Ingredients Michael Todd Organic Lemon AHA DMAE Toner

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Gluconolactone (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant)	Anti Aging
1		Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract (Astringent)
1 4	B	Glycolic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1		Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract	Acne fighting
1		Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)
1		Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract (Keratolytic)
1		Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder (Abrasive)
2 4	B	Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract (Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
1		Tartaric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
6		Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant)	Bad for sensitive skin Acne fighting
3	B	Polysorbate 85 (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1		Vegetable Glycerin
1		Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel)
1		Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil
1		Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent, Refreshing)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1 4	B	Malic Acid (Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
		Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate (Emollient)
1 3		Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice

Gluconolactone

Other name: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant

1. Definition Gluconolactone:

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.

2. Use:

Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gluconolactone:

When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract

Function: Astringent

1. Definition Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract:

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from cranberries, which are rich in antioxidants and vitamins. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Cranberry fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to nourish and hydrate the skin. It is also known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, cranberry extract can help to brighten and even out the skin tone, making it a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations.

3. Usage Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract:

Cranberry fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, masks, and cleansers. When using products containing cranberry extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to store products containing cranberry extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Kulling SE, Rawel HM. Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)–a review on the characteristic components and potential health effects. Planta Med. 2008;74(13):1625-34. doi: 10.1055/s-2008-1084864.

- Ngo SN, Williams DB, Cobiac L, Head RJ. Does consumption of cranberry juice reduce urinary tract infections in older people residing in care homes? A systematic review and meta-analysis. Clin Interv Aging. 2015;10:687-93. doi: 10.2147/CIA.S81721.

- Basu A, Rhone M, Lyons TJ. Berries: emerging impact on cardiovascular health. Nutr Rev. 2010;68(3):168-77. doi: 10.1111/j.1753-4887.2010.00273.x.

Glycolic Acid

Other name: Hydroxyacetic acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.

3. Usage Glycolic Acid:

When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.

See more: Unlocking the Power of Glycolic Acid in Skincare!!!

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract

Function:

1. Definition Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark of the black willow tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help reduce inflammation, control oil production, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is often found in products targeted towards acne-prone or sensitive skin due to its calming and purifying effects.

3. Usage Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract:

When using products containing Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advised to use sunscreen when using products with this ingredient, as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2013). Medicinal Plants: Phytochemistry, Pharmacology and Therapeutics. CRC Press.

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Ghassemi, M. R., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). Rhamnus cathartica L. (Buckthorn) Bark Extract: Cosmetic and Dermatologic Applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 6(2), 39–44.

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

1. Definition Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract:

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the sugar cane plant. It is rich in glycolic acid, minerals, and vitamins, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Sugar Cane Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. Additionally, it can help to brighten and even out the skin tone, resulting in a more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract:

Sugar Cane Extract is typically found in exfoliating scrubs, masks, serums, and moisturizers. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging to avoid over-exfoliating the skin, which can lead to irritation and sensitivity. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage as needed.

Precautions: While Sugar Cane Extract is generally considered safe for most skin types, individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or redness. It is always a good idea to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sugar Cane Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is important to use sunscreen when using products with exfoliating ingredients to protect the skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Sharma, N., & Gupta, A. (2016). Saccharum officinarum (Sugarcane): A comprehensive review. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 10(19), 153–159. https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.194040

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., & Gianeti, M. D. (2015). Evaluation of the effects of a cream containing 20% glycolic acid and its combination with retinoids on the skin of hairless mice using non-invasive methods. Skin Research and Technology, 21(2), 167–173. https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.12186

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract

Function: Keratolytic

1. Definition Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract:

Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract is derived from the sap of the Sugar Maple tree, scientifically known as Acer Saccharum. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Sugar Maple Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, exfoliating, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract:

Sugar Maple Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and exfoliants. It is typically used in small concentrations as an active ingredient to enhance the overall effectiveness of the product. When using products containing Sugar Maple Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Zhang, J., Wang, Z., & Hu, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Acer saccharum L. extract. Journal of Functional Foods, 52, 415-423.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, D. S., & Kang, S. (2017). Anti-aging effects of Acer saccharum extract on human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(2), 160-166.

- Chen, Y., & Chen, J. (2016). Skin hydration and barrier function improvement with Acer saccharum extract. Journal of Dermatological Science, 83(3), 198-204.

Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder

Function: Abrasive

1. Definition Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder:

Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder, also known as Acai Berry Powder, is derived from the fruit of the Acai palm tree native to the Amazon rainforest. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-nourishing properties.

2. Use:

Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder is commonly used in cosmetics to promote skin health and vitality. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and masks due to its high antioxidant content, which helps protect the skin from environmental damage and reduce signs of aging. Additionally, the vitamins and minerals in Acai Berry Powder nourish and hydrate the skin, leaving it looking radiant and youthful.

3. Usage Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder:

When using cosmetics containing Euterpe Oleracea Pulp Powder, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin as directed, taking care to avoid contact with the eyes. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Saraf, S., & Ashwini, K. (2010). Acai Berry: A valuable source of bioactive compounds. Journal of Functional Foods, 2(3), 287-293.

- Schauss, A. G., Wu, X., Prior, R. L., Ou, B., Huang, D., Owens, J., ... & Shanbrom, E. (2006). Antioxidant capacity and other bioactivities of the freeze-dried Amazonian palm berry, Euterpe oleraceae Mart. (Acai). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 54(22), 8604-8610.

- Lichtenthaler, R., Rodrigues, R. B., Maia, J. G., Papagiannopoulos, M., Fabricius, H., & Marx, F. (2005). Total oxidant scavenging capacities of Euterpe oleracea Mart. (Acai) fruits. International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition, 56(1), 53-64.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the sweet orange fruit. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Orange fruit extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks for its ability to improve skin tone and texture. It can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging. Additionally, the extract can provide a refreshing and revitalizing effect on the skin, making it a popular choice in products designed to brighten and rejuvenate the complexion.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess how your skin responds. It is also advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products with orange fruit extract, as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 57, 225-232.

- Kaur, G., et al. (2014). Skin lightening and anti-aging effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract: A randomized controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 218-224.

- Ribeiro, A. S., et al. (2018). Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract as a natural antioxidant in cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(4), 370-376.

Tartaric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Tartaric Acid:

Tartaric acid is a naturally occurring organic acid found in many plants, particularly grapes. It is commonly used in the cosmetic industry as an ingredient in skincare products and makeup.

2. Use:

Tartaric acid is used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture of the skin. It is often found in facial peels, masks, and anti-aging products.

3. Usage Tartaric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing tartaric acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Tartaric acid can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, so it is important to use sunscreen when using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Katsarou A, Gortzi O, Mantzourani I, et al. Antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of selected grape pomace extracts—An in vitro study. Antioxidants. 2019;8(7):191. doi:10.3390/antiox8070191

- Del Pozo-Acebo L, Martínez-Sanz M, Lizarraga D, et al. Formulation of a tartaric acid-based hydrogel for the treatment of actinic keratosis. Pharmaceutics. 2019;11(9):451. doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics11090451

- Chaudhari SP, Tamhankar BM, Sonawane KB, et al. Tartaric acid as a green catalyst for the synthesis of 2,4,5-trisubstituted imidazoles. Synth Commun. 2019;49(14):1767-1774. doi:10.1080/00397911.2019.1630254

Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil

Other name: melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil; melaleuca alternifolia oil; tea tree leaf oil; tea tree essential oil

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:

Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the leaves of the Tea Tree plant. It is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Tea Tree Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to treat various skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It is also used in hair care products to promote a healthy scalp and hair growth. Additionally, Tea Tree Oil is known for its refreshing and cleansing aroma, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:

When using Tea Tree Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Tea Tree Oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children.

4. References:

- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.

- Hammer, K. A., Carson, C. F., & Riley, T. V. (2012). Antifungal activity of the components of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 95(4), 853-860.

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784-790.

Polysorbate 85

Other name: Tween 85; POE (20) Sorbitan Trioleate; PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate; Crillet 45

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polysorbate 85:

Polysorbate 85 is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 85 is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to create a stable and smooth consistency. It helps to improve the texture of the product and enhance its overall feel on the skin.

3. Usage Polysorbate 85:

When using products containing Polysorbate 85, it is important to be aware of any potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or redness when using products with this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before full application. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- Saini, R. K., Saini, S., & Roy, S. (2016). Emulsifiers in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 6(4), 196-204.

- Gupta, A., & Bhardwaj, A. (2019). Polysorbates: A versatile class of non-ionic surfactants. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 10(8), 3556-3563.

- Babu, R. J., & Parthasarathy, G. (2011). Formulation and evaluation of topical gel of diclofenac sodium using different grades of Polysorbate. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(4), 1661-1665.

Vegetable Glycerin

Function:

1. Definition Vegetable Glycerin:

Vegetable Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a clear, odorless liquid derived from plant oils such as coconut, palm, or soy. It is a natural humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Vegetable Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and emollient. It helps to hydrate the skin by drawing moisture from the air and locking it into the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. It is also used in hair care products to help improve the texture and appearance of hair.

3. Usage Vegetable Glycerin:

Vegetable Glycerin can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and hair conditioners. It is generally safe to use on all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. It is best to use products containing Vegetable Glycerin as directed on the packaging to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Sharma, R., & Mahajan, V. K. (2018). Role of humectants in cosmetic products. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 9(4), 244–249. https://doi.org/10.4103/idoj.IDOJ_265_17

- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. In Cosmeceuticals, 3rd Edition (pp. 25-43). Elsevier. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-802005-1.00003-7

- Burdock, G. A. (2005). Encyclopedia of Food and Color Additives (Vol. 1). CRC Press.

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel)

Other name: hamamelis; hamanelis; hamamelis virginiana; Witch Hazel

Function:

1. Definition Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel):

Hamamelis Virginiana, commonly known as Witch Hazel, is a plant native to North America that has been used for centuries for its medicinal properties. Witch Hazel extract is derived from the leaves and bark of the plant and is known for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Witch Hazel is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to tighten and tone the skin, reduce inflammation, and minimize the appearance of pores. It is often found in toners, cleansers, and moisturizers for its soothing and clarifying effects on the skin. Witch Hazel is also used in hair care products to help balance oil production and promote a healthy scalp.

3. Usage Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel):

Witch Hazel can be applied topically to the skin using a cotton pad or as an ingredient in skincare products. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is recommended to do a patch test before using it on the face or body to check for any allergic reactions. Witch Hazel should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine: The Definitive Home Reference Guide to 550 Key Herbs with all their Uses as Remedies for Common Ailments. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Duke, James A., and Mary Jo Bogenschutz-Godwin. Handbook of Medicinal Herbs, Second Edition. CRC Press, 2002.

- Reuter, J., et al. "Investigations on the anti-inflammatory activity of a herbal drug combination of stinging nettle herb, couch grass root and witch hazel leaves." Phytomedicine 10.8 (2003): 700-708.

Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil:

Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil is a natural essential oil extracted from the peel of lemons. It is known for its fresh, citrusy aroma and various skincare benefits.

2. Use:

Lemon oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent and detoxifying properties. It is often added to skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers to help cleanse and brighten the skin. Lemon oil is also used in hair care products to promote scalp health and add shine to the hair.

3. Usage Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil:

When using Lemon Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before using any product containing Lemon Oil to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Lemon Oil should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- Tisserand, R., Young, R. (2014). "Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals." Churchill Livingstone.

- Baser, K. H. C., Buchbauer, G. (2010). "Handbook of Essential Oils: Science, Technology, and Applications." CRC Press.

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent, Refreshing

1. Definition Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract:

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the bilberry plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have been shown to have various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Bilberry extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radical damage and premature aging. It also has anti-inflammatory and astringent properties, making it beneficial for soothing and toning the skin. Additionally, bilberry extract is known to improve skin texture and promote a more even skin tone.

3. Usage Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract:

Bilberry extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing bilberry extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with bilberry extract regularly as part of a skincare routine for optimal results.

4. References:

- Kawaii, S., Tomono, Y., Katase, E., and Ogawa, K. (2000). Antiproliferative activity of the main constituents from Phyllanthus emblica. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 23(11), 1340-1343.

- Jang, D. S., Cuendet, M., Hawthorne, M. E., Parnell, L. D., and Mehta, R. G. (2003). Peonidin 3-glucoside, a polyphenol from Vaccinium myrtillus, inhibits UVB-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT keratinocytes. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 26(10), 1404-1408.

- Martz, R. M., and Glickman, R. D. (1999). Bilberry fruit extract for night vision. A pilot study. Journal of Medicinal Food, 2(1), 47-50.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Malic Acid

Function: Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Malic Acid:

Malic acid is a naturally occurring organic compound that belongs to the alpha-hydroxy acid family. It is found in various fruits, such as apples, grapes, and cherries, and is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Malic acid is often used in cosmetics as an exfoliant to help remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and promote cell turnover. It can also help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin, leaving it looking smoother and more radiant.

3. Usage Malic Acid:

When using products containing malic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of malic acid and gradually increase the frequency of use as tolerated by the skin. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing malic acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: Individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or redness when using products containing malic acid. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with malic acid on a larger area of the skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Hwang, S. W., Oh, D. J., Lee, D., Kim, J. S., & Park, S. W. (2017). Efficacy and safety of superficial chemical peeling in treatment of active acne vulgaris. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 16(4), 508-513.

- Draelos, Z. D., & Baumann, L. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Berman, B., & Maderal, A. (2018). Treatment of melasma: a review of clinical trials. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 17(6), 611-616.

Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate:

Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate, also known as DMAE Tartrate, is a compound derived from the amino acid choline. It is commonly used in skincare products for its potential anti-aging and skin-firming properties.

2. Use:

DMAE Tartrate is often included in skincare formulations for its ability to improve skin tone and firmness. It is believed to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improve overall skin texture. DMAE Tartrate is commonly found in anti-aging creams, serums, and lotions.

3. Usage Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate:

When using skincare products containing DMAE Tartrate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions. DMAE Tartrate should be used as directed and should not be applied to broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- Perricone, N. V. (2007). The Perricone Promise: Look Younger, Live Longer in Three Easy Steps. Grand Central Life & Style.

- Lupo, M. P. (2007). Cosmeceutical Critique: DMAE. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 6(7), 796-798.

- Grossman, R. M. (2005). The Skin Commandments: 10 Rules to Healthy, Beautiful Skin. Fair Winds Press.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice

Function:

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice is a natural extract derived from the succulent leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, calming, and healing properties. It is often included in products such as moisturizers, lotions, sunscreens, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied directly to the skin or used as an ingredient in skincare products. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and irritated skin. When using products containing Aloe Vera, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Aloe Vera into your skincare routine, especially if you have any skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 5(1), 21–26.

- Choi, S., Chung, M. H., & Aeschbach, R. (2001). Antioxidant activity of Aloe vera in vitro study. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50(16), 3718–3722.