Ingredients list Naruko Raw Job’S Tears Supercritical Co2 Pore ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Hydroxyacetophenone (Antioxidant)
1 4	B	Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Hydroxyethyl Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
		Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
5	B	Triethanolamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3	B	Propylene Glycol (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous)	Good for dry skin
1		Glycereth 26 (Solvent, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1	A	Hydroxyethylcellulose (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1		Glycosyl Trehalose (Humectant, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Protecting, Binding Agent, Film Forming)
1 3	B	Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (Humectant)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
5 6	B	Ethanolamine (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1		Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1		Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antioxidant)
		Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Epilobium Fleischeri Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming)
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
2	B	Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive)	Good for sensitive skin Good for dry skin
1		Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
1		Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
		Kalanchoe Spathulata Leaf Extract
1		Leontopodium Alpinum Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Yeast Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Ascorbyl Glucoside (Antioxidant)	Brightening
1	B	Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Abrasive)
1	A	Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Antioxidant)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Lactobacillus Ferment (Skin Conditioning)
4		Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate (Skin Conditioning, Abrasive)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Soy Amino Acids (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	1,2 Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Ammonium Glycyrrhizate (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)	Acne fighting Brightening
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
2 3		Zinc Gluconate (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Biocide)
1		Caffeine (Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1		Ellagic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1		Oleanolic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Biotin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antiseborrhoeic)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Other name: SymSave H

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Hydroxyacetophenone:

Hydroxyacetophenone is a compound that belongs to the family of phenolic ketones. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative due to its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Hydroxyacetophenone is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products. It helps to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, thereby maintaining the quality and safety of the cosmetic formulation.

3. Usage Hydroxyacetophenone:

When using products containing hydroxyacetophenone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before using products with hydroxyacetophenone to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Hydroxyacetophenone as a novel cosmetic preservative. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 25-33.

- De Groot, A. C., & Flyvholm, M. A. (2019). Contact allergy to hydroxyacetophenone in cosmetic products. Contact Dermatitis, 81(4), 267-272.

- European Commission. (2020). Opinion on hydroxyacetophenone. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.

Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate:

Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate is a mild, non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and polyethylene glycol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate is used in various cosmetic products such as cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to cleanse the skin and hair by removing dirt and impurities while also providing moisturizing benefits. Additionally, it helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in formulations.

3. Usage Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate:

When using products containing Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to rinse thoroughly if contact occurs.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "The Complete Beauty Bible: The Ultimate Guide to Smart Beauty." Rodale Books.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2015). "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook." Washington, DC: Personal Care Products Council.

- G. Wypych. (2016). "Handbook of Surfactants." ChemTec Publishing.

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Other name: Hydrovance

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Urea:

Hydroxyethyl Urea is a humectant and skin conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a derivative of urea, a natural moisturizing factor found in the skin, and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethyl Urea is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, lotions, creams, serums, and masks. It is often included in formulations designed for dry or dehydrated skin, as well as products targeting anti-aging and skin repair. Its hydrating properties make it a popular ingredient in skincare products aimed at improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and restoring moisture balance.

3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Urea:

When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin as directed, and avoid contact with the eyes. If any irritation or sensitivity occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any allergic reactions.

4. References:

- K. Schrader, P. J. Frosch, T. Kligman, W. Montagna, K. A. L. B. R. L. Stoughton, and M. H. Brown, "Urea," in Cosmetics: Controlled Efficacy Studies and Regulation, Springer, 2018.

- A. R. Draelos, "Cosmeceuticals," in Cosmeceuticals, Elsevier, 2016.

- M. Loden and H. Maibach, "Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function," in Dry Skin and Moisturizers, CRC Press, 2018.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Function:

Triethanolamine

Other name: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Triethanolamine:

Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.

2. Use:

Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.

3. Usage Triethanolamine:

While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine

- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120

Propylene Glycol

Other name: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

Glycereth 26

Function: Solvent, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Glycereth 26:

Glycereth-26 is a polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin, commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emollient, humectant, and solvent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycereth-26 is known for its ability to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to attract and retain moisture, leaving the skin feeling smooth and supple. Additionally, it can also be used as a thickening agent and emulsifier in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Glycereth 26:

Glycereth-26 is typically found in a wide range of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, masks, and sunscreens. It is safe for use in concentrations up to 10% in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper usage. Some precautions to consider when using products containing Glycereth-26 include potential skin irritation or allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is always advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- International Journal of Toxicology. (2008). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of PEG-2, -6, -8, -20, -32, -40, -50, -55, -75, -90, -100, -120, -150, -200, -7M, -14M, -20M, -35M, -55M, -75M, -115M, -155M, -175M, -195M, and -200M. 27(S2), 1-82.

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Glycereth-26. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glycereth-26

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of PEG/PPG Esters and Their Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/safety-assessments/

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Other name: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.

3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.

4. References:

- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)

- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Glycosyl Trehalose

Other name: Glycosyl Trehalose; Glycosyl Trehalose / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Function: Humectant, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Protecting, Binding Agent, Film Forming

1. Definition Glycosyl Trehalose:

Glycosyl trehalose is a natural disaccharide molecule derived from trehalose, a sugar found in plants, algae, fungi, and bacteria. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and skin conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Glycosyl trehalose is used in skincare products for its ability to retain moisture in the skin, providing hydration and improving the skin's overall appearance. It helps to prevent moisture loss, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin.

3. Usage Glycosyl Trehalose:

Glycosyl trehalose is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, applied to clean, dry skin before other products. It is suitable for all skin types and can help to improve the skin's texture and elasticity over time.

4. References:

- Yagihara S, et al. (2018). Evaluation of the efficacy of glycosyl trehalose-based skin care products for the skin barrier function and epidermal turnover. Journal of Dermatological Science. 91(3): 328-335.

- Park JH, et al. (2016). Anti-wrinkle effect of glycosyl trehalose on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 15(3): 327-332.

- Sato T, et al. (2014). Moisturizing effect of glycosyl trehalose on human skin. Journal of Dermatology. 41(8): 690-694.

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Other name: cremophor rh-40

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.

3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.

Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.

4. References:

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

Urea

Other name: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Urea:

Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

3. Usage Urea:

When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Other name: Glycosyl Trehalose; Glycosyl Trehalose / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate:

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (HSH) is a sugar alcohol derived from the hydrogenation of starch hydrolysate. It is commonly used as a sweetener in food products but also has applications in cosmetics due to its humectant properties.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, HSH is primarily used as a humectant, which means it helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. This can help to improve skin hydration and overall skin health. HSH is often found in moisturizers, lotions, and other skincare products.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate:

When using skincare products containing HSH, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with HSH to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing HSH.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Lee, S. H., & Cho, Y. S. (2017). A review of hydrogenated starch hydrolysates in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 185-195.

- Kim, E. Y., Kim, D. S., & Kim, S. H. (2019). The effects of hydrogenated starch hydrolysate on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 94(2), 123-130.

- Park, H. Y., Park, J. H., & Park, K. Y. (2018). Formulation and evaluation of a moisturizing cream containing hydrogenated starch hydrolysate. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(1), 67-74.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Ethanolamine

Other name: 2-aminoethanol; Monoethanolamine; MEA

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Ethanolamine:

Ethanolamine is a compound that belongs to the group of amino alcohols and is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and surfactant.

2. Use:

Ethanolamine is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to ensure that the product is stable and effective. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would not normally combine, and as a surfactant, which helps to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil.

3. Usage Ethanolamine:

Ethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in small concentrations. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to ethanolamine and may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with ethanolamine and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Ethanolamines. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethanolamines

- Personal Care Products Council. (2016). Ethanolamines. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/ethanolamines/

- Environmental Working Group. (n.d.). Ethanolamine. Retrieved from https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702500-ETHANOLAMINE/

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a smaller molecule derived from Hyaluronic Acid through a process called hydrolysis. It is known for its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity and firmness.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is commonly used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its hydrating properties and ability to plump up the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid regularly to maintain hydrated and youthful-looking skin.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, Eleni, Michael Roth, and George Karakiulakis. "Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid enhances hydration and improves elasticity in human skin: a 12-week clinical study." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 8 (2015): 267.

- Pavicic, Tatjana, et al. "Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment." Journal of Drugs in Dermatology 10.9 (2011): 990-1000.

- Schlesinger, Tova E., and Zoe Diana Draelos. "Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: A Natural Biomimetic Polysaccharide." Dermatologic Surgery 44.8 (2018): 1088-1092.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract:

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, also known as Snow Fungus Extract, is derived from a type of mushroom found in Asia. It is a natural ingredient known for its hydrating and anti-aging properties in skincare products.

2. Use:

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to deeply hydrate the skin. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. This extract is often found in moisturizers, serums, and masks targeting dry or aging skin.

3. Usage Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract:

When using skincare products containing Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, the extract is applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on the product. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new skincare ingredient into your routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Park, S. U., & Choi, Y. H. (2014). Anti-inflammatory and anti-skin-aging effects of the Tremella fuciformis sporocarp in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells and the skin of hairless mice. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 24(10), 1319-1326.

- Chen, W., Zhao, Z., Chen, S. F., Li, Y. Q., & Li, W. J. (2008). Effect of Tremella fuciformis on the activity and mRNA expression of antioxidant enzymes in rat primary hepatocytes. Experimental and Toxicologic Pathology, 60(2-3), 169-173.

- Wang, C., Wang, Z., Qiao, X., Tian, X., Zhang, Q., Zhang, H., ... & Wang, L. (2019). Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide suppresses hydrogen peroxide-triggered injury of human skin fibroblasts via upregulation of SIRT1. Molecular Medicine Reports, 20(4), 3865-3874.

Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is an extract derived from the flowers, leaves, and stems of the Scutellaria Alpina plant. This plant is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and calming effects on the skin. It can help reduce redness, inflammation, and irritation, making it ideal for sensitive or reactive skin types. Additionally, this extract is rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract can be found in various skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%, depending on the desired effect. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, simply apply products containing it to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, Y. C., Kim, K. H., & Lee, I. S. (2015). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf, and stem extracts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 66(3), 145-151.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, J. H., & Kim, S. H. (2018). Effects of Scutellaria alpina flower/leaf/stem extract on skin hydration and barrier function. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(4), 385-391.

- Park, S. Y., Lee, Y. J., & Kim, S. H. (2020). Potential use of Scutellaria alpina flower/leaf/stem extract in anti-aging skincare products. Journal of Dermatological Science, 97(1), 21-27.

Epilobium Fleischeri Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

Definition:
Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is derived from the plant Epilobium fleischeri, also known as Fleischer's willowherb. This extract is rich in antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds, and astringent properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics for its soothing and calming effects on the skin.

Use:
Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation in the skin. Additionally, this extract can help regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Epilobium Fleischeri Extract is also known to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

Usage:
When using skincare products containing Epilobium Fleischeri Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This extract is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also important to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, H. S., et al. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Epilobium Fleischeri extract on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 46(4), 548-554.

- Park, S. Y., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Epilobium Fleischeri extract in UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(3), 789-795.

- Lee, J. Y., et al. (2020). Sebum-regulating effects of Epilobium Fleischeri extract in patients with acne vulgaris: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 31(2), 123-129.

Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract:

Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Artemisia Umbelliformis plant, also known as Alpine Wormwood. This plant is native to the mountainous regions of Europe and has been traditionally used for its medicinal properties.

2. Use:

Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors and can help to reduce redness and inflammation. This extract is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products targeting sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract:

Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1%. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, look for products specifically formulated to target sensitive or irritated skin.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. H., & Bae, S. (2017). Anti-inflammatory action of Artemisia umbelliformis in the RAW264.7 cell line. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 46(12), 1556-1561.

- European Medicines Agency. (2017). Assessment report on Artemisia umbelliformis Lam., herba. Retrieved from https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/documents/herbal-report/final-assessment-report-artemisia-umbelliformis-lam-herba_en.pdf

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is a botanical extract derived from the marigold flower, Calendula Officinalis. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its calming and healing benefits. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, Calendula extract is believed to have antioxidant properties that can protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%, depending on the desired effect. When using products containing Calendula extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use. Some individuals may be allergic to Calendula, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2002). Calendula officinalis: A review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 303-306.

- Preethi, K. C., & Kuttan, R. (2009). Wound healing activity of flower extract of Calendula officinalis. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology, 20(1), 73-79.

- Raskovic, A., Milanovic, I., Pavlovic, N., Cebovic, T., Vukmirovic, S., & Mikov, M. (2011). Antioxidant activity of Calendula officinalis L. flower extract. Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica, 68(5), 793-801.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive

1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.

4. References:

- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.

- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.

- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract

Function:

1. Definition Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract:

Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the roots of the Curcuma longa plant. It is known for its bright yellow color and is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Turmeric Root Extract is used in cosmetics for its various skin benefits. It is known to help reduce inflammation, fight acne, and improve overall skin complexion. Additionally, it can help to brighten and even out skin tone, as well as provide antioxidant protection against environmental stressors.

3. Usage Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract:

Turmeric Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, masks, and cleansers. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid staining the skin. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Turmeric Root Extract to ensure that it does not cause any irritation or allergic reactions. Additionally, it is recommended to use sunscreen when using products with Turmeric Root Extract, as it may increase skin sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Vaughn AR, Branum A, Sivamani RK. Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytother Res. 2016;30(8):1243-64. doi: 10.1002/ptr.5640.

- Thangapazham RL, Sharma A, Maheshwari RK. Beneficial role of curcumin in skin diseases. Adv Exp Med Biol. 2007;595:343-57. doi: 10.1007/978-0-387-46401-5_15.

- Sidhu GS, Singh AK, Thaloor D, Banaudha KK, Patnaik GK, Srimal RC, et al. Enhancement of wound healing by curcumin in animals. Wound Repair Regen. 1998;6(2):167-77. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-475x.1998.60212.x.

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract:

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Ginkgo Biloba tree, a plant native to China. It is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its potential benefits in improving skin texture and reducing signs of aging.

2. Use:

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is believed to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as pollution and UV radiation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract may help improve circulation and promote collagen production, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract:

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations targeting aging, dullness, and uneven skin tone. To incorporate Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract into your skincare routine, look for products specifically formulated with this ingredient and follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

4. References:

- Choi, H. S., Kim, M. K., Lee, K., Lee, K. M., Kim, Y. J., & Jun, W. (2017). Ginkgo biloba extract promotes osteogenic differentiation of human bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells. Journal of medicinal food, 20(6), 579-586.

- Zhou, L., Gao, Q., Zhang, G., Wang, X., Zhang, J., & Zhang, L. (2018). Ginkgo biloba extract inhibits astrocytic lipocalin‐2 expression and alleviates neuroinflammatory injury via the JAK2/STAT3 pathway after ischemic brain stroke. Phytotherapy Research, 32(12), 2527-2536.

- Kaur, N., Kishore, L., Singh, R., & Singh, S. (2018). Ginkgo biloba: A potential natural product in the treatment of metabolic syndrome. Pharmacognosy reviews, 12(23), 111.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Kalanchoe Spathulata Leaf Extract

Function:

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Leontopodium Alpinum Extract:

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, also known as Edelweiss extract, is derived from the Edelweiss flower native to the Alps. It is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient commonly used in skincare products.

2. Use:

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. It also helps to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Additionally, this extract has anti-aging properties and can help to improve the overall appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Leontopodium Alpinum Extract:

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract is typically found in serums, creams, and masks. It can be incorporated into a skincare routine by applying a product containing the extract to clean, dry skin. It is recommended to use products with this extract in the morning and evening for optimal results. However, it is important to patch test the product first, especially for individuals with sensitive skin, to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Lee, W. J., & Park, H. J. (2008). Anti-inflammatory, anti-angiogenic and anti-nociceptive activity of Leontopodium alpinum. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 115(2), 282-289.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Murbach, T. S., & Glombitza, K. W. (2003). Ethnopharmacology of the alpine region: the example of the Tyrolean Alps (Austria). Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 89(1), 27-32.

Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract:

Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Peucedanum ostruthium plant, also known as Masterwort. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract is used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and soothe irritation. It is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or aging skin, as it can help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid using products with this ingredient if you have known allergies to plants in the Apiaceae family.

4. References:

- Choi, J. et al. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Peucedanum ostruthium on cytokine and inducible nitric oxide synthase expression in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 186, 209-216.

- Jung, M. et al. (2014). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Peucedanum ostruthium leaf extracts. Food Science and Biotechnology, 23(4), 1189-1196.

- Lee, S. et al. (2019). Protective effects of Peucedanum ostruthium leaf extract against UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 191, 70-76.

Yeast Extract

Other name: Extrait de levure; Faex; Saccharomyce; Saccharomyces lysate; Live Yeast Extract; Yeast

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Yeast Extract:

Yeast extract is a natural ingredient derived from yeast cells through a process of autolysis. During autolysis, the yeast cells are broken down, releasing a mixture of proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals.

2. Use:

Yeast extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It is known to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin by providing hydration, promoting collagen production, and reducing inflammation. Yeast extract is also believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Yeast Extract:

Yeast extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to yeast extract, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is always advisable to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for the best results.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., Park, J. H., Lee, S. K., & Park, S. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory mechanisms of yeasts in the skin: cytokine expression and phagocytosis. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(3), e77.

- Gancedo, C., & Serrano, R. (1989). Energy-yielding metabolism in yeasts. FEMS Microbiology Reviews, 63(2-3), 233-257.

- Zhai, Q., & Tian, F. (2016). Feeding the microbiota: transducer of nutrient signals for the host. Gut Microbes, 7(5), 465-468.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Other name: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable derivative of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin. It is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C that is more stable and less irritating than pure Vitamin C.

2. Use:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is used in cosmetics for its various benefits to the skin. It helps to protect the skin from free radicals, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. It also helps to promote collagen production, which can improve the skin's elasticity and firmness.

3. Usage Ethyl Ascorbic Acid:

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is best applied to clean, dry skin in the morning and evening before moisturizer. It is important to wear sunscreen during the day when using products containing Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Other name: Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside; AA2G

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Glucoside:

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable derivative of Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and skin brightening effects.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Glucoside is used in cosmetics and skincare products to help protect the skin from free radical damage, promote collagen production, and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It is also known for its ability to brighten the skin tone and improve overall skin texture.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Glucoside:

Ascorbyl Glucoside is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Ascorbyl Glucoside in the morning, as Vitamin C can help protect the skin from environmental damage and UV exposure. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to start with a lower concentration to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., Grichnik, J. M., Zielinski, J., Pinnell, S. R. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract

Other name: Avena Sativa Kernel Extract; Oat Kernel Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Abrasive

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is derived from the oat plant and is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm irritated skin and provide hydration.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract is used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and emollient properties. It is often included in products designed for sensitive skin, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to help reduce redness, itching, and dryness. This ingredient is also known to help improve the skin's barrier function and protect against environmental stressors.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract:

When using products containing Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no adverse reactions. This ingredient is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with oat allergies should avoid products containing oat-derived ingredients. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products with this extract.

4. References:

- Baumann, Leslie. "Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients." McGraw Hill Professional, 2015.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. "Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures." John Wiley & Sons, 2015.

- Sur, Rituparna. "Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics." CRC Press, 2016.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable derivative of Vitamin C, commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.

2. Use:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is often included in cosmetic formulations to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is also known for its ability to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

When using skincare products containing Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of product is applied to clean, dry skin in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product recommendations. It is important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Vitamin C derivatives to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Telang, P. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/

Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract

Other name: Yokuinin Ekisu; Job's Tears (Coix Lacryma-Jobi) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract:

Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract, also known as Job's Tears Seed Extract, is derived from the seeds of the Coix lacryma-jobi plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening properties.

2. Use:

Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often found in products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to help improve skin texture and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, this extract is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for calming irritated skin.

3. Usage Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract:

When using products containing Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. This extract is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to use caution and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to determine how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Kim, B. K., Lee, Y. J., & Lee, S. H. (2017). The protective effect of Coix lacryma-jobi L. var. ma-yuen Stapf extract on ultraviolet B-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 166, 151-157.

- Oh, J. Y., Kim, H. J., Kim, Y. M., An, S., Lee, J. H., Lee, S. H., & Lee, Y. (2018). Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects of Coix lacryma-jobi L. var. ma-yuen Stapf sprout extract. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 220, 87-95.

- Chen, Y., Wu, Q., Song, Y., & Zhang, Q. (2013). Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects of Coix lacryma-jobi L. var. ma-yuen Stapf sprout extract on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW264. 7 cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 147(2), 363-370.

Lactobacillus Ferment

Other name: Lactobacillus Ferment Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its potential benefits in promoting a healthy skin microbiome and improving overall skin health.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus Ferment is often included in skincare formulations for its ability to help balance the skin's microbiome, which can lead to a more radiant and clear complexion. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties and can help strengthen the skin's natural barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, and can be used in both morning and evening skincare routines. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing this ingredient. To maximize its benefits, it is best to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and incorporate it into a consistent skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Kim, H., An, S., Lee, S. H., Lee, S., Cha, Y. J., & Lee, H. S. (2017). Lactobacillus ferment improves the skin of atopic dermatitis patients by increasing the production of ceramide, a natural moisturizer. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(4), 454-460.

- Kim, J. H., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Lactobacillus ferment extract improves the skin barrier function in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 694-699.

- Kober, M. M., & Bowe, W. P. (2015). The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoaging. International Journal of Women's Dermatology, 1(2), 85-89.

Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Abrasive

1. Definition Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate:

Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Vibrio alginolyticus, a marine bacterium. It is known for its hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin texture, and reduce redness and inflammation. This ingredient is often included in products targeting dry or sensitive skin, as well as those looking for anti-aging benefits.

3. Usage Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate:

When using skincare products containing Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, this ingredient is safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. Additionally, it is important to store products containing this ingredient in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K., & Thomas, N. V. (2011). Marine cosmeceuticals: trends and prospects. CRC Press.

- Lopes, L. B., & Murphy, C. J. (2016). Smart design of stable and effective multipurpose emulsions containing Vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate for skin care applications. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 67(3), 171-184.

- Lee, H. Y., & Kim, H. R. (2018). Anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenic effects of Vibrio alginolyticus fermentation extract. Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry, 61(2), 123-129.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract:

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the horse chestnut tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Horse chestnut seed extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of skin by reducing inflammation, redness, and puffiness. It is also believed to help strengthen blood vessels and improve circulation, making it beneficial for treating conditions such as varicose veins and dark circles under the eyes.

3. Usage Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract:

Horse chestnut seed extract is typically found in skincare products such as creams, serums, and eye treatments. It can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into formulations to target specific skin concerns. When using products containing horse chestnut seed extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- 1. Schempp CM, Lüdtke R, Winghofer B, Simon JC. Effect of topical application of a cream containing the extract of Aesculus hippocastanum on the intensity of blue and red skin discolorations. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005 Jun;27(3):183-7. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00269.x. PMID: 18492112.

- 2. Pittler MH, Ernst E. Horse chestnut seed extract for chronic venous insufficiency. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2012 Nov 14;2012(11):CD003230. doi: 10.1002/14651858.CD003230.pub4. PMID: 23152216; PMCID: PMC6513435.

- 3. Facino RM, Carini M, Stefani R, Aldini G, Saibene L. Anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase activities of saponins and sapogenins from Hedera helix, Aesculus hippocastanum, and Ruscus aculeatus: factors contributing to their efficacy in the treatment of venous insufficiency. Arch Pharm (Weinheim). 1995 Nov;328(11):720-4. doi: 10.1002/ardp.19953281110. PMID: 8552953.

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract:

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark of the Enantia chlorantha tree, native to West Africa. It is known for its astringent and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help control excess oil production in the skin. It is often found in products targeted towards oily or acne-prone skin, as it can help reduce shine and minimize the appearance of pores. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract:

When using products containing Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to allow it to fully absorb before applying any additional products. It is also important to patch test the product before using it on a larger area of the skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Gomes, A., Fortes, M., Aguiar, J., et al. (2017). Anti-inflammatory activity of Enantia chlorantha in mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 198, 1-6.

- Ouedraogo, M., Lamien-Meda, A., Kiendrebeogo, M., et al. (2005). Anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antioxidant activities of Enantia chlorantha stem bark. Fitoterapia, 76(3-4), 316-321.

- Koffi, E., Kouakou, L., Yapo, A., et al. (2019). Phytochemical screening and evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity of Enantia chlorantha stem bark extract. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 8(1), 1973-1977.

Soy Amino Acids

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Soy Amino Acids:

Soy Amino Acids are organic compounds derived from soybeans that contain essential amino acids necessary for healthy skin function. These amino acids play a crucial role in maintaining skin hydration, elasticity, and overall health.

2. Use:

Soy Amino Acids are commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for their ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote collagen production. They are also known for their moisturizing properties, making them suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin.

3. Usage Soy Amino Acids:

Soy Amino Acids can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. They can be applied topically onto the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and dosage to avoid any potential adverse effects.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, J., & Kim, Y. (2018). Soybean-derived bioactive peptides and their functions: A review. International Journal of Food Science & Technology, 53(3), 799-812.

- Chiu, A., Kimball, A. B., & Kimball, A. B. (2003). Topical vitamins, minerals and botanical ingredients as modulators of environmental and chronological skin damage. British Journal of Dermatology, 149(4), 681-691.

- Park, S. Y., & Kim, D. S. (2018). A review of anti-aging properties of soy isoflavones in skin. Food Science and Biotechnology, 27(4), 965-974.

1,2 Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2 Hexanediol:

1,2 Hexanediol is a colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant odor that is used in cosmetics as a humectant, emollient, and solvent. It is a type of glycol that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

1,2 Hexanediol is commonly used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate the skin and hair. It also functions as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Additionally, it can act as a preservative, helping to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage 1,2 Hexanediol:

When using cosmetics containing 1,2 Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory authorities. However, some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient, so it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product.

Precautions: While 1,2 Hexanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use of the product and consult a healthcare professional. It is also important to keep cosmetics containing 1,2 Hexanediol out of reach of children and to store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol, 1,2-Octanediol, and 1,2-Decanediol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "1,2-Hexanediol" in the Personal Care Products Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook

- "1,2-Hexanediol" on the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database.

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Ammonium Glycyrrhizate:

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate is a compound derived from licorice root that is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help calm and reduce redness in sensitive or irritated skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Ammonium Glycyrrhizate:

When using products containing Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to avoid contact with the eyes. Some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient, so a patch test is recommended before applying it to a larger area of skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Education.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2013). Novel Cosmetic Delivery Systems. CRC Press.

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Zinc Gluconate

Other name: Zn Gluconate

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Zinc Gluconate:

Zinc Gluconate is a mineral compound that is derived from zinc and gluconic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

2. Use:

Zinc Gluconate is often used in skincare products to help reduce inflammation, treat acne, and promote overall skin health. It can also help regulate oil production and promote wound healing.

3. Usage Zinc Gluconate:

Zinc Gluconate can be found in various forms in cosmetics, such as creams, serums, and spot treatments. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as an ingredient in a skincare formulation. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing Zinc Gluconate.

4. References:

- Bhattacharjee, S., & Koley, J. (2018). Zinc gluconate: A promising agent for the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 63(4), 332-336.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). The effect of zinc supplementation on acne vulgaris: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 9(11), 1403-1408.

- Sharquie, K. E., & Al-Turfi, I. A. (2017). The role of zinc gluconate in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(4), e68-e73.

Caffeine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Caffeine:

Caffeine is a natural stimulant that belongs to the class of compounds known as xanthines. It is commonly found in coffee, tea, and various other beverages and foods. In cosmetics, caffeine is often used for its stimulating and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Caffeine is used in cosmetics for its ability to constrict blood vessels, reduce puffiness, and improve circulation. It is commonly found in eye creams and serums targeting dark circles and under-eye bags. Caffeine can also help to smooth and tighten the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.

3. Usage Caffeine:

When using cosmetics containing caffeine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, caffeine-infused products are applied topically to the skin, focusing on areas of concern such as the under-eye area or areas prone to cellulite. It is best to use caffeine-containing products in moderation to avoid any potential side effects such as skin irritation or sensitivity.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2012). Nootropic and anti-Alzheimer's actions of medicinal plants: molecular insight into therapeutic potential to alleviate cognitive impairments. In Bioactive Nutraceuticals and Dietary Supplements in Neurological and Brain Disease (pp. 605-619). Academic Press.

- Costa, R., Rodrigues, I., Guardão, L., Lima, J. L., & Fernandes, E. (2012). Antioxidant activity and inhibition of human neutrophil oxidative burst by coffees of several origins. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 50(5), 1435-1441.

- Albasini, A., Zech, K., & Taddei, C. (2012). Use of caffeine in cosmetic compositions. U.S. Patent No. 8,119,371.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Ellagic Acid

Other name: Benzoaric Acid; Eleagic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ellagic Acid:

Ellagic Acid is a naturally occurring polyphenol compound found in various fruits and nuts, such as strawberries, raspberries, pomegranates, and walnuts. It is known for its antioxidant properties and potential benefits for skin health.

2. Use:

Ellagic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. Ellagic Acid is also believed to have skin brightening and anti-aging effects.

3. Usage Ellagic Acid:

Ellagic Acid is typically included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is often used in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, acne, and aging skin. When using products containing Ellagic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kaur, M., Kaur, A., Sharma, R. J., & Singh, R. P. (2016). Bioavailability of ellagic acid. Journal of Pharmacy & Pharmacognosy Research, 4(4), 171-181.

- Afaq, F., & Mukhtar, H. (2006). Botanical antioxidants in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Experimental Dermatology, 15(9), 678-684.

- Choi, J. S., Chung, H. Y., Kang, S. S., & Jung, J. Y. (2014). Ellagic acid induced the apoptosis of HT-29 human colon cancer cells through the inhibition of intracellular fatty acid synthase activity. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 74, 32-38.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Oleanolic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Oleanolic Acid:

Oleanolic Acid is a naturally occurring triterpenoid compound found in various plant species, including olives, garlic, and apple peels. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Oleanolic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce inflammation, protect against free radicals, and promote collagen production, leading to improved skin texture and tone.

3. Usage Oleanolic Acid:

Oleanolic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin to target specific concerns like acne, wrinkles, and sun damage. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Oleanolic Acid into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Sultana, S., Asif, H. M., Nazar, H. M., & Akhtar, N. (2019). Oleanolic acid: a novel cardioprotective agent. Journal of Pharmacopuncture, 22(4), 204-209.

- Wang, X., & Zhang, L. (2019). Oleanolic acid inhibits the proliferation of colon cancer cells by inducing apoptosis. Journal of BUON, 24(4), 1536-1541.

- Park, S., Lee, D. K., Yang, C. H., & Lee, H. Y. (2019). Oleanolic acid inhibits inflammatory mediators by suppressing redox-based NF-κB and MAPKs activation in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated human dental pulp cells. European Journal of Pharmacology, 859, 172528.

Biotin

Other name: Vitamin B7; Vitamin H; Coenzyme R; Biopeiderm

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antiseborrhoeic

1. Definition Biotin:

Biotin, also known as vitamin B7 or vitamin H, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin, hair, and nails. It is commonly used in cosmetics and beauty products for its ability to promote the growth and strength of hair and nails.

2. Use:

Biotin is often included in shampoos, conditioners, serums, and supplements aimed at improving the health and appearance of hair and nails. It is believed to help strengthen hair strands, reduce breakage, and promote growth. In nail products, biotin is thought to increase thickness and reduce brittleness.

3. Usage Biotin:

When using biotin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended dosage and application instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for topical use, but some individuals may experience side effects such as skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using biotin products on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Trüeb, R. M. (2016). Serum Biotin Levels in Women Complaining of Hair Loss. International Journal of Trichology, 8(2), 73–77. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.188040

- Patel, D. P., Swink, S. M., & Castelo-Soccio, L. (2017). A Review of the Use of Biotin for Hair Loss. Skin Appendage Disorders, 3(3), 166–169. https://doi.org/10.1159/000462981

- Lipner, S. R., & Scher, R. K. (2017). Biotin for the Treatment of Nail Disease: What is the Evidence? Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28(1), 16–17. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2016.1276528