Full ingredients list Helia-D Professional Firming Deep ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Cetearyl Alcohol (Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract
1	B	Coco Caprylate/ Caprate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
6		Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)	UV Protection Bad for sensitive skin
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
3	B	Propylene Glycol (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous)	Good for dry skin
2		Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uv Absorber, Uv Filter)	UV Protection
1 3	B	Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for sensitive skin
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1	A	Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive)
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1	A	Zea Mays (Corn) Oil (Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Bad for oily skin
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
2	B	Cetearyl Glucoside (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Absorbent)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
6		Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate (Hair Conditioning, Preservative)
1 4	B	Lactic Acid (Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
9		Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
5	B	Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming, Adhesive)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Exclusive)
1		Ziziphus Jujuba (Jujube) Extract (Skin Conditioning)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
4 5		Limonene (Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Allergen
1	A	Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming)
1	B	Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
3		Hexyl Cinnamal (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3		Linalool (Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance)	Allergen
1		Phytoecdysteroids (Skin Conditioning)
3 4		Citronellol (Masking, Fragrance)	Allergen
3 5		Citral (Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent)	Allergen
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
1	A	Ascorbyl Palmitate (Masking, Antioxidant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Other name: Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol; Cetostearyl Alcohol; C16-18 Alcohols

Function: Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous

1. Definition Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Alcohol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and hair conditioners. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, as well as improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to stabilize and maintain the structure of the formulation.

3. Usage Cetearyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetearyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions when using products with Cetearyl Alcohol, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions for use provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective application.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Alcohol" by Paula Begoun, Cosmetics Cop, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetearyl-alcohol.html

- "Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics: Safe or Harmful?" by Dr. Anvita Arora, Dermatologist, https://www.dranvitaarora.com/cetearyl-alcohol-in-cosmetics-safe-or-harmful/

- "The Role of Cetearyl Alcohol in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cetearylcir.pdf

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract

Other name: Shea Butter Extract; Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract; Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Shea Butter Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular choice for products targeting dry or damaged skin. Shea Butter Extract is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and protecting against environmental damage.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Shea Butter Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as lotions, creams, balms, and masks. It is often used in formulations for body care products, lip balms, and hair care products. When using products containing Shea Butter Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store products containing Shea Butter Extract in a cool, dry place to prevent rancidity.

4. References:

- M. A. Tella, M. K. Aremu, and A. O. Ogunmoye. "Shea butter: A multi-purpose oil for cosmeceuticals." Journal of Applied Sciences and Environmental Management, 2011.

- A. A. Akihisa, et al. "Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat." Journal of Oleo Science, 2011.

- E. M. Obiri-Danso, et al. "Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of shea butter extract." Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 2007.

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is a lightweight, fast-absorbing ingredient that helps to hydrate and soften the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

2. Use:

Coco Caprylate/ Caprate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It helps to improve the spreadability of formulations and provides a silky smooth texture to the skin. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients, helping them to penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Coco Caprylate/ Caprate:

When using products containing Coco Caprylate/ Caprate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for use on the skin, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate/Caprate" by Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylatecaprate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/coco-caprylate

- "Coco-Caprylate" by Skin Deep, https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredients/706751-COCO-CAPRYLATE/

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate:

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is a synthetic compound that belongs to the ester family. It is a combination of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate is primarily used in skincare and haircare products as a moisturizer due to its emollient properties. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an ideal ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Additionally, it can also act as a solvent for other ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate:

When using products containing Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical application, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is advisable to avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetearyl-ethylhexanoate.

- "Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-ethylhexanoate.

- "Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/cetearyl-ethylhexanoate/.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Other name: Octinoxate; Octylmethoxy Cinnamate; Octyl Methoxycinnamate; 2-Ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate; Parsol MCX; Escalol 557; Eusolex 2292; Uvinul 3088; Tinosorb OMC

Function: Uv Absorber, Uv Filter

1. Definition Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as Octyl Methoxycinnamate, is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics and sunscreens as a UV filter. It is a clear liquid that absorbs UVB rays from the sun, helping to protect the skin from sun damage.

2. Use:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is primarily used in cosmetics and skincare products as a UV filter to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. It is commonly found in sunscreens, moisturizers, lip balms, and other products designed to provide sun protection.

3. Usage Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:

When using products containing Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Apply sunscreen with this ingredient generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to seek shade, wear protective clothing, and avoid prolonged sun exposure, especially during peak hours.

4. References:

- Klammer H, Schlecht C, Wuttke W, Schmutzler C, Gotthardt I, Köhrle J, Jarry H. Effects of a 5-day treatment with the UV-filter octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) on the function of the hypothalamo-pituitary-thyroid axis in rats. Toxicology. 2007;238(2-3):192-9. doi: 10.1016/j.tox.2007.06.017. Epub 2007 Jul 3. PMID: 17658655.

- Schlumpf M, Cotton B, Conscience M, Haller V, Steinmann B, Lichtensteiger W. In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens. Environ Health Perspect. 2001 Mar;109(3):239-44. doi: 10.1289/ehp.01109239. PMID: 11333190; PMCID: PMC1240267.

- Janjua NR, Mogensen B, Andersson AM, Petersen JH, Henriksen M, Skakkebaek NE, Wulf HC. Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 May;122(5):1257-61. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22603.x. PMID: 15140223.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Propylene Glycol

Other name: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Other name: Uvinul A Plus

Function: Uv Absorber, Uv Filter

1. Definition Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate:

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, also known as DHHB, is a chemical compound commonly used in cosmetics as a broad-spectrum UV filter. It is classified as a sunscreen agent and is known for its ability to protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays.

2. Use:

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate is primarily used in sunscreen products to provide protection against harmful UV radiation. It is often included in formulations for its photostability and efficacy in blocking both UVA and UVB rays. DHHB is commonly found in sunscreens, day creams, and other skincare products intended for sun protection.

3. Usage Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate:

When using products containing Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Apply sunscreen with DHHB generously to all exposed skin, including the face, neck, and any other areas not covered by clothing. Reapply sunscreen every two hours or more frequently if swimming or sweating. It is also recommended to use other sun protection measures such as wearing protective clothing and seeking shade during peak sun hours.

4. References:

- Kockler J, Oelgemöller M, Robertson S, Glass BD. Photostability of sunscreens. J Photochem Photobiol C Photochem Rev. 2012;13(1):91-110. doi:10.1016/j.jphotochemrev.2011.11.003

- Matta MK, Florian J, Zusterzeel R, et al. Effect of sunscreen application on plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients: A randomized clinical trial. JAMA. 2020;323(3):256-267. doi:10.1001/jama.2019.20747

- Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use. Code of Federal Regulations Title 21, Volume 5. Revised as of April 1, 2020. Accessed June 10, 2021. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=352

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract

Other name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Aloe Vera plant, known for its soothing and healing properties. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and soothe the skin. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and masks, where it can help to calm irritation, reduce redness, and promote overall skin health. Aloe Vera extract is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract:

When using products containing Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, you can safely incorporate the product into your skincare routine. It is also recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian journal of dermatology, 53(4), 163–166. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.44785

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of traditional and complementary medicine, 5(1), 21–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtcme.2014.10.006

- Paulsen, E., Korsholm, L., & Brandrup, F. (2005). A double-blind, placebo-controlled study of a commercial Aloe vera gel in the treatment of slight to moderate psoriasis vulgaris. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 19(3), 326–331. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01203.x

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Evening Primrose plant (Oenothera Biennis). It is rich in essential fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Evening Primrose Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its nourishing and hydrating benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Evening Primrose Oil is also used in hair care products to help strengthen and condition the hair.

3. Usage Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil can be used topically on the skin and hair. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using Evening Primrose Oil, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Evening Primrose Oil, especially for those with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Cheon, M. S., Yoon, T., Lee, D. Y., Choi, G., Moon, B. C., & Chun, J. M. (2014). Evening primrose oil and fish oil in non-alcoholic fatty liver disease: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 37(5), 634-643.

- Hajhashemi, V., & Vaseghi, G. (2018). Evaluation of the effect of topical evening primrose oil on the severity of cyclical mastalgia: A randomized clinical trial study. Complementary Therapies in Medicine, 38, 45-49.

- Senapati, S., & Dey, S. (2019). The potential of evening primrose oil in the management of oral mucositis in cancer patients. Journal of Cancer Research and Therapeutics, 15(6), 1192-1196.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Abrasive

1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and lip balms due to its lightweight texture and non-greasy feel. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is also beneficial for hair care products, as it can help condition and strengthen the hair.

3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Extract:

When using products containing Jojoba Seed Oil Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or used as an ingredient in DIY beauty recipes. Jojoba Seed Oil Extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with allergies to nuts or seeds should use caution.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun. (2003). "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me." 7th Edition.

- Dweck, A. C. (2003). "The Jojoba Story." Personal Care Magazine, 4(1), 1-4.

- Meier, L., & Sticher, O. (2004). "Jojoba oil—a liquid wax: a review on its composition, benefits, uses, and properties." Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 14(1), 1-6.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Zea Mays (Corn) Oil

Function: Solvent, Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Zea Mays (Corn) Oil:

Zea Mays (Corn) Oil is a vegetable oil derived from the germ of corn kernels. It is rich in essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, which helps to nourish and moisturize the skin.

2. Use:

Corn oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, making it an excellent ingredient in moisturizers, creams, lotions, and hair care products. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Zea Mays (Corn) Oil:

Corn oil can be used directly on the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. When using corn oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store corn oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Belsito, D., Bickers, D., Bruze, M., Calow, P., Greim, H., Hanifin, J. M., ... & Saurat, J. H. (2012). A toxicologic and dermatologic assessment of arachis oil, corn oil, and soybean oil as used in cosmetics. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 11(2), 173-231.

- Thakur, R., Jain, N., Pathak, R., Sandhu, S. S., & Sharma, S. (2013). Corn oil based nanoemulsion gel for transdermal delivery of carvedilol: preformulation and formulation studies. Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology, 23(3), 273-282.

- Kaur, G., & Kalia, A. N. (2019). Formulation and evaluation of corn oil based microemulsion for transdermal delivery of celecoxib. Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation, 49(4), 459-469.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Cetearyl Glucoside

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetearyl Glucoside:

Cetearyl Glucoside is a natural emulsifier derived from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. It is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products to stabilize emulsions and create a smooth, creamy texture.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Glucoside is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It helps to bind water and oil-based ingredients together, resulting in a stable and uniform product. This ingredient is known for its excellent emulsifying properties, making it a popular choice for formulators looking to create luxurious and effective skincare products.

3. Usage Cetearyl Glucoside:

When using products containing Cetearyl Glucoside, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by CosmeticsInfo.org

- "Cetearyl Glucoside" by Truth in Aging

- "Cetearyl Glucoside in Cosmetics" by PubMed Central

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Absorbent

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is a natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the Tara tree (Caesalpinia spinosa) native to Peru. It is a hydrolyzed form of the plant gum, which is broken down into smaller molecules for better absorption and effectiveness in cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and skin conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and provide a smooth and supple texture to the skin. This ingredient is often found in moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging products to help nourish and rejuvenate the skin.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivity.

4. References:

- Pons-Guiraud, A. (2018). Moisturizers for acne: what are their constituents? Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 32(2), 18-23.

- Lintner, K., & Mas-Chamberlin, C. (2016). Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives in cosmetics: a review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(1), 1-6.

- Rodrigues, L. M., & Granger, C. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-aging properties of plant-derived natural ingredients in skin care products. Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, 18(10), 837-845.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Preservative

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate:

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a water-soluble compound that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is primarily used as a preservative in cosmetics to extend the shelf life of the product. It is often found in skincare products, hair care products, and makeup to prevent contamination and maintain product quality. Additionally, it is known for its gentle nature, making it suitable for use in products designed for sensitive skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate:

When using products containing Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommended dosage. Overuse of preservatives can potentially cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is also essential to store products properly, away from direct sunlight and moisture, to maintain the effectiveness of the preservative.

4. References:

- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.

- Lodeiro, C., Capelo, J. L., Mejuto, J. C., & Oliveira, E. (2009). Applications of flow-injection methods in the automation of chemical analysis. Talanta, 79(5), 1082-1087.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of sodium hydroxymethylglycinate as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(3_suppl), 5S-21S.

Lactic Acid

Other name: 2-hydroxypropanoic Acid; Milk Acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Exfoliant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Humectant

1. Definition Lactic Acid:

Lactic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally found in milk and various fruits. It is a gentle exfoliant that helps to remove dead skin cells, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.

2. Use:

Lactic acid is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and masks. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin, improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brighten the complexion. Lactic acid is also effective in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, and sun damage.

3. Usage Lactic Acid:

When using products containing lactic acid, it is important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent irritation. It is recommended to use sunscreen daily when using lactic acid products, as they can increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Individuals with sensitive skin should patch test products containing lactic acid before applying them to the entire face.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic dermatology: principles and practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)

Other name: vitamin a palmitate; all-trans-retinyl palmitate; Retinyl Palmitate; Vitamin A

Function:

1. Definition Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

Retinyl Palmitate, also known as Vitamin A palmitate, is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products. It is a combination of retinol (Vitamin A) and palmitic acid.

2. Use:

Retinyl Palmitate is widely used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is known to help improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sun-damaged skin. Additionally, it can help promote cell turnover and collagen production, leading to smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A):

When using skincare products containing Retinyl Palmitate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of Retinyl Palmitate to minimize the risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is also essential to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Retinyl Palmitate, as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327-348.

- Kang, S., Duell, E. A., Fisher, G. J., Datta, S. C., Wang, Z. Q., Reddy, A. P., ... & Voorhees, J. J. (1995). Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. Journal of investigative dermatology, 105(4), 549-556.

- Stamatas, G. N., & Morello, A. P. (2002). The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars. Dermatologic Surgery, 28(3), 220-226.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil

Other name: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil:

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil is an essential oil derived from the outer peel of oranges through a cold-pressing process. It is known for its sweet, citrusy aroma and is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Orange peel oil is often found in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers due to its ability to promote a clear, radiant complexion. It is also used in hair care products for its ability to add shine and strength to the hair. Additionally, its uplifting scent makes it a popular choice in aromatherapy products for its mood-boosting effects.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil:

When using products containing Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, it is important to be cautious of potential skin sensitivities. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to a larger area of skin to ensure there is no adverse reaction. It is also important to avoid direct sunlight after applying products containing this essential oil, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays.

4. References:

- "Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil" in CosIng - European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients. (https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=74866)

- "The effect of orange oil on the skin" by K. Manjula, S. S. Sravanthi, and P. G. M. Kumar in the International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research. (https://ijpsr.com/bft-article/the-effect-of-orange-oil-on-the-skin/?view=fulltext)

- "Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil: an essential oil with antimicrobial and antioxidant activities" by S. S. Dorman and S. G. Deans in the Flavour and Fragrance Journal. (https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ffj.1220)

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum

Other name: Tara Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming, Adhesive

1. Definition Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, also known as tara gum, is a natural gum obtained from the seeds of the Caesalpinia spinosa tree, which is native to Peru. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is often used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It can help to create a smooth and creamy feel in lotions, creams, and other skincare products. Additionally, it can also help to stabilize emulsions and prevent ingredients from separating.

3. Usage Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum:

When using Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. Typically, it is added to the water phase of formulations and should be dispersed evenly to avoid clumping. It is also important to note that Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Gómez-Mascaraque LG, Sánchez G, López-Rubio A. (2019). "Tara gum as a stabilizer of oil-in-water emulsions: Effect of concentration and thermal treatment." Food Hydrocolloids, 87, 958-967.

- Salvia-Trujillo L, Rojas-Graü MA, Soliva-Fortuny R, Martín-Belloso O. (2015). "Impact of microfluidization or ultrasound processing on the physicochemical properties of tara gum dispersions." Food Hydrocolloids, 43, 595-603.

- Guo M, Chen J, Huang J, Zhang X, Zhang H, Wang C. (2019). "Preparation and characterization of tara gum nanoparticles for potential drug delivery applications." Carbohydrate Polymers, 222, 115007.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Exclusive

1. Definition Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract is derived from the grape fruit, specifically from the seeds and skin. It is rich in antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, as well as polyphenols, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote overall skin health.

2. Use:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract is commonly used in skincare products for its antioxidant properties. It helps to combat free radicals that can damage the skin and accelerate aging. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe and calm irritated skin. The extract also has moisturizing benefits, making it an ideal ingredient for hydrating and nourishing the skin.

3. Usage Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract:

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing this extract, apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is safe for daily use and can be incorporated into both morning and evening skincare routines.

4. References:

- Bagchi, D., Garg, A., Krohn, R. L., & Bagchi, M. (Eds.). (2011). Antioxidants in Food, Vitamins and Supplements: Prevention and Treatment of Disease. Academic Press.

- Pallela, R., Na-Young, Y., Kim, S. K. (2016). Anti-photoaging and photoprotective compounds derived from marine organisms. Marine drugs, 14(6), 118.

- Fauzi, A. N., & Sari, P. (2019). The potential of grape seed extract as an anti-inflammatory agent. Journal of Physics: Conference Series, 1167(1), 012077.

Ziziphus Jujuba (Jujube) Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ziziphus Jujuba (Jujube) Extract:

Ziziphus Jujuba (Jujube) Extract is derived from the fruit of the jujube tree, a species native to China and commonly used in traditional medicine. It is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Jujube extract is often used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce signs of aging, and promote overall skin health. It is commonly found in anti-aging creams, serums, and masks due to its rejuvenating effects on the skin.

3. Usage Ziziphus Jujuba (Jujube) Extract:

When using cosmetics containing Jujube Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is best to start with a lower concentration to assess how your skin reacts before increasing the frequency or amount of product used.

4. References:

- Lin, L. T., Liu, L. T., & Chiang, L. C. (2013). In vitro anti-hepatoma activity of fifteen natural medicines from Canada. Phytotherapy Research, 27(4), 631-636.

- Kim, T. H., Kim, J. K., Kang, Y. H., & Lee, N. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Ziziphus jujuba fruit extract on lipopolysaccharide-treated RAW 264.7 cells. Food Science and Biotechnology, 25(3), 921-926.

- Lee, H. J., Lee, Y. J., & Park, S. K. (2014). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of jujube (Ziziphus jujuba) extract on RAW 264.7 macrophage cells. Food Science and Biotechnology, 23(1), 203-209.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Limonene

Other name: L-limonene; D-limonene

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Limonene:

Limonene is a natural compound found in the peels of citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its fresh, citrusy scent.

2. Use:

Limonene is often used in cosmetics to provide a pleasant scent to products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare items. It is also utilized as a solvent in some formulations and can help to enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.

3. Usage Limonene:

When using products containing limonene, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to limonene, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is also advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of limonene on sensitive or broken skin.

4. References:

- Burdock, G. A. (2010). Fenaroli's handbook of flavor ingredients. CRC Press.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Chirico, S. (2012). Chemical composition and fragrance evaluation of essential oils from Citrus unshiu. Journal of essential oil research, 24(1), 61-69.

- Jäger, W., Buchbauer, G., Jirovetz, L., Fritzer, M., & Woidich, A. (1992). Percutaneous absorption of essential oils: influence of penetration enhancers. Journal of pharmaceutical sciences, 81(3), 254-258.

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is a botanical extract derived from the marigold flower, Calendula Officinalis. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its calming and healing benefits. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, Calendula extract is believed to have antioxidant properties that can protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%, depending on the desired effect. When using products containing Calendula extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use. Some individuals may be allergic to Calendula, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2002). Calendula officinalis: A review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 303-306.

- Preethi, K. C., & Kuttan, R. (2009). Wound healing activity of flower extract of Calendula officinalis. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology, 20(1), 73-79.

- Raskovic, A., Milanovic, I., Pavlovic, N., Cebovic, T., Vukmirovic, S., & Mikov, M. (2011). Antioxidant activity of Calendula officinalis L. flower extract. Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica, 68(5), 793-801.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Other name: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract; Rosemary Leaf Extract

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive, Antimicrobial Agent

1. Definition Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is a natural extract derived from the leaves of the rosemary plant. It is known for its antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Rosemary leaf extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help protect the skin from free radicals, which can damage cells and accelerate aging. It is also believed to have astringent properties that can help tighten and tone the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. Additionally, rosemary leaf extract is known for its ability to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract:

Rosemary leaf extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, toners, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5%, depending on the desired benefits. When using products containing rosemary leaf extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Additionally, it is recommended to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Chevallier, Andrew. Encyclopedia of Herbal Medicine. DK Publishing, 2016.

- Dweck, Anthony C. Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients. Taylor & Francis, 2014.

- Koleva, Iskra I. et al. "Screening of plant extracts for antioxidant activity: a comparative study on three testing methods." Phytochemical Analysis, vol. 13, no. 1, 2002, pp. 8-17.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Hexyl Cinnamal

Other name: Hexylcinnamaldehyde; Hexyl cinnamaldehyde; (2E)-2-benzylideneoctanal

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal, also known as hexyl cinnamaldehyde or hexylcinnamal, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, pale yellow liquid with a sweet, floral scent reminiscent of jasmine.

2. Use:

Hexyl Cinnamal is used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetics, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. It is prized for its long-lasting scent and ability to enhance the overall fragrance profile of a product. Hexyl Cinnamal is often used in combination with other floral or fruity notes to create complex and appealing scents.

3. Usage Hexyl Cinnamal:

Hexyl Cinnamal is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used at low concentrations. However, it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hexyl Cinnamal to ensure that no adverse reactions occur. Additionally, pregnant women should consult with their healthcare provider before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/hexyl-cinnamal

- "Safety Assessment of Hexyl Cinnamal" in the International Journal of Toxicology, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581818780985

- "Hexyl Cinnamal" in the European Commission's CosIng Database, https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details_v2&id=30132

Linalool

Function: Masking, Deodorant, Fragrance

1. Definition Linalool:

Linalool is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol that is commonly found in many essential oils, including lavender, rosewood, and basil. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Linalool is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It is commonly found in various products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products to provide a floral or citrusy aroma.

3. Usage Linalool:

When using cosmetics containing linalool, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitization and irritation. Some individuals may be allergic to linalool, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient. It is also important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Andersen, F. A. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of Linalool, linalyl acetate, and Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) oil. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 1-28.

- Opdyke, D. L. (1976). Monographs on fragrance raw materials. Food and Cosmetics Toxicology, 14(5), 479-480.

- Reifenrath, W. G., & Van Beek, T. A. (2013). Linalool and linalool rich essential oils. In Natural Products (pp. 1541-1587). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.

Phytoecdysteroids

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytoecdysteroids:

Phytoecdysteroids are a group of naturally occurring compounds found in plants that have been shown to have various biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. They are structurally similar to the ecdysteroid hormones found in insects and are believed to play a role in regulating plant growth and development.

2. Use:

Phytoecdysteroids are commonly used in cosmetics for their potential skin benefits. They are believed to help improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and promote collagen production. Additionally, they may help protect the skin from environmental damage and improve overall skin health.

3. Usage Phytoecdysteroids:

Phytoecdysteroids can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, serums, and masks. They are typically applied topically to the skin and can be used as part of a daily skincare routine. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or experience any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Dinan L, Lafont R. Effects and applications of arthropod steroid hormones (ecdysteroids) in mammals. J Endocrinol. 2006;191(1):1-8. doi:10.1677/joe.1.06906

- Korkina LG, De Luca C, Pastore S. Plant polyphenols and tumors: from mechanisms to therapies, prevention, and protection against toxicity of anti-cancer treatments. Curr Med Chem. 2009;16(7):884-901. doi:10.2174/092986709787581815

- Slámová K, Kujawska M, Pannecouque C, et al. Ecdysteroids as a novel class of HIV-1 inhibitors. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 2017;27(4):825-830. doi:10.1016/j.bmcl.2017.01.032

Citronellol

Function: Masking, Fragrance

1. Definition Citronellol:

Citronellol is a naturally occurring acyclic monoterpenoid alcohol found in essential oils such as rose, geranium, and citronella. It is known for its pleasant floral aroma and is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citronellol is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient in a wide range of cosmetic products, including perfumes, lotions, creams, and soaps. Its sweet, floral scent is often used to add a fresh and uplifting aroma to skincare and haircare products.

3. Usage Citronellol:

Citronellol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it can cause skin irritation in some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. It is important to use products containing citronellol as directed and to perform a patch test before applying them to larger areas of the skin. Additionally, products containing citronellol should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation of the ingredient.

4. References:

- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). (2013). Opinion on citronellol. European Commission.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Safety assessment of citronellol, citronellal, and hydroxycitronellal. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(1), 21-44.

- Fragrance Materials Association. (2019). Citronellol safety assessment. FMA.

Citral

Other name: Lemonal

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Citral:

Citral is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in the essential oils of plants such as lemon, lemongrass, and orange. It is known for its strong citrus aroma and is often used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Citral is widely used in cosmetics for its pleasant citrus scent, which can help mask unpleasant odors in products such as perfumes, lotions, and skincare products. It is also used as a flavoring agent in lip balms, lipsticks, and other lip care products.

3. Usage Citral:

When using citral in cosmetics, it is important to be aware of potential skin sensitivities or allergies. Citral can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing citral and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Gomes-Carneiro, M. R., Dias, D. M., Paumgartten, F. J., & Azevedo, R. B. (2005). Subchronic toxicity of citral in rats. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 43(9), 1361-1367.

- Prashar, A., Locke, I. C., & Evans, C. S. (2004). Cytotoxicity of citral and limonene in a human melanoma cell line. Phytomedicine, 11(1), 34-40.

- Re, R., Pellegrini, N., Proteggente, A., Pannala, A., Yang, M., & Rice-Evans, C. (1999). Antioxidant activity applying an improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 26(9-10), 1231-1237.

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Other name: Ascorbyl Pamitate

Function: Masking, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.