Full ingredients list Glow Clinical Skincare Lumibright ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil	Promotes Wound Healing Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Bentonite (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Kaolin (Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier)
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Maltodextrin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1 2		Bromelain (Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Lytic Agent)
1 2		Papain (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Lytic Agent)
1		Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Bulking Agent, Moisturising)	Anti Aging Good for dry skin
1		Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
2		Phytic Acid (Chelating Agent)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
3	B	Polysorbate 80 (Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1		Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (Chelating Agent)
5	B	Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil (Skin Conditioning)
1		Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1 3		Titanium Dioxide (Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying)	UV Protection Good for sensitive skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is rich in linoleic acid, which is known for its moisturizing and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Safflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, making it an excellent ingredient for moisturizing and nourishing the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like conditioners and hair masks.

3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Safflower seed oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using safflower seed oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70.

- Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne--results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-79.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Bentonite

Other name: Bentonite Clay; Gelwhite L

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Suspending Agent -Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Bentonite:

Bentonite is a type of clay derived from volcanic ash deposits and is known for its ability to absorb and remove toxins, impurities, and excess oil from the skin. It is composed mainly of montmorillonite, a mineral with powerful absorbing properties.

2. Use:

Bentonite is commonly used in cosmetics for its purifying and detoxifying properties. It is often found in facial masks, cleansers, and exfoliants to help unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin tone and texture. Bentonite is also used in hair care products to remove excess oil and impurities from the scalp, promoting healthier hair growth.

3. Usage Bentonite:

When using bentonite in cosmetics, it is important to mix it with water or other liquid ingredients to form a paste before applying it to the skin or hair. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before using bentonite products to check for any allergic reactions or irritation. Avoid using bentonite on broken or irritated skin, and always follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Chauhan, A., & Chauhan, P. (2019). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Brief Review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 9(3), 184-189.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Singh, M., & Singh, S. (2017). Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Review. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6(1), 295-299.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Kaolin

Other name: Kaolinite; China clay; Aluminum Silica; White Clay; Kaolin Clay

Function: Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Kaolin:

Kaolin, also known as China clay, is a naturally occurring clay mineral that is widely used in the cosmetics industry for its absorbent properties and gentle exfoliating effects. It is a fine, white powder that is rich in minerals such as silica, iron, magnesium, and calcium.

2. Use:

Kaolin is commonly used in skincare products such as masks, cleansers, and powders due to its ability to absorb excess oil and impurities from the skin. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types. Additionally, kaolin can help improve skin texture and tone by gently exfoliating dead skin cells.

3. Usage Kaolin:

Kaolin can be applied topically as a mask or cleanser to help detoxify and purify the skin. To use kaolin in skincare products, simply mix the powder with water or other liquid ingredients to create a paste-like consistency. Apply the mixture to clean, dry skin and leave it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. It is important to avoid getting kaolin powder into the eyes or inhaling it as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2012). Formulating with kaolin. Personal Care Magazine, 9(3), 25-28.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Lin, Y. C., & Lin, J. H. (2008). Kaolin and its industrial uses. Journal of the Chinese Ceramic Society, 36(6), 805-811.

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Maltodextrin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.

2. Use:

Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.

3. Usage Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.

4. References:

- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)

- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)

- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)

Bromelain

Function: Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Lytic Agent

1. Definition Bromelain:

Bromelain is a proteolytic enzyme derived from pineapple plants, specifically found in the stem and fruit. It is known for its ability to break down proteins and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and digestive properties.

2. Use:

Bromelain is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating and brightening properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. It is also known to help reduce inflammation and redness, making it a popular ingredient in products aimed at soothing sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Bromelain:

Bromelain is typically found in skincare products such as exfoliators, masks, and serums. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to patch test before using, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of bromelain and gradually increase as needed.

4. References:

- Chaiyana W, Punyoyai C. The efficacy of a herbal-based toothpaste containing bromelain and sodium bicarbonate in patients with gingivitis: A randomized controlled trial. J Int Soc Prev Community Dent. 2015;5(Suppl 2):S98-S104. doi:10.4103/2231-0762.165818

- Taussig SJ, Batkin S. Bromelain, the enzyme complex of pineapple (Ananas comosus) and its clinical application. An update. J Ethnopharmacol. 1988;22(2):191-203. doi:10.1016/0378-8741(88)90109-6

- Maurer HR. Bromelain: biochemistry, pharmacology and medical use. Cell Mol Life Sci. 2001;58(9):1234-1245. doi:10.1007/PL00000936

Papain

Other name: Papaya enzyme

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Lytic Agent

1. Definition Papain:

Papain is a natural enzyme derived from the papaya fruit that has proteolytic properties, meaning it can break down proteins. In cosmetics, papain is used as an exfoliant to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and promote a smoother, brighter complexion.

2. Use:

Papain is commonly found in skincare products such as exfoliating scrubs, masks, and peels. It works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be sloughed off more easily. This helps to reveal fresher, healthier skin underneath and can improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Papain:

When using skincare products containing papain, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Papain can be irritating to some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the entire face. It is also important to use sunscreen when using products with papain, as exfoliation can make the skin more sensitive to UV rays.

4. References:

- H. I. Maibach, R. Boisits, and J. A. W. Heaton. "Papain: A review." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 5, no. 4, 1981, pp. 417-422.

- L. R. Chaudhary, S. H. Hruska, and R. C. Curren. "Papain." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2007.

- S. A. Naveed, M. Mahmood, and S. A. Khan. "Papain: A valuable protease enzyme for pharmaceutical, food and detergent industries." Journal of Molecular Catalysis B: Enzymatic, vol. 125, 2016, pp. 65-77.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Bulking Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is an extract derived from soybean seeds, rich in proteins, amino acids, and antioxidants. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. It is often included in anti-aging products, such as serums, creams, and masks, to help boost collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract:

When using products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs. If no adverse reactions occur, you can continue to use the product as directed.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2016). Anti-aging effects of soy extract on human fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 305-313.

- Jung, E. M., An, B. S., Choi, J. H., & Jeung, E. B. (2014). Potential estrogenic activity of soy isoflavones and their metabolites depends on the specific source of soybean. Journal of Medicinal Food, 17(2), 254-261.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. S., Jeong, G. J., Lee, J. H., An, S. M., & Kim, Y. C. (2017). Skin protective effect of soy extract against UVB-induced skin aging in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Functional Foods, 31, 1-10.

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes

Other name: Safflower Oleosomes

Function:

1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes:

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes are natural, plant-derived lipid droplets found in the seeds of the safflower plant. These oleosomes are rich in triglycerides, phospholipids, and proteins, making them an excellent source of moisture and nourishment for the skin.

2. Use:

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes are commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for their moisturizing and emollient properties. They can help hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin barrier function, and enhance the delivery of active ingredients. Additionally, oleosomes have antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging.

3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes:

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens. When using products containing oleosomes, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is always best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- L. Baumann. (2009). "Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients." McGraw-Hill Education.

- S. B. Singh et al. (2016). "Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) Seed: A Potential Source of High-Quality Edible Oil and Biodiesel." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Phytic Acid

Other name: Inositol Hexaphosphate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Phytic Acid:

Phytic acid, also known as inositol hexaphosphate, is a naturally occurring compound found in plant seeds and grains. It is a powerful antioxidant and chelating agent that can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

2. Use:

Phytic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It can help to gently remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Additionally, phytic acid has been shown to have skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Phytic Acid:

When using products containing phytic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of phytic acid and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing phytic acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., Gaspar, L. R., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2006). Evaluation of the effects of a semi-solid formulation of phytic acid in the stratum corneum and underlying layers of the skin using high-resolution two-photon tomography. Skin Research and Technology, 12(2), 105–111.

- Schagen, S. K., & Zampeli, V. A. (2019). Phytic acid in skincare formulations. Cosmetics, 6(2), 29.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Polysorbate 80

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan Monooleate; Polysorbate 80; Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate

Function: Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 80:

Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic compound that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 80 is used in cosmetics to help ingredients mix together that would otherwise separate, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize and improve the texture of products like creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can act as a dispersing agent, helping to evenly distribute pigments in makeup products.

3. Usage Polysorbate 80:

When using cosmetics containing Polysorbate 80, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or reactions when using products with this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Lodeiro, P., Barros, M. A., & Schapoval, E. E. (2013). Evaluation of the in vitro cytotoxicity and in vivo anti-inflammatory effects of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug formulated in polysorbate 80-containing nanoemulsions. Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences, 16(4), 549-563.

- Gao, Z., & Li, Y. (2013). Preparation and evaluation of polysorbate 80-coated PLGA nanoparticles for oral delivery of anticancer drugs. Drug development and industrial pharmacy, 39(3), 499-506.

- Murali, S., & Bharath, S. (2014). Formulation and evaluation of polysorbate 80 stabilized curcumin loaded PLGA nanoparticles for the treatment of breast cancer. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(10), 4434-4444.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a multifunctional ingredient used in cosmetics as a chelating agent and preservative. It is a salt of glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, and diacetic acid.

2. Use:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is commonly used in cosmetic formulations to enhance the stability and efficacy of other ingredients. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, thereby extending the shelf life of the product. Additionally, it can also improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain formulations.

3. Usage Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic products. It is water-soluble and can be easily incorporated into various formulations such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and creams. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and effectiveness of the product.

4. References:

- "Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tetrasodium-glutamate-diacetate.

- Huang, Y., Zhang, Y., & Chen, X. (2018). "Application of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate in Cosmetics." Chemical Engineering Transactions, 64, 157-162.

- "Safety Assessment of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/tetrasodiumglutamatediacetate.pdf.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil

Other name: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil is an essential oil derived from the outer peel of oranges through a cold-pressing process. It is known for its sweet, citrusy aroma and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Orange peel oil is often found in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers due to its ability to promote a clear, radiant complexion. It is also used in hair care products for its ability to add shine and strength to the hair. Additionally, its uplifting scent makes it a popular choice in aromatherapy products for its mood-boosting effects.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil:

When using products containing Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, it is important to be cautious of potential skin sensitivities. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to ensure there is no adverse reaction. It is also important to avoid direct sunlight after applying products containing this essential oil, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- "Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil" in CosIng - European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. (https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=74866)

- "The effect of orange oil on the skin" by K. Manjula, S. S. Sravanthi, and P. G. M. Kumar in the International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research. (https://ijpsr.com/bft-article/the-effect-of-orange-oil-on-the-skin/?view=fulltext)

- "Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil: an essential oil with antimicrobial and antioxidant activities" by S. S. Dorman and S. G. Deans in the Flavour and Fragrance Journal. (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ffj.1220)

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot)

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot):

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia, commonly known as Bergamot, is a citrus fruit that is primarily grown in Southern Italy. The essential oil extracted from the peel of the fruit is widely used in cosmetics for its refreshing and uplifting aroma, as well as its skin-brightening and clarifying properties.

2. Use:

Bergamot essential oil is a popular ingredient in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers due to its antiseptic and balancing properties. It is known to help control excess oil production, reduce acne and blemishes, and promote a clear and radiant complexion. In hair care products, Bergamot oil is used to add shine, reduce dandruff, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot):

When using Bergamot essential oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can cause skin irritation and sensitivity when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products containing Bergamot oil to the skin to check for any adverse reactions. It is also advisable to avoid sun exposure after applying Bergamot oil topically, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays and potentially cause sunburn.

4. References:

- Rombola L, Amantea D, Russo R, Adornetto A, Berliocchi L, Tridico L, et al. (2014). Rational Basis for the Use of Bergamot Essential Oil in Complementary Medicine to Treat Chronic Pain. Mini Rev Med Chem. 14(2):182-92.

- Navarra M, Mannucci C, Delbò M, Calapai G. (2015). Citrus Bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application. Front Pharmacol. 6:36.

- Bagetta G, Morrone LA, Rombolà L, Amantea D, Russo R, Berliocchi L, et al. (2010). Neuropharmacology of the essential oil of bergamot. Fitoterapia. 81(6):453-61.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Titanium Dioxide

Other name: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying

1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:

Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.

2. Use:

Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.

3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:

When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.

- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.

- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.