Full ingredients list pH Formula MD CR Active Recovery

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Lactobionic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging
1 3	B	Steareth 2 (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
3	A	Cyclopentasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Silicone
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2	A	Cyclohexasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1 3	B	Steareth 21 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
3	B	Polysorbate 80 (Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Antioxidant)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Skin Conditioning)
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Fructose (Humectant, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Glucose (Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous)
1	A	Sorbitan Oleate (Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1 2	A	Dipropylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
4		Perfluorodecalin (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Detangling)
1	A	Sclerotium Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Dextrin (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Absorbent, Bulking Agent)
1	A	Sucrose (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Flavoring Agent)
1 3	A	Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
9	A	Retinol (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Brightening Acne fighting
1		Boswellia Serrata Gum (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming, Film Forming, Tonic)
1	A	Isomalt (Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent)
1		Sorbitol (Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer)
1	A	Alanine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Aspartic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Glutamic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1		Hexyl Nicotinate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
5 6		Bha (Masking, Antioxidant)
		Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1	A	Oleic Acid (Fragrance, Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2		CI 77491 (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Lactobionic Acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Lactobionic Acid:

Lactobionic Acid is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) derived from lactose, a sugar found in milk. It is a gentle exfoliant and antioxidant that helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin.

2. Use:

Lactobionic Acid is commonly used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to exfoliate the skin, promote cell turnover, and increase collagen production. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, as it is less irritating than other AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) due to its larger molecular size.

3. Usage Lactobionic Acid:

Lactobionic Acid can be incorporated into a skincare routine by using products containing this ingredient once or twice a week. It is important to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase frequency and concentration as needed. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using products with Lactobionic Acid to protect the skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Obagi ZE, Basara ML, Yatskayer M, DeNoble L, Draelos ZD. An open-label clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of a 20% lactobionic acid peel in the treatment of epidermal melasma. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(6):1121-1126.

- Bae JH, Lee YJ, Park JK, et al. Efficacy and safety of a novel lactobionic acid cream in the treatment of melasma. J Dermatolog Treat. 2019;30(1):33-38.

- Kim JH, Kim DH, Byun HJ, Park SH, Moon SH, Shin J. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy and safety of lactobionic acid cream in the treatment of melasma. J Dermatolog Treat. 2020;31(3):250-255.

Steareth 2

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Steareth 2:

Steareth-2 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Steareth-2 is used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension of liquids, allowing them to spread more easily.

3. Usage Steareth 2:

Steareth-2 is commonly found in creams, lotions, and makeup products as it helps to stabilize the formula and improve its texture. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

Precautions: While Steareth-2 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to read the ingredient list of products before use and to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Steareth-2. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/steareth-2

- Personal Care Council. (2006). Steareth-2. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/steareth-2/

- Environmental Working Group. (n.d.). Steareth-2. Retrieved from https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706778-STEARETH-2/

Cyclopentasiloxane

Other name: Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopenasiloxane; BRB CM 50

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclopentasiloxane:

Cyclopentasiloxane is a type of silicone commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products.

2. Use:

Cyclopentasiloxane is often used in skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, primers, and hair conditioners. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin and hair, making it easier to apply and blend other ingredients.

3. Usage Cyclopentasiloxane:

When using products containing Cyclopentasiloxane, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product with Cyclopentasiloxane, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.

- Lefebvre, M. A., Pham, D. M., Boussouira, B., & Bernard, D. (2015). Camouflaging of androgenetic alopecia: dermatological and cosmetic approaches. Skin Research and Technology, 21(4), 219-227.

- Mavon, A., Miquel, C., Lejeune, O., Payre, B., & Moret, N. (2015). In vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo stratum corneum distribution of an organic and a mineral sunscreen. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(5), 266-275.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Cyclohexasiloxane

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone compound commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and solvent. It is a cyclic siloxane with six silicon atoms and twelve oxygen atoms in its chemical structure.

2. Use:

Cyclohexasiloxane is used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhance the overall texture. Additionally, it can act as a carrier for other active ingredients, helping them penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is typically found in various skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer. Some studies suggest that prolonged exposure to high concentrations of cyclohexasiloxane may have potential environmental and health concerns, so it is advisable to use products containing this ingredient in moderation.

4. References:

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2017). Safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 36(1_suppl), 3S-19S.

- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2015). Opinion on cyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexamethylsiloxane) (D6). SCCS/1549/14.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and cyclotetrasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 27, 87-110.

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Anticaking Agent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps to improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, sunscreens, and hair care products. It helps to enhance the viscosity of the product, improve its spreadability, and provide a smooth and luxurious feel to the skin or hair.

3. Usage Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Polymer Chemistry: The Basic Concepts" by Paul C. Hiemenz and Timothy P. Lodge

- "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology" edited by André O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

Steareth 21

Other name: Brij 721

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Steareth 21:

Steareth-21 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, commonly used as an emulsifier and surfactant in cosmetics. It helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients in formulations, improve texture, and stabilize the product.

2. Use:

Steareth-21 is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It helps to create smooth and stable emulsions, enhance the spreadability of products on the skin, and improve the overall texture and feel of the formulation.

3. Usage Steareth 21:

When using products containing Steareth-21, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

Precautions: While Steareth-21 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. It is important to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reaction occurs. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to consult with a healthcare professional if you have any concerns about using products containing Steareth-21.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5362440, Steareth-21. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/5362440

- Environmental Working Group. Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database. Steareth-21. https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/704962-STEARETH-21/

- Personal Care Council. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 16th Edition. Steareth-21.

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Polysorbate 80

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan Monooleate; Polysorbate 80; Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate

Function: Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 80:

Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic compound that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 80 is used in cosmetics to help ingredients mix together that would otherwise separate, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize and improve the texture of products like creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can act as a dispersing agent, helping to evenly distribute pigments in makeup products.

3. Usage Polysorbate 80:

When using cosmetics containing Polysorbate 80, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or reactions when using products with this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Lodeiro, P., Barros, M. A., & Schapoval, E. E. (2013). Evaluation of the in vitro cytotoxicity and in vivo anti-inflammatory effects of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug formulated in polysorbate 80-containing nanoemulsions. Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences, 16(4), 549-563.

- Gao, Z., & Li, Y. (2013). Preparation and evaluation of polysorbate 80-coated PLGA nanoparticles for oral delivery of anticancer drugs. Drug development and industrial pharmacy, 39(3), 499-506.

- Murali, S., & Bharath, S. (2014). Formulation and evaluation of polysorbate 80 stabilized curcumin loaded PLGA nanoparticles for the treatment of breast cancer. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(10), 4434-4444.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable derivative of Vitamin C, commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.

2. Use:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is often included in cosmetic formulations to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is also known for its ability to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

When using skincare products containing Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of product is applied to clean, dry skin in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product recommendations. It is important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Vitamin C derivatives to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Telang, P. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Other name: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycina; AZELOGLICINA; Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It is commonly used in skincare products for its brightening, exfoliating, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a skin brightening agent. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm redness and irritation in the skin.

3. Usage Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate:

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions targeted towards individuals looking to improve the appearance of their skin. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any concerns about using this ingredient.

4. References:

- Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765. Epub 2015 Aug 7. PMID: 26347269; PMCID: PMC4554394.

- Dall'Oglio F, Tedeschi A, Fino P, Lacarrubba F, Dinotta F, Bongiorno MR, Aricò M. A new topical azelaic acid foam: treatment for acne. Expert Opin Pharmacother. 2013 Nov;14(16):2271-9. doi: 10.1517/14656566.2013.844174. Epub 2013 Oct 9. PMID: 24102681.

- Grimes PE. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial-ethnic groups. Dermatol Surg. 1999 Jan;25(1):18-22. doi: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.1999.08164.x. PMID: 9935084.

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Fructose

Function: Humectant, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Fructose:

Fructose is a natural sugar found in fruits, honey, and vegetables. It is a simple carbohydrate that is commonly used as a sweetening agent in various food products and beverages.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, fructose is often used as a humectant, which helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It is also used as a natural exfoliant, helping to remove dead skin cells and promote a smoother complexion.

3. Usage Fructose:

Fructose is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it helps to hydrate the skin and improve its overall texture. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing fructose to their face.

Precautions: While fructose is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, individuals with fructose intolerance or allergies may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products containing fructose. It is always recommended to read the ingredient list carefully and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using fructose in your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- Rebecca James Gadberry. (2009). "Milady's Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary." Cengage Learning.

- Michael Ash and Irene Ash. (2007). "Handbook of Preservatives." Synapse Info Resources.

Glucose

Other name: Dextrose; Grape sugar

Function: Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Glucose:

Glucose is a type of sugar that is naturally present in the human body and is also commonly found in plants. In cosmetics, glucose is often used as a moisturizing agent and humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

2. Use:

Glucose is a popular ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and promoting a healthy complexion. Glucose is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive and dry skin types.

3. Usage Glucose:

Glucose is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often listed on the ingredient label as "glucose," "glucose syrup," or "dextrose." To use products containing glucose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to follow the instructions carefully and discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Purnamawati, S., Indrastuti, N., & Danarti, R. (2017). The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research, 15(3-4), 75-87.

- Pumori, S. K., & Patra, A. (2019). Glucose as a potential active ingredient in cosmetics: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 10(7), 3323-3330.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, H. J., & Kim, S. H. (2016). The effects of a glucose-based moisturizer on the skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 28(5), 574-580.

Sorbitan Oleate

Function: Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Oleate:

Sorbitan Oleate is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Oleate is used in cosmetics to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to create a smooth texture and prevent separation of ingredients.

3. Usage Sorbitan Oleate:

When using cosmetics containing Sorbitan Oleate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and experience allergic reactions or skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Sorbitan Oleate to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Sorbitan Oleate" in the Cosmetics Info database. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-oleate

- "Safety Assessment of Sorbitan Esters as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/sorbitan%20esters.pdf

- "Sorbitan Oleate" in the Personal Care Products Council's Ingredient Database. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredients-dictionary/sorbitan-oleate

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Dipropylene Glycol

Other name: DPG

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Dipropylene Glycol:

Dipropylene Glycol is a type of glycol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is soluble in water and has a low volatility.

2. Use:

Dipropylene Glycol is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, improve the texture of products, and increase the moisture content of formulations. It is commonly found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup.

3. Usage Dipropylene Glycol:

When using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: While Dipropylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Dipropylene Glycol, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dipropylene-glycol

- "Safety Assessment of Dipropylene Glycol" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/dipropylene_glycol.pdf

- "Dipropylene Glycol in Cosmetics" Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource-center/dipropylene-glycol-in-cosmetics

Perfluorodecalin

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Detangling

1. Definition Perfluorodecalin:

Perfluorodecalin is a synthetic fluorinated liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to dissolve and deliver oxygen to the skin. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic liquid that is often found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks.

2. Use:

Perfluorodecalin is used in cosmetics primarily for its skin oxygenation properties. It helps to improve the skin's ability to absorb oxygen, which can lead to a more radiant and youthful complexion. Additionally, it can help to hydrate and nourish the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and moisturizing products.

3. Usage Perfluorodecalin:

When using cosmetics containing Perfluorodecalin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for use on all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. As with any skincare product, if any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- S. K. Jain, R. S. Duvall, and N. L. Friesen, "Synthesis and characterization of perfluorodecalin-based oxygen carriers," Biomaterials, vol. 25, no. 18, pp. 4837-4846, 2004.

- M. H. H. N. Assadian, J. A. Assadian, and A. W. Neumeister, "In vivo evaluation of perfluorodecalin-filled silicone membranes for the treatment of full-thickness skin defects," Wound Repair and Regeneration, vol. 14, no. 3, pp. 363-368, 2006.

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M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D. M. A. K. G. M. S. M. D

Sclerotium Gum

Other name: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

Dextrin

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Absorbent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Dextrin:

Dextrin is a carbohydrate that is derived from starch, typically corn, wheat, or potato. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a binding agent, emulsifier, or thickener.

2. Use:

Dextrin is often utilized in cosmetics as a binding agent to help ingredients adhere to the skin or hair. It can also be found in hair products to provide hold and structure. Additionally, dextrin is used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. In some cases, it is included in cosmetics as a thickener to give products a more luxurious texture.

3. Usage Dextrin:

When using cosmetics containing dextrin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing dextrin to a larger area of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Dextrin in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/dextrin

- "The Role of Dextrin in Cosmetic Formulations" by Cosmetics & Toiletries, https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/haircare/The-Role-of-Dextrin-in-Cosmetic-Formulations-574049311.html

- "Dextrin: The Versatile Cosmetic Ingredient" by Personal Care Magazine, https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/10167/dextrin-the-versatile-cosmetic-ingredient

Sucrose

Other name: Saccarose

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sucrose:

Sucrose is a naturally occurring disaccharide made up of glucose and fructose molecules. It is commonly known as table sugar and is often used in the food industry as a sweetener. In cosmetics, sucrose is used for its exfoliating properties and ability to help hydrate and soften the skin.

2. Use:

Sucrose is commonly used in cosmetic products such as scrubs, masks, and cleansers to help slough off dead skin cells and reveal smoother, brighter skin. Its small granules provide gentle physical exfoliation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Sucrose is also known for its humectant properties, helping to draw moisture into the skin and maintain hydration levels.

3. Usage Sucrose:

When using cosmetics containing sucrose, it is important to be mindful of the potential for over-exfoliation. While sucrose is a gentle exfoliant, using it too frequently or vigorously can lead to irritation and damage to the skin barrier. It is recommended to use products containing sucrose 1-2 times per week, depending on individual skin sensitivity. Additionally, it is important to follow up with a moisturizer to replenish lost hydration after exfoliation.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Crown.

Urea

Other name: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Urea:

Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

3. Usage Urea:

When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Retinol

Other name: Vitamin A1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinol:

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

2. Use:

Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.

3. Usage Retinol:

When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

See more: Retinol

Boswellia Serrata Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming, Film Forming, Tonic

1. Definition Boswellia Serrata Gum:

Boswellia Serrata Gum, also known as Indian frankincense, is a resin extracted from the Boswellia tree native to India, Africa, and the Middle East. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Boswellia Serrata Gum is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks, targeting issues like redness, acne, and wrinkles.

3. Usage Boswellia Serrata Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Boswellia Serrata Gum, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to check for any allergic reactions. It is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Siddiqui, M. Z. (2011). Boswellia serrata, a potential antiinflammatory agent: an overview. Indian journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 73(3), 255–261.

- Gupta, I., Parihar, A., Malhotra, P., Gupta, S., Lüdtke, R., Safayhi, H., & Ammon, H. P. (1997). Effects of Boswellia serrata gum resin in patients with bronchial asthma: results of a double-blind, placebo-controlled, 6-week clinical study. European journal of medical research, 2(1), 37–43.

- Ammon, H. P. T. (2010). Boswellic acids in chronic inflammatory diseases. Planta medica, 76(09), 1–10.

Isomalt

Other name: Hydrogenated isomaltulose

Function: Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Isomalt:

Isomalt is a sugar substitute derived from beet sugar. It is a versatile ingredient that is commonly used in the food industry as a sweetener, but it also has applications in cosmetics due to its humectant properties.

2. Use:

Isomalt is used in cosmetics as a humectant, which means it helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. This can help to improve the hydration levels of the skin and prevent dryness. Isomalt is often found in moisturizers, creams, and lotions, where it can help to keep the skin feeling soft and smooth.

3. Usage Isomalt:

When using cosmetics containing isomalt, it is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging. It is generally safe for use on the skin, but some individuals may be sensitive to isomalt and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new cosmetic product to check for any potential reactions. Additionally, it is important to store cosmetics containing isomalt in a cool, dry place to maintain their stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Li, X., Liu, Y., Song, A., & Dong, L. (2019). Application of Isomalt in Cosmetics. Chemical Industry and Engineering Progress, 38(12), 4857-4862.

- Lin, Y., Chen, Z., & Li, B. (2017). Isomalt: A Versatile Ingredient in Cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 211-220.

- Wang, J., Zhang, L., & Liu, S. (2020). The Role of Isomalt in Skin Care Products. Journal of Dermatological Science, 96(1), 45-51.

Sorbitol

Other name: D-Glucitol

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer

1. Definition Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and thickening agent. It is a naturally occurring substance found in fruits and plants, but can also be produced synthetically.

2. Use:

Sorbitol is used in cosmetics to help attract moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Sorbitol also has emollient properties, which help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of up to 10% in skincare products. However, some individuals may be sensitive to sorbitol and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing sorbitol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5780, Sorbitol. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sorbitol

- Cosmetics Info. Sorbitol. https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitol

- Personal Care Council. Sorbitol. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sorbitol

Alanine

Other name: Alanine Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Alanine:

Alanine is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and is important for maintaining overall health and well-being.

2. Use:

Alanine is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin, making it look smoother and more radiant. Alanine also has moisturizing properties, helping to keep the skin hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Alanine:

Alanine is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams. It is safe for topical use and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing alanine to check for any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, S., Lee, J., & Kim, M. K. (2017). The effects of alanine on skin health and beauty. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(4), 235-241.

- Choi, H. S., Kim, J. H., & Park, H. J. (2019). Alanine as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 153-159.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. S. (2020). Potential benefits of alanine in skincare formulations. Journal of Dermatological Science, 98(3), 189-195.

Aspartic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Aspartic Acid:

Aspartic Acid, also known as aspartate, is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins and is involved in the urea cycle, which helps to remove ammonia from the body.

2. Use:

Aspartic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity and firmness, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging creams and serums. Aspartic Acid also has exfoliating properties, helping to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover for a brighter complexion.

3. Usage Aspartic Acid:

Aspartic Acid can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is safe for most skin types. However, it is important to patch test products containing Aspartic Acid before use, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. It is also recommended to use sunscreen when using products with Aspartic Acid, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- S. J. Kim, et al. (2009). The effect of aspartic acid on the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 60(3), 285-292.

- M. R. Oliveira, et al. (2017). Aspartic Acid as a potential anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(5), 497-503.

- R. M. Silva, et al. (2015). Formulation and evaluation of a moisturizing cream containing aspartic acid. Journal of Dermatological Science, 45(2), 143-149.

Glutamic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Glutamic Acid:

Glutamic acid, also known as L-glutamic acid, is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in various physiological functions, including protein synthesis and neurotransmission.

2. Use:

Glutamic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning and moisturizing properties. It is known to help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall texture. Additionally, glutamic acid is believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Glutamic Acid:

Glutamic acid is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging treatments. It is safe for topical application, but it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the product manufacturer. As with any skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing glutamic acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon HS, Kim JY, Kim MH, Kim KH, Lee DH, Lee AY. The effects of glutamic acid on the skin condition. Ann Dermatol. 2014 Dec;26(6):723-8.

- Lee YB, Kim HR, Kim SY, Kim YC. Protective effects of glutamic acid on UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Mol Med Rep. 2017 Jun;15(6):4135-4140.

- Lin TK, Lin CH, Chou P, Shih YJ. The anti-inflammatory effects of L-glutamic acid on lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells. Food Funct. 2016 Aug 10;7(8):3472-3478.

Hexyl Nicotinate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Hexyl Nicotinate:

Hexyl Nicotinate is a derivative of niacin (vitamin B3) that is commonly used in cosmetics for its vasodilating properties. It is a skin-conditioning agent that helps to improve blood circulation and enhance the delivery of nutrients to the skin.

2. Use:

Hexyl Nicotinate is often included in skincare products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to increase blood flow to the skin, which can result in a temporary warming sensation and a rosy flush. This increased circulation can help to plump up the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a healthy, radiant complexion.

3. Usage Hexyl Nicotinate:

When using products containing Hexyl Nicotinate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions. Some individuals may experience a mild tingling or flushing sensation upon application, which is normal and should subside within a few minutes. It is also important to avoid using Hexyl Nicotinate products on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Hexyl Nicotinate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyl-nicotinate

- The Derm Review. (2017). Hexyl Nicotinate. https://thedermreview.com/hexyl-nicotinate/

- Truth In Aging. (2019). Hexyl Nicotinate. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/hexyl-nicotinate

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Bha

Other name: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid

Function: Masking, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bha:

BHA, or beta hydroxy acid, is a type of chemical exfoliant commonly used in skincare products. It is oil-soluble, making it ideal for penetrating deep into the pores to unclog them and exfoliate dead skin cells.

2. Use:

BHA is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products to treat acne, blackheads, and other skin concerns related to clogged pores. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it effective in reducing redness and inflammation associated with acne.

3. Usage Bha:

When using products containing BHA, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. BHA can increase sun sensitivity, so it is essential to use sunscreen daily when incorporating BHA into your skincare routine. It is recommended to use BHA products in the evening to allow for maximum effectiveness without the risk of increased sun sensitivity.

4. References:

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455-461.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

See more: Bha

Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract:

Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract is a plant-derived ingredient that is obtained from the callus culture of the Argania Spinosa tree, also known as the Argan tree. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. In haircare products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract:

Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract is typically found in creams, serums, lotions, and hair treatments. It is recommended to use products containing this extract as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. Avoid contact with eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Bouhaddou, B., et al. (2016). Argan oil: which benefits on skin diseases? European Journal of Dermatology, 26(4), 311-315.

- Charrouf, Z., & Guillaume, D. (2008). Ethnoeconomical, ethnomedical, and phytochemical study of Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 118(2), 264-271.

- Meziane, R. K., et al. (2018). Argan oil and other argan products: use in dermocosmetology. European Journal of Dermatology, 28(1), 18-22.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Oleic Acid

Other name: Omega 9

Function: Fragrance, Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Oleic Acid:

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid commonly found in various plant and animal sources, such as olive oil, avocado oil, and animal fats. It is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Oleic acid is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin soft and supple. Oleic acid is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help to soothe and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Oleic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing oleic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with oleic acid on a larger area of the skin. Additionally, it is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and usage to ensure optimal results.

4. References:

- Sivakumar G, Jeong YJ, Kim SH. Oleic acid: structural and functional roles in the skin. Lipids Health Dis. 2018;17(1):1-7. doi: 10.1186/s12944-018-0775-6.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70. doi: 10.3390/ijms19010070.

CI 77491

Other name: Pigment Red 101; Iron oxide Red; Red Iron oxide; Red Oxide of Iron

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 77491:

CI 77491 is a cosmetic colorant that is also known as Iron Oxide Red. It is a red pigment that is commonly used in makeup products such as eyeshadows, blushes, and lipsticks.

2. Use:

CI 77491 is used in cosmetics to provide a red color to the product. It is often used in combination with other colorants to create various shades of red. This pigment is known for its stability and ability to blend well with other ingredients, making it a popular choice for formulators.

3. Usage CI 77491:

When using products containing CI 77491, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Iron Oxides in Cosmetics" by U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

- "Safety Assessment of Iron Oxides as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)

- "Iron Oxides: A Safe Cosmetic Ingredient" by Personal Care Products Council (PCPC)