Full ingredients list IsNtree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 4	B	Glycolic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
2 5	B	Potassium Hydroxide (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1		Castanea Crenata Shell Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Asiaticoside (Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Asiatic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
1		Madecassic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Madecassoside (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Portulaca Oleracea Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1		Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract (Skin Protecting)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1		Sucrose Stearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Hydroxyethylcellulose (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycolic Acid

Other name: Hydroxyacetic acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.

3. Usage Glycolic Acid:

When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.

See more: Unlocking the Power of Glycolic Acid in Skincare!!!

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Potassium Hydroxide

Other name: KOH; Potassium Hydrate; Potash lye

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Potassium Hydroxide:

Potassium Hydroxide, also known as caustic potash, is a strong alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.

2. Use:

Potassium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to regulate the pH levels of products, ensuring that they are gentle and non-irritating to the skin. It is also utilized as an emulsifying agent, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together to create stable and uniform formulations.

3. Usage Potassium Hydroxide:

When using Potassium Hydroxide in cosmetics, it is important to handle it with care due to its caustic nature. Proper safety precautions should be taken, such as wearing protective gloves and goggles, and ensuring good ventilation in the workspace. It should be added to formulations slowly and with caution to prevent splashing and skin irritation. Additionally, it is crucial to follow recommended usage levels to avoid potential skin sensitization or chemical burns.

4. References:

- "Potassium Hydroxide." Cosmetics Info, cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-hydroxide.

- "Potassium Hydroxide in Cosmetics." Truth In Aging, truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-hydroxide.

- "Safety Assessment of Potassium Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/potassium.pdf.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Castanea Crenata Shell Extract:

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract is an extract derived from the shells of the Castanea Crenata, also known as the Japanese chestnut tree. This extract is rich in antioxidants, tannins, and minerals, which have been shown to have various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals, which can cause premature aging. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Castanea Crenata Shell Extract:

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%, depending on the formulation and desired effects. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen for optimal results.

4. References:

- Yoon, J. Y., et al. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effects of Castanea crenata shell extract on human keratinocytes. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(4), 618-623.

- Kim, J. H., et al. (2016). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Castanea crenata shell extract in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Dermatological Science, 83(3), 159-165.

- Park, S. Y., et al. (2019). Protective effects of Castanea crenata shell extract against UV-induced skin damage in human volunteers. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 87-92.

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Asiaticoside

Function: Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Asiaticoside:

Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is a natural ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Asiaticoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles and promote hair growth.

3. Usage Asiaticoside:

When using products containing Asiaticoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Asiaticoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. Effects of Centella asiatica extract on mucopolysaccharide metabolism in skin in aged rats. Planta Med. 2009;75(6):689-695.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizenz P, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Adv Dermatol Allergol. 2013;30(1):46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Dhawan BN. Asiaticoside-induced elevation of antioxidant levels in healing wounds. Phytother Res. 1999;13(1):50-54.

Asiatic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Stabilising

1. Definition Asiatic Acid:

Asiatic acid is a triterpenoid compound found in plants such as Centella asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Asiatic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce inflammation, promote collagen production, and improve skin elasticity. This makes it an ideal ingredient for products targeting sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or those looking to combat signs of aging.

3. Usage Asiatic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Asiatic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Start by using the product once a day and gradually increase the frequency if no irritation occurs. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Asiatic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Lee JH, et al. (2018). Asiatic acid inhibits pulmonary inflammation induced by cigarette smoke.

- Bylka W, et al. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology.

- Kimura Y, et al. (2008). Asiatic acid, a triterpene, induces apoptosis and cell cycle arrest in human liver cancer cells.

Madecassic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Madecassic Acid:

Madecassic Acid is a triterpenoid compound derived from the medicinal plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help calm irritation and breakouts.

3. Usage Madecassic Acid:

When using products containing Madecassic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Start by using the product once every few days and gradually increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well. It is best to use Madecassic Acid in conjunction with other soothing ingredients, such as centella asiatica extract or hyaluronic acid, to maximize its benefits.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim HL, Lee MH, You YJ, Choi YJ, Park CW, Kim HC, Lee JY, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic inflammation in an atopic dermatitis-like murine model. Int Immunopharmacol. 2016 Nov;40:362-369. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2016.09.023. Epub 2016 Sep 26. PMID: 27685721.

- Kim D, Kim SH, Chang YJ, Kim J, Kim Y. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic airway inflammation in an ovalbumin-induced murine model of asthma. Int Immunopharmacol. 2019 Jan;66:294-301. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2018.11.003. Epub 2018 Nov 6. PMID: 30414514.

- Park MY, Kwon HJ, Sung MK. Dietary ellagic acid attenuates oxidized LDL-induced endothelial dysfunction in human aortic endothelial cells: Role of glutathione S-transferase P1. Food Chem Toxicol. 2013 May;55:100-6. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2013.01.040. Epub 2013 Feb 1. PMID: 23376370.

Madecassoside

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Madecassoside:

Madecassoside is a compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as gotu kola. It is a type of triterpenoid saponin that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to soothe and repair the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, madecassoside has been found to stimulate collagen production, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Madecassoside:

When using skincare products containing madecassoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using madecassoside products to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating madecassoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Boo YC, Hyun CG, et al. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 118(3), 511-516.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Maquart FX, Bellon G, Chaqour B, Wegrowski Y. (1999). Triterpenes from Centella asiatica stimulate extracellular matrix accumulation in rat experimental wounds. European Journal of Dermatology, 9(4), 289-296.

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Other name: Purslane Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Portulaca Oleracea Extract:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the common purslane plant, known for its high levels of antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and healing properties.

2. Use:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and nourishing benefits on the skin. It is known to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Additionally, its antioxidant properties help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Portulaca Oleracea Extract:

Portulaca Oleracea Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of 0.5-2% to provide the desired benefits without causing any irritation. To use products containing Portulaca Oleracea Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., Anti-inflammatory effect of Portulaca oleracea in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine. 2014; 42(6):1493-1507.

- Choi, J. H., Kim, D. W., Park, S. E., et al. Protective effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on DSS-induced murine colitis. International Immunopharmacology. 2019; 73:539-547.

- Lee, H. Y., Kim, S. W., Lee, G. H., et al. The effect of Portulaca oleracea extracts on UVB-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2018; 220:64-73.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract:

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, also known as Moutan or Tree Peony Root Extract, is derived from the root of the Paeonia suffruticosa plant. This extract is rich in antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds, and skin-brightening agents, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its various skincare benefits. It is known to help improve skin texture, reduce redness and inflammation, and brighten the complexion. Additionally, this extract has been found to have anti-aging properties, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract:

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract can be found in a wide range of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in formulations. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, simply apply products containing Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract to clean, dry skin as directed by the product instructions.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim GH. Evaluation of the Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-oxidant Effects of Paeonia suffruticosa Root Extract in Human Dermal Fibroblasts. Int J Mol Sci. 2015;16(3):6422-6435. doi:10.3390/ijms16036422

- Li Z, Li J, Ma H, et al. Paeonia suffruticosa Andr. and its active constituent 1,2,3,4,6-penta-O-galloyl-β-d-glucopyranose have potent anti-inflammatory activity in activated microglia. J Ethnopharmacol. 2018;211:285-294. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2017.08.015

- Kim JH, Kim YS, Song GY, Kim WH. Antiwrinkle effect of Paeonia suffruticosa. J Cosmet Sci. 2006;57(2):121-130.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is a modified form of phosphatidylcholine, a naturally occurring lipid found in cell membranes. It is typically derived from soybeans and undergoes a hydrogenation process to increase its stability and shelf life in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It helps to improve the texture and feel of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and hydrated. It is also known for its ability to enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and moisturizing formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is safe for topical use and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Lee, J. Y., Kim, Y. J., & Cho, Y. (2016). Effects of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine on the skin barrier. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 278-283.

- Tsuboi, T., Kondoh, T., Yagi, A., & Ogawa, H. (2000). Phospholipids in cosmetics. Journal of Oleo Science, 49(1), 1-13.

- Barel, A. O., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

Sucrose Stearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Sucrose Stearate:

Sucrose stearate is a natural ester derived from the combination of sucrose (sugar) and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Sucrose stearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together to create a stable and smooth product. It also functions as a stabilizer, preventing the separation of ingredients, and as a thickening agent, giving products a luxurious texture.

3. Usage Sucrose Stearate:

Sucrose stearate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in formulations. It is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may be more prone to irritation from sucrose stearate, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Sucrose Stearate" in Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sucrose-stearate

- "Sucrose Stearate" in The Eco Well. https://theecowell.com/ingredients/sucrose-stearate/

- "Sucrose Stearate" in Truth in Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sucrose-stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Other name: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.

3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.

4. References:

- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)

- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.