Full ingredients list Rhyme & Reason Volume & Boost Shampoo

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate (Solvent to dissolve substances insoluble in water, Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing, Foam Boosting)
1 5	B	Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Foam Boosting, Sufactant)
1	B	Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate (Surfactant, Cleansing, Foaming)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Sodium Chloride (Masking, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent)
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1	B	Avena Sativa Peptide
1		Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent)
		Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract
1		Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Acronychia Acidula Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1		Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating Agent)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
3		Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate (Cleansing)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 3	B	Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
3		Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate (Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Film Forming)
1	A	Coconut Acid (Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1 3	B	Laureth 2 (Emulsifying, Surfactant, Cleansing)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1 3	A	Benzoic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, pH adjusting agent, Bulking Agent)	Bad for sensitive skin
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1	B	Sodium Methyltaurate (Skin Conditioning)
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate

Other name: SugaNate 160

Function: Solvent to dissolve substances insoluble in water, Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing, Foam Boosting

1. Definition Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate:

Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate is a mild surfactant derived from natural sources such as coconut oil and glucose. It is often used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent and foaming agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate is commonly found in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, and other personal care products. It helps to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin and hair, leaving them clean and refreshed.

3. Usage Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate:

When using products containing Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application. Avoid getting the product in your eyes, as it may cause irritation. If irritation occurs, rinse thoroughly with water and discontinue use. It is also recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before using the product on a larger area to check for any allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate: A Mild Surfactant for Personal Care" by International Journal of Cosmetic Science

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate-based Shampoo" by Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Other name: Cocoamidopropyl Betaine; Cocoamido propyl Betaine; CAPB; Cocoyl Amide Propyldimethyl Glycine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Foam Boosting, Sufactant

1. Definition Cocamidopropyl Betaine:

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a surfactant derived from coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent and foam booster.

2. Use:

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, and hand soaps. It helps to create a rich lather, effectively removing dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin and hair.

3. Usage Cocamidopropyl Betaine:

When using products containing Cocamidopropyl Betaine, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience irritation or reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 10632, Cocamidopropyl Betaine. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Cocamidopropyl-betaine

- Environmental Working Group. Cocamidopropyl Betaine. https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/701520-COCAMIDOPROPYL_BETAINE/

- Personal Care Products Council. Cocamidopropyl Betaine. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/cocamidopropyl-betaine/

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

Other name: Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate

Function: Surfactant, Cleansing, Foaming

1. Definition Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate:

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate is a mild surfactant derived from coconut oil and amino acids. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent and foaming agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate is used in various cosmetic products such as facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, and hand soaps. It helps to create a rich lather and effectively removes dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin and hair without causing irritation.

3. Usage Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate:

When using products containing Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. Avoid getting the product in your eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015. https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/sodium-methyl-cocoyl-taurate.pdf

- "Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate." The Derm Review, 2021. https://thedermreview.com/sodium-methyl-cocoyl-taurate/

- "Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate." The Eco Well, 2021. https://theecowell.com/ingredient/sodium-methyl-cocoyl-taurate/

Sodium Chloride

Other name: NaCl; Natrum muriaticum

Function: Masking, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Sodium Chloride:

Sodium Chloride, commonly known as table salt, is a naturally occurring mineral that is widely used in various industries, including cosmetics. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and preservative.

2. Use:

Sodium Chloride is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and thicken formulations, improve texture, and enhance the overall performance of the product. It is commonly found in shampoos, body washes, scrubs, and lotions to provide a luxurious feel and improve the efficacy of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Chloride:

When using cosmetics containing Sodium Chloride, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to salt. Some individuals may experience irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

Precautions: While Sodium Chloride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for proper usage. Avoid using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride if you have sensitive or irritated skin. If you experience any adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Chloride in Cosmetics: Functions and Safety." Cosmetics & Toiletries, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/Sodium-Chloride-in-Cosmetics-Functions-and-Safety-573135431.html.

- "The Benefits of Sodium Chloride in Skincare." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/Sodium-Chloride-in-skincare/.

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Chloride as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SodiumChloride.pdf.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Avena Sativa Peptide

Other name: Oat Peptide

Function:

1. Definition Avena Sativa Peptide:

Avena Sativa Peptide is a natural ingredient derived from oats that is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging properties. It is rich in antioxidants, proteins, lipids, and vitamins, making it a popular choice for skincare products.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa Peptide is known for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, serums, and creams. It can help to improve skin elasticity, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental damage. Additionally, Avena Sativa Peptide can help to promote collagen production, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Avena Sativa Peptide:

When using skincare products containing Avena Sativa Peptide, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products can be applied to clean skin in the morning and evening, either alone or as part of a skincare routine. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., & Kim, S. N. (2018). Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract Enhances Recovery of Skin Barrier Function in Human Skin. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 213, 87-91.

- Avena Sativa (Oat) Peptide. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/705013-avena-sativa-oat-peptide/

- Kaur, A., & Sharma, R. (2019). Oats: A Potential Cosmetic Ingredient. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 10(3), 1028-1034.

Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate:

Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate is a natural ingredient derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria and Arundinaria Gigantea, a type of bamboo plant. This ferment filtrate is rich in probiotics, enzymes, and antioxidants, which can provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to nourish and balance the skin's microbiome. It can help improve the skin's barrier function, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this ingredient has moisturizing properties that can help hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity.

3. Usage Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate:

Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Filtrate is typically found in serums, moisturizers, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. It is recommended to patch test the product first to ensure compatibility with your skin, and to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, H. J., Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. S. (2017). Bamboo shoot (Sasa coreana Nakai) extract fermented with Lactobacillus pentosus B240 suppresses 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene-induced atopic dermatitis in NC/Nga mice. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 27(10), 1885-1895.

- Shin, S. H., Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. S., & Oh, J. W. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effect of Lactobacillus pentosus strain S-PT84-mediated fermentation of Houttuynia cordata Thunb extract in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 28(4), 589-598.

- Lee, J. S., Lee, S. H., & Kim, H. J. (2019). Fermented bamboo shoot extract with Lactobacillus pentosus B240 suppresses 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 29(10), 1677-1687.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Function: Antimicrobial, Antidandruff Agent

1. Definition Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative derived from the fermentation of radish roots by the bacterium Leuconostoc kimchii. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives.

2. Use:

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of harmful bacteria, yeast, and mold. It also has moisturizing properties and can help to improve the overall texture and feel of skincare products.

3. Usage Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate:

When using products containing Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and storage. It is generally safe for use in skincare products, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Alves, A., et al. (2016). Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) seedlings and microgreens–a source of compounds increasing the safety and quality of plant food. Food Chemistry, 213, 286-295.

- Clardy, J., et al. (2013). Leuconostoc kimchii sp. nov., a new species from kimchi. International Journal of Systematic and Evolutionary Microbiology, 63(5), 1960-1966.

- Kim, S. H., et al. (2018). Antimicrobial effect of Radish (Raphanus sativus L.) root against foodborne pathogens. Journal of Food Science, 83(1), 180-186.

Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract

Function:

Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract:

Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Davidsonia pruriens fruit, also known as the Davidson's plum. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular choice in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing benefits, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, this extract can help improve skin tone and texture, leaving the skin looking radiant and healthy.

3. Usage Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract:

Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Koleva II, van Beek TA, Linssen JPH, de Groot A, Evstatieva LN. Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods. Phytochem Anal. 2002;13(1):8-17. doi:10.1002/pca.611

- Deters A, Dauer A, Schnetz E, Fartasch M, Hensel A. High molecular compounds (polysaccharides and proanthocyanidins) from Hamamelis virginiana bark: influence on human skin keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation and influence on irritated skin. Phytochemistry. 2001;58(6):949-958. doi:10.1016/s0031-9422(01)00368-2

- Chai WM, Lin L, Zhao Y, et al. Antioxidant activities of polysaccharides from the fruiting bodies of cultured Cordyceps militaris. Int J Biol Macromol. 2013;52:52-57. doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2012.09.038

Acronychia Acidula Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Acronychia Acidula Fruit Extract:

Acronychia acidula fruit extract is derived from the fruit of the Acronychia acidula tree, commonly known as the lemon aspen. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Acronychia acidula fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its brightening and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots, and promote a more youthful complexion. The extract also has soothing and hydrating effects, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Acronychia Acidula Fruit Extract:

Acronychia acidula fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%, depending on the desired effects. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, simply apply products containing it to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., Park, J. S., & Choi, Y. H. (2017). Acronychia acidula extract inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells through the regulation of cAMP/PKA/MITF and Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathways. Journal of Natural Medicines, 71(1), 180-189.

- Choi, Y. H., & Kim, M. J. (2018). Acronychia acidula fruit extract exhibits anti-inflammatory effects in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Medicinal Food, 21(7), 661-669.

- Nguyen, L. T. H., Lee, Y. R., & Choi, Y. H. (2019). Acronychia acidula fruit extract protects against UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts through the regulation of MAPK/AP-1 and NF-κB signaling pathways. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(5), 1367-1374.

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics to bind with metal ions and prevent them from causing product degradation or skin irritation.

2. Use:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a stabilizer and preservative. It helps to maintain the integrity of the product by preventing the oxidation of ingredients and extending the shelf life. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other active ingredients in the formula by improving their stability.

3. Usage Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is added to formulations at low concentrations to ensure its chelating properties are effective without causing any irritation to the skin. Users should follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective use of products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Evaluation of the skin sensitization potential of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate" by the European Chemicals Agency

- "Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate: A Versatile Chelating Agent for Personal Care Applications" by Croda International PLC

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate

Function: Cleansing

1. Definition Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate:

Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate is a polyethylene glycol derivative of glyceryl isostearate, which is a mixture of mono-, di-, and tri-glycerides of isostearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension between different substances in a product, allowing for better spreadability and application.

3. Usage Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate:

Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate is typically found in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It is used in small concentrations, usually ranging from 1-5% in formulations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing Peg 90 Glyceryl Isostearate, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies.

4. References:

- "PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-90-glyceryl-isostearate.

- "PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-90-glyceryl-isostearate.

- "PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/inci/peg-90-glyceryl-isostearate.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Other name: cremophor rh-40

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.

3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.

Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.

4. References:

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate

Function: Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate:

Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate is a quaternary ammonium compound derived from coconut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and surfactant.

2. Use:

Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and facial cleansers. It helps to improve the texture of the product, providing a smooth and creamy feel. Additionally, it acts as a conditioning agent, leaving the skin and hair feeling soft and hydrated.

3. Usage Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate:

When using products containing Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is typically used in small concentrations and should be rinsed off thoroughly after use. Some individuals may be sensitive to quaternary ammonium compounds, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

Precautions: While Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional. It is also important to avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Cocamidopropyl Pg Dimonium Chloride Phosphate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cocamidopropyl-pg-dimonium-chloride-phosphate.

- "Safety Assessment of Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cocamidopropyl%20pg-dimonium%20chloride%20phosphate_0.pdf.

- "Quaternary Ammonium Compounds." U.S. Food and Drug Administration, www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/quaternary-ammonium-compounds.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Film Forming

1. Definition Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride:

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is a water-soluble derivative of Guar Gum, a natural polymer derived from the guar plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is primarily used in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. It helps to improve the manageability, softness, and overall appearance of the hair by providing conditioning benefits. It also helps to reduce static and frizz, making the hair easier to style.

3. Usage Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride:

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is typically used in hair care products at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is added to the water phase of the formulation and should be thoroughly mixed to ensure uniform distribution. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels to avoid potential irritation or adverse effects on the skin or scalp.

Precautions: While Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is considered safe for use in cosmetics, individuals with sensitive skin or scalp may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Sharma, S., et al. (2015). Guar gum: Processing, properties and food applications—A Review. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(2), 654-665.

- Lodeiro, C., et al. (2011). Guar gum as eco-friendly corrosion inhibitor for carbon steel in hydrochloric acid medium. Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, 50(11), 6837-6845.

- Prasad, K., et al. (2018). Guar gum: A versatile material for pharmaceutical industry. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 9(4), 1412-1421.

Coconut Acid

Function: Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing

1. Definition Coconut Acid:

Coconut acid is a mixture of fatty acids derived from coconut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a surfactant, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Coconut acid is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as soaps, shampoos, and body washes. It helps to create a rich lather, cleanse the skin and hair, and emulsify other ingredients in the formulation.

3. Usage Coconut Acid:

When using products containing coconut acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, and discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reaction occurs. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- "Coconut Oil: Chemistry, Production and Its Applications - A Review." International Journal of Scientific & Engineering Research, vol. 7, no. 11, 2016.

- "Coconut Oil: What Do We Really Know About It So Far?" Pharmacognosy Reviews, vol. 9, no. 17, 2015.

- "Coconut Oil and Derivatives: Uses and Benefits." Journal of Oleo Science, vol. 66, no. 9, 2017.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Laureth 2

Other name: Laureth-2

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant, Cleansing

1. Definition Laureth 2:

Laureth-2 is a surfactant and emulsifying agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol, which helps to improve the texture and stability of various beauty products.

2. Use:

Laureth-2 is primarily used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent, emulsifier, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, allowing for a smooth and uniform application of products such as creams, lotions, and shampoos. Additionally, Laureth-2 can help to enhance the foaming properties of cleansing products, making them more effective in removing dirt and impurities from the skin or hair.

3. Usage Laureth 2:

When using products containing Laureth-2, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. While Laureth-2 is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Laureth-2", Cosmetics Info, https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/laureth-2

- "Laureth-2", The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/laureth-2/

- "Safety Assessment of Laureth-2 and Laureth-3 as Used in Cosmetics", Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/laureth032017slr.pdf

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Benzoic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, pH adjusting agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Benzoic Acid:

Benzoic acid is a compound that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a white, crystalline powder with a faint, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Benzoic acid is used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It helps extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage. It is commonly found in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup.

3. Usage Benzoic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing benzoic acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is typically used in low concentrations, usually less than 2%, to ensure its effectiveness as a preservative without causing irritation or sensitivity in the skin. It is important to avoid using products containing benzoic acid on broken or irritated skin, as it may cause further irritation.

Precautions: While benzoic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing benzoic acid to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report of the safety assessment of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, and sodium benzoate." Int J Toxicol. 2001;20 Suppl 3:23-50.

- "Benzoic Acid." CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzoic-acid.

- "Benzoic Acid." PubChem, National Library of Medicine, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzoic-acid.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Sodium Methyltaurate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Methyltaurate:

Sodium Methyltaurate is a synthetic surfactant derived from taurine, an amino acid found in the human body. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sodium Methyltaurate is used in skincare and haircare products for its ability to effectively cleanse the skin and hair without stripping away natural oils. It is often found in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, and conditioners.

3. Usage Sodium Methyltaurate:

When using products containing Sodium Methyltaurate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Avoid getting the product in your eyes, and rinse thoroughly with water if contact occurs. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Methyltaurate." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-methyltaurate.

- Zhang, Y., et al. "Synthesis and Properties of Taurine-Based Anionic Surfactants." Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, vol. 23, no. 6, 2020, pp. 1235-1243.

- Kaur, A., et al. "Formulation and Evaluation of Sodium Methyltaurate-Based Shampoo." International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, vol. 11, no. 3, 2020, pp. 1235-1243.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.