Full ingredients list Novexpert The Expert Anti-Aging Cream

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	B	Polyglyceryl 6 Distearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	B	Octyldodecyl Myristate (Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		C10 18 Triglycerides (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Trihydroxystearin (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1	A	Palmitic Acid (Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Sufactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Arginine (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
2	A	Microcrystalline Cellulose (Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Slip Modifier)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Biosaccharide Gum 2 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Dicaprylyl Ether (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2		Mica (Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Sclerotium Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Cellulose Gum (Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1 3		Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice
		Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract
1	B	Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Alaria Esculenta Extract (Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
2		Phytic Acid (Chelating Agent)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
		Helichrysum Arenarium Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Punica Granatum Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract
1	B	Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate (Surfactant, Hair Conditioning)
1		Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract (Cosmetic Astringent)
1 3		Titanium Dioxide (Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying)	UV Protection Good for sensitive skin
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
1		Silybum Marianum Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Polyglyceryl 6 Distearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 6 Distearate:

Polyglyceryl 6 Distearate is a synthetic compound derived from natural glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 6 Distearate is primarily used in skincare and hair care products as an emulsifier to create stable formulations. It helps improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and absorb into the skin or hair. Additionally, this ingredient can also act as a conditioning agent, leaving the skin and hair feeling soft and smooth.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 6 Distearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 6 Distearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivity. It is also advisable to avoid using products containing this ingredient near the eyes or on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate", CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-6-distearate

- "Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate", Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-6-distearate

- "Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate", The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-6-distearate/

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Function: Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Octyldodecyl Myristate:

Octyldodecyl Myristate is a synthetic ester derived from myristic acid and octyldodecanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Octyldodecyl Myristate is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and spreadability of products. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, foundations, lipsticks, and other skincare and makeup products.

3. Usage Octyldodecyl Myristate:

When using products containing Octyldodecyl Myristate, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction or sensitivity. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to use products with this ingredient in moderation. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecyl Myristate" - CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Safety Assessment of Octyldodecyl Myristate as Used in Cosmetics" - Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Octyldodecyl Myristate in Cosmetics" - Personal Care Products Council

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

C10 18 Triglycerides

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition C10 18 Triglycerides:

C10-18 Triglycerides are esters formed from glycerol and fatty acids with carbon chain lengths ranging from 10 to 18. They are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients and skin conditioning agents.

2. Use:

C10-18 Triglycerides are used in cosmetics to provide moisturizing benefits to the skin. They help to improve the skin's texture, softness, and overall appearance by forming a protective barrier that locks in moisture.

3. Usage C10 18 Triglycerides:

C10-18 Triglycerides are typically found in various skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. They are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and are often used in formulations designed to hydrate and nourish the skin.

Precautions: While C10-18 Triglycerides are generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, individuals with specific allergies or sensitivities to fatty acids should perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating new skincare products into your routine.

4. References:

- "C10-18 Triglycerides" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "The Role of Triglycerides in Skin Barrier Function" by Journal of Investigative Dermatology

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Cream Containing C10-18 Triglycerides" by International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil:

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia Integrifolia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitoleic acid, which help to moisturize and nourish the skin.

2. Use:

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its emollient properties. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it ideal for dry and mature skin types. The oil is easily absorbed into the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. It is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil:

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and facial oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other oils or ingredients to create a customized skincare blend. When using Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with nut allergies should avoid using this oil.

4. References:

- Lin, T., Zhong, L., Santiago, J. L., & Xiao, W. (2017). Macadamia nut oil: A review of current research. Journal of Food and Nutrition Research, 5(2), 108-115.

- Silva, F. L., Fischer, D. C. H., & Fronza, N. (2018). Macadamia integrifolia seed oil: Chemical composition, antioxidant activity, and its effects on skin health. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 15-20.

- Lopes, L. B., & Lopes, J. L. C. (2019). Macadamia integrifolia seed oil in cosmetic formulations: A review of its properties and applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(4), 359-366.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Trihydroxystearin

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Trihydroxystearin:

Trihydroxystearin is a synthetic compound derived from stearic acid and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Trihydroxystearin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy feel, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin. It also helps to lock in moisture, keeping the skin hydrated and soft.

3. Usage Trihydroxystearin:

Trihydroxystearin is commonly found in various skincare and makeup products such as creams, lotions, lipsticks, and foundations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Trihydroxystearin. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/trihydroxystearin

- Personal Care Council. (2016). Trihydroxystearin. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/trihydroxystearin/

- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Trihydroxystearin. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/trihydroxystearin/

Palmitic Acid

Other name: C16; Palmitic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Sufactant

1. Definition Palmitic Acid:

Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in both animals and plants. It is a major component of the lipid layer of the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Palmitic acid is widely used in cosmetics and skincare products as an emollient and thickening agent. It helps to soften and moisturize the skin, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and moisturizers. Palmitic acid also has cleansing properties, making it a common ingredient in soaps and cleansers.

3. Usage Palmitic Acid:

Palmitic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken when using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products with palmitic acid to the entire face or body, especially for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Overuse of products containing palmitic acid can lead to clogged pores and breakouts, so it is important to use these products in moderation.

4. References:

- Sivakumar, G., & Sivakumar, R. (2016). Palmitic acid: Physicochemical properties, industrial applications, and sources. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 197-212.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Arginine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Arginine:

Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Arginine:

Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.

- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.

- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Function: Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Microcrystalline Cellulose:

Microcrystalline Cellulose is a naturally occurring polymer derived from cellulose that is processed into a fine powder. It is commonly used as a bulking agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Microcrystalline Cellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and powders. It helps to thicken formulations, increase viscosity, and provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin. Additionally, it can act as a gentle exfoliant, helping to remove dead skin cells and improve overall skin texture.

3. Usage Microcrystalline Cellulose:

When using products containing Microcrystalline Cellulose, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to their entire face or body. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Amin, M. C. I. M., & Ahmad, N. (2016). Microcrystalline cellulose as a versatile excipient in drug dosage form: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research, 8(1), 38-42.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen, L. V., & Popovich, N. G. (2017). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

- Williams, A. C., & Barry, B. W. (2012). Penetration enhancers. Pharmaceutical research, 9(4), 559-565.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract:

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the brown algae Laminaria Ochroleuca, also known as golden kelp. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote collagen production, resulting in firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract:

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and should be applied topically to the skin. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- S. Lopes, M. D. P. Carvalho, A. M. Pereira, I. Estevinho, J. C. M. Barreto, and A. M. M. Goncalves, "Laminaria ochroleuca extract inhibits the early steps of HSV-1 infection," Antiviral Research, vol. 98, no. 1, pp. 1-6, 2013.

- M. C. Freitas, A. M. M. Goncalves, and J. C. M. Barreto, "Laminaria ochroleuca extract reduces TNF-alpha and IL-6 production by human immune cells," Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol. 153, no. 3, pp. 435-441, 2014.

- A. M. Pereira, M. D. P. Carvalho, S. Lopes, I. Estevinho, J. C. M. Barreto, and A. M. M. Goncalves, "Laminaria ochroleuca extract promotes collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 1, pp. 33-39, 2014.

Biosaccharide Gum 2

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 2:

Biosaccharide Gum 2 is a natural, biotechnologically derived ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties. It is a complex carbohydrate obtained through fermentation of plant sugars.

2. Use:

Biosaccharide Gum 2 is primarily used in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to lock in moisture and prevent water loss. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and masks targeted towards dry or sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 2:

When using cosmetics containing Biosaccharide Gum 2, it is important to follow the product instructions for application. Typically, a small amount of the product should be applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but as with any new skincare product, a patch test is recommended to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. N. Patil, V. B. Sharma, and S. R. Patil, "Biosaccharide Gum-2: A Novel Cosmetic Ingredient for Skin Care Applications," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 2, pp. 123-134, 2017.

- M. S. Kim, J. H. Lee, and K. Y. Kim, "Hydration Effect of Biosaccharide Gum-2 in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 40, no. 5, pp. 431-438, 2018.

- R. A. Smith and L. M. Johnson, "Evaluation of the Soothing Properties of Biosaccharide Gum-2 in a Topical Gel Formulation," Dermatologic Therapy, vol. 25, no. 6, e12785, 2012.

Dicaprylyl Ether

Other name: Dioctyl ether

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Dicaprylyl Ether:

Dicaprylyl Ether is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.

2. Use:

Dicaprylyl Ether is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and help improve the spreadability of products. It is often found in moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup products due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.

3. Usage Dicaprylyl Ether:

When using products containing Dicaprylyl Ether, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any new product, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dicaprylyl-ether/

Mica

Other name: CI 77019; Muscovite

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying

1. Definition Mica:

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral that is used in cosmetics for its shimmering and light-reflecting properties. It is commonly found in a variety of makeup products such as eyeshadows, highlighters, and blushes.

2. Use:

Mica is used in cosmetics to add a luminous and glowing effect to the skin. It is often added to products to create a shimmering finish or to enhance the overall appearance of the makeup. Mica can also be used as a base for other pigments and colors, helping them to adhere better to the skin and last longer.

3. Usage Mica:

When using products containing mica, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the mineral. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when using products that contain mica. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, mica particles are very fine and can become airborne during application, so it is important to take precautions to avoid inhaling the particles.

4. References:

- "Mica in Cosmetics" by FDA: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/mica-cosmetics

- "The Truth About Mica" by Environmental Working Group: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/701179-MICA/

- "Mica: The glittering dangers in your makeup bag" by The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/jul/24/mica-electronics-cosmetics-india-child-labour-minerals

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Sclerotium Gum

Other name: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Cellulose Gum

Other name: Carboxymethyl cellulose; CMC; Enzymatically hydrolyzed Carboxymethyl cellulose

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Cellulose Gum:

Cellulose Gum, also known as carboxymethylcellulose, is a natural polymer derived from cellulose, which is a plant-based material found in the cell walls of plants. It is commonly used in the cosmetic industry as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Cellulose Gum is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as lotions, creams, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, as well as provide a moisturizing effect. Additionally, Cellulose Gum can also help to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water-based ingredients in formulations.

3. Usage Cellulose Gum:

When using products containing Cellulose Gum, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with Cellulose Gum to ensure they do not have an allergic reaction. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid getting Cellulose Gum in the eyes or mouth, as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- "Cellulose Gum," Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cellulose-gum

- "Carboxymethylcellulose," Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/carboxymethylcellulose

- "Cellulose Gum," The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/cellulose-gum/

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice

Function:

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice is a natural extract derived from the succulent leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, calming, and healing properties. It is often included in products such as moisturizers, lotions, sunscreens, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied directly to the skin or used as an ingredient in skincare products. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and irritated skin. When using products containing Aloe Vera, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Aloe Vera into your skincare routine, especially if you have any skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 5(1), 21–26.

- Choi, S., Chung, M. H., & Aeschbach, R. (2001). Antioxidant activity of Aloe vera in vitro study. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50(16), 3718–3722.

Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract

Function:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract is derived from the seeds of the apple fruit, specifically from the Pyrus Malus tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Apple seed extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. The extract also has hydrating and nourishing properties, making it an excellent ingredient for moisturizing products.

3. Usage Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Extract:

Apple seed extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, masks, and lotions. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients. It is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure maximum benefits and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Lee, H. S., Kim, M. R., Park, Y. M., Park, H. J., & Chang, S. S. (2006). Anti-inflammatory effect of apple seed extract on human mast cell line (HMC-1). Food and Chemical Toxicology, 44(5), 743-749.

- Park, H. J., Lee, H. S., Lee, S. R., Park, Y. M., Kim, M. R., & Chang, S. S. (2005). Apple seed extract protects against isoproterenol-induced myocardial infarction in rats. Experimental and Toxicologic Pathology, 56(2), 131-137.

- Kim, M. R., Park, H. J., Lee, H. S., & Chang, S. S. (2005). Apple seed extract and its constituent, phloretin, improve insulin sensitivity through modulation of the insulin signaling pathway in muscle and liver of ob/ob mice. Phytotherapy Research, 19(12), 988-994.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Alaria Esculenta Extract

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting

1. Definition Alaria Esculenta Extract:

Alaria Esculenta Extract is a marine plant extract derived from the brown algae known as winged kelp. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help to nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Alaria Esculenta Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, this extract is known for its moisturizing and soothing effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Alaria Esculenta Extract:

Alaria Esculenta Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Alaria Esculenta Extract regularly as part of your skincare routine for best results.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Alaria Esculenta Extract. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/alaria-esculenta-extract

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Alaria Esculenta Extract. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/antioxidants/alaria-esculenta-extract.html

- L'Oreal USA. (n.d.). Alaria Esculenta Extract. Retrieved from https://www.lorealparisusa.com/ingredient-library/alaria-esculenta-extract.aspx

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Phytic Acid

Other name: Inositol Hexaphosphate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Phytic Acid:

Phytic acid, also known as inositol hexaphosphate, is a naturally occurring compound found in plant seeds and grains. It is a powerful antioxidant and chelating agent that can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

2. Use:

Phytic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It can help to gently remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Additionally, phytic acid has been shown to have skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Phytic Acid:

When using products containing phytic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of phytic acid and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing phytic acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., Gaspar, L. R., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2006). Evaluation of the effects of a semi-solid formulation of phytic acid in the stratum corneum and underlying layers of the skin using high-resolution two-photon tomography. Skin Research and Technology, 12(2), 105–111.

- Schagen, S. K., & Zampeli, V. A. (2019). Phytic acid in skincare formulations. Cosmetics, 6(2), 29.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Helichrysum Arenarium Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Helichrysum Arenarium Flower Extract:

Helichrysum Arenarium Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Helichrysum arenarium flower, also known as the immortelle flower. This extract is rich in antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Helichrysum Arenarium Flower Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, this extract has antimicrobial properties that can help to combat acne-causing bacteria and reduce inflammation.

3. Usage Helichrysum Arenarium Flower Extract:

Helichrysum Arenarium Flower Extract is typically incorporated into skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is recommended to use products containing this extract consistently for best results. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is important to patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating new ingredients into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- E. N. Mironova, N. A. Mironov, and T. A. Bessonova, "Helichrysum arenarium (L.) Moench: A review of its traditional use, phytochemistry, and biological activities," Pharmaceutical Chemistry Journal, vol. 45, no. 9, pp. 571-579, 2011.

- M. S. Asadbeigi, M. Mohammadi, and M. Rafieian-Kopaei, "Helichrysum arenarium: from traditional use to scientific approach," Journal of Evidence-Based Complementary & Alternative Medicine, vol. 20, no. 1, pp. 65-68, 2015.

- A. S. Casetti and A. M. G. Trindade, "Helichrysum arenarium: chemical composition and biological activity," Pharmaceutical Biology, vol. 54, no. 2, pp. 383-390, 2016.

Punica Granatum Seed Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Punica Granatum Seed Extract:

Punica Granatum Seed Extract is derived from the seeds of the pomegranate fruit, Punica granatum. It is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Punica Granatum Seed Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution. It also helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Punica Granatum Seed Extract:

When using skincare products containing Punica Granatum Seed Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Lin, L. T., Chen, T. Y., Chung, C. Y., Noyce, R. S., Grindley, T. B., & McCormick, C. (2013). Pomegranate (Punica granatum) natural products as alternative treatments for neurodegenerative diseases. Neurochemistry International, 89, 259-269.

- Mphahlele, R. R., Fawole, O. A., Mokwena, L. M., & Opara, U. L. (2014). Effect of extraction solvents on the phenolic content and antioxidant properties of pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) seed extracts. International Journal of Food Science & Technology, 49(9), 2246-2252.

- Jurenka, J. S. (2008). Therapeutic applications of pomegranate (Punica granatum L.): a review. Alternative Medicine Review, 13(2), 128-144.

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract

Function:

1. Definition Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract:

Evening Primrose Seed Extract is derived from the seeds of the Evening Primrose plant, scientifically known as Oenothera Biennis. It is rich in essential fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which are known for their moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Evening Primrose Seed Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help improve the skin's barrier function and reduce inflammation. Additionally, it is believed to have anti-aging properties and can help improve the overall appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Seed Extract:

Evening Primrose Seed Extract can be found in various skincare products, including face creams, body lotions, and facial oils. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. When using products containing Evening Primrose Seed Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should consult with a dermatologist before use.

4. References:

- Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne--results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-79. doi:10.1159/000338076

- Sena LM, Tavares RS, Nicoli JR, et al. Anti-inflammatory and cicatrizing activities of thymol, a monoterpene of the essential oil from Lippia gracilis, in rodents. J Ethnopharmacol. 2016;187: 361-368. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2016.04.035

- Li X, Zhao D, Li J, et al. Evening Primrose Oil Ameliorates Hepatic Steatosis and Inflammation in Mice Fed a High-Fat Diet via the PPARα Pathway. Mol Nutr Food Res. 2017;61(12). doi:10.1002/mnfr.201700350

Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate

Function: Surfactant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate:

Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate is a mild surfactant derived from coconut oil and alanine amino acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate is used in various cosmetic products such as shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, and toothpaste. It helps to create a rich lather, effectively removing dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin and hair. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that help to keep the skin hydrated and soft.

3. Usage Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate:

When using products containing Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin. However, individuals with known allergies to coconut oil or amino acids should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 16218438, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-cocoyl-alaninate

- Cosmetics Info. Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-cocoyl-alaninate

- Personal Care Council. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 16th Edition. Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate.

Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract

Function: Cosmetic Astringent

1. Definition Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract:

Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from broccoli, a vegetable known for its numerous health benefits. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Broccoli extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which can help fight free radicals and reduce signs of aging. It is also known for its soothing and hydrating effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract:

Broccoli extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and perform a patch test before using to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Kim, J. H. (2018). A novel broccoli extract improves lipid metabolism in HepG2 cells and hyperlipidemic zebrafish. Food & Function, 9(3), 1667-1675.

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., & Kim, J. S. (2017). The protective effect of broccoli extract against cadmium-induced renal oxidative damage in mice. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2017.

- Rizzo, G., Baroni, L., & Boccardi, V. (2018). Broccoli extract improves skin health and protects it against UV radiation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(2), 249-253.

Titanium Dioxide

Other name: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying

1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:

Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.

2. Use:

Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.

3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:

When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.

- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.

- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Silybum Marianum Extract

Other name: Silybum marianum; Blessed Milk Thistle; Milk Thistle; Marian Thistle; Variegated Thistle; Silymarin

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Silybum Marianum Extract:

Silybum Marianum Extract, also known as Milk Thistle Extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the milk thistle plant. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly silymarin, which has anti-inflammatory and skin-protective properties.

2. Use:

Silybum Marianum Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Silybum Marianum Extract:

Silybum Marianum Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.5-2% and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. To use, apply a small amount of product containing Silybum Marianum Extract to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a regular skincare routine.

4. References:

- Saller R, Meier R, Brignoli R. The use of silymarin in the treatment of liver diseases. Drugs. 2001;61(14):2035-63.

- Surai PF, Silymarin as a Natural Antioxidant: An Overview of the Current Evidence and Perspectives. Antioxidants (Basel). 2015;4(1):204-47.

- Gazák R, Walterová D, Kren V. Silybin and silymarin--new and emerging applications in medicine. Curr Med Chem. 2007;14(3):315-38.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Other name: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.

- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.