Cold Spring Apothecary Clarifying Charcoal Facial Cleanser

1. Definition Emulsifying Wax:

Emulsifying wax is a type of cosmetic ingredient that helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together to create a stable emulsion in skincare products. It is typically derived from plant-based sources such as coconut or palm oil.

2. Use:

Emulsifying wax is commonly used in the formulation of lotions, creams, and other skincare products to prevent the separation of oil and water-based ingredients. It acts as a binding agent, allowing for a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Emulsifying Wax:

When using emulsifying wax in skincare formulations, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically added to the oil phase of the formulation and heated until fully melted before incorporating the water phase. Overheating or using too much emulsifying wax can result in a greasy or sticky texture, so it is important to measure accurately and monitor the temperature during the mixing process.

4. References:

- "Emulsifying Wax: What It Is and How to Use It in DIY Recipes" by Humblebee & Me

- "Emulsifiers in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Science Technology

- "Understanding Emulsifying Wax and How to Use It in Homemade Lotions" by DIY Natural

1. Definition Vegetable Glycerin:

Vegetable Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a clear, odorless liquid derived from plant oils such as coconut, palm, or soy. It is a natural humectant, meaning it attracts moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Vegetable Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and emollient. It helps to hydrate the skin by drawing moisture from the air and locking it into the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. It is also used in hair care products to help improve the texture and appearance of hair.

3. Usage Vegetable Glycerin:

Vegetable Glycerin can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and hair conditioners. It is generally safe to use on all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. It is best to use products containing Vegetable Glycerin as directed on the packaging to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Sharma, R., & Mahajan, V. K. (2018). Role of humectants in cosmetic products. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 9(4), 244–249. https://doi.org/10.4103/idoj.IDOJ_265_17

- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. In Cosmeceuticals, 3rd Edition (pp. 25-43). Elsevier. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-802005-1.00003-7

- Burdock, G. A. (2005). Encyclopedia of Food and Color Additives (Vol. 1). CRC Press.

1. Definition Dimethyl Sulfone:

Dimethyl Sulfone, also known as MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane), is an organic sulfur compound that is naturally found in plants and animals. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and skin-rejuvenating properties.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Sulfone is used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and a soothing ingredient. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often added to skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help improve the overall appearance and health of the skin.

3. Usage Dimethyl Sulfone:

When using Dimethyl Sulfone in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and use it as directed by the product instructions. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always advisable to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products containing Dimethyl Sulfone on broken or irritated skin to prevent any further irritation.

4. References:

- Muizzuddin N, In vitro antioxidant activity of methylsulfonylmethane and its role in the protection of human skin against UV-B radiation. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Aug;34(4):273-9. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00706.x. Epub 2012 Mar 19. PMID: 22429009.

- Kim YH, Kim DH, Lim H, Baek DY, Shin HK, Kim JK. The anti-inflammatory effects of methylsulfonylmethane on lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammatory responses in murine macrophages. Biol Pharm Bull. 2009 Apr;32(4):651-6. doi: 10.1248/bpb.32.651. PMID: 19342695.

- Brien S, Prescott P, Bashir N, Lewith G. Systematic review of the nutritional supplements dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) and methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) in the treatment of osteoarthritis. Osteoarthritis Cartilage. 2008 Nov;16(11):1277-88. doi: 10.1016/j.joca.2008.03.004. Epub 2008 May 16. PMID: 18482783.

1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Jojoba Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to mimic the natural oils produced by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and hair treatments due to its hydrating and conditioning properties. Jojoba Seed Oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and preventing breakouts.

3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:

Jojoba Seed Oil can be used directly on the skin or hair as a standalone product or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY skincare or haircare products. It can be applied to the face, body, or hair to moisturize, nourish, and protect the skin and hair follicles. When using Jojoba Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin and to avoid any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store Jojoba Seed Oil in a cool, dark place to maintain its quality and extend its shelf life.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron, The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here: Busting Beauty Myths So You Know What to Use and Why, 2015

- Ratan K. Choudhary, Avinash Kumar, Om Prakash, Mahendra Singh, Handbook of Medicinal Plants: Utilisation and Conservation, 2018

- Jennifer Peace Rhind, Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013

1. Definition Decyl Glucoside:

Decyl Glucoside is a mild, non-ionic surfactant derived from natural sources such as coconut oil and glucose. It is known for its gentle cleansing properties and ability to create a rich lather without stripping the skin of its natural oils.

2. Use:

Decyl Glucoside is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a primary or secondary surfactant. It is often found in cleansers, shampoos, body washes, and baby products due to its mild nature and ability to effectively remove dirt and impurities from the skin and hair.

3. Usage Decyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Decyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Decyl Glucoside." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/decyl-glucoside/

- "Decyl Glucoside." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/decyl-glucoside

- "Decyl Glucoside." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/decyl-glucoside

1. Definition Dimethyl Mea:

Dimethyl Mea, also known as dimethylaminoethanol or DMAE, is a compound that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a derivative of the B vitamin choline and is naturally found in small amounts in the brain.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Mea is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often included in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions to help promote a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Dimethyl Mea:

When using skincare products containing Dimethyl Mea, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advised to start with a lower concentration of Dimethyl Mea and gradually increase the usage to assess how your skin reacts to the ingredient.

4. References:

- Perricone MD. (n.d.). DMAE. Retrieved from https://www.perriconemd.com/ingredients/dmae.html

- SkinCeuticals. (n.d.). Dimethyl Mea. Retrieved from https://www.skinceuticals.com/ingredient-science/dmae

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Professional.

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract:

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green tea. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly catechins, which help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

2. Use:

Green tea extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which can help to reduce inflammation, protect against UV damage, and improve overall skin health. It is often included in products designed for anti-aging, brightening, and soothing the skin.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract:

Green tea extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including serums, moisturizers, masks, and cleansers. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either on its own or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using a new product containing green tea extract to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Yoon HS, Kim JR, Park GY, Kim JY, Won YJ, Kim HR, Kim BJ. Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea extract on photoaged human skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2016 Oct;84(1):74-83. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2016.06.016. Epub 2016 Jul 1. PMID: 27422719.

- Chiu AE, Chan JL, Kern DG, Kohler S, Rehmus WE, Kimball AB. Double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial of green tea extracts in the clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):855-60; discussion 860. doi: 10.1097/00042728-200507000-00011. PMID: 16029678.

- Zhou B, Wu LM, Yang L, Liu ZL. Evidence for alpha-bisabolol as a natural antioxidant. J Agric Food Chem. 2007 Aug 8;55(16):6302-6306. doi: 10.1021/jf070477y. Epub 2007 Jul 11. PMID: 17625876.

1. Definition Tocopherol (Vitamin E):

Tocopherol, commonly known as Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble antioxidant that is essential for maintaining healthy skin and protecting it from damage caused by free radicals.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is widely used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. It is also known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Tocopherol (Vitamin E):

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens. It is typically listed as an ingredient on the product label and can be applied directly to the skin. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to tocopherol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lin, F.-H., Lin, J.-Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., … & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.

- Thiele, J. J., Hsieh, S. N., Briviba, K., Sies, H. (1999). Protein oxidation in human stratum corneum: susceptibility of keratins to oxidation in vitro and presence of a keratin oxidation gradient in vivo. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 113(3), 335-339.

- Nachbar, F., Korting, H. C. (1995). The role of vitamin E in normal and damaged skin. Journal of Molecular Medicine, 73(1), 7-17.

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

1. Definition Activated Charcoal:

Activated charcoal is a form of carbon that has been processed to have small, low-volume pores that increase the surface area available for adsorption or chemical reactions. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to draw out impurities, toxins, and excess oils from the skin.

2. Use:

Activated charcoal is a popular ingredient in skincare products such as masks, cleansers, and scrubs due to its detoxifying properties. It helps to deep clean pores, absorb excess oil, and exfoliate the skin, leaving it looking clearer and more radiant. Activated charcoal can also be found in toothpaste and hair products for similar purposes.

3. Usage Activated Charcoal:

When using skincare products containing activated charcoal, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Generally, activated charcoal products are applied to clean, dry skin and left on for a specified amount of time before being rinsed off. It is recommended to use these products 1-2 times per week to avoid over-drying the skin. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using activated charcoal products to check for any potential skin irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Y. C. Sharma, V. K. Srivastava, and R. C. Singh, "Activated Charcoal: Preparation, characterization and applications: A review article," Journal of Chemical Technology & Biotechnology, vol. 52, no. 2, pp. 91-106, 2009.

- A. Gupta and A. K. Sharma, "Activated Charcoal: Preparation, characterization and applications in cosmetic formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 40, no. 4, pp. 313-324, 2018.

- M. R. Mozafari, S. Reed, and M. Roohani, "Activated Charcoal in Cosmetics: A comprehensive review of its benefits and precautions," Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 17, no. 3, pp. 387-394, 2018.

1. Definition Salix Nigra (Black Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Nigra (Black Willow) Bark Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark of the black willow tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Salix Nigra Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and tighten pores. It is often found in products targeted towards acne-prone or sensitive skin due to its calming effects.

3. Usage Salix Nigra (Black Willow) Bark Extract:

When using products containing Salix Nigra Bark Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage if no adverse reactions occur. As with any new ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using Salix Nigra Bark Extract in your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J. H., Campbell, B. C., Mahoney, N., Chan, K. L., Molyneux, R. J., & Hwang, B. K. (2004). Effects of salicylic acid and chitosan on expression of pathogenesis-related (PR) genes in tobacco. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(3), 641-647.

- Lee, H. S., & Kim, J. H. (2004). Antimicrobial activities of 2-hydroxy-cinnamaldehyde and dihydroxy-cinnamaldehyde against Listeria monocytogenes and their effect on the cellular function of the bacteria. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(21), 6435-6439.

- Liao, Y., & Park, Y. S. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of black willow (Salix nigra) extract. Food Science and Biotechnology, 28(2), 585-593.

1. Definition DL-Panthenol:

DL-Panthenol, also known as Provitamin B5, is a derivative of pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.

2. Use:

DL-Panthenol is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and smoothness. It is also known to help soothe and calm irritated skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or dry skin. In haircare products, DL-Panthenol is used to strengthen and nourish the hair, leaving it looking shiny and healthy.

3. Usage DL-Panthenol:

DL-Panthenol can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1% to 5% in skincare products and 2% to 5% in haircare products. When using products containing DL-Panthenol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Maia Campos PMBG, Gianeti MD, Camargo FB, Gaspar LR. The use of green tea extract in cosmetic formulations: not only an antioxidant active ingredient. Dermatol Ther. 2014;27(4):267-271. doi:10.1111/dth.12121

- Binic I, Lazarevic V, Ljubenovic M, Mojsa J, Sokolovic D. Skin aging: natural weapons and strategies. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2013;2013:827248. doi:10.1155/2013/827248

- Draelos ZD. The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7(1):2-7. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00357.x

1. Definition Calophyllum Inophyllum Oil:

Calophyllum Inophyllum Oil, also known as Tamanu Oil, is a botanical oil extracted from the nuts of the Calophyllum inophyllum tree. It is rich in fatty acids, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Calophyllum Inophyllum Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and healing properties. It is known to promote skin regeneration, reduce inflammation, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is often used in products for treating scars, stretch marks, acne, eczema, and other skin conditions.

3. Usage Calophyllum Inophyllum Oil:

When using Calophyllum Inophyllum Oil in cosmetics, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to the skin, as some individuals may be sensitive to the oil. It can be used directly on the skin as a moisturizer or added to skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use the oil sparingly, as a little goes a long way due to its rich and potent properties.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K., Karadeniz, F., & Kim, Y. T. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effect of Calophyllum inophyllum L. in RAW264.7 cells. Journal of Functional Foods, 5(4), 2197-2204.

- Nair, R., Kalariya, T., & Chanda, S. (2009). Antibacterial activity of some selected Indian medicinal flora. Turkish Journal of Biology, 33(2), 71-75.

- Léguillier, T., Lémus, C., Souza, C., Queiroz, V., Marcourt, L., Beniddir, M. A., ... & Espindola, L. (2015). In vitro antiplasmodial activity of Brazilian Cerrado plants used as traditional remedies. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 173, 545-555.

1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.