Full ingredients list Nip+Fab Ceramide Fix Overnight Cream 12%

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Aqua/Water/Eau (Solvent)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1		Polyglycerin 6 (Humectant)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Azelaic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Brightening Acne fighting
1 3		C15 19 Alkane (Solvent)
2 3	B	Myristyl Myristate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Opacifying)	Bad for oily skin
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Ceramide Np	Anti Aging
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
		Ceramide EOP (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1		Acetyl Hexapeptide 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Inulin (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
2	B	Cetearyl Glucoside (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming)
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1		Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide (Skin Conditioning, Cleansing, Smoothing)
1		Citronellyl Methylcrotonate (Masking, Perfuming, Fragrance)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Dehydroacetic Acid (Preservative)
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	A	Glucose (Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)

Aqua/Water/Eau

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate:

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is a synthetic ester of pentaerythritol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can also act as a binder and emulsifier in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate:

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulations and guidelines. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to follow the recommended usage levels specified by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review, "Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate," International Journal of Toxicology, 2005.

- Personal Care Council, "Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate," https://www.personalcarecouncil.org.

- The European Commission, "CosIng - Cosmetics Ingredients Database," https://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics/cosing_en.

Polyglycerin 6

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Polyglycerin 6:

Polyglycerin 6 is a polyol compound derived from glycerin that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and moisturizing agent. It is a clear, viscous liquid that helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Polyglycerin 6 is used in cosmetics to hydrate and moisturize the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. It can be found in a wide range of products such as moisturizers, serums, lotions, and creams. Its emollient properties help to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing water loss and maintaining hydration levels.

3. Usage Polyglycerin 6:

When using products containing Polyglycerin 6, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Avoid contact with the eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. K. S. (2016). Polyglycerin-6. Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglycerin-6

- Thakur, N. S., & Thakur, A. (2017). Polyglycerin-6 as a Humectant in Cosmetic Formulations. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 8(12), 5019-5024.

- Kim, J. Y., Lee, J. S., & Kim, D. S. (2019). Formulation and Evaluation of Polyglycerin-6 Based Moisturizing Cream. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 45(1), 1-8.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Azelaic Acid

Other name: Azeleic Acid; Nonanedioic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Azelaic Acid:

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. In cosmetics, it is commonly used for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it effective in treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.

2. Use:

Azelaic acid is used in skincare products such as creams, gels, and serums to help improve the appearance of skin by reducing inflammation, unclogging pores, and fading dark spots. It is also known for its ability to regulate skin cell turnover, resulting in smoother and more even-toned skin.

3. Usage Azelaic Acid:

When using products containing azelaic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to assess tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is recommended to apply a thin layer of the product to clean, dry skin once or twice daily, followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Del Rosso, J. Q. (2013). Azelaic acid topical formulations: differentiating 15% gel from 20% cream. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 12(9), 1012-1016.

- Thiboutot, D., Dréno, B., Abanmi, A., Alexis, A., Araviiskaia, E., Barona Cabal, M. I., ... & Zouboulis, C. C. (2018). Practical management of acne for clinicians: an international consensus from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 78(2), S1-S23.

- Kircik, L. H. (2014). Azelaic acid 15% gel: in the treatment of papulopustular rosacea. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 7(12), 27-29.

See more: Azelaic Acid

C15 19 Alkane

Function: Solvent

1. Definition C15 19 Alkane:

C15-19 Alkane is a mixture of linear alkanes with carbon chain lengths ranging from 15 to 19. These alkanes are saturated hydrocarbons that are derived from natural sources such as petroleum or plant oils.

2. Use:

C15-19 Alkanes are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients and conditioning agents. They help to soften and smooth the skin, providing a silky and moisturized feel. These alkanes also act as occlusives, forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss and improve the overall hydration of the skin.

3. Usage C15 19 Alkane:

C15-19 Alkanes are found in a variety of skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. They are often used in formulations for their lightweight texture, non-greasy feel, and ability to enhance the spreadability of products. When using products containing C15-19 Alkanes, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the product instructions and avoid contact with the eyes.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2015). Final report on the safety assessment of C13-16 isoparaffin.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Alkanes. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org.

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2008). An overview of the safety of alkanes.

Myristyl Myristate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Opacifying

1. Definition Myristyl Myristate:

Myristyl Myristate is a fatty acid ester derived from myristic acid and myristyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Myristyl Myristate is primarily used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and makeup products. Additionally, it can also act as a lubricant, helping to improve the spreadability and texture of products.

3. Usage Myristyl Myristate:

Myristyl Myristate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it is important to use it in moderation. It is recommended to patch test products containing Myristyl Myristate before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to follow the instructions on product labels and consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Myristyl Myristate", CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/myristyl-myristate

- "Myristyl Myristate", The Dermatology Review, https://thedermreview.com/myristyl-myristate/

- "Myristyl Myristate", Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/myristyl-myristate

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Ceramide Np

Other name: Ceramide 3; Ceramide III

Function:

1. Definition Ceramide Np:

Ceramide Np, also known as Ceramide 3, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function, helping to retain moisture, protect against environmental aggressors, and prevent water loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide Np is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It is particularly beneficial for individuals with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin conditions, as it helps to replenish and reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier. Ceramide Np can also help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, promoting a smoother, softer, and more hydrated complexion.

3. Usage Ceramide Np:

Ceramide Np can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. To use ceramide Np effectively, apply a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin, gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from UV damage.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Lee JH. Topical application of ceramide NP in the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Ann Dermatol. 2012;24(2):176-185.

- Lee HJ, Lee HE, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Ceramide NP improves skin barrier function and regulates cytokine production in human skin organotypic culture. Ann Dermatol. 2015;27(5):499-511.

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Ceramide EOP

Other name: Ceramide 9

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide EOP:

Ceramide EOP, also known as Ceramide 1, is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide EOP is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to replenish the skin's natural ceramide levels, improving hydration and protecting against environmental stressors.

3. Usage Ceramide EOP:

Ceramide EOP can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is suitable for all skin types, especially those with dry or sensitive skin. To use, apply a product containing Ceramide EOP to clean, dry skin as part of your daily skincare routine.

Precautions: While Ceramide EOP is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cho, Y., Kim, J., Oh, S., & Lee, J. (2018). The role of ceramides in skin health and cosmetic science. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 30-37.

- Ghadially, R., Brown, B. E., Sequeira-Martin, S. M., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1995). The aged epidermal permeability barrier: structural, functional, and lipid biochemical abnormalities in humans and a senescent murine model. Journal of Clinical Investigation, 95(5), 2281-2290.

- Park, K. (2017). Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(4), 178-186.

Acetyl Hexapeptide 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Acetyl Hexapeptide 1:

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, also known as Melitane, is a synthetic peptide that is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties. It is a chain of six amino acids that work by stimulating melanin production in the skin, helping to even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

2. Use:

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 is primarily used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is often included in formulations targeting age spots, sun damage, and uneven skin tone. This peptide can also help to reduce the signs of aging by promoting collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Acetyl Hexapeptide 1:

When using products containing Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific formulation. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products containing this peptide to protect the skin from further sun damage.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Kim, K. H., & Kim, D. S. (2018). The effect of acetyl hexapeptide-1 on the expression of extracellular matrix proteins in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(2), 203-209.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmeceuticals and cosmetic ingredients. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Lee, J. H., Han, S. H., Lee, J. H., & Lee, M. H. (2016). Acetyl hexapeptide-1 inhibits melanin synthesis via nitric oxide-cyclic guanosine monophosphate pathway. Journal of Dermatological Science, 83(1), 45-53.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Inulin

Other name: Inulin Powder; Agave Inulin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Inulin:

Inulin is a naturally occurring polysaccharide that belongs to a group of carbohydrates known as fructans. It is commonly derived from chicory root and has a variety of uses in the cosmetics industry due to its moisturizing and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Inulin is often used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic ingredients for its ability to hydrate and condition the skin. It is commonly found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to help improve the skin's overall hydration levels and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Inulin:

Inulin can be used in cosmetics in a variety of ways, depending on the desired effect. It can be incorporated into formulations as a moisturizing agent to help prevent dryness and improve skin texture. Inulin can also be used as a soothing ingredient to help calm irritation and redness, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Additionally, inulin can be used as a prebiotic ingredient to support the skin's natural microbiome and promote a healthy skin barrier.

4. References:

- Gómez-Gallego, C., et al. (2016). In vitro fermentation of a red wine extract by human gut microbiota: changes in microbial groups and formation of phenolic metabolites. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 64(4), 735-745.

- Franco-Robles, E., et al. (2018). Inulin-type fructans: functional food ingredients. Journal of Food and Nutrition Research, 6(1), 1-8.

- Lefranc-Millot, C., et al. (2020). Effects of dietary supplementation with inulin-type fructans on blood glucose and lipid profiles: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials. Clinical Nutrition, 39(2), 403-413.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetearyl Glucoside:

Cetearyl Glucoside is a natural emulsifier derived from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products to stabilize emulsions and create a smooth, creamy texture.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Glucoside is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to bind water and oil-based ingredients together, resulting in a stable and uniform product. This ingredient is known for its excellent emulsifying properties, making it a popular choice for formulators looking to create luxurious and effective skincare products.

3. Usage Cetearyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Cetearyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by Truth in Aging

- "Cetearyl Glucoside in Cosmetics" by PubMed Central

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a natural ingredient derived from the reaction of lactic acid and lauric acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it can provide moisturizing properties to the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare products.

3. Usage Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

When using products containing Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by The Derm Review

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Council

Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Other name: carbopol 1342 polymer; pemulen tr-1; pemulen tr-2

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier. It is a crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and spreadable texture, improve the stability of the formulation, and enhance the overall performance of the product. This ingredient is often used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency and viscosity.

3. Usage Acrylates/ C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/acrylatesc10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer.

- "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/acrylates-c10-30-alkyl-acrylate-crosspolymer/.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide

Other name: Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide; Bioecolia

Function: Skin Conditioning, Cleansing, Smoothing

1. Definition Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide is a natural prebiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of natural sugars. It is known for its ability to promote the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin, helping to maintain a healthy skin microbiome.

2. Use:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its prebiotic properties. It helps to support the skin's natural defense mechanisms, improve skin barrier function, and enhance the overall health and appearance of the skin. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing properties, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide:

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and cleansers. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, look for products that list Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide in the ingredient list and follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.

4. References:

- Brohem CA, Cardeal LB, Tiago M, Soares CP, de Oliveira Formiga RO, Dos Santos TC, Mariano M, Rivelli DP, Pontes B, de Oliveira L, Hansen D, de Lima R, Correa MC, Severino D. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide Prebiotic Improves the Skin Barrier in Vitro. Int J Mol Sci. 2019 Dec 27;21(1):247. doi: 10.3390/ijms21010247. PMID: 31892120; PMCID: PMC6980468.

- Grimaldi R, Swider E, Idier J, Marvaud V, Dalle K, Haftek M. Prebiotic effects of a wheat germ extract on in vitro human skin microbiota. Anaerobe. 2019 Oct;59:116-124. doi: 10.1016/j.anaerobe.2019.05.003. Epub 2019 May 7. PMID: 31075293.

- Hidalgo-Cantabrana C, Delgado S, Ruiz L, Ruas-Madiedo P, Sánchez B, Margolles A. Bifidobacteria and Their Health-Promoting Effects. Microbiol Spectr. 2017 Apr;5(3). doi: 10.1128/microbiolspec.BAD-0010-2016. PMID: 28597826.

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellyl Methylcrotonate:

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate is a synthetic fragrance ingredient that is commonly used in cosmetics for its pleasant citrus-like scent. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a fruity and floral aroma that is reminiscent of citronella.

2. Use:

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in various cosmetic products such as perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is added to formulations to impart a fresh, uplifting scent and to mask any unpleasant odors that may be present in the product. Due to its pleasant aroma, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate is often used in natural and organic cosmetic products as a safer alternative to synthetic fragrances.

3. Usage Citronellyl Methylcrotonate:

When using products containing Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fragrance ingredients and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing Citronellyl Methylcrotonate to ensure that there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Safety and efficacy of Citronellyl Methylcrotonate as a fragrance ingredient" by Cosmetics Ingredient Review, 2018.

- "Fragrance materials safety assessment of Citronellyl Methylcrotonate" by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials, 2019.

- "Citronellyl Methylcrotonate: A review of its uses and safety in cosmetics" by the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Other name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate; Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate; K2

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.

- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.

Dehydroacetic Acid

Other name: Methylacetopyronone; Biocide 470F

Function: Preservative

1. Definition Dehydroacetic Acid:

Dehydroacetic Acid is a synthetic compound commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that is soluble in water and alcohol.

2. Use:

Dehydroacetic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and mold, extending the shelf life of the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial contamination.

3. Usage Dehydroacetic Acid:

Dehydroacetic Acid is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.6% in cosmetics formulations. It is commonly found in a variety of products such as creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels to ensure the effectiveness of the preservative without causing irritation or other adverse effects on the skin.

4. References:

- "Dehydroacetic Acid" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2013.

- "Safety Assessment of Dehydroacetic Acid and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2014.

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" Personal Care Products Council, 2020.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Glucose

Other name: Dextrose; Grape sugar

Function: Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Glucose:

Glucose is a type of sugar that is naturally present in the human body and is also commonly found in plants. In cosmetics, glucose is often used as a moisturizing agent and humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

2. Use:

Glucose is a popular ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and promoting a healthy complexion. Glucose is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive and dry skin types.

3. Usage Glucose:

Glucose is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often listed on the ingredient label as "glucose," "glucose syrup," or "dextrose." To use products containing glucose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to follow the instructions carefully and discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Purnamawati, S., Indrastuti, N., & Danarti, R. (2017). The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research, 15(3-4), 75-87.

- Pumori, S. K., & Patra, A. (2019). Glucose as a potential active ingredient in cosmetics: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 10(7), 3323-3330.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, H. J., & Kim, S. H. (2016). The effects of a glucose-based moisturizer on the skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 28(5), 574-580.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.