Earth Science Azulene Eye Cream

Earth Science

INGREDIENTS

Water

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract

Glycerin

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Palmitic Acid

Guaiazulene

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract

Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract

Allantoin

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Pca

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract

Niacinamide

Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Beeswax

Castor Oil

Arachidic Acid

Stearic Acid

Myristic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Fragrance

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

Quick product notes

(Click on icon for more information)

Quick product notes serve as a convenient method to determine if a product aligns with the preferences of skincare enthusiasts by being free from commonly avoided ingredients. These preferences arise due to various factors, including personal experiences, sensitivities, health considerations, and more.

Paraben free

Sulfate free

Alcohol free

Silicone free

Fungal Acne Safe

EU Allergent Free

Key Ingredients

Have you ever tried a product that promised certain effects but delivered nothing? It might have lacked key ingredients necessary for those promised results. Despite marketing claims, if a product lacks beneficial components, its efficacy is questionable.

We help you identify key ingredients known for effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV protection, and anti-aging, assisting you in making smarter skincare choices. Keep in mind that the effectiveness of key ingredients can vary; while some are well-proven, others have mixed research behind them.

Anti Aging from (1) Ingredient:

Niacinamide

Promotes Wound Healing from (1) Ingredient:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Brightening from (1) Ingredient:

Niacinamide

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click the arrows next to Skin Type! Green = Good & Red = Bad

Products can be great for some and terrible for others due to different skin types and reactions to ingredients. We've identified ingredients suitable for dry, oily, and sensitive skin types.

Dry skin

Sodium Pca

Low Risk

Glycerin

Low Risk

Oily Skin

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

High Risk

Stearic Acid

High Risk

Myristic Acid

High Risk

Palmitic Acid

High Risk

Allantoin

Low Risk

Sensitive skin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

High Risk

Allantoin

Low Risk

Oil skin

None

Ingredient Safety Breakdown (EWG Health Ratings)

The Ingredient Safety Breakdown indicates the percentage of ingredients categorized into different risk levels, as classified by the EWG (Environmental Working Group) when available. With numerous cosmetic ingredients in existence, the EWG is one of the few organizations globally that assigns ratings to many commonly used ingredients, making it a valuable reference point.

Low risk

Moderate risk

High risk

Unknown

85%

INGREDIENT LIST

(Display the first 5 ingredients from a list of 34 ingredient)

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil (Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil	Promotes Wound Healing Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Cetyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
2	B	Cetearyl Glucoside (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract
1	A	Palmitic Acid (Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Sufactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 4		Guaiazulene (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Colorant)
1		Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent, Refreshing)
1		Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Exclusive)
1		Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 3	B	Sodium Lactate (Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic)
1	B	Sodium Pca (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin
2 4	B	Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract (Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
		Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract (Keratolytic)
1	A	Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil (Emollient, Deodorant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract (Skin Conditioning, Moisturising)
1		Cola Acuminata Seed Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Beeswax (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2	A	Castor Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Arachidic Acid (Emulsifying, Opacifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Myristic Acid (Perfuming, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Sufactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin

INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED Earth Science Azulene Eye Cream

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitoleic acid, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Macadamia Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it ideal for dry or mature skin types. The oil also has antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. In hair care products, Macadamia Seed Oil can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it shiny and more manageable.

3. Usage Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In hair care products, the oil can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to help improve the overall health and appearance of the hair. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing Macadamia Seed Oil to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2017). "Macadamia nut oil." Wiley Online Library.

- G. M. Cragg, D. J. Newman, and J. B. Kingston. (2011). "Anticancer Agents from Natural Products." CRC Press.

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is rich in linoleic acid, which is known for its moisturizing and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Safflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, making it an excellent ingredient for moisturizing and nourishing the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like conditioners and hair masks.

3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Safflower seed oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using safflower seed oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70.

- Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne--results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-79.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive

1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and lip balms due to its lightweight texture and non-greasy feel. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is also beneficial for hair care products, as it can help condition and strengthen the hair.

3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

When using products containing Jojoba Seed Oil Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or used as an ingredient in DIY beauty recipes. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to nuts or seeds should use caution.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." 7th Edition.

- Dweck, A. C. (2003). "The Jojoba Story." Personal Care Magazine, 4(1), 1-4.

- Meier, L., & Sticher, O. (2004). "Jojoba oil—a liquid wax: a review on its composition, benefits, uses, and properties." Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 14(1), 1-6.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Cetyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.

3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.

4. References:

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)

- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Function:

1. Definition Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the Japanese Honeysuckle plant. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to calm and soothe the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, this extract is rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging.

3. Usage Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract:

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, applied to clean skin before moisturizer. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Kim, S. S., Oh, T. H., & Kim, S. K. (2006). Lonicera japonica Thunb. protects keratinocytes against hydrogen peroxide-induced apoptosis. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 104(2-3), 276-281.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Lee, J. S. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effect of Lonicera japonica in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Korean Medicine, 36(3), 88-97.

- Zhang, Y. J., Huang, Z. Q., & Zhang, Y. (2019). Lonicera japonica Thunb: ethnopharmacology, phytochemistry and pharmacology of an important traditional Chinese medicine. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 245, 112158.

Palmitic Acid

Other name: C16; Palmitic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Sufactant

1. Definition Palmitic Acid:

Palmitic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in both animals and plants. It is a major component of the lipid layer of the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Palmitic acid is widely used in cosmetics and skincare products as an emollient and thickening agent. It helps to soften and moisturize the skin, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and moisturizers. Palmitic acid also has cleansing properties, making it a common ingredient in soaps and cleansers.

3. Usage Palmitic Acid:

Palmitic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken when using products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying products with palmitic acid to the entire face or body, especially for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Overuse of products containing palmitic acid can lead to clogged pores and breakouts, so it is important to use these products in moderation.

4. References:

- Sivakumar, G., & Sivakumar, R. (2016). Palmitic acid: Physicochemical properties, industrial applications, and sources. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 93(2), 197-212.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

Guaiazulene

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition Guaiazulene:

Guaiazulene is a natural blue-colored compound derived from chamomile oil or the essential oil of the guaiac tree. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Guaiazulene is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and reduce redness in the skin. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or irritated skin, such as serums, creams, and masks. Guaiazulene is also used in hair care products to promote a healthy scalp and reduce inflammation.

3. Usage Guaiazulene:

When using products containing Guaiazulene, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. Guaiazulene is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to chamomile or the guaiac tree should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results and to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, S., Lee, Y., & Kim, S. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effects of Guaiazulene and its cellular and molecular mechanisms. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(2), 146-150.

- Lee, J., Choi, J., Kim, E., & Kim, S. (2017). Guaiazulene inhibits the inflammatory response in UVB-exposed fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Journal of Dermatological Science, 88(3), 365-373.

- Park, J., Lee, J., Park, J., & Kim, S. (2019). Guaiazulene protects against skin barrier damage in a mouse model of atopic dermatitis. Experimental Dermatology, 28(6), 663-668.

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Astringent, Refreshing

1. Definition Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract:

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the bilberry plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have been shown to have various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Bilberry extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radical damage and premature aging. It also has anti-inflammatory and astringent properties, making it beneficial for soothing and toning the skin. Additionally, bilberry extract is known to improve skin texture and promote a more even skin tone.

3. Usage Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract:

Bilberry extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing bilberry extract, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products with bilberry extract regularly as part of a skincare routine for optimal results.

4. References:

- Kawaii, S., Tomono, Y., Katase, E., and Ogawa, K. (2000). Antiproliferative activity of the main constituents from Phyllanthus emblica. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 23(11), 1340-1343.

- Jang, D. S., Cuendet, M., Hawthorne, M. E., Parnell, L. D., and Mehta, R. G. (2003). Peonidin 3-glucoside, a polyphenol from Vaccinium myrtillus, inhibits UVB-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT keratinocytes. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 26(10), 1404-1408.

- Martz, R. M., and Glickman, R. D. (1999). Bilberry fruit extract for night vision. A pilot study. Journal of Medicinal Food, 2(1), 47-50.

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Exclusive

1. Definition Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from apples. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-aging, and brightening properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract:

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%. To use, apply the product containing the extract onto clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's instructions. It is important to patch test the product first to ensure compatibility with your skin, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., Lee, S. Y., Son, D. J., Lee, H., Yoo, H. S., Song, S., . . . Hong, J. T. (2013). Inhibitory effect of ursolic acid purified from Origanum majorana L. on the acetylcholinesterase. Molecules, 18(7), 8409-8416.

- Kim, J. H., Kim, Y. H., Song, G. G., & Park, J. J. (2016). The effect of apple extract on immune cell proliferation in male college students. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 45(5), 731-736.

- Kim, M. J., Lee, H. J., & Kim, J. K. (2018). Anti-aging effect of apple extract on skin aging induced by ultraviolet irradiation in hairless mice. Journal of the Korean Society of Cosmetology, 24(3), 513-522.

Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract

Other name: Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract; Lentil Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract:

Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from lentils, which are legumes known for their high protein and fiber content. Lentil extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that can benefit the skin.

2. Use:

Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It can help to hydrate the skin, reduce redness and irritation, and protect against environmental stressors. Lentil extract is also known for its ability to improve skin texture and tone, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and brightening products.

3. Usage Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract:

Lentil extract can be found in various skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is suitable for all skin types. To use products containing Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a sunscreen during the day to protect the skin from UV damage.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Lentil: An Ancient Crop for Modern Times. CRC Press.

- Chaudhary, K., & Sharma, A. K. (2014). Lentil: An Ancient Crop for Modern Times. CRC Press.

Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract:

Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the fruit of the watermelon plant. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Watermelon fruit extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, soothing, and antioxidant properties. It helps to moisturize the skin, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental stressors. Watermelon extract is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract:

Watermelon fruit extract can be found in various cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, and serums. It is typically used as an ingredient in formulations designed to hydrate, soothe, and protect the skin. To use products containing watermelon extract, simply apply them to clean, dry skin as directed on the packaging. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer to ensure the best results and avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, Y. H., & Kim, J. H. (2015). Anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antioxidant activities of the fruit extract of watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris) in mice. Food Science and Biotechnology, 24(1), 179-184.

- Park, J. H., Choi, Y. H., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Anti-aging effect of watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris) on skin by reducing inflammation and oxidative stress in hairless mice. Food Science and Biotechnology, 25(5), 1421-1427.

- Kaur, G., & Kaur, J. (2019). Watermelon (Citrullus vulgaris) as a potential cosmeceutical: A review. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 8(1), 2503-2506.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Sodium Lactate

Other name: L-Sodium Lactate

Function: Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic

1. Definition Sodium Lactate:

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of natural Lactic Acid, a humectant and pH regulator commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid that is water-soluble and has a slightly salty taste.

2. Use:

Sodium Lactate is primarily used in skincare products for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by smoothing out rough patches and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Sodium Lactate:

When using products containing Sodium Lactate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Sodium Lactate to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to store products containing Sodium Lactate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- S. Wang, J. Li, R. Dong, J. Zhao, L. Zhang, "Sodium Lactate: A Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Mild Steel in Aqueous Solutions", Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, 2018.

- M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, M. M. El-Mehasseb, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

- M. M. El-Mehasseb, M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

Sodium Pca

Other name: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the sweet orange fruit. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Orange fruit extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks for its ability to improve skin tone and texture. It can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging. Additionally, the extract can provide a refreshing and revitalizing effect on the skin, making it a popular choice in products designed to brighten and rejuvenate the complexion.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess how your skin responds. It is also advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products with orange fruit extract, as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 57, 225-232.

- Kaur, G., et al. (2014). Skin lightening and anti-aging effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract: A randomized controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 218-224.

- Ribeiro, A. S., et al. (2018). Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract as a natural antioxidant in cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(4), 370-376.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract

Function: Keratolytic

1. Definition Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract:

Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract is derived from the sap of the Sugar Maple tree, scientifically known as Acer Saccharum. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Sugar Maple Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating, exfoliating, and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, it has soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract:

Sugar Maple Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and exfoliants. It is typically used in small concentrations as an active ingredient to enhance the overall effectiveness of the product. When using products containing Sugar Maple Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Zhang, J., Wang, Z., & Hu, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of Acer saccharum L. extract. Journal of Functional Foods, 52, 415-423.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, D. S., & Kang, S. (2017). Anti-aging effects of Acer saccharum extract on human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(2), 160-166.

- Chen, Y., & Chen, J. (2016). Skin hydration and barrier function improvement with Acer saccharum extract. Journal of Dermatological Science, 83(3), 198-204.

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

Function: Emollient, Deodorant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil:

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Meadowfoam Seed Oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating dry skin and hair. It helps to lock in moisture, leaving the skin and hair soft and smooth. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil:

Meadowfoam Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and lip balms. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other oils and ingredients to create customized beauty products. When using Meadowfoam Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin should consult with a dermatologist before using it.

4. References:

- Kim, H., & Moon, E. (2017). Effect of limnanthes alba seed oil on skin barrier function. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 137(5), S197.

- Reis, L. (2019). Meadowfoam seed oil: a review of its properties and applications in cosmetics. Cosmetics, 6(1), 16.

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Moisturising

1. Definition Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract:

Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the sugar cane plant. It is rich in glycolic acid, minerals, and vitamins, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

2. Use:

Sugar Cane Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. Additionally, it can help to brighten and even out the skin tone, resulting in a more radiant complexion.

3. Usage Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract:

Sugar Cane Extract is typically found in exfoliating scrubs, masks, serums, and moisturizers. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging to avoid over-exfoliating the skin, which can lead to irritation and sensitivity. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage as needed.

Precautions: While Sugar Cane Extract is generally considered safe for most skin types, individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or redness. It is always a good idea to perform a patch test before using a product containing Sugar Cane Extract to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is important to use sunscreen when using products with exfoliating ingredients to protect the skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Sharma, N., & Gupta, A. (2016). Saccharum officinarum (Sugarcane): A comprehensive review. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 10(19), 153–159. https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.194040

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., & Gianeti, M. D. (2015). Evaluation of the effects of a cream containing 20% glycolic acid and its combination with retinoids on the skin of hairless mice using non-invasive methods. Skin Research and Technology, 21(2), 167–173. https://doi.org/10.1111/srt.12186

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Cola Acuminata Seed Extract:

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract is an extract derived from the seeds of the Cola Acuminata tree, also known as the kola nut tree. This tree is native to West Africa and produces seeds that are rich in caffeine and other beneficial compounds.

2. Use:

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its stimulating and toning properties. It is known to help improve circulation, reduce puffiness, and brighten the skin. Additionally, the caffeine content in the extract can help to tighten and firm the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.

3. Usage Cola Acuminata Seed Extract:

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and eye treatments. It can be applied directly to the skin or incorporated into various formulations. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Akubugwo, I. E., Obasi, N. A., & Chinyere, G. C. (2007). Nutritional and chemical value of Cola nitida and Cola acuminata seeds. African Journal of Biotechnology, 6(13), 1546-1553.

- Olaleye, M. T., Akinmoladun, A. C., & Ogunboye, A. A. (2008). Antioxidant activity and hepatoprotective property of leaf extracts of Cola acuminata, an underutilized cola nut tree species. Pakistan Journal of Biological Sciences, 11(10), 1368-1374.

- Ogunlade, I., & Ogunlade, B. (2014). Phytochemical and antimicrobial studies on the seeds of Cola acuminata and Cola nitida. Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 8(1), 1-6.

Beeswax

Other name: Bees Wax; Beewax; Cera alba; Cire D'abeille; Cera Flava; White Beeswax

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Beeswax:

Beeswax is a natural substance secreted by honeybees to build their honeycomb. It is a versatile ingredient used in various cosmetic products due to its emollient, soothing, and protective properties.

2. Use:

Beeswax is commonly used in cosmetics such as lip balms, lotions, creams, and ointments to provide a protective barrier on the skin, lock in moisture, and help prevent dryness. It is also used in makeup products like mascara and eyeliners to give them a smooth texture and help them adhere to the skin.

3. Usage Beeswax:

When using cosmetics containing beeswax, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies to bee products. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product for the first time to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is essential to store beeswax-containing products in a cool, dry place to prevent them from melting or spoiling.

4. References:

- Eteraf-Oskouei, T., & Najafi, M. (2013). Traditional and modern uses of natural honey in human diseases: a review. Iranian Journal of Basic Medical Sciences, 16(6), 731–742. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3758027/

- Boukhatem, M. N., Kameli, A., Ferhat, M. A., & Saidi, F. (2014). The effect of essential oils on weight loss and lipid profile: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 54(5), 590–596. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24174305/

- Williams, S., Tamburic, S., & Lally, C. (2012). Eating chocolate can significantly protect the skin from UV light. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 11(2), 104–113. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22639943/

Castor Oil

Other name: Ricinus Communis Oil; Ricinus Communis Seed Oil; Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Castor Oil:

Castor oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the castor bean plant, scientifically known as Ricinus communis. It is a thick, pale yellow liquid with a distinct odor and is widely used in various industries, including cosmetics.

2. Use:

Castor oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is rich in fatty acids, particularly ricinoleic acid, which helps to hydrate and nourish the skin. Castor oil is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and lip balms, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage Castor Oil:

When using castor oil in cosmetics, it is important to patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. To use castor oil on the skin, simply apply a small amount to the desired area and gently massage it in. For hair care, castor oil can be applied to the scalp and hair, left on for a period of time, and then washed out with shampoo. It is important to note that castor oil is a thick oil and may be too heavy for some skin types, so it is recommended to use it sparingly or mix it with lighter oils.

4. References:

- Gavamukulya, Y., Abou-Elella, F., Wamunyokoli, F., & AEl-Shemy, H. (2014). Phytochemical, pharmacological and industrial potential of Ricinus communis Linn: A review. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 8(16), 157-162.

- Vieira, C., Evangelista, S., Cirillo, R., Lippi, A., & Maggi, C. A. (2001). Evaluation of ricinoleic acid esters in topical preparations for hair growth in mice. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 52(6), 321-326.

- Patel, V. R., Dumancas, G. G., Kasi Viswanath, L. C., Maples, R., Subong, B. J. J., & Castanares, M. (2016). Castor oil: Properties, uses, and optimization of processing parameters in commercial production. Lipid Insights, 9, 1-12.

Arachidic Acid

Other name: icosanoic acid; Eicosanoic acid

Function: Emulsifying, Opacifying

1. Definition Arachidic Acid:

Arachidic acid is a saturated fatty acid that belongs to the group of long-chain fatty acids. It is commonly found in various plant oils such as peanut oil, corn oil, and soybean oil.

2. Use:

Arachidic acid is often used in cosmetics as an emollient and thickening agent. It helps to moisturize the skin and improve its texture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums.

3. Usage Arachidic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing arachidic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- "Arachidic Acid." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/arachidic-acid.

- Kaur, Navneet, et al. "Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Cream Containing Arachidic Acid for Its Wound Healing Potential." Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, vol. 7, no. 1, 2018, pp. 293-296.

- Gaurav, K., and R. K. Dhawan. "Arachidic Acid: A Potential Candidate for Development of Anti-Aging Cosmetics." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, 2020, pp. 279-285.

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Myristic Acid

Other name: C14; Tetradecanoic Fatty Acid

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Myristic Acid:

Myristic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and nutmeg. It is a white, waxy solid with a faint odor and is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and cleansing properties.

2. Use:

Myristic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and hydrate the skin. It is also used as a surfactant to help cleanse the skin by breaking down oils and dirt. Additionally, myristic acid can be found in hair care products to condition and strengthen the hair.

3. Usage Myristic Acid:

Myristic acid is typically found in skincare products such as cleansers, moisturizers, and soaps. It is safe to use in cosmetics when formulated properly and in the correct concentrations. However, it is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions to myristic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lautenschläger, H. (2010). Myristic Acid. Retrieved from https://www.skincarisma.com/ingredients/myristic-acid

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., & Bagherani, N. (2014). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(7), 784-790.

- Mukherjee, S., & Date, A. (2011). Patented sunscreen compositions based on natural materials. Recent Patents on Drug Delivery & Formulation, 5(1), 1-10.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.