Academie Normalizing Toner

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

1. Definition Honey Extract:

Honey extract is a concentrated form of honey that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, soothing, and antibacterial properties. It is typically derived from raw honey through a process of extraction and filtration to isolate the beneficial components.

2. Use:

Honey extract is a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, masks, and serums due to its ability to hydrate the skin, promote healing, and reduce inflammation. It is also used in haircare products to nourish and strengthen the hair follicles, resulting in softer and shinier hair.

3. Usage Honey Extract:

When using products containing honey extract, it is important to perform a patch test on a small area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with a known allergy to honey should avoid using products with honey extract. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Boukhatem, M.N., Ferhat, M.A., Kameli, A., Saidi, F., & Kebir, H.T. (2014). Lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus) essential oil as a potent anti-inflammatory and antifungal drugs. Libyan Journal of Medicine, 9(1), 25431.

- Burlando, B., & Cornara, L. (2013). Honey in dermatology and skin care: a review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(4), 306-313.

- Al-Waili, N. S. (2001). Therapeutic and prophylactic effects of crude honey on chronic seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. European Journal of Medical Research, 6(7), 306-308.

1. Definition Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract:

Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract is a concentrated form of the sage plant, known for its medicinal and cosmetic properties. It is often used in skincare products for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sage leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. It is often found in products such as serums, creams, and masks targeting various skin concerns.

3. Usage Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Sage Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to avoid using products with sage leaf extract on broken or irritated skin to prevent further irritation.

4. References:

- Saeidnia, S., et al. (2011). Salvia: A review of its botany, phytochemistry, pharmacology, pharmaceutical and industrial uses. Journal of Medicinal Plants, 10(39), 1-23.

- Tundis, R., et al. (2014). Potential role of natural compounds against skin aging. Current Medicinal Chemistry, 21(10), 1125-1150.

- Baricevic, D., et al. (2001). The biological/pharmacological activity of the Salvia genus. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 75(2-3), 213-240.

1. Definition Alteromonas Ferment Extract:

Alteromonas Ferment Extract is a marine-derived ingredient that is obtained from the fermentation of Alteromonas sp., a type of bacteria found in deep-sea environments. It is rich in peptides, amino acids, and other beneficial compounds that have been shown to have skin-conditioning and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Alteromonas Ferment Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. It is also known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, resulting in firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Alteromonas Ferment Extract:

Alteromonas Ferment Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, masks, and lotions. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations targeting dry, sensitive, or aging skin. To use products containing Alteromonas Ferment Extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer or sunscreen to lock in the benefits of the extract.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., & Kim, Y. (2017). Alteromonas ferment extract improves skin hydration and epidermal barrier function in healthy adult women: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(2), 214-220.

- Fu, X., Wang, H., & Hu, Y. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of Alteromonas Ferment Extract on UVB-induced inflammation in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Dermatological Science, 93(2), 87-93.

- Lee, S., Park, S., & Choi, S. (2020). The anti-aging effects of Alteromonas Ferment Extract on skin fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 71(4), 215-221.

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

1. Definition Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antiseptic agent. It is a white crystalline powder with a mild, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Chlorphenesin is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various personal care products. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of harmful organisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulatory guidelines and recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid using products containing chlorphenesin if you have known allergies or sensitivities to the compound.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of chlorphenesin. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26 Suppl 3:61-72. doi: 10.1080/10915810701663150.

- Personal Care Products Council. Safety Assessment of Chlorphenesin as Used in Cosmetics. 2013. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr126.pdf.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. 2019. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.822.

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

1. Definition Blue 1:

Blue 1, also known as FD&C Blue No. 1 or Brilliant Blue FCF, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to provide a blue color.

2. Use:

Blue 1 is primarily used as a colorant in various cosmetic products such as eyeshadows, lipsticks, nail polishes, and hair dyes. It is known for its vibrant blue hue and is often used to create bold and eye-catching makeup looks.

3. Usage Blue 1:

Blue 1 is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory bodies such as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States and the European Union. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to synthetic dyes like Blue 1, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of FD&C Blue No. 1. International Journal of Toxicology. 2002;21(Suppl 3):15-41.

- Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Accessed from: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics

- European Commission. CosIng Database. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/