Full ingredients list Graymelin Galactocera Return Cream

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1		Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Humectant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Butylene Glycol (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents)	Good for dry skin
1	A	C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial)
1	B	Betaine (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1		Glycosyl Trehalose (Humectant, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Protecting, Binding Agent, Film Forming)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1	A	Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (Humectant)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Squalane (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting)
1	A	Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
3	B	Polysorbate 60 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1		Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising)
1		Arachidyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1		Aspalathus Linearis Extract (Skin Conditioning)
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
2	B	Arachidyl Glucoside (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent)
1	A	Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling)
3	A	Dimethicone Peg 10/ 15 Crosspolymer (Film Forming, Opacifying)
1	A	Sorbitan Isostearate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3	A	Lauryl Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1 2	A	Hydrogenated Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant)
1		Asiaticoside (Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)
1		Madecassic Acid (Skin Conditioning)
1		Asiatic Acid (Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
		Yucca Schidigera Root Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Commiphora Myrrha (Myrrh) Resin Extract (Masking)
1		Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking)
1 2		Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil (Masking, Fragrance)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Other name: Pitera; Saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is a type of yeast extract that is commonly used in skincare products. It is derived from the fermentation of a specific type of fungus called Galactomyces, which helps to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

2. Use:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is known for its ability to hydrate and brighten the skin, as well as improve the skin's elasticity and overall health. It is often used in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it can help to balance the skin's oil production and reduce the appearance of pores.

3. Usage Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is typically found in serums, essences, and moisturizers. It is best applied to clean, toned skin before other skincare products. A few drops of the product can be gently pressed into the skin until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products containing Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, W. S., Park, S. H., & Ahn, S. K. (2018). Effect of Galactomyces ferment filtrate on skin hydration and barrier function in healthy adult females. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 419-423.

- Lee, H. H., & Kim, J. H. (2017). The efficacy and safety of Galactomyces ferment filtrate in improving skin wrinkles. Korean Journal of Aesthetic Cosmetology, 15(2), 287-293.

- Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Galactomyces ferment filtrate on UVB-induced skin damage in mice. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(1), e51.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Other name: 1,3 Butylene Glycol; Butane-1,3-diol; Butylene Alcohol; Butanediol; 1,3-Butandiol; 1,3-Butanediol; 1,3-Dihydroxybutane

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity decreasing agents

1. Definition Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is a small organic alcohol used in cosmetics as a solvent, humectant, and viscosity-decreasing agent. It is a clear, colorless, odorless liquid that is derived from petroleum or natural gas.

2. Use:

Butylene Glycol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, a humectant to attract moisture to the skin, and a viscosity-decreasing agent to improve the texture and spreadability of the product. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve product absorption, and create a smooth, lightweight feel.

3. Usage Butylene Glycol:

Butylene Glycol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Butylene Glycol before use, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions on the product label and avoid using products with Butylene Glycol if you have known allergies to similar ingredients.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2001). Final report on the safety assessment of butylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, ethoxydiglycol, and ethoxydiglycol oleate. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(Suppl 4), 61-75.

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 24856, Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylene-glycol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2017). Butylene Glycol. Retrieved from https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/butylene-glycol

C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate

Other name: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; Alkyl (C12-C15) benzoate; Dodecyl benzoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial

1. Definition C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an ester derived from benzoic acid and a mixture of alcohols with carbon chain lengths ranging from 12 to 15. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and solvent.

2. Use:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is utilized in various cosmetic formulations such as sunscreens, moisturizers, and makeup products. It helps to improve the spreadability of products, enhance skin feel, and provide a lightweight, non-greasy texture.

3. Usage C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate:

When using products containing C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and apply as directed on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before widespread use to ensure compatibility.

Precautions: While C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 14th Edition.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2003). Final report on the safety assessment of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). CIR Expert Panel Reaffirms Safety of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in Cosmetics.

Betaine

Other name: Trimethylglycine

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Betaine:

Betaine is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is derived from sugar beets and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Betaine is often included in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing effects on the skin. It helps to improve the skin's moisture levels, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. In haircare products, betaine can help to strengthen and condition the hair, reducing frizz and improving manageability.

3. Usage Betaine:

Betaine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is considered safe for most skin types. However, as with any new ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing betaine to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choudhury, H., & Pandey, M. (2013). Betaine in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 35(2), 157-161.

- Kim, J., & Lee, I. (2016). Moisturizing effects of betaine-containing cosmetics on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 212-217.

- Yoon, H. S., & Lee, S. J. (2018). Betaine as a conditioning agent in haircare products. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(5), 321-327.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Glycosyl Trehalose

Other name: Glycosyl Trehalose; Glycosyl Trehalose / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Function: Humectant, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Protecting, Binding Agent, Film Forming

1. Definition Glycosyl Trehalose:

Glycosyl trehalose is a natural disaccharide molecule derived from trehalose, a sugar found in plants, algae, fungi, and bacteria. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and skin conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Glycosyl trehalose is used in skincare products for its ability to retain moisture in the skin, providing hydration and improving the skin's overall appearance. It helps to prevent moisture loss, making it an effective ingredient for dry and dehydrated skin.

3. Usage Glycosyl Trehalose:

Glycosyl trehalose is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks. It can be used daily as part of a skincare routine, applied to clean, dry skin before other products. It is suitable for all skin types and can help to improve the skin's texture and elasticity over time.

4. References:

- Yagihara S, et al. (2018). Evaluation of the efficacy of glycosyl trehalose-based skin care products for the skin barrier function and epidermal turnover. Journal of Dermatological Science. 91(3): 328-335.

- Park JH, et al. (2016). Anti-wrinkle effect of glycosyl trehalose on human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 15(3): 327-332.

- Sato T, et al. (2014). Moisturizing effect of glycosyl trehalose on human skin. Journal of Dermatology. 41(8): 690-694.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Other name: Glycosyl Trehalose; Glycosyl Trehalose / Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate:

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (HSH) is a sugar alcohol derived from the hydrogenation of starch hydrolysate. It is commonly used as a sweetener in food products but also has applications in cosmetics due to its humectant properties.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, HSH is primarily used as a humectant, which means it helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. This can help to improve skin hydration and overall skin health. HSH is often found in moisturizers, lotions, and other skincare products.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate:

When using skincare products containing HSH, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with HSH to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using products containing HSH.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Lee, S. H., & Cho, Y. S. (2017). A review of hydrogenated starch hydrolysates in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 185-195.

- Kim, E. Y., Kim, D. S., & Kim, S. H. (2019). The effects of hydrogenated starch hydrolysate on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 94(2), 123-130.

- Park, H. Y., Park, J. H., & Park, K. Y. (2018). Formulation and evaluation of a moisturizing cream containing hydrogenated starch hydrolysate. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(1), 67-74.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Squalane

Other name: Perhydrosqualene; Pripure 3759

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Refatting

1. Definition Squalane:

Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is derived from squalene, a natural component found in the skin's sebum. It is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and emollient properties.

2. Use:

Squalane is used in cosmetics and skincare products as a moisturizing agent to help hydrate and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, serums, and oils to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

3. Usage Squalane:

Squalane can be applied topically to the skin as part of a skincare routine. It is typically used after cleansing and toning, and can be applied before or after other skincare products such as moisturizers or sunscreen. Squalane is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and can help to improve the skin's hydration levels and overall health.

Precautions: While squalane is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to do a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating squalane into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2005). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Saunders.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil

Other name: Olea Europaea Fruit; Olive Fruit

Function:

1. Definition Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is a natural oil extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids that help nourish and protect the skin.

2. Use:

Olive oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and body lotions. Olive oil helps to hydrate the skin, improve its elasticity, and protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil:

When using products containing Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but those with sensitive or acne-prone skin may want to use it cautiously. Olive oil can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients in DIY skincare recipes.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." Beginning Press.

- P. Konstantinidou, et al. (2010). "In vivo nutrigenomic effects of virgin olive oil polyphenols within the frame of the Mediterranean diet: a randomized controlled trial." The FASEB Journal.

- A. Ghanbari, et al. (2012). "Olive oil and cancer." Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society.

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Polysorbate 60

Other name: Tween 60; POE (20) Sorbitan monostearate; Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 60:

Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a yellowish liquid that is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 60 is used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and solubilizer. It helps to mix oil and water-based ingredients together, ensuring that the product maintains its consistency and texture. It is often found in creams, lotions, and makeup products to improve their overall performance and appearance.

3. Usage Polysorbate 60:

When using products containing Polysorbate 60, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. While it is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Polysorbate 60 to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Polysorbate 60." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polysorbate-60.

- "Polysorbate 60." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polysorbate-60/.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Other name: Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; (Eau D'Hamamelis) Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, which helps improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, serums, and gels. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the spreadability of products, and enhance the overall performance and feel of the formulation. This copolymer is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup products.

3. Usage Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer:

When using products containing Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of acrylates copolymer and 33 related cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology. 2001;20 Suppl 1:1-50.

- Personal Care Products Council. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hydroxyethyl-acrylatesodium-acryloyldimethyl-taurate-copolymer

- European Commission. CosIng - Cosmetics - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer. Accessed from: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=76317

Arachidyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-Icosanol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Arachidyl Alcohol:

Arachidyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from arachidic acid, which is naturally found in peanut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Arachidyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to help soften and smooth the skin. It has emollient properties that help to hydrate and condition the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. Additionally, it acts as an emulsifier, helping to stabilize and blend ingredients together in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Arachidyl Alcohol:

Arachidyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines and precautions. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in cosmetic formulations. Some individuals may be sensitive to arachidyl alcohol, so it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. In case of any irritation or allergic reaction, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Arachidyl Alcohol." Cosmeticsinfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/arachidyl-alcohol.

- Sharma, R., et al. "Arachidyl Alcohol." Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology, vol. 78, no. 2, 2012, pp. 230-232.

- "Safety Assessment of Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/arachidyl%20alcohol%20and%20behenyl%20alcohol.pdf.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Aspalathus Linearis Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Aspalathus Linearis Extract:

Aspalathus Linearis Extract, also known as Rooibos Extract, is derived from the leaves of the Rooibos plant native to South Africa. It is rich in antioxidants, including polyphenols and flavonoids, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote overall skin health.

2. Use:

Aspalathus Linearis Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. It is often included in skincare products targeting sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and calm inflammation. Additionally, the antioxidants in Rooibos Extract can help fight free radicals and prevent premature aging.

3. Usage Aspalathus Linearis Extract:

When using skincare products containing Aspalathus Linearis Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a discreet area, such as the inner forearm, and wait 24 hours to check for any signs of irritation or allergic reaction. If no adverse effects occur, the product can be safely used as directed.

4. References:

- Kock, J.L., and Van Wyk, B.E. (2008). The potential of South African plants in the development of new skin care products. South African Journal of Botany, 74(3), 483-491.

- Joubert, E., Gelderblom, W.C.A., and Louw, A. (2008). South African herbal teas: Aspalathus linearis, Cyclopia spp. and Athrixia phylicoides - a review. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 119(3), 376-412.

- McKay, D.L., and Blumberg, J.B. (2007). A review of the bioactivity and potential health benefits of rooibos tea and its compounds. Food & Function, 1(2), 131-144.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Arachidyl Glucoside

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Arachidyl Glucoside:

Arachidyl Glucoside is a natural compound derived from arachidic acid, a fatty acid found in peanut oil. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant, helping to stabilize and blend oil and water-based ingredients.

2. Use:

Arachidyl Glucoside is used in cosmetics for its emulsifying properties, which allow for the creation of smooth and uniform textures in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to improve the spreadability and absorption of active ingredients, enhancing the overall efficacy of the product.

3. Usage Arachidyl Glucoside:

When using cosmetics containing Arachidyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Arachidyl Glucoside." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/arachidyl-glucoside.

- "Arachidyl Glucoside." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/arachidyl-glucoside.

- "Arachidyl Glucoside: What is it and What are its Benefits in Skincare?" Lab Muffin Beauty Science, labmuffin.com/arachidyl-glucoside.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Other name: Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate; Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizinate; K2

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is a white, odorless powder derived from licorice root extract. It is a natural ingredient known for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe irritated skin. It is often included in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Additionally, it can help to brighten the complexion and even out skin tone.

3. Usage Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate:

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in skincare formulations. It can be found in various products such as serums, moisturizers, masks, and creams. When using products containing Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test prior to full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing Corporation, 1994.

- Baumann, Leslie. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009.

- Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences, 2014.

Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Function: Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer:

Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and texture enhancer. It is a crosslinked polymer of dimethicone and vinyl dimethicone, which helps to improve the spreadability and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is often used in skincare and makeup products such as primers, foundations, lotions, and creams. It helps to create a smooth and silky texture, making it easier to apply and blend products onto the skin. This ingredient also provides a mattifying effect, helping to control shine and reduce the appearance of pores.

3. Usage Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dimethiconevinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer

- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dimethiconevinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer

- "Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer." The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dimethicone-vinyl-dimethicone-crosspolymer/

Dimethicone Peg 10/ 15 Crosspolymer

Function: Film Forming, Opacifying

1. Definition Dimethicone Peg 10/ 15 Crosspolymer:

Dimethicone Peg 10/15 Crosspolymer is a type of silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetic formulations as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Dimethicone Peg 10/15 Crosspolymer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, sunscreens, and makeup products. It helps to improve the texture and spreadability of the product, giving it a smooth and silky feel on the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a barrier on the skin, helping to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone Peg 10/ 15 Crosspolymer:

When using products containing Dimethicone Peg 10/15 Crosspolymer, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- "Dimethicone Peg-10/15 Crosspolymer" CosmeticsInfo.org, https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dimethicone-peg-1015-crosspolymer

- "Dimethicone Peg-10/15 Crosspolymer" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dimethicone-peg-1015-crosspolymer/

- "Dimethicone Peg-10/15 Crosspolymer" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dimethicone-peg-1015-crosspolymer

Sorbitan Isostearate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Isostearate:

Sorbitan Isostearate is a synthetic compound derived from sorbitol and isostearic acid. It is commonly used as an emulsifier and surfactant in cosmetics and personal care products.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Isostearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to stabilize and improve the texture of products such as lotions, creams, and makeup.

3. Usage Sorbitan Isostearate:

Sorbitan Isostearate is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products when used in accordance with regulations and guidelines. It is generally well-tolerated by most individuals, but as with any ingredient, there is a potential for sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Sorbitan Isostearate, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies.

4. References:

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitan-isostearate

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sorbitan-isostearate

- "Sorbitan Isostearate" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/sorbitan-isostearate/

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

1,2-Hexanediol

Function: Solvent

1. Definition 1,2-Hexanediol:

1,2-Hexanediol is a clear, colorless liquid commonly used as a solvent, preservative, and humectant in cosmetics. It is a type of glycol that is derived from petroleum.

2. Use:

1,2-Hexanediol is used in cosmetics as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a preservative to extend the shelf life of products, and as a humectant to help attract and retain moisture in the skin.

3. Usage 1,2-Hexanediol:

When using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to this ingredient and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing 1,2-Hexanediol to determine if any sensitivity exists.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). 1,2-Hexanediol. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/12-hexanediol

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Safety Assessment of 1,2-Hexanediol as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/2020-01-28-safety-assessment-of-12-hexanediol-as-used-in-cosmetics/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.820

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Lauryl Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Lauryl Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

Lauryl Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is a silicone-based polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a combination of lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, which is a water-soluble silicone surfactant, and lauryl dimethicone, a silicone-based emollient.

2. Use:

Lauryl Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone is used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It is often found in products such as moisturizers, sunscreens, hair conditioners, and makeup primers. This ingredient helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhances the overall texture, making them easier to apply and more pleasant to use.

3. Usage Lauryl Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone:

When using products containing Lauryl Peg 9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient extensively. It is recommended to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes, and to discontinue use if irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Kiremitçi T, Aytekin S, Gökçen A, et al. (2017). Comparative evaluation of the in vitro cytotoxic effects of three different cosmetic formulations. Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology, 36(3): 235-239.

- Lodeiro C, Capelo JL, Oliveira E, et al. (2009). Determination of trace amounts of cyclopentasiloxane (D5) in cosmetic samples by headspace solid-phase microextraction and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Journal of Chromatography A, 1216(10): 1731-1736.

- Uchida T, Yoshida M, Goto M, et al. (2009). Analysis of cyclic and linear siloxanes in cosmetic products by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Journal of Chromatography A, 1216(10): 1737-1742.

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent- Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Hydrogenated Lecithin:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, a naturally occurring fatty substance found in plants and animals. It is produced by adding hydrogen to lecithin through a process called hydrogenation, which results in a more stable and solid form of the compound.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. It helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as enhance their spreadability and moisturizing properties. It is often found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Lecithin:

When using products containing Hydrogenated Lecithin, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies should perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. If any irritation or adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- S. R. Kulkarni, L. J. M. Coelho, E. M. R. Fairhurst, A. J. R. Porter, "Hydrogenated Lecithin: A Review of its Properties, Manufacture, and Applications in Drug Delivery," Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 106, no. 6, pp. 1681-1691, 2017.

- M. A. G. de Lima, C. A. S. Batista, L. B. de Oliveira, "Hydrogenated Lecithin as a Cosmetic Ingredient: A Review," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 3, pp. 221-227, 2020.

- H. S. R. Silva, E. M. M. Santos, R. A. F. Souza, "Safety Assessment of Hydrogenated Lecithin in Cosmetics: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 109, 2020.

Asiaticoside

Function: Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Asiaticoside:

Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid compound derived from the plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is a natural ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Asiaticoside is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks. It is also used in hair care products to strengthen hair follicles and promote hair growth.

3. Usage Asiaticoside:

When using products containing Asiaticoside, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to do a patch test on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any allergic reactions. It is also advisable to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Asiaticoside into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Kimura Y, Sumiyoshi M. Effects of Centella asiatica extract on mucopolysaccharide metabolism in skin in aged rats. Planta Med. 2009;75(6):689-695.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizenz P, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Adv Dermatol Allergol. 2013;30(1):46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Dhawan BN. Asiaticoside-induced elevation of antioxidant levels in healing wounds. Phytother Res. 1999;13(1):50-54.

Madecassic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Madecassic Acid:

Madecassic Acid is a triterpenoid compound derived from the medicinal plant Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Madecassic Acid is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help calm irritation and breakouts.

3. Usage Madecassic Acid:

When using products containing Madecassic Acid, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. Start by using the product once every few days and gradually increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well. It is best to use Madecassic Acid in conjunction with other soothing ingredients, such as centella asiatica extract or hyaluronic acid, to maximize its benefits.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim HL, Lee MH, You YJ, Choi YJ, Park CW, Kim HC, Lee JY, Ahn KJ, An IS, An S. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic inflammation in an atopic dermatitis-like murine model. Int Immunopharmacol. 2016 Nov;40:362-369. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2016.09.023. Epub 2016 Sep 26. PMID: 27685721.

- Kim D, Kim SH, Chang YJ, Kim J, Kim Y. Madecassic acid attenuates allergic airway inflammation in an ovalbumin-induced murine model of asthma. Int Immunopharmacol. 2019 Jan;66:294-301. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2018.11.003. Epub 2018 Nov 6. PMID: 30414514.

- Park MY, Kwon HJ, Sung MK. Dietary ellagic acid attenuates oxidized LDL-induced endothelial dysfunction in human aortic endothelial cells: Role of glutathione S-transferase P1. Food Chem Toxicol. 2013 May;55:100-6. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2013.01.040. Epub 2013 Feb 1. PMID: 23376370.

Asiatic Acid

Function: Skin Conditioning, Stabilising

1. Definition Asiatic Acid:

Asiatic acid is a triterpenoid compound found in plants such as Centella asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Asiatic acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to reduce inflammation, promote collagen production, and improve skin elasticity. This makes it an ideal ingredient for products targeting sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or those looking to combat signs of aging.

3. Usage Asiatic Acid:

When using skincare products containing Asiatic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Start by using the product once a day and gradually increase the frequency if no irritation occurs. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Asiatic acid, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- Lee JH, et al. (2018). Asiatic acid inhibits pulmonary inflammation induced by cigarette smoke.

- Bylka W, et al. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology.

- Kimura Y, et al. (2008). Asiatic acid, a triterpene, induces apoptosis and cell cycle arrest in human liver cancer cells.

Yucca Schidigera Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Yucca Schidigera Root Extract:

Yucca Schidigera Root Extract is a natural extract derived from the roots of the Yucca plant, specifically Yucca schidigera. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Yucca Schidigera Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and calming properties. It is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to help reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation. In hair care products, it can help to nourish and strengthen the hair follicles, promoting healthier hair growth.

3. Usage Yucca Schidigera Root Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Yucca Schidigera Root Extract, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine. As with any new ingredient, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Goyal, A., Sharma, V., Upadhyay, N., Gill, S., & Sihag, M. (2018). Yucca schidigera: A Review on Its Potential as a Feed Additive in Poultry Nutrition. Animals, 8(2), 23.

- Yim, S., & Kim, M. (2015). Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effects of Yucca schidigera extract in subchronic treatment on Sprague-Dawley rats. Journal of Veterinary Science, 16(3), 385-392.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, G. H., & Lee, J. S. (2016). Antimicrobial effects of Yucca schidigera extract against Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Safety, 36(4), 501-508.

Commiphora Myrrha (Myrrh) Resin Extract

Function: Masking

1. Definition Commiphora Myrrha (Myrrh) Resin Extract:

Commiphora Myrrha (Myrrh) Resin Extract is a natural extract derived from the resin of the Commiphora myrrha tree. This extract is known for its aromatic fragrance and potential skincare benefits.

2. Use:

Myrrh resin extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks to help improve skin tone, texture, and overall appearance.

3. Usage Commiphora Myrrha (Myrrh) Resin Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Commiphora Myrrha (Myrrh) Resin Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. As with any skincare ingredient, it is best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Myrrh resin extract into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Togni S, Maramaldi G, Bonetta A, Giacomelli L, Di Pierro F. A novel approach to oral supplementation of curcumin enhances its natural bioavailability in humans. Eur Rev Med Pharmacol Sci. 2017;21(7):1611-1614.

- Al-Said MS, Ageel AM, Parmar NS, Tariq M. Evaluation of mastic, a crude drug obtained from Pistacia lentiscus for gastric and duodenal anti-ulcer activity. J Ethnopharmacol. 1986;15(3):271-278.

- Aslam MN, Lansky EP, Varani J. Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells. J Ethnopharmacol. 2006;103(3):311-318.

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking

1. Definition Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract:

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of the Perilla Frutescens plant, also known as Korean perilla or shiso. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It helps to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, it is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract:

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5% in formulations. To incorporate this ingredient into your skincare routine, look for products that specifically list Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract in the ingredients list. It is generally safe for most skin types, but as with any new ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin.

4. References:

- Park, S. Y., & Park, J. H. (2014). Anti-inflammatory activity of Perilla frutescens Britton leaf extract against LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 74, 109-117.

- Kim, M. J., Kim, H. K., & Park, Y. (2018). Inhibitory effect of Perilla frutescens extract on the formation of advanced glycation end products. Journal of Food Science and Nutrition, 23(3), 381-388.

- Lee, H. J., Kang, M. J., & Lee, J. H. (2015). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Perilla frutescens Britton var. crispa (Thunb.) Hara extract. Food Science and Biotechnology, 24(5), 1817-1823.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil

Other name: Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil; Bergamot Fruit Oil

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the rind of the bergamot orange fruit. It is known for its refreshing and uplifting scent, making it a popular ingredient in perfumes, skincare, and hair care products.

2. Use:

Bergamot oil is valued for its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and astringent properties, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetic formulations. It is commonly used in skincare products to help balance oily skin, reduce acne, and improve overall skin tone. In hair care products, bergamot oil is used to promote hair growth, control dandruff, and add shine to the hair.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil:

When using bergamot oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil that can cause skin irritation if used undiluted. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing bergamot oil to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, bergamot oil is photosensitive, meaning it can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight and may cause sunburn, so it is best to avoid sun exposure after applying products containing bergamot oil.

4. References:

- "Bergamot Oil: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects." Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/bergamot-oil#benefits

- "Bergamot Oil in Skincare: Benefits and Uses." Byrdie, www.byrdie.com/bergamot-oil-for-skin-4800962

- "Bergamot Essential Oil: Properties, Uses, and Benefits." AromaWeb, www.aromaweb.com/essential-oils/bergamot-oil.asp

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.