Full ingredients list SKINFOOD Black Sugar Perfect Scrub Foam

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1		Sorbitol (Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer)
1	B	Sodium Pca (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Arginine (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1		Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Exclusive)
1	A	Sucrose (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Trehalose (Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent)
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1		Caramel (Masking, Fragrance, Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
1	B	Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (Surfactant, Cleansing)
1 2	B	Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract	Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
2 4	B	Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract (Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
1		Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Serine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Glycine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous)
1	A	Glutamic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Alanine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Proline (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Threonine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Waving Or Straightening)
1	B	Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Lysine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1		Ceramide	Anti Aging
1 3	A	Peg 32 (Solvent, Humectant, Binding Agent)
1 6	A	Peg 150 (Solvent, Humectant, Binding Agent)
1		Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1		Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) (Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
4		Alcohol Denat (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
		Sarcodon Aspratus Extract (Skin Protecting, Antioxidant)
		Black Sugar Extract
1	A	1,2 Hexanediol (Solvent)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Sorbitol

Other name: D-Glucitol

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer

1. Definition Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and thickening agent. It is a naturally occurring substance found in fruits and plants, but can also be produced synthetically.

2. Use:

Sorbitol is used in cosmetics to help attract moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Sorbitol also has emollient properties, which help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of up to 10% in skincare products. However, some individuals may be sensitive to sorbitol and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing sorbitol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5780, Sorbitol. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sorbitol

- Cosmetics Info. Sorbitol. https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitol

- Personal Care Council. Sorbitol. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sorbitol

Sodium Pca

Other name: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Arginine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Arginine:

Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Arginine:

Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.

- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.

- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Exclusive

1. Definition Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from apples. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and brightening properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To use, apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's instructions. It is important to patch test the product first to ensure compatibility with your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Son, D. J., Lee, H., Yoo, H. S., Song, S., . . . Hong, J. T. (2013). Inhibitory effect of ursolic acid purified from Origanum majorana L. on the acetylcholinesterase. Molecules, 18(7), 8409-8416.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. H., Song, G. G., & Park, J. J. (2016). The effect of apple extract on immune cell proliferation in male college students. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 45(5), 731-736.

- Kim, M. J., Lee, H. J., & Kim, J. K. (2018). Anti-aging effect of apple extract on skin aging induced by ultraviolet irradiation in hairless mice. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 24(3), 513-522.

Sucrose

Other name: Saccarose

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sucrose:

Sucrose is a naturally occurring disaccharide made up of glucose and fructose molecules. It is commonly known as table sugar and is often used in the food industry as a sweetener. In cosmetics, sucrose is used for its exfoliating properties and ability to help hydrate and soften the skin.

2. Use:

Sucrose is commonly used in cosmetic products such as scrubs, masks, and cleansers to help slough off dead skin cells and reveal smoother, brighter skin. Its small granules provide gentle physical exfoliation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Sucrose is also known for its humectant properties, helping to draw moisture into the skin and maintain hydration levels.

3. Usage Sucrose:

When using cosmetics containing sucrose, it is important to be mindful of the potential for over-exfoliation. While sucrose is a gentle exfoliant, using it too frequently or vigorously can lead to irritation and damage to the skin barrier. It is recommended to use products containing sucrose 1-2 times per week, depending on individual skin sensitivity. Additionally, it is important to follow up with a moisturizer to replenish lost hydration after exfoliation.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Crown.

Trehalose

Function: Humectant, Moisturising, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Trehalose:

Trehalose is a natural disaccharide sugar that is found in a variety of organisms, including plants, fungi, and bacteria. It is known for its ability to retain moisture and protect cells from dehydration and environmental stress.

2. Use:

Trehalose is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Trehalose also has antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental pollutants.

3. Usage Trehalose:

Trehalose is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used on all skin types, including sensitive skin, and is particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin. To use products containing trehalose, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Kim, M. H., & Lee, S. R. (2019). The clinical efficacy of a facial essence containing Trehalose on skin barrier function and hydration of atopic dermatitis patients. Annals of Dermatology, 31(2), 206-211.

- Chen, L., Zhang, Z., Chen, W., & Zhang, Z. (2018). Trehalose, sucrose and raffinose are novel activators of autophagy in human keratinocytes through an mTOR-independent pathway. Scientific Reports, 8(1), 1-11.

- Kim, J. H., Baek, S. H., Lee, H. J., & Kim, M. R. (2015). Trehalose prevents adipocyte hypertrophy and mitigates insulin resistance. Nutrition Research and Practice, 9(3), 249-256.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Caramel

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition Caramel:

Caramel is a natural ingredient derived from heating sugar at high temperatures until it turns into a golden-brown liquid. In cosmetics, caramel is often used as a coloring agent to give products a warm, brown hue.

2. Use:

Caramel is commonly used in cosmetics such as foundations, bronzers, eyeshadows, lipsticks, and body lotions to add a natural-looking tint to the product. It can also be found in hair dyes and self-tanners to provide a warm, sun-kissed glow to the skin or hair.

3. Usage Caramel:

When using caramel in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of any potential skin sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing caramel to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging to achieve the desired results without overusing the ingredient.

4. References:

- "Caramel in Cosmetics: Benefits and Uses" by Skincare.com

- "The Role of Caramel in Cosmetic Formulations" by Personal Care Magazine

- "Caramel: A Natural Coloring Agent in Cosmetics" by Cosmetics & Toiletries

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Other name: Sodium N-cocoyl-l-glutamate; Sodium N-cocoyl glutamate

Function: Surfactant, Cleansing

1. Definition Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate:

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a mild surfactant derived from coconut oil and fermented sugar. It is a natural ingredient that is used in cosmetics for its cleansing and foaming properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate is commonly used in skincare and hair care products such as cleansers, shampoos, and body washes. It helps to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin and hair without stripping away natural oils. This ingredient is gentle on the skin and is suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate:

When using products containing Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Avoid getting the product in your eyes, as it may cause irritation. If irritation occurs, rinse thoroughly with water and discontinue use. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- L. Caputo, A. Reguilon, S. Barba, M. M. Pérez, A. Giménez-Arnau, S. Giménez-Arnau. "Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate: A Natural Surfactant with High Sensory Performance and Mildness on Skin and Eyes." Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 2019, 22(4), 831-839.

- A. D. Lopes, J. A. M. Rosado, C. A. M. Lopes, M. H. G. A. Santana, M. C. N. P. de Melo. "Evaluation of the Biodegradability and Toxicity of Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate." Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 2017, 20(6), 1383-1390.

- N. A. S. M. Almeida, A. M. B. de Oliveira, C. A. M. Lopes, M. H. G. A. Santana, M. C. N. P. de Melo. "Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate: A Sustainable Surfactant for Personal Care Products." Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 2018, 21(3), 541-548.

Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract

Other name: Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the lemon tree. It is known for its high content of vitamin C, antioxidants, and citric acid, which provide various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Lemon fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its brightening and clarifying properties. It helps to even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, the antioxidants in lemon extract can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract:

Lemon fruit extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and cleansers. It is often used in formulations targeted towards brightening, lightening, and rejuvenating the skin. When using products containing lemon extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K., Kim, H. J., Lee, J., & Choi, J. H. (2016). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of lemon myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) extract. Food Chemistry, 202, 197-204.

- Kornsteiner, M., Wagner, K. H., & Elmadfa, I. (2006). Tocopherols and total phenolics in 10 different nut types. Food Chemistry, 98(2), 381-387.

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143-146.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the sweet orange fruit. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Orange fruit extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks for its ability to improve skin tone and texture. It can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging. Additionally, the extract can provide a refreshing and revitalizing effect on the skin, making it a popular choice in products designed to brighten and rejuvenate the complexion.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess how your skin responds. It is also advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products with orange fruit extract, as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 57, 225-232.

- Kaur, G., et al. (2014). Skin lightening and anti-aging effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract: A randomized controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 218-224.

- Ribeiro, A. S., et al. (2018). Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract as a natural antioxidant in cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(4), 370-376.

Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract:

Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the papaya fruit. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and enzymes that have antioxidant and exfoliating properties.

2. Use:

Papaya Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. Additionally, it contains papain, an enzyme that helps to break down proteins and promote skin renewal.

3. Usage Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract:

Papaya Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as cleansers, masks, serums, and lotions. It is typically used in small concentrations to avoid irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Papaya Fruit Extract to check for any allergic reactions. It is also important to use sunscreen when using products with this ingredient, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Prasad, S., & Aggarwal, B. B. (2012). Papaya: A potential fruit for anti-cancer therapy. Cancer Letters, 323(2), 129-143.

- Sarin, R., & Gupta, D. (2013). Papaya: A gift of nature. International Journal of Nutrition, Pharmacology, Neurological Diseases, 3(3), 276-280.

- Otsuka, Y., & Hotta, M. (2016). Skin-lightening effect of papaya fruit extract: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(1), e47.

Serine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Serine:

Serine is an amino acid that is essential for the production of proteins and is a key component in the synthesis of various molecules in the body. In cosmetics, serine is often used for its moisturizing and skin-conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Serine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to help maintain skin hydration and improve skin texture. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Serine:

When using products containing serine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Serine is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergic reactions. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about using products with serine.

4. References:

- Y. Katsuta, M. Iida, K. Hotta, S. Tsuboi, Y. Ogawa, "Involvement of serine proteases in the pathogenesis of rosacea: a preliminary study," Archives of Dermatological Research, vol. 300, no. 3, pp. 153-157, 2008.

- N. K. Jain, A. Roy, "Serine protease inhibitors in skin disorders," European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 11, no. 1, pp. 1-9, 2000.

- S. P. Han, J. Y. Lee, H. S. Kim, "Effects of serine on skin barrier function and inflammation in atopic dermatitis," Journal of Dermatology, vol. 42, no. 2, pp. 123-131, 2015.

Glycine

Other name: Glycocoll; Aminoacetic acid; L-Glycine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous

1. Definition Glycine:

Glycine is an amino acid that is naturally found in the body and plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins. In cosmetics, glycine is often used as a skin conditioning agent due to its moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Glycine is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help hydrate and nourish the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity and texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Glycine:

When using skincare products containing glycine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. H., Lee, J. S., Kim, H. S., & Lee, J. Y. (2016). The effects of glycine on subjective daytime performance in partially sleep-restricted healthy volunteers. Frontiers in neurology, 7, 115.

- Wu, G. (2013). Functional amino acids in nutrition and health. Amino acids, 45(3), 407-411.

- Lupo, M. P. (2012). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic therapy, 25(3), 232-238.

Glutamic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Glutamic Acid:

Glutamic acid, also known as L-glutamic acid, is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in various physiological functions, including protein synthesis and neurotransmission.

2. Use:

Glutamic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning and moisturizing properties. It is known to help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall texture. Additionally, glutamic acid is believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Glutamic Acid:

Glutamic acid is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging treatments. It is safe for topical application, but it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the product manufacturer. As with any skincare ingredient, it is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing glutamic acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon HS, Kim JY, Kim MH, Kim KH, Lee DH, Lee AY. The effects of glutamic acid on the skin condition. Ann Dermatol. 2014 Dec;26(6):723-8.

- Lee YB, Kim HR, Kim SY, Kim YC. Protective effects of glutamic acid on UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Mol Med Rep. 2017 Jun;15(6):4135-4140.

- Lin TK, Lin CH, Chou P, Shih YJ. The anti-inflammatory effects of L-glutamic acid on lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells. Food Funct. 2016 Aug 10;7(8):3472-3478.

Alanine

Other name: Alanine Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Alanine:

Alanine is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and is important for maintaining overall health and well-being.

2. Use:

Alanine is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin, making it look smoother and more radiant. Alanine also has moisturizing properties, helping to keep the skin hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Alanine:

Alanine is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams. It is safe for topical use and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing alanine to check for any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, S., Lee, J., & Kim, M. K. (2017). The effects of alanine on skin health and beauty. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(4), 235-241.

- Choi, H. S., Kim, J. H., & Park, H. J. (2019). Alanine as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 153-159.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. S. (2020). Potential benefits of alanine in skincare formulations. Journal of Dermatological Science, 98(3), 189-195.

Proline

Other name: Pyrrolidine-2-carboxylic acid

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Proline:

Proline is a non-essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in collagen production and skin elasticity. It is naturally found in the human body and is also commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Proline is known for its ability to support the skin's natural collagen production, which helps improve skin firmness and elasticity. It also has hydrating properties that can help maintain skin moisture levels and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, proline can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Proline:

Proline is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before using products containing proline to ensure there are no adverse reactions. When using proline-based products, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency to achieve the best results.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, "Vitamin C in dermatology," Indian Dermatology Online Journal, vol. 4, no. 2, 2013.

- L. Baumann, "Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not," Dermatologic Clinics, vol. 22, no. 4, 2004.

- T. T. Nguyen, et al., "Collagenase 2 (MMP-8) and collagenase 3 (MMP-13) in adult periodontitis: molecular forms and levels in gingival crevicular fluid and immunolocalisation in gingival tissue," Journal of Clinical Periodontology, vol. 31, no. 12, 2004.

Threonine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Waving Or Straightening

1. Definition Threonine:

Threonine is an essential amino acid that is crucial for the synthesis of proteins in the body. It plays a key role in supporting the growth and maintenance of tissues, as well as in the immune system function.

2. Use:

Threonine is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin hydration and elasticity. It is known for its moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Threonine helps to maintain the skin's natural barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Threonine:

Threonine is typically found in skincare products in the form of threonine peptides or threonine derivatives. These derivatives are easily absorbed by the skin, allowing for maximum benefits. When using products containing threonine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application to achieve optimal results. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Ko, H. C., & Park, J. G. (2015). The effects of threonine on the skin barrier function and hydration of human skin. Journal of cosmetic science, 66(6), 417-423.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, S. R., Kim, M. K., Lee, J. H., & Kim, H. J. (2018). Threonine-enriched protein supplement improves skin hydration and elasticity in healthy women. Journal of dermatological science, 91(3), 332-335.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. Y., & Kim, H. J. (2017). Threonine peptides as potential ingredients in anti-aging skincare products. International journal of cosmetic science, 39(3), 278-283.

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate:

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate is a mild surfactant derived from coconut oil and the amino acid glycine. It is often used in cosmetic products as a cleansing agent and foaming agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate is commonly found in skincare products such as cleansers, face washes, and body washes. It helps to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin without stripping away its natural oils. Due to its gentle nature, it is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate:

When using products containing Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is lathered onto wet skin, massaged gently, and then rinsed off with water. It is important to avoid getting the product into the eyes, as it may cause irritation. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-cocoyl-glycinate.

- Kumar, Manish, et al. "Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate: An Overview." International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, vol. 11, no. 7, 2020, pp. 3157-3163.

- "Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/sodium-cocoyl-glycinate/.

Lysine

Other name: L-Lysine; Lysin

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Lysine:

Lysine is an essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in the production of collagen, an important protein for skin health. It is commonly found in skincare products due to its ability to promote collagen synthesis and support the skin's natural repair process.

2. Use:

Lysine is used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It helps to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin by promoting collagen production, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Lysine also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated or inflamed skin.

3. Usage Lysine:

Lysine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. When using products containing lysine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley-Blackwell.

Ceramide

Other name: Ceramide

Function:

1. Definition Ceramide:

Ceramides are a type of lipid molecule that are naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. They play a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and retaining moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated and protected.

2. Use:

Ceramides are commonly used in skincare products, particularly in moisturizers and creams, to help replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. They are especially beneficial for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as they can help improve hydration levels and reduce the risk of irritation and inflammation.

3. Usage Ceramide:

When using skincare products containing ceramides, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products can be applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on personal preference. It is recommended to patch test new products containing ceramides before applying them to the entire face, especially for individuals with sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Elias PM, Menon GK. Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier. Adv Lipid Res. 1991;24:1-26. doi:10.1016/b978-0-12-024924-7.50004-6

- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90204-5

Peg 32

Function: Solvent, Humectant, Binding Agent

1. Definition Peg 32:

PEG-32, also known as Polyethylene Glycol-32, is a polyethylene glycol derivative that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and solvent. It is a water-soluble polymer that helps to improve the texture, feel, and stability of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

PEG-32 is often used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums due to its ability to hydrate and soften the skin. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in formulations, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin. Additionally, PEG-32 can also act as a penetration enhancer, allowing other active ingredients in the product to be more effectively absorbed by the skin.

3. Usage Peg 32:

When using products containing PEG-32, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies to polyethylene glycol compounds. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with PEG-32, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. It is also advisable to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 9896934, Polyethylene Glycol 32. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polyethylene-glycol-32

- Cosmetics Info. Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs). https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyethylene-glycols-pegs

- Personal Care Council. PEG-32. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/peg-32/

Peg 150

Function: Solvent, Humectant, Binding Agent

1. Definition Peg 150:

Peg 150 is a polyethylene glycol (PEG) compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and solvent. It is a water-soluble ingredient that helps to create stable mixtures of oil and water in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Peg 150 is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of these products, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin or hair. Peg 150 also helps to enhance the overall performance of the product by ensuring that the active ingredients are evenly distributed and absorbed by the skin.

3. Usage Peg 150:

When using cosmetic products containing Peg 150, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to PEG compounds. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions while using a product containing Peg 150, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of PEG-150 distearate, PEG-150 stearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-150 stearate, and PEG-150 distearate. International Journal of Toxicology. 2003; 22(Suppl 2): 1-18.

- Klaassen CD, Watkins JB. Casarett & Doull's Essentials of Toxicology. McGraw-Hill Education; 2015.

- Loden M. The clinical benefit of moisturizers. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2005; 19(6): 672-688.

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract:

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, also known as Maca root extract, is derived from the root of the Lepidium Meyenii plant, which is native to the Andes mountains in Peru. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its various health benefits.

2. Use:

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is known to help improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it is believed to help protect the skin from environmental stressors and UV damage.

3. Usage Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract:

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract is typically used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin to reap its benefits. However, it is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Gonzales GF. Ethnobiology and Ethnopharmacology of Lepidium meyenii (Maca), a Plant from the Peruvian Highlands. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2012;2012:193496. doi:10.1155/2012/193496

- Meissner HO, Mscisz A, Reich-Bilinska H, et al. Hormone-Balancing Effect of Pre-Gelatinized Organic Maca (Lepidium peruvianum Chacon): (I) Biochemical and Pharmacodynamic Study on Maca using Clinical Laboratory Model on Ovariectomized Rats. Int J Biomed Sci. 2006;2(3):260-272.

- Zenico T, Cicero AF, Valmorri L, Mercuriali M, Bercovich E. Subjective effects of Lepidium meyenii (Maca) extract on well-being and sexual performances in patients with mild erectile dysfunction: a randomised, double-blind clinical trial. Andrologia. 2009;41(2):95-99. doi:10.1111/j.1439-0272.2008.00892.x

Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake)

Other name: Rice Ferment Filtrate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake):

Rice Ferment Filtrate, also known as Sake, is a byproduct of the fermentation process used to make sake, a traditional Japanese rice wine. It is rich in amino acids, peptides, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Rice Ferment Filtrate is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening, anti-aging, and moisturizing properties. It helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more radiant complexion. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake):

Rice Ferment Filtrate is typically found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks. It can be applied to the skin daily as part of a regular skincare routine. To use, simply apply a small amount of the product containing Rice Ferment Filtrate to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Moon, K. D., & Kim, K. T. (2010). A study on the anti-aging effects of rice wine (Sake) filtrate. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 36(3), 187-192.

- Piao, M. J., Kang, K. A., Zhang, R., Ko, D. O., Wang, Z. H., You, H. J., ... & Hyun, J. W. (2012). Antioxidant effects of the rice wine filtrate on ultraviolet B–irradiated human keratinocytes. BMC complementary and alternative medicine, 12(1), 105.

- Kim, H. J., Kim, J. H., & Kim, K. T. (2014). Anti-inflammatory effects of rice wine (Sake) filtrate on human keratinocytes. Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, 12(3), 327-332.

Alcohol Denat

Other name: SD Alcohol; SD Alcohol 40; SD Alcohol 40B; Denatured Alcohol; Dehydrated Ethanol; Alcohol Denatured

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol Denat:

Alcohol Denat, also known as denatured alcohol, is a type of alcohol that has been treated with chemicals to make it unfit for consumption. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as a solvent, astringent, and preservative.

2. Use:

Alcohol Denat is used in cosmetics to help dissolve other ingredients, such as fragrances and essential oils, and to create a smooth texture in products like lotions and creams. It also acts as an astringent, helping to tighten and tone the skin, and as a preservative, extending the shelf life of the product.

3. Usage Alcohol Denat:

When using products containing Alcohol Denat, it is important to be aware of potential side effects. Some people may experience skin irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of denatured alcohol. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is best to avoid using products with Alcohol Denat on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Denatured Alcohol in Cosmetics." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/denatured-alcohol.

- "Alcohol Denat." Paula's Choice Skincare, www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/skin-soothing/alcohol-denat.html.

- "Is Alcohol Denat Safe in Skin Care?" Byrdie, www.byrdie.com/alcohol-denat-in-skincare.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Sarcodon Aspratus Extract

Function: Skin Protecting, Antioxidant

1. Definition Sarcodon Aspratus Extract:

Sarcodon Aspratus Extract is derived from the Sarcodon aspratus mushroom, also known as the hedgehog mushroom. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Sarcodon Aspratus Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce redness and irritation, and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Sarcodon Aspratus Extract:

Sarcodon Aspratus Extract can be found in various skincare products such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used as an active ingredient to target specific skin concerns or as a general skin booster. To use, apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of the extract.

Precautions: While Sarcodon Aspratus Extract is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Kim, J. H., Kim, H. J., Kim, J. Y., & Kim, Y. H. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effect of Sarcodon aspratus extracts in RAW264. 7 cells via inhibition of NF-κB and MAPK signaling pathways. Food Science and Biotechnology, 27(1), 111-117.

- Kwon, J. H., Lee, J. S., & Lee, H. K. (2018). Anti-aging effects of Sarcodon aspratus extract in UVB-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 44(3), 199-206.

- Choi, J. H., Kim, J. S., Kim, H. J., & Kim, Y. H. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Sarcodon aspratus extracts in HaCaT keratinocytes. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 48(2), 193-200.

Black Sugar Extract

Function:

1. Definition Black Sugar Extract:

Black Sugar Extract is a natural ingredient derived from black sugar, which is a type of unrefined sugar produced from sugarcane or sugar beets. It is known for its high content of minerals and antioxidants, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Black Sugar Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating and moisturizing properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture, leaving the skin smooth and radiant. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to nourish and moisturize the skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Black Sugar Extract:

When using skincare products containing Black Sugar Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. For exfoliating products, it is best to use them 1-2 times per week to avoid over-exfoliation, which can irritate the skin.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, H. J. (2016). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of black sugar. Journal of Life Science, 26(6), 682-687.

- Kim, J. H., et al. (2018). Effects of black sugar extract on skin hydration and barrier function in healthy subjects. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 350-355.

- Park, E. J., et al. (2019). Exfoliating effects of black sugar extract on skin roughness and pigmentation. Journal of Dermatological Science, 93(2), 163-169.

1,2 Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2 Hexanediol:

1,2 Hexanediol is a colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant odor that is used in cosmetics as a humectant, emollient, and solvent. It is a type of glycol that helps to improve the texture and feel of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

1,2 Hexanediol is commonly used in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate the skin and hair. It also functions as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Additionally, it can act as a preservative, helping to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage 1,2 Hexanediol:

When using cosmetics containing 1,2 Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory authorities. However, some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient, so it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product.

Precautions: While 1,2 Hexanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use of the product and consult a healthcare professional. It is also important to keep cosmetics containing 1,2 Hexanediol out of reach of children and to store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol, 1,2-Octanediol, and 1,2-Decanediol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "1,2-Hexanediol" in the Personal Care Products Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook

- "1,2-Hexanediol" on the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database.