Full ingredients list Florence by Mills Episode 4: Soak It In

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1		Plankton Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizome Extract
1		Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive)
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1		Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract
1	A	Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract
1	B	Undecylenoyl Glycine (Surfactant, Hair Conditioning, Cleansing)
1		Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract (Moisturising, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1 3		Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice
		Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
1		Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning)
1		Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Glyceryl Undecylenate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
2		Phytic Acid (Chelating Agent)
1		Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Beta Glucan (Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent)	Good for dry skin
1		Hydroxyacetophenone (Antioxidant)
1		Phosphatidylglycerol (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Antioxidant)
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
1		Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Saccharomyces/ Lysate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Carnosine (Skin Conditioning)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1		Blue 1
3 6		Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (Ci 60730)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Plankton Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Plankton Extract:

Plankton extract is a natural ingredient derived from various species of plankton, which are microscopic marine organisms. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Plankton extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging, hydrating, and brightening properties. It helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, plankton extract has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Plankton Extract:

Plankton extract is typically found in serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using it on the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K., & Thomas, N. V. (2011). Marine Cosmeceuticals: Trends and Prospects. CRC Press.

- Garmyn, D., & Mammone, T. (2008). Plankton extract as an anti-aging ingredient. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 7(3), 201-206.

- Lee, C. H., & Kim, S. K. (2013). Marine-derived anti-wrinkle peptides. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 14(2), 15892-15907.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizome Extract

Function:

1. Definition Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizome Extract:

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizome Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the rhizomes of the Curcuma longa plant, commonly known as turmeric. It is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizome Extract is used in cosmetics for its various skin benefits. It helps to brighten the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health. It is also known for its ability to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, making it a popular choice for those looking to achieve a more even skin tone.

3. Usage Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizome Extract:

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Rhizome Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid staining the skin. It is important to patch test products containing turmeric extract before use, as some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. It is also recommended to use sunscreen when using products with turmeric extract, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Vaughn AR, Branum A, Sivamani RK. Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytother Res. 2016;30(8):1243-64. doi: 10.1002/ptr.5640.

- Prasad S, Aggarwal BB. Turmeric, the Golden Spice: From Traditional Medicine to Modern Medicine. In: Benzie IFF, Wachtel-Galor S, editors. Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition. Boca Raton (FL): CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2011. Chapter 13. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK92752/.

- Hewlings SJ, Kalman DS. Curcumin: A Review of Its’ Effects on Human Health. Foods. 2017;6(10):92. doi: 10.3390/foods6100092.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive

1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and lip balms due to its lightweight texture and non-greasy feel. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is also beneficial for hair care products, as it can help condition and strengthen the hair.

3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

When using products containing Jojoba Seed Oil Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or used as an ingredient in DIY beauty recipes. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to nuts or seeds should use caution.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." 7th Edition.

- Dweck, A. C. (2003). "The Jojoba Story." Personal Care Magazine, 4(1), 1-4.

- Meier, L., & Sticher, O. (2004). "Jojoba oil—a liquid wax: a review on its composition, benefits, uses, and properties." Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 14(1), 1-6.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract

Other name: Ribes Nigrum Fruit Extract; Black Currant Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract:

Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the black currant fruit, known for its high content of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Black currant fruit extract is used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote a healthy complexion. It is often included in anti-aging formulations to help combat the signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, black currant extract is known to help brighten the skin and improve overall skin tone.

3. Usage Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract:

Black currant fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients. To use, apply a small amount of product containing black currant extract to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kwon, Y. S., Park, S. H., Kang, Y. M., & Lee, J. G. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of black currant (Ribes nigrum) extract via the nuclear factor-kappa B signaling pathway in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food Science and Biotechnology, 21(6), 1663-1669.

- Lee, K. W., Kim, Y. J., Kim, D. O., Lee, H. J., & Lee, C. Y. (2005). Major phenolics in black currant extracts and phenolic content of black currant and other berry fruits by high-performance liquid chromatography. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 53(8), 2842-2848.

- Jang, J. H., Kim, S. W., Kwon, Y. S., & Lee, J. G. (2011). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of black currant (Ribes nigrum) extract in high-fat diet-fed C57BL/6 mice. Food Science and Biotechnology, 20(2), 505-511.

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil:

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, also known as Baobab Seed Oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Adansonia digitata tree, commonly known as the Baobab tree. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A, D, E, and F, as well as antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and promote healthy hair growth. This oil is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin, as it is easily absorbed and does not clog pores.

3. Usage Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil:

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, such as facial serums, moisturizers, hair masks, and body oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using this oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and preserve its efficacy.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2003). Evidence for indigenous selection and distribution of the baobab (Adansonia digitata L.) in the Arabian Peninsula. Journal of Ethnobiology and Ethnomedicine, 1(1), 12.

- Verotta, L., Lovaglio, E., Vidari, G., Finzi, P. V., & Vita-Finzi, P. (2001). Saponins from Adansonia digitata. Phytochemistry, 58(2), 311-315.

- Chadare, F. J., Linnemann, A. R., Hounhouigan, J. D., Nout, M. J. R., & Van Boekel, M. A. J. S. (2009). Baobab food products: a review on their composition and nutritional value. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 49(3), 254-274.

Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil:

Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) through a cold-pressing process. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Watermelon seed oil is known for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, promote hair growth, and add shine.

3. Usage Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil:

Watermelon seed oil can be used in various cosmetic formulations such as moisturizers, serums, lotions, creams, hair oils, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using watermelon seed oil, it is recommended to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to maintain its potency.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., et al. (2016). Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus var. lanatus) seed oil: A rich source of cis-9, trans-11, trans-13 conjugated linolenic acid. Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 47, 67-71.

- Chalamaiah, M., et al. (2012). Watermelon seed oil: A potential source of non-GMO linolenic acid. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 89(5), 917-924.

- Górnaś, P., et al. (2017). Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) seed oil: A review of physicochemical properties and characteristics. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 119(8), 1600360.

Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract

Function:

1. Definition Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract:

Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the leaves of the basil plant. It is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Basil leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, soothe irritation, and promote a more even skin tone. It is also believed to have a calming effect on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin types. In haircare products, basil leaf extract is often included for its nourishing properties, helping to strengthen and condition the hair.

3. Usage Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about using products with basil leaf extract.

4. References:

- Ravi, V., Saleem, T. S. M., Patel, S. S., & Raamamurthy, J. (2008). Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antinociceptive activities of essential oil from ginger. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 70(4), 499-505.

- Viuda-Martos, M., Mohamady, M. A., Fernández-López, J., & Abd ElRazik, K. A. (2014). In vitro antioxidant and antibacterial activities of essentials oils obtained from Egyptian aromatic plants. Food Control, 30(1), 217-222.

- Mehta, A., & Sethi, A. (2013). A review on herbal cosmetics. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 4(2), 609-621.

Undecylenoyl Glycine

Function: Surfactant, Hair Conditioning, Cleansing

1. Definition Undecylenoyl Glycine:

Undecylenoyl Glycine is a compound derived from undecylenic acid and glycine, commonly used in cosmetics for its antimicrobial and skin conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Undecylenoyl Glycine is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and serums due to its ability to inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria on the skin. It is also known for its ability to regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Undecylenoyl Glycine:

When using products containing Undecylenoyl Glycine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and allow it to fully absorb before applying any additional skincare products. As with any new skincare ingredient, a patch test is recommended to check for any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Katsambas A, Dessinioti C. New and emerging treatments in dermatology: acne. Dermatol Ther. 2008;21(2):86-95. doi:10.1111/j.1529-8019.2008.00188.x

- Bojar RA, Cunliffe WJ, Holland KT. The short-term treatment of acne vulgaris with benzoyl peroxide: effects on the surface and follicular cutaneous microflora. Br J Dermatol. 1995;132(2):204-208. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.1995.tb05077.x

- Dall'oglio F, Tedeschi A, Fabbrocini G, Veraldi S, Picardo M, Micali G. Cosmeceutical use in acne: a comprehensive review. G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2017;152(4):362-368. doi:10.23736/S0392-0488.17.05793-1

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract

Function: Moisturising, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the outer layer of rice grains. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that offer numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing effects, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and lotions. It is typically included in formulations at concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, apply products containing Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Extract to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, M. K., Lee, H. S., Kim, E. J., & Won, Y. H. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenic effects of arbutin-loaded rice hull extract nanoparticles. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(6), 631-636.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, H. J., Cho, S. D., & Park, H. J. (2019). Anti-aging effects of rice hull extract on human skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(3), 810-816.

- Park, J. S., & Kim, Y. S. (2020). Skin brightening effects of rice hull extract in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 38(2), 87-93.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice

Function:

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice is a natural extract derived from the succulent leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, calming, and healing properties. It is often included in products such as moisturizers, lotions, sunscreens, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied directly to the skin or used as an ingredient in skincare products. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and irritated skin. When using products containing Aloe Vera, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Aloe Vera into your skincare routine, especially if you have any skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 5(1), 21–26.

- Choi, S., Chung, M. H., & Aeschbach, R. (2001). Antioxidant activity of Aloe vera in vitro study. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50(16), 3718–3722.

Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Function:

1. Definition Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is an extract derived from the flowers, leaves, and stems of the Agastache Mexicana plant. This plant is native to Mexico and belongs to the Lamiaceae family.

2. Use:

Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is known to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health.

3. Usage Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically added to formulations at a recommended concentration to ensure its efficacy without causing any adverse reactions. It is important to patch test products containing this extract before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Morales, P., Ferreira, I.C.F.R., Carvalho, A.M., Sánchez-Mata, M.C., & Cámara, M. (2014). Triterpenic, phenolic compounds, and antioxidant activity of Agastache mexicana and A. palmeri. Industrial Crops and Products, 53, 19-27.

- Ramírez-Cisneros, M.A., Sánchez-Mata, M.C., & Cámara, M. (2017). Phytochemical and antioxidant characterization of Agastache mexicana and A. palmeri. Industrial Crops and Products, 95, 393-400.

- López, A., de Tangil, M.S., Vega-Orellana, O., & Ramírez-Ascheri, J.L. (2013). Phenolic constituents, antioxidant and preliminary antimycoplasmic activities of leaf extracts from Agastache mexicana subsp. mexicana. Industrial Crops and Products, 49, 584-590.

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Undaria Pinnatifida Extract:

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, also known as Wakame Extract, is derived from a brown seaweed species native to the waters of Japan, Korea, and China. It is rich in essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing effects on the skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Undaria Pinnatifida Extract:

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. To incorporate it into your skincare routine, simply apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin, following the instructions provided on the packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. Y., Kim, M. J., Cho, H. S., & Kim, D. S. (2008). Anti-inflammatory effects of brown algae-derived phytochemicals, fucoidans and phlorotannins, on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(5), 1712-1719.

- Koyama, N., Kuribayashi, K., Seki, T., Kobayashi, K., & Suzuki, T. (2003). Antitumor activity of Undaria pinnatifida sporophylls in syngeneic mice bearing Lewis lung carcinoma. Anticancer Research, 23(4), 4125-4131.

- Wijesinghe, W. A. J. P., & Jeon, Y. J. (2011). Biological activities and potential industrial applications of fucose-rich sulfated polysaccharides and fucoidans isolated from brown seaweeds: A review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 84(2), 14-21.

Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract:

Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract is derived from the fruit of the Baobab tree, which is native to Africa. It is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract is known for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is commonly used in moisturizers, serums, and masks to nourish and revitalize the skin.

3. Usage Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the entire face. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also important to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Chivandi, E., Davidson, B. C., & Erlwanger, K. H. (2017). A review on the use of baobab (Adansonia digitata) products for human nutrition. Journal of Nutrition & Food Sciences, 7(5), 1-7.

- Nsimba, R. Y., Kikuzaki, H., Konishi, Y., & Konoshima, T. (2004). Antioxidant activity of various extracts and fractions of chenopodium quinoa and Amaranthus spp. seeds. Food Chemistry, 86(2), 191-195.

- Van Wyk, B. E., & Wink, M. (2004). Medicinal plants of the world. Portland, OR: Timber Press.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Undecylenate:

Glyceryl Undecylenate is an ester derived from glycerin and undecylenic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Undecylenate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and cleansers due to its moisturizing properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for products targeting dry or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Glyceryl Undecylenate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Undecylenate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Undecylenate" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-undecylenate

- "Undecylenic Acid" Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/undecylenic-acid

- "Glyceryl Undecylenate" The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-undecylenate/

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Phytic Acid

Other name: Inositol Hexaphosphate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Phytic Acid:

Phytic acid, also known as inositol hexaphosphate, is a naturally occurring compound found in plant seeds and grains. It is a powerful antioxidant and chelating agent that can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

2. Use:

Phytic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It can help to gently remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Additionally, phytic acid has been shown to have skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Phytic Acid:

When using products containing phytic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of phytic acid and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing phytic acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., Gaspar, L. R., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2006). Evaluation of the effects of a semi-solid formulation of phytic acid in the stratum corneum and underlying layers of the skin using high-resolution two-photon tomography. Skin Research and Technology, 12(2), 105–111.

- Schagen, S. K., & Zampeli, V. A. (2019). Phytic acid in skincare formulations. Cosmetics, 6(2), 29.

Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract:

Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, also known as sweet potato extract, is derived from the roots of the sweet potato plant. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and promote a healthy complexion. Additionally, it is known for its anti-aging effects, as it can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract:

Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations designed to hydrate and nourish the skin. To use products containing this extract, simply apply them to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lee, H.S., Kim, M.R., Park, Y., Kim, H.J., Kim, E.J., Lee, D.Y., & Lee, J. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effect of Ipomoea batatas (sweet potato) leaves in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Preventive Nutrition and Food Science, 22(3), 195-202.

- Kim, J.Y., Lee, J.H., Kim, Y., Kim, H.J., Kim, M.R., & Kim, E.J. (2018). Anti-wrinkle effect of Ipomoea batatas leaf extract on skin aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(6), 1097-1103.

- Park, Y., Kim, M.R., Lee, H.S., Kim, H.J., Lee, D.Y., & Lee, J. (2016). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Ipomoea batatas (sweet potato) leaves in UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocytes. Journal of Medicinal Food, 19(7), 663-671.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Beta Glucan

Other name: β-Glucans; 1,3-Glucan,1,6-Glucan; Beta-Glucan; β-Glucan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Beta Glucan:

Beta Glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, algae, lichens, and plants. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote skin healing.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Beta Glucan is used for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin. Beta Glucan is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.

3. Usage Beta Glucan:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Glucan, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine. To maximize the benefits of Beta Glucan, apply the product to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.

4. References:

- Choi, J. K., Kim, S. H. (2018). Inhibitory effects of β-glucan on the production of inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 54, 72-80.

- Kim, H. S., Hong, J. T., Kim, Y., Han, S. B. (2016). Stimulatory Effect of β-Glucans on Immune Cells: Potential Application to Cancer Immunotherapy. Anti-Cancer Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 16(1), 30-37.

- Zykova, T. A., Zhu, F., Zhai, X., Ma, W. Y., Ermakova, S. P., Lee, K. W., Bode, A. M., Dong, Z. (2005). Resveratrol directly targets COX-2 to inhibit carcinogenesis. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 45(10), 842-851.

Hydroxyacetophenone

Other name: SymSave H

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:

Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.

3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:

When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.

- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.

- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.

Phosphatidylglycerol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Antioxidant

1. Definition Phosphatidylglycerol:

Phosphatidylglycerol is a type of phospholipid that is naturally found in the cell membranes of plants and animals. It is known for its moisturizing and protective properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Phosphatidylglycerol is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, phosphatidylglycerol has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals.

3. Usage Phosphatidylglycerol:

When using skincare products containing phosphatidylglycerol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Lee, S. B., & Kim, S. K. (2018). Phosphatidylglycerol delays the onset of senescence in H2O2-treated human dermal fibroblasts. International journal of molecular sciences, 19(7), 1986.

- Kim, S. K., Kim, S. Y., & Lee, S. B. (2019). Phosphatidylglycerol inhibits UVB-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts. International journal of molecular sciences, 20(21), 5364.

- Lee, S. B., Kim, S. Y., & Kim, S. K. (2017). Phosphatidylglycerol inhibits UVB-induced MMP-1 expression by suppressing the MAPK/AP-1 pathway in HaCaT cells. International journal of molecular sciences, 18(1), 179.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate:

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria. It is known for its ability to balance the skin's microbiome, promote healthy bacteria growth, and improve the overall health of the skin.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is commonly used in skincare products for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to strengthen the skin's natural defense mechanisms and improve its resilience against environmental stressors. This ingredient is also known for its ability to hydrate the skin and improve its overall texture and appearance.

3. Usage Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate:

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied to the skin both in the morning and evening as part of a regular skincare routine. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin over time.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., & Ko, H. C. (2015). Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Increases Collagen Expression and Inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 in Human Skin Fibroblasts. Annals of Dermatology, 27(1), 58–63. https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2015.27.1.58

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., & Ko, H. C. (2019). Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Suppresses Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells. Annals of Dermatology, 31(6), 647–652. https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2019.31.6.647

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Inhibits Inflammatory Reaction in Human Gingival Fibroblasts. Journal of Periodontal & Implant Science, 48(6), 379–387. https://doi.org/10.5051/jpis.2018.48.6.379

Saccharomyces/ Lysate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Saccharomyces/ Lysate:

Saccharomyces/ Lysate is a bio-fermented ingredient derived from yeast, specifically Saccharomyces cerevisiae. It is rich in amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Saccharomyces/ Lysate is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to hydrate, brighten, and improve the overall health of the skin. It is known for its anti-aging properties, as it helps to stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity. Additionally, Saccharomyces/ Lysate can help to strengthen the skin's natural barrier function, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Saccharomyces/ Lysate:

Saccharomyces/ Lysate is typically found in serums, creams, and masks. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To use, apply a small amount of product containing Saccharomyces/ Lysate to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. Follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day.

Precautions when using: While Saccharomyces/ Lysate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. Additionally, be cautious when using products containing Saccharomyces/ Lysate around the eye area, as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Kwon, H. H., Yoon, J. Y., & Park, S. Y. (2015). The use of Saccharomyces cerevisiae for cosmetic purposes. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 14(4), 308-315.

- Bae, J. Y., & Park, S. N. (2016). Evaluation of the anti-aging potential of Saccharomyces/ Lysate in human epidermal keratinocytes. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 67(3), 169-177.

- Lee, J. H., & Kim, J. H. (2018). Effects of Saccharomyces/ Lysate on skin hydration and barrier function in healthy adults. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 29(2), 143-147.

Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate

Function:

1. Definition Bis Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4 Dicarboxylate:

Bis Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4 Dicarboxylate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a colorless to pale yellow liquid with a mild, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Bis Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4 Dicarboxylate is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by providing hydration and smoothing out rough or dry patches. Additionally, it can enhance the spreadability of products and contribute to a luxurious feel upon application.

3. Usage Bis Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4 Dicarboxylate:

When using products containing Bis Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4 Dicarboxylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the body. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

- "Evaluation of the Skin Irritation Potential of Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018.

- "Formulation and Evaluation of a Moisturizing Cream Containing Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Carnosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Carnosine:

Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide composed of the amino acids beta-alanine and histidine. It is found in high concentrations in muscle tissues and the brain and is known for its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Carnosine is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging benefits. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress, which can lead to premature aging. Carnosine also has anti-inflammatory properties and can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Carnosine:

Carnosine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to use products containing Carnosine consistently to see the best results. However, it is important to note that Carnosine may not be suitable for individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to any of its components.

4. References:

- Niedzwiecki, A., & Rath, M. (2012). Carnosine: The protective, anti-aging peptide. Journal of Cell Communication and Signaling, 6(1), 63-68.

- Babizhayev, M. A., & Yegorov, Y. E. (2012). Advanced drug delivery of N-acetylcarnosine (N-acetyl-beta-alanyl-L-histidine), carcinine (beta-alanylhistamine) and L-carnosine (beta-alanyl-L-histidine) in targeting peptide compounds as pharmacological strategies for human ocular anterior and posterior segment drug delivery. Drug Development Research, 73(4), 143-169.

- Hipkiss, A. R. (2009). Carnosine and its possible roles in nutrition and health. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 57, 87-154.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Blue 1

Other name: Brillant blue FCF; Brilliant blue FCF; CI 42090; FD&C Blue 1 Aluminium Lake; FD&C Blue #1; Food Blue 2; Blue 1; Blue 1 Lake; Acid blue 9; Erioglaucine A; Acid Blue 9 Aluminum Lake

Function:

1. Definition Blue 1:

Blue 1, also known as FD&C Blue No. 1 or Brilliant Blue FCF, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to provide a blue color.

2. Use:

Blue 1 is primarily used as a colorant in various cosmetic products such as eyeshadows, lipsticks, nail polishes, and hair dyes. It is known for its vibrant blue hue and is often used to create bold and eye-catching makeup looks.

3. Usage Blue 1:

Blue 1 is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory bodies such as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States and the European Union. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to synthetic dyes like Blue 1, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of FD&C Blue No. 1. International Journal of Toxicology. 2002;21(Suppl 3):15-41.

- Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Accessed from: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics

- European Commission. CosIng Database. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/

Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (Ci 60730)

Function:

1. Definition Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (Ci 60730):

Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (Ci 60730) is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a violet or purple color to various products.

2. Use:

Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 is often used in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes to add a vibrant purple hue. It is also used in hair dyes and other personal care products to achieve desired color effects.

3. Usage Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (Ci 60730):

When using cosmetics containing Ext. D&C Violet No. 2, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid direct contact with the eyes and mucous membranes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2021). Color Additives Listed for Use in Cosmetics. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-listed-use-cosmetics

- Personal Care Products Council. (2021). Color Additives: Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (Ci 60730). https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/Color-Additives/ext-dc-violet-no-2-ci-60730

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2021). Safety Assessment of Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (Ci 60730). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/violet2_0.pdf