Knours. Sweet Enough Rescue Mask

Knours

INGREDIENTS

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Panthenol

Carbomer

Propanediol

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Allantoin

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Niacinamide

Betaine

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xylitol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tromethamine

Adenosine

Ceramide 3

Honey Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Erythritol

Rosa Centifolia (Cabbage Rose) Flower Water

Polygonum Cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed) Root Extract

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Quick product notes

(Click on icon for more information)

Quick product notes serve as a convenient method to determine if a product aligns with the preferences of skincare enthusiasts by being free from commonly avoided ingredients. These preferences arise due to various factors, including personal experiences, sensitivities, health considerations, and more.

Paraben free

Sulfate free

Alcohol free

Silicone free

Fungal Acne Safe

EU Allergent Free

Key Ingredients

Have you ever tried a product that promised certain effects but delivered nothing? It might have lacked key ingredients necessary for those promised results. Despite marketing claims, if a product lacks beneficial components, its efficacy is questionable.

We help you identify key ingredients known for effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV protection, and anti-aging, assisting you in making smarter skincare choices. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of key ingredients can vary; while some are well-proven, others have mixed research behind them.

Anti Aging from (3) Ingredient:

Adenosine Ceramide 3 Niacinamide

Promotes Wound Healing from (2) Ingredient:

Panthenol Centella Asiatica Extract

Brightening from (2) Ingredient:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Niacinamide

Acne fighting from (1) Ingredient:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click the arrows next to Skin Type! Green = Good & Red = Bad

Products can be great for some and terrible for others due to different skin types and reactions to ingredients. We've identified ingredients suitable for dry, oily, and sensitive skin types.

Dry skin

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Low Risk

Panthenol

Low Risk

Glycerin

Low Risk

Oily Skin

Allantoin

Low Risk

Sensitive skin

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Low Risk

Allantoin

Low Risk

Oil skin

None

Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Health Ratings)

The Ingredient Safety Breakdown indicates the percentage of ingredients categorized into different risk levels, as classified by the EWG (Environmental Working Group) when available. With numerous cosmetic ingredients in existence, the EWG is one of the few organizations globally that assigns ratings to many commonly used ingredients, making it a valuable reference point.

Low risk

Moderate risk

High risk

Unknown

96%

INGREDIENT LIST

(Display the first 5 ingredients from a list of 28 ingredient)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1 2		Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Humectant, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Tonic, Astringent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous)
2	B	Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive)	Good for sensitive skin Good for dry skin
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent)
1	A	Hydroxyethylcellulose (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1		Hydroxyacetophenone (Antioxidant)
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1		Xylitol (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1 2	A	Tromethamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Honey Extract (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)
1		Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract (Humectant, Astringent, Soothing)
1		Erythritol (Humectant, Moisturising)
1		Rosa Centifolia (Cabbage Rose) Flower Water (Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
1		Polygonum Cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed) Root Extract (Antioxidant)
1		Diethoxyethyl Succinate (Solvent)

INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Knours. Sweet Enough Rescue Mask

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Humectant, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Tonic, Astringent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, commonly known as green tea. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Green tea extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products. Additionally, green tea extract can help soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract:

Green tea extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing green tea extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to patch test products containing green tea extract before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Hyun, C. G., & Shin, S. (2009). Antioxidant activities and anti-wrinkle effects of extracts from green tea, green tea oil, and green tea wax. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 86(6), 601-608.

- Katiyar, S. K., Ahmad, N., & Mukhtar, H. (2000). Green tea and skin. Archives of Dermatology, 136(8), 989-994.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Occlusive

1. Definition Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is an extract derived from the flowers of the Chamomilla Recutita plant, also known as German chamomile. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract is used in skincare products for its calming and anti-irritant properties. It is often included in formulations designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, chamomile extract is known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract:

Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used at a concentration of 0.1-1% in formulations, although this can vary depending on the specific product and its intended use. When using products containing chamomile extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae family (such as ragweed or marigolds) should exercise caution when using products with chamomile extract.

4. References:

- Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Report. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2010.377.

- Reuter J, Huyke C, Casetti F, Theek C, Frank U, Augustin M. Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2008 May;6(5):428-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1610-0387.2008.06605.x.

- Keane KM, Calton EK, Cruzat VF, Soares MJ, Newsholme P. The impact of cryopreservation on human peripheral blood leucocyte bioenergetics. Clin Sci (Lond). 2015 Apr;128(8):723-33. doi: 10.1042/CS20140521.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Other name: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.

- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Other name: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.

3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.

4. References:

- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)

- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Xylitol

Other name: D-Xylitol

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Xylitol:

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in food products. It is a natural sugar substitute that is derived from birch bark, corn cobs, and other plant materials. Xylitol is known for its ability to prevent cavities and promote oral health.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, xylitol is used for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Xylitol helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin types. Additionally, xylitol has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Xylitol:

When using cosmetics containing xylitol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Xylitol is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to xylitol, so it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Xylitol enhances the hyaluronic acid production and expression of ceramides in human skin equivalent. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 377-382.

- Suresh, S., & Pradeep, S. (2014). Xylitol in preventing dental caries: A systematic review and meta-analyses. Journal of Natural Science, Biology, and Medicine, 5(1), 15-25.

- Lee, J. H., Park, Y. D., Jeong, S. H., & Do, J. H. (2017). Xylitol inhibits inflammatory cytokine expression induced by lipopolysaccharide from Porphyromonas gingivalis. Clinical Oral Investigations, 21(8), 2443-2450.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Other name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate; Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate; K2

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.

- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Honey Extract

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

1. Definition Honey Extract:

Honey extract is a concentrated form of honey that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, soothing, and antibacterial properties. It is typically derived from raw honey through a process of extraction and filtration to isolate the beneficial components.

2. Use:

Honey extract is a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, masks, and serums due to its ability to hydrate the skin, promote healing, and reduce inflammation. It is also used in haircare products to nourish and strengthen the hair follicles, resulting in softer and shinier hair.

3. Usage Honey Extract:

When using products containing honey extract, it is important to perform a patch test on a small area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with a known allergy to honey should avoid using products with honey extract. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Boukhatem, M.N., Ferhat, M.A., Kameli, A., Saidi, F., & Kebir, H.T. (2014). Lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus) essential oil as a potent anti-inflammatory and antifungal drugs. Libyan Journal of Medicine, 9(1), 25431.

- Burlando, B., & Cornara, L. (2013). Honey in dermatology and skin care: a review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(4), 306-313.

- Al-Waili, N. S. (2001). Therapeutic and prophylactic effects of crude honey on chronic seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. European Journal of Medical Research, 6(7), 306-308.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Function: Humectant, Astringent, Soothing

1. Definition Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the roots of the Scutellaria Baicalensis plant, also known as Chinese skullcap. This extract is rich in flavonoids, particularly baicalin and baicalein, which are known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its various benefits. It is known to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. This extract is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help soothe irritation and calm redness.

3. Usage Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract:

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. When using products containing this extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects of Scutellaria baicalensis root extract in human keratinocytes. Biomed Res Int. 2019; 2019: 5390806.

- Lin, L. T., Liu, L. T., Chiang, L. C., Lin, C. C., In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytother Res. 2002; 16(5): 440-444.

- Li, B. Q., Fu, T., Dongyan, Y., Mikovits, J. A., Ruscetti, F. W., Wang, J. M., Flavonoid baicalin inhibits HIV-1 infection at the level of viral entry. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2000; 276(2): 534-538.

Erythritol

Function: Humectant, Moisturising

1. Definition Erythritol:

Erythritol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in various food and beverage products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is derived from corn through a fermentation process.

2. Use:

Erythritol is often used in cosmetics as a humectant and moisturizing agent. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, erythritol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Erythritol:

When using cosmetics containing erythritol, it is important to patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to larger areas. This can help to determine if you have any sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results. While erythritol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Mäkinen, K. K. (2011). Gastrointestinal Disturbances Associated with the Consumption of Sugar Alcohols with Special Consideration of Xylitol: Scientific Review and Instructions for Dentists and Other Health-Care Professionals. International Journal of Dentistry, 2011, 1-10.

- Kawanishi, K., & Kato, N. (2018). Erythritol Production and Applications. In Microbial Production of Food Ingredients, Enzymes and Nutraceuticals (pp. 235-250). Woodhead Publishing.

- Gullapalli, J., & Gupta, V. (2014). Erythritol: A New Sweetener. International Journal of Pharma and Bio Sciences, 5(2), B-374-B-381.

Rosa Centifolia (Cabbage Rose) Flower Water

Function: Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

1. Definition Rosa Centifolia (Cabbage Rose) Flower Water:

Rosa Centifolia (Cabbage Rose) Flower Water is a natural floral water obtained through the steam distillation of cabbage rose petals. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Rosa Centifolia Flower Water is commonly used in cosmetics as a toner, mist, or facial spray to help hydrate and refresh the skin. It can also be found in cleansers, moisturizers, and masks to provide a calming and soothing effect on the skin.

3. Usage Rosa Centifolia (Cabbage Rose) Flower Water:

To use Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, simply spritz it onto clean skin or apply it with a cotton pad after cleansing. It can also be used throughout the day to refresh and hydrate the skin, or as a setting spray over makeup for a dewy finish. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product to avoid potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2012). Natural ingredients for cosmetics. Royal Society of Chemistry.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Park, M. K., & Bae, J. H. (2017). Rose water inhibits proliferation of human ovarian cancer cells by inducing apoptosis and cell cycle arrest. Oncology Reports, 37(4), 2279-2286.

Polygonum Cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed) Root Extract

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Polygonum Cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed) Root Extract:

Polygonum Cuspidatum, also known as Japanese Knotweed, is a plant native to East Asia that has been used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine. The root extract of this plant is rich in resveratrol, a potent antioxidant known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Japanese Knotweed root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often included in anti-aging products to help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as to brighten and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Polygonum Cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed) Root Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Japanese Knotweed root extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Park, J. Y., Choi, P., Kim, T., Lee, S. H., & Yang, H. (2011). Anti-inflammatory effects of Polygonum cuspidatum in UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 49(4), 799-806.

- Sun, Z., Park, S. Y., Hwang, E., Zhang, M., Seo, S. A., Lin, P., ... & Yi, T. H. (2014). Anti-wrinkle effects of a water extract of Polygonum cuspidatum in hairless mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 153(2), 344-351.

- Kwon, H. S., Park, J. H., Kim, D. H., Kim, Y. H., & Park, J. H. (2015). Anti-wrinkle effect of Polygonum cuspidatum extract in the skin of hairless mice. Journal of Korean Society of Cosmetology, 21(2), 243-250.

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Diethoxyethyl Succinate:

Diethoxyethyl Succinate is a synthetic compound commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent. It is derived from succinic acid and ethyl alcohol, and it is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Diethoxyethyl Succinate is primarily used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Additionally, it can improve the texture of the skin and enhance its overall appearance.

3. Usage Diethoxyethyl Succinate:

When using products containing Diethoxyethyl Succinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the body. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Kwon, S. H., Lee, J. H., Kim, J. E., & Cho, K. H. (2009). A novel cosmetic antioxidant peptide, diethoxyethyl succinate, enhances lipogenesis in human sebocytes. International journal of cosmetic science, 31(6), 441-446.

- Liao, S., Zhang, J., Zhou, J., & Zhang, J. (2018). Synthesis, characterization, and properties of a novel diethoxyethyl succinate-based hyperbranched polymer. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 135(37), 46685.

- Kim, J. H., Lee, J. H., & Kwon, S. H. (2015). Diethoxyethyl succinate inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 14(4), 314-320.