Full ingredients list SKINCITY skincare First Concentrate ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	B	Sodium Pca (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1		Dimethyl Isosorbide (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
4	A	Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Acne fighting Brightening
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
2		Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent)	Anti Aging Good for dry skin
1		Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Bisabolol	Promotes Wound Healing Brightening
		Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Sorbitol (Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Antioxidant)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Beta Sitosterol (Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising)
1		Pantolactone (Humectant)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1		Ubiquinone (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
2	B	Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive)	Good for sensitive skin Good for dry skin
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1		Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (Antioxidant)
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent)
1		Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract (Humectant, Astringent, Soothing)
1	A	Squalene (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Sodium Pca

Other name: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil is a natural oil extracted from the kernels of oats. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil is known for its moisturizing and soothing properties, making it a beneficial ingredient for dry, sensitive, and irritated skin. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve skin barrier function. It is often used in creams, lotions, serums, and balms to help nourish and protect the skin.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil can be used in various skincare formulations, including facial moisturizers, body lotions, lip balms, and hair care products. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into existing skincare products. It is generally safe for all skin types but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on the entire face or body to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Hwang E, Lee TH, Park SY, et al. Oat (Avena sativa L.) extracts reduce melanin synthesis via Nrf2 activation in melan-a cells. Int J Mol Sci. 2015;16(10):18384-18395. doi:10.3390/ijms160818384

- Sur R, Nigam A, Grote D, Liebel F, Southall MD. Avenanthramides, polyphenols from oats, exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-itch activity. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008;300(10):569-574. doi:10.1007/s00403-008-0866-8

- Reynertson KA, Garay M, Nebus J, Chon S, Kaur S, Mahmood K, Kizoulis M, Southall MD. Anti-inflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) contribute to the effectiveness of oats in treatment of itch associated with dry, irritated skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2015;14(1):43-48.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Other name: Arlasolve DMI

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Isosorbide:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is a high purity solvent and carrier that is derived from natural corn sugar. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is often used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and penetration enhancer. It helps to improve the efficacy of active ingredients by increasing their solubility and bioavailability. This ingredient is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and other skincare products where deep penetration into the skin is desired.

3. Usage Dimethyl Isosorbide:

When using products containing Dimethyl Isosorbide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to Dimethyl Isosorbide, so it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Dragicevic N, Maibach HI. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Modification of the Stratum Corneum. CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2016.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-6; discussion 836.

- Muizzuddin N, Hellemans L, Van Overloop L, Corstjens H, Declercq L, Maes D. Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2010;59(2):123-8.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the Glycyrrhiza Uralensis plant. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening properties.

2. Use:

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract is often included in skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is also known for its skin-brightening effects, helping to even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other skincare ingredients for added benefits. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing this extract, as some individuals may be sensitive to it.

4. References:

- Armanini D, Fiore C, Mattarello MJ, Bielenberg J, Palermo M. History of the endocrine effects of licorice. Exp Clin Endocrinol Diabetes. 2002;110(6):257-261. doi:10.1055/s-2002-34587

- Asl MN, Hosseinzadeh H. Review of pharmacological effects of Glycyrrhiza sp. and its bioactive compounds. Phytother Res. 2008;22(6):709-724. doi:10.1002/ptr.2362

- Hattori M, Sakamoto T, Kobashi K, Namba T. Metabolism of glycyrrhizin by human intestinal flora. II. Isolation and characterization of human intestinal bacteria capable of metabolizing glycyrrhizin and related compounds. Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo). 1985;33(1):210-217. doi:10.1248/cpb.33.210

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Alcohol

Other name: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol:

Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.

2. Use:

Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.

3. Usage Alcohol:

While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour is a finely ground powder made from the kernels of the oat plant. It is rich in nutrients such as proteins, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and moisturizing properties. It is known to help calm irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and improve skin barrier function. Additionally, it can help to exfoliate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour can be found in a variety of skincare products, including cleansers, masks, scrubs, and lotions. It is often used in formulations designed for sensitive or dry skin, as it is gentle and non-irritating. To use products containing Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, simply follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

4. References:

- Bae, J. Y., & Park, S. N. (2012). Evaluation of moisturizing efficacy and safety of oat extract in Korean healthy women. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 11(1), 39-45.

- Sur, R., & Nigam, A. (2011). Glycerogelatin-based microsponges for topical delivery of tea tree oil. Journal of Microencapsulation, 28(6), 560-568.

- Reynertson, K. A., Garay, M., Nebus, J., Chon, S., Kaur, S., Mahmood, K., ... & Southall, M. D. (2015). Anti-inflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) contribute to the effectiveness of oats in treatment of itch associated with dry, irritated skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 14(1), 43-48.

Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract:

Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, also known as Bistort Root Extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the Polygonum Bistorta plant. This plant is native to Europe and Asia and has been traditionally used in herbal medicine for its astringent and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and antioxidant properties. It is known to help improve the appearance of skin by reducing redness, inflammation, and signs of aging. This extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to promote a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, it is important to patch test the product first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for the specific product being used. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or experience any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Kim, Y. J., Kim, E. H., Hwang, J. K., & Lee, H. J. (2006). Marrying traditional knowledge and modern science in natural cosmetic materials. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 106(2), 110-118.

- Lee, S. J., Umano, K., Shibamoto, T., & Lee, K. G. (2005). Identification of volatile components in Polygonum bistorta L. roots using steam distillation and solid-phase microextraction. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 53(11), 4346-4349.

- Choi, H. J., Eom, S. H., Kim, C. S., & Lee, N. H. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effects of Polygonum bistorta in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 42(3), 1581-1588.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is a natural oil derived from soybeans through a process of extraction. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and protect against environmental stressors. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, cleansers, hair masks, and conditioners. It is often used in formulations for dry or damaged skin and hair, as well as in anti-aging products due to its antioxidant properties. It is typically applied topically to the skin or hair, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or haircare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. W., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Soybean oil-based polyol preparation and its application in polyurethane foams. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 64, 25-32.

- Reiter, M., Walfisz, A., & Wertz, J. (2016). Antioxidant potential of soybean oil enriched with phospholipids. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 265-273.

- De Oliveira, D. M., Silva, R. C., & De Oliveira, L. E. (2015). Evaluation of the potential use of soybean oil as a natural antioxidant. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 52(5), 2808-2816.

Bisabolol

Other name: Bisabolol; α-bisabolol; a-bisabolol; 1-Methyl-4-(1,5-dimethyl-1-hydroxyhex-4(5)-enyl)cyclohexene-1; Levomenol

Function:

1. Definition Bisabolol:

Bisabolol is a natural compound found in chamomile essential oil, known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Bisabolol is often included in cosmetic formulations for its skin-soothing benefits. It helps to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, bisabolol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Bisabolol:

Bisabolol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-1% in formulations. When using products containing bisabolol, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for all skin types, but if irritation occurs, discontinue use.

4. References:

- Sharifi-Rad, J., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: A monoterpenoid with therapeutic potential. BioMed Research International, 2018.

- Costa, R., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound for potential treatment of age-related macular degeneration. European Journal of Pharmacology, 839, 134-141.

- Zeng, W., et al. (2020). Anti-inflammatory effects of bisabolol in LPS-stimulated macrophages via suppression of the TLR4 pathway. Molecular Medicine Reports, 21(2), 957-964.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, also known as HPR, is a retinoid derivative that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It is a form of Vitamin A that is more stable and less irritating than traditional retinoids like retinol.

2. Use:

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is used in cosmetics and skincare products to promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often found in serums, creams, and oils targeted towards anti-aging and improving overall skin health.

3. Usage Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:

When using products containing Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, it is important to start with a lower concentration to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Begin by using the product a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin tolerates it. It is also crucial to use sunscreen daily when using HPR, as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity and make the skin more prone to sun damage.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308–319.

- Sorg, O., & Saurat, J. H. (2010). Topical retinoids in skin aging: a focused update with reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency. Dermatology, 221(1), 74–78.

Sorbitol

Other name: D-Glucitol

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer

1. Definition Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and thickening agent. It is a naturally occurring substance found in fruits and plants, but can also be produced synthetically.

2. Use:

Sorbitol is used in cosmetics to help attract moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Sorbitol also has emollient properties, which help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of up to 10% in skincare products. However, some individuals may be sensitive to sorbitol and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing sorbitol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5780, Sorbitol. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sorbitol

- Cosmetics Info. Sorbitol. https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitol

- Personal Care Council. Sorbitol. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sorbitol

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable derivative of Vitamin C, commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.

2. Use:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is often included in cosmetic formulations to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is also known for its ability to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

When using skincare products containing Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of product is applied to clean, dry skin in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product recommendations. It is important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Vitamin C derivatives to protect the skin from potential sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Telang, P. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Beta Sitosterol

Function: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising

1. Definition Beta Sitosterol:

Beta Sitosterol is a plant sterol that is commonly found in various fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. It is often used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Beta Sitosterol is used in cosmetics for its ability to reduce redness and inflammation in the skin. It is also known for its moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for dry and sensitive skin.

3. Usage Beta Sitosterol:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Sitosterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advised to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Beta Sitosterol into your skincare routine, especially if you have any existing skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Marikar, Y. M. F., & Hettiarachchi, A. (2019). Plant Sterols in Cosmetics: A Review. Cosmetics, 6(1), 15.

- Bouic, P. J., Clark, A., & Lamprecht, J. (1999). The effects of B-sitosterol (BSS) and B-sitosterol glucoside (BSSG) mixture on selected immune parameters of marathon runners: inhibition of post marathon immune suppression and inflammation. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 20(4), 258-262.

- Bouic, P. J. (2001). The role of B-sitosterol and B-sitosterol glucoside in immune function. S Afr J Sci, 97, 285-288.

Pantolactone

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Pantolactone:

Pantolactone is a derivative of pantothenic acid, also known as vitamin B5. It is a water-soluble compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Pantolactone is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions for its ability to hydrate the skin and improve its overall texture. It is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for dry or dehydrated skin.

3. Usage Pantolactone:

Pantolactone is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing pantolactone to their face or body. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer to avoid any potential irritation or adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Ubiquinone

Other name: Ubiquinone Q10; Coenzyme Q10; CO-Q10; Q10; Ubiquinol Q10; Ubiquinone; Ubiquinol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ubiquinone:

Ubiquinone, also known as Coenzyme Q10, is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the body. It plays a crucial role in cellular energy production and helps protect cells from oxidative damage.

2. Use:

Ubiquinone is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. This can result in firmer, smoother, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Ubiquinone:

Ubiquinone is typically found in anti-aging creams, serums, and lotions. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To maximize its benefits, it is recommended to apply ubiquinone products to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.

Precautions: While ubiquinone is generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using ubiquinone products on the face or body. Additionally, pregnant or breastfeeding women should consult with a healthcare professional before incorporating ubiquinone into their skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Katsiki, N., & Banach, M. (2018). Coenzyme Q10 and cardiovascular risk. A review. Journal of the American College of Cardiology, 71(16), 1696-1708.

- Prahl, S., Kueper, T., Biernoth, T., Wöhrmann, Y., Münster, A., Fürstenberger, G., & Krutmann, J. (2006). Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10 for anti aging skin care. BioFactors, 32(1-4), 245-255.

- Blatt, T., Littarru, G. P., & Biochemistry, C. (1995). Biochemical rationale and experimental data on the antiaging properties of CoQ 10 at skin level. Biofactors, 6(3), 229-234.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive

1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.

4. References:

- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.

- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.

- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract:

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, also known as Japanese Knotweed extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the Polygonum cuspidatum plant. It is rich in antioxidants, particularly resveratrol, which has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote a more youthful complexion. It is often found in anti-aging serums, moisturizers, and treatments targeting skin concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone.

3. Usage Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract:

When using products containing Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Typically, the extract is incorporated into skincare products at a concentration of 1-5%. It is generally safe for most skin types, but as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before regular use to check for any potential sensitivities or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Shin, J. W., Wang, J. H., Kang, J. K., Son, C. G., & Kim, H. J. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effect of Polygonum cuspidatum in patients with knee osteoarthritis. The American Journal of Chinese Medicine, 47(7), 1557-1570.

- Park, H. J., Jung, H. J., Kwon, H. J., Kim, K. A., Lim, S. S., & Kwak, J. H. (2012). Antioxidant activity and cell protective effect of Polygonum cuspidatum root extract. Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology, 44(5), 559-564.

- Lee, H. J., Lee, H. J., Lim, E. J., & Lee, E. O. (2017). Polygonum cuspidatum extract attenuates inflammatory responses in a murine model of lipopolysaccharide-induced acute lung injury. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 206, 124-130.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Other name: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.

- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Function: Humectant, Astringent, Soothing

1. Definition Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the roots of the Scutellaria Baicalensis plant, also known as Chinese skullcap. This extract is rich in flavonoids, particularly baicalin and baicalein, which are known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its various benefits. It is known to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. This extract is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help soothe irritation and calm redness.

3. Usage Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects of Scutellaria baicalensis root extract in human keratinocytes. Biomed Res Int. 2019; 2019: 5390806.

- Lin, L. T., Liu, L. T., Chiang, L. C., Lin, C. C., In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytother Res. 2002; 16(5): 440-444.

- Li, B. Q., Fu, T., Dongyan, Y., Mikovits, J. A., Ruscetti, F. W., Wang, J. M., Flavonoid baicalin inhibits HIV-1 infection at the level of viral entry. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2000; 276(2): 534-538.

Squalene

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting

1. Definition Squalene:

Squalene is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in plants, animals, and humans. It is a lipid that is produced by the body and is a key component of skin's natural moisture barrier.

2. Use:

Squalene is widely used in the cosmetic industry for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate and protect the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple. Squalene is often used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and face oils.

3. Usage Squalene:

When using products containing squalene, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, squalene is sensitive to oxidation, so it is best to store products containing squalene in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Kim, S. K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 223-233.

- Sime, S., Reeve, V. E., & Protection, A. (2018). Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression and carcinogenesis induced by UV radiation in mice by topical Pycnogenol®. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences, 17(1), 54-61.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.