Full ingredients list Karine Joncas Hydra-Defense +C Cream

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	B	Isopropyl Palmitate (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
6	A	Cyclomethicone (Solvent, Emollient, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)	Silicone
1		Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Bulking Agent)
1		Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract (Antioxidant, Bleaching)
1		Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)	Good for dry skin
1		Marrubium Vulgare Extract (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1 2	A	Silica (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent)
1		Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
2	B	Sodium Polyacrylate (Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Isopropyl Palmitate

Other name: IPP

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It is derived from isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid, a fatty acid found in palm oil.

2. Use:

Isopropyl Palmitate is used in cosmetics for its ability to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often found in lotions, creams, and makeup products to improve texture and spreadability. Additionally, it can help to enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare formulations.

3. Usage Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it may cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to patch test products containing this ingredient before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products with Isopropyl Palmitate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-palmitate

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/isopropyl-palmitate.html

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/isopropyl-palmitate/

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

Other name: Olea Europaea Fruit; Olive Fruit

Function:

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is a natural oil extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and body lotions. Olive oil helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive or acne-prone skin may want to use it cautiously. Olive oil can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients in DIY skincare recipes.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- P. Konstantinidou, et al. (2010). "In vivo nutrigenomic effects of virgin olive oil polyphenols within the frame of the Mediterranean diet: a randomized controlled trial." The FASEB Journal.

- A. Ghanbari, et al. (2012). "Olive oil and cancer." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.

Cyclomethicone

Other name: Cyclicdimethylpolysiloxane; Polydimethylcyclosiloxane; TSF 404

Function: Solvent, Emollient, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cyclomethicone:

Cyclomethicone is a clear, odorless silicone-based liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and solvent. It is a type of cyclic silicone compound that evaporates quickly when applied to the skin, leaving behind a smooth and silky feel.

2. Use:

Cyclomethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including skincare, haircare, and makeup. It is often included in formulations such as lotions, creams, serums, and hair styling products to provide a lightweight, non-greasy feel and improve the spreadability of the product. Cyclomethicone helps to enhance the texture of the product and can also act as a carrier for other active ingredients, allowing them to penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Cyclomethicone:

When using products containing Cyclomethicone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Cyclomethicone to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to avoid contact with the eyes and to keep the product out of reach of children.

4. References:

- Loden M, Wessman W. The influence of a cream containing 20% glycerin and its vehicle on skin barrier properties. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2001;23(2):115-9.

- Kligman AM. An overview of cosmeceuticals. In: Draelos ZD, editor. Cosmeceuticals. 1st ed. Philadelphia: Saunders; 2005. p. 1-7.

- Draelos ZD. Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not. Dermatol Clin. 2007;25(2):215-7.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Other name: CETIOL CC

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Dicaprylyl Carbonate:

Dicaprylyl Carbonate is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and carbonic acid. Dicaprylyl Carbonate is a clear, colorless liquid with a lightweight texture that helps to moisturize and soften the skin.

2. Use:

Dicaprylyl Carbonate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and hair care products. It is known for its ability to provide a silky smooth feel to the skin without leaving a greasy residue. Dicaprylyl Carbonate also helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhance the overall texture.

3. Usage Dicaprylyl Carbonate:

Dicaprylyl Carbonate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-20% in cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is often included in products designed for dry or dehydrated skin. When using products containing Dicaprylyl Carbonate, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, discontinue use if irritation occurs.

4. References:

- "Dicaprylyl Carbonate" CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicaprylyl-carbonate

- "Dicaprylyl Carbonate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dicaprylyl-carbonate/

- "Dicaprylyl Carbonate" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dicaprylyl-carbonate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Synthetic Fluorphlogopite:

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, also known as synthetic mica, is a mineral-derived synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a replacement for natural mica. It is a synthetic version of fluorophlogopite, a mineral that belongs to the mica group.

2. Use:

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is primarily used in cosmetics for its shimmering and light-reflecting properties. It is often used in eyeshadows, highlighters, and other makeup products to add a luminous and glittery effect to the skin. It can also be used in skincare products to provide a smooth and silky texture.

3. Usage Synthetic Fluorphlogopite:

When using products containing Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to mica or other minerals. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to avoid any adverse reactions. Additionally, as with any cosmetic product, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage to ensure the product's effectiveness and longevity.

4. References:

- "Synthetic Fluorphlogopite" by Cosmetics Info

- "What Is Synthetic Fluorphlogopite?" by The Derm Review

- "Understanding the Role of Synthetic Fluorphlogopite in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Other name: Cogon Grass; Woolly Grass; Imperata cylindrica

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is a botanical extract derived from the roots of the Imperata Cylindrica plant, also known as cogongrass or blady grass. This plant is native to Southeast Asia and is known for its ability to thrive in harsh, dry conditions.

2. Use:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is known to help improve skin hydration by increasing the water content in the skin cells, making it an ideal ingredient for dry or dehydrated skin. Additionally, it is believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help soothe and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract:

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it is used to provide long-lasting hydration and improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is often recommended for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as it can help restore moisture balance and reduce irritation. When using products containing Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Kim, Y. (2014). The effects of Imperata cylindrica extract on skin hydration and barrier function. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(2), 119-123.

- Lee, J., Kim, S., & Kim, Y. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Imperata cylindrica extract in vitro and in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(6), 594-599.

- Lim, H., & Kim, Y. (2018). Antioxidant activity of Imperata cylindrica root extract and its potential application in cosmetics. Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 36(1), 23-29.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Function: Antioxidant, Bleaching

1. Definition Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract:

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, also known as Kakadu Plum extract, is derived from the Kakadu Plum tree native to Australia. This extract is rich in vitamin C, antioxidants, and other beneficial compounds that can help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

2. Use:

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation, which can lead to premature aging and damage. Additionally, the vitamin C in Kakadu Plum extract can help brighten the skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote collagen production for firmer, more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract:

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations to provide antioxidant benefits without causing irritation. When using products containing Kakadu Plum extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143.

- Dhanik, J., Arya, R., & Chandra, R. (2016). A review on Terminalia chebula. International Journal of Research in Ayurveda and Pharmacy, 7(1), 1-4.

- Mukherjee, P. K., Maity, N., Nema, N. K., & Sarkar, B. K. (2011). Phytochemical and therapeutic potential of cucumber. Fitoterapia, 82(3), 285-291.

Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

1. Definition Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract:

Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the peach tree. It is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Peach fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peach extract also has soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract:

Peach fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing peach extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., Kim, H. E., Hwang, J. K., & Lee, N. H. (2011). The effects of peach and apricot extracts on UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine, 27(1), 32-39.

- Park, K. M., You, J. S., Lee, H. Y., Baek, E. J., Lee, J. S., & Hwang, J. K. (2013). Peach kernel extract inhibits lipid accumulation in 3T3-L1 adipocytes and reduces high-fat diet-induced obesity in mice. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 53, 59-67.

- Kim, J. E., Kim, H. E., Hwang, J. K., & Lee, N. H. (2011). The effects of peach and apricot extracts on UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine, 27(1), 32-39.

Marrubium Vulgare Extract

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Marrubium Vulgare Extract:

Marrubium Vulgare Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Marrubium Vulgare plant, also known as white horehound. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Marrubium Vulgare Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and protect the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, its antioxidant properties can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Marrubium Vulgare Extract:

Marrubium Vulgare Extract can be found in various skincare products such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of around 1-5%. To use products containing Marrubium Vulgare Extract, simply apply them to clean skin as directed by the product instructions. It is important to patch test any new skincare product containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Saeidnia, S., & Gohari, A. R. (2013). Pharmacological and therapeutic effects of Marrubium vulgare. Pharmacognosy reviews, 7(14), 188–194. https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.120522

- Elansary, H. O., Szopa, A., & Kubica, P. (2019). Elicitation, an Effective Strategy for the Biotechnological Production of Bioactive High-Added Value Compounds in Plant Cell Factories: The Case of Scrophularia striata L. and Marrubium vulgare L. Frontiers in pharmacology, 10, 746. https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2019.00746

- Lichius, J. J., Muth, C., & Weidner, C. (2019). Marrubium vulgare L. (Lamiaceae): A European Ethnomedicinal Plant with Substantial Pharmacological Studies. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 245, 112177. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2019.112177

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Silica

Other name: Silicon dioxide; Silicic anhydride; Siliceous earth

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Silica:

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.

2. Use:

Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.

3. Usage Silica:

When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.

4. References:

- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.

- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.

- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.

Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Other name: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.

3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Sodium Polyacrylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient

1. Definition Sodium Polyacrylate:

Sodium Polyacrylate is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-absorbent material that can hold up to 300 times its weight in water, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for its ability to provide hydration and improve the texture of the product.

2. Use:

Sodium Polyacrylate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of the product, and enhance its overall performance. In addition, Sodium Polyacrylate can also help to stabilize emulsions, prevent the separation of ingredients, and increase the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Polyacrylate:

When using products containing Sodium Polyacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Polyacrylates in Cosmetics." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylates.

- "Sodium Polyacrylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-polyacrylate.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylates.pdf.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.