Ingredients list Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Dark Spot Sun ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1 3		Titanium Dioxide (Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying)	UV Protection Good for sensitive skin
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
4 6	A	Benzyl Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic )	Allergen
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Aluminum Hydroxide (Humectant, Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Sodium Citrate (Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating)
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial)
3	B	Polysorbate 60 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Isononyl Isononanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent)
1		Polyhydroxystearic Acid (Emulsifying, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1	B	Sodium Pca (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin
1	B	Isohexadecane (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
5		Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil	Bad for sensitive skin
1		Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging Brightening
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1	A	Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (Emollient, Emulsifying, Surface Modifier)
1 4	B	Glycolic Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1	A	Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Antioxidant)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Ascorbyl Glucoside (Antioxidant)	Brightening
1	A	Phospholipids (Skin Conditioning)
1		Coconut Alkanes (Solvent, Emollient)	Bad for oily skin
1 2	A	Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
1		Saccharide Isomerate (Humectant)
1 2	B	Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract
1 3		Zinc Pca (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent)
1		Oleanolic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 (Skin Conditioning)
3	B	Peg 60 Almond Glycerides (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1		Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Melatonin (Antioxidant)
1		Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid (Antioxidant)
1 3		Sphingolipids (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate (Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant)
1		Tocopherol (Vitamin E)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil	Promotes Wound Healing Fungal Acne Trigger
		Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract (Skin Protecting)
1		Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
1	B	Coco Caprylate/ Caprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Titanium Dioxide

Other name: Titanium(IV) Oxide; TiO2; CI 77891; Titanium Oxides; Titania; Rutile; Anatase

Function: Cosmetic Colorant, Uv Absorber, Sunscreen Agent, Opacifying

1. Definition Titanium Dioxide:

Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that is commonly used as a pigment in cosmetics due to its ability to provide opacity and UV protection.

2. Use:

Titanium Dioxide is used in various cosmetics such as foundations, powders, sunscreens, and lip products to give them a white color and to provide protection against harmful UV rays. It is also used as a thickening agent in some formulations.

3. Usage Titanium Dioxide:

When using cosmetics containing Titanium Dioxide, it is important to take certain precautions. Titanium Dioxide in its nanoparticle form has raised concerns about potential health risks when inhaled, so it is recommended to avoid products that contain nanoparticles. Additionally, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to Titanium Dioxide, so it is advisable to do a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lademann, J., Weigmann, H. J., Rickmeyer, C., Barthelmes, H., Schaefer, H., & Mueller, G. (1999). Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 12(5), 247-256.

- Tinkle, S. S., Antonini, J. M., Rich, B. A., Roberts, J. R., Salmen, R., DePree, K., ... & Adkins, E. J. (2003). Skin as a route of exposure and sensitization in chronic beryllium disease. Environmental Health Perspectives, 111(9), 1202-1208.

- Sadrieh, N., Wokovich, A. M., Gopee, N. V., Zheng, J., Haines, D., Parmiter, D., ... & Howard, P. C. (2010). Lack of significant dermal penetration of titanium dioxide from sunscreen formulations containing nano-and submicron-size TiO2 particles. Toxicological Sciences, 115(1), 156-166.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Benzyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Preservative, External Analgesic

1. Definition Benzyl Alcohol:

Benzyl Alcohol is a clear, colorless liquid with a mild, pleasant aroma. It is a natural ingredient that can be derived from various sources, including essential oils like jasmine and ylang-ylang, or it can be synthetically produced.

2. Use:

Benzyl Alcohol is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. It is also used as a solvent, fragrance ingredient, and viscosity-decreasing agent in various skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

3. Usage Benzyl Alcohol:

When using Benzyl Alcohol in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended usage levels to ensure product safety and efficacy. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed Benzyl Alcohol safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 1%, with some exceptions. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but some people with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Benzyl Alcohol, especially if you have a history of skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoic Acid, and Sodium Benzoate. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-23.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/benzyl-alcohol

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 244, Benzyl Alcohol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzyl-alcohol

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Aluminum Hydroxide

Function: Humectant, Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Aluminum Hydroxide:

Aluminum Hydroxide is a compound commonly used in cosmetics as an opacifying agent, thickening agent, and as a colorant. It is a white, odorless, and non-toxic powder that is insoluble in water.

2. Use:

Aluminum Hydroxide is primarily used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and foundations. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, while also providing a matte finish to the skin. Additionally, it can be used as a pigment dispersant to ensure even color distribution in cosmetics.

3. Usage Aluminum Hydroxide:

When using cosmetics containing Aluminum Hydroxide, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. While Aluminum Hydroxide is considered safe for use in cosmetics by regulatory agencies, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Aluminum Hydroxide, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, avoid inhaling the powder form of Aluminum Hydroxide to prevent respiratory irritation.

4. References:

- "Aluminum Hydroxide in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety." Cosmetics Info. www.cosmeticsinfo.org.

- "Safety Assessment of Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review. www.cir-safety.org.

- "Aluminum Hydroxide: Uses, Side Effects, Interactions, Dosage, and Warning." WebMD. www.webmd.com.

Sodium Citrate

Other name: Sodium Acid Citrate

Function: Masking, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Chelating

1. Definition Sodium Citrate:

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits. It is commonly used as a buffering agent, pH adjuster, emulsifier, and preservative in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Sodium Citrate is used in cosmetics to help stabilize formulas, adjust the pH level of products, and enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients. It is often found in skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage Sodium Citrate:

When using products containing Sodium Citrate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Citrate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-citrate.

- "Sodium Citrate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-issues-cosmetic-products/sodium-citrate-in-cosmetics/.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate

Other name: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; Alkyl (C12-C15) benzoate; Dodecyl benzoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial

1. Definition C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an ester derived from benzoic acid and a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths ranging from 12 to 15. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent.

2. Use:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is utilized in various cosmetic formulations such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and makeup products. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, enhance skin feel, and provide a lightweight, non-greasy texture.

3. Usage C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

When using products containing C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and apply as directed on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before widespread use to ensure compatibility.

Precautions: While C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 14th Edition.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2003). Final report on the safety assessment of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). CIR Expert Panel Reaffirms Safety of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in Cosmetics.

Polysorbate 60

Other name: Tween 60; POE (20) Sorbitan monostearate; Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 60:

Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.

3. Usage Polysorbate 60:

When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.

Isononyl Isononanoate

Other name: SALACOS 99; Dermol 99; TEGOSOFT INI; WAGLINOL 1449

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Isononyl Isononanoate:

Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic ester derived from isononanol and nonanoic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isononyl Isononanoate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances their overall texture.

3. Usage Isononyl Isononanoate:

When using products containing Isononyl Isononanoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Isononyl Isononanoate" in CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Safety Assessment of Isononyl Isononanoate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Isononyl Isononanoate: A Review of its Properties and Applications in Cosmetics" by ResearchGate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Function: Emulsifying, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a synthetic ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It is derived from stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats.

2. Use:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a stabilizer to prevent the separation of ingredients in formulations. Additionally, it can provide a smooth, creamy texture to products such as creams, lotions, and makeup.

3. Usage Polyhydroxystearic Acid:

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any other cosmetic ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. However, it is always advisable to conduct a patch test before using products containing Polyhydroxystearic Acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyhydroxystearic-acid)

- "Polyhydroxystearic Acid in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Magazine (https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/10410/polyhydroxystearic-acid-in-cosmetics)

- "Safety Assessment of Polyhydroxystearic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polyhydroxystearic%20acid.pdf)

Sodium Pca

Other name: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

Isohexadecane

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is a synthetic hydrocarbon derived from petroleum that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and solvent. It is a clear, odorless liquid that helps to enhance the texture and spreadability of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Isohexadecane is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin. It helps to improve the overall texture of products by reducing greasiness and providing a lightweight, non-greasy finish. Isohexadecane also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients in formulations and improve the stability of the product.

3. Usage Isohexadecane:

Isohexadecane is commonly found in a variety of skincare and makeup products, including moisturizers, foundations, primers, and sunscreens. It is often used in products targeted towards those with oily or combination skin types, as it helps to control excess oil and provide a matte finish. Isohexadecane is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "Isohexadecane." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isohexadecane.

- "Isohexadecane." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isohexadecane/.

- "Isohexadecane." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/isohexadecane.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil

Other name: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the peel of oranges. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its refreshing and uplifting scent, as well as its skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Orange oil is used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a sweet and citrusy aroma to products such as lotions, creams, and perfumes. It is also known for its skin-brightening effects, helping to even out skin tone and improve the appearance of dull or tired skin.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil:

When using products containing Orange Oil, it is important to be mindful of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of skin to ensure compatibility. Orange oil is photosensitive, meaning it can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight and potentially cause sunburn. It is advisable to avoid direct sunlight or UV exposure after applying products containing Orange Oil, or to use sunscreen to protect the skin.

4. References:

- Chaudhary, S., & Kumar, V. (2018). Citrus essential oils: Current and prospective uses in the food industry. In Essential oils in food preservation, flavor and safety (pp. 211-224). Academic Press.

- Rehman, N., & Mehmood, T. (2019). Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) oil. In Essential oils in food preservation, flavor and safety (pp. 107-115). CRC Press.

- Rodrigues, F., & Pinto, D. (2019). Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) oil. In Essential oils in food preservation, flavor and safety (pp. 131-139). Springer.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Other name: VC-IP; Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate; Vitamin C Tetraisopalmitate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin.

2. Use:

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its anti-aging benefits, including reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, boosting collagen production, and protecting the skin from environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution.

3. Usage Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate:

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions, and can be applied directly to the skin after cleansing and toning. It is recommended to use products containing Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in the morning to help protect the skin throughout the day. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to patch test before using to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013;4(2):143-146. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. Published 2017 Aug 12. doi:10.3390/nu9080866

- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17. Published 2017 Jul.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Evening Primrose plant (Oenothera Biennis). It is rich in essential fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Evening Primrose Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its nourishing and hydrating benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Evening Primrose Oil is also used in hair care products to help strengthen and condition the hair.

3. Usage Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil can be used topically on the skin and hair. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using Evening Primrose Oil, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Evening Primrose Oil, especially for those with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Cheon, M. S., Yoon, T., Lee, D. Y., Choi, G., Moon, B. C., & Chun, J. M. (2014). Evening primrose oil and fish oil in non-alcoholic fatty liver disease: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 37(5), 634-643.

- Hajhashemi, V., & Vaseghi, G. (2018). Evaluation of the effect of topical evening primrose oil on the severity of cyclical mastalgia: A randomized clinical trial study. Complementary Therapies in Medicine, 38, 45-49.

- Senapati, S., & Dey, S. (2019). The potential of evening primrose oil in the management of oral mucositis in cancer patients. Journal of Cancer Research and Therapeutics, 15(6), 1192-1196.

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying, Surface Modifier

1. Definition Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate:

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate is a complex of isopropyl alcohol and titanium dioxide, combined with triisostearate. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pigment dispersant and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate is primarily used in makeup products such as foundations, eyeshadows, and lipsticks to improve the texture, spreadability, and color payoff. It helps to evenly distribute pigments and create a smooth, creamy consistency in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate:

When using Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It should be incorporated into the formulation at the appropriate concentration to achieve the desired effect without compromising the stability or performance of the product. It is advisable to conduct patch testing on a small area of skin before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation.

4. References:

- "Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isopropyl-titanium-triisostearate.

- Gao, Shuang et al. "Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate." PubChem, National Center for Biotechnology Information, pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Isopropyl-titanium-triisostearate.

- "Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/itrisost0314rep.pdf.

Glycolic Acid

Other name: Hydroxyacetic acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant

1. Definition Glycolic Acid:

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is known for its exfoliating properties and ability to penetrate the skin deeply, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Glycolic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and tone of the skin. It is often found in products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and peels.

3. Usage Glycolic Acid:

When using products containing glycolic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration to avoid irritation. It is recommended to gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using glycolic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: While glycolic acid can be beneficial for many skin types, it may not be suitable for those with sensitive skin or certain skin conditions. It is important to do a patch test before using products containing glycolic acid to check for any adverse reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., & Telegan, B. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135-142.

- Sharad, J. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6, 281-288.

See more: Unlocking the Power of Glycolic Acid in Skincare!!!

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Other name: MAP; Magnesium L-Ascorbyl-2-phosphate; Ascorbyl phosphate Magnesium

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and ability to brighten the skin. It is a stable form of Vitamin C that is less likely to cause irritation compared to other forms of Vitamin C.

2. Use:

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its various benefits on the skin. It helps to protect the skin from free radical damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more even skin tone. Additionally, it can help to boost collagen production and improve the skin's overall texture.

3. Usage Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate:

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions targeted towards brightening and anti-aging. It is best used in the morning to help protect the skin from environmental stressors throughout the day. To use, apply a small amount of product containing Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate onto clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. Follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen for added protection.

Precautions: While Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on the entire face to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the product instructions and not to exceed the recommended usage to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., Grichnik, J. M., Zielinski, J., Pinnell, S. R. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826–832. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Other name: Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside; AA2G

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Glucoside:

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable derivative of Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties and skin brightening effects.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Glucoside is used in cosmetics and skincare products to help protect the skin from free radical damage, promote collagen production, and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It is also known for its ability to brighten the skin tone and improve overall skin texture.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Glucoside:

Ascorbyl Glucoside is typically found in serums, creams, and lotions, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Ascorbyl Glucoside in the morning, as Vitamin C can help protect the skin from environmental damage and UV exposure. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to start with a lower concentration to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., Grichnik, J. M., Zielinski, J., Pinnell, S. R. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x

Phospholipids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phospholipids:

Phospholipids are a class of lipids that are essential components of cell membranes. They consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, which allows them to form a bilayer structure in cell membranes.

2. Use:

Phospholipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their emollient and moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate and protect the skin by forming a barrier that prevents moisture loss. Additionally, phospholipids can improve the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products.

3. Usage Phospholipids:

When using cosmetics containing phospholipids, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Rawlings, A. V. (2006). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(3), 167-173.

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., Park, H. J., & Kim, S. Y. (2014). Phospholipids in cosmetic: Friends or foes. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 31(10), 1739-1748.

- Bouwstra, J. A., & Ponec, M. (2006). The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta (BBA) - Biomembranes, 1758(12), 2080-2095.

Coconut Alkanes

Function: Solvent, Emollient

1. Definition Coconut Alkanes:

Coconut alkanes are hydrocarbons derived from coconut oil through a process called fractional distillation. They are commonly used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to silicones for their emollient and conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Coconut alkanes are used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, hair care products, and makeup to provide a silky smooth texture and enhance the spreadability of the product. They also help to improve the skin's barrier function and prevent moisture loss, making them ideal for dry and sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Coconut Alkanes:

When using products containing coconut alkanes, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and avoid applying them to broken or irritated skin. Coconut alkanes are generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with coconut allergies should exercise caution.

4. References:

- S. M. G. C. L. E. Silva, M. S. B. Oliveira, C. S. P. Silva, L. M. S. L. A. Silva, J. A. D. S. Sousa, A. C. S. C. Teixeira, & M. S. S. G. S. Costa. (2015). Coconut oil: What do we really know about it so far? Food Quality and Safety, 1(3), 107-115.

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Korać, R. R., & Khambholja, K. M. (2011). Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 5(10), 164-173.

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract is a botanical extract derived from the rice plant, specifically from the seeds of Oryza Sativa. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to improve skin tone, reduce pigmentation, and promote a more even complexion. Additionally, it has moisturizing and soothing effects on the skin, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, masks, and lotions. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To incorporate it into your skincare routine, apply products containing Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract onto clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product instructions.

4. References:

- Lee, H. S., Kim, Y. H., & Kim, S. Y. (2011). Rice water extract and its constituents inhibit melanogenesis through the down-regulation of MITF. Bioscience, biotechnology, and biochemistry, 75(3), 489-493.

- Jung, S. H., Kim, S. K., & Kim, Y. K. (2015). Anti-wrinkle and skin-moisturizing effects of rice extract. International journal of cosmetic science, 37(6), 579-585.

- Yoon, H. S., Hyun, C. G., & Kim, S. J. (2009). Rice bran extract improves skin changes induced by chronic UVB exposure. Journal of cosmetic science, 60(3), 321-328.

Saccharide Isomerate

Other name: Pentavin; Pentavitine

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Saccharide Isomerate:

Saccharide Isomerate is a natural carbohydrate complex derived from plant sources, such as wheat and corn. It is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Saccharide Isomerate is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, which helps to hydrate and moisturize the skin. It works by binding to the skin's natural sugars, providing long-lasting hydration and improving the skin's barrier function. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to improve skin hydration.

3. Usage Saccharide Isomerate:

When using skincare products containing Saccharide Isomerate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, products containing this ingredient can be applied to clean, dry skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is suitable for all skin types and can be used both in the morning and evening. However, as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kaur, I. P., & Rana, C. (2008). Saccharide isomerate: A natural but hygroscopic biomolecule. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30(2), 113-118.

- Lupo, M. P. (2010). Understanding, preventing, and treating dry skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 63(2), 124-140.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Moisturizers: An overview. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 18(7), 633-637.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the peel of oranges. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that can benefit the skin.

2. Use:

Orange peel extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has a refreshing citrus scent that can uplift the senses.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract:

Orange peel extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and cleansers. It is typically included in formulations at a concentration of 1-5%. When using products containing orange peel extract, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is also recommended to use sunscreen during the day as citrus extracts can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, D. S., Kim, Y. C., & Kim, S. Y. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effects of orange peel extract and its bioactive compounds on atopic dermatitis-like skin inflammation. Phytotherapy Research, 27(8), 1133-1138.

- Manosroi, A., Jantrawut, P., & Akazawa, H. (2010). Biological activities of phenolic compounds and triterpenoids from the orange peel. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 32(4), 339-345.

- Chularojanamontri, L., Tuchinda, P., Kulthanan, K., & Pongparit, K. (2014). Moisturizers for acne: What are their constituents?. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 7(5), 36-44.

Zinc Pca

Other name: Zinc Complex L-PCA; Zn PCA; Zinc L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Zinc Pca:

Zinc Pca (Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid) is a compound that combines Zinc with L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties.

2. Use:

Zinc Pca is primarily used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is known for its ability to help control excess oil production, reduce acne and blemishes, and soothe irritated skin. Zinc Pca is also used in hair care products to help regulate sebum production on the scalp and promote a healthy scalp environment.

3. Usage Zinc Pca:

When using products containing Zinc Pca, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to their face or body. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Zinc Pca and gradually increase the usage if needed. Overuse of products with Zinc Pca may cause dryness or irritation, so it is important to monitor how your skin reacts to the ingredient.

4. References:

- Draelos ZD. Essential fatty acids in dermatology. J Drugs Dermatol. 2010;9(6): 669-673.

- Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R, Rafiee E, Mehrabian A, Feily A. Skin wound healing and phytomedicine: a review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-310.

- Brandt S. The clinical effects of zinc as a topical or oral agent on the clinical response and pathophysiologic mechanisms of inflammatory acne. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(5):542-545.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is a modified form of cyclodextrin, a group of compounds derived from starch. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and encapsulating agent due to its ability to improve the solubility and stability of poorly soluble ingredients.

2. Use:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is primarily used in cosmetics to enhance the delivery of active ingredients, improve the stability of formulations, and increase the solubility of hydrophobic compounds. It can also help to mask unpleasant odors and flavors in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

When using Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% in formulations, depending on the specific application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7304052/

- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28212917/

- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144861717302385

Oleanolic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Oleanolic Acid:

Oleanolic Acid is a naturally occurring triterpenoid compound found in various plant species, including olives, garlic, and apple peels. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Oleanolic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce inflammation, protect against free radicals, and promote collagen production, leading to improved skin texture and tone.

3. Usage Oleanolic Acid:

Oleanolic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be applied topically to the skin to target specific concerns like acne, wrinkles, and sun damage. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Oleanolic Acid into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Sultana, S., Asif, H. M., Nazar, H. M., & Akhtar, N. (2019). Oleanolic acid: a novel cardioprotective agent. Journal of Pharmacopuncture, 22(4), 204-209.

- Wang, X., & Zhang, L. (2019). Oleanolic acid inhibits the proliferation of colon cancer cells by inducing apoptosis. Journal of BUON, 24(4), 1536-1541.

- Park, S., Lee, D. K., Yang, C. H., & Lee, H. Y. (2019). Oleanolic acid inhibits inflammatory mediators by suppressing redox-based NF-κB and MAPKs activation in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated human dental pulp cells. European Journal of Pharmacology, 859, 172528.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38

Other name: Matrixyl Synthe’6

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked to a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is known for its ability to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin. This helps to improve skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration, leading to a more youthful appearance. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and treatments designed to target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

When using products containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product consistently as part of a skincare routine to see optimal results. However, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2017). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 30(5), e12463.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not. Dermatologic Clinics, 25(3), 357-364.

Peg 60 Almond Glycerides

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Peg 60 Almond Glycerides:

Peg 60 Almond Glycerides is a polyethylene glycol derivative of almond oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Peg 60 Almond Glycerides is primarily used in skincare and hair care products as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin and hair by removing dirt and impurities.

3. Usage Peg 60 Almond Glycerides:

Peg 60 Almond Glycerides is typically found in creams, lotions, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is used in small concentrations, usually around 1-5% in formulations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Peg 60 Almond Glycerides to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "PEG-60 Almond Glycerides." SpecialChem, www.specialchem.com/inci/peg-60-almond-glycerides. Accessed 20 Oct. 2021.

- Barel, Andre O., et al. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press, 2014.

- Loden, Marie, and Howard I. Maibach. Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press, 2000.

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Echium plantagineum, also known as purple viper's bugloss. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, including omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9, as well as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, reduce inflammation, and promote skin regeneration. This oil is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin, and can help to soothe and calm irritated skin.

3. Usage Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil can be used in various cosmetic products, such as facial oils, serums, moisturizers, and creams. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other carrier oils or ingredients. To use, simply apply a few drops of the oil to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Simopoulos, A. P. (2002). Omega-3 fatty acids in inflammation and autoimmune diseases. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 21(6), 495-505.

- Oomah, B. D., Ladet, S., Godfrey, D. V., Liang, J., & Girard, B. (2000). Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil. Food Chemistry, 69(2), 187-193.

- Ryan, A. S., & Astwood, J. D. (2007). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Echium oil. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 26(4), 388-394.

Melatonin

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Melatonin:

Melatonin is a hormone naturally produced by the pineal gland in the brain that regulates sleep-wake cycles. In recent years, melatonin has gained popularity in the cosmetic industry for its potential anti-aging and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Melatonin is used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is believed to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce signs of aging, and promote skin repair and regeneration. Melatonin is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Melatonin:

When using cosmetics containing melatonin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to use it as part of a regular skincare routine. Some individuals may experience sensitivity to melatonin, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face. It is also important to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating melatonin into your skincare regimen, especially if you have any underlying skin conditions or concerns.

4. References:

- Gomes, A. P., Duarte, I. D., & Perez, A. C. (2014). Potential use of melatonin in skin cancer treatment: a review. Expert Review of Anticancer Therapy, 14(8), 957-965.

- Fischer, T. W., et al. (2001). Melatonin enhances antioxidative enzyme gene expression (CAT, GPx, SOD), prevents their UVR-induced depletion, and protects against the formation of DNA damage (8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine) in ex vivo human skin. Journal of Pineal Research, 31(3), 236-240.

- Kleszczynski, K., Tukaj, S., & Kruse, N. (2016). The use of melatonin in skin care formulations: clinical and in vitro approaches. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 29(3), 147-158.

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid:

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid (NDGA) is a natural phenolic compound derived from the creosote bush. It is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

NDGA is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and oxidative damage. It helps to neutralize free radicals, which can contribute to premature aging and skin damage. NDGA is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective in soothing irritated skin and reducing redness.

3. Usage Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid:

NDGA is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. When using products containing NDGA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- González-Castejón, M., & Rodriguez-Casado, A. (2011). Dietary phytochemicals and their potential effects on obesity: a review. Pharmacological research, 64(5), 438-455.

- Nam, S., Smith, D. M., & Dou, Q. P. (2001). Tannic acid potently inhibits tumor cell proteasome activity, increases p27 and Bax expression, and induces G1 arrest and apoptosis. Cancer epidemiology, biomarkers & prevention, 10(10), 1083-1088.

- Lee, J. W., Lee, S. Y., & Seo, J. S. (2019). Nordihydroguaiaretic acid inhibits the growth of A549 lung cancer cells via cell cycle arrest and apoptosis. Molecular medicine reports, 19(4), 3041-3050.

Sphingolipids

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids are a class of lipids that contain a sphingoid base, a fatty acid, and a polar head group. They are essential components of cell membranes and play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Sphingolipids are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and barrier repair properties. They help to strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental stressors. Sphingolipids also have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Sphingolipids:

Sphingolipids can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, especially for those with dry or sensitive skin. When using products containing sphingolipids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Hannun YA, Obeid LM. Principles of bioactive lipid signalling: lessons from sphingolipids. Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol. 2008;9(2):139-150. doi:10.1038/nrm2329

- Uchida Y. Ceramide signaling in mammalian epidermis. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2014;1841(3):453-462. doi:10.1016/j.bbalip.2013.09.011

- Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, Caputo R, Carelli S, Ghidoni R. Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1993;1182(2):147-151. doi:10.1016/0005-2760(93)90122-v

Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate:

Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics as a photostabilizer and UV filter. It is a derivative of benzophenone and malonic acid, designed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation.

2. Use:

Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate is primarily used in sunscreens and other skincare products to enhance their photoprotective properties. It helps to prevent sunburn, skin aging, and skin cancer by absorbing and reflecting UV rays before they can penetrate the skin.

3. Usage Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate:

When using products containing Bis Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. Apply the sunscreen generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours, or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours, and to wear protective clothing and accessories in addition to sunscreen.

4. References:

- Wang, S. Q., et al. (2011). Photoprotection: A review of the current and future technologies. Dermatologic Therapy, 24(1), 31-42.

- Chatelain, E., Gabard, B., & Surber, C. (2003). Skin penetration and sun protection factor of five UV filters: Effect of the vehicle. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 16(1), 28-35.

- Gonzalez, H., & Tarras-Wahlberg, N. (2010). Sunscreens: A review of health benefits, regulations, and controversies. The Scientific World Journal, 10, 661-682.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Other name: tocopherols; tocopherol; vit e; α-tocopherol; alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol (Vitamin E):

Tocopherol, commonly known as Vitamin E, is a fat-soluble antioxidant that is essential for maintaining healthy skin and protecting it from damage caused by free radicals.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is widely used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. It is also known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Tocopherol (Vitamin E):

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens. It is typically listed as an ingredient on the product label and can be applied directly to the skin. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to tocopherol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lin, F.-H., Lin, J.-Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., … & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.

- Thiele, J. J., Hsieh, S. N., Briviba, K., Sies, H. (1999). Protein oxidation in human stratum corneum: susceptibility of keratins to oxidation in vitro and presence of a keratin oxidation gradient in vivo. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 113(3), 335-339.

- Nachbar, F., Korting, H. C. (1995). The role of vitamin E in normal and damaged skin. Journal of Molecular Medicine, 73(1), 7-17.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

Other name: Olea Europaea Fruit; Olive Fruit

Function:

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is a natural oil extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and body lotions. Olive oil helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive or acne-prone skin may want to use it cautiously. Olive oil can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients in DIY skincare recipes.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- P. Konstantinidou, et al. (2010). "In vivo nutrigenomic effects of virgin olive oil polyphenols within the frame of the Mediterranean diet: a randomized controlled trial." The FASEB Journal.

- A. Ghanbari, et al. (2012). "Olive oil and cancer." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other name: Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; (Eau D'Hamamelis) Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.

3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.

- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer

- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is rich in linoleic acid, which is known for its moisturizing and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Safflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, making it an excellent ingredient for moisturizing and nourishing the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like conditioners and hair masks.

3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Safflower seed oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using safflower seed oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70.

- Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne--results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-79.

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract:

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract is a botanical extract derived from the roots of the Boerhavia diffusa plant, also known as Punarnava. This plant is native to India and has been traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-brightening properties.

2. Use:

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its various benefits. It is known to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and promote overall skin health. The extract is also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. Additionally, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract is believed to have skin-brightening properties, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

3. Usage Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract:

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is often included in formulations targeting sensitive or irritated skin, as well as products designed to improve skin tone and texture. When using products containing Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Gupta, R. (2013). Boerhavia diffusa: A review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Medicine, 6(12), 864-871.

- Kumar, S., & Malhotra, R. (2012). Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of Boerhavia diffusa L. in an experimental model of pancreatitis. Journal of Herbal Medicine and Toxicology, 6(2), 85-91.

- Kaur, R., & Gupta, S. (2017). Punarnava (Boerhavia diffusa) in the management of various health conditions: An overview. Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics, 7(5), 126-132.

Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer:

Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer is a copolymer derived from a combination of acrylates and carbamates. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent and viscosity increasing agent.

2. Use:

Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to create a smooth and even application, as well as providing a protective barrier on the skin. This copolymer is often found in products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer:

When using products containing Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. Additionally, it is recommended to avoid getting the product in contact with the eyes or mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer as Used in Cosmetics" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2019.

- "Acrylates/ Carbamate Copolymer" Personal Care Council, https://www.personalcarecouncil.org.

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Carbamate Copolymer-Based Hydrogels for Topical Delivery of Nifedipine" Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology, 2019.

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a lightweight, fast-absorbing ingredient that helps to hydrate and soften the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

2. Use:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to improve the spreadability of formulations and provides a silky smooth texture to the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients, helping them to penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

When using products containing Coco Caprylate/ Caprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate/Caprate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylatecaprate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/coco-caprylate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Skin Deep, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706751-COCO-CAPRYLATE/