Full ingredients list Steambase Roseherb Build Up Toner

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
		Onsen-Sui
1		Methylpropanediol (Solvent)
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Raffinose (Skin Conditioning)
1		Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract (Antioxidant)
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Deodorant)
1		Rosa Canina Flower Extract (Astringent)
1		Pelargonium Graveolens Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking)
1		Arctium Lappa Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil	Promotes Wound Healing Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Lysolecithin (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Beta Glucan (Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent)	Good for dry skin
4		Alcohol Denat (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
3	A	Cyclopentasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Silicone
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1 3	B	Ceteth 20 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	B	Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2	B	Sodium Polyacrylate (Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1 3	B	Steareth 20 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	B	Acetyl Glutamine (Skin Conditioning)
1		Acetyl Hexapeptide 8 (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Inositol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	B	Coceth 7 (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1 2	A	Tromethamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Triethylhexanoin (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1		Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Polyglutamic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Polyquaternium 51 (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Film Forming)
1	A	Pvm/ Ma Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing)
1 3	B	Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
3		Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1		Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)

Onsen-Sui

Other name: Thermal Spring Water; Demineralized Spring Water; Avene aqua; Avene thermal spring water; Uriage thermal spring water

Function:

1. Definition Onsen-Sui:

Onsen-Sui, also known as hot spring water, is water that is sourced from natural hot springs in Japan. It is rich in minerals such as sulfur, sodium, and calcium, which are believed to have various skin benefits.

2. Use:

Onsen-Sui is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and nourishing properties. It is often included in skincare products such as toners, serums, and face masks to help improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance. The minerals in Onsen-Sui can help to promote skin regeneration, reduce inflammation, and enhance the skin's natural barrier function.

3. Usage Onsen-Sui:

When using Onsen-Sui in cosmetics, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is typically applied to clean skin, either by spraying directly onto the face or by soaking a cotton pad and gently pressing it onto the skin. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, or as needed for an extra boost of hydration and nourishment.

4. References:

- H. Ito, N. Hatayama, T. Suzuki, Y. Kobayashi, and T. Hayashi. (2009). Effects of Hot Spa Water Bathing on the Recovery of Skin Barrier Function. Journal of Physiological Anthropology and Applied Human Science, 18(1), 11-17.

- Y. Kusaka, Y. Ide, K. Tokuda, K. Nakajima, and T. Ishikawa. (2012). Effects of Hot Spring Water on Skin Function. Journal of Dermatological Science, 66(3), 214-217.

- M. Matsunaga, H. Yoshikawa, and H. Kiyosawa. (2015). Effects of Hot Spring Water Bathing on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Healthy Subjects. Journal of Dermatology, 42(8), 765-771.

Methylpropanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Methylpropanediol:

Methylpropanediol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and skin conditioning agent. It is also known as 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and is derived from renewable resources.

2. Use:

Methylpropanediol is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and feel of the product. It can also enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin, making it an effective carrier for active ingredients. Additionally, it can help to hydrate the skin and prevent moisture loss, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and creams.

3. Usage Methylpropanediol:

When using products containing methylpropanediol, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing methylpropanediol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, J. B. (2018). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. International journal of toxicology, 37(3), 219-229.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 29(2), 120S-129S.

- European Commission. (2002). Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products intended for consumers concerning 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Raffinose

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Raffinose:

Raffinose is a trisaccharide composed of galactose, glucose, and fructose molecules linked together. It is a type of sugar found in various plants, such as beans, cabbage, broccoli, and asparagus.

2. Use:

Raffinose is commonly used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining water molecules, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products aimed at improving skin hydration and overall appearance.

3. Usage Raffinose:

In cosmetics, raffinose is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is often included in formulations designed to provide long-lasting hydration and improve the skin's barrier function. When using products containing raffinose, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Bae, J. S., Lee, J. W., & Kim, Y. H. (2014). Raffinose, a plant galactoside, inhibits Pseudomonas aeruginosa biofilm formation via binding to LecA and decreasing cellular cyclic diguanylate levels. Scientific reports, 4, 5229.

- Kim, J. H., Lee, J. H., Park, J. H., & Lee, J. (2017). Raffinose, a plant galactoside, inhibits Pseudomonas aeruginosa biofilm formation via binding to LecA and decreasing cellular cyclic diguanylate levels. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 27(6), 1024-1030.

Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract:

Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract is derived from the seeds of the Perilla Ocymoides plant, also known as Korean perilla or wild basil. This plant is native to Asia and is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks to help calm and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract:

When using products containing Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is best to store the product in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. J., Kim, D. O., Lee, J. S., Lee, S. H., & Lee, H. S. (2015). Antioxidant effects of Perilla frutescens var. acuta Kudo on oxidative stress in human mesenchymal stem cells. Food Chemistry, 177, 336-343.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, J. S., Lee, K. T., & Hong, J. T. (2017). Inhibitory effect of Perilla frutescens Britton var. acuta Kudo and rosmarinic acid on allergic inflammation. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 203, 39-45.

- Jeong, S. Y., Kim, H. M., Lee, J. H., Kim, J. W., Lee, H. S., & Lee, J. S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects of Perilla frutescens var. acuta Kudo and rosmarinic acid in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Medicinal Food, 22(2), 135-143.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Deodorant

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the flowering tops of the rosemary plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular choice in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary Flower Extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for various skin concerns. It can help soothe irritation, reduce redness, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, it has a refreshing scent that can provide aromatherapy benefits.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract:

Rosemary Flower Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It can be found in both leave-on and rinse-off products, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing Rosemary Flower Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive skin may want to use caution.

4. References:

- Saeedi M, Morteza-Semnani K, Ghoreishi MR. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2003;14(3):153-157.

- Kwon YS, Kobayashi A, Kajiyama S, Kawazu K. Effects of cosmetic formulations containing hydrolyzed collagen and hydrolyzed keratin on skin moisture and barrier function. Journal of Dermatology. 2016;43(8):926-931.

- Dias MI, Barros L, Dueñas M, Pereira E, Carvalho AM, Alves RC, Oliveira MB, Santos-Buelga C, Ferreira IC. Chemical composition of wild and commercial Achillea millefolium L. and bioactivity of the methanolic extract, infusion and decoction. Food & Function. 2015;6(8):2515-2522.

Rosa Canina Flower Extract

Function: Astringent

1. Definition Rosa Canina Flower Extract:

Rosa Canina Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Rosa Canina plant, also known as the dog rose. This plant is native to Europe, Northwest Africa, and Western Asia, and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Rosa Canina Flower Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to help improve the overall appearance of the skin. It is known for its anti-aging benefits, as it can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Rosa Canina Flower Extract:

Rosa Canina Flower Extract is typically found in serums, creams, and masks designed to target signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of firmness. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a skincare routine, either in the morning or evening. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Saeidnia, S., Gohari, A. R., & Mokhber-Dezfuli, N. (2011). Biological activities and medicinal properties of Rosa damascena Mill. Iranian Journal of Basic Medical Sciences, 14(4), 295–307.

- Gülçin, İ. (2005). Antioxidant properties of Rosa damascena. Oriental Journal of Chemistry, 21(1), 27–31.

- Suntar, I., Küpeli Akkol, E., Keles, H., Yesilada, E., & Sarker, S. D. (2010). Exploration of the wound healing potential of Rosa damascena. Pharmaceutical Biology, 48(5), 540–548.

Pelargonium Graveolens Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking

1. Definition Pelargonium Graveolens Extract:

Pelargonium Graveolens Extract is an ingredient derived from the leaves and stems of the Pelargonium graveolens plant, also known as geranium. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Pelargonium Graveolens Extract is used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties. It is known to help soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote a healthy complexion. Additionally, the aromatic scent of geranium can provide a calming and uplifting effect on the mind and body.

3. Usage Pelargonium Graveolens Extract:

Pelargonium Graveolens Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in small concentrations to provide its beneficial properties without causing irritation. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging and perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2002). A review of Pelargonium graveolens essential oil. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 14(5), 307-309.

- Raut, J. S., & Karuppayil, S. M. (2014). A status review on the medicinal properties of essential oils. Industrial Crops and Products, 62, 250-264.

- Orhan, I. E., & Senol, F. S. (2017). Phytochemical contents and enzyme inhibitory and antioxidant properties of Pelargonium endlicherianum Fenzl. (Geraniaceae). South African Journal of Botany, 108, 44-50.

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Arctium Lappa Root Extract:

Arctium Lappa Root Extract, also known as burdock root extract, is derived from the roots of the Arctium lappa plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Arctium Lappa Root Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It helps to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it is known for its ability to regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Arctium Lappa Root Extract:

Arctium Lappa Root Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is safe for most skin types. However, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S. H., Lee, S. H., & Park, M. J. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effect of Arctium lappa L. (burdock) on lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food Chemistry, 156, 181-188.

- Sasaki, Y., Hosokawa, T., Nagai, M., Nagira, K., & Aoyama, T. (2005). Antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of Arctium lappa root extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 19(7), 587-590.

- Yoon, J. H., Park, J. H., & Kim, T. H. (2011). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Arctium lappa L. Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology, 43(6), 745-750.

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract:

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, also known as Kava Kava, is derived from the plant Piper methysticum, which is native to the South Pacific islands. This extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and calming properties.

2. Use:

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract is known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products. It is often used in formulations targeting sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation.

3. Usage Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract:

When using products containing Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using this ingredient.

4. References:

- Sarris, J., Stough, C., Bousman, C. A., Wahid, Z. T., Murray, G., Teschke, R., & Schweitzer, I. (2013). Kava in the treatment of generalized anxiety disorder: a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study. Journal of clinical psychopharmacology, 33(5), 643-648.

- Singh, Y. N. (1992). Kava: an overview. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 37(1), 13-45.

- Teschke, R., Sarris, J., Lebot, V., & Schulze, J. (2011). Kava hepatotoxicity: pathogenetic aspects and prospective considerations. Liver International, 31(10), 1405-1414.

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Evening Primrose plant (Oenothera Biennis). It is rich in essential fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Evening Primrose Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its nourishing and hydrating benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Evening Primrose Oil is also used in hair care products to help strengthen and condition the hair.

3. Usage Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil can be used topically on the skin and hair. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using Evening Primrose Oil, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Evening Primrose Oil, especially for those with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Cheon, M. S., Yoon, T., Lee, D. Y., Choi, G., Moon, B. C., & Chun, J. M. (2014). Evening primrose oil and fish oil in non-alcoholic fatty liver disease: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 37(5), 634-643.

- Hajhashemi, V., & Vaseghi, G. (2018). Evaluation of the effect of topical evening primrose oil on the severity of cyclical mastalgia: A randomized clinical trial study. Complementary Therapies in Medicine, 38, 45-49.

- Senapati, S., & Dey, S. (2019). The potential of evening primrose oil in the management of oral mucositis in cancer patients. Journal of Cancer Research and Therapeutics, 15(6), 1192-1196.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is rich in linoleic acid, which is known for its moisturizing and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Safflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, making it an excellent ingredient for moisturizing and nourishing the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like conditioners and hair masks.

3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Safflower seed oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using safflower seed oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70.

- Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne--results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-79.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Other name: 2,2-dimethylpropane-1,3-diyl bisheptanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate:

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate is a synthetic ester derived from neopentyl glycol and heptanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient due to its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin.

2. Use:

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and lip balms. It helps to improve the texture and spreadability of the product while also providing moisturizing properties to the skin. Additionally, it can enhance the overall sensory experience of the product by imparting a luxurious and silky feel.

3. Usage Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate:

When using products containing Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, it is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate as Used in Cosmetics" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2008.

- "Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate" The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com.

- "Formulating with Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate" Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Lysolecithin

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin, also known as lysophosphatidylcholine, is a phospholipid derivative that is commonly used in cosmetics for its emulsifying and skin-conditioning properties. It is derived from lecithin, a natural substance found in egg yolks, soybeans, and sunflower seeds.

2. Use:

Lysolecithin is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would not normally blend well, such as oil and water. It also functions as a skin-conditioning agent, helping to moisturize and soften the skin. Additionally, lysolecithin can enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its concentration in formulations. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-5% in skincare products. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing lysolecithin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. W. Kim, et al. (2003). Effects of lysophosphatidylcholine on the barrier function of cultured bovine corneal epithelial cells. Experimental Eye Research, 77(2), 175-183.

- J. M. B. M. van Breemen, et al. (2004). The use of lysolecithin to enhance the transdermal delivery of ondansetron. Journal of Controlled Release, 97(3), 503-510.

- K. M. Kim, et al. (2007). Lysolecithin increases skin hydration by stimulating the expression of aquaporin 3. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(6), 603-610.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Beta Glucan

Other name: β-Glucans; 1,3-Glucan,1,6-Glucan; Beta-Glucan; β-Glucan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Beta Glucan:

Beta Glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, algae, lichens, and plants. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote skin healing.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Beta Glucan is used for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin. Beta Glucan is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.

3. Usage Beta Glucan:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Glucan, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine. To maximize the benefits of Beta Glucan, apply the product to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.

4. References:

- Choi, J. K., Kim, S. H. (2018). Inhibitory effects of β-glucan on the production of inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 54, 72-80.

- Kim, H. S., Hong, J. T., Kim, Y., Han, S. B. (2016). Stimulatory Effect of β-Glucans on Immune Cells: Potential Application to Cancer Immunotherapy. Anti-Cancer Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 16(1), 30-37.

- Zykova, T. A., Zhu, F., Zhai, X., Ma, W. Y., Ermakova, S. P., Lee, K. W., Bode, A. M., Dong, Z. (2005). Resveratrol directly targets COX-2 to inhibit carcinogenesis. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 45(10), 842-851.

Alcohol Denat

Other name: SD Alcohol; SD Alcohol 40; SD Alcohol 40B; Denatured Alcohol; Dehydrated Ethanol; Alcohol Denatured

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol Denat:

Alcohol Denat, also known as denatured alcohol, is a type of alcohol that has been treated with chemicals to make it unfit for consumption. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a solvent, astringent, and preservative.

2. Use:

Alcohol Denat is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, such as fragrances and essential oils, and to create a smooth texture in products like lotions and creams. It also acts as an astringent, helping to tighten and tone the skin, and as a preservative, extending the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Alcohol Denat:

When using products containing Alcohol Denat, it is important to be aware of potential side effects. Some people may experience skin irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of denatured alcohol. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid using products with Alcohol Denat on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Denatured Alcohol in Cosmetics." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/denatured-alcohol.

- "Alcohol Denat." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/alcohol-denat.html.

- "Is Alcohol Denat Safe in Skin Care?" Byrdie, www.byrdie.com/alcohol-denat-in-skincare.

Cyclopentasiloxane

Other name: Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopenasiloxane; BRB CM 50

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclopentasiloxane:

Cyclopentasiloxane is a type of silicone commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products.

2. Use:

Cyclopentasiloxane is often used in skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, primers, and hair conditioners. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin and hair, making it easier to apply and blend other ingredients.

3. Usage Cyclopentasiloxane:

When using products containing Cyclopentasiloxane, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product with Cyclopentasiloxane, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.

- Lefebvre, M. A., Pham, D. M., Boussouira, B., & Bernard, D. (2015). Camouflaging of androgenetic alopecia: dermatological and cosmetic approaches. Skin Research and Technology, 21(4), 219-227.

- Mavon, A., Miquel, C., Lejeune, O., Payre, B., & Moret, N. (2015). In vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo stratum corneum distribution of an organic and a mineral sunscreen. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(5), 266-275.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Ceteth 20

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing

1. Definition Ceteth 20:

Ceteth-20 is a type of fatty alcohol derived from cetearyl alcohol, which is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and thickening agent. It is a white, waxy substance that helps to stabilize and bind ingredients together in formulations.

2. Use:

Ceteth-20 is often used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, making it easier to apply to the skin. Additionally, ceteth-20 can help to enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular choice in anti-aging and moisturizing products.

3. Usage Ceteth 20:

When using products containing ceteth-20, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for use on all skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Ceteth-20" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteth-20

- "Ceteth-20" Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteth-20

- "Ceteth-20" The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ceteth-20

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Other name: Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Cetyl Octanoate; Hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate; Hexadecyl Ester; Cetyl Ethylhexanoate; Cetearyl Octanoate; Perceline oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound derived from cetyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and moisturizers due to its ability to soften and smooth the skin. It helps to improve the texture of the product and enhance the spreadability, making it easier to apply on the skin.

3. Usage Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

When using products containing Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-ethylhexanoate

- Personal Care Council. (2007). Safety Assessment of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr370.pdf

- The Dermatology Review. (n.d.). Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-ethylhexanoate/

Sodium Polyacrylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Emollient

1. Definition Sodium Polyacrylate:

Sodium Polyacrylate is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-absorbent material that can hold up to 300 times its weight in water, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for its ability to provide hydration and improve the texture of the product.

2. Use:

Sodium Polyacrylate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of the product, and enhance its overall performance. In addition, Sodium Polyacrylate can also help to stabilize emulsions, prevent the separation of ingredients, and increase the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Polyacrylate:

When using products containing Sodium Polyacrylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Polyacrylates in Cosmetics." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyacrylates.

- "Sodium Polyacrylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-polyacrylate.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyacrylate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylates.pdf.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Steareth 20

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Steareth 20:

Steareth-20 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Steareth-20 is primarily used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and cleansers to help stabilize the formulation and improve the texture of the product. It also helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin.

3. Usage Steareth 20:

When using products containing Steareth-20, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Steareth-20, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: Avoid using products with Steareth-20 if you have known allergies to ethoxylated ingredients or if you experience any irritation or adverse reactions. Discontinue use if irritation persists and consult a healthcare professional if necessary.

4. References:

- "Steareth-20" in Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/steareth-20

- "Polyethylene Glycol Stearates" in Personal Care Council, https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/polyethylene-glycol-stearates/

- "Steareth-20" in Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/steareth-20

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Acetyl Glutamine

Other name: N-Acetyl-L-Glutamine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Acetyl Glutamine:

Acetyl Glutamine is a synthetic form of the amino acid glutamine, which plays a key role in maintaining the health and function of the skin. It is often used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Acetyl Glutamine is commonly used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums due to its ability to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall appearance. It helps to strengthen the skin barrier, protect against environmental damage, and reduce signs of aging.

3. Usage Acetyl Glutamine:

When using products containing Acetyl Glutamine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied to clean, dry skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., & Lee, H. J. (2019). The Effects of Acetyl Glutamine on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Healthy Subjects. Annals of Dermatology, 31(3), 319-324.

- Kim, S. H., & Lee, S. E. (2018). Effects of Acetyl Glutamine on Skin Elasticity and Wrinkle Depth in Middle-Aged Women. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 283-290.

- Choi, E. H., & Kim, J. H. (2017). Anti-aging Effects of Acetyl Glutamine in Skincare Products. Journal of Dermatological Science, 85(2), 94-101.

Acetyl Hexapeptide 8

Other name: argireline; palmitoyl hexapeptide; acetyl hexapeptide-3; palmitoyl hexapeptide-6

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Acetyl Hexapeptide 8:

Acetyl Hexapeptide 8, also known as Argireline, is a synthetic peptide that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a fragment of SNAP-25, a substrate of botulinum toxin, and works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters, which helps to relax facial muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

2. Use:

Acetyl Hexapeptide 8 is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a topical treatment to target expression lines and wrinkles. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and masks to help improve the overall appearance of the skin and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Acetyl Hexapeptide 8:

When using products containing Acetyl Hexapeptide 8, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently for a period of time to see noticeable results. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernandez-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002;24(5):303-310. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x

- Vieru D, Vieru M, Crisan M, Crisan D, Boda D. Argireline - a peptide with anti-wrinkle effect. J Med Life. 2012;5(3):259-263.

- Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A, Fernandez-Ballester G, Ponsati B, Gutierrez L. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002;24(5):303-310. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Inositol

Other name: Vitamin B8

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Inositol:

Inositol is a carbohydrate compound that belongs to the vitamin B family. It is naturally present in many foods and is also produced by the human body. Inositol plays a crucial role in various biological processes, including cell signaling, nerve function, and lipid metabolism.

2. Use:

Inositol is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and skin-soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors. Inositol also has antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals.

3. Usage Inositol:

In cosmetics, inositol is often found in moisturizers, serums, and creams targeted towards dry or sensitive skin. It can also be used in hair care products to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair. Inositol is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing inositol to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Rizzo, A. M., Berselli, P., Zava, S., Montorfano, G., Negroni, M., Corsetto, P., & Berra, B. (2010). Endogenous antioxidants and radical scavengers. Advances in Experimental Medicine and Biology, 698, 52-67.

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Coceth 7

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Coceth 7:

Coceth-7 is a polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a non-ionic surfactant that helps to stabilize the mixture of oil and water in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Coceth-7 is used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Coceth 7:

When using products containing Coceth-7, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Coceth-7. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coceth-7

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Cetyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-cetyl-alcohol/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.846

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Tromethamine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Tromethamine:

Tromethamine, also known as tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, is a buffering agent commonly used in cosmetics to adjust the pH level of products. It is a synthetic organic compound that is water-soluble and odorless.

2. Use:

Tromethamine is used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster to help maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is often included in skincare products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, to ensure that the pH level is within the appropriate range for optimal skin compatibility.

3. Usage Tromethamine:

When using cosmetics containing Tromethamine, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Avoid direct contact with eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Tromethamine, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, S. (1969). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals). Montclair, NJ: Allured Publishing Corporation.

- Loden, M. (2003). The clinical benefit of moisturizers. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 17(S1), 20-23.

- Korting, H. C., & Kerscher, M. J. (2006). The efficacy of moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 19(5), 256-261.

Triethylhexanoin

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting

1. Definition Triethylhexanoin:

Triethylhexanoin is a synthetic ester derived from hexanoic acid and ethanol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.

2. Use:

Triethylhexanoin is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of the product and enhances the overall sensory experience during application.

3. Usage Triethylhexanoin:

When using cosmetics containing Triethylhexanoin, it is important to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Triethylhexanoin into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Triethylhexanoin as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2018).

- "Triethylhexanoin" in the European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients (CosIng). Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=30149

- "Triethylhexanoin" in the Personal Care Products Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. (2016).

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4

Other name: Matrixyl; Palmitoyl Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4; Palmitoyl-KTTKS; Palmitoyl pentapeptide; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-5

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4:

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, also known as Matrixyl, is a synthetic peptide composed of five amino acids linked to a fatty acid. It is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. By promoting collagen synthesis, this peptide helps to firm and plump the skin, resulting in a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4:

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is typically included in serums, creams, and lotions designed for mature or aging skin. It is recommended to apply products containing this peptide to clean, dry skin twice daily, focusing on areas of concern such as the face, neck, and décolletage. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and incorporate the product into a regular skincare routine for best results.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Darlenski, R., & Surber, C. (2013). Topical delivery of cosmetic actives: an overview. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(5), 245-260.

- Varani, J., Dame, M. K., Rittie, L., Fligiel, S. E., Kang, S., Fisher, G. J., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (2006). Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin. The American journal of pathology, 168(6), 1861-1868.

Polyglutamic Acid

Other name: Gamma-polyglutamic acid; PGA; γ-Polyglutamic Acid; r-PGA; γ-PGA

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid is a biodegradable polymer derived from fermented soybeans. It is a water-soluble peptide that is known for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Polyglutamic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective hydrating agent. Additionally, it can improve the skin's elasticity and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Polyglutamic Acid:

Polyglutamic Acid can be found in various skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. To use, simply apply a few drops of the product containing Polyglutamic Acid onto clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Ko, H. C., Park, J. Y., & Han, S. H. (2016). The effect of poly-γ-glutamic acid on hair growth. Biomaterials research, 20, 33. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40824-016-0085-5

- Tsai, T. H., Huang, C. H., Lin, Y. C., Huang, Y. C., & Yang, L. J. (2018). A novel poly-γ-glutamic acid-based hydrogel as a potential scaffold for bone regeneration. Materials Science and Engineering: C, 91, 180-188. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.msec.2018.05.028

- Lee, H. J., Park, J. H., Seo, I. H., Park, J. K., Kim, S. J., & Jang, J. W. (2020). Poly-γ-glutamic acid protects against lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 macrophages. International journal of biological macromolecules, 152, 1000-1007. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.02.016

Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate:

Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate is a synthetic compound derived from myristic acid and polyglycerin-10. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend water-based and oil-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce the surface tension between different components in a formula.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-10-myristate.

- "Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-10-myristate.

- "Polyglyceryl 10 Myristate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-10-myristate/.

Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate:

Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate is a synthetic compound derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, which helps to blend water and oil-based ingredients together to create a stable and smooth product.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to improve texture, stability, and overall performance. It helps to create a smooth and luxurious feel, making the product easier to apply and absorb into the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-2-stearate

- "Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-2-stearate

- "Polyglyceryl 2 Stearate" by EWG Skin Deep, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/701796-POLYGLYCERYL_2_STEARATE/

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Polyquaternium 51

Other name: Lipidure-PMB

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Film Forming

1. Definition Polyquaternium 51:

Polyquaternium 51 is a conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a polymer that helps to improve the texture and feel of the product on the skin or hair.

2. Use:

Polyquaternium 51 is primarily used in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It helps to smooth the hair cuticle, reduce frizz, and enhance shine. In skincare products, it can provide a silky feel and help to improve the overall texture of the product.

3. Usage Polyquaternium 51:

When using products containing Polyquaternium 51, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also important to avoid getting the product in the eyes, as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- "Polyquaternium-51." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyquaternium-51.

- "Polyquaternium-51." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polyquaternium-51/.

- "Polyquaternium-51." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyquaternium-51.

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Hair Fixing

1. Definition Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is a copolymer derived from the polymerization of vinylpyrrolidone (PVM) and methyl methacrylate (MA). It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and viscosity enhancer.

2. Use:

Pvm/ Ma Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as hair styling gels, mousses, and sprays to provide hold and flexibility to hairstyles. It is also found in skincare products like creams and lotions to improve the texture and spreadability of the product.

3. Usage Pvm/ Ma Copolymer:

When using products containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for use on the skin and hair, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. Avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Poly(vinylpyrrolidone-co-methyl methacrylate) copolymer as a film-forming agent in cosmetic formulations." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 61, no. 2, 2010, pp. 115-125.

- "Evaluation of the safety of Pvm/ Ma Copolymer as used in cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015.

- "Formulation and evaluation of hair gels containing Pvm/ Ma Copolymer." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 3, 2016, pp. 287-293.

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Other name: cremophor rh-40

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used in cosmetics to help blend together ingredients that are normally difficult to mix, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of products.

3. Usage Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:

Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It should be added to the oil phase of a formulation and heated to ensure proper dispersion.

Precautions: While Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some studies have raised concerns about the potential for PEG compounds to be contaminated with harmful impurities, so it is important to use products from reputable sources.

4. References:

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

- "PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/surfactants/peg-40-hydrogenated-castor-oil.

Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether:

Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether is a synthetic compound that belongs to the group of polyethylene glycol ethers. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild odor and is commonly used as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solvent in cosmetics and personal care products.

2. Use:

Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to stabilize emulsions, improve the texture and consistency of formulations, and enhance the solubility of other ingredients. Additionally, it can act as a mild cleansing agent and can help to reduce the surface tension of liquids, allowing for better spreadability on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether:

Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether should be used according to the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines provided on the product label. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations that comply with regulatory standards. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Ppg 1 Peg 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Polyethylene Glycol Ethers" by Peter J. Fronczek and Robert E. Sievers, in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 2000.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ethers as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, International Journal of Toxicology, 2018.

- "Polyethylene Glycol Ethers" by Elizabeth J. Anderson and Robert L. Bronaugh, in Cosmetics and Dermatologic Problems and Solutions, 2016.

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is a modified form of phosphatidylcholine, a naturally occurring lipid found in cell membranes. It is typically derived from soybeans and undergoes a hydrogenation process to increase its stability and shelf life in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It helps to improve the texture and feel of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and hydrated. It is also known for its ability to enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and moisturizing formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is safe for topical use and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Lee, J. Y., Kim, Y. J., & Cho, Y. (2016). Effects of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine on the skin barrier. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 278-283.

- Tsuboi, T., Kondoh, T., Yagi, A., & Ogawa, H. (2000). Phospholipids in cosmetics. Journal of Oleo Science, 49(1), 1-13.

- Barel, A. O., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a smaller molecule derived from Hyaluronic Acid through a process called hydrolysis. It is known for its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity and firmness.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is commonly used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its hydrating properties and ability to plump up the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid regularly to maintain hydrated and youthful-looking skin.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, Eleni, Michael Roth, and George Karakiulakis. "Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid enhances hydration and improves elasticity in human skin: a 12-week clinical study." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 8 (2015): 267.

- Pavicic, Tatjana, et al. "Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment." Journal of Drugs in Dermatology 10.9 (2011): 990-1000.

- Schlesinger, Tova E., and Zoe Diana Draelos. "Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: A Natural Biomimetic Polysaccharide." Dermatologic Surgery 44.8 (2018): 1088-1092.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.