Full ingredients list Isomers All-In-One Mesmer-Eyez ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone (Antioxidant)
1		Dipeptide 2 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Glycosaminoglycans (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming)
1		Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt (Opacifying)
1	A	Yeast Amino Acids (Humectant)
1		Darutoside (Skin Conditioning)
1		N Hydroxysuccinimide (Skin Conditioning)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Chrysin (Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Tricalcium Phosphate (Masking, Fragrance, Abrasive, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent)
1		Morinda Citrifolia Extract (Astringent)
1		Caffeine (Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1		Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking)
		Rosmarinyl Glucoside (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer (Bulking Agent)
1		Caffeoyl Glucoside (Sufactant)
1		Gallyl Glucoside (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1		Carnosine (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent)
1 3	B	Steareth 20 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1		Polysilicone 11 (Film Forming)
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Hydroxyacetophenone (Antioxidant)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
3	B	Polysorbate 80 (Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone:

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is a flavonoid derived from citrus fruits, particularly found in the peel of oranges and lemons. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is primarily used in skincare products for its ability to reduce puffiness and dark circles around the eyes. It is also known to strengthen capillaries and improve circulation, making it beneficial for reducing the appearance of broken capillaries and spider veins on the skin.

3. Usage Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone:

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is typically found in eye creams, serums, and treatments targeting under-eye concerns. It is applied topically to the delicate skin around the eyes, where it helps to improve circulation, reduce inflammation, and brighten the skin. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the product manufacturer to avoid any potential adverse effects.

4. References:

- Bagherani, N., & Smoller, B. R. (2015). Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone for the Management of Periorbital Hyperpigmentation. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 8(6), 50–53.

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. H., & Ahn, S. G. (2013). Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone Inhibits Lipopolysaccharide-Induced Apoptosis in Human Endothelial Cells. The Journal of Dermatology, 40(3), 202–207.

- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., ... & Fisher, G. J. (2004). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.

Dipeptide 2

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Dipeptide 2:

Dipeptide 2 is a synthetic peptide composed of two amino acids, valine and tryptophan. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Dipeptide 2 is known for its ability to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes by improving microcirculation and reducing the accumulation of pigments in the skin. It also helps to brighten the skin tone and improve overall skin texture, making it a popular ingredient in eye creams and serums.

3. Usage Dipeptide 2:

Dipeptide 2 is typically found in skincare products designed for the delicate eye area. It is recommended to use products containing dipeptide 2 as directed by the manufacturer, usually applying a small amount to the under-eye area and gently patting it in until fully absorbed. It is important to avoid getting the product in the eyes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, D. S., Kim, C. G., Kim, D. S., Kim, J. H., Kim, K. H., ... & Kim, K. J. (2014). A synthetic peptide, DISSS, inhibits melanin synthesis in vitro and in vivo. Pigment cell & melanoma research, 27(5), 728-731.

- Lee, J. H., Lee, J. H., Kim, K. H., Kim, D. S., Kim, K. J., Kim, D. S., ... & Kim, S. Y. (2013). A synthetic peptide, DISSS, inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish. International journal of molecular medicine, 31(4), 855-860.

- Choi, J. H., Kim, K. H., Park, H. J., Kim, S. Y., & Kim, K. J. (2015). A synthetic peptide, DISSS, inhibits melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish. Experimental dermatology, 24(3), 216-218.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7

Other name: Palmitoyl-GQPR; Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, also known as Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, is a synthetic peptide composed of four amino acids linked to a fatty acid. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 is known for its ability to help reduce inflammation and improve skin elasticity. It works by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This peptide is often included in anti-aging creams and serums to help improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7:

When using skincare products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged in gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently for best results, as the effects of the peptide may take time to become noticeable. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Srinivas, R., & Srinivas, G. (2018). Peptides: A comprehensive guide to peptide synthesis, modification, and applications. CRC Press.

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2012). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(4), 299-306.

- Kim, S. H., & Kim, K. H. (2014). Efficacy and safety of Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the treatment of facial wrinkles. Journal of Dermatological Science, 76(1), 8-14.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4

Other name: Matrixyl; Palmitoyl Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4; Palmitoyl-KTTKS; Palmitoyl pentapeptide; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-5

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4:

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, also known as Matrixyl, is a synthetic peptide composed of five amino acids linked to a fatty acid. It is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. By promoting collagen synthesis, this peptide helps to firm and plump the skin, resulting in a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4:

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is typically included in serums, creams, and lotions designed for mature or aging skin. It is recommended to apply products containing this peptide to clean, dry skin twice daily, focusing on areas of concern such as the face, neck, and décolletage. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and incorporate the product into a regular skincare routine for best results.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Darlenski, R., & Surber, C. (2013). Topical delivery of cosmetic actives: an overview. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(5), 245-260.

- Varani, J., Dame, M. K., Rittie, L., Fligiel, S. E., Kang, S., Fisher, G. J., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (2006). Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin. The American journal of pathology, 168(6), 1861-1868.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38

Other name: Matrixyl Synthe’6

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked to a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is known for its ability to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin. This helps to improve skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration, leading to a more youthful appearance. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and treatments designed to target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

When using products containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product consistently as part of a skincare routine to see optimal results. However, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2017). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 30(5), e12463.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not. Dermatologic Clinics, 25(3), 357-364.

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, sunscreens, and hair care products. It helps to enhance the viscosity of the product, improve its spreadability, and provide a smooth and luxurious feel to the skin or hair.

3. Usage Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Polymer Chemistry: The Basic Concepts" by Paul C. Hiemenz and Timothy P. Lodge

- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked together with a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which helps improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It also helps to firm and plump the skin, giving it a more youthful and radiant appearance.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide consistently for several weeks to see noticeable results. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the product manufacturer and to patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Sonti S, Makino ET, Garruto J, et al. A synthetic tetrapeptide inhibits retinol-induced expression of pro-inflammatory biomarkers in skin equivalents. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(6):694-700.

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M, Kobayashi Y. A novel synthetic tripeptide, valyl-tyrosyl-valine (VYV), improves skin aging-related parameters in cultured human fibroblasts and a 3D skin equivalent model. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016;15(4):457-463.

- Lintner K, Peschard O. Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000;22(4):207-218.

Glycosaminoglycans

Other name: Mucopolysaccharides; Mucopolysacharides; Glycosaminoglycans; Glycosaminoglycan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming

1. Definition Glycosaminoglycans:

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are complex carbohydrates that are naturally found in the skin and connective tissues of the body. They are known for their ability to retain moisture and promote skin hydration, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycosaminoglycans are commonly used in cosmetics for their hydrating and anti-aging properties. They help to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. GAGs also have anti-inflammatory properties, making them beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Glycosaminoglycans:

When using skincare products containing glycosaminoglycans, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. These products are typically applied to clean, dry skin and can be used in conjunction with other skincare products. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Saravanan, S., Madhavan, V., & Sathishkumar, K. (2018). Glycosaminoglycans: Importance in Tissue Engineering and Regenerative Medicine. Journal of Stem Cell Research & Therapy, 8(1), 1-6.

- Lupo, M. P. (2014). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 27(5), 317-324.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt

Function: Opacifying

1. Definition Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt:

Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt is a synthetic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the brightness and luminosity of the skin. It belongs to the class of fluorescent brighteners, which are chemicals that absorb UV light and emit visible light, giving the skin a radiant and glowing appearance.

2. Use:

Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt is often added to cosmetics such as foundations, powders, and highlighters to create a luminous and radiant finish. It can help to blur imperfections, even out skin tone, and give the skin a youthful and healthy glow. This ingredient is particularly popular in products designed for photography and special events, as it can enhance the appearance of the skin under different lighting conditions.

3. Usage Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt:

When using cosmetics containing Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product evenly onto clean, moisturized skin using a makeup brush or sponge. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to avoid contact with the eyes and to wash off the product thoroughly at the end of the day to prevent any irritation.

4. References:

- S. R. Deshmukh, S. P. Pawar, S. R. Chaudhari, S. D. Kulkarni, and S. S. Patil, "Synthesis and Characterization of Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt for Cosmetic Applications," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, 2019.

- M. S. Kim, J. H. Lee, and S. J. Park, "Effect of Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt on Skin Luminosity in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 36, no. 4, 2014.

- A. R. Patel, K. P. Shah, and P. R. Patel, "Safety and Efficacy of Nylon 12 Fluorescent Brightener 230 Salt in Cosmetics: A Review," Journal of Dermatological Science, vol. 28, no. 2, 2017.

Yeast Amino Acids

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Yeast Amino Acids:

Yeast amino acids are amino acids derived from yeast extract, which is a byproduct of the fermentation process of yeast. These amino acids are essential building blocks of proteins and play a crucial role in maintaining the health and vitality of the skin.

2. Use:

Yeast amino acids are commonly used in cosmetics for their skin conditioning and moisturizing properties. They help to improve the skin's texture, firmness, and elasticity, making it look smoother and more youthful. Yeast amino acids also have antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Yeast Amino Acids:

Yeast amino acids can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, and masks. They are typically added to formulations at a concentration of 1-5% to provide optimal benefits for the skin. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and effectiveness of the product.

4. References:

- Park, S. Y., Kim, D. S., Kang, S., & Park, S. (2018). Yeast extract stimulates the expression of type I collagen and hyaluronic acid in primary human keratinocytes. Annals of dermatology, 30(3), 263-266.

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, J. Y., Kim, M. H., & Lim, S. T. (2012). Comparison of the effects of yeast extract and hyaluronic acid on inflammatory mediators: a double-blind, randomized study. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 11(1), 52-58.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. H., & Ahn, Y. S. (2016). Anti-aging effects of yeast extract on skin. Journal of cosmetic science, 67(2), 93-102.

Darutoside

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Darutoside:

Darutoside is a bioactive ingredient derived from the plant Siegesbeckia orientalis, commonly known as St. Paul's Wort. It is a natural compound with anti-inflammatory and skin regenerating properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Darutoside is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to promote skin healing, reduce inflammation, and improve skin firmness and elasticity. It is often included in anti-aging formulations to target fine lines and wrinkles, as well as in products designed to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Darutoside:

Darutoside is typically found in creams, serums, and lotions designed for daily use. It can be applied directly to the skin, focusing on areas of concern such as wrinkles or dry patches. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using Darutoside for the first time to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. Effects of a cosmetic containing the bioactive ingredient darutoside on skin elasticity and fine wrinkles. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(3):891-897. doi:10.1111/jocd.12852

- Park J, Kim D, Lee H. Anti-inflammatory effects of darutoside in UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes. J Dermatol Sci. 2019;93(3):134-141. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2018.12.008

- Lee J, Kim S, Kim M, Kim D. Protective effects of darutoside against UVB-induced damage in human dermal fibroblasts. Int J Mol Sci. 2020;21(2):492. doi:10.3390/ijms21020492

N Hydroxysuccinimide

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition N Hydroxysuccinimide:

N-Hydroxysuccinimide (NHS) is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics as a coupling agent and stabilizer. It is a white crystalline powder that is water-soluble and odorless.

2. Use:

N-Hydroxysuccinimide is primarily used in cosmetics as a cross-linking agent to improve the stability and efficacy of active ingredients. It is often added to formulations to enhance the delivery of ingredients into the skin, making them more effective.

3. Usage N Hydroxysuccinimide:

When using products containing N-Hydroxysuccinimide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is typically used in small concentrations (around 0.1-1%) and should be incorporated into formulations during the manufacturing process. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing N-Hydroxysuccinimide to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, J., & Lee, J. (2017). A review on N-hydroxysuccinimide and its ester derivatives. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 56, 1-11.

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Lhiaubet-Vallet, V., & Bosca, F. (2013). Photoprotection in the UVB and UVA ranges by sunscreens containing a combination of three UV filters. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 123, 29-35.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Chrysin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Chrysin:

Chrysin is a naturally occurring flavonoid found in various plants, honey, and propolis. It is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Chrysin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce inflammation, protect against free radicals, and promote collagen production. It is often included in eye creams and serums to help reduce dark circles and puffiness around the eyes. Chrysin is also believed to have skin brightening properties, making it a sought-after ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Chrysin:

When using skincare products containing Chrysin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any allergic reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the usage to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Seo, J. M., Kim, K. M., Kim, C. D., Lim, J. S., & Lee, S. J. (2011). Chrysin suppresses mast cell-mediated allergic inflammation: involvement of calcium, caspase-1 and nuclear factor-κB. Toxicology and applied pharmacology, 254(1), 42-49.

- Kuo, M. L., Huang, T. S., & Lin, J. K. (2002). Curcumin, an antioxidant and anti-tumor promoter, induces apoptosis in human leukemia cells. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA)-Molecular Basis of Disease, 1475(2), 278-288.

- Weng, Z., Patel, A. B., Panagiotidou, S., Theoharides, T. C. (2015). The novel flavone tetramethoxyluteolin is a potent inhibitor of human mast cells. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 135(4), AB177.

Tricalcium Phosphate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Abrasive, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Tricalcium Phosphate:

Tricalcium Phosphate, also known as calcium phosphate tribasic, is a white powder that is commonly used in cosmetics as a mineral filler and thickening agent. It is derived from natural sources such as rock phosphate and bone ash, and it is considered safe for use in various cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Tricalcium Phosphate is primarily used in cosmetics as a bulking agent, opacifying agent, and abrasive. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance. Additionally, it can also provide a mattifying effect in certain formulations, making it a popular ingredient in makeup products such as powders and foundations.

3. Usage Tricalcium Phosphate:

When using Tricalcium Phosphate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and dosage levels provided by the manufacturer. Excessive use of this ingredient may lead to skin irritation or sensitivity in some individuals, so it is advisable to conduct a patch test before applying products containing Tricalcium Phosphate to the skin. It is also recommended to avoid inhaling the powder form of this ingredient, as it may cause respiratory irritation.

4. References:

- "Tricalcium Phosphate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tricalcium-phosphate.

- "Calcium Phosphate Tribasic." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/calcium-phosphate-tribasic.

- "Safety Assessment of Tricalcium Phosphate as Used in Cosmetics." Personal Care Products Council, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/sites/default/files/ctfa_pcpa_-_tricalcium_phosphate.pdf.

Morinda Citrifolia Extract

Function: Astringent

1. Definition Morinda Citrifolia Extract:

Morinda Citrifolia Extract, also known as noni extract, is derived from the fruit of the Morinda citrifolia tree. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Morinda Citrifolia Extract is known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetics. It helps to soothe and hydrate the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote overall skin health.

3. Usage Morinda Citrifolia Extract:

Morinda Citrifolia Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient. When using products containing Morinda Citrifolia Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the product instructions for best results and to avoid overuse, as this can lead to skin sensitivity.

4. References:

- Singh, D., Rokaya, P. R., & Rawat, G. S. (2017). Medicinal plants of the genus Morinda (Rubiaceae) - A review of their ethnomedicinal uses and pharmacological activities. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 198, 107-133.

- West, B. J., & Jensen, C. J. (2007). The potential health benefits of noni juice: A review of human intervention studies. Foods, 6(2), 1-13.

- Palu, A. K., Kim, A. H., & West, B. J. (2008). The noni fruit (Morinda citrifolia L.): A review of agricultural research, nutritional and therapeutic properties. Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 21(1), 97-109.

Caffeine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Caffeine:

Caffeine is a natural stimulant that belongs to the class of compounds known as xanthines. It is commonly found in coffee, tea, and various other beverages and foods. In cosmetics, caffeine is often used for its stimulating and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Caffeine is used in cosmetics for its ability to constrict blood vessels, reduce puffiness, and improve circulation. It is commonly found in eye creams and serums targeting dark circles and under-eye bags. Caffeine can also help to smooth and tighten the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.

3. Usage Caffeine:

When using cosmetics containing caffeine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, caffeine-infused products are applied topically to the skin, focusing on areas of concern such as the under-eye area or areas prone to cellulite. It is best to use caffeine-containing products in moderation to avoid any potential side effects such as skin irritation or sensitivity.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2012). Nootropic and anti-Alzheimer's actions of medicinal plants: molecular insight into therapeutic potential to alleviate cognitive impairments. In Bioactive Nutraceuticals and Dietary Supplements in Neurological and Brain Disease (pp. 605-619). Academic Press.

- Costa, R., Rodrigues, I., Guardão, L., Lima, J. L., & Fernandes, E. (2012). Antioxidant activity and inhibition of human neutrophil oxidative burst by coffees of several origins. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 50(5), 1435-1441.

- Albasini, A., Zech, K., & Taddei, C. (2012). Use of caffeine in cosmetic compositions. U.S. Patent No. 8,119,371.

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking

1. Definition Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract:

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the Albizia Julibrissin tree, also known as the Persian silk tree. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to reduce the appearance of dark spots, improve skin tone, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. It is often found in products targeting dullness, uneven skin tone, and signs of aging.

3. Usage Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract:

When using products containing Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This extract is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to use sunscreen when using products with Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, as it may increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., & Kim, J. (2016). Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects of Albizia julibrissin bark extract on human keratinocytes. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 189, 287-293.

- Park, J., Kim, J., & Kim, J. (2018). Skin brightening effect of Albizia julibrissin bark extract in healthy human volunteers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 784-789.

- Lee, S., Lee, J., & Kim, J. (2019). Protective effects of Albizia julibrissin bark extract against UV-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 190, 50-56.

Rosmarinyl Glucoside

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Rosmarinyl Glucoside:

Rosmarinyl Glucoside is a natural compound derived from rosemary extract and glucose. It is known for its antioxidant properties and skin-soothing benefits in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Rosmarinyl Glucoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. It also helps to improve skin tone and texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Rosmarinyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Rosmarinyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Girona J, et al. (2016). Antioxidant activity of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L.) essential oil and its hepatoprotective potential. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26814259/

- Kim YJ, et al. (2018). The protective effects of rosmarinic acid against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress in human dermal fibroblasts. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29302586/

- Goulas V, et al. (2020). Rosmarinyl glucoside from Rosmarinus officinalis: Antioxidant potential and capacity to potentiate the antioxidant response of human keratinocytes to UVB radiation. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814619318101

Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer

Function: Bulking Agent

1. Definition Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer:

Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer is a type of polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent. It is a crosslinked version of polyvinyl alcohol, which is known for its ability to create a film on the skin or hair, providing a smooth and even texture.

2. Use:

Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and performance of products. It is often found in makeup, skincare, and hair care products to help create a smooth and even application. It can also help to improve the longevity of products by providing a barrier against moisture and oil.

3. Usage Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, J. H., Kim, M. J., Kim, J. Y., Park, G. H., & Kim, J. K. (2014). Safety profile of polyvinyl alcohol crosspolymer as a cosmetic ingredient. International journal of toxicology, 33(6), 483-491.

- Almeida, I. F., Bahia, M. F., & Costa, P. C. (2012). Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) hydrogels: review of their biomedical applications and future trends. Materials Science and Engineering: C, 33(5), 2829-2848.

- Gohil, R. M., Bhattacharya, A., Ray, S., & Ghosh, A. (2017). Polyvinyl alcohol–borax crosslinked hydrogel films for controlled release of ofloxacin. Polymer Bulletin, 74(7), 2595-2614.

Caffeoyl Glucoside

Other name: 1-Caffeoyl-beta-D-glucose

Function: Sufactant

1. Definition Caffeoyl Glucoside:

Caffeoyl Glucoside is a natural compound found in various plants, including coffee, fruits, and vegetables. It is a type of phenolic compound that possesses antioxidant properties and is known for its potential benefits in skincare.

2. Use:

Caffeoyl Glucoside is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and skincare products.

3. Usage Caffeoyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Caffeoyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. As with any skincare ingredient, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine, especially if you have any existing skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Maurya, A. K., Singh, M., Dubey, V., & Srivastava, S. (2017). Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of caffeoyl derivatives. Natural Product Research, 31(6), 688-694.

- Park, S. Y., Jin, M. L., Kim, Y. H., & Kim, Y. H. (2015). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of caffeoyl glucoside from the leaves of Pyrus pyrifolia. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 16(1), 10717-10730.

- Kim, S. J., Kim, M. C., Um, J. Y., & Hong, S. H. (2007). The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of caffeoyl glucosides from Viburnum dilatatum Thunb. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 30(12), 1439-1447.

Gallyl Glucoside

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Gallyl Glucoside:

Gallyl Glucoside is a natural compound derived from plants, particularly from the gallnut of oak trees. It is a potent antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental stressors and UV damage.

2. Use:

Gallyl Glucoside is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-protecting properties. It helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, while also promoting a more even skin tone and texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory effects, making it beneficial for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gallyl Glucoside:

Gallyl Glucoside is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions designed for anti-aging and skin protection. It can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, followed by a moisturizer. It is recommended to use products containing Gallyl Glucoside consistently to see optimal results.

4. References:

- Kim, J. et al. (2016). Protective effects of Gallyl Glucoside on UV-induced skin damage in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Dermatological Science, 82(3), 161-168.

- Park, S. et al. (2018). Anti-aging effects of Gallyl Glucoside on human skin fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(2), 89-95.

- Lee, H. et al. (2020). The role of Gallyl Glucoside in skin protection and rejuvenation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 42(4), 301-307.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Carnosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Carnosine:

Carnosine is a naturally occurring dipeptide composed of the amino acids beta-alanine and histidine. It is found in high concentrations in muscle tissues and the brain and is known for its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Carnosine is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging benefits. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress, which can lead to premature aging. Carnosine also has anti-inflammatory properties and can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Carnosine:

Carnosine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to use products containing Carnosine consistently to see the best results. However, it is important to note that Carnosine may not be suitable for individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to any of its components.

4. References:

- Niedzwiecki, A., & Rath, M. (2012). Carnosine: The protective, anti-aging peptide. Journal of Cell Communication and Signaling, 6(1), 63-68.

- Babizhayev, M. A., & Yegorov, Y. E. (2012). Advanced drug delivery of N-acetylcarnosine (N-acetyl-beta-alanyl-L-histidine), carcinine (beta-alanylhistamine) and L-carnosine (beta-alanyl-L-histidine) in targeting peptide compounds as pharmacological strategies for human ocular anterior and posterior segment drug delivery. Drug Development Research, 73(4), 143-169.

- Hipkiss, A. R. (2009). Carnosine and its possible roles in nutrition and health. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 57, 87-154.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is a modified form of cyclodextrin, a group of compounds derived from starch. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and encapsulating agent due to its ability to improve the solubility and stability of poorly soluble ingredients.

2. Use:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is primarily used in cosmetics to enhance the delivery of active ingredients, improve the stability of formulations, and increase the solubility of hydrophobic compounds. It can also help to mask unpleasant odors and flavors in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

When using Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% in formulations, depending on the specific application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7304052/

- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28212917/

- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144861717302385

Steareth 20

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Steareth 20:

Steareth-20 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Steareth-20 is primarily used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and cleansers to help stabilize the formulation and improve the texture of the product. It also helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin.

3. Usage Steareth 20:

When using products containing Steareth-20, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Steareth-20, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: Avoid using products with Steareth-20 if you have known allergies to ethoxylated ingredients or if you experience any irritation or adverse reactions. Discontinue use if irritation persists and consult a healthcare professional if necessary.

4. References:

- "Steareth-20" in Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/steareth-20

- "Polyethylene Glycol Stearates" in Personal Care Council, https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/polyethylene-glycol-stearates/

- "Steareth-20" in Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/steareth-20

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Polysilicone 11

Function: Film Forming

1. Definition Polysilicone 11:

Polysilicone 11 is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and emollient. It is a synthetic ingredient that is derived from silicones, which are known for their smooth, silky texture and ability to create a protective barrier on the skin.

2. Use:

Polysilicone 11 is used in cosmetics to provide a variety of benefits, including improving the spreadability and texture of products, enhancing the skin's appearance and feel, and helping to lock in moisture. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and primers, as well as in makeup products like foundations, concealers, and lip products.

3. Usage Polysilicone 11:

When using products containing Polysilicone 11, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to avoid getting products containing Polysilicone 11 in the eyes or mouth, and to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Lefebvre MA, Pham DM, Bouwstra JA, Bodde HE, Spies F, Verhoef JC, Junginger HE. Relationship between skin permeability and corneocyte size according to anatomic site, age, and sex in man. J Invest Dermatol. 1991 Mar;96(3):459-63. doi: 10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470194. PMID: 1991269.

- Zillich OV, Schweiggert-Weisz U, Eisner P, Kerscher M. Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jun;37(3):455-64. doi: 10.1111/ics.12204. Epub 2015 Apr 24. PMID: 25899978.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin-care products. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005 May;52(5):854-65. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2004.06.030. PMID: 15858533.

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Hydroxyacetophenone

Other name: SymSave H

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:

Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.

3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:

When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.

- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.

- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Polysorbate 80

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan Monooleate; Polysorbate 80; Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate

Function: Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 80:

Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic compound that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 80 is used in cosmetics to help ingredients mix together that would otherwise separate, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize and improve the texture of products like creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can act as a dispersing agent, helping to evenly distribute pigments in makeup products.

3. Usage Polysorbate 80:

When using cosmetics containing Polysorbate 80, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or reactions when using products with this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Lodeiro, P., Barros, M. A., & Schapoval, E. E. (2013). Evaluation of the in vitro cytotoxicity and in vivo anti-inflammatory effects of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug formulated in polysorbate 80-containing nanoemulsions. Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences, 16(4), 549-563.

- Gao, Z., & Li, Y. (2013). Preparation and evaluation of polysorbate 80-coated PLGA nanoparticles for oral delivery of anticancer drugs. Drug development and industrial pharmacy, 39(3), 499-506.

- Murali, S., & Bharath, S. (2014). Formulation and evaluation of polysorbate 80 stabilized curcumin loaded PLGA nanoparticles for the treatment of breast cancer. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(10), 4434-4444.