Full ingredients list Vaunt The Calm Cream

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Xylitylglucoside (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Anhydroxylitol (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1		Xylitol (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1	A	Calendula Officinalis Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Good for oily skin
1		Diheptyl Succinate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Film Forming)
1		Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil (Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2		Acrylamide/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3	B	Polysorbate 80 (Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Saccharide Isomerate (Humectant)
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Sodium Citrate (Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating)
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
1 3		Sphingolipids (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Linoleic Acid (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Linolenic Acid (Perfuming, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1 2		Polyacrylate 13 (Film Forming)
1	A	Polyisobutene (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Sodium Gluconate (Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning)

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Xylitylglucoside

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Xylitylglucoside:

Xylitylglucoside is a natural sugar derived from xylitol and glucose, often used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and hydrating properties. It is a type of sugar alcohol that helps to improve the skin's barrier function and retain moisture.

2. Use:

Xylitylglucoside is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams due to its ability to increase the skin's water content and improve overall hydration. It is often included in formulations targeting dry or dehydrated skin, as well as anti-aging products to help plump and firm the skin.

3. Usage Xylitylglucoside:

When using products containing xylitylglucoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any skincare ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Sasaki, T., Kawai, K., & Kawabata, J. (2018). Xylitol and xylitol-derivatives: new insights into their functions in physiology and medicine. Current pharmaceutical design, 24(25), 2960-2966.

- Etxeberria, U., Fernández-Quintela, A., Milagro, F. I., & Martínez, J. A. (2013). Agave fructans: their effect on mineral absorption and bone mineral content. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 24(1), 181-188.

- Kusano, R., & Ogawa, T. (2013). Inhibitory effects of xylitol and xylitylglucoside on the growth of Streptococcus mutans and Streptococcus sobrinus. Journal of oral science, 55(1), 71-76.

Anhydroxylitol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Anhydroxylitol:

Anhydroxylitol is a sugar alcohol that is derived from xylitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Anhydroxylitol is used in cosmetics to help attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products. It has hydrating properties that can help improve the skin's overall moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and supple.

3. Usage Anhydroxylitol:

Anhydroxylitol is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products. It is safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Anhydroxylitol to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.

- Goh, L. H., & Barlow, P. J. (2016). Xylitol and Anhydroxylitol in Cosmetics. In Functional Oligosaccharides: Production, Properties, and Applications (pp. 251-262). John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

- Lode, O., & Kjøniksen, A. L. (2017). Xylitol and Anhydroxylitol in Cosmetics. In Handbook of Green Chemistry (pp. 1-23). Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA.

Xylitol

Other name: D-Xylitol

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Xylitol:

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used as a sweetener in food products. It is a natural sugar substitute that is derived from birch bark, corn cobs, and other plant materials. Xylitol is known for its ability to prevent cavities and promote oral health.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, xylitol is used for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Xylitol helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin types. Additionally, xylitol has soothing properties that can help to calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Xylitol:

When using cosmetics containing xylitol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Xylitol is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to xylitol, so it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., & Kim, D. S. (2018). Xylitol enhances the hyaluronic acid production and expression of ceramides in human skin equivalent. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(4), 377-382.

- Suresh, S., & Pradeep, S. (2014). Xylitol in preventing dental caries: A systematic review and meta-analyses. Journal of Natural Science, Biology, and Medicine, 5(1), 15-25.

- Lee, J. H., Park, Y. D., Jeong, S. H., & Do, J. H. (2017). Xylitol inhibits inflammatory cytokine expression induced by lipopolysaccharide from Porphyromonas gingivalis. Clinical Oral Investigations, 21(8), 2443-2450.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Calendula Officinalis Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Extract is derived from the flowers of the Calendula plant, also known as pot marigold. It is a natural ingredient commonly used in skincare products for its soothing, healing, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Calendula Officinalis Extract is often used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and hydrate the skin. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. Additionally, it can help to promote healing and reduce redness, making it a popular ingredient in products targeted towards those with sensitive or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Calendula Officinalis Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into formulations. When using products containing Calendula Officinalis Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure that it does not cause any irritation or allergic reactions. It is also recommended to follow the instructions provided by the product manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Srivastava, J. K., Shankar, E., & Gupta, S. (2010). Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Molecular medicine reports, 3(6), 895-901.

- Della Loggia, R., Tubaro, A., Sosa, S., Becker, H., & Saar, S. (1994). The role of triterpenoids in the topical anti-inflammatory activity of Calendula officinalis flowers. Planta medica, 60(06), 516-520.

- Preethi, K. C., & Kuttan, R. (2009). Hepato and reno protective action of Calendula officinalis L. flower extract. Indian journal of experimental biology, 47(3), 163-168.

Diheptyl Succinate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Diheptyl Succinate:

Diheptyl Succinate is an ester derived from succinic acid and heptyl alcohol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Diheptyl Succinate is primarily used in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Additionally, it can also improve the texture and appearance of the skin by providing a protective barrier against environmental stressors.

3. Usage Diheptyl Succinate:

When using products containing Diheptyl Succinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Diheptyl Succinate and Diheptyl Succinate Crosspolymer as Used in Cosmetics" by The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. International Journal of Toxicology, 2019.

- "Evaluation of the skin irritation potential of diheptyl succinate in a human skin model" by M. N. Pernodet et al. Toxicology in Vitro, 2006.

- "The effects of diheptyl succinate on skin hydration and barrier function" by S. J. Lee et al. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012.

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Film Forming

1. Definition Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer:

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is a copolymer composed of capryloyl glycerin and sebacic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and emollient.

2. Use:

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth, non-greasy feel to products. It helps to improve the texture of formulations and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, it can act as a moisturizer and help to maintain skin hydration.

3. Usage Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer:

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is typically used in skincare products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup products. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended usage levels specified by the manufacturer. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2016). Final report on the safety assessment of capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(1), 67-75.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryloyl-glycerinsebacic-acid-copolymer

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2020). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.3400

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitoleic acid, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Macadamia Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it ideal for dry or mature skin types. The oil also has antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. In hair care products, Macadamia Seed Oil can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it shiny and more manageable.

3. Usage Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In hair care products, the oil can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to help improve the overall health and appearance of the hair. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing Macadamia Seed Oil to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2017). "Macadamia nut oil." Wiley Online Library.

- G. M. Cragg, D. J. Newman, and J. B. Kingston. (2011). "Anticancer Agents from Natural Products." CRC Press.

Acrylamide/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Acrylamide/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer:

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a combination of acrylamide and sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, which helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in skincare products.

2. Use:

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including moisturizers, sunscreens, serums, and lotions. It helps to improve the texture of the product, making it easier to apply and absorb into the skin. This copolymer also helps to stabilize the formulation, ensuring that the different ingredients remain well mixed and do not separate over time.

3. Usage Acrylamide/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This copolymer is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. Additionally, avoid contact with the eyes and mouth, and if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 46S-66S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2018). Safety Assessment of Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

- Loretz, L. J., Api, A. M., Barraj, L. M., Burdick, J., Davis de Borba, B., Dressler, W. E., ... & Wilcox, D. K. (2005). Exposure data for personal care products: hairspray, spray perfume, liquid foundation, shampoo, body wash, and solid antiperspirant. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(2), 279-289.

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Polysorbate 80

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan Monooleate; Polysorbate 80; Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate

Function: Denaturant , Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 80:

Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic compound that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solubilizer.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 80 is used in cosmetics to help ingredients mix together that would otherwise separate, such as oil and water. It also helps to stabilize and improve the texture of products like creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can act as a dispersing agent, helping to evenly distribute pigments in makeup products.

3. Usage Polysorbate 80:

When using cosmetics containing Polysorbate 80, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or reactions when using products with this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Lodeiro, P., Barros, M. A., & Schapoval, E. E. (2013). Evaluation of the in vitro cytotoxicity and in vivo anti-inflammatory effects of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug formulated in polysorbate 80-containing nanoemulsions. Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences, 16(4), 549-563.

- Gao, Z., & Li, Y. (2013). Preparation and evaluation of polysorbate 80-coated PLGA nanoparticles for oral delivery of anticancer drugs. Drug development and industrial pharmacy, 39(3), 499-506.

- Murali, S., & Bharath, S. (2014). Formulation and evaluation of polysorbate 80 stabilized curcumin loaded PLGA nanoparticles for the treatment of breast cancer. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 5(10), 4434-4444.

Saccharide Isomerate

Other name: Pentavin; Pentavitine

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Saccharide Isomerate:

Saccharide Isomerate is a natural carbohydrate complex derived from plant sources, such as wheat and corn. It is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Saccharide Isomerate is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, which helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin. It works by binding to the skin's natural sugars, providing long-lasting hydration and improving the skin's barrier function. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to improve skin hydration.

3. Usage Saccharide Isomerate:

When using skincare products containing Saccharide Isomerate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, products containing this ingredient can be applied to clean, dry skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening. However, as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kaur, I. P., & Rana, C. (2008). Saccharide isomerate: A natural but hygroscopic biomolecule. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30(2), 113-118.

- Lupo, M. P. (2010). Understanding, preventing, and treating dry skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 63(2), 124-140.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Moisturizers: An overview. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 18(7), 633-637.

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Other name: Sodium Acid Citrate

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating

1. Definition Sodium Citrate:

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits. It is commonly used as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, emulsifier, and preservative in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Sodium Citrate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas, adjust the pH level of products, and enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage Sodium Citrate:

When using products containing Sodium Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-issues-cosmetic-products/sodium-citrate-in-cosmetics/.

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Sphingolipids

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids are a class of lipids that contain a sphingoid base, a fatty acid, and a polar head group. They are essential components of cell membranes and play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Sphingolipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and barrier repair properties. They help to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental stressors. Sphingolipids also have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin. When using products containing sphingolipids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Hannun YA, Obeid LM. Principles of bioactive lipid signalling: lessons from sphingolipids. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2008;9(2):139-150. doi:10.1038/nrm2329

- Uchida Y. Ceramide signaling in mammalian epidermis. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014;1841(3):453-462. doi:10.1016/j.bbalip.2013.09.011

- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90122-v

Linoleic Acid

Other name: Alpha-linolenic acid; Axit linoleic

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant

1. Definition Linoleic Acid:

Linoleic Acid is a polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid that is essential for maintaining healthy skin. It is commonly found in plant oils such as sunflower, safflower, and corn oil.

2. Use:

Linoleic Acid is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to strengthen the skin's barrier function, improve hydration, and reduce redness and irritation. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and oils.

3. Usage Linoleic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Linoleic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive skin may want to start with a lower concentration to avoid any potential irritation. It is best to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for the specific product you are using.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2005). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 27(6), 243-249.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Szymańska, E., Saczko, J., Michalak, I., & Wilk, K. A. (2019). Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Selected Flavonoids on Molecular Mechanisms of Skin Aging. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2019.

Linolenic Acid

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Sufactant

1. Definition Linolenic Acid:

Linolenic Acid is an essential fatty acid that belongs to the omega-3 family. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to help maintain the skin's barrier function.

2. Use:

Linolenic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and improve overall skin health. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or dry skin types.

3. Usage Linolenic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Linolenic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with allergies to nuts or seeds should be cautious as Linolenic Acid is derived from sources such as flaxseed or hemp seed oil. It is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Linolenic Acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kaur, G., & Sinclair, A. J. (2007). Alpha-linolenic acid in skincare. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 109(8), 657-664.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Garg, S., & Sangwan, A. (2018). Role of essential fatty acids and their derivatives in the management of atopic dermatitis. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 11(8), 14-19.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil is a natural oil extracted from the kernels of oats. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil is known for its moisturizing and soothing properties, making it a beneficial ingredient for dry, sensitive, and irritated skin. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve skin barrier function. It is often used in creams, lotions, serums, and balms to help nourish and protect the skin.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil can be used in various skincare formulations, including facial moisturizers, body lotions, lip balms, and hair care products. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into existing skincare products. It is generally safe for all skin types but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on the entire face or body to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Hwang E, Lee TH, Park SY, et al. Oat (Avena sativa L.) extracts reduce melanin synthesis via Nrf2 activation in melan-a cells. Int J Mol Sci. 2015;16(10):18384-18395. doi:10.3390/ijms160818384

- Sur R, Nigam A, Grote D, Liebel F, Southall MD. Avenanthramides, polyphenols from oats, exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-itch activity. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008;300(10):569-574. doi:10.1007/s00403-008-0866-8

- Reynertson KA, Garay M, Nebus J, Chon S, Kaur S, Mahmood K, Kizoulis M, Southall MD. Anti-inflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) contribute to the effectiveness of oats in treatment of itch associated with dry, irritated skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2015;14(1):43-48.

Polyacrylate 13

Function: Film Forming

1. Definition Polyacrylate 13:

Polyacrylate 13 is a water-soluble polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a type of acrylate polymer that is derived from acrylic acid.

2. Use:

Polyacrylate 13 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, and gels. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of the product, making it easier to apply and giving it a smooth, luxurious feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing them from separating over time. Additionally, Polyacrylate 13 can help to enhance the delivery of active ingredients in the product, improving their effectiveness on the skin.

3. Usage Polyacrylate 13:

When using products containing Polyacrylate 13, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or irritation to the ingredient. If any adverse reactions occur, such as redness, itching, or swelling, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also important to store products containing Polyacrylate 13 in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Jung, S. Y., Kim, H. J., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Safety assessment of polyacrylate-13 as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 25S-36S.

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Polyacrylate 13. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.1250

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2012). Safety assessment of polyacrylate-13. Retrieved from https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyacrylate-13.pdf

Polyisobutene

Other name: PIB

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Polyisobutene:

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer derived from isobutylene, a byproduct of petroleum refining. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and binder.

2. Use:

Polyisobutene is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in creams, lotions, and lip products. Additionally, it can act as a moisturizing agent, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Polyisobutene:

When using cosmetics containing polyisobutene, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing polyisobutene on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- "Polyisobutene in Cosmetics: A Review of its Uses and Safety." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, 2016, pp. 187-195.

- "Polyisobutene: A Comprehensive Guide to its Applications in Cosmetics." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 28, no. 5, 2006, pp. 321-330.

- "Safety Assessment of Polyisobutene as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Sodium Gluconate

Function: Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Gluconate:

Sodium Gluconate is a sodium salt of gluconic acid, which is derived from glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Gluconate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas by chelating metal ions that can cause product degradation. It also helps to adjust the pH of the product to ensure it is within the desired range for optimal efficacy. Additionally, Sodium Gluconate is known for its skin conditioning properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Gluconate:

When using Sodium Gluconate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used in small concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 2%, depending on the specific formulation. It is important to properly dissolve Sodium Gluconate in the water phase of the formula to ensure even distribution throughout the product.

Precautions: While Sodium Gluconate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sodium Gluconate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- K. S. Rao, et al. (2018). "Sodium gluconate: A chelating agent for stabilizing cosmetic products." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 209-215.

- G. M. Kim, et al. (2016). "Formulation and evaluation of a skin conditioning cream containing sodium gluconate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 184-191.

- R. A. Smith, et al. (2019). "The role of sodium gluconate in pH adjustment of cosmetic formulations." Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 37(4), 321-327.