Academie Hypo-Sensible Program For Redness - Ingredient Explanation
Other Names: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua
Function: Solvent
1. Definition Water:
Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.
2. Use:
Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.
3. Usage Water:
When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.
- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.
- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.
Other Names: Isooctadecyl isooctadecanoate
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Binding Agent, Binding
1. Definition Isostearyl Isostearate:
Isostearyl Isostearate is a synthetic ester derived from isostearic acid and isostearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier.
2. Use:
Isostearyl Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent to help soften and smooth the skin. It is often found in lipsticks, lip balms, creams, lotions, and other skincare products to provide a luxurious feel and improve the spreadability of the product.
3. Usage Isostearyl Isostearate:
When using products containing Isostearyl Isostearate, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with this ingredient into their skincare routine.
4. References:
- "Isostearyl Isostearate" by Cosmeticsinfo.org
- "Safety Assessment of Isostearyl Isostearate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Isostearyl Isostearate in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Camelina Sativa Seed Oil:
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, also known as Gold of Pleasure or false flax, is a cold-pressed oil derived from the seeds of the Camelina Sativa plant. It is rich in essential fatty acids, including omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9, as well as antioxidants and vitamins E and K.
2. Use:
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, promote elasticity, and improve the overall texture of the skin. In haircare products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reduce frizz, and add shine.
3. Usage Camelina Sativa Seed Oil:
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations, including creams, lotions, serums, balms, and hair masks. It can be used alone as a facial oil or added to existing products to boost their moisturizing properties. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to prevent oxidation.
4. References:
- Jensen GS, Attridge VL, Beaman JL, Guthrie J, Ehret DL. Anti-inflammatory properties of a medical food. Nutrition Journal. 2006;5:15. doi:10.1186/1475-2891-5-15
- Johnson GH, Fritsche KL. Effect of dietary linoleic acid on markers of inflammation in healthy persons: a systematic review of randomized controlled trials. Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. 2012;112(7):1029-1041.e15. doi:10.1016/j.jand.2012.03.029
- Callaway JC. Hempseed as a nutritional resource: an overview. Euphytica. 2004;140(1-2):65-72. doi:10.1007/s10681-004-4811-6
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter:
Mango seed butter is a natural butter extracted from the seeds of the mango fruit (Mangifera Indica). It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins A and E, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.
2. Use:
Mango seed butter is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, mango seed butter can help to condition and strengthen the hair, reduce frizz, and promote healthy hair growth.
3. Usage Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter:
Mango seed butter can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including lotions, creams, balms, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. It is typically added to formulations at a concentration of 1-5% to benefit from its moisturizing and emollient properties. When using mango seed butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility and to avoid any potential allergic reactions.
4. References:
- Akhtar, N., & Khan, B. A. (2017). Formulation and evaluation of mango butter-based cosmetic emulsions. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(2), 93-102.
- Jamil, W., & Al-Asmari, A. K. (2019). Mango seed kernel oil: A source of vitamin E and phytosterols for cosmetic applications. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(1), 31-43.
- Silva, M. R., et al. (2018). Mango seed oil: Characterization, processing, and application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 217-229.
Other Names: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol
Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
1. Definition Propanediol:
Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.
2. Use:
Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.
3. Usage Propanediol:
Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.
4. References:
- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.
- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.
- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.
Other Names: Stearic Acid; Octadecanoic Acid; C18
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Hexyldecyl Stearate:
Hexyldecyl Stearate is a synthetic ester derived from stearic acid and hexyldecyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Hexyldecyl Stearate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and moisturizers. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, providing a luxurious and silky feel to the product. Additionally, it acts as a lubricant, allowing for easy application and spreadability of the product on the skin.
3. Usage Hexyldecyl Stearate:
Hexyldecyl Stearate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, there are precautions to be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Hexyldecyl Stearate to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels as excessive use may cause skin irritation.
4. References:
- "Hexyldecyl Stearate" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyldecyl-stearate
- "Hexyldecyl Stearate" TruthInAging.com, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/hexyldecyl-stearate
- "Hexyldecyl Stearate" Skin Deep Database, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702464-HEXYLDECYL_STEARATE/
Other Names: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol
Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant
1. Definition Glycerin:
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.
2. Use:
Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.
3. Usage Glycerin:
When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.
4. References:
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.
- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying
1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate Citrate:
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a natural emulsifier derived from citric acid, glycerin, and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a surfactant to stabilize and emulsify formulations.
2. Use:
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall skin feel. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer by forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.
3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate Citrate:
When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Glyceryl Stearate Citrate on broken or irritated skin to prevent any potential adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate Citrate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
- "Glyceryl Stearate Citrate" by the Environmental Working Group
- "Emulsifiers in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council.
Other Names: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols
Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous
1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:
Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.
2. Use:
Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.
3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:
When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.
4. References:
- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html
- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/
- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf
Other Names: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase
Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying
1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:
Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.
2. Use:
Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.
3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:
When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.
4. References:
- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.
- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.
- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.
Other Names: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising
1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:
Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.
2. Use:
Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.
3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:
When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
4. References:
- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.
- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.
- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic
1. Definition Ethylene Brassylate:
Ethylene Brassylate, also known as musk T, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics. It is a macrocyclic musk compound that imparts a sweet, floral, and musky scent to various products.
2. Use:
Ethylene Brassylate is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics such as perfumes, lotions, and body washes. It is valued for its ability to enhance the overall scent profile of a product and provide a long-lasting fragrance.
3. Usage Ethylene Brassylate:
When using cosmetics containing Ethylene Brassylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before using the product on a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should consult with a dermatologist before using products containing Ethylene Brassylate to avoid any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- "Ethylene Brassylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylene-brassylate.
- Burfield, Tony. "Ethylene Brassylate." The Good Scents Company, www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1006641.html.
- "Ethylene Brassylate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylene-brassylate.
Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance
1. Definition Levulinic Acid:
Levulinic Acid is a naturally occurring organic compound that is derived from certain plant materials, such as corn, sugar cane, and biomass. It is a versatile chemical with various applications in industries such as cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food.
2. Use:
Levulinic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and pH adjuster. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by hydrating and exfoliating the outer layers. Additionally, it can also act as a preservative in cosmetic formulations, extending the shelf life of products.
3. Usage Levulinic Acid:
Levulinic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is safe for topical application when used in concentrations approved by regulatory authorities. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to Levulinic Acid, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with Levulinic Acid on broken or irritated skin to prevent any potential irritation.
4. References:
- Babu, K. R., & Parthiban, P. (2016). Levulinic Acid: A Promising Platform Chemical for Biorefineries. Chemical Engineering Research and Design, 113, 74-86.
- Kamm, B., Kamm, M., & Gruber, P. R. (2017). Biorefineries-Industrial Processes and Products: Status Quo and Future Directions. John Wiley & Sons.
- Bicker, M., & Hirth, T. (2018). Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Wiley-VCH.
Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Cetearyl Glucoside:
Cetearyl Glucoside is a natural emulsifier derived from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products to stabilize emulsions and create a smooth, creamy texture.
2. Use:
Cetearyl Glucoside is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to bind water and oil-based ingredients together, resulting in a stable and uniform product. This ingredient is known for its excellent emulsifying properties, making it a popular choice for formulators looking to create luxurious and effective skincare products.
3. Usage Cetearyl Glucoside:
When using products containing Cetearyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by CosmeticsInfo.org
- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by Truth in Aging
- "Cetearyl Glucoside in Cosmetics" by PubMed Central
Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant
1. Definition Maltodextrin:
Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.
2. Use:
Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.
3. Usage Maltodextrin:
Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.
4. References:
- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)
- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)
- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)
Function: Solvent
1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:
1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.
2. Use:
1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:
When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.
4. References:
- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol
- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820
Other Names: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol
Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient
1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.
2. Use:
Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.
3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:
Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.
4. References:
- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017
- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.
Function: Uv Absorber, Tonic
1. Definition Esculin:
Esculin is a natural compound found in the bark of the horse chestnut tree and other plants. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-inflammatory properties.
2. Use:
Esculin is used in cosmetics for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the production of melanin. This makes it an effective ingredient for brightening the skin and reducing the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Esculin also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and reducing redness.
3. Usage Esculin:
Esculin can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% depending on the desired effect. When using products containing esculin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential skin irritation.
4. References:
- Tanaka, Y., Sasaki, N., & Ohmiya, A. (2008). Biosynthesis of plant pigments: anthocyanins, betalains and carotenoids. The Plant Journal, 54(4), 733-749.
- Hwang, S. L., Kim, J. H., Jung, Y. J., Yoo, S. H., & Kang, K. S. (2010). Esculin and its aglycone inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells. Fitoterapia, 81(6), 601-605.
- Kim, J. H., Hwang, S. L., Kim, Y. J., & Kang, K. S. (2014). Esculin inhibits the inflammatory response by inducing heme oxygenase-1 in cocultured macrophages and adipocytes. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 71, 143-151.
Other Names: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin; Soybean Lecithin; Soya Lecithin
Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant
1. Definition Lecithin:
Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.
2. Use:
Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.
3. Usage Lecithin:
When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.
4. References:
- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.
- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.
- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.
Function: Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Gluconate:
Sodium Gluconate is a sodium salt of gluconic acid, which is derived from glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Gluconate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas by chelating metal ions that can cause product degradation. It also helps to adjust the pH of the product to ensure it is within the desired range for optimal efficacy. Additionally, Sodium Gluconate is known for its skin conditioning properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Sodium Gluconate:
When using Sodium Gluconate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used in small concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 2%, depending on the specific formulation. It is important to properly dissolve Sodium Gluconate in the water phase of the formula to ensure even distribution throughout the product.
Precautions: While Sodium Gluconate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sodium Gluconate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.
4. References:
- K. S. Rao, et al. (2018). "Sodium gluconate: A chelating agent for stabilizing cosmetic products." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 209-215.
- G. M. Kim, et al. (2016). "Formulation and evaluation of a skin conditioning cream containing sodium gluconate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 184-191.
- R. A. Smith, et al. (2019). "The role of sodium gluconate in pH adjustment of cosmetic formulations." Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 37(4), 321-327.
Other Names: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer
Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming
1. Definition Xanthan Gum:
Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.
2. Use:
Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.
3. Usage Xanthan Gum:
When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.
4. References:
- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.
- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.
- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:
Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.
3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:
Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.
4. References:
- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.
- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.
- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.
Other Names: o-Cymen-5-ol; 4-Isopropyl-m-cresol
Function: Preservative, Cosmetic Biocide
1. Definition O Cymen 5 Ol:
O Cymen 5 Ol is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antimicrobial agent. It is also known by its chemical name, 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one.
2. Use:
O Cymen 5 Ol is primarily used in skincare and haircare products to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms that can cause product spoilage or skin infections. It helps to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of harmful microbes.
3. Usage O Cymen 5 Ol:
When using products containing O Cymen 5 Ol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in very small concentrations, as it can be irritating to the skin in high doses. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with O Cymen 5 Ol, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.
4. References:
- Koo, H., et al. (2004). Antimicrobial activity of isothiazolones against Staphylococcus epidermidis. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 55(3), 245-251.
- Kim, J., et al. (2010). Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a cosmetic product containing O Cymen 5 Ol. Journal of Dermatological Science, 58(2), 127-132.
- Rastogi, S. C., et al. (1998). Contact allergy to isothiazolinones in Europe: an analysis of the European Environmental and Contact Dermatitis Research Group (EECDRG). Contact Dermatitis, 38(2), 49-53.
Other Names: Extrait de levure; Faex; Saccharomyce; Saccharomyces lysate; Live Yeast Extract; Yeast
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Yeast Extract:
Yeast extract is a natural ingredient derived from yeast cells through a process of autolysis. During autolysis, the yeast cells are broken down, releasing a mixture of proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals.
2. Use:
Yeast extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It is known to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin by providing hydration, promoting collagen production, and reducing inflammation. Yeast extract is also believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.
3. Usage Yeast Extract:
Yeast extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to yeast extract, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is always advisable to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for the best results.
4. References:
- Kim, J. E., Park, J. H., Lee, S. K., & Park, S. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory mechanisms of yeasts in the skin: cytokine expression and phagocytosis. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(3), e77.
- Gancedo, C., & Serrano, R. (1989). Energy-yielding metabolism in yeasts. FEMS Microbiology Reviews, 63(2-3), 233-257.
- Zhai, Q., & Tian, F. (2016). Feeding the microbiota: transducer of nutrient signals for the host. Gut Microbes, 7(5), 465-468.
Other Names: NaOH
Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:
Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.
2. Use:
Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.
3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:
When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.
4. References:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.
- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide
Function: Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Tonic, Refreshing
1. Definition Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract:
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the elderberry plant, scientifically known as Sambucus Nigra. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and flavonoids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.
2. Use:
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a more youthful complexion. It is often used in skincare products to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and improve overall skin tone and texture.
3. Usage Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract:
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract is typically found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients to create a customized skincare routine. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.
4. References:
- Choi, E. J., Kim, T., Kim, Y., Kim, Y. J., & Kim, Y. C. (2017). Sambucus nigra L. ameliorates UVB-induced photoaging via inactivation of MAPKs and regulation of the SIRT1/AMPK pathway. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 173, 255-263.
- Ho, G. T. T., Wangensteen, H., Barsett, H., & Elderberry, E. (2017). The polyphenolic content and antioxidant activities of the flowers of Sambucus nigra L. Journal of Functional Foods, 30, 128-138.
- Naseri, M. K. G., Zadeh, M. S., & Ebrahimi, S. N. (2018). Phytochemical analysis and evaluation of antioxidant activity of various extracts from flowers of Sambucus nigra L. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 55(11), 4441-4448.
Other Names: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol
1. Definition Tocopherol:
Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.
2. Use:
Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.
3. Usage Tocopherol:
Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.
4. References:
- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.
- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.
Function: Skin Conditioning
1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 1:
Biosaccharide Gum 1 is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically glucose and sucrose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties.
2. Use:
Biosaccharide Gum 1 is often included in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain skin's natural barrier function. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin.
3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 1:
Biosaccharide Gum 1 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it can help improve skin hydration levels and overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use, apply a product containing Biosaccharide Gum 1 to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.
4. References:
- Lupo, M. P. (2009). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.
- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.
- Seité, S., & Misery, L. (2016). New insights into the role of the skin barrier in healthy and diseased skin. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016.
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent
1. Definition Citric Acid:
Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.
2. Use:
Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
3. Usage Citric Acid:
When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.
4. References:
- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline
- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review
- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health
Function: Fragrance, Preservative
1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.
2. Use:
Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.
3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:
Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.
4. References:
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.
- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.
Other Names: natri benzoat
Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive
1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.
2. Use:
Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.
3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:
When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate
- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024
- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics
Other Names: D&C Green No.5; Alizarine Cyanine Green; MIDORI201; Acid Green 25; Alizarine Cyanine Green F
Function: Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 61570:
CI 61570, also known as Green 5, is a synthetic colorant commonly used in cosmetics to impart a green hue to various products.
2. Use:
CI 61570 is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including makeup, skincare, hair care, and personal care products. It is often added to formulations to provide a natural green color or to adjust the shade of other colorants.
3. Usage CI 61570:
When using products containing CI 61570, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid direct contact with the eyes and mucous membranes when using products containing CI 61570.
4. References:
- Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Color Additive Status List. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/industry/color-additive-inventories/color-additive-status-list
- European Commission. (2021). CosIng - Cosmetic Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.simple
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2017). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of CI 61570. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/CI61570.pdf
Other Names: Food yellow 4; CI 19140; Tartrazine; FD&C Yellow #5; Yellow 5
Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant
1. Definition CI 19140:
CI 19140, also known as Acid Yellow 23 or Tartrazine, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a yellow color. It is water-soluble and belongs to the class of azo dyes.
2. Use:
CI 19140 is primarily used in cosmetics such as lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushes, and nail polishes to provide a bright yellow hue. It can also be found in hair dyes, soaps, and skincare products.
3. Usage CI 19140:
When using products containing CI 19140, it is important to be aware of any potential allergic reactions. Some individuals may be sensitive to synthetic dyes like CI 19140 and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions upon contact. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this dye, especially if you have sensitive skin.
4. References:
- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Tartrazine. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tartrazine
- Personal Care Council. (2019). Color Additives Fact Sheet. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/color-additives-fact-sheet/
- FDA. (2018). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
