Skinn Fruit Fusion Pore Magnet Mask

Skinn

INGREDIENTS

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Montmorillonite

Kaolin

Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract

Passiflora Incarnata (Passionfruit) Fruit Extract

Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract

Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract

Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract

Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract

Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate

Tapioca Starch

Salicylic Acid

Citric Acid

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Propylene Glycol

Carrageenan

Xanthan Gum

Water

Mica

Isopentyldiol

Phragmites Communis Extract

Poria Cocos Extract

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Disodium Edta

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Caprylyl Glycol

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Quick product notes

(Click on icon for more information)

Quick product notes serve as a convenient method to determine if a product aligns with the preferences of skincare enthusiasts by being free from commonly avoided ingredients. These preferences arise due to various factors, including personal experiences, sensitivities, health considerations, and more.

Paraben free

Sulfate free

Alcohol free

Silicone free

Fungal Acne Safe

EU Allergent Free

Key Ingredients

Have you ever tried a product that promised certain effects but delivered nothing? It might have lacked key ingredients necessary for those promised results. Despite marketing claims, if a product lacks beneficial components, its efficacy is questionable.

We help you identify key ingredients known for effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV protection, and anti-aging, assisting you in making smarter skincare choices. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of key ingredients can vary; while some are well-proven, others have mixed research behind them.

Anti Aging from (4) Ingredient:

Glycolic Acid Mandelic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid

Acne fighting from (1) Ingredient:

Salicylic Acid

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click the arrows next to Skin Type! Green = Good & Red = Bad

Products can be great for some and terrible for others due to different skin types and reactions to ingredients. We've identified ingredients suitable for dry, oily, and sensitive skin types.

Dry skin

Propylene Glycol

Low Risk

Butylene Glycol

Low Risk

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

Low Risk

Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract

Low Risk

Glycerin

Low Risk

Oily Skin

Glycolic Acid

Low Risk

Salicylic Acid

Low Risk

Sensitive skin

Glycolic Acid

High Risk

Lactic Acid

High Risk

Salicylic Acid

High Risk

Citric Acid

High Risk

Oil skin

None

Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Health Ratings)

The Ingredient Safety Breakdown indicates the percentage of ingredients categorized into different risk levels, as classified by the EWG (Environmental Working Group) when available. With numerous cosmetic ingredients in existence, the EWG is one of the few organizations globally that assigns ratings to many commonly used ingredients, making it a valuable reference point.

Low risk

Moderate risk

High risk

Unknown

80%

20%

INGREDIENT LIST

(Display the first 5 ingredients from a list of 41 ingredient)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1 3		Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice
1	A	Polyvinyl Alcohol (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Film Forming)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1		Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract
1		Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Slip Modifier)
1	A	Montmorillonite (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising, Viscosityincreasing Agent - Aqueous)
1	A	Kaolin (Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier)
1		Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Astringent)
1		Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Exclusive)
1		Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract (Masking, Fragrance, Astringent, Tonic)
1		Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Passiflora Incarnata (Passionfruit) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
1		Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Astringent)
1		Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1 4	B	Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Preservative)
1		Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)	Good for dry skin
1		Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Astringent)
1		Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate (Surfactant, Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Gel Forming, Viscosity Increasing Agent - Aqueous)
1	A	Tapioca Starch (Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1 3	B	Salicylic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover)	Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin Acne fighting
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1 4	B	Glycolic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1		Mandelic Acid (Antimicrobial, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging
3	B	Propylene Glycol (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous)	Good for dry skin
1		Carrageenan
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1		Water (Solvent)
2		Mica (Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying)
1		Isopentyldiol (Solvent)
1		Phragmites Communis Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Poria Cocos Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin
1		Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
3	A	Chlorphenesin (Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)

INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Skinn Fruit Fusion Pore Magnet Mask

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice

Function:

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice is a natural extract derived from the succulent leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, calming, and healing properties. It is often included in products such as moisturizers, lotions, sunscreens, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied directly to the skin or used as an ingredient in skincare products. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and irritated skin. When using products containing Aloe Vera, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Aloe Vera into your skincare routine, especially if you have any skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 5(1), 21–26.

- Choi, S., Chung, M. H., & Aeschbach, R. (2001). Antioxidant activity of Aloe vera in vitro study. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50(16), 3718–3722.

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Other name: PVA; PVAL; Polyvinyl Alcohol

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Film Forming

1. Definition Polyvinyl Alcohol:

Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA) is a synthetic polymer that is water-soluble and biodegradable. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, emulsifier, and thickener.

2. Use:

Polyvinyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to create a smooth and shiny film on the skin, hair, or nails. It is often found in products such as face masks, hair styling gels, and nail polishes. PVA helps to improve the texture and appearance of these products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall effectiveness.

3. Usage Polyvinyl Alcohol:

When using cosmetics containing Polyvinyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is also important to avoid ingesting products containing PVA and to keep them out of reach of children.

4. References:

- Zhang, C., Zhang, S., & Zhang, L. (2014). Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)-based hydrogels for tissue engineering applications. European Polymer Journal, 63, 134-151.

- Kim, J. E., Lee, Y. M., & Park, Y. H. (2015). Polyvinyl alcohol/chitosan-based hydrogels for tissue engineering. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 21, 1177-1181.

- Rwei, S. P., Chen, J. W., & Kuo, C. Y. (2017). Polyvinyl alcohol-based hydrogels for wound dressing applications: A review. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 18(2), 285.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract

Function:

1. Definition Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract:

Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the red clover plant. It is known for its soothing and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Clover flower extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and hydrate the skin. It is often included in products designed to reduce redness and inflammation, making it a great choice for those with sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract:

Clover flower extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations, as it is a potent ingredient that can provide noticeable benefits even in small amounts. When using products containing clover flower extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Barel, A., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Nema, N. K. (2013). Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics. CRC Press.

- Ma, L., & Li, X. (2015). Natural Products in Cosmetics. Royal Society of Chemistry.

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract:

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the Moringa tree, also known as the "Miracle Tree." This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular choice in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its numerous benefits for the skin and hair. It has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it soft and supple. The extract also has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, making it effective in reducing redness, inflammation, and signs of aging such as wrinkles and fine lines. In haircare products, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract can help to strengthen and nourish the hair, promoting healthier and more lustrous locks.

3. Usage Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract:

When using products containing Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. As with any skincare or haircare product, it is best to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse effects occur.

4. References:

- Jaiswal, D., Rai, P. K., Kumar, A., Mehta, S., Watal, G. (2009). Effect of Moringa oleifera Lam. leaves aqueous extract therapy on hyperglycemic rats. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 123(3), 392-396.

- Anwar, F., Latif, S., Ashraf, M., Gilani, A. H. (2007). Moringa oleifera: a food plant with multiple medicinal uses. Phytotherapy Research, 21(1), 17-25.

- Siddhuraju, P., Becker, K. (2003). Antioxidant properties of various solvent extracts of total phenolic constituents from three different agroclimatic origins of drumstick tree (Moringa oleifera Lam.) leaves. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 51(8), 2144-2155.

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Other name: VEEGUM

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Magnesium Aluminum Silicate:

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate is a naturally occurring mineral derived from refined and purified clay. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and opacifying agent.

2. Use:

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate is primarily used in cosmetic formulations to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, while also providing a matte finish. Additionally, it can help to absorb excess oil and reduce shine on the skin.

3. Usage Magnesium Aluminum Silicate:

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate should be used in cosmetics according to the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially for those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to avoid inhaling the powder form of Magnesium Aluminum Silicate and to wash hands thoroughly after handling.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Magnesium Aluminum Silicate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/magnesium-aluminum-silicate

- Personal Care Council. (2019). International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. Washington, DC: Personal Care Products Council.

- Loretz, L., Api, A. M., Babcock, L., Barraj, L., Burdick, J., Cater, K. C., ... & Wilcox, D. K. (2008). Exposure data for cosmetic products: facial cleanser, hair conditioner, and eye shadow. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 46(5), 1516-1524.

Montmorillonite

Other name: Smectite; Green French clay

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising, Viscosityincreasing Agent - Aqueous

1. Definition Montmorillonite:

Montmorillonite is a natural clay mineral that is commonly used in cosmetics for its absorbent and purifying properties. It is known for its ability to draw out impurities, toxins, and excess oil from the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Montmorillonite is used in cosmetics for a variety of purposes, including as a facial mask to help cleanse and detoxify the skin, as a spot treatment for blemishes, and as a gentle exfoliant to remove dead skin cells. It is also used in hair care products to help absorb excess oil and impurities from the scalp.

3. Usage Montmorillonite:

When using cosmetics containing Montmorillonite, it is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging carefully. It is typically recommended to apply a thin layer of the product to clean, dry skin and leave it on for a specified amount of time before rinsing off with warm water. It is important to avoid getting the product in the eyes or mouth, and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Wang, S., Chen, Y., & Wang, Y. (2019). Montmorillonite: An introduction to properties and utilization. Applied Clay Science, 168, 1-13.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Velde, B., Meunier, A., & Hillier, S. (2018). The origin of clay minerals in soils and weathered rocks. Springer Science & Business Media.

Kaolin

Other name: Kaolinite; China clay; Aluminum Silica; White Clay; Kaolin Clay

Function: Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Kaolin:

Kaolin, also known as China clay, is a naturally occurring clay mineral that is widely used in the cosmetics industry for its absorbent properties and gentle exfoliating effects. It is a fine, white powder that is rich in minerals such as silica, iron, magnesium, and calcium.

2. Use:

Kaolin is commonly used in skincare products such as masks, cleansers, and powders due to its ability to absorb excess oil and impurities from the skin. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types. Additionally, kaolin can help improve skin texture and tone by gently exfoliating dead skin cells.

3. Usage Kaolin:

Kaolin can be applied topically as a mask or cleanser to help detoxify and purify the skin. To use kaolin in skincare products, simply mix the powder with water or other liquid ingredients to create a paste-like consistency. Apply the mixture to clean, dry skin and leave it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. It is important to avoid getting kaolin powder into the eyes or inhaling it as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2012). Formulating with kaolin. Personal Care Magazine, 9(3), 25-28.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Lin, Y. C., & Lin, J. H. (2008). Kaolin and its industrial uses. Journal of the Chinese Ceramic Society, 36(6), 805-811.

Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Astringent

1. Definition Lycium Barbarum (Matrimony Vine) Fruit Extract:

Lycium Barbarum (Matrimony Vine) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the Lycium Barbarum plant, commonly known as Goji Berry. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Lycium Barbarum (Matrimony Vine) Fruit Extract:

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract regularly as part of a skincare routine for best results.

4. References:

- Zhang M, Chen H, Huang J, Li Z, Zhu C, Zhang S, Wang Z. Protective effects of Lycium barbarum polysaccharide on 6-OHDA-induced apoptosis in PC12 cells through the ROS-NO pathway. Molecules. 2011;16(5):3492-3508. doi:10.3390/molecules16053492

- Amagase H, Farnsworth NR. A review of botanical characteristics, phytochemistry, clinical relevance in efficacy and safety of Lycium barbarum fruit (Goji). Food Res Int. 2011;44(7):1702-1717. doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2011.04.029

- Wu D, Zhang X, Liu J, et al. Protective effects of Lycium barbarum polysaccharide on 2,2',4,4'-tetrabromodiphenyl ether-induced neurotoxicity in primary cultured rat hippocampal neurons. Food Chem Toxicol. 2013;59:439-445. doi:10.1016/j.fct.2013.06.022

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Exclusive

1. Definition Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from apples. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and brightening properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To use, apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's instructions. It is important to patch test the product first to ensure compatibility with your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Son, D. J., Lee, H., Yoo, H. S., Song, S., . . . Hong, J. T. (2013). Inhibitory effect of ursolic acid purified from Origanum majorana L. on the acetylcholinesterase. Molecules, 18(7), 8409-8416.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. H., Song, G. G., & Park, J. J. (2016). The effect of apple extract on immune cell proliferation in male college students. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 45(5), 731-736.

- Kim, M. J., Lee, H. J., & Kim, J. K. (2018). Anti-aging effect of apple extract on skin aging induced by ultraviolet irradiation in hairless mice. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 24(3), 513-522.

Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract

Other name: Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract; Blackberry Fruit Extract

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract:

Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the blackberry plant. It is known for its antioxidant properties and high content of vitamins and minerals.

2. Use:

Blackberry fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin-brightening properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, improve skin tone and texture, and promote a more youthful appearance.

3. Usage Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract:

Blackberry fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients for added benefits. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing blackberry fruit extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kaur, R., Thakur, R., & Thakur, R. (2017). Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) juice and its anthocyanin and phenolic constituents suppress the activation of inflammatory mediators in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food & Function, 8(10), 3717-3727.

- Li, J., Li, Q., Feng, T., Li, K., Zhao, R., & Zhao, M. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of blackberry extract on lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 and HaCaT cells. Food & Function, 10(8), 4746-4753.

- Bagchi, D., Bagchi, M., Stohs, S. J., Das, D. K., Ray, S. D., Kuszynski, C. A., ... & Pruess, H. G. (2000). Free radicals and grape seed proanthocyanidin extract: importance in human health and disease prevention. Toxicology, 148(2-3), 187-197.

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract:

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the fruit of the apricot tree. It is known for its high content of vitamins, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and revitalizing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and protect against environmental damage. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, masks, and other skincare products.

3. Usage Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before using it on their face. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Tundis, R., & Loizzo, M. R. (2016). Nutritional and health benefits of apricots (Prunus armeniaca L.): A review. Food Chemistry, 210, 174-184.

- Hwang, E., Park, S. Y., & Lee, H. J. (2016). Lee, H. J. Apricot and its phytochemicals in human health: A review. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 56(10), 1568-1578.

- Kaur, C., & Kapoor, H. C. (2002). Antioxidants in fruits and vegetables—the millennium’s health. International Journal of Food Science & Technology, 36(7), 703-725.

Passiflora Incarnata (Passionfruit) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

1. Definition Passiflora Incarnata (Maypops) Fruit Extract:

Passiflora Incarnata (Maypops) Fruit Extract is derived from the fruits of the Passiflora Incarnata plant, commonly known as Maypops. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that can benefit the skin.

2. Use:

Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and calming properties. It is known to help reduce inflammation, redness, and irritation on the skin. Additionally, it is believed to have anti-aging benefits, helping to improve the overall appearance and health of the skin.

3. Usage Passiflora Incarnata (Maypops) Fruit Extract:

Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to patch test products containing Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon JY, Kwon HH, Min SU, Thiboutot DM, Suh DH. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate improves acne in humans by modulating intracellular molecular targets and inhibiting P. acnes. J Invest Dermatol. 2013 Oct;133(10):429-40. doi: 10.1038/jid.2012.425. Epub 2013 Jan 17. PMID: 23328751.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70. doi: 10.3390/ijms19010070. PMID: 29280987; PMCID: PMC5796020.

- Costa R, Rodrigues M, Guardão L, Rocha J, Sepodes B, Lopes R, Duarte D, Sanches Silva A, Santos de Almeida T. Evaluation of the topical anti-inflammatory activity of ginger dry extracts. J Ethnopharmacol. 2018 Jan 30;211:326-334. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2017.09.013. Epub 2017 Sep 13. PMID: 28917645.

Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Astringent

1. Definition Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract:

Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the guava fruit, known for its high content of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. This extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-nourishing and rejuvenating properties.

2. Use:

Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate, brighten, and protect the skin. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks to help improve the overall appearance and health of the skin. The extract is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and fighting off acne-causing bacteria.

3. Usage Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Generally, the extract can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into skincare products as directed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the extract to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or specific skin conditions should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products containing this extract into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Serafini, M., et al. (2016). Antioxidant activity of guava (Psidium guajava L.) varieties on human low-density lipoprotein oxidation. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 54(3), 923-929.

- Chaturvedi, A. P., et al. (2013). Antioxidant and antibacterial activities of aqueous extract of guava leaves. Journal of Advanced Pharmaceutical Technology & Research, 4(3), 134-140.

- Ojeda, M., et al. (2018). Psidium guajava L. (guava) leaf extract: An effective treatment for skin wounds. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 214, 110-118.

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract:

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the mango fruit. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Mango fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and revitalizing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Mango extract is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract:

Mango fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in small concentrations to enhance the overall effectiveness of the product. To use mango extract, apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any product containing mango extract to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- S. L. J. F. M. (2016). Mango (Mangifera indica L.) by-products and their valuable components: a review. Food Chemistry, 183, 173-180.

- Kaur, C., & Kapoor, H. C. (2002). Antioxidants in fruits and vegetables - the millennium's health. International Journal of Food Science & Technology, 36(7), 703-725.

- Barreto, J. C., Trevisan, M. T. S., Hull, W. E., Erben, G., de Brito, E. S., & Pfundstein, B. (2008). Characterization and quantitation of polyphenolic compounds in bark, kernel, leaves, and peel of mango (Mangifera indica L.). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 56(14), 5599-5610.

Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Preservative

1. Definition Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the grapefruit tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that can provide numerous benefits to the skin.

2. Use:

Grapefruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent and brightening properties. It helps to tighten and tone the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and promote a more even complexion. Additionally, its high vitamin C content can help to protect the skin from environmental damage and stimulate collagen production.

3. Usage Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract:

Grapefruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is typically safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility. As with any skincare ingredient, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use and dosage to avoid any potential irritation or adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., Lee, Y. M., Song, Y. J., & Park, C. S. (2013). Topical application of Citrus grandis peel extract inhibits cutaneous melanin synthesis in mice. Phytotherapy Research, 27(2), 237-241.

- Wu, J., & Lin, L. (2008). Ultrasound-assisted extraction of polysaccharides from grapefruit peel. Food Chemistry, 108(3), 677-684.

- Choi, H. S., Kim, J. W., Cha, Y. N., Kim, C. (2006). Citrus grandis peel extract for skin aging: In vitro and in vivo study. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 126(6), 1641-1649.

Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

1. Definition Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract:

Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the peach tree. It is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Peach fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peach extract also has soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract:

Peach fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing peach extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., Kim, H. E., Hwang, J. K., & Lee, N. H. (2011). The effects of peach and apricot extracts on UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine, 27(1), 32-39.

- Park, K. M., You, J. S., Lee, H. Y., Baek, E. J., Lee, J. S., & Hwang, J. K. (2013). Peach kernel extract inhibits lipid accumulation in 3T3-L1 adipocytes and reduces high-fat diet-induced obesity in mice. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 53, 59-67.

Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Astringent

1. Definition Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract:

Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the wild strawberry plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging, brightening, and moisturizing properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, improve skin tone and texture, and promote a youthful glow.

3. Usage Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract:

Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is suitable for all skin types. To use, apply the product containing the extract to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any allergic reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Park, S. Y., Kim, D. S., Kang, S. I., & Kim, J. M. (2015). Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa) Extract Ameliorates Ethanol-induced Gastric Lesions in Rats by Activation of Antioxidant Enzymes and Attenuation of MDA Increase. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2015.

- Sultana, S., Sheikh, A., Qamar, A., & Arshad, M. (2012). Phytochemical screening and evaluation of antioxidant potential of Fragaria vesca. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(8), 2621-2626.

- Bae, J. Y., Lim, S. S., Kim, S. J., Choi, J. S., Park, J., Ju, S. M., ... & Kang, I. J. (2012). Fragaria ananassa crude extract ameliorates oxidative stress in HepG2 cells and offers hepatoprotection in mice by regulating the MAPK and Nrf2 pathways. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 50(10), 3184-3191.

Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract

Other name: Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract; Raspberry Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract:

Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the raspberry fruit. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Raspberry fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. Additionally, raspberry extract is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent ingredient for hydrating and revitalizing the skin.

3. Usage Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract:

Raspberry fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, masks, and lotions. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing raspberry extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with raspberry extract regularly to see the full benefits for the skin.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Afaq, F., & Katiyar, S. K. (2003). Polyphenols: skin photoprotection and inhibition of photocarcinogenesis. Mini reviews in medicinal chemistry, 3(4), 303-308.

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143.

Tapioca Starch

Function: Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Tapioca Starch:

Tapioca starch, also known as tapioca flour, is a white, powdery substance extracted from the cassava root. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in various food products and is also utilized in the cosmetic industry for its absorbent properties.

2. Use:

Tapioca starch is often used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic thickeners and absorbents. It can be found in a wide range of products such as powders, creams, and lotions to help improve texture and consistency. Tapioca starch is known for its ability to absorb excess oil and moisture, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for oily or combination skin types.

3. Usage Tapioca Starch:

When using tapioca starch in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing tapioca starch to a larger area. Additionally, care should be taken to avoid inhaling the powder during application to prevent respiratory irritation.

4. References:

- Lee, S., & Lee, D. (2017). Tapioca starch as a natural alternative in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 185-192.

- Silva, M. F., & Costa, D. (2019). Tapioca starch: Properties and applications in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 123-129.

- Chen, Y., & Wang, H. (2020). The role of tapioca starch in cosmetic formulations. Cosmetic Technology, 18(4), 45-50.

Salicylic Acid

Other name: Salicylates; 2-hydroxybenzoic; Salicylic Acid; Beta Hydroxy Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Denaturant , Preservative, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Antidandruff Agent, Antiacne Agent, Keratolytic, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover

1. Definition Salicylic Acid:

Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. It works by penetrating the pores and breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts.

2. Use:

Salicylic Acid is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, spot treatments, and masks. It is effective in treating acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and other skin conditions caused by clogged pores. Salicylic Acid can also help to reduce inflammation and redness associated with acne, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards oily and acne-prone skin types.

3. Usage Salicylic Acid:

When using products containing Salicylic Acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid potential irritation or drying out of the skin. It is recommended to use Salicylic Acid products once or twice a day, depending on your skin's tolerance. It is also important to follow up with a moisturizer and use sunscreen during the day, as Salicylic Acid can increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765

- Chien, A. L., Qi, J., Rainer, B., & Sachs, D. L. (2018). Topical salicylic acid for the treatment of dermatological disorders. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 17(6), 725–730. https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961618P0725X/1

See more: Salicylic Acid

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Glycolic Acid

Other name: Hydroxyacetic acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.

3. Usage Glycolic Acid:

When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.

See more: Unlocking the Power of Glycolic Acid in Skincare!!!

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Mandelic Acid

Function: Antimicrobial, Exfoliant

1. Definition Mandelic Acid:

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. It is known for its exfoliating properties and is commonly used in skincare products to improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.

2. Use:

Mandelic acid is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a chemical exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover. It is also effective in treating acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. Additionally, mandelic acid has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Mandelic Acid:

When using skincare products containing mandelic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is recommended to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face. Mandelic acid should be used in the evening, followed by sunscreen during the day, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays. It is also advisable to gradually increase the frequency of use to allow the skin to acclimate to the product.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 6, 281–288.

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., & Sueki, H. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187–195.

Propylene Glycol

Other name: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

Carrageenan

Other name: Carrageenins; Carrageenans; Chondrus Crispus; Irish Moss; Carrageenan Gum; Carrageen moss

Function:

1. Definition Carrageenan:

Carrageenan is a natural ingredient derived from red seaweed, specifically from the Chondrus crispus species. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Carrageenan is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as lotions, creams, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, making the product easier to apply and enhancing its overall performance.

3. Usage Carrageenan:

Carrageenan is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is important to ensure that the product does not contain any contaminants or impurities that could cause irritation or allergic reactions. Individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with carrageenan to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Cox, S., Abu-Ghannam, N., & Gupta, S. (2010). An assessment of the potential of polysaccharide hydrocolloids for cosmetic applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32(5), 369-387.

- Pereira, L., Amado, A. M., Critchley, A. T., & van de Velde, F. (2009). Polysaccharides from seaweeds. In D. A. Thomas (Ed.), Seaweed in health and disease prevention (pp. 203-225). Academic Press.

- Ngo, D. H., Kim, S. K. (2013). Sulfated polysaccharides as bioactive agents from marine algae. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 62, 70-75.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Mica

Other name: CI 77019; Muscovite

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Opacifying

1. Definition Mica:

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral that is used in cosmetics for its shimmering and light-reflecting properties. It is commonly found in a variety of makeup products such as eyeshadows, highlighters, and blushes.

2. Use:

Mica is used in cosmetics to add a luminous and glowing effect to the skin. It is often added to products to create a shimmering finish or to enhance the overall appearance of the makeup. Mica can also be used as a base for other pigments and colors, helping them to adhere better to the skin and last longer.

3. Usage Mica:

When using products containing mica, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the mineral. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when using products that contain mica. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, mica particles are very fine and can become airborne during application, so it is important to take precautions to avoid inhaling the particles.

4. References:

- "Mica in Cosmetics" by FDA: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/mica-cosmetics

- "The Truth About Mica" by Environmental Working Group: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/701179-MICA/

- "Mica: The glittering dangers in your makeup bag" by The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/jul/24/mica-electronics-cosmetics-india-child-labour-minerals

Phragmites Communis Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phragmites Communis Extract:

Phragmites Communis Extract is an extract derived from the common reed, Phragmites Communis, which is a tall perennial grass found in wetlands and marshes. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Phragmites Communis Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and improve overall skin health. This extract is often found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Phragmites Communis Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Phragmites Communis Extract, it is important to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to the entire face or body. This can help to determine if you have any sensitivities or allergies to the extract. It is also recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, J. H., Hwang, J. K., Lee, Y. J., Oh, M. S., & Kim, J. S. (2013). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Phragmites communis extract in human lung epithelial A549 cells. Journal of Medicinal Food, 16(8), 719-726.

- Wang, Y., Xie, X., & Liu, Y. (2019). Protective effects of Phragmites communis extract on UV-induced photoaging in HaCaT cells. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(6), 1781-1789.

- Zhang, Y., Li, Y., Cao, L., & Wang, S. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Phragmites communis extract on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 198, 268-275.

Poria Cocos Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Poria Cocos Extract:

Poria Cocos Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Poria Cocos mushroom, also known as Fu Ling in traditional Chinese medicine. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Poria Cocos Extract is often included in cosmetics for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and provide hydration to the skin. It is also known to help improve skin tone and texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and brightening skincare products.

3. Usage Poria Cocos Extract:

Poria Cocos Extract can be found in various forms in cosmetics, including creams, serums, masks, and lotions. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%, depending on the desired effect. To use products containing Poria Cocos Extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to patch test products with this ingredient before full use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., Lim, Y., Kim, Y., Shin, S., & Kim, J. (2013). Anti-inflammatory activity of Poria cocos against Propionibacterium acnes-induced inflammation in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 147(2), 426-431.

- Lee, J., Kim, H., Lee, J., & Kwon, Y. (2015). Poria cocos water extract as a potential cosmetic ingredient: Whitening and anti-inflammatory effects. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 14(3), 253-258.

- Chen, Y., Hu, C., Hsu, C., & Liu, J. (2016). Poria cocos extract ameliorates experimental autoimmune encephalomyelitis by modulating the balance between Th17 and regulatory T cells in mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 189, 130-140.

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a botanical extract derived from the fruit of the cucumber plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its refreshing and calming effects on the skin.

2. Use:

Cucumber fruit extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and provide hydration. It is also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging. Additionally, cucumber extract is known for its cooling and refreshing sensation, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to calm and revitalize the skin.

3. Usage Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:

Cucumber fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients to enhance its benefits. When using products containing cucumber extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Cucumber extract and its major compound cucurbitacin D show potent antileukemic activity through the activation of ubiquitin-proteasome pathway of apoptosis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(3), 772.

- Mukherjee, P. K., Maity, N., Nema, N. K., & Sarkar, B. K. (2013). Phytochemical and therapeutic potential of cucumber. Fitoterapia, 84, 227-236.

- Yoon, J., Kwon, H. H., Min, S., & Thiboutot, D. M. (2018). The effect of a cucumber extract on skin hydration and sebum production in human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(6), 391-397.

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract:

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the dried calyx of the Hibiscus sabdariffa plant, also known as Roselle. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract is known for its anti-aging properties, as it helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. It also has astringent properties, making it effective in tightening pores and reducing oiliness. In haircare products, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract can help strengthen hair follicles, promote hair growth, and prevent hair loss.

3. Usage Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract:

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including serums, moisturizers, toners, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used at a concentration of 1-5% in skincare products and 0.5-2% in haircare products. To use products containing Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Chaudhuri, R. K., Bojanowski, K. (2014). Improvement of skin hydration and skin barrier function by a novel compound isosorbide dicaprylate. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(2), 98-105.

- Ali, B. H., Al Wabel, N. A., Blunden, G. (2005). Phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological aspects of Hibiscus sabdariffa L.: a review. Phytotherapy Research, 19(5), 369-375.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Chlorphenesin

Other name: Maolate

Function: Preservative, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and antiseptic agent. It is a white crystalline powder with a mild, pleasant odor.

2. Use:

Chlorphenesin is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various personal care products. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of harmful organisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Chlorphenesin:

Chlorphenesin is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulatory guidelines and recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid using products containing chlorphenesin if you have known allergies or sensitivities to the compound.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of chlorphenesin. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26 Suppl 3:61-72. doi: 10.1080/10915810701663150.

- Personal Care Products Council. Safety Assessment of Chlorphenesin as Used in Cosmetics. 2013. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr126.pdf.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. 2019. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.822.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.