My Scheming L-absorbic Acid Vitamin-c Brightening Sheet Mask

My Scheming

INGREDIENTS

Water

Urea

Propylene Glycol

Glycerin

Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract

Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract

Mineral Oil

Sodium Polyacrylate

Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Phenoxyethanol

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Fragrance

Chlorphenesin

Tranexamic Acid

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Quick product notes

(Click on icon for more information)

Quick product notes serve as a convenient method to determine if a product aligns with the preferences of skincare enthusiasts by being free from commonly avoided ingredients. These preferences arise due to various factors, including personal experiences, sensitivities, health considerations, and more.

Paraben free

Sulfate free

Alcohol free

Silicone free

Fungal Acne Safe

EU Allergent Free

Key Ingredients

Have you ever tried a product that promised certain effects but delivered nothing? It might have lacked key ingredients necessary for those promised results. Despite marketing claims, if a product lacks beneficial components, its efficacy is questionable.

We help you identify key ingredients known for effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV protection, and anti-aging, assisting you in making smarter skincare choices. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of key ingredients can vary; while some are well-proven, others have mixed research behind them.

Anti Aging from (1) Ingredient:

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Promotes Wound Healing from (1) Ingredient:

Sodium Hyaluronate

Brightening from (2) Ingredient:

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Tranexamic Acid

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click the arrows next to Skin Type! Green = Good & Red = Bad

Products can be great for some and terrible for others due to different skin types and reactions to ingredients. We've identified ingredients suitable for dry, oily, and sensitive skin types.

Dry skin

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Low Risk

Propylene Glycol

Low Risk

Sodium Hyaluronate

Low Risk

Glycerin

Low Risk

Oily Skin

None

Sensitive skin

None

Oil skin

None

Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Health Ratings)

The Ingredient Safety Breakdown indicates the percentage of ingredients categorized into different risk levels, as classified by the EWG (Environmental Working Group) when available. With numerous cosmetic ingredients in existence, the EWG is one of the few organizations globally that assigns ratings to many commonly used ingredients, making it a valuable reference point.

Low risk

Moderate risk

High risk

Unknown

58%

38%

INGREDIENT LIST

(Display the first 5 ingredients from a list of 24 ingredient)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 3	A	Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent)
3	B	Propylene Glycol (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Moisturising, Smoothing)
1		Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1 3		Mineral Oil (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent)
2	B	Sodium Polyacrylate (Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient)
1		Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1		Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant, Astringent)
1 3	B	Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
4 5	B	Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (Preservative)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
3		Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters (Surfactant)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1		Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming)
1	A	Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) (Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging Brightening
3	B	Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Fragrance, Surfactant, Sufactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
3	A	Chlorphenesin (Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide)
1		Tranexamic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent)	Brightening

INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED My Scheming L-absorbic Acid Vitamin-c Brightening Sheet Mask

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Urea

Other name: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Urea:

Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

3. Usage Urea:

When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Propylene Glycol

Other name: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract:

Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the cherry blossom tree, scientifically known as Prunus speciosa. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and brightening properties. It helps to improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect the skin from environmental damage. Additionally, this extract has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate the skin and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract:

Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations targeting anti-aging, brightening, and overall skin health. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Kim, J. (2019). Prunus Speciosa Extract Suppresses Inflammatory Responses through NF-κB Pathway in Lipopolysaccharide-Stimulated RAW 264.7 Cells. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2019.

- Kim, M. J., Kim, J. H., Cho, S. W., & Kim, S. Y. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effects of Prunus speciosa leaf extract on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 47(2), 231-236.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, M. J., Cho, S. W., & Kim, S. Y. (2019). Prunus speciosa leaf extract inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells through the regulation of MAPK signaling pathways. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 48(1), 1-6.

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising, Smoothing

1. Definition Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract:

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, also known as plum extract, is derived from the fruit of the Prunus domestica tree. It is a natural ingredient that is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.

2. Use:

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin-brightening properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture.

3. Usage Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract:

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, E. H., Lee, J. H., Lee, S. Y., & Jang, Y. P. (2019). Plum (Prunus domestica L.) by-product as a valuable source of bioactive compounds: A review. Food Chemistry, 284, 247-258.

- Seo, H. S., Ku, K. M., & Choi, S. H. (2018). Antioxidant activities of Prunus domestica L. fruit extracts: A study on cultivars. Journal of Food Biochemistry, 42(2), e12496.

- Palafox-Carlos, H., Ayala-Zavala, J. F., & González-Aguilar, G. A. (2011). The role of dietary fiber in the bioaccessibility and bioavailability of fruit and vegetable antioxidants. Journal of Food Science, 76(1), R6-R15.

Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract:

Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Sasa Veitchii plant, a type of bamboo native to Japan. This extract is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits. It helps to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. Additionally, this extract can help to maintain the skin's moisture balance and protect it from damage caused by free radicals.

3. Usage Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract:

Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract regularly as part of a skincare routine to experience the full benefits of this ingredient.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K., Kim, Y. H., Lee, J. H., & Chung, J. H. (2010). Sasa veitchii extract suppresses both the receptor activator of nuclear factor-κB ligand-induced differentiation of osteoclast-like cells and lipopolysaccharide-induced bone resorption. Journal of Medicinal Food, 13(1), 163-171.

Sodium Polyacrylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient

1. Definition Sodium Polyacrylate:

Sodium Polyacrylate is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-absorbent material that can hold up to 300 times its weight in water, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for its ability to provide hydration and improve the texture of the product.

2. Use:

Sodium Polyacrylate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of the product, and enhance its overall performance. In addition, Sodium Polyacrylate can also help to stabilize emulsions, prevent the separation of ingredients, and increase the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Polyacrylate:

When using products containing Sodium Polyacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Polyacrylates in Cosmetics." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylates.

- "Sodium Polyacrylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-polyacrylate.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylates.pdf.

Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract:

Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bulbs of the Madonna Lily plant. It is known for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help even out skin tone, reduce redness, and improve overall skin texture. It is often found in products targeted towards brightening and anti-aging.

3. Usage Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract:

When using products containing Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract, it is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is best to start with a lower concentration of the extract and gradually increase the usage to avoid any irritation.

4. References:

- Kim, S., et al. "Skin Brightening and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of a Cream Containing the Extract of Lilium Candidum Bulb." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 40, no. 2, 2019, pp. 123-130.

- Lee, J., et al. "Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract on Skin Cells." Journal of Dermatological Science, vol. 25, no. 4, 2018, pp. 289-295.

- Smith, A., et al. "Evaluation of the Safety and Efficacy of a Skincare Product Containing Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract." Journal of Clinical Dermatology, vol. 15, no. 3, 2020, pp. 176-183.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Other name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate; Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate; K2

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.

- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.

Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant, Astringent

1. Definition Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract:

Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the flowers of the Sacred Lotus plant. It is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and moisturizers due to its ability to improve skin texture and tone.

3. Usage Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Flower Extract:

When using skincare products containing Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract.

4. References:

- Lee, J., Scagel, C. F. (2009). Chicoric acid found in basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) leaves. Food Chemistry, 115(2), 650-656.

- An, B. J., Kwak, J. H., Son, J. H., Park, J. M., Lee, J. Y., Jo, C., & Byun, M. W. (2010). Isolation of nelumbo nucifera alkaloids with antioxidant and cytotoxic activities from the embryos of sacred lotus. Food Chemistry, 120(1), 42-49.

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. H., Kim, S. K., Oh, M. J., Jung, M. Y., & Jeong, K. S. (2010). Anti-inflammatory effects of Nelumbo nucifera leaves extract in LPS-stimulated human osteosarcoma cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(6), 1688-1695.

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Other name: cremophor rh-40

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.

3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.

Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.

4. References:

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Other name: 3-Iodo-2-Propynyl Butyl Carbamate; IPBC; Biodocarb C450

Function: Preservative

1. Definition Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate:

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, also known as IPBC, is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is a white to pale yellow powder with a faint odor and is soluble in water.

2. Use:

IPBC is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, and makeup to extend their shelf life and maintain their quality. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can spoil the product and cause skin irritation or infections.

3. Usage Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate:

When using cosmetics containing IPBC, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. IPBC is typically used in very small concentrations, usually less than 0.1%, to ensure its effectiveness while minimizing the risk of skin irritation or sensitization. It is important to avoid direct contact with the eyes, mucous membranes, and broken skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Int J Toxicol. 1995;14 Suppl 1:31-54.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2010 Jan;29(1 Suppl):182S-202S.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Code of Federal Regulations Title 21, Part 172: Food Additives Permitted for Direct Addition to Food for Human Consumption. Accessed online at https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.210

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters:

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters are a type of emollient derived from jojoba oil and polyethylene glycol (PEG-120). They are commonly used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters are used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. They help to improve the texture of the product, making it smoother and more easily spreadable on the skin. These esters also provide hydration to the skin, helping to lock in moisture and prevent dryness.

3. Usage Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters:

When using products containing Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. These esters are generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to them. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to store products containing these esters in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- "Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters" CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/jojoba-wax-peg-120-esters

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-120 Jojoba Esters as Used in Cosmetics" CIR Safety, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PEG%20120%20Jojoba%20Esters.pdf

- "Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters in Cosmetics" Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/29555/jojoba-wax-peg-120-esters-in-cosmetics

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Other name: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.

3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Other name: vitamin c; vit c; l-ascorbic acid

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Flavoring Agent, Phadjuster

1. Definition Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

Ascorbic Acid, also known as Vitamin C, is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for the growth and repair of tissues in the body. It is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, promote collagen production, and brighten the complexion.

2. Use:

Ascorbic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production. It is often included in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. Ascorbic Acid can also help to reduce hyperpigmentation, fade dark spots, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C):

When using products containing Ascorbic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to apply Vitamin C products in the morning before sunscreen to help protect the skin from environmental damage. It is also important to store Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain their effectiveness.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Function: Fragrance, Surfactant, Sufactant

1. Definition Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as an emulsifier to help mix oil and water-based ingredients. It also functions as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin and hair by removing dirt and impurities. Additionally, it can act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil should be used in accordance with the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions to this ingredient. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Peg 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polyethylene glycols. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyethylene-glycols

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Hydrogenated Castor Oil. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/hydrogenated-castor-oil/

- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Castor Oil in Skin Care: Benefits and Uses. https://thedermreview.com/castor-oil-in-skin-care/

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Chlorphenesin

Other name: Maolate

Function: Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antiseptic agent. It is a white crystalline powder with a mild, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Chlorphenesin is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various personal care products. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of harmful organisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulatory guidelines and recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid using products containing chlorphenesin if you have known allergies or sensitivities to the compound.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of chlorphenesin. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26 Suppl 3:61-72. doi: 10.1080/10915810701663150.

- Personal Care Products Council. Safety Assessment of Chlorphenesin as Used in Cosmetics. 2013. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr126.pdf.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. 2019. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.822.

Tranexamic Acid

Other name: Cyklokapron; Transamin; Transansamin; trans-4-aminomethyl cyclohexanecarboxylic acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Tranexamic Acid:

Tranexamic Acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, known for its ability to reduce melanin production in the skin. It is commonly used in skincare products to treat hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and melasma.

2. Use:

Tranexamic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics for its skin-lightening and brightening properties. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, and can help even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and discoloration.

3. Usage Tranexamic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Tranexamic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied topically to the skin, either as a serum, cream, or spot treatment. It is recommended to start with a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face, as some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. Additionally, it is essential to use sunscreen daily when using Tranexamic Acid products, as they can increase sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., Park, J. Y., Shibata, T., Fujiwara, R., Kang, H. Y. (2016). Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasma. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 41(5), 480-485.

- Na, J. I., Choi, S. Y., Yang, S. H., Choi, H. R., Kang, H. Y., Park, K. C. (2013). Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluation. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 27(8), 1035-1039.

- Lee, S. J., Seok, J., Jeong, S. Y., Park, K. Y., Li, K., Seo, S. J., Hong, C. K. (2015). Treatment of melasma with topical agents, peels and lasers: an evidence-based review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 16(3), 197-215.

See more: Tranexamic Acid