Full ingredients list Perricone MD Blue Plasma

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
2	A	Sorbic Acid (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Maltodextrin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1		Gluconolactone (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1 4	B	Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Urea (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent)
2 3		Zinc Gluconate (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Biocide)
1		Menthyl Lactate (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing)
2		Copper Gluconate (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Magnesium Aspartate (Skin Conditioning)
2 3		Dimethyl Mea (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	B	Carnitine (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting)
1	A	Phosphatidylcholine (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1 4		Subtilisin (Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Lytic Agent)
1		Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract (Hair Conditioning)
1		Hydrolyzed Roe (Skin Conditioning)
1		Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Blue 1
1		Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan)
1	A	Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan (Viscosity Controlling, Cleansing, Binding)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Sorbic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is a natural compound that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a white, crystalline powder that is soluble in water and has a slightly acidic taste.

2. Use:

Sorbic acid is used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria. It helps extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and degradation.

3. Usage Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is typically used in concentrations of 0.2% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to create a broad-spectrum antimicrobial effect. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by regulatory authorities to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

Precautions: While sorbic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing sorbic acid, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, sorbic acid should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Sorbic Acid. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Sorbic Acid. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.185

Maltodextrin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.

2. Use:

Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.

3. Usage Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.

4. References:

- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)

- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)

- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)

Gluconolactone

Other name: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant

1. Definition Gluconolactone:

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.

2. Use:

Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gluconolactone:

When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate:

Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate is a mild, non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and polyethylene glycol. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate is used in various cosmetic products such as cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to cleanse the skin and hair by removing dirt and impurities while also providing moisturizing benefits. Additionally, it helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in formulations.

3. Usage Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate:

When using products containing Peg 7 Glyceryl Cocoate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to avoid contact with the eyes and to rinse thoroughly if contact occurs.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "The Complete Beauty Bible: The Ultimate Guide to Smart Beauty." Rodale Books.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2015). "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook." Washington, DC: Personal Care Products Council.

- G. Wypych. (2016). "Handbook of Surfactants." ChemTec Publishing.

Urea

Other name: Carbonyl diamide; Carbamide

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Antistatic Agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Urea:

Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the human body and is also synthetically produced for use in various cosmetic products. It is a humectant that helps to draw moisture into the skin and is known for its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

Urea is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and lotions due to its ability to help improve skin hydration. It is especially beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin, as it can help to soften and smooth the skin's surface.

3. Usage Urea:

When using skincare products containing urea, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent any potential skin irritation. Individuals with sensitive skin should perform a patch test before applying urea-containing products to a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC Press.

Zinc Gluconate

Other name: Zn Gluconate

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Biocide

1. Definition Zinc Gluconate:

Zinc Gluconate is a mineral compound that is derived from zinc and gluconic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

2. Use:

Zinc Gluconate is often used in skincare products to help reduce inflammation, treat acne, and promote overall skin health. It can also help regulate oil production and promote wound healing.

3. Usage Zinc Gluconate:

Zinc Gluconate can be found in various forms in cosmetics, such as creams, serums, and spot treatments. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as an ingredient in a skincare formulation. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing Zinc Gluconate.

4. References:

- Bhattacharjee, S., & Koley, J. (2018). Zinc gluconate: A promising agent for the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 63(4), 332-336.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). The effect of zinc supplementation on acne vulgaris: A systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 9(11), 1403-1408.

- Sharquie, K. E., & Al-Turfi, I. A. (2017). The role of zinc gluconate in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(4), e68-e73.

Menthyl Lactate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent, Refreshing

1. Definition Menthyl Lactate:

Menthyl Lactate is a compound derived from menthol and lactic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its cooling and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products such as lotions, creams, and balms.

2. Use:

Menthyl Lactate is known for its ability to provide a cooling sensation on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to soothe and refresh. It is often used in skincare products to help calm irritated or inflamed skin, as well as in products designed to relieve muscle soreness or tension.

3. Usage Menthyl Lactate:

When using products containing Menthyl Lactate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions. Avoid using products containing Menthyl Lactate on broken or irritated skin, and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- L. R. Gonsalves, S. V. N. Padma, V. S. H. Rao, "Menthyl lactate: A new topical analgesic for postoperative pain relief," Journal of Clinical Anesthesia, vol. 22, no. 1, pp. 22-26, 2010.

- J. M. Silva, M. A. R. Gomes, A. C. M. A. Paiva, "Menthyl lactate: A review of its properties and applications in cosmetics," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 209-215, 2020.

- S. K. Singh, A. K. Singh, R. K. Singh, "Menthyl lactate: A potential ingredient for cooling and refreshing cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 19, no. 4, pp. 876-882, 2020.

Copper Gluconate

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Copper Gluconate:

Copper Gluconate is a mineral compound that combines copper with gluconic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and skin benefits.

2. Use:

Copper Gluconate is used in cosmetics for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps to protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors.

3. Usage Copper Gluconate:

Copper Gluconate is typically found in anti-aging skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is often used in conjunction with other active ingredients to enhance its benefits. When using products containing Copper Gluconate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Sarkar, R., Arora, P., & Garg, K. V. (2013). Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 6(1), 4–11. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-2077.110089

- Bissett, D. L., Chatterjee, R., Hannon, D. P., & Dennis, M. A. (2007). An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 1, 55–60. https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.s1133

- Borkow, G., & Gabbay, J. (2008). Copper, an ancient remedy returning to fight microbial, fungal and viral infections. Current Chemical Biology, 2(1), 272–278. https://doi.org/10.2174/2212796810802010272

Magnesium Aspartate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Magnesium Aspartate:

Magnesium Aspartate is a mineral compound that combines magnesium with aspartic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties and ability to help improve skin health.

2. Use:

Magnesium Aspartate is known for its ability to help regulate cell function and improve skin hydration. It is often included in skincare products to help promote a healthy skin barrier and reduce inflammation. Additionally, magnesium aspartate can also help to improve skin elasticity and firmness, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Magnesium Aspartate:

When using cosmetics containing magnesium aspartate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase usage to assess tolerance.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. 2nd ed. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Farris, P. K. (2010). Cosmeceuticals: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series. 2nd ed. Elsevier Health Sciences.

Dimethyl Mea

Other name: DMAE; Dimethylamino ethanol; Deanol; Dimethyl MEA

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Dimethyl Mea:

Dimethyl Mea, also known as dimethylaminoethanol or DMAE, is a compound that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is a derivative of the B vitamin choline and is naturally found in small amounts in the brain.

2. Use:

Dimethyl Mea is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is often included in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions to help promote a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Dimethyl Mea:

When using skincare products containing Dimethyl Mea, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. Additionally, it is advised to start with a lower concentration of Dimethyl Mea and gradually increase the usage to assess how your skin reacts to the ingredient.

4. References:

- Perricone MD. (n.d.). DMAE. Retrieved from https://www.perriconemd.com/ingredients/dmae.html

- SkinCeuticals. (n.d.). Dimethyl Mea. Retrieved from https://www.skinceuticals.com/ingredient-science/dmae

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Professional.

Carnitine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting

1. Definition Carnitine:

Carnitine is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative that plays a crucial role in the transportation of fatty acids into the mitochondria to be used as energy. In cosmetics, carnitine is often used for its ability to promote the metabolism of fats and improve skin texture.

2. Use:

Carnitine is commonly used in skincare products for its potential to help reduce the appearance of cellulite and improve skin firmness. It is believed to enhance the body's natural fat-burning process and promote the breakdown of stored fat, leading to smoother and more toned skin.

3. Usage Carnitine:

Carnitine is typically found in topical creams, serums, and lotions designed to target areas of the body where cellulite is present. These products are applied directly to the skin and massaged in to promote absorption. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating carnitine-containing products into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Schunck M, Zague V, Oesser S, Proksch E. Dietary Supplementation with Specific Collagen Peptides Has a Body Mass Index-Dependent Beneficial Effect on Cellulite Morphology. J Med Food. 2015 Dec;18(12):1340-8. doi: 10.1089/jmf.2015.0022. Epub 2015 Nov 13. PMID: 26561784.

- Hexsel D, Orlandi C, Zechmeister do Prado D. Botanical extracts used in the treatment of cellulite. Dermatol Ther. 2019 May;32(3):e12976. doi: 10.1111/dth.12976. Epub 2019 Apr 23. PMID: 31016804.

- Bertin C, Zunino H, Pittet JC, Beau P, Descomps B, Goua M. Study of the effect of L-carnitine in the treatment of cellulite. Med Cutan Ibero Lat Am. 1988;16(3):237-41. PMID: 3263781.

Phosphatidylcholine

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Phosphatidylcholine:

Phosphatidylcholine is a type of phospholipid that is commonly found in cell membranes. It is a key component of the lipid bilayer that surrounds cells, helping to maintain their structure and function.

2. Use:

Phosphatidylcholine is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help hydrate and soften the skin. Additionally, phosphatidylcholine can also help to improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making it a popular choice for formulators.

3. Usage Phosphatidylcholine:

When using cosmetics containing phosphatidylcholine, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for most people to use topically, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., & Kim, J. (2015). Phosphatidylcholine and skin barrier: De novo synthesis of phosphatidylcholine in the stratum corneum of human epidermis. Journal of Lipid Research, 56(11), 2248-2259.

- Rawlings, A. V., & Lombard, K. J. (2012). A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(6), 511-518.

- Bissett, D. L., Chatterjee, R., Hannon, D. P., & Wickett, R. R. (2005). Microscopic evaluation of phospholipid-based skin moisturizers. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 987-994.

Subtilisin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Lytic Agent

1. Definition Subtilisin:

Subtilisin is a protease enzyme derived from Bacillus subtilis, a common bacteria found in soil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an exfoliating agent to help remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture.

2. Use:

Subtilisin is used in cosmetics as a gentle exfoliant to help improve skin texture and promote cell turnover. It works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be easily sloughed off, revealing smoother and brighter skin underneath.

3. Usage Subtilisin:

When using cosmetics containing subtilisin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to avoid using products containing subtilisin on broken or irritated skin, as it may cause further irritation.

4. References:

- Hengge R, Grundling A, Jenal U, Ryan R, Yildiz F. Bacterial Signal Transduction Networks. 1st ed. Caister Academic Press; 2008.

- Trott S, Kalve I, Lepri L. The Role of Proteases in the Skin. 1st ed. CRC Press; 2005.

- Rawlings ND, Salvesen G. Handbook of Proteolytic Enzymes. 3rd ed. Academic Press; 2013.

Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract

Function: Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract:

Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark of the Pterocarpus Marsupium tree, also known as Indian Kino Tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to help reduce inflammation, protect against free radicals, and promote overall skin health. It is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or irritated skin, as well as products aimed at anti-aging and skin rejuvenation.

3. Usage Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract:

Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract can be found in various forms in skincare products, such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2% in formulations. Users should follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure compatibility with their skin.

4. References:

- Kumar, D., Kumar, M., Saravanan, C., & Singh, S. K. (2012). Anti-inflammatory and anti-arthritic activity of Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 498-501.

- Srinivasan, S., Sathish, G., Jayanthi, M., Muthukumaran, J., Murugan, V., & Revathi, R. (2012). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. Journal of Pharmacy Research, 5(5), 2873-2876.

- Kulkarni, R., Deshpande, A., & Vaidya, A. (2015). Anti-inflammatory and anti-arthritic activity of Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb. stem bark. International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research, 7(5), 935-939.

Hydrolyzed Roe

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Roe:

Hydrolyzed Roe is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the eggs of fish, typically salmon or sturgeon. The roe is processed through hydrolysis, a chemical reaction that breaks down proteins into smaller peptides, making them more easily absorbed by the skin.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Roe is known for its rich source of essential nutrients such as proteins, vitamins, and minerals. These nutrients help to nourish and hydrate the skin, improve skin elasticity, and promote collagen production. It also has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Roe:

Hydrolyzed Roe is commonly found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine. To use, apply a small amount of the product containing Hydrolyzed Roe to clean, dry skin and gently massage until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen for added protection.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K. (2012). Marine cosmeceuticals. CRC Press.

- Lee, J., & Kim, S. K. (2013). Marine-derived anti-wrinkle agents: a review. Marine drugs, 11(8), 2826-2846.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract:

Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark of the Magnolia obovata tree. This extract is rich in bioactive compounds such as honokiol and magnolol, which have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce redness, inflammation, and irritation, making it ideal for sensitive or reactive skin types. Additionally, the antioxidant properties of this extract can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging.

3. Usage Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract:

Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in formulations. To incorporate this extract into your skincare routine, apply products containing Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract after cleansing and toning, and follow with a moisturizer.

4. References:

- Kim, S. J., Kim, J. S., Cho, H. S., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. J., Lee, S. R., & Kim, Y. C. (2009). Honokiol inhibits oxidative stress-induced inflammatory responses in rat aortic smooth muscle cells. Toxicology and applied pharmacology, 237(2), 171-180.

- Choi, H. S., Kim, S. L., Kim, J. H., Jeong, S. I., Kim, S. H., & Kim, S. J. (2013). Anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects of magnolia bark extract on human skin cells. International journal of cosmetic science, 35(4), 376-381.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. G., Ra, J. C., Ko, S. H., & Choi, I. G. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effect of magnolia bark extract in human keratinocytes. International journal of molecular sciences, 18(10), 2147.

Blue 1

Other name: Brillant blue FCF; Brilliant blue FCF; CI 42090; FD&C Blue 1 Aluminium Lake; FD&C Blue #1; Food Blue 2; Blue 1; Blue 1 Lake; Acid blue 9; Erioglaucine A; Acid Blue 9 Aluminum Lake

Function:

1. Definition Blue 1:

Blue 1, also known as FD&C Blue No. 1 or Brilliant Blue FCF, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to provide a blue color.

2. Use:

Blue 1 is primarily used as a colorant in various cosmetic products such as eyeshadows, lipsticks, nail polishes, and hair dyes. It is known for its vibrant blue hue and is often used to create bold and eye-catching makeup looks.

3. Usage Blue 1:

Blue 1 is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory bodies such as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States and the European Union. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to synthetic dyes like Blue 1, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. Additionally, it is advisable to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of FD&C Blue No. 1. International Journal of Toxicology. 2002;21(Suppl 3):15-41.

- Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Color Additives Permitted for Use in Cosmetics. Accessed from: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics

- European Commission. CosIng Database. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/

Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan)

Function:

1. Definition Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan):

Chondrus Crispus, commonly known as Carrageenan, is a type of red seaweed that is widely used in the cosmetic industry for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Carrageenan is used in cosmetics to improve the texture, consistency, and stability of products such as lotions, creams, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, while also preventing the separation of ingredients in formulations.

3. Usage Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan):

Carrageenan is typically added to cosmetic formulations at a concentration of 0.1% to 2%. It is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage to avoid any potential adverse effects. Carrageenan is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Draget, K.I., Skjak-Braek, G., and Smidsrod, O. (2006). Alginates from Algae. In: Steinbuchel, A., ed. Biopolymers, Volume 6: Polysaccharides II: Polysaccharides from Eukaryotes. Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA.

- Lopes, G., Sousa, C., Silva, L.R., Pinto, E., and Andrade, P.B. (2012). Chapter 9: Seaweeds as Preventive Agents for Skin Disorders. In: Kim, S.K., ed. Handbook of Anticancer Drugs from Marine Origin. Springer.

- De Jesus Raposo, M.F., De Morais, R.M.S.C., and De Morais, A.M.M.B. (2013). Bioactivity and Applications of Sulphated Polysaccharides from Marine Microalgae. Marine Drugs, 11(1), 233-252.

Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Cleansing, Binding

1. Definition Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan:

Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan is a water-soluble ingredient derived from the cell walls of yeast. It is a polysaccharide that has moisturizing and soothing properties for the skin.

2. Use:

Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin hydration and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin types.

3. Usage Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan:

Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to patch test products containing Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., Kim, H. J., Cho, Y., & Kim, J. H. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of sodium carboxymethyl β-glucan isolated from Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 27(12), 2227-2233.

- Song, J. E., Kim, H. J., Cho, Y., & Kim, J. H. (2018). Anti-wrinkle effects of sodium carboxymethyl β-glucan isolated from Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 28(8), 1177-1182.

- Lee, S. H., Kim, H. J., Cho, Y., & Kim, J. H. (2019). Moisturizing effects of sodium carboxymethyl β-glucan isolated from Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, 29(4), 547-552.