Full ingredients list ESPA Regenerating Moisture Complex

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil (Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Camellia Kissi Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Polyglyceryl 3 Stearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1		Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	B	Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
1	A	Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter (Skin Conditioning)
2		Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
1		Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract	Acne fighting
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
4 6	B	Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
2	A	Sorbic Acid (Fragrance, Preservative)
1		Levulinic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance)
1		P Anisic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)
1		Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil (Masking)
1		Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
2		Phytic Acid (Chelating Agent)
1		Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil (Masking, Perfuming, Flavoring Agent)
1		Sodium Levulinate (Skin Conditioning)
2 4	B	Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract (Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Maltodextrin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
3 5		Geraniol (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)	Allergen
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
1	B	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic)	Good for oily skin
1		Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract (Skin Protecting)
3 5		Citral (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)	Allergen
2		Beta Carotene (Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract (Perfuming)
1		Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
3 4		Farnesol (Solvent, Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance, Soothing)	Allergen
1	A	Ascorbyl Palmitate (Masking, Antioxidant)	Fungal Acne Trigger

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the nuts of the Macadamia tree. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitoleic acid, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Macadamia Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it ideal for dry or mature skin types. The oil also has antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging. In hair care products, Macadamia Seed Oil can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it shiny and more manageable.

3. Usage Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil:

Macadamia Seed Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In hair care products, the oil can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to help improve the overall health and appearance of the hair. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new product containing Macadamia Seed Oil to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (2017). "Macadamia nut oil." Wiley Online Library.

- G. M. Cragg, D. J. Newman, and J. B. Kingston. (2011). "Anticancer Agents from Natural Products." CRC Press.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sweet almonds. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sweet Almond Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil:

Sweet Almond Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to lotions, creams, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. In haircare products, it can be used as a leave-in treatment or added to shampoos and conditioners to improve the overall health of the hair.

Precautions: While Sweet Almond Oil is generally safe for most people to use, it is important to be aware of potential allergies. Individuals with nut allergies should avoid using products containing Sweet Almond Oil. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using any new cosmetic product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Balakrishnan, A., & Menon, S. (2011). Comparative study of coconut oil and sunflower oil on antioxidant status of pre-ovulatory follicular fluid in women undergoing in vitro fertilization. Journal of Human Reproductive Sciences, 4(1), 24–28.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Ahmad, Z. (2010). The uses and properties of almond oil. Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice, 16(1), 10–12.

Camellia Kissi Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Camellia Kissi Seed Oil:

Camellia Kissi Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Camellia Kissi tree, which is native to Africa. It is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Camellia Kissi Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and soften the skin. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as oleic acid, which help to maintain the skin's moisture barrier and prevent dryness. Additionally, it contains antioxidants that protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Camellia Kissi Seed Oil:

Camellia Kissi Seed Oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to creams, lotions, and serums to enhance their hydrating properties. It can also be used in haircare products to nourish and condition the hair, leaving it soft and shiny. When using Camellia Kissi Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent it from going rancid.

4. References:

- Akihisa, T., et al. (2007). Triterpene alcohols from the seeds of Camellia Kissi. Journal of Natural Products, 70(8), 1267-1270.

- Fujii, H., et al. (2014). Chemical composition and antioxidant activity of Camellia Kissi seed oil. Journal of Oleo Science, 63(10), 1045-1053.

- Kikugawa, M., et al. (2019). Effects of Camellia Kissi seed oil on skin hydration and barrier function. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(6), 1582-1587.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Polyglyceryl 3 Stearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Stearate:

Polyglyceryl 3 Stearate is an emulsifier derived from natural sources, specifically a combination of stearic acid and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to stabilize and blend oil and water-based ingredients.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Stearate is primarily used as an emulsifier in various cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture by allowing oil and water-based ingredients to mix together effectively. Additionally, it can also act as a moisturizer, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Stearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 3 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-stearate

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate" by Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-stearate

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate" by The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-3-stearate/

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate:

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is a versatile ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It is derived from the reaction of stearic acid, lactic acid, and sodium hydroxide, resulting in a compound that helps blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is primarily used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums to create a smooth and creamy texture. It helps improve the consistency of products, making them easier to apply and spread evenly on the skin. Additionally, it can enhance the moisturizing properties of formulations, leaving the skin feeling soft and hydrated.

3. Usage Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate:

When using products containing Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products containing this ingredient into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-stearoyl-lactylate)

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/sodiumstearoyllactylate.pdf)

- "The Role of Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate in Cosmetic Formulations" by Journal of Cosmetic Science (https://www.ingentaconnect.com/contentone/scc/jcs/2016/00000067/00000005/art00008)

Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil:

Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the peel of tangerines. It is known for its sweet, citrusy aroma and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and rejuvenating properties.

2. Use:

Tangerine Peel Oil is often used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is also used in hair care products to promote hair growth and improve scalp health. Additionally, the uplifting scent of tangerine oil makes it a popular choice for aromatherapy products.

3. Usage Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil:

When using Tangerine Peel Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin if used in high concentrations. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing tangerine oil to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to avoid using tangerine oil on sensitive or damaged skin.

4. References:

- Kim, J., Kim, H. J., & Kim, J. Y. (2017). Citrus reticulata Blanco peel essential oil attenuates DMBA/TPA-induced skin tumorigenesis by inhibiting cell proliferation and inflammation in mice. Journal of Food and Drug Analysis, 25(4), 817-825.

- Reuter, J., Huyke, C., Casetti, F., Theek, C., Frank, U., Augustin, M., & Schempp, C. (2010). Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test. Journal of Dermal Science, 58(2), 115-122.

- Li, Y., Wang, Y., Chen, Y., & Li, P. (2019). Chemical composition and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of eight citrus essential oils. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 56(6), 3109-3117.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter:

Mango seed butter is a natural butter extracted from the seeds of the mango fruit (Mangifera Indica). It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins A and E, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Mango seed butter is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and soothing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, mango seed butter can help to condition and strengthen the hair, reduce frizz, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter:

Mango seed butter can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including lotions, creams, balms, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. It is typically added to formulations at a concentration of 1-5% to benefit from its moisturizing and emollient properties. When using mango seed butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility and to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Akhtar, N., & Khan, B. A. (2017). Formulation and evaluation of mango butter-based cosmetic emulsions. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(2), 93-102.

- Jamil, W., & Al-Asmari, A. K. (2019). Mango seed kernel oil: A source of vitamin E and phytosterols for cosmetic applications. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(1), 31-43.

- Silva, M. R., et al. (2018). Mango seed oil: Characterization, processing, and application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(3), 217-229.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of the Lavandula angustifolia plant. It is known for its calming and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Lavender oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, serums, and balms to provide a relaxing scent and promote a sense of calm. Lavender oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient for treating skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and dryness.

3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:

When using lavender oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly to avoid skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any product containing lavender oil to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. Lavender oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children to prevent accidental ingestion.

4. References:

- Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N. A., Shams, S., Ahamad, A., Khan, S. A., & Anwar, F. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.

- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, 681304.

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract

Function:

1. Definition Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark of the black willow tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help reduce inflammation, control oil production, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is often found in products targeted towards acne-prone or sensitive skin due to its calming and purifying effects.

3. Usage Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract:

When using products containing Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advised to use sunscreen when using products with this ingredient, as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2013). Medicinal Plants: Phytochemistry, Pharmacology and Therapeutics. CRC Press.

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Ghassemi, M. R., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). Rhamnus cathartica L. (Buckthorn) Bark Extract: Cosmetic and Dermatologic Applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 6(2), 39–44.

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the peel of the bitter orange fruit. It is known for its refreshing and uplifting citrus scent.

2. Use:

Bitter Orange Peel Oil is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its aromatic properties. It is often added to fragrances, lotions, creams, and soaps to provide a fresh and invigorating scent. Additionally, it is believed to have skin-brightening and toning properties, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and skin-brightening products.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil:

Bitter Orange Peel Oil should be used in cosmetics and skincare products in accordance with recommended guidelines and concentrations. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing this essential oil to check for any allergic reactions. Due to its phototoxicity, it is recommended to avoid sun exposure after applying products containing Bitter Orange Peel Oil to the skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (Ed.). (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2013). Essential oil safety: A guide for healthcare professionals (2nd ed.). Churchill Livingstone.

- Lis-Balchin, M. (2006). Aromatherapy science: A guide for healthcare professionals. Pharmaceutical Press.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Sorbic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is a natural compound that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a white, crystalline powder that is soluble in water and has a slightly acidic taste.

2. Use:

Sorbic acid is used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria. It helps extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and degradation.

3. Usage Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is typically used in concentrations of 0.2% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to create a broad-spectrum antimicrobial effect. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by regulatory authorities to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

Precautions: While sorbic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing sorbic acid, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, sorbic acid should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Sorbic Acid. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Sorbic Acid. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.185

Levulinic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Fragrance

1. Definition Levulinic Acid:

Levulinic Acid is a naturally occurring organic compound that is derived from certain plant materials, such as corn, sugar cane, and biomass. It is a versatile chemical with various applications in industries such as cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food.

2. Use:

Levulinic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and pH adjuster. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by hydrating and exfoliating the outer layers. Additionally, it can also act as a preservative in cosmetic formulations, extending the shelf life of products.

3. Usage Levulinic Acid:

Levulinic Acid is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is safe for topical application when used in concentrations approved by regulatory authorities. However, it is important to note that some individuals may be sensitive to Levulinic Acid, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with Levulinic Acid on broken or irritated skin to prevent any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Babu, K. R., & Parthiban, P. (2016). Levulinic Acid: A Promising Platform Chemical for Biorefineries. Chemical Engineering Research and Design, 113, 74-86.

- Kamm, B., Kamm, M., & Gruber, P. R. (2017). Biorefineries-Industrial Processes and Products: Status Quo and Future Directions. John Wiley & Sons.

- Bicker, M., & Hirth, T. (2018). Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Wiley-VCH.

P Anisic Acid

Other name: p-Anisic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition P Anisic Acid:

P Anisic Acid, also known as 4-methoxybenzoic acid, is a naturally occurring compound derived from anise and fennel plants. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and fragrance ingredient due to its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

P Anisic Acid is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to inhibit the growth of bacteria, fungi, and yeast, thus extending the shelf life of products. It is often found in skincare products, such as creams, lotions, and serums, as well as in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners.

3. Usage P Anisic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing P Anisic Acid, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in skincare and hair care products at concentrations of up to 1%, although some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using a product containing P Anisic Acid to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- "4-Methoxybenzoic acid" by PubChem, National Center for Biotechnology Information, U.S. National Library of Medicine.

- "Anisic Acid" by Cosmetics Info, The Personal Care Products Council.

- "4-Methoxybenzoic Acid" by Truth In Aging, A Beauty and Wellness Blog.

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Function: Masking

1. Definition Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil:

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, also known as Geranium Oil, is a natural essential oil extracted from the flowers of the Pelargonium Graveolens plant. It is widely used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties and potential skin benefits.

2. Use:

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil is commonly used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums for its pleasant floral scent. It is also believed to have antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in natural and organic skincare formulations.

3. Usage Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil:

When using Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a highly concentrated essential oil. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this oil to check for any potential skin sensitivities or allergies. It should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to maintain its potency.

4. References:

- "Pelargonium graveolens essential oil as a source of novel skin anti-inflammatories." Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology.

- "Antibacterial activity of Pelargonium graveolens against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus." Journal of Ethnopharmacology.

- "Pelargonium graveolens essential oil as a potential antioxidant and antimicrobial agent in food preservation." Food Chemistry.

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil

Function:

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil is an essential oil derived from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is known for its sweet, floral scent and is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties.

2. Use:

Bitter Orange Flower Oil is often used in skincare products for its soothing and calming effects on the skin. It is believed to have antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, the oil is known for its uplifting and mood-enhancing qualities, making it a popular ingredient in aromatherapy products.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil:

Bitter Orange Flower Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and perfumes. It is typically used in small concentrations due to its potent aroma. When using products containing Bitter Orange Flower Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any potential skin sensitivities. It is also recommended to avoid using the oil on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- Dweck, A.C. (2002). The volatile and non-volatile constituents of Citrus Aurantium L. var. amara Engl. flowers. International Journal of Aromatherapy, 12(3), 133-136.

- Reuter, J., Merfort, I., & Schempp, C.M. (2010). Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 11(4), 247-267.

- Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Jäger, W., & Plank, C. (1993). Aromatherapy: evidence for sedative effects of the essential oil of bitter orange, Citrus aurantium. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 5(6), 567-571.

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Phytic Acid

Other name: Inositol Hexaphosphate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Phytic Acid:

Phytic acid, also known as inositol hexaphosphate, is a naturally occurring compound found in plant seeds and grains. It is a powerful antioxidant and chelating agent that can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

2. Use:

Phytic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its exfoliating properties. It can help to gently remove dead skin cells, promote cell turnover, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Additionally, phytic acid has been shown to have skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Phytic Acid:

When using products containing phytic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of phytic acid and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation or sensitivity. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products containing phytic acid, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142.

- Maia Campos, P. M. B. G., Gaspar, L. R., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2006). Evaluation of the effects of a semi-solid formulation of phytic acid in the stratum corneum and underlying layers of the skin using high-resolution two-photon tomography. Skin Research and Technology, 12(2), 105–111.

- Schagen, S. K., & Zampeli, V. A. (2019). Phytic acid in skincare formulations. Cosmetics, 6(2), 29.

Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil:

Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil, also known as New Caledonian Sandalwood Oil, is an essential oil derived from the wood of the Santalum Austrocaledonicum tree native to New Caledonia. It is known for its sweet, woody aroma and is commonly used in perfumery and skincare products.

2. Use:

Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil is used in cosmetics for its aromatic properties as well as its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits. It is often added to skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help calm and hydrate the skin. Additionally, its pleasant scent makes it a popular ingredient in perfumes and colognes.

3. Usage Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil:

When using Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a highly concentrated essential oil. It should not be applied directly to the skin in its undiluted form, as it may cause irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this oil to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil." The Good Scents Company, www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/es1488131.html.

- Smith, I. W., et al. "Santalum Austrocaledonicum." International Union for Conservation of Nature, 2017, www.iucnredlist.org/species/32403/2827080.

- "New Caledonian Sandalwood Oil." New Directions Aromatics, www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/blog/products/new-caledonian-sandalwood-oil.html.

Sodium Levulinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.

4. References:

- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.

- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.

- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the sweet orange fruit. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Orange fruit extract is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks for its ability to improve skin tone and texture. It can help to reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging. Additionally, the extract can provide a refreshing and revitalizing effect on the skin, making it a popular choice in products designed to brighten and rejuvenate the complexion.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions or irritation. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to assess how your skin responds. It is also advisable to use sunscreen during the day when using products with orange fruit extract, as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2013). Anti-inflammatory effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 57, 225-232.

- Kaur, G., et al. (2014). Skin lightening and anti-aging effects of Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract: A randomized controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 218-224.

- Ribeiro, A. S., et al. (2018). Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract as a natural antioxidant in cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(4), 370-376.

Maltodextrin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.

2. Use:

Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.

3. Usage Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.

4. References:

- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)

- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)

- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Geraniol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Geraniol:

Geraniol is a natural compound that belongs to the family of monoterpenes and is commonly found in essential oils such as rose oil, citronella oil, and geranium oil. It has a sweet, floral scent and is often used in the fragrance industry.

2. Use:

Geraniol is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant aroma. It is commonly found in perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other personal care products to add a floral scent. In addition to its fragrance properties, geraniol also has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Geraniol:

When using products containing geraniol, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities and allergies. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to high concentrations of geraniol. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with geraniol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing geraniol.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Safety assessment of Geraniol as a food ingredient. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 48(2), 29-34.

- Rastogi, S. C., & Heydorn, S. (2001). Fragrance allergens in commercial products. Contact Dermatitis, 45(5), 221-226.

- Menz, J., & Kistler, A. (2015). Fragrance allergens in cosmetics – a review. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 13(6), 625-632.

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Function: Masking, Humectant, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Emollient, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Tonic

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, which is the same plant used to produce green, black, white, and oolong teas. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that have numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, such as UV rays and pollution, and can also help to reduce inflammation and promote overall skin health. Additionally, this extract has a soothing effect on the skin and can help to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. When using products containing Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for best results.

4. References:

- Baek, J. H., Kim, S. M., Lee, H., Lee, J. Y., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Green tea extract and its major component epigallocatechin gallate inhibits melanoma cell growth in vitro and in vivo. Food and chemical toxicology, 87, 1-11.

- Yoon, J. H., Baek, S. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Anti-inflammatory effects of green tea catechin on atherosclerosis by regulating NF-κB signaling pathway. Nutrition research and practice, 6(4), 294-301.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract

Function: Skin Protecting

1. Definition Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract:

Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, also known as Channelled Wrack Extract, is a brown algae extract derived from the Pelvetia canaliculata species. This extract is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and skin-protecting properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, this extract has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract:

Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract can be found in various skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and lotions. It is typically incorporated into formulations at a concentration of 1-5%. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to cleansed skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day.

4. References:

- S. A. A. El-Baz, S. M. El-Sayed, A. A. El-Sheekh, H. A. M. El-Senousy, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Anticancer Activity of the Brown Algae Pelvetia canaliculata", Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 2017.

- K. J. Lee, H. J. Hwang, "Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activities of Individual and Combined Extracts of Pelvetia canaliculata and Codium fragile", Journal of Applied Phycology, 2006.

- N. M. Alves, M. T. P. S. Correia, J. M. M. D. A. Rocha, "Brown Algae Extracts: A Review of Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anti-Aging Efficacy", Cosmetics, 2020.

Citral

Other name: Lemonal

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Citral:

Citral is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in the essential oils of plants such as lemon, lemongrass, and orange. It is known for its strong citrus aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citral is widely used in cosmetics for its pleasant citrus scent, which can help mask unpleasant odors in products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products. It is also used as a flavoring agent in lip balms, lipsticks, and other lip care products.

3. Usage Citral:

When using citral in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Citral can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing citral and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Gomes-Carneiro, M. R., Dias, D. M., Paumgartten, F. J., & Azevedo, R. B. (2005). Subchronic toxicity of citral in rats. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(9), 1361-1367.

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2004). Cytotoxicity of citral and limonene in a human melanoma cell line. Phytomedicine, 11(1), 34-40.

- Re, R., Pellegrini, N., Proteggente, A., Pannala, A., Yang, M., & Rice-Evans, C. (1999). Antioxidant activity applying an improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 26(9-10), 1231-1237.

Beta Carotene

Other name: CI 40800; CI 75130; β-Carotene

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Beta Carotene:

Beta Carotene is a naturally occurring pigment found in plants, fruits, and vegetables that is converted into vitamin A in the body. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to promote healthy skin.

2. Use:

Beta Carotene is used in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties and can help to improve the overall appearance of the skin, promoting a more youthful and radiant complexion.

3. Usage Beta Carotene:

Beta Carotene is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and oils. It can be applied topically to the skin to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone and texture, and protect against free radical damage. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions on the product packaging to avoid any potential irritation or adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Bhosale, P., & Serban, B. (2017). Cosmetic benefits of astaxanthin on humans subjects. Acta Biochimica Polonica, 64(3), 507-512.

- Darvin, M. E., Sterry, W., Lademann, J., & Patzelt, A. (2014). Cutaneous concentration of lycopene correlates significantly with the roughness of the skin. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, 87(1), 196-201.

- Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., ... & Fisher, G. J. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826-832.

Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract

Other name: Carrot Root Extract

Function: Perfuming

1. Definition Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract:

Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract is a botanical extract derived from the roots of the carrot plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are beneficial for the skin.

2. Use:

Carrot root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-nourishing properties. It is known for its ability to improve skin tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote overall skin health. Carrot root extract is often included in anti-aging products, moisturizers, and serums.

3. Usage Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract:

Carrot root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, and serums. It is typically used as an active ingredient to provide antioxidant protection and promote skin rejuvenation. When using products containing carrot root extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, W. J., Lee, N. H., Hyun, C. G., & Park, S. K. (2010). Skin aging inhibitory effects of the root extract of Daucus carota L. ssp. sativus in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 654-661.

- Sultana, S., & Anwar, F. (2008). Flavonols (kaempeferol, quercetin, myricetin) contents of selected fruits, vegetables and medicinal plants. Food Chemistry, 108(3), 879-884.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance

1. Definition Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil:

Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the carrot plant. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Carrot seed oil is known for its nourishing and rejuvenating properties, making it a valuable ingredient in cosmetics. It is commonly used in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Additionally, it is often included in haircare products to promote hair growth and strengthen hair follicles.

3. Usage Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil:

Carrot seed oil can be used in a variety of ways in cosmetics. It can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer or added to creams, lotions, and serums to enhance their nourishing properties. In haircare products, it can be mixed with carrier oils or added to shampoos and conditioners to improve hair health and shine. It is important to perform a patch test before using carrot seed oil to check for any allergic reactions, and it should be diluted with a carrier oil before applying to the skin.

4. References:

- Prakash, B., & Gupta, S. (2005). Therapeutic uses of Daucus carota (Carrot) seeds. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 4(1), 58-60.

- Al-Snafi, A. E. (2016). The pharmacological activities of Daucus carota-A review. IOSR Journal of Pharmacy, 6(10), 42-50.

- Kaur, G., & Kaur, R. (2017). Carrot seed oil: A review on its composition and properties. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 6(3), 2208-2212.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Farnesol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance, Soothing

1. Definition Farnesol:

Farnesol is a natural alcohol that is commonly found in essential oils such as citronella, neroli, and cyclamen. It has a pleasant floral scent and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Farnesol is known for its antimicrobial properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers. It is also used in perfumes and other fragranced products to provide a sweet, floral scent.

3. Usage Farnesol:

When using products containing farnesol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to farnesol, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. Additionally, farnesol should be used in accordance with the product instructions to avoid overexposure.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2005). Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients. CRC Press.

- Lalko, J., Api, A. M., & Nardelli, A. (2006). Farnesol. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 44(1), 121-127.

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Farnesol, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, and Hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(4), 1-43.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Other name: Ascorbyl Pamitate

Function: Masking, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.