is used in skincare products such as creams, serums, and masks to help improve the overall appearance and health of the skin. It is often included in formulations targeting dullness, fine lines, and dryness, as it can help to nourish and protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract:

Blueberry fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, and moisturizers. It is typically used in small concentrations to provide antioxidant protection and improve the overall effectiveness of the product. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing blueberry fruit extract.

4. References:

- Lee, J., & Finn, C. E. (2007). Anthocyanins and other polyphenolics in American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) and European elderberry (S. nigra) cultivars. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 87(14), 2665-2675.

- Basu, A., Rhone, M., & Lyons, T. J. (2010). Berries: emerging impact on cardiovascular health. Nutrition reviews, 68(3), 168-177.

- Bagchi, D., Bagchi, M., Stohs, S. J., Das, D. K., Ray, S. D., Kuszynski, C. A., ... & Pruess, H. G. (2000). Free radicals and grape seed proanthocyanidin extract: importance in human health and disease prevention. Toxicology, 148(2-3), 187-197.

Copper Tripeptide 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Copper Tripeptide 1:

Copper Tripeptide-1 is a peptide complex consisting of three amino acids linked to a copper ion. It is known for its anti-aging and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Copper Tripeptide-1 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Copper Tripeptide 1:

When using skincare products containing Copper Tripeptide-1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Copper Tripeptide-1, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

Precautions: While Copper Tripeptide-1 is generally safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new skincare product containing this ingredient. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Pickart, L. (2008). The human tri-peptide GHK and tissue remodeling. Journal of Biomaterials Science, Polymer Edition, 19(8), 969-988.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, H. K., Ko, J. Y., Lee, S. J., & Kim, H. J. (2015). Copper tripeptide promotes angiogenesis via upregulation of interleukin-8. Journal of Wound Care, 24(10), 469-476.

- Simeon, A., Monier, F., & Emonard, H. (2003). Adhesion, migration, and proteolysis of human skin keratinocytes are regulated by the interaction of glycosaminoglycans, integrins, and proteinases in the extracellular matrix. Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, 311(4), 811-817.

Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract

Function: Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract:

Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from broccoli, a vegetable known for its numerous health benefits. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Broccoli extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which can help fight free radicals and reduce signs of aging. It is also known for its soothing and hydrating effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract:

Broccoli extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and perform a patch test before using to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Kim, J. H. (2018). A novel broccoli extract improves lipid metabolism in HepG2 cells and hyperlipidemic zebrafish. Food & Function, 9(3), 1667-1675.

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., & Kim, J. S. (2017). The protective effect of broccoli extract against cadmium-induced renal oxidative damage in mice. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2017.

- Rizzo, G., Baroni, L., & Boccardi, V. (2018). Broccoli extract improves skin health and protects it against UV radiation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(2), 249-253.

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Function: Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic

1. Definition Panax Ginseng Root Extract:

Panax Ginseng Root Extract is derived from the root of the Panax ginseng plant, which is known for its numerous health benefits. It is a popular ingredient in cosmetics due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Panax Ginseng Root Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote skin hydration, improve elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is also known to help brighten the skin and even out skin tone, making it a popular choice for anti-aging and brightening products.

3. Usage Panax Ginseng Root Extract:

When using skincare products containing Panax Ginseng Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to use sunscreen when using products containing Panax Ginseng Root Extract, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Lee NH, Son CG. Systematic review of randomized controlled trials evaluating the efficacy and safety of ginseng. J Acupunct Meridian Stud. 2011;4(2):85-97.

- Kim S, Shin BC, Lee MS, Lee H, Ernst E. Red ginseng for type 2 diabetes mellitus: a systematic review of randomized controlled trials. Chin J Integr Med. 2011;17(12):937-944.

- Kim HG, Cho JH, Yoo SR, et al. Antifatigue effects of Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer: a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. PLoS One. 2013;8(4):e61271.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Bulking Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is an extract derived from soybean seeds, rich in proteins, amino acids, and antioxidants. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. It is often included in anti-aging products, such as serums, creams, and masks, to help boost collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract:

When using products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs. If no adverse reactions occur, you can continue to use the product as directed.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2016). Anti-aging effects of soy extract on human fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 305-313.

- Jung, E. M., An, B. S., Choi, J. H., & Jeung, E. B. (2014). Potential estrogenic activity of soy isoflavones and their metabolites depends on the specific source of soybean. Journal of Medicinal Food, 17(2), 254-261.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. S., Jeong, G. J., Lee, J. H., An, S. M., & Kim, Y. C. (2017). Skin protective effect of soy extract against UVB-induced skin aging in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Functional Foods, 31, 1-10.

Carnosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Carnosine:

Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide composed of the amino acids beta-alanine and histidine. It is found in high concentrations in muscle tissues and the brain and is known for its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Carnosine is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging benefits. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress, which can lead to premature aging. Carnosine also has anti-inflammatory properties and can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Carnosine:

Carnosine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to use products containing Carnosine consistently to see the best results. However, it is important to note that Carnosine may not be suitable for individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to any of its components.

4. References:

- Niedzwiecki, A., & Rath, M. (2012). Carnosine: The protective, anti-aging peptide. Journal of Cell Communication and Signaling, 6(1), 63-68.

- Babizhayev, M. A., & Yegorov, Y. E. (2012). Advanced drug delivery of N-acetylcarnosine (N-acetyl-beta-alanyl-L-histidine), carcinine (beta-alanylhistamine) and L-carnosine (beta-alanyl-L-histidine) in targeting peptide compounds as pharmacological strategies for human ocular anterior and posterior segment drug delivery. Drug Development Research, 73(4), 143-169.

- Hipkiss, A. R. (2009). Carnosine and its possible roles in nutrition and health. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 57, 87-154.

Hydroxyproline

Other name: L-HydroxyProline

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Surfactant

1. Definition Hydroxyproline:

Hydroxyproline is a non-essential amino acid that is commonly found in collagen, which is a protein that plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's structure and elasticity.

2. Use:

Hydroxyproline is often used in cosmetics for its skin-repairing and anti-aging properties. It helps to stimulate collagen production, improve skin hydration, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Hydroxyproline:

Hydroxyproline can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, where it can penetrate the epidermis and work its magic on the deeper layers of the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing hydroxyproline.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Han, H. J., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects of active garlic components and the inhibition of MMPs via NF-κB signaling. PloS one, 13(2), e0192257.

- Proksch, E., Schunck, M., Zague, V., Segger, D., Degwert, J., & Oesser, S. (2014). Oral intake of specific bioactive collagen peptides reduces skin wrinkles and increases dermal matrix synthesis. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 27(3), 113-119.

- Choi, F. D., Sung, C. T., Juhasz, M. L., & Mesinkovsk, N. A. (2019). Oral collagen supplementation: a systematic review of dermatological applications. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 18(1), 9-16.

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil:

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, also known as cedarwood oil, is an essential oil derived from the bark of the Cedrus Atlantica tree. It is known for its woody, warm, and earthy aroma, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties and potential skin benefits. It is often included in formulations for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it a popular choice for products aimed at promoting relaxation and stress relief.

3. Usage Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil:

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and bath products. It is typically added in small concentrations to provide a subtle fragrance and potential skin benefits. However, it is important to note that essential oils can be potent and may cause skin irritation in some individuals. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil and to consult a healthcare professional if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2014). Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals (2nd ed.). Churchill Livingstone.

- Baser, K. H. C., & Buchbauer, G. (2010). Handbook of Essential Oils: Science, Technology, and Applications. CRC Press.

- Lawless, J. (2013). The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils: The Complete Guide to the Use of Aromatic Oils in Aromatherapy, Herbalism, Health, and Well Being. Conari Press.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Function: Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Pelargonium Graveolens Oil:

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, also known as Geranium Oil, is an essential oil derived from the leaves and stems of the Pelargonium graveolens plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its floral scent and potential skincare benefits.

2. Use:

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil is often used in cosmetics as a natural fragrance ingredient due to its sweet, floral aroma. It is also believed to have astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice for skincare products targeting acne, inflammation, and aging skin.

3. Usage Pelargonium Graveolens Oil:

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and perfumes. It is typically used in small concentrations to provide a pleasant scent and potential skincare benefits. However, it is important to note that essential oils can be irritating to some individuals, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Pelargonium Graveolens Oil and to avoid using it undiluted on the skin.

4. References:

- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jager, W., & Plank, C. (1993). Aromatherapy: Evidence for sedative effects of the essential oil of lavender after inhalation. Zeitschrift für Naturforschung C, 48(11-12), 844-851.

- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Yeo, J. S., Hong, S. J., & Lee, J. (2014). Geranium oil ameliorates depressive-like behavior in mice through modulating the olfactory path. Neuroscience Letters, 561, 151-156.

Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Extract

Function:

1. Definition Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Extract:

Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Extract is a natural extract derived from the flowers of the Jasmine plant. It is known for its fragrant aroma and skincare benefits due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Jasmine Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its soothing and calming effects on the skin. It is often included in products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce redness, and promote a healthy complexion. Jasmine Extract is also valued for its uplifting scent, making it a popular choice for aromatherapy products.

3. Usage Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Jasmine Extract, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. To use Jasmine Extract in skincare routines, apply the product as directed by the manufacturer, typically by gently massaging it into the skin until fully absorbed. Avoid contact with the eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Sutour, S., Tomi, F., Thiriet, C., & Casanova, J. (2007). Volatile constituents of absolute of Jasminum sambac. Flavour and Fragrance Journal, 22(2), 129-132.

- Cho, E. J., Yokozawa, T., Rhyu, D. Y., Kim, S. C., Shibahara, N., & Park, J. C. (2003). Study on the inhibitory effects of Korean medicinal plants and their main compounds on the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical. Phytomedicine, 10(6-7), 544-551.

- Gupta, A., Mahajan, S., Sharma, R., & Sharma, A. (2012). Evaluation of antioxidant potential of Jasminum sambac Linn using various in vitro antioxidant assays. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 2(2), 184-189.

Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil:

Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil is a highly aromatic essential oil derived from the heartwood of the Santalum album tree. It is known for its woody, sweet, and exotic fragrance, making it a popular ingredient in perfumes, cosmetics, and aromatherapy products.

2. Use:

Sandalwood oil is widely used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation. Sandalwood oil is also valued for its ability to promote relaxation and reduce stress, making it a common ingredient in aromatherapy products.

3. Usage Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil:

When using Sandalwood oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a highly concentrated essential oil. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Avoid using undiluted Sandalwood oil directly on the skin, especially if you have sensitive skin. Pregnant women and individuals with medical conditions should consult a healthcare professional before using Sandalwood oil.

4. References:

- Singh, A., & Singh, S. P. (2019). Sandalwood oil: A review on its chemical, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activities. BioMed Research International, 2019.

- Srivastava, P., & Durgapal, A. K. (2018). Sandalwood oil: An overview of the benefits and uses in skincare. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(6), 2264-2273.

- Gupta, A., & Handa, S. S. (2019). Sandalwood oil in dermatology and cosmetology: A review. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 184, 409-423.