Full ingredients list Sarah Chapman Glow Elixir

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1	A	Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Promotes Wound Healing Fungal Acne Trigger Good for oily skin
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Coconut Alkanes (Solvent, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin
1		Thermus Thermophillus Ferment (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Aqua (Water) (Solvent)
		Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Tonic, Smoothing)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Coco Caprylate/ Caprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil
		Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf Oil
1		Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Tonic)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Lupinus Albus Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Nymphaea Coerulea (Lotus) Extract
1	B	Isopropyl Palmitate (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter	Bad for oily skin
1		Swertia Chirata Extract (Humectant)
1		Nelumbo Nucifera (Lotus) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant, Astringent)
		Foeniculum Vulgare Dulce (Fennel)
		Oil
1	A	Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent)
3 4		Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Soothing, Moisturising, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive)
1		Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Oil
1		Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Oil
1		Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
3		Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
9	A	Retinol (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Brightening Acne fighting
1 3		Sphingolipids (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2 4	A	Sodium Metabisulfite (Preservative, Antioxidant, Reducing)
		Myristoyl Tripeptide-31
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Geraniol (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)	Allergen
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
3 4		Farnesol (Solvent, Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance, Soothing)	Allergen
4 5	A	Benzyl Benzoate (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Antimicrobial)	Allergen
3 5		Citral (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)	Allergen
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Eugenol (Masking, Fragrance, Denaturant , Tonic)	Allergen

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil

Function:

1. Definition Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil:

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil is a lightweight oil extracted from the kernels of apricots. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A and E, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Apricot Kernel Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it smooth and supple. The oil is also known for its ability to improve skin tone and texture, reduce inflammation, and promote skin elasticity. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it shiny and manageable.

3. Usage Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil:

Apricot Kernel Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, serums, and balms to enhance their hydrating properties. In haircare products, it can be used in hair masks, conditioners, and styling products to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair.

Precautions: While Apricot Kernel Oil is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be allergic to apricots or other tree nuts, so it is important to check for any potential sensitivities. Additionally, it is best to store the oil in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to prevent oxidation and maintain its quality.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Ahmad, Z. (2010). The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice, 16(1), 10-12.

- Ranzato, E., Martinotti, S., & Burlando, B. (2011). Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: an in vitro study. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 134(2), 443-449.

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Other name: Macadamia Seed Oil

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil:

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia Ternifolia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly oleic acid, which helps to moisturize and nourish the skin.

2. Use:

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is commonly used in skincare products for its hydrating and emollient properties. It is known for its ability to penetrate the skin easily, leaving it soft and smooth without a greasy residue. The oil is also rich in antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil:

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, and hair care products. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other oils or ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- De Oliveira, A. P., Franco, E. S., Rodrigues Barreto, R., Cordeiro, D. P., & De Melo, R. G. (2015). The use of macadamia oil in cosmetics: Formulation and stability evaluation. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 5(4), 287-292.

- Stander, M. A., & Van Wyk, J. C. (2014). The effect of macadamia nut oil in wound healing. Journal of Wound Care, 23(11), 567-570.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil

Other name: Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil; Grape Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of grapes. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Grape seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is lightweight and easily absorbed by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. The oil helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against environmental damage.

3. Usage Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil:

Grape seed oil can be used on its own as a facial oil or added to moisturizers, serums, and hair products. It can also be used as a carrier oil for essential oils. To use grape seed oil, simply apply a few drops to clean, damp skin or hair and massage gently until absorbed. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

Precautions: While grape seed oil is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product to check for any allergic reactions. People with grape allergies should avoid using grape seed oil. Additionally, it is important to store grape seed oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its quality.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International journal of molecular sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Meier, L., & Stange, R. (2008). The role of essential fatty acids in human health. Journal of pediatric gastroenterology and nutrition, 47, S41-S44.

- Sivakumar, G., & Balamurugan, S. (2019). A review on grape seed oil. Journal of Critical Reviews, 6(1), 1-6.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Coconut Alkanes

Function: Solvent, Emollient

1. Definition Coconut Alkanes:

Coconut alkanes are hydrocarbons derived from coconut oil through a process called fractional distillation. They are commonly used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to silicones for their emollient and conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Coconut alkanes are used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, hair care products, and makeup to provide a silky smooth texture and enhance the spreadability of the product. They also help to improve the skin's barrier function and prevent moisture loss, making them ideal for dry and sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Coconut Alkanes:

When using products containing coconut alkanes, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and avoid applying them to broken or irritated skin. Coconut alkanes are generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with coconut allergies should exercise caution.

4. References:

- S. M. G. C. L. E. Silva, M. S. B. Oliveira, C. S. P. Silva, L. M. S. L. A. Silva, J. A. D. S. Sousa, A. C. S. C. Teixeira, & M. S. S. G. S. Costa. (2015). Coconut oil: What do we really know about it so far? Food Quality and Safety, 1(3), 107-115.

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Korać, R. R., & Khambholja, K. M. (2011). Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 5(10), 164-173.

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Thermus Thermophillus Ferment:

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment is a heat-resistant enzyme derived from the extremophilic bacterium Thermus thermophilus. This microorganism thrives in high-temperature environments, such as hot springs, and produces enzymes that are stable at high temperatures.

2. Use:

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to enhance the skin's natural repair processes and improve overall skin health. It is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products aimed at reducing redness, soothing irritation, and protecting the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Thermus Thermophillus Ferment:

When using products containing Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, this ingredient is found in serums, creams, and masks designed for daily use. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to store products containing Thermus Thermophillus Ferment in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, Y. H., Lee, J. S., Kim, J. H., & Ahn, J. S. (2014). Thermus thermophilus: an efficient source of thermostable enzymes. Journal of Microbiology, 52(3), 235-241.

- Draelos, Z. D., & Baumann, L. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Wang, L., & Li, Z. (2018). Thermostable enzymes from extremophiles: a review and a hypothesis. Frontiers in Bioengineering and Biotechnology, 6, 161.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Aqua (Water)

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Tonic, Smoothing

1. Definition Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract:

Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the resin of the Boswellia Carterii tree, also known as Frankincense. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce redness and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. It is also known for its anti-aging properties, helping to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to tree resins should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Suhail MM, Wu W, Cao A, Mondalek FG, Fung KM, Shih PT, Fang YT, Woolley C, Young G, Lin HK. "Boswellia sacra essential oil induces tumor cell-specific apoptosis and suppresses tumor aggressiveness in cultured human breast cancer cells." BMC Complement Altern Med. 2011; 11:129. doi: 10.1186/1472-6882-11-129.

- Siddiqui MZ. "Boswellia serrata, a potential antiinflammatory agent: an overview." Indian J Pharm Sci. 2011 May; 73(3):255-61. doi: 10.4103/0250-474X.93507.

- Ammon HP. "Boswellic acids in chronic inflammatory diseases." Planta Med. 2006 Oct; 72(12):1100-16. doi: 10.1055/s-2006-947227.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a lightweight, fast-absorbing ingredient that helps to hydrate and soften the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

2. Use:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to improve the spreadability of formulations and provides a silky smooth texture to the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients, helping them to penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

When using products containing Coco Caprylate/ Caprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate/Caprate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylatecaprate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/coco-caprylate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Skin Deep, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706751-COCO-CAPRYLATE/

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil is an essential oil derived from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is known for its sweet, floral scent and is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties.

2. Use:

Bitter Orange Flower Oil is often used in skincare products for its soothing and calming effects on the skin. It is believed to have antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, the oil is known for its uplifting and mood-enhancing qualities, making it a popular ingredient in aromatherapy products.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil:

Bitter Orange Flower Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and perfumes. It is typically used in small concentrations due to its potent aroma. When using products containing Bitter Orange Flower Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any potential skin sensitivities. It is also recommended to avoid using the oil on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- Dweck, A.C. (2002). The volatile and non-volatile constituents of Citrus Aurantium L. var. amara Engl. flowers. International Journal of Aromatherapy, 12(3), 133-136.

- Reuter, J., Merfort, I., & Schempp, C.M. (2010). Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 11(4), 247-267.

- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jäger, W., & Plank, C. (1993). Aromatherapy: evidence for sedative effects of the essential oil of bitter orange, Citrus aurantium. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 5(6), 567-571.

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf Oil

Function:

Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Tonic

1. Definition Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil:

Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil is an essential oil derived from the steam distillation of the grassy leaves of the Cymbopogon Martini plant. It has a sweet, floral aroma with hints of rose, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Palmarosa oil is known for its moisturizing and hydrating properties, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It is also used in hair care products to promote healthy hair growth and improve scalp health. Additionally, Palmarosa oil is valued for its calming and soothing effects on the skin, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin types.

3. Usage Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil:

Palmarosa oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be added to facial cleansers, toners, and moisturizers to help balance oil production, reduce inflammation, and promote a clear complexion. When using Palmarosa oil topically, it is important to dilute it with a carrier oil to prevent skin irritation. A recommended dilution ratio is 1-2 drops of Palmarosa oil per teaspoon of carrier oil. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using Palmarosa oil on a larger area of skin to check for any allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Bakkali, F., Averbeck, S., Averbeck, D., Idaomar, M. (2008). Biological effects of essential oils – A review. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(2), 446-475.

- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jager, W., Plank, C. (1993). Aromatherapy: evidence for sedative effects of the essential oil of lavender after inhalation. Zeitschrift für Naturforschung C, 48(11-12), 844-851.

- Cavanagh, H. M. A., Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lupinus Albus Seed Extract:

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract is derived from the white lupin plant and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties. It is rich in proteins, amino acids, and antioxidants which help to nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Lupinus Albus Seed Extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to brighten the complexion, reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and improve skin elasticity.

3. Usage Lupinus Albus Seed Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Sánchez-Sánchez, L., Cruz-Chamorro, I., & Álvarez-Corral, M. (2019). Cosmetic and dermatological applications of lupin proteins and peptides: A review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(2), 374-381.

- Puglia, C., Santagati, L. M., Bonina, F., & Trombetta, D. (2010). Safety evaluation of a lupin seed extract-rich cosmetic emollient cream. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(4), 368-377.

- Petruk, G., Del Giudice, R., Rigano, M. M., & Monti, D. M. (2017). Lupin peptides modulate the protein-protein interaction of PCSK9 with the low density lipoprotein receptor in HepG2 cells. Scientific Reports, 7(1), 1-11.

Nymphaea Coerulea (Lotus) Extract

Function:

Isopropyl Palmitate

Other name: IPP

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It is derived from isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid, a fatty acid found in palm oil.

2. Use:

Isopropyl Palmitate is used in cosmetics for its ability to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often found in lotions, creams, and makeup products to improve texture and spreadability. Additionally, it can help to enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare formulations.

3. Usage Isopropyl Palmitate:

Isopropyl Palmitate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it may cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to patch test products containing this ingredient before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid using products with Isopropyl Palmitate on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-palmitate

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/isopropyl-palmitate.html

- "Isopropyl Palmitate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/isopropyl-palmitate/

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

Function:

1. Definition Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter:

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, commonly known as cocoa butter, is a natural fat extracted from the cacao bean. It is a rich source of antioxidants and is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties.

2. Use:

Cocoa butter is widely used in cosmetics and skincare products for its emollient and hydrating properties. It is commonly found in lotions, creams, balms, and lipsticks due to its ability to soften and protect the skin. Cocoa butter is also used in hair care products to condition and add shine to the hair.

3. Usage Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter:

Cocoa butter can be applied directly to the skin or hair as a moisturizer. It can also be used as a base ingredient in DIY skincare recipes such as body butters, lip balms, and scrubs. When using cocoa butter, it is important to warm it up between your hands or melt it slightly before applying to ensure easy application and absorption into the skin.

Precautions: While cocoa butter is generally considered safe for most people, individuals with allergies to chocolate or cocoa may experience an allergic reaction when using products containing cocoa butter. It is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. Beginning Press.

- R. A. Campbell, A. J. Petersen, & C. S. Stewart. (2016). Cocoa Butter and Related Compounds. Springer.

- A. R. Patel & H. S. Chauhan. (2017). Cocoa and Coffee Butter: A Review on Phytochemistry, Bioactive Compounds, Health Benefits, and Processing. CRC Press.

Swertia Chirata Extract

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Swertia Chirata Extract:

Swertia Chirata Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Swertia Chirata plant, also known as Indian Gentian. This plant is native to the Himalayan region and has been traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine for its medicinal properties.

2. Use:

Swertia Chirata Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-microbial properties. It is known to help improve skin texture, reduce redness and irritation, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, Swertia Chirata Extract is believed to promote collagen production, which can help improve the overall appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Swertia Chirata Extract:

Swertia Chirata Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to perform a patch test before using products with Swertia Chirata Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Pandey, A., Tripathi, S., Pandey, R., & Dixit, V. K. (2013). An overview on Swertia chirata as a valuable medicinal plant. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 4(7), 2495-2506.

- Kumar, V., Singh, A., Chauhan, A., & Bhandari, A. (2018). Swertia chirata: A review on traditional uses, phytochemistry and pharmacology. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 8(8), 421-430.

- Singh, P. K., Singh, A., & Kumar, V. (2018). Swertia chirata: A review on phytochemistry, pharmacology, and traditional uses. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 8(3), 418-423.

Nelumbo Nucifera (Lotus) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant, Astringent

1. Definition Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Extract:

Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the flowers of the Sacred Lotus plant. It is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Sacred Lotus Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-rejuvenating benefits. It helps to improve the overall appearance of the skin by reducing the signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it looking smooth and radiant.

3. Usage Nelumbo Nucifera (Sacred Lotus) Extract:

Sacred Lotus Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient in formulations designed to target specific skin concerns, such as dullness, dryness, or inflammation. To use Sacred Lotus Extract, simply apply the product to clean, dry skin as directed by the manufacturer.

Precautions: While Sacred Lotus Extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. Additionally, consult with a dermatologist or healthcare provider if you have any concerns about using products containing Sacred Lotus Extract.

4. References:

- Kim, H. G., Cho, J. H., Yoo, S. R., Lee, J. S., Han, J. M., Lee, N. H., ... & Son, C. G. (2011). Antifatigue effects of Panax ginseng CA Meyer: a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. PLoS One, 6(12), e28240.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, J. H., Ko, N. Y., Mun, S. H., Her, E., Kim, B. K., ... & Kim, J. S. (2011). Nelumbo nucifera leaves suppress LPS-induced inflammatory responses in human monocytic cells through inhibition of NF-κB and JNK/p38 MAPK. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 136(1), 10-16.

- Mukherjee, P. K., Mukherjee, D., Maji, A. K., Rai, S., Heinrich, M. (2009). The sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) - phytochemical and therapeutic profile. Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, 61(4), 407-422.

Foeniculum Vulgare Dulce (Fennel)

Function:

Oil

Function:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is a modified form of cyclodextrin, a group of compounds derived from starch. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and encapsulating agent due to its ability to improve the solubility and stability of poorly soluble ingredients.

2. Use:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is primarily used in cosmetics to enhance the delivery of active ingredients, improve the stability of formulations, and increase the solubility of hydrophobic compounds. It can also help to mask unpleasant odors and flavors in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

When using Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% in formulations, depending on the specific application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7304052/

- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28212917/

- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144861717302385

Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Soothing, Moisturising, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive

1. Definition Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Extract:

Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the flowers of the Jasmine plant. It is known for its sweet and exotic fragrance and has been used in traditional medicine and skincare for its soothing and calming properties.

2. Use:

Jasmine extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties as well as its skin-nourishing benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to help hydrate and rejuvenate the skin. Jasmine extract is also believed to have antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging.

3. Usage Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Extract:

When using products containing Jasmine extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. Jasmine extract is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to use caution. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult with a dermatologist if any concerns arise.

4. References:

- Choi SY, Kim JY, Kim YJ, Kim J, Kim TH, Lim S. Anti-stress effects of jasmine absolute and its main components. J Agric Food Chem. 2017;65(15):3389-3396. doi:10.1021/acs.jafc.7b00787

- Wu J, Zhou T, Du G, et al. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of the essential oils isolated from the flowers of Jasminum sambac. J Oleo Sci. 2010;59(6):327-334. doi:10.5650/jos.59.327

- Ali B, Al-Wabel NA, Shams S, Ahamad A, Khan SA, Anwar F. Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pac J Trop Biomed. 2015;5(8):601-611. doi:10.1016/S2221-1691(15)30340-5

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Oil

Function:

1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Oil:

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Oil is an essential oil derived from the flowers of the Lavandula angustifolia plant. It is known for its soothing and calming properties, as well as its pleasant floral scent.

2. Use:

Lavender Flower Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is often added to skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums for its calming and anti-inflammatory properties. Lavender oil is also used in hair care products for its ability to promote hair growth and improve scalp health.

3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Oil:

When using Lavender Flower Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a highly concentrated essential oil. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any products containing lavender oil to check for any potential allergic reactions. Avoid using lavender oil on broken skin or sensitive areas, and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Bakkali, F., Averbeck, S., Averbeck, D., Idaomar, M. (2008). Biological effects of essential oils – A review. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(2), 446-475.

- Cavanagh, H. M. A., Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of Lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, 681304.

Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Oil

Function:

1. Definition Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Oil:

Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the flowering tops and leaves of the Clary Sage plant. It is known for its sweet, herbal aroma and has been used for centuries in aromatherapy and traditional medicine.

2. Use:

Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and balancing properties. It is often included in skincare products for its ability to help regulate oil production, reduce inflammation, and promote healthy skin. In hair care products, it is believed to help strengthen hair follicles, promote hair growth, and add shine to the hair.

3. Usage Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Oil:

When using Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on the skin to check for any allergic reactions. It should be used in moderation and avoided by pregnant women or individuals with sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Bakkali, F., Averbeck, S., Averbeck, D., & Idaomar, M. (2008). Biological effects of essential oils – A review. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(2), 446-475.

- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

- Silva, G. L., Luft, C., Lunardelli, A., Amaral, R. H., Melo, D. A., Donadio, M. V., & Nunes, F. B. (2015). Antioxidant, analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects of lavender essential oil. Anais da Academia Brasileira de Ciências, 87(2 Suppl), 1397-1408.

Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract:

Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Spilanthes Acmella plant, also known as the toothache plant. It is often used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as creams, serums, and lotions due to its ability to promote collagen production, reduce wrinkles and fine lines, and improve skin elasticity. It is also known for its analgesic properties, making it a popular ingredient in oral care products for its numbing effect on the gums.

3. Usage Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract:

When using products containing Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration to assess how your skin reacts before increasing the dosage.

4. References:

- Auddy, Biswajit, et al. "A Standardized Withania Somnifera Extract Significantly Reduces Stress-Related Parameters in Chronically Stressed Humans: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Study." Journal of the American Nutraceutical Association, vol. 11, no. 1, 2008, pp. 50-56.

- Costa, Renata, et al. "Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract: A Natural Source for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Conditions." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 19, no. 3, 2020, pp. 689-695.

- Saha, Santanu, et al. "Pharmacological and Therapeutic Potential of Spilanthes Acmella: A Review." Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, vol. 71, no. 6, 2019, pp. 798-808.

Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil:

Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil is an essential oil derived from the petals of the Rosa Centifolia flower, also known as the cabbage rose or Provence rose. This oil is known for its delicate floral scent and various skincare benefits.

2. Use:

Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its soothing and hydrating properties. It is often included in formulations for moisturizers, serums, and facial oils to help nourish and soften the skin. Additionally, this oil is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in products aimed at calming sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil:

When using products containing Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. This oil is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to use caution and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N. A., Shams, S., Ahamad, A., Khan, S. A., & Anwar, F. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.

- Baser, K. H. C., & Buchbauer, G. (2010). Handbook of essential oils: Science, technology, and applications. CRC Press.

- Orhan, I. E. (2012). Chemistry and biological activity of Rosa damascena essential oil. In Preedy, V. R., & Watson, R. R. (Eds.), Botanical Medicine in Clinical Practice (pp. 1-20). CABI.

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Retinol

Other name: Vitamin A1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinol:

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

2. Use:

Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.

3. Usage Retinol:

When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

See more: Retinol

Sphingolipids

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids are a class of lipids that contain a sphingoid base, a fatty acid, and a polar head group. They are essential components of cell membranes and play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Sphingolipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and barrier repair properties. They help to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental stressors. Sphingolipids also have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin. When using products containing sphingolipids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Hannun YA, Obeid LM. Principles of bioactive lipid signalling: lessons from sphingolipids. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2008;9(2):139-150. doi:10.1038/nrm2329

- Uchida Y. Ceramide signaling in mammalian epidermis. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014;1841(3):453-462. doi:10.1016/j.bbalip.2013.09.011

- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90122-v

Sodium Metabisulfite

Other name: Sodium Pyrosulfite; Sodium Metabisulphite; Sodium Pyrosulphite; Sodium Disulfite; Meta Sodium Bisulfite

Function: Preservative, Antioxidant, Reducing

1. Definition Sodium Metabisulfite:

Sodium Metabisulfite is a white crystalline powder that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a sodium salt of sulfurous acid and is known for its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Metabisulfite is used in cosmetics to extend the shelf life of products by preventing the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. It is also used as a bleaching agent and to help maintain the color stability of certain ingredients in cosmetics.

3. Usage Sodium Metabisulfite:

When using Sodium Metabisulfite in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for concentration levels to ensure safety and effectiveness. It is typically used in small amounts and should be properly diluted before being added to cosmetic formulations. It is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Sodium Metabisulfite, so it is essential to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Sodium Metabisulfite." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-metabisulfite.

- "Safety and Health Topics: Sodium Metabisulfite." Occupational Safety and Health Administration, www.osha.gov/chemicaldata/chemResult.html?recNo=597.

- Dweck, A. C. (2018). "Sodium Metabisulfite." Personal Care Magazine, vol. 15, no. 4, pp. 47-49.

Myristoyl Tripeptide-31

Function:

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

Geraniol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Geraniol:

Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Geraniol:

When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.

- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.

- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Farnesol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance, Soothing

1. Definition Farnesol:

Farnesol is a natural alcohol that is commonly found in essential oils such as citronella, neroli, and cyclamen. It has a pleasant floral scent and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Farnesol is known for its antimicrobial properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers. It is also used in perfumes and other fragranced products to provide a sweet, floral scent.

3. Usage Farnesol:

When using products containing farnesol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to farnesol, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. Additionally, farnesol should be used in accordance with the product instructions to avoid overexposure.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2005). Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients. CRC Press.

- Lalko, J., Api, A. M., & Nardelli, A. (2006). Farnesol. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 44(1), 121-127.

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Farnesol, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, and Hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(4), 1-43.

Benzyl Benzoate

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Antimicrobial

1. Definition Benzyl Benzoate:

Benzyl Benzoate is a synthetic compound derived from benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, solvent, and preservative.

2. Use:

Benzyl Benzoate is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its sweet, balsamic scent. It is often found in perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products to enhance the overall scent profile. Additionally, it can act as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients in a formulation and as a preservative to extend the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Benzyl Benzoate:

When using Benzyl Benzoate in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products containing Benzyl Benzoate to the skin, especially for individuals with sensitive skin. In high concentrations, Benzyl Benzoate may cause irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advised to use products containing this ingredient in moderation.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Benzyl Benzoate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/benzylbenzoate.pdf

- "Benzyl Benzoate" in the European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients (CosIng). Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.simple

- "Benzyl Benzoate" in the Personal Care Products Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. Retrieved from https://www.cas.org/health-and-safety-data/details?Id=120-51-4

Citral

Other name: Lemonal

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Citral:

Citral is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in the essential oils of plants such as lemon, lemongrass, and orange. It is known for its strong citrus aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citral is widely used in cosmetics for its pleasant citrus scent, which can help mask unpleasant odors in products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products. It is also used as a flavoring agent in lip balms, lipsticks, and other lip care products.

3. Usage Citral:

When using citral in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Citral can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing citral and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Gomes-Carneiro, M. R., Dias, D. M., Paumgartten, F. J., & Azevedo, R. B. (2005). Subchronic toxicity of citral in rats. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(9), 1361-1367.

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2004). Cytotoxicity of citral and limonene in a human melanoma cell line. Phytomedicine, 11(1), 34-40.

- Re, R., Pellegrini, N., Proteggente, A., Pannala, A., Yang, M., & Rice-Evans, C. (1999). Antioxidant activity applying an improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 26(9-10), 1231-1237.

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Eugenol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Denaturant , Tonic

1. Definition Eugenol:

Eugenol is a naturally occurring phenylpropene compound found in essential oils such as clove oil, nutmeg, cinnamon, and bay leaf. It is known for its pleasant aroma and is commonly used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Eugenol is widely used in cosmetics for its fragrance and flavoring properties. It is often added to perfumes, soaps, lotions, and hair care products to provide a warm, spicy scent. Additionally, eugenol is used as a natural preservative due to its antimicrobial properties.

3. Usage Eugenol:

When using cosmetics containing eugenol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Eugenol has been identified as a contact allergen, so individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may experience adverse reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with eugenol to determine if any sensitivities exist. Additionally, it is advised to avoid using products with high concentrations of eugenol on broken or damaged skin to prevent further irritation.

4. References:

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2006). Cytotoxicity of clove (Syzygium aromaticum) oil and its major components to human skin cells. Cell Proliferation, 39(4), 241-248.

- Jirovetz, L., Buchbauer, G., Shafi, M. P., & Kaniampady, M. M. (2006). Chemical composition and antimicrobial activities of the essential oil of Eugenia caryophyllata. International Journal of Aromatherapy, 16(1), 41-47.

- Valente, J., Zuzarte, M., Gonçalves, M. J., Lopes, M. C., Cavaleiro, C., Salgueiro, L., & Cruz, M. T. (2013). Antifungal, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Oenanthe crocata L. essential oil. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 62, 349-354.