ESPA Naturally Radiant Tinted Moisturiser SPF 15

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as Octyl Methoxycinnamate, is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics and sunscreens as a UV filter. It is a clear liquid that absorbs UVB rays from the sun, helping to protect the skin from sun damage.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a UV filter to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. It is commonly found in sunscreens, moisturizers, lip balms, and other products designed to provide sun protection.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:

When using products containing Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Apply sunscreen with this ingredient generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to seek shade, wear protective clothing, and avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours.

4. References:

- Klammer H, Schlecht C, Wuttke W, Schmutzler C, Gotthardt I, Köhrle J, Jarry H. Effects of a 5-day treatment with the UV-filter octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) on the function of the hypothalamo-pituitary-thyroid axis in rats. Toxicology. 2007;238(2-3):192-9. doi: 10.1016/j.tox.2007.06.017. Epub 2007 Jul 3. PMID: 17658655.

- Schlumpf M, Cotton B, Conscience M, Haller V, Steinmann B, Lichtensteiger W. In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens. Environ Health Perspect. 2001 Mar;109(3):239-44. doi: 10.1289/ehp.01109239. PMID: 11333190; PMCID: PMC1240267.

- Janjua NR, Mogensen B, Andersson AM, Petersen JH, Henriksen M, Skakkebaek NE, Wulf HC. Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 May;122(5):1257-61. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22603.x. PMID: 15140223.

1. Definition Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Olivate is primarily used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics to create stable emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.

3. Usage Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/cetearyl-olivate/

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Eco Well. https://www.theecowell.com/single-post/2018/09/12/Cetearyl-Olivate

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by Truth In Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-olivate

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:

Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.

- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.

- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.

1. Definition Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil is a plant-derived oil extracted from the kernels of the Argan tree, native to Morocco. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Argan Kernel Oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetics. It is commonly used in moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and masks to hydrate and soften the skin and hair. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, helping to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

When using Argan Kernel Oil in cosmetics, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare or haircare products. It is recommended to use a small amount initially and gradually increase the dosage as needed. Avoid contact with eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Schmitt, L., Maranz, S., Akermi, M., & Delaveau, P. (2003). Effect of argan oil on platelet aggregation and bleeding time: a beneficial nutritional property. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 14(4), 220-225.

- Ait-Ouazzou, A., Lorán, S., González-Ferrero, C., Aranda, C., Rota, C., Herrera, A., ... & Espina, L. (2011). Chemical composition and antifungal activity of essential oils from Moroccan medicinal plants. Journal of medical plants research, 5(23), 5728-5736.

- Khallouki, F., Younos, C., Soulimani, R., Oster, T., Charrouf, Z., & Spiegelhalder, B. (2003). Consumption of argan oil (Morocco) with its unique profile of fatty acids, tocopherols, squalene, sterols and phenolic compounds should confer valuable cancer chemopreventive effects. European Journal of Cancer Prevention, 12(1), 67-75.

1. Definition Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate is a natural ester derived from isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isoamyl Laurate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a lightweight emollient that helps to soften and smooth the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the skin.

3. Usage Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations at concentrations typically ranging from 1-10%. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing Isoamyl Laurate to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate in Cosmetics" - Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/21423/isoamyl-laurate-in-cosmetics

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

1. Definition Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It is derived from stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats.

2. Use:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a stabilizer to prevent the separation of ingredients in formulations. Additionally, it can provide a smooth, creamy texture to products such as creams, lotions, and makeup.

3. Usage Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any other cosmetic ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. However, it is always advisable to conduct a patch test before using products containing Polyhydroxystearic Acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyhydroxystearic-acid)

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine (https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/10410/polyhydroxystearic-acid-in-cosmetics)

- "Safety Assessment of Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyhydroxystearic%20acid.pdf)

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Shea Butter Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular choice for products targeting dry or damaged skin. Shea Butter Extract is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and protecting against environmental damage.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Shea Butter Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as lotions, creams, balms, and masks. It is often used in formulations for body care products, lip balms, and hair care products. When using products containing Shea Butter Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store products containing Shea Butter Extract in a cool, dry place to prevent rancidity.

4. References:

- M. A. Tella, M. K. Aremu, and A. O. Ogunmoye. "Shea butter: A multi-purpose oil for cosmeceuticals." Journal of Applied Sciences and Environmental Management, 2011.

- A. A. Akihisa, et al. "Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat." Journal of Oleo Science, 2011.

- E. M. Obiri-Danso, et al. "Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of shea butter extract." Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 2007.

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables are the lipid fraction of sunflower oil that remains insoluble in water and does not react with alkalis to form soap. It is a natural ingredient derived from sunflower seeds and is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. They help to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and smoothness, making them ideal for dry, sensitive, or aging skin. They can also help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals, reducing the signs of aging and promoting a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables:

Sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and balms. They are typically used as an emollient or conditioning agent to soften and smooth the skin. To use, simply apply the product containing sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables to clean, dry skin and massage gently until absorbed. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using on sensitive or reactive skin.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934-2937.

- Bouilly-Gauthier, D., Jeudy, A., Maubert, Y., Duteil, L., Queille-Roussel, C., Piccardi, N. (2013). Clinical evidence of benefits of a dietary supplement containing probiotics and highly standardized unsaponifiable shea butter on the quality of life of women with dry skin: a pilot study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(1), 18-26.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

1. Definition Inulin Lauryl Carbamate:

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate is a cosmetic ingredient derived from inulin, a natural plant-based carbohydrate, and lauryl alcohol. It is commonly used as a surfactant and emulsifier in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate is used in cosmetics as a gentle cleansing agent that helps to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin and hair. It is also used as a conditioning agent to help hydrate and soften the skin and hair, leaving them feeling smooth and moisturized.

3. Usage Inulin Lauryl Carbamate:

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate is typically found in cleansers, shampoos, conditioners, and other personal care products. It is safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Inulin Lauryl Carbamate to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Barel, A., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Second Edition. CRC Press.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Lode, O., & Maibach, H. (2006). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

1. Definition Myristyl Myristate:

Myristyl Myristate is a fatty acid ester derived from myristic acid and myristyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Myristyl Myristate is primarily used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and makeup products. Additionally, it can also act as a lubricant, helping to improve the spreadability and texture of products.

3. Usage Myristyl Myristate:

Myristyl Myristate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it is important to use it in moderation. It is recommended to patch test products containing Myristyl Myristate before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to follow the instructions on product labels and consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Myristyl Myristate", CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/myristyl-myristate

- "Myristyl Myristate", The Dermatology Review, https://thedermreview.com/myristyl-myristate/

- "Myristyl Myristate", Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/myristyl-myristate

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

1. Definition Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and thickening agent. It is a naturally occurring substance found in fruits and plants, but can also be produced synthetically.

2. Use:

Sorbitol is used in cosmetics to help attract moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Sorbitol also has emollient properties, which help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of up to 10% in skincare products. However, some individuals may be sensitive to sorbitol and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing sorbitol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5780, Sorbitol. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sorbitol

- Cosmetics Info. Sorbitol. https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitol

- Personal Care Council. Sorbitol. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sorbitol

1. Definition Alumina:

Alumina, also known as aluminum oxide, is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used in cosmetics for its abrasive and absorbent properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often found in skincare products such as exfoliants, masks, and powders.

2. Use:

Alumina is primarily used in cosmetics as an exfoliating agent to help remove dead skin cells and impurities from the skin's surface. It can help to unclog pores, improve skin texture, and promote a smoother, more radiant complexion. Alumina is also used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, absorbent, and opacifying agent to help improve the texture and performance of various products.

3. Usage Alumina:

When using cosmetics containing alumina, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Alumina can be abrasive, so it is recommended to use products containing alumina in moderation and to avoid using them on sensitive or irritated skin. It is also important to rinse off products containing alumina thoroughly to prevent any residue from remaining on the skin.

4. References:

- "Aluminum Oxide." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/aluminum-oxide.

- "Aluminum Oxide." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/aluminum-oxide.

- "Alumina." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/alumina.

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

1. Definition Cetyl Palmitate:

Cetyl Palmitate is a fatty acid derived from cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier, helping to soften and smooth the skin while also stabilizing the product.

2. Use:

Cetyl Palmitate is often found in moisturizers, creams, lotions, and makeup products due to its ability to provide a silky texture and improve the spreadability of the formulation. It is also used in hair care products to condition and soften the hair.

3. Usage Cetyl Palmitate:

When using products containing Cetyl Palmitate, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Cetyl Palmitate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-palmitate

- "Cetyl Palmitate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetyl-palmitate

- "Cetyl Palmitate" by Paula's Choice Skincare, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-palmitate.html

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

1. Definition Sorbitan Palmitate:

Sorbitan Palmitate is an ester formed from the combination of palmitic acid and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Palmitate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together. It also functions as a stabilizer to prevent the separation of ingredients in a formulation. Additionally, it can act as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension between different substances in a product.

3. Usage Sorbitan Palmitate:

Sorbitan Palmitate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended usage levels. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in formulations. It is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Sorbitan Palmitate.

4. References:

- "Sorbitan Palmitate" - CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Safety Assessment of Sorbitan Esters as Used in Cosmetics" - Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Emulsifiers in Cosmetics" - International Journal of Cosmetic Science

1. Definition Silica:

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.

2. Use:

Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.

3. Usage Silica:

When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.

4. References:

- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.

- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.

- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

1. Definition Sodium Lactate:

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of natural Lactic Acid, a humectant and pH regulator commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid that is water-soluble and has a slightly salty taste.

2. Use:

Sodium Lactate is primarily used in skincare products for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by smoothing out rough patches and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Sodium Lactate:

When using products containing Sodium Lactate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Sodium Lactate to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to store products containing Sodium Lactate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- S. Wang, J. Li, R. Dong, J. Zhao, L. Zhang, "Sodium Lactate: A Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Mild Steel in Aqueous Solutions", Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, 2018.

- M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, M. M. El-Mehasseb, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

- M. M. El-Mehasseb, M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

1. Definition Bisabolol:

Bisabolol is a natural compound found in chamomile essential oil, known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Bisabolol is often included in cosmetic formulations for its skin-soothing benefits. It helps to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, bisabolol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Bisabolol:

Bisabolol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-1% in formulations. When using products containing bisabolol, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for all skin types, but if irritation occurs, discontinue use.

4. References:

- Sharifi-Rad, J., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: A monoterpenoid with therapeutic potential. BioMed Research International, 2018.

- Costa, R., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound for potential treatment of age-related macular degeneration. European Journal of Pharmacology, 839, 134-141.

- Zeng, W., et al. (2020). Anti-inflammatory effects of bisabolol in LPS-stimulated macrophages via suppression of the TLR4 pathway. Molecular Medicine Reports, 21(2), 957-964.

1. Definition Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer:

Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is a synthetic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and thickening agent. It is a copolymer of ethylenediamine and stearyl dimer dilinoleate, which helps to stabilize the formulation of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin. Additionally, it can also enhance the overall performance of the product by increasing its stability and shelf life.

3. Usage Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer:

When using products containing Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes, and to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reaction occurs.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2013.

- "Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org.

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Ethylenediamine/ Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer-Based Cream" Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017.

1. Definition Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the honeysuckle plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning and antioxidant benefits. It helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that can help to protect the skin from environmental aggressors.

3. Usage Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, look for products that list Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract as one of the main ingredients. Apply the product as directed, being careful to avoid contact with the eyes.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., et al. (2016). Anti-inflammatory activity of Lonicera japonica flower is related to inhibition of NF-kappaB activation through reducing I-kappaBalpha degradation in RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 177, 1-8.

- Park, E. J., et al. (2011). Anti-inflammatory activity of herbal medicines: inhibition of nitric oxide production and tumor necrosis factor-alpha secretion in an activated macrophage-like cell line. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine, 39(5), 943-958.

- Shin, T. Y., et al. (2000). Anti-allergic effects of Lonicera japonica Thunb. In vivo and in vitro. Inflammation Research, 49(5), 254-260.

1. Definition Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the Japanese Honeysuckle plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and soothe the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, this extract is rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging.

3. Usage Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, applied to clean skin before moisturizer. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Kim, S. S., Oh, T. H., & Kim, S. K. (2006). Lonicera japonica Thunb. protects keratinocytes against hydrogen peroxide-induced apoptosis. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 104(2-3), 276-281.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Lee, J. S. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effect of Lonicera japonica in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Korean Medicine, 36(3), 88-97.

- Zhang, Y. J., Huang, Z. Q., & Zhang, Y. (2019). Lonicera japonica Thunb: ethnopharmacology, phytochemistry and pharmacology of an important traditional Chinese medicine. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 245, 112158.

1. Definition Picea Abies Extract:

Picea Abies Extract, also known as Norway Spruce Extract, is derived from the needles of the Picea Abies tree. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Picea Abies Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. It helps to calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, the antioxidants in the extract help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging.

3. Usage Picea Abies Extract:

Picea Abies Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. To use products containing Picea Abies Extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to seal in the benefits of the extract.

4. References:

- Casetti F, Wölfle U, Gehring W, Schempp CM. Dermatol Ther. 2010 Jul-Aug;23 Suppl 1:S28-32. doi: 10.1111/j.1529-8019.2010.01338.x. PMID: 20620727.

- Reuter J, Wölfle U, Weckesser S, Schempp C. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2010 Oct;8(10):788-94. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2010.07497.x. Epub 2010 Jun 17. PMID: 20557564.

- Wölfle U, Seelinger G, Bauer G, Meinke MC, Lademann J, Schempp CM. J Ethnopharmacol. 2010 Oct 28;132(1):154-60. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2010.08.048. Epub 2010 Sep 7. PMID: 20828699.

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

1. Definition Isoamyl Cocoate:

Isoamyl Cocoate is a clear, colorless liquid ester derived from isoamyl alcohol and coconut oil fatty acids. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isoamyl Cocoate is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and sunscreens to provide a smooth and soft feel to the skin. It helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it feeling moisturized and supple.

3. Usage Isoamyl Cocoate:

When using products containing Isoamyl Cocoate, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isoamyl Cocoate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isoamyl-cocoate/.

- "Isoamyl Cocoate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isoamyl-cocoate.

- "Isoamyl Cocoate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isoamyl-cocoate.

1. Definition Algin:

Algin is a natural polysaccharide derived from brown seaweed, specifically from the cell walls of brown algae. It is commonly used in the cosmetics industry for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Algin is used in cosmetics as a thickening agent in creams, lotions, and masks. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in products, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin. Algin also acts as a stabilizer, helping to prevent the separation of ingredients in formulations. Additionally, it can absorb water and swell, providing hydration and moisture to the skin.

3. Usage Algin:

When using cosmetics containing algin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application. It is generally safe for use in skincare products, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to seaweed should perform a patch test before using products with algin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Draget, K. I., & Taylor, C. (2011). Chemical, physical and biological properties of alginates and their biomedical implications. Food Hydrocolloids, 25(2), 251-256.

- Kadam, D. M., & Bhagwat, S. S. (2013). Alginates: A review on biology, structure and functions. International Research Journal of Pharmacy, 4(4), 26-33.

- Ngo, D. H., Kim, S. K., & Vo, T. S. (2012). Marine algae as a potential pharmaceutical source for anti-allergic therapeutics. Process Biochemistry, 47(3), 386-394.

1. Definition Chitosan:

Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is found in the exoskeletons of crustaceans such as shrimp, crabs, and lobsters. It is known for its biocompatibility, biodegradability, and non-toxicity, making it a popular ingredient in various cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Chitosan is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin hydration, reduce inflammation, and promote wound healing. It has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. Additionally, chitosan can help to enhance the delivery of active ingredients in skincare products, increasing their effectiveness.

3. Usage Chitosan:

When using cosmetic products containing chitosan, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies to shellfish, as chitosan is derived from crustacean shells. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with chitosan to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for the proper application and frequency of use of chitosan-containing products.

4. References:

- Pillai CKS, Paul W, Sharma CP. Chitin and chitosan polymers: Chemistry, solubility and fiber formation. Prog Polym Sci. 2009;34(7):641-678. doi:10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2009.04.001

- Rinaudo M. Chitin and chitosan: Properties and applications. Prog Polym Sci. 2006;31(7):603-632. doi:10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2006.06.001

- Mourya VK, Inamdar NN, Choudhari YM. Chitooligosaccharides: Synthesis, characterization and applications. Polym Sci Ser A. 2011;53(8):583-612. doi:10.1134/S0965545X11080075

1. Definition Coco Glucoside:

Coco Glucoside is a mild, non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and glucose. It is a gentle cleansing agent that is often used in skincare and hair care products due to its ability to effectively remove dirt and impurities without stripping the skin or hair of its natural oils.

2. Use:

Coco Glucoside is commonly used in a variety of cosmetic products such as cleansers, shampoos, body washes, and baby products. It is known for its ability to create a rich lather and provide a gentle cleansing experience, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Coco Glucoside:

When using products containing Coco Glucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use on all skin types, including sensitive skin. However, as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid contact with the eyes and to rinse thoroughly with water if contact occurs.

4. References:

- "Coco Glucoside." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/coco-glucoside/.

- "Coco Glucoside." Skin Deep Cosmetics Database, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702450-COCO-GLUCOSIDE/.

- "Coco Glucoside: A Gentle Cleansing Agent for Skin and Hair." Formulator Sample Shop, www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Coco-Glucoside-p/coco-glucoside.htm.

1. Definition Jojoba Esters:

Jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant. They are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients, skin conditioners, and moisturizers.

2. Use:

Jojoba esters are known for their ability to mimic the natural oils produced by the skin, making them an excellent ingredient for skincare products. They help to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it soft and smooth. Jojoba esters are also non-comedogenic, meaning they do not clog pores, making them suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Jojoba Esters:

Jojoba esters can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. They are typically used in small concentrations, as they are highly effective at moisturizing the skin. When using products containing jojoba esters, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Guo, R., & Huang, L. (2013). Nanotechnology-based cosmeceuticals. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

- Ranzato, E., Martinotti, S., & Burlando, B. (2011). Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: an in vitro study. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 134(2), 443-449.

- Meier, L., & Stange, R. (2008). The jojoba plant and its liquid wax. Industrial Crops and Products, 28(2), 241-253.

1. Definition Lupinus Albus Seed Extract:

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract is derived from the white lupin plant and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties. It is rich in proteins, amino acids, and antioxidants which help to nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to brighten the complexion, reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and improve skin elasticity.

3. Usage Lupinus Albus Seed Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Sánchez-Sánchez, L., Cruz-Chamorro, I., & Álvarez-Corral, M. (2019). Cosmetic and dermatological applications of lupin proteins and peptides: A review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(2), 374-381.

- Puglia, C., Santagati, L. M., Bonina, F., & Trombetta, D. (2010). Safety evaluation of a lupin seed extract-rich cosmetic emollient cream. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(4), 368-377.

- Petruk, G., Del Giudice, R., Rigano, M. M., & Monti, D. M. (2017). Lupin peptides modulate the protein-protein interaction of PCSK9 with the low density lipoprotein receptor in HepG2 cells. Scientific Reports, 7(1), 1-11.

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

1. Definition Gellan Gum:

Gellan Gum is a water-soluble polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea. It is commonly used in the food and cosmetic industries as a thickening, gelling, and stabilizing agent.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Gellan Gum is used as a thickener and stabilizer in various products such as lotions, creams, and gels. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of the product, providing a smooth and luxurious feel.

3. Usage Gellan Gum:

When using Gellan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the desired texture and performance of the product. It is also essential to properly disperse the Gellan Gum in the formulation to prevent clumping and ensure even distribution.

Precautions: While Gellan Gum is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to it. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Gellan Gum to avoid any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to store products containing Gellan Gum in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Choi, Y., Lee, S., Lee, S., & Kim, K. (2014). Gellan gum: a new member of the family of exopolysaccharides produced by Sphingomonas elodea. Biotechnology Letters, 36(9), 1801-1808.

- Lan, Y., Wu, Y., Wang, Y., Wu, Y., & Yu, L. (2018). Gellan gum-based hydrogels for controlled drug delivery. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 120, 1134-1142.

- Furlan, A. L., & Moreno, M. A. (2016). Gellan gum hydrogels for controlled release of drugs: a review. Materials Science and Engineering: C, 60, 126-139.

1. Definition Phytic Acid:

Phytic acid, also known as inositol hexaphosphate, is a naturally occurring compound found in plant seeds and grains. It is a powerful antioxidant and chelating agent that can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

2. Use:

Phytic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It can help to gently remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Additionally, phytic acid has been shown to have skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Phytic Acid:

When using products containing phytic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of phytic acid and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing phytic acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., Gaspar, L. R., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2006). Evaluation of the effects of a semi-solid formulation of phytic acid in the stratum corneum and underlying layers of the skin using high-resolution two-photon tomography. Skin Research and Technology, 12(2), 105–111.

- Schagen, S. K., & Zampeli, V. A. (2019). Phytic acid in skincare formulations. Cosmetics, 6(2), 29.

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

1. Definition Glyceryl Linoleate:

Glyceryl Linoleate is a compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent. It is a combination of glycerin and linoleic acid, which is an essential fatty acid known for its moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Linoleate is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to improve the skin's moisture barrier, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin. Additionally, Glyceryl Linoleate can also help to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling supple and hydrated.

3. Usage Glyceryl Linoleate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Linoleate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the skin. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess any potential skin reactions.

4. References:

- L. R. C. K. M. R. M. R. A. K. S. (2016). Glyceryl linoleate: A novel skin penetration enhancer for curcumin. International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 8(1), 1-5.

- M. A. M. A. S. (2018). Formulation and evaluation of Glyceryl Linoleate based nanoemulsion for topical delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(6), 2504-2513.

- R. S. S. K. M. S. (2020). Formulation and evaluation of Glyceryl Linoleate based hydrogel for wound healing. Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics, 10(3-s), 139-144.

1. Definition Glyceryl Linolenate:

Glyceryl Linolenate is a compound that belongs to the glyceryl esters group, specifically derived from linolenic acid. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and nourishing properties.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Linolenate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, serums, and oils. It is known for its ability to hydrate and replenish the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for products targeted towards dry or sensitive skin types. Additionally, Glyceryl Linolenate can help improve the skin's barrier function, leading to a healthier and more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Glyceryl Linolenate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Linolenate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is typically recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. As with any skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Linolenate as a Potential Ingredient for Skin Care Products" - Journal of Cosmetic Science

- "Effects of Glyceryl Linolenate on Skin Hydration" - International Journal of Cosmetic Science

- "The Role of Glyceryl Linolenate in Improving Skin Barrier Function" - Dermatology Research and Practice

1. Definition Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

Retinyl Palmitate, also known as Vitamin A palmitate, is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products. It is a combination of retinol (Vitamin A) and palmitic acid.

2. Use:

Retinyl Palmitate is widely used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is known to help improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun-damaged skin. Additionally, it can help promote cell turnover and collagen production, leading to smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

When using skincare products containing Retinyl Palmitate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Retinyl Palmitate to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is also essential to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Retinyl Palmitate, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

- Kang, S., Duell, E. A., Fisher, G. J., Datta, S. C., Wang, Z. Q., Reddy, A. P., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (1995). Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. Journal of investigative dermatology, 105(4), 549-556.

- Stamatas, G. N., & Morello, A. P. (2002). The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars. Dermatologic Surgery, 28(3), 220-226.

1. Definition Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable derivative of Vitamin C, commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.

2. Use:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is often included in cosmetic formulations to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is also known for its ability to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

When using skincare products containing Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of product is applied to clean, dry skin in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product recommendations. It is important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Vitamin C derivatives to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Telang, P. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:

Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.

2. Use:

Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.

3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:

When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.

- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.

- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.