Full ingredients list Sunday Riley 5 Stars Retinoid + ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1		Caprylyl Methicone (Skin Conditioning)
1		Polyglycerin 6 (Humectant)
1		Dimethyl Isosorbide (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone (Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3	A	Peg 12 Dimethicone (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
		PPG-20
1		Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil
		Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Skin Conditioning)
9	A	Retinol (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Brightening Acne fighting
1		Asiaticoside (Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Madecassic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Asiatic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
1		Papaver Rhoeas (Corn Poppy) Extract (Emollient, Soothing)
1		Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Hieracium Pilosella Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking)
1	A	Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Methylpropanediol (Solvent)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Potassium Phosphate (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Polyquaternium 80 (Emulsifying, Hair Conditioning, Cleansing)
		Didecyldimonium Chloride (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Antioxidant)
1		Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol (Uv Absorber)
2		Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1		Sodium Phytate (Chelating Agent)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Sodium Citrate (Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1	A	Sodium Dehydroacetate (Preservative)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Caprylyl Methicone

Other name: 3-Octylheptamethyltrisiloxane

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Caprylyl Methicone:

Caprylyl Methicone is a silicone-based skin conditioning agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to improve the spreadability and texture of products while providing a smooth, silky feel on the skin.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Methicone is primarily used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent in various cosmetic formulations such as moisturizers, sunscreens, foundations, and hair care products. It helps to enhance the overall sensory experience of the product by imparting a soft and velvety feel, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin or hair.

3. Usage Caprylyl Methicone:

When using products containing Caprylyl Methicone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reaction occurs.

4. References:

- "Caprylyl Methicone" in Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/caprylyl-methicone

- "Caprylyl Methicone" in The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/caprylyl-methicone

- "Caprylyl Methicone" in Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/caprylyl-methicone

Polyglycerin 6

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Polyglycerin 6:

Polyglycerin 6 is a polyol compound derived from glycerin that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and moisturizing agent. It is a clear, viscous liquid that helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Polyglycerin 6 is used in cosmetics to hydrate and moisturize the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. It can be found in a wide range of products such as moisturizers, serums, lotions, and creams. Its emollient properties help to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing water loss and maintaining hydration levels.

3. Usage Polyglycerin 6:

When using products containing Polyglycerin 6, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Avoid contact with the eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. K. S. (2016). Polyglycerin-6. Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglycerin-6

- Thakur, N. S., & Thakur, A. (2017). Polyglycerin-6 as a Humectant in Cosmetic Formulations. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 8(12), 5019-5024.

- Kim, J. Y., Lee, J. S., & Kim, D. S. (2019). Formulation and Evaluation of Polyglycerin-6 Based Moisturizing Cream. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 45(1), 1-8.

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Other name: Arlasolve DMI

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Isosorbide:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is a high purity solvent and carrier that is derived from natural corn sugar. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is often used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and penetration enhancer. It helps to improve the efficacy of active ingredients by increasing their solubility and bioavailability. This ingredient is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and other skincare products where deep penetration into the skin is desired.

3. Usage Dimethyl Isosorbide:

When using products containing Dimethyl Isosorbide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to Dimethyl Isosorbide, so it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Dragicevic N, Maibach HI. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Modification of the Stratum Corneum. CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2016.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-6; discussion 836.

- Muizzuddin N, Hellemans L, Van Overloop L, Corstjens H, Declercq L, Maes D. Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2010;59(2):123-8.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone

Function: Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone:

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a derivative of silicone that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone is primarily used in cosmetics for its conditioning properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling silky and hydrated. In haircare products, it helps to detangle hair, reduce frizz, and add shine. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products.

3. Usage Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone:

When using products containing Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to silicone-based ingredients. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Siltech. (n.d.). Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone. Retrieved from https://www.siltech.com/product/cetyl-diglyceryl-tris-trimethylsiloxy-silylethyl-dimethicone/

- Personal Care Magazine. (2017). Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone. Retrieved from https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/24525/cetyl-diglyceryl-tris-trimethylsiloxy-silylethyl-dimethicone

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-diglyceryl-tris-trimethylsiloxy-silylethyl-dimethicone

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Other name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutylene

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent

1. Definition Hydrogenated Polyisobutene:

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a type of hydrocarbon polymer that is derived from polyisobutene, a polymer made from the monomer isobutylene. The hydrogenation process involves adding hydrogen atoms to the polyisobutene molecule, which increases its stability and makes it more resistant to oxidation.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to improve the texture of products, providing a smooth and creamy consistency. Additionally, it has emollient properties that help to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lip balms, lipsticks, and moisturizers.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Polyisobutene:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- M. Paye, H. Cozien, and J. L. Leveque, "Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: A New Synthetic Raw Material for Cosmetics," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 21, no. 4, pp. 197-208, 1999.

- L. B. Smith, K. A. Johnson, and S. D. Williams, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as Used in Cosmetics," International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 37, no. 1, pp. 59-68, 2018.

- P. K. Gupta and R. S. Gaur, "Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: A Review on its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 69, no. 2, pp. 95-106, 2018.

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Peg 12 Dimethicone

Other name: Silsurf D212CG; Dow Corning 5329; DC 5329

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Peg 12 Dimethicone:

Peg 12 Dimethicone is a type of silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and conditioning agent. It is a water-soluble compound that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Peg 12 Dimethicone is often included in cosmetic formulations to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to moisturize and condition the skin, leaving it soft and hydrated. In haircare products, it can help to detangle and smooth the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Peg 12 Dimethicone:

Peg 12 Dimethicone is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, lotions, serums, and hair conditioners. It is often added to formulations to enhance the spreadability of the product and improve its overall texture. When using products containing Peg 12 Dimethicone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid applying excessive amounts to the skin or hair.

4. References:

- "PEG-12 Dimethicone." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-12-dimethicone.

- Loden, Marie. "Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function." Clinics in Dermatology, vol. 30, no. 3, 2012, pp. 286-296.

- "Dimethicone." Environmental Working Group, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702011-DIMETHICONE/.

PPG-20

Function:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil

Function:

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil is a natural oil derived from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. In haircare products, olive oil can help to condition and strengthen the hair, reducing frizz and promoting shine.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil:

Olive oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and cleansers. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into DIY beauty treatments. When using olive oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure you do not have any allergic reactions. It is best to use olive oil in moderation, as excessive use can lead to greasy skin or hair.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). "Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice." McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Sur, R., & Nigam, A. (2011). "Grape seed oil: a potential functional food?" Journal of Food Science and Technology.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, also known as HPR, is a retinoid derivative that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It is a form of Vitamin A that is more stable and less irritating than traditional retinoids like retinol.

2. Use:

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is used in cosmetics and skincare products to promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often found in serums, creams, and oils targeted towards anti-aging and improving overall skin health.

3. Usage Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate:

When using products containing Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, it is important to start with a lower concentration to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Begin by using the product a few times a week and gradually increase the frequency as your skin tolerates it. It is also crucial to use sunscreen daily when using HPR, as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity and make the skin more prone to sun damage.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308–319.

- Sorg, O., & Saurat, J. H. (2010). Topical retinoids in skin aging: a focused update with reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency. Dermatology, 221(1), 74–78.

Retinol

Other name: Vitamin A1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinol:

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a potent ingredient that can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

2. Use:

Retinol is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is known for its ability to increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin tone and texture. Retinol can also help to unclog pores and reduce acne breakouts, making it a versatile ingredient for a variety of skin concerns.

3. Usage Retinol:

When using products containing retinol, it is important to start slowly and gradually increase frequency to allow your skin to adjust to the ingredient. Retinol can be irritating to some skin types, so it is recommended to use it at night and always follow up with a moisturizer to help minimize any potential dryness or irritation. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G. J., & Wang, X. (2016). The role of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging. Molecules, 21(8), 100.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

See more: Retinol

Asiaticoside

Function: Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Asiaticoside:

Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is a natural ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Asiaticoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles and promote hair growth.

3. Usage Asiaticoside:

When using products containing Asiaticoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Asiaticoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. Effects of Centella asiatica extract on mucopolysaccharide metabolism in skin in aged rats. Planta Med. 2009;75(6):689-695.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizenz P, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Adv Dermatol Allergol. 2013;30(1):46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Dhawan BN. Asiaticoside-induced elevation of antioxidant levels in healing wounds. Phytother Res. 1999;13(1):50-54.

Madecassic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Madecassic Acid:

Madecassic Acid is a triterpenoid compound derived from the medicinal plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help calm irritation and breakouts.

3. Usage Madecassic Acid:

When using products containing Madecassic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Start by using the product once every few days and gradually increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well. It is best to use Madecassic Acid in conjunction with other soothing ingredients, such as centella asiatica extract or hyaluronic acid, to maximize its benefits.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim HL, Lee MH, You YJ, Choi YJ, Park CW, Kim HC, Lee JY, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic inflammation in an atopic dermatitis-like murine model. Int Immunopharmacol. 2016 Nov;40:362-369. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2016.09.023. Epub 2016 Sep 26. PMID: 27685721.

- Kim D, Kim SH, Chang YJ, Kim J, Kim Y. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic airway inflammation in an ovalbumin-induced murine model of asthma. Int Immunopharmacol. 2019 Jan;66:294-301. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2018.11.003. Epub 2018 Nov 6. PMID: 30414514.

- Park MY, Kwon HJ, Sung MK. Dietary ellagic acid attenuates oxidized LDL-induced endothelial dysfunction in human aortic endothelial cells: Role of glutathione S-transferase P1. Food Chem Toxicol. 2013 May;55:100-6. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2013.01.040. Epub 2013 Feb 1. PMID: 23376370.

Asiatic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Stabilising

1. Definition Asiatic Acid:

Asiatic acid is a triterpenoid compound found in plants such as Centella asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Asiatic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce inflammation, promote collagen production, and improve skin elasticity. This makes it an ideal ingredient for products targeting sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or those looking to combat signs of aging.

3. Usage Asiatic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Asiatic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Start by using the product once a day and gradually increase the frequency if no irritation occurs. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Asiatic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Lee JH, et al. (2018). Asiatic acid inhibits pulmonary inflammation induced by cigarette smoke.

- Bylka W, et al. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology.

- Kimura Y, et al. (2008). Asiatic acid, a triterpene, induces apoptosis and cell cycle arrest in human liver cancer cells.

Papaver Rhoeas (Corn Poppy) Extract

Function: Emollient, Soothing

1. Definition Papaver Rhoeas (Corn Poppy) Extract:

Papaver Rhoeas (Corn Poppy) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Papaver Rhoeas flower. It is known for its soothing and antioxidant properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Papaver Rhoeas Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and calming effects on the skin. It is often found in products designed to soothe sensitive or irritated skin, as well as in anti-aging formulations due to its antioxidant properties.

3. Usage Papaver Rhoeas (Corn Poppy) Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Papaver Rhoeas Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2002). Natural ingredients for colour cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 287-302.

- Saeedi, M., Morteza-Semnani, K., Ghoreishi, M. R., & Akbarzadeh, M. (2011). The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 22(2), 97-101.

- Lai, Y., & Gallo, R. L. (2009). AMPed up immunity: how antimicrobial peptides have multiple roles in immune defense. Trends in Immunology, 30(3), 131-141.

Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract:

Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the common daisy flower, known for its soothing and calming properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits.

2. Use:

Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract is often included in skincare formulations to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation. It is also known for its brightening and skin-toning properties, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting uneven skin tone or hyperpigmentation.

3. Usage Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract:

Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract is typically found in creams, serums, lotions, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into various skincare products. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, M., Kim, S., & Lee, H. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effects of Bellis perennis on LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Immunopharmacology and Immunotoxicology, 37(3), 248-253.

- Kim, S., Kim, M., & Lee, H. (2016). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Bellis perennis on UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(4), 420-426.

- Park, J., Yoo, J., & Lee, H. (2018). Skin-brightening effects of Bellis perennis extract in human skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 39-45.

Hieracium Pilosella Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking

1. Definition Hieracium Pilosella Extract:

Hieracium Pilosella Extract, also known as mouse-ear hawkweed extract, is derived from the flowering plant Hieracium pilosella. This extract is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and astringent properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Hieracium Pilosella Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental stressors. It is often found in products targeting acne-prone skin, as it can help to regulate sebum production and minimize the appearance of pores. Additionally, its antioxidant properties can help to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging.

3. Usage Hieracium Pilosella Extract:

Hieracium Pilosella Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%, depending on the desired effects. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Gülçin, İ., & Elias, R. (2018). Antioxidant activity of Hieracium pilosella L. (Asteraceae). African Journal of Traditional, Complementary and Alternative Medicines, 15(2), 86-92.

- Landa, P., Marsik, P., Havlik, J., Kloucek, P., Vanek, T., & Kokoska, L. (2009). Evaluation of antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activities of seed extracts from six Hieracium species. Planta Medica, 75(2), 178-181.

- Dall'Acqua, S., & Innocenti, G. (2013). Phytochemistry and pharmacology of Hieracium pilosella L. (Asteraceae): a review. Phytochemistry Reviews, 12(4), 707-719.

Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer:

Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and texture enhancer. It is a crosslinked polymer of dimethicone and vinyl dimethicone, which helps to improve the spreadability and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is often used in skincare and makeup products such as primers, foundations, lotions, and creams. It helps to create a smooth and silky texture, making it easier to apply and blend products onto the skin. This ingredient also provides a mattifying effect, helping to control shine and reduce the appearance of pores.

3. Usage Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dimethiconevinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer

- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dimethiconevinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer

- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dimethicone-vinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer/

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Methylpropanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Methylpropanediol:

Methylpropanediol is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and skin conditioning agent. It is also known as 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and is derived from renewable resources.

2. Use:

Methylpropanediol is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and feel of the product. It can also enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin, making it an effective carrier for active ingredients. Additionally, it can help to hydrate the skin and prevent moisture loss, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and creams.

3. Usage Methylpropanediol:

When using products containing methylpropanediol, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing methylpropanediol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, J. B. (2018). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. International journal of toxicology, 37(3), 219-229.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Safety assessment of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 29(2), 120S-129S.

- European Commission. (2002). Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products intended for consumers concerning 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Potassium Phosphate

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Potassium Phosphate:

Potassium Phosphate is a salt compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a buffering agent to help regulate the pH of a product. It is made up of potassium and phosphate ions, which work together to maintain the stability and effectiveness of various cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Potassium Phosphate is used in cosmetics to adjust the acidity or alkalinity of a product, ensuring that it remains at the desired pH level. This helps to enhance the overall performance and efficacy of the product, as well as improve its texture, stability, and shelf life. Additionally, Potassium Phosphate can also act as a moisturizing agent and emulsifier in certain cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Potassium Phosphate:

When using Potassium Phosphate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and dosage specified by the manufacturer. Overuse of Potassium Phosphate can potentially lead to skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing Potassium Phosphate to determine if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Gavrilovic, L. (2017). The use of phosphates in cosmetics. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 132(4), 36-41.

- Karaman, M., et al. (2019). Potassium Phosphate as a pH regulator in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 123-131.

- Sato, T., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of Potassium Phosphate in cosmetic products. Journal of Applied Toxicology, 40(5), 689-697.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Polyquaternium 80

Function: Emulsifying, Hair Conditioning, Cleansing

1. Definition Polyquaternium 80:

Polyquaternium-80 is a type of quaternary ammonium compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emulsifier. It is a water-soluble polymer that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Polyquaternium-80 is primarily used in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It helps to reduce static electricity, improve combability, and enhance the overall appearance of the hair. Additionally, it can also be found in skin care products such as moisturizers and lotions, where it helps to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin.

3. Usage Polyquaternium 80:

When using products containing Polyquaternium-80, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Polyquaternium-80 to ensure compatibility with your skin or hair.

4. References:

- "Polyquaternium-80." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyquaternium-80.

- "Polyquaternium-80." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polyquaternium-80/.

- "Polyquaternium-80." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyquaternium-80.

Didecyldimonium Chloride

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Didecyldimonium Chloride:

Didecyldimonium Chloride is a type of quaternary ammonium compound commonly used in cosmetics as a surfactant and antimicrobial agent. It is a disinfectant that is effective against a wide range of bacteria, fungi, and viruses.

2. Use:

Didecyldimonium Chloride is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial growth and contamination in various personal care products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and creams. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Didecyldimonium Chloride:

When using products containing Didecyldimonium Chloride, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in small concentrations and should not be ingested or applied to broken or irritated skin. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes, and to wash hands thoroughly after handling products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Didecyldimonium Chloride." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/didecyldimonium-chloride/.

- "Safety Assessment of Didecyldimonium Chloride as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/didecyldimonium_chloride.pdf.

- "Didecyldimonium Chloride." Environmental Working Group, www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/702323-didecyldimonium-chloride/.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate:

Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the oxidation of ingredients and extend the shelf life of products.

2. Use:

Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is primarily used in skincare and hair care products as an antioxidant to protect against free radicals and environmental stressors. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, sunscreens, and hair conditioners to maintain the efficacy of active ingredients and improve the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate:

When using products containing Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2010). Final report on the safety assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(3), 192S-207S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Pentaerythrityl Tetra Di T Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/pentaerythrityl-tetra-di-t-butyl-hydroxyhydrocinnamate

- European Commission. (2019). CosIng - Cosmetics Ingredients Database. Retrieved from https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.simple&search=1&btnSubmit=Submit&searchText=pentaerythrityl+tetra+di+t+butyl+hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol

Function: Uv Absorber

1. Definition Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol:

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol, also known as BDC, is a UV absorber and antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV radiation and prevent premature aging caused by sun exposure.

2. Use:

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and anti-aging creams. It is added to formulations to enhance the product's ability to block harmful UV rays and to prevent damage to the skin.

3. Usage Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol:

When using products containing Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to apply sunscreen with BDC at least 15 minutes before sun exposure and to reapply every 2 hours, or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also advisable to avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours, and to wear protective clothing and accessories in addition to using sunscreen.

4. References:

- Kaur, H., & Kumar, S. (2018). Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 389-392). CRC Press.

- Gao, W., & Chen, C. (2019). Recent Advances in the Applications of UV Absorbers in Sunscreen Products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 85-95.

- Moyal, D. D. (2017). Sunscreens: UV Filters to Protect the Skin. In Textbook of Aging Skin (pp. 1-15). Springer.

Alcohol

Other name: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol:

Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.

2. Use:

Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.

3. Usage Alcohol:

While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Sodium Phytate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Sodium Phytate:

Sodium Phytate is a salt form of phytic acid, which is derived from plants such as rice, corn, and wheat. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, which helps to stabilize formulas and improve the efficacy of other ingredients.

2. Use:

Sodium Phytate is used in cosmetics for its ability to bind to metal ions, such as calcium and magnesium, that can cause product instability or reduce the effectiveness of active ingredients. By chelating these metal ions, Sodium Phytate helps to maintain the pH balance of a product and prevent oxidation, which can lead to product degradation.

3. Usage Sodium Phytate:

Sodium Phytate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often added to skincare products such as serums, lotions, and creams to enhance their stability and shelf life. When using products containing Sodium Phytate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid excessive use to prevent potential skin irritation.

4. References:

- "Phytic Acid and Its Applications in Cosmetics" by J. M. M. M. Santos, et al. (2019)

- "Chelating Agents in Cosmetics" by R. P. Singh, et al. (2017)

- "Formulating with Chelating Agents" by A. B. Smith, et al. (2015)

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Other name: Sodium Acid Citrate

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating

1. Definition Sodium Citrate:

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits. It is commonly used as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, emulsifier, and preservative in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Sodium Citrate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas, adjust the pH level of products, and enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage Sodium Citrate:

When using products containing Sodium Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-issues-cosmetic-products/sodium-citrate-in-cosmetics/.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Other name: Sodium Dehydro-acetate

Function: Preservative

1. Definition Sodium Dehydroacetate:

Sodium Dehydroacetate is a synthetic compound commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a white, odorless powder that is water-soluble and has antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Dehydroacetate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. It helps extend the shelf life of products and maintain their quality by inhibiting microbial contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Dehydroacetate:

When using products containing Sodium Dehydroacetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for proper application. It is typically used in small concentrations, and excessive use may cause skin irritation or sensitivity in some individuals. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2004). Final report on the safety assessment of dehydroacetic acid. International Journal of Toxicology, 23(Suppl 1), 1-19.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2012). Safety assessment of dehydroacetic acid and its salts as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6), 5S-20S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2015). Safety Assessment of Dehydroacetic Acid and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/resource/safety-assessment-of-dehydroacetic-acid-and-its-salts-as-used-in-cosmetics/