Full ingredients list Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 (US)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	B	Isododecane (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient)
1	B	Cetearyl Olivate (Hair Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1		Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming, Hair Fixing)
1	A	Sorbitan Olivate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1		Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1		Hydroxyacetophenone (Antioxidant)
1	A	Cyclodextrin (Chelating Agent, Absorbent)
1		Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Sodium Polyaspartate (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Adhesive)
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1		Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance)
5 6		Retinal (Skin Conditioning)
2	A	Alumina (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent)
1	A	Isostearic Acid (Binding Agent, Binding, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate (Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Polyhydroxystearic Acid (Emulsifying, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1		Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract
1		Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract (Masking, Astringent)
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
1	A	Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning)
3	B	Polysorbate 60 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Sorbitan Isostearate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1		Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Smoothing)
1		Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract (Masking, Perfuming)
4 5		Coumarin (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
		Red 4
1 3		Titanium Dioxide (Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying)	UV Protection Good for sensitive skin

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Isododecane

Other name: 2-Methylundecane

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Emollient

1. Definition Isododecane:

Isododecane is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent and emollient. It is a hydrocarbon derived from petroleum and is often found in products such as foundations, primers, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

Isododecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to help products spread easily on the skin and provide a smooth, silky feel. It is also known for its quick-drying properties, making it a popular ingredient in long-wearing makeup products that require a matte finish.

3. Usage Isododecane:

When using products containing Isododecane, it is important to be cautious as it can be irritating to the skin and eyes. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs. Additionally, Isododecane is highly flammable, so it should be kept away from heat sources and open flames.

4. References:

- Lodep, N., & Decker, C. (2017). Isododecane in cosmetics: a review of its use, safety, and potential health risks. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 153-162.

- Smith, A., & Johnson, B. (2018). The role of Isododecane in modern cosmetics formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(2), 89-97.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of Isododecane in cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Isododecane.pdf

Cetearyl Olivate

Other name: Sorbitan Olivate; OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Olivate is primarily used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics to create stable emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.

3. Usage Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/cetearyl-olivate/

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Eco Well. https://www.theecowell.com/single-post/2018/09/12/Cetearyl-Olivate

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by Truth In Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-olivate

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, sunscreens, and hair care products. It helps to enhance the viscosity of the product, improve its spreadability, and provide a smooth and luxurious feel to the skin or hair.

3. Usage Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Polymer Chemistry: The Basic Concepts" by Paul C. Hiemenz and Timothy P. Lodge

- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Film Forming, Hair Fixing

1. Definition Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer:

Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer is a copolymer consisting of polypropylene glycol (PPG) and stearyl methacrylate dimethyl ammonium chloride (SMDI). It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity controlling agent.

2. Use:

Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer is primarily used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent to create a smooth and even film on the skin or hair. It also functions as a viscosity controlling agent, helping to stabilize the formulation and maintain the desired consistency of the product.

3. Usage Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer:

Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including hair care products such as styling gels, mousses, and hairsprays, as well as in skincare products like lotions, creams, and sunscreens. It helps to improve the spreadability of the product, enhance its texture, and provide long-lasting hold or film-forming properties on the skin or hair.

Precautions: While Ppg 12/ Smdi Copolymer is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergies. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (2021). Ppg-12/Smdi Copolymer. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ppg-12smdi-copolymer

- Personal Care Council. (2021). Ppg-12/Smdi Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/ppg-12smdi-copolymer/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Ppg-12/Smdi Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/ppg-12smdi-copolymer

Sorbitan Olivate

Other name: OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:

Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.

- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.

- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other name: Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; (Eau D'Hamamelis) Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.

3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.

- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer

- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317

Hydroxyacetophenone

Other name: SymSave H

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:

Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.

3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:

When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.

- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.

- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.

Cyclodextrin

Function: Chelating Agent, Absorbent

1. Definition Cyclodextrin:

Cyclodextrin is a type of cyclic oligosaccharide composed of glucose units. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a complexing agent to improve the stability, solubility, and bioavailability of various active ingredients.

2. Use:

Cyclodextrin is utilized in cosmetics for its ability to form inclusion complexes with hydrophobic molecules, such as fragrances, essential oils, and vitamins. By encapsulating these ingredients within the cavity of the cyclodextrin molecule, their volatility and reactivity can be reduced, leading to improved performance and longevity in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Cyclodextrin:

When using cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to consider the compatibility of the complexing agent with other ingredients in the formulation. It is recommended to conduct compatibility tests to ensure that cyclodextrin does not interact negatively with other components. Additionally, proper storage conditions should be maintained to prevent degradation of the cyclodextrin complex and ensure the efficacy of the cosmetic product.

4. References:

- Loftsson, T., & Brewster, M. E. (1996). Pharmaceutical applications of cyclodextrins. 1. Drug solubilization and stabilization. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 85(10), 1017-1025.

- Trotta, F., & Debernardi, F. (2017). Cyclodextrin-based nanosponges as drug carriers. Beilstein Journal of Organic Chemistry, 13, 1116-1131.

- Jansook, P., Ogawa, N., & Loftsson, T. (2018). Cyclodextrins: structure, physicochemical properties and pharmaceutical applications. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 535(1-2), 272-284.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Other name: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable derivative of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin. It is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that is more stable and less irritating than pure Vitamin C.

2. Use:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is used in cosmetics for its various benefits to the skin. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. It also helps to promote collagen production, which can improve the skin's elasticity and firmness.

3. Usage Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is best applied to clean, dry skin in the morning and evening before moisturizer. It is important to wear sunscreen during the day when using products containing Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

Sodium Polyaspartate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Polyaspartate:

Sodium Polyaspartate is a water-soluble biopolymer that is derived from aspartic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a moisturizing and anti-aging ingredient due to its ability to retain water and improve skin elasticity.

2. Use:

Sodium Polyaspartate is often included in cosmetic formulations such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams to provide hydration and improve the overall appearance of the skin. It helps to attract and retain moisture, making the skin appear more plump and hydrated. Additionally, it has been shown to have antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Sodium Polyaspartate:

When using products containing Sodium Polyaspartate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, it is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is important to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs. As with any new skincare ingredient, a patch test is recommended before using it on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- G. B. Naik, S. K. Koli, P. V. Kshirsagar, S. S. Kadam, "Sodium Polyaspartate: A Review on Synthesis, Properties and Applications," International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 2019.

- A. M. El-Nahas, H. A. Abdel-Rahman, M. A. El-Sheikh, "Evaluation of the efficiency of sodium polyaspartate as a moisturizing agent in cosmetic formulations," Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020.

- M. C. Gomes, L. M. G. Antunes, A. M. F. R. P. B. Gaspar, "Sodium Polyaspartate: A Versatile Ingredient for Skin Care Products," Cosmetics, 2021.

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Function: Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Adhesive

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose:

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC) is a synthetic compound derived from cellulose that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and film-former. It is a water-soluble polymer that helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

HPMC is widely used in cosmetics for its ability to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as lotions, creams, and gels. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases. Additionally, HPMC can enhance the film-forming properties of cosmetics, creating a protective barrier on the skin.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose:

When using products containing HPMC, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products with HPMC to their entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Kim, S., et al. (2017). Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose as a Potential Carrier in Drug Delivery Systems: The Unique Features of Its Surface Activity. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 106(6), 1956-1963.

- Lopes, M., et al. (2019). Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose/Cashew Gum Blends as Potential Carriers for Drug Delivery Systems. Carbohydrate Polymers, 216, 1-9.

- Ribeiro, L., et al. (2020). Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose-Based Hydrogels for Cosmetics: Formulation and Characterization. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 42(1), 89-98.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Other name: VC-IP; Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate; Vitamin C Tetraisopalmitate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.

2. Use:

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its anti-aging benefits, including reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, boosting collagen production, and protecting the skin from environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution.

3. Usage Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions, and can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning. It is recommended to use products containing Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in the morning to help protect the skin throughout the day. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to patch test before using to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. Published 2017 Aug 12. doi:10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17. Published 2017 Jul.

Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance

1. Definition Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil:

Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the carrot plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Carrot seed oil is known for its nourishing and rejuvenating properties, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetics. It is commonly used in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Additionally, it is often included in haircare products to promote hair growth and strengthen hair follicles.

3. Usage Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil:

Carrot seed oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to creams, lotions, and serums to enhance their nourishing properties. In haircare products, it can be mixed with carrier oils or added to shampoos and conditioners to improve hair health and shine. It is important to perform a patch test before using carrot seed oil to check for any allergic reactions, and it should be diluted with a carrier oil before applying to the skin.

4. References:

- Prakash, B., & Gupta, S. (2005). Therapeutic uses of Daucus carota (Carrot) seeds. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 4(1), 58-60.

- Al-Snafi, A. E. (2016). The pharmacological activities of Daucus carota-A review. IOSR Journal of Pharmacy, 6(10), 42-50.

- Kaur, G., & Kaur, R. (2017). Carrot seed oil: A review on its composition and properties. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6(3), 2208-2212.

Retinal

Other name: Retinaldehyde; Vitamin A aldehyde

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinal:

Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, is a form of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It is a precursor to retinoic acid, a compound that is known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote collagen production.

2. Use:

Retinal is often used in cosmetics to address various skin concerns, including signs of aging, uneven skin tone, and acne. It is a potent ingredient that can help to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin by promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. Retinal is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors.

3. Usage Retinal:

When using skincare products containing retinal, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Retinal can be a potent ingredient, so it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use as tolerated. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using retinal, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: Some individuals may experience mild irritation or sensitivity when using products containing retinal. It is important to monitor the skin for any signs of irritation and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating retinal into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or are pregnant.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

Alumina

Other name: Aluminium oxide; Corundum

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Alumina:

Alumina, also known as aluminum oxide, is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used in cosmetics for its abrasive and absorbent properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often found in skincare products such as exfoliants, masks, and powders.

2. Use:

Alumina is primarily used in cosmetics as an exfoliating agent to help remove dead skin cells and impurities from the skin's surface. It can help to unclog pores, improve skin texture, and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion. Alumina is also used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, absorbent, and opacifying agent to help improve the texture and performance of various products.

3. Usage Alumina:

When using cosmetics containing alumina, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Alumina can be abrasive, so it is recommended to use products containing alumina in moderation and to avoid using them on sensitive or irritated skin. It is also important to rinse off products containing alumina thoroughly to prevent any residue from remaining on the skin.

4. References:

- "Aluminum Oxide." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/aluminum-oxide.

- "Aluminum Oxide." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/aluminum-oxide.

- "Alumina." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/alumina.

Isostearic Acid

Other name: Isooctadecanoic acid; 16-Methylheptadecanoic acid

Function: Binding Agent, Binding, Emulsifying

1. Definition Isostearic Acid:

Isostearic acid is a type of fatty acid derived from the hydrogenation of oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier due to its ability to improve the texture and consistency of products.

2. Use:

Isostearic acid is often used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide hydration and create a smooth, silky feel on the skin. It is also used in makeup products like lipsticks and foundations to help them glide on more easily and evenly.

3. Usage Isostearic Acid:

When using products containing isostearic acid, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with isostearic acid into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Isostearic Acid" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isostearic-acid)

- "Isostearic Acid" by Truth in Aging (https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isostearic-acid)

- "Isostearic Acid in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine (https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/31115/isostearic-acid-in-cosmetics)

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate

Function: Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate is a synthetic compound derived from glycerin and ricinoleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to create stable and uniform formulations. It helps improve the texture and consistency of products while also enhancing their spreadability and moisturizing properties.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also advisable to avoid direct contact with the eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate" - Cosmetics Info. (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate)

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate" - Truth in Aging. (https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate)

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate" - The Derm Review. (https://thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate/)

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Function: Emulsifying, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It is derived from stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats.

2. Use:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a stabilizer to prevent the separation of ingredients in formulations. Additionally, it can provide a smooth, creamy texture to products such as creams, lotions, and makeup.

3. Usage Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any other cosmetic ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. However, it is always advisable to conduct a patch test before using products containing Polyhydroxystearic Acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyhydroxystearic-acid)

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine (https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/10410/polyhydroxystearic-acid-in-cosmetics)

- "Safety Assessment of Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyhydroxystearic%20acid.pdf)

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Function:

1. Definition Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the Japanese Honeysuckle plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and soothe the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, this extract is rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging.

3. Usage Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, applied to clean skin before moisturizer. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Kim, S. S., Oh, T. H., & Kim, S. K. (2006). Lonicera japonica Thunb. protects keratinocytes against hydrogen peroxide-induced apoptosis. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 104(2-3), 276-281.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Lee, J. S. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effect of Lonicera japonica in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Korean Medicine, 36(3), 88-97.

- Zhang, Y. J., Huang, Z. Q., & Zhang, Y. (2019). Lonicera japonica Thunb: ethnopharmacology, phytochemistry and pharmacology of an important traditional Chinese medicine. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 245, 112158.

Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Function: Masking, Astringent

1. Definition Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the honeysuckle plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning and antioxidant benefits. It helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that can help to protect the skin from environmental aggressors.

3. Usage Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, look for products that list Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract as one of the main ingredients. Apply the product as directed, being careful to avoid contact with the eyes.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., et al. (2016). Anti-inflammatory activity of Lonicera japonica flower is related to inhibition of NF-kappaB activation through reducing I-kappaBalpha degradation in RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 177, 1-8.

- Park, E. J., et al. (2011). Anti-inflammatory activity of herbal medicines: inhibition of nitric oxide production and tumor necrosis factor-alpha secretion in an activated macrophage-like cell line. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine, 39(5), 943-958.

- Shin, T. Y., et al. (2000). Anti-allergic effects of Lonicera japonica Thunb. In vivo and in vitro. Inflammation Research, 49(5), 254-260.

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil:

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, also known as cloudberry seed oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Rubus chamaemorus plant. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. This oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, making it beneficial for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil:

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and facial oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other oils or ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. When using products containing this oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is recommended to store products containing Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil in a cool, dark place to prolong their shelf life.

4. References:

- Górnaś P, Rudzińska M. Segregation of oil fractions from seeds of Rubus chamaemorus L. and their chemical composition. Food Chem. 2016;196:133-40.

- Kallio H, Yang B, Peippo P. Effects of different origins and harvesting time on vitamin C, tocopherols, and tocotrienols in cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) fruits. J Agric Food Chem. 2002;50(13): 3764-9.

- Raudsepp P, Kaldmäe H, Kikas A. Influence of berry harvesting time and drying temperature on the quality of cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) powder. Proc Estonian Acad Sci. 2015;64(1): 112-9.

Polysorbate 60

Other name: Tween 60; POE (20) Sorbitan monostearate; Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 60:

Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.

3. Usage Polysorbate 60:

When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Sorbitan Isostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Isostearate:

Sorbitan Isostearate is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and isostearic acid. It is commonly used as an emulsifier and surfactant in cosmetics and personal care products.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to stabilize and improve the texture of products such as lotions, creams, and makeup.

3. Usage Sorbitan Isostearate:

Sorbitan Isostearate is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used in accordance with regulations and guidelines. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but as with any ingredient, there is a potential for sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Sorbitan Isostearate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.

4. References:

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-isostearate

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sorbitan-isostearate

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/sorbitan-isostearate/

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Smoothing

1. Definition Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract:

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the Vanilla Planifolia orchid. This extract is known for its sweet and comforting aroma, as well as its skin-soothing and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its fragrance and skin benefits. It is often added to skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide a pleasant scent and to help hydrate and nourish the skin. Additionally, the antioxidant properties of this extract can help protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging.

3. Usage Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to use caution. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Patel, S., & Goyal, A. (2012). Vanilla: the king of flavors. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 52(2), 364-371.

- Meher, B. R., & Pai, K. (2015). Formulation and evaluation of vanilla extract gel. International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 7(3), 370-373.

- Sagar, N. A., Pareek, S., & Sharma, S. (2013). Vanilla planifolia: an orchid yielding natural vanillin. Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 7(23), 1674-1681.

Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract

Function: Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract:

Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract, also known as Tonka Bean Extract, is derived from the seeds of the Dipteryx odorata tree native to South America. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its sweet, warm, and vanilla-like fragrance.

2. Use:

Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient. Its rich scent adds depth and warmth to perfumes, lotions, and other personal care products. It is often used to create luxurious and exotic scents that evoke feelings of comfort and relaxation.

3. Usage Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract:

When using Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for safe usage. Due to its potent fragrance, it is typically used in small concentrations to avoid overpowering the product. It is also important to perform patch tests before using products containing this extract to check for any potential skin sensitivities or allergies.

4. References:

- Pino, J. A., Marbot, R., & Fuentes, V. (2001). Volatile constituents of tonka bean. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 13(2), 105-107.

- Costa, R., & Rodrigues, F. (2012). Dipteryx odorata (Aubl.) Willd. and Dipteryx alata Vogel. In: Wild Plants, Mushrooms and Nuts: Functional Food Properties and Applications (pp. 105-116). Springer, New York, NY.

- Souza, M. C., Siani, A. C., Ramos, M. F. S., Menezes-de-Lima Jr, O., Henriques, M. G. M. O., & Rezende, C. M. (2004). Evaluation of anti-inflammatory and antinociceptive activities of Dipteryx alata Vogel in rats and mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 94(2-3), 275-283.

Coumarin

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Coumarin:

Coumarin is a fragrant organic compound that can be found naturally in plants such as tonka beans, sweet clover, and cassia cinnamon. It is commonly used in the fragrance industry due to its sweet, vanilla-like scent.

2. Use:

Coumarin is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, particularly in perfumes, colognes, and lotions. Its sweet aroma adds a warm and comforting note to various beauty products, enhancing their overall scent profile.

3. Usage Coumarin:

When using cosmetics containing coumarin, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to this compound. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of coumarin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with coumarin extensively, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- European Commission Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. (2016). Opinion on Coumarin. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_199.pdf

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2006). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Coumarin. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/coumarin.pdf

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2018). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=310.545

Red 4

Function:

Titanium Dioxide

Other name: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying

1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:

Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.

2. Use:

Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.

3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:

When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.

- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.

- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.