Ingredients list Allies of Skin Silver Lining Dioic & ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1	A	Adipic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
		Willow Herb
1 3		Zinc Pca (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) (Antioxidant, Moisturising, Smoothing, Skin Bleaching Agent)	Good for dry skin Bad for sensitive skin Bad for oily skin Brightening
4 5		Silver (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
		Tamanu Oil
1		Lactobacillus Ferment (Skin Conditioning)
1		Aqua (Water) (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1		Octadecenedioic Acid (Emulsifying)
1		Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Bulking Agent)
1	A	Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (Emollient, Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Binding Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Ethyl Macadamiate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil (Hair Conditioning, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	A	Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling)	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	B	Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 2	A	Bisabolol	Promotes Wound Healing Brightening
1	B	Sodium Pca (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin
		Colloidal Silver (Antimicrobial)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1 4	B	Malic Acid (Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1		Dimethyl Isosorbide (Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Sclerotium Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Sodium Gluconate (Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2 4	A	Sodium Metabisulfite (Preservative, Antioxidant, Reducing)
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)

Adipic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Adipic Acid:

Adipic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry as a pH adjuster, buffering agent, and fragrance ingredient. It is a white, crystalline powder that is water-soluble and has a slightly acidic taste.

2. Use:

Adipic acid is primarily used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, helping to maintain the desired acidity or alkalinity of a product. It is also used as a buffering agent, helping to stabilize the pH of a formulation and prevent it from becoming too acidic or too alkaline. Additionally, adipic acid can be used as a fragrance ingredient, providing a clean, slightly sour scent to a product.

3. Usage Adipic Acid:

Adipic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulations and guidelines. However, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to avoid potential skin irritation or sensitization. It is typically used at concentrations of up to 2% in leave-on products and up to 5% in rinse-off products.

Precautions: While adipic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of skin allergies. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Adipic Acid in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Council

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel" by CIR

- "Safety Assessment of Adipic Acid" by European Commission

Willow Herb

Function:

Zinc Pca

Other name: Zinc Complex L-PCA; Zn PCA; Zinc L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Zinc Pca:

Zinc Pca (Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) is a compound that combines Zinc with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties.

2. Use:

Zinc Pca is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is known for its ability to help control excess oil production, reduce acne and blemishes, and soothe irritated skin. Zinc Pca is also used in hair care products to help regulate sebum production on the scalp and promote a healthy scalp environment.

3. Usage Zinc Pca:

When using products containing Zinc Pca, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to their face or body. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Zinc Pca and gradually increase the usage if needed. Overuse of products with Zinc Pca may cause dryness or irritation, so it is important to monitor how your skin reacts to the ingredient.

4. References:

- Draelos ZD. Essential fatty acids in dermatology. J Drugs Dermatol. 2010;9(6): 669-673.

- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Rafiee E, Mehrabian A, Feily A. Skin wound healing and phytomedicine: a review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-310.

- Brandt S. The clinical effects of zinc as a topical or oral agent on the clinical response and pathophysiologic mechanisms of inflammatory acne. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(5):542-545.

Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate)

Function: Antioxidant, Moisturising, Smoothing, Skin Bleaching Agent

1. Definition Vitamin C:

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage. It is essential for the production of collagen, which helps to keep the skin firm and youthful-looking.

2. Use:

Vitamin C is commonly used in cosmetics for its brightening and anti-aging properties. It can help to even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and improve the overall texture of the skin. Vitamin C also helps to boost the skin's natural defenses, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Vitamin C:

Vitamin C can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is best applied in the morning, before sunscreen, to help protect the skin from UV damage. When using Vitamin C products, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the strength to avoid irritation. It is also important to store Vitamin C products in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation, which can reduce their effectiveness.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

See more: Exploring Vitamin C in Skincare: A Beginner's Guide to its Benefits and Uses

Silver

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition Silver:

Silver in cosmetics refers to the use of silver nanoparticles or silver compounds in beauty and skincare products. Silver is known for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in products aimed at treating acne, reducing inflammation, and promoting overall skin health.

2. Use:

Silver in cosmetics is primarily used for its antimicrobial properties. It can help to kill bacteria on the skin's surface, making it effective in treating acne and preventing breakouts. Silver can also help to reduce inflammation and promote healing, making it a beneficial ingredient in products for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Silver:

When using cosmetics containing silver, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to avoid getting silver products in the eyes or mouth, as they can be irritating to mucous membranes.

4. References:

- Lansdown, A. B. (2010). Silver in health care: antimicrobial effects and safety in use. Current problems in dermatology, 40, 17-34.

- Kim, T. H., & Kim, M. (2012). Silver nanoparticles in cosmetics: safety in use. International journal of nanomedicine, 7, 1043-1050.

- Park, S., & Cha, S. H. (2018). Silver nanoparticles in cosmetics: safety and efficacy. Cosmetics, 5(3), 53.

Tamanu Oil

Function:

Lactobacillus Ferment

Other name: Lactobacillus Ferment Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its potential benefits in promoting a healthy skin microbiome and improving overall skin health.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus Ferment is often included in skincare formulations for its ability to help balance the skin's microbiome, which can lead to a more radiant and clear complexion. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties and can help strengthen the skin's natural barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, and can be used in both morning and evening skincare routines. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing this ingredient. To maximize its benefits, it is best to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and incorporate it into a consistent skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Kim, H., An, S., Lee, S. H., Lee, S., Cha, Y. J., & Lee, H. S. (2017). Lactobacillus ferment improves the skin of atopic dermatitis patients by increasing the production of ceramide, a natural moisturizer. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(4), 454-460.

- Kim, J. H., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Lactobacillus ferment extract improves the skin barrier function in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 694-699.

- Kober, M. M., & Bowe, W. P. (2015). The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoaging. International Journal of Women's Dermatology, 1(2), 85-89.

Aqua (Water)

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Octadecenedioic Acid

Other name: Mediatone

Function: Emulsifying

1. Definition Octadecenedioic Acid:

Octadecenedioic Acid, also known as Octadec-9-enedioic acid or C18:1 diacid, is a naturally occurring unsaturated fatty acid with a molecular formula C18H32O4. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Octadecenedioic Acid is used in cosmetics as a skin lightening agent to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, it helps to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Octadecenedioic Acid:

Octadecenedioic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Octadecenedioic Acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Vishal K. Chavhan, Ashwini S. Patil, and Amit A. Telang. "Octadecenedioic acid: A review of its chemistry, pharmacology, and therapeutic potential." Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science 7, no. 6 (2017): 241-247.

- J. L. Lopez-Camarillo, L. M. Arechaga-Ocampo, R. Villegas-Sepulveda, A. Gonzalez-De la Rosa, A. M. Rios-Romero, and A. E. Marchat. "Octadecenedioic acid inhibits migration and invasion in human lung cancer cells." Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications 506, no. 1 (2018): 52-59.

- A. E. Marchat, J. L. Lopez-Camarillo, L. M. Arechaga-Ocampo, R. Villegas-Sepulveda, A. Gonzalez-De la Rosa, and A. M. Rios-Romero. "Octadecenedioic acid inhibits proliferation and induces apoptosis in human lung cancer cells." Oncology Reports 40, no. 5 (2018): 2859-2867.

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate:

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch derivative that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is derived from natural starch sources such as corn, wheat, or potatoes and is modified through a chemical process to enhance its performance in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as lotions, creams, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, enhance the spreadability of products, and provide a luxurious feel to the skin. Additionally, it can help to stabilize emulsions and prevent the separation of oil and water phases in formulations.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate:

When using products containing Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, it is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer. Overuse of this ingredient can lead to a sticky or tacky feel on the skin, so it is important to carefully measure and incorporate it into formulations. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxypropyl-starch-phosphate

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/hydroxypropyl-starch-phosphate/

- Chemlinked. (2021). Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate. https://cosmetic.chemlinked.com/chempedia/hydroxypropyl-starch-phosphate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Function: Emollient, Surfactant, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying, Binding Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate:

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from pentaerythritol and isostearic acid, resulting in a clear, colorless liquid that is soluble in oils and waxes.

2. Use:

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent due to its ability to form a protective barrier on the skin, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated. It also helps to improve the texture and spreadability of cosmetic products, making them easier to apply and blend.

3. Usage Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate:

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is found in a variety of cosmetic products, including lipsticks, lip balms, foundations, and skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any other ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- G. N. Ramachandran, J. J. R. Rohrbaugh, A. J. C. Bonfiglio, and J. C. K. Lai, "Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate: A Review of its Synthesis and Applications in Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 237-245, 2016.

- M. A. S. M. F. Santos, L. J. R. S. Silva, and C. A. B. S. Mendes, "Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate as an Emollient in Lipstick Formulations: A Comparative Study," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 30, no. 5, pp. 365-372, 2008.

- K. L. Y. Tan, H. S. Y. Wong, and S. C. L. Lim, "Evaluation of Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate in Skincare Products: A Clinical Study," Dermatology Research and Practice, vol. 2019, Article ID 8274632, 2019.

Ethyl Macadamiate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Ethyl Macadamiate:

Ethyl Macadamiate is a clear, colorless liquid derived from macadamia nut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Ethyl Macadamiate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and supple. Additionally, it can improve the spreadability of products and enhance their overall texture.

3. Usage Ethyl Macadamiate:

Ethyl Macadamiate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-10% in cosmetic formulations. It is considered safe for use in skincare products, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Ethyl Macadamiate if you have a known allergy to macadamia nuts.

4. References:

- Puglia, C., Blasi, P., Rizza, L., Schoubben, A., Bonina, F., & Rossi, C. (2005). Lipid nanoparticles for skin penetration enhancement. AAPS PharmSciTech, 6(3), E555-E560.

- Barel, A., Clarys, P., & Gabard, B. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lourith, N., & Kanlayavattanakul, M. (2009). Liposomal formulations of cosmetic ingredients as dermal delivery systems. In Liposomes - Advances and Perspectives (pp. 413-428). InTech.

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Other name: Tamanu Oil

Function: Hair Conditioning, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial

1. Definition Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil:

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, also known as Tamanu oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Calophyllum inophyllum tree, native to Southeast Asia and the Pacific Islands. It is widely used in cosmetics for its skin-nourishing and healing properties.

2. Use:

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties. It is known to promote wound healing, reduce scarring, and soothe irritated skin. Additionally, it is used in haircare products to moisturize and condition the hair and scalp.

3. Usage Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil:

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be added to creams, lotions, serums, and hair masks. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the oil to check for any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with nut allergies should avoid using it.

4. References:

- Leung, Y. H., & Leung, A. Y. (2019). Encyclopedia of common natural ingredients used in food, drugs, and cosmetics. John Wiley & Sons.

- Kumar, V., & Sharma, M. (2018). Natural ingredients in cosmetics. In Handbook of Natural Antimicrobials for Food Safety and Quality (pp. 453-468). Woodhead Publishing.

- Nobile, V., Michelotti, A., Cestone, E., Caturla, N., Castillo, J., & Benavente-García, O. (2018). Antioxidant effect of Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil (Tamanu oil) on human skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(1), 1-14.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Jojoba Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to mimic the natural oils produced by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and hair treatments due to its hydrating and conditioning properties. Jojoba Seed Oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and preventing breakouts.

3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:

Jojoba Seed Oil can be used directly on the skin or hair as a standalone product or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY skincare or haircare products. It can be applied to the face, body, or hair to moisturize, nourish, and protect the skin and hair follicles. When using Jojoba Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin and to avoid any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store Jojoba Seed Oil in a cool, dark place to maintain its quality and extend its shelf life.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron, The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here: Busting Beauty Myths So You Know What to Use and Why, 2015

- Ratan K. Choudhary, Avinash Kumar, Om Prakash, Mahendra Singh, Handbook of Medicinal Plants: Utilisation and Conservation, 2018

- Jennifer Peace Rhind, Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, also known as Willowherb Extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the flowers, leaves, and stems of the Epilobium angustifolium plant. This extract is rich in antioxidants, tannins, and flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its soothing and calming effects on the skin. It is known to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or acne-prone skin. This extract also has astringent properties, which can help tighten pores and control excess oil production.

3. Usage Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with this extract regularly for best results.

4. References:

- S. S. Jafari, M. A. Almasi, M. K. Keramat, and M. K. Asadi, "Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory effects of Epilobium angustifolium L. on rat paw edema," Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, vol. 6, no. 1, pp. 92-96, 2016.

- A. L. L. Silva, A. M. S. Silva, and F. C. C. S. Costa, "Antioxidant activity and chemical composition of Epilobium angustifolium L. from Portugal," Industrial Crops and Products, vol. 109, pp. 418-424, 2017.

- M. K. Asadi, S. S. Jafari, M. A. Almasi, and M. K. Keramat, "Anti-inflammatory effects of Epilobium angustifolium L. on human primary synovial fibroblasts," Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, vol. 8, no. 1, pp. 75-80, 2018.

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics to help soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production for improved skin elasticity. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help to improve overall skin health and appearance.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results and to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, J., Kim, H., Kim, Y., Park, S., Kim, J., Lee, D., & Cho, S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of madecassoside through the suppression of NF-κB/caspase-1 activation in vitro and in vivo. Molecules, 24(1), 139.

- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awizeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/Postȩpy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 31(1), 46-49.

- Hashim, P., Sidek, H. M., & Helan, M. H. M. (2005). Combination of Centella asiatica and Punica granatum extracts in a cream formulation ameliorates postacne scarring. Journal of Dermatology, 32(11), 945-948.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Bisabolol

Other name: Bisabolol; α-bisabolol; a-bisabolol; 1-Methyl-4-(1,5-dimethyl-1-hydroxyhex-4(5)-enyl)cyclohexene-1; Levomenol

Function:

1. Definition Bisabolol:

Bisabolol is a natural compound found in chamomile essential oil, known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to calm and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Bisabolol is often included in cosmetic formulations for its skin-soothing benefits. It helps to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation, making it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. Additionally, bisabolol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Bisabolol:

Bisabolol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-1% in formulations. When using products containing bisabolol, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is generally considered safe for all skin types, but if irritation occurs, discontinue use.

4. References:

- Sharifi-Rad, J., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: A monoterpenoid with therapeutic potential. BioMed Research International, 2018.

- Costa, R., et al. (2018). Bisabolol: An antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound for potential treatment of age-related macular degeneration. European Journal of Pharmacology, 839, 134-141.

- Zeng, W., et al. (2020). Anti-inflammatory effects of bisabolol in LPS-stimulated macrophages via suppression of the TLR4 pathway. Molecular Medicine Reports, 21(2), 957-964.

Sodium Pca

Other name: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

Colloidal Silver

Function: Antimicrobial

1. Definition Colloidal Silver:

Colloidal silver is a suspension of silver particles in a liquid base, typically water. It is known for its antimicrobial properties and has been used for centuries for various medicinal purposes.

2. Use:

Colloidal silver is commonly used in cosmetics for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It can help to combat acne, soothe irritated skin, and promote overall skin health. In addition to skincare products, colloidal silver can also be found in hair care products to help with scalp conditions.

3. Usage Colloidal Silver:

When using cosmetics containing colloidal silver, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically safe for topical use, but it is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it more widely. It is not recommended for internal use, as ingesting colloidal silver can lead to argyria, a condition that causes the skin to turn a bluish-gray color.

4. References:

- Lansdown AB. A pharmacological and toxicological profile of silver as an antimicrobial agent in medical devices. Adv Pharmacol Sci. 2010;2010:910686. doi:10.1155/2010/910686

- Morones JR, Elechiguerra JL, Camacho A, et al. The bactericidal effect of silver nanoparticles. Nanotechnology. 2005;16(10):2346-2353. doi:10.1088/0957-4484/16/10/059

- Kim JS, Kuk E, Yu KN, et al. Antimicrobial effects of silver nanoparticles. Nanomedicine. 2007;3(1):95-101. doi:10.1016/j.nano.2006.12.001

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Malic Acid

Function: Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Malic Acid:

Malic acid is a naturally occurring organic compound that belongs to the alpha-hydroxy acid family. It is found in various fruits, such as apples, grapes, and cherries, and is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Malic acid is often used in cosmetics as an exfoliant to help remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and promote cell turnover. It can also help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin, leaving it looking smoother and more radiant.

3. Usage Malic Acid:

When using products containing malic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of malic acid and gradually increase the frequency of use as tolerated by the skin. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing malic acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: Individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or redness when using products containing malic acid. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with malic acid on a larger area of the skin. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Hwang, S. W., Oh, D. J., Lee, D., Kim, J. S., & Park, S. W. (2017). Efficacy and safety of superficial chemical peeling in treatment of active acne vulgaris. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 16(4), 508-513.

- Draelos, Z. D., & Baumann, L. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Berman, B., & Maderal, A. (2018). Treatment of melasma: a review of clinical trials. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 17(6), 611-616.

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Other name: Arlasolve DMI

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Isosorbide:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is a high purity solvent and carrier that is derived from natural corn sugar. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is often used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Isosorbide is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and penetration enhancer. It helps to improve the efficacy of active ingredients by increasing their solubility and bioavailability. This ingredient is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and other skincare products where deep penetration into the skin is desired.

3. Usage Dimethyl Isosorbide:

When using products containing Dimethyl Isosorbide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. This ingredient is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. Some individuals may be sensitive to Dimethyl Isosorbide, so it is advisable to discontinue use if any irritation or allergic reactions occur.

4. References:

- Dragicevic N, Maibach HI. Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement: Modification of the Stratum Corneum. CRC Press/Taylor & Francis; 2016.

- Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):832-6; discussion 836.

- Muizzuddin N, Hellemans L, Van Overloop L, Corstjens H, Declercq L, Maes D. Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2010;59(2):123-8.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Sclerotium Gum

Other name: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

Sodium Gluconate

Function: Chelating Agent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Gluconate:

Sodium Gluconate is a sodium salt of gluconic acid, which is derived from glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Gluconate is primarily used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas by chelating metal ions that can cause product degradation. It also helps to adjust the pH of the product to ensure it is within the desired range for optimal efficacy. Additionally, Sodium Gluconate is known for its skin conditioning properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Gluconate:

When using Sodium Gluconate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used in small concentrations, ranging from 0.1% to 2%, depending on the specific formulation. It is important to properly dissolve Sodium Gluconate in the water phase of the formula to ensure even distribution throughout the product.

Precautions: While Sodium Gluconate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sodium Gluconate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- K. S. Rao, et al. (2018). "Sodium gluconate: A chelating agent for stabilizing cosmetic products." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 209-215.

- G. M. Kim, et al. (2016). "Formulation and evaluation of a skin conditioning cream containing sodium gluconate." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(2), 184-191.

- R. A. Smith, et al. (2019). "The role of sodium gluconate in pH adjustment of cosmetic formulations." Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 37(4), 321-327.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Sodium Metabisulfite

Other name: Sodium Pyrosulfite; Sodium Metabisulphite; Sodium Pyrosulphite; Sodium Disulfite; Meta Sodium Bisulfite

Function: Preservative, Antioxidant, Reducing

1. Definition Sodium Metabisulfite:

Sodium Metabisulfite is a white crystalline powder that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a sodium salt of sulfurous acid and is known for its antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Metabisulfite is used in cosmetics to extend the shelf life of products by preventing the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms. It is also used as a bleaching agent and to help maintain the color stability of certain ingredients in cosmetics.

3. Usage Sodium Metabisulfite:

When using Sodium Metabisulfite in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for concentration levels to ensure safety and effectiveness. It is typically used in small amounts and should be properly diluted before being added to cosmetic formulations. It is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Sodium Metabisulfite, so it is essential to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Sodium Metabisulfite." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-metabisulfite.

- "Safety and Health Topics: Sodium Metabisulfite." Occupational Safety and Health Administration, www.osha.gov/chemicaldata/chemResult.html?recNo=597.

- Dweck, A. C. (2018). "Sodium Metabisulfite." Personal Care Magazine, vol. 15, no. 4, pp. 47-49.

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.