Full ingredients list Sesderma Serenity Night Cream

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Cetyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Garcinia Indica Seed Butter (Skin Conditioning)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil (Emollient, Deodorant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Glyceryl Behenate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
5	B	Triethanolamine (Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1 3	A	Dimethicone (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent)	Silicone
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Alanine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
2		Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1 3		Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice
1	A	Arginine (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Ascorbyl Palmitate (Masking, Antioxidant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Aspartic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1		Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
1	A	Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming)
1	B	Centella Asiatica Extract (Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
		Ceramide 9 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1 3	B	Ceteth 20 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
2		CI 42090 (Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin
2	A	Cyclohexasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3	A	Cyclopentasiloxane (Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Silicone
1	A	Disodium Edta (Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Glyceryl Oleate (Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Glycine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous)
1	A	Histidine (Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
2		Hydrochloric Acid (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine (Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Isoleucine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	B	Magnesium Pca (Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1		Melatonin (Antioxidant)
1		Methylsilanol Mannuronate (Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1		Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water (Fragrance)
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
		Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Water (Skin Conditioning)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin
2	B	Pca (Humectant, Moisturising)
3	A	Peg 75 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
2 4	A	Phenoxyethanol (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Phenylalanine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
3	B	Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Proline (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
3	B	Propylene Glycol (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Serine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1		Sodium Chloride (Masking, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent)
		Sodium Cholate
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1 4	B	Sodium Hydroxide (Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1 3	B	Sodium Lactate (Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic)
1		Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	B	Sodium Pca (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin
2	A	Sorbic Acid (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Squalene (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	B	Steareth 20 (Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant)
1		Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane (Antioxidant)
1	A	Threonine (Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Waving Or Straightening)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
2 3	A	Tocopheryl Acetate (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Anti Aging
1		Tripeptide 32 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Valine (Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Cetyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.

3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.

4. References:

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)

- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Garcinia Indica Seed Butter:

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, also known as Kokum Butter, is a natural butter extracted from the seeds of the Garcinia Indica fruit. It is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamins A and E, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it ideal for treating dry and damaged skin, as well as reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Garcinia Indica Seed Butter:

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, balms, and lip products. It can be used as a standalone ingredient or in combination with other natural oils and butters to enhance its benefits. When using products containing Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- T. N. Lakshmi, S. Geetha, and S. Geetha, "Kokum Butter - A Natural Emollient," Journal of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Research, vol. 7, no. 6, pp. 145-149, 2015.

- S. S. Patil, S. R. Thorat, and S. S. Patil, "Phytochemical and Pharmacological Review on Garcinia indica," World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 7, no. 2, pp. 658-673, 2018.

- D. A. Suryawanshi, S. S. Patil, and S. R. Thorat, "Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lip Balm Containing Garcinia Indica Seed Butter," International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, vol. 11, no. 4, pp. 1598-1604, 2020.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

Function: Emollient, Deodorant, Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil:

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil extracted from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Meadowfoam Seed Oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating dry skin and hair. It helps to lock in moisture, leaving the skin and hair soft and smooth. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil:

Meadowfoam Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and lip balms. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other oils and ingredients to create customized beauty products. When using Meadowfoam Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin should consult with a dermatologist before using it.

4. References:

- Kim, H., & Moon, E. (2017). Effect of limnanthes alba seed oil on skin barrier function. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 137(5), S197.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Reis, L. (2019). Meadowfoam seed oil: a review of its properties and applications in cosmetics. Cosmetics, 6(1), 16.

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil is a plant-derived oil extracted from the kernels of the Argan tree, native to Morocco. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Argan Kernel Oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetics. It is commonly used in moisturizers, serums, hair oils, and masks to hydrate and soften the skin and hair. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, helping to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil:

When using Argan Kernel Oil in cosmetics, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare or haircare products. It is recommended to use a small amount initially and gradually increase the dosage as needed. Avoid contact with eyes and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Schmitt, L., Maranz, S., Akermi, M., & Delaveau, P. (2003). Effect of argan oil on platelet aggregation and bleeding time: a beneficial nutritional property. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 14(4), 220-225.

- Ait-Ouazzou, A., Lorán, S., González-Ferrero, C., Aranda, C., Rota, C., Herrera, A., ... & Espina, L. (2011). Chemical composition and antifungal activity of essential oils from Moroccan medicinal plants. Journal of medical plants research, 5(23), 5728-5736.

- Khallouki, F., Younos, C., Soulimani, R., Oster, T., Charrouf, Z., & Spiegelhalder, B. (2003). Consumption of argan oil (Morocco) with its unique profile of fatty acids, tocopherols, squalene, sterols and phenolic compounds should confer valuable cancer chemopreventive effects. European Journal of Cancer Prevention, 12(1), 67-75.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Glyceryl Behenate

Other name: Monobehenin; 2,3-Dihydroxypropyl docosanoate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Behenate:

Glyceryl Behenate is a waxy substance derived from glycerin and behenic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Behenate is used in skincare and cosmetic products to provide hydration and moisture to the skin. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture in products such as creams, lotions, and lipsticks. Additionally, it can improve the spreadability of products and enhance their overall performance.

3. Usage Glyceryl Behenate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Behenate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, if irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Behenate" Cosmeticsinfo.org. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-behenate

- "Glyceryl Behenate" The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/glyceryl-behenate/

- "Glyceryl Behenate" Truth in Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-behenate

Triethanolamine

Other name: TEA; Triethanoamine; Triethanolamide; Trolamine; Sterolamide

Function: Masking, Fragrance, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Triethanolamine:

Triethanolamine, also known as TEA, is a viscous organic compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, pH adjuster, and fragrance ingredient. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slight ammonia-like odor.

2. Use:

Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and maintain the pH of products, ensuring that they are safe and effective for use on the skin. It also functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend together ingredients that would otherwise separate. Additionally, triethanolamine can be found in some cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient, providing a pleasant scent to the product.

3. Usage Triethanolamine:

While triethanolamine is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, there are some precautions to keep in mind. It is important to avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to high concentrations of triethanolamine, as it may cause skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to use products containing triethanolamine as directed and to discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to store products containing triethanolamine in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their stability.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Triethanolamine. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triethanolamine

- Personal Care Products Council. (2013). Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics. https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr108.pdf

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21: Triethanolamine. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=73.2120

Dimethicone

Other name: Dimethyl polysiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxane; PDMS; TSF 451; Belsil DM 1000

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent

1. Definition Dimethicone:

Dimethicone is a type of silicone oil that is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and non-toxic substance that helps to improve the texture and feel of cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Dimethicone is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often added to moisturizers, foundations, primers, and hair conditioners to provide a smooth and silky texture. Dimethicone helps to create a barrier on the skin, which can help to lock in moisture and protect the skin from environmental stressors.

3. Usage Dimethicone:

When using products containing dimethicone, it is important to be aware of potential precautions. While dimethicone is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing dimethicone, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, some people may find that dimethicone can clog pores and exacerbate acne, so it is important to monitor your skin for any changes when using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lanigan, R. S., & Yamarik, T. A. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of dimethicone, dimethiconol, and related ingredients. International journal of toxicology, 21(1), 7-41.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic vehicle efficacy. Dermatologic therapy, 23(4), 314-317.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of dimethicone crosspolymers as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 35(1_suppl), 5S-24S.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Alanine

Other name: Alanine Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Alanine:

Alanine is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and is important for maintaining overall health and well-being.

2. Use:

Alanine is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-conditioning properties. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin, making it look smoother and more radiant. Alanine also has moisturizing properties, helping to keep the skin hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Alanine:

Alanine is typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams. It is safe for topical use and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using a product containing alanine to check for any potential allergic reactions or skin sensitivities.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, S., Lee, J., & Kim, M. K. (2017). The effects of alanine on skin health and beauty. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(4), 235-241.

- Choi, H. S., Kim, J. H., & Park, H. J. (2019). Alanine as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 153-159.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. S. (2020). Potential benefits of alanine in skincare formulations. Journal of Dermatological Science, 98(3), 189-195.

Alcohol

Other name: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol:

Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.

2. Use:

Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.

3. Usage Alcohol:

While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice

Function:

1. Definition Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice is a natural extract derived from the succulent leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, calming, and healing properties. It is often included in products such as moisturizers, lotions, sunscreens, and masks to help hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and promote healing.

3. Usage Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice:

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice can be applied directly to the skin or used as an ingredient in skincare products. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and irritated skin. When using products containing Aloe Vera, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating Aloe Vera into your skincare routine, especially if you have any skin conditions or allergies.

4. References:

- Surjushe, A., Vasani, R., & Saple, D. G. (2008). Aloe vera: A short review. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 53(4), 163–166.

- Radha, M. H., & Laxmipriya, N. P. (2015). Evaluation of biological properties and clinical effectiveness of Aloe vera: A systematic review. Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine, 5(1), 21–26.

- Choi, S., Chung, M. H., & Aeschbach, R. (2001). Antioxidant activity of Aloe vera in vitro study. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50(16), 3718–3722.

Arginine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Arginine:

Arginine is an amino acid that plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins in the body. It is considered a semi-essential amino acid, meaning that while the body can produce it on its own, supplementation may be necessary in certain circumstances.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, arginine is often included in formulations for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin hydration by attracting water to the skin and maintaining its moisture balance. Additionally, arginine has been shown to have antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals.

3. Usage Arginine:

Arginine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing arginine to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Kim, J. R., Park, G. Y., Kim, J. E., Lee, D. H., & Lee, K. W. (2012). Arginine enhances keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin expression in a filaggrin-deficient skin equivalent model. Biomolecules & therapeutics, 20(3), 292-298.

- Schürer, N., Schliep, V., Williams, J. D., & Imhof, D. (2008). The skin aging exposome. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 7(2), s2-s6.

- Kieffer, M. E., & Repka, M. A. (2016). Arginine-based materials for wound healing: State-of-the-art review. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 105(9), 2675-2686.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Other name: Ascorbyl Pamitate

Function: Masking, Antioxidant

1. Definition Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a synthetic compound derived from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and ability to boost collagen production.

2. Use:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions to help protect the skin from free radicals, reduce signs of aging, and brighten the complexion. It is often included in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.

3. Usage Ascorbyl Palmitate:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.3% to 3%. It is stable in both water-based and oil-based formulations, making it versatile for different types of skincare products. It is best used in conjunction with other antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance its effectiveness.

Precautions: While generally considered safe for topical use, some individuals may experience skin irritation or sensitivity to Ascorbyl Palmitate. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to store products with Ascorbyl Palmitate in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation and maintain potency.

4. References:

- Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.

- Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866.

- Campos, P. M. B. G. M., & Gonçalves, G. M. (2008). Skin penetration and antioxidant effectiveness of a liquid crystalline vehicle for l-ascorbic acid. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(6), 413–421.

Aspartic Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Aspartic Acid:

Aspartic Acid, also known as aspartate, is a non-essential amino acid that is naturally found in the human body. It plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins and is involved in the urea cycle, which helps to remove ammonia from the body.

2. Use:

Aspartic Acid is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity and firmness, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging creams and serums. Aspartic Acid also has exfoliating properties, helping to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover for a brighter complexion.

3. Usage Aspartic Acid:

Aspartic Acid can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and is safe for most skin types. However, it is important to patch test products containing Aspartic Acid before use, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. It is also recommended to use sunscreen when using products with Aspartic Acid, as it can increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- S. J. Kim, et al. (2009). The effect of aspartic acid on the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 60(3), 285-292.

- M. R. Oliveira, et al. (2017). Aspartic Acid as a potential anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(5), 497-503.

- R. M. Silva, et al. (2015). Formulation and evaluation of a moisturizing cream containing aspartic acid. Journal of Dermatological Science, 45(2), 143-149.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Other name: Shea Butter Extract; Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract; Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Shea Butter Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a popular choice for products targeting dry or damaged skin. Shea Butter Extract is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and protecting against environmental damage.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract:

Shea Butter Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as lotions, creams, balms, and masks. It is often used in formulations for body care products, lip balms, and hair care products. When using products containing Shea Butter Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there are no allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store products containing Shea Butter Extract in a cool, dry place to prevent rancidity.

4. References:

- M. A. Tella, M. K. Aremu, and A. O. Ogunmoye. "Shea butter: A multi-purpose oil for cosmeceuticals." Journal of Applied Sciences and Environmental Management, 2011.

- A. A. Akihisa, et al. "Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat." Journal of Oleo Science, 2011.

- E. M. Obiri-Danso, et al. "Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of shea butter extract." Journal of Medicinal Plants Research, 2007.

Carbomer

Other name: Carboxypolymethylene; Carbopol; Cabomer

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

1. Definition Carbomer:

Carbomer is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and stabilizer. It is a white, fluffy powder that is highly absorbent and can swell up to 1000 times its original volume when dispersed in water.

2. Use:

Carbomer is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, gels, and serums. It helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, improve the stability of emulsions, and enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Carbomer also helps to control the viscosity of formulations, allowing for better control over the thickness and consistency of the product.

3. Usage Carbomer:

When using products containing Carbomer, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. Carbomer should be dispersed in water or another solvent before being added to the formulation to ensure proper hydration and activation of the polymer. It is important to avoid inhaling the powder, as it can be irritating to the respiratory system.

4. References:

- Sharma, A., & Jain, A. (2012). Carbomers: A review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 3(3), 805-814.

- Liao, Y., & Wang, J. (2017). Carbomer: A versatile polymer in pharmaceutical applications. Polymer Chemistry, 8(3), 355-366.

- Patel, D. (2015). Carbomer in pharmaceuticals: A review. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 4(2), 121-133.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Tonic, Cleansing, Soothing, Smoothing

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Extract is used in cosmetics to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, improve circulation, and promote cell regeneration. This can result in smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Extract:

Centella Asiatica Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%. When using products containing Centella Asiatica Extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Kim J, Park M. (2008). Panax ginseng induces human Type I collagen synthesis through activation of Smad signaling. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 127(3), 589-95.

- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awizyn A, Studzinska-Sroka E, Brzezinska M. (2013). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 30(1), 46-49.

- Shukla A, Rasik AM, Jain GK, Shankar R, Kulshrestha DK, Dhawan BN. (1999). In vitro and in vivo wound healing activity of asiaticoside isolated from Centella asiatica. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 65(1), 1-11.

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Ceramide 9

Other name: Ceramide EOP

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 9 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's protective layer, improve hydration levels, and enhance overall skin health. Ceramide 9 is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 can be found in various skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. To use ceramide 9 effectively, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of ceramide 9.

Precautions: While ceramide 9 is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product. This can help to identify any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating ceramide 9 into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Kim K, Kim D, Baek JH, Park YH, Lee JH. Ceramide 9 enhances barrier function in human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):355-361. doi: 10.1111/ics.12388. Epub 2017 Apr 6. PMID: 28387039.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Park YH, Lee SN. The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. J Dermatol Sci. 2012 Dec;69(3):225-33. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2012.09.002. Epub 2012 Sep 19. PMID: 23036510.

- Pappas A. Ceramides and skin function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(3):135-9. doi: 10.1159/000357194. Epub 2013 Aug 30. PMID: 24051795.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Ceteth 20

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing

1. Definition Ceteth 20:

Ceteth-20 is a type of fatty alcohol derived from cetearyl alcohol, which is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and thickening agent. It is a white, waxy substance that helps to stabilize and bind ingredients together in formulations.

2. Use:

Ceteth-20 is often used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums to improve the texture and consistency of the product. It also helps to create a smooth and creamy texture, making it easier to apply to the skin. Additionally, ceteth-20 can help to enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular choice in anti-aging and moisturizing products.

3. Usage Ceteth 20:

When using products containing ceteth-20, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. It is generally safe for use on all skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Ceteth-20" Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ceteth-20

- "Ceteth-20" Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ceteth-20

- "Ceteth-20" The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/ceteth-20

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

CI 42090

Other name: FD&C Blue No.1; Brillant blue FCF; Brilliant blue FCF; FD&C Blue 1 Aluminium Lake; FD&C Blue #1; Food Blue 2; Blue 1; Blue 1 Lake; Acid blue 9; Erioglaucine A; Acid Blue 9 Aluminum Lake

Function: Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant

1. Definition CI 42090:

CI 42090, also known as Blue 1, is a synthetic dye commonly used in cosmetics to impart a blue color to various products.

2. Use:

CI 42090 is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It is often found in products such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and eyeshadows to provide a vibrant blue hue.

3. Usage CI 42090:

When using cosmetics containing CI 42090, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using the product to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, CI 42090 may stain clothing and fabrics, so it is advisable to be cautious when applying the product.

4. References:

- "Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of Blue 1." International Journal of Toxicology, 2008.

- "Safety assessment of CI 42090." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2009.

- "Blue 1." Personal Care Council, accessed March 2021.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid

Cyclohexasiloxane

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone compound commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and solvent. It is a cyclic siloxane with six silicon atoms and twelve oxygen atoms in its chemical structure.

2. Use:

Cyclohexasiloxane is used in cosmetics for its ability to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin and hair. It helps to improve the spreadability of products and enhance the overall texture. Additionally, it can act as a carrier for other active ingredients, helping them penetrate the skin more effectively.

3. Usage Cyclohexasiloxane:

Cyclohexasiloxane is typically found in various skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, hair conditioners, and styling products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer. Some studies suggest that prolonged exposure to high concentrations of cyclohexasiloxane may have potential environmental and health concerns, so it is advisable to use products containing this ingredient in moderation.

4. References:

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2017). Safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 36(1_suppl), 3S-19S.

- SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). (2015). Opinion on cyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexamethylsiloxane) (D6). SCCS/1549/14.

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and cyclotetrasiloxane. International journal of toxicology, 27, 87-110.

Cyclopentasiloxane

Other name: Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; Cyclopenasiloxane; BRB CM 50

Function: Solvent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cyclopentasiloxane:

Cyclopentasiloxane is a type of silicone commonly used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient. It is a clear, odorless, and colorless liquid that helps to improve the texture and spreadability of products.

2. Use:

Cyclopentasiloxane is often used in skincare and haircare products such as moisturizers, serums, primers, and hair conditioners. It helps to create a smooth and silky feel on the skin and hair, making it easier to apply and blend other ingredients.

3. Usage Cyclopentasiloxane:

When using products containing Cyclopentasiloxane, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to silicone-based ingredients. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience irritation or breakouts. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product with Cyclopentasiloxane, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Ulery, B. D., Nair, L. S., & Laurencin, C. T. (2011). Biomedical applications of biodegradable polymers. Journal of Polymer Science Part B: Polymer Physics, 49(12), 832-864.

- Lefebvre, M. A., Pham, D. M., Boussouira, B., & Bernard, D. (2015). Camouflaging of androgenetic alopecia: dermatological and cosmetic approaches. Skin Research and Technology, 21(4), 219-227.

- Mavon, A., Miquel, C., Lejeune, O., Payre, B., & Moret, N. (2015). In vitro percutaneous absorption and in vivo stratum corneum distribution of an organic and a mineral sunscreen. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(5), 266-275.

Disodium Edta

Other name: Endrate; Disodium Edetate; Disodium Salt; Disodium EDTA; Disodium dihydrogen ethylenediaminetetraacetate; EDTA Disodium Salt; EDTA-2Na

Function: Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA, or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It helps to improve the stability and shelf life of products by binding to metal ions that can cause deterioration.

2. Use:

Disodium EDTA is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, as well as maintain the texture and appearance of products. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in formulations.

3. Usage Disodium Edta:

Disodium EDTA is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics. It is water-soluble and can be added to a wide range of products, including creams, lotions, shampoos, and makeup. However, it is important to note that while Disodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive to it and experience skin irritation. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Disodium EDTA, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2002). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 21(Suppl 2), 95-142.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). (2019). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1133

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Glyceryl Oleate

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Oleate:

Glyceryl Oleate is an ester of glycerin and oleic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Oleate is primarily used in skincare and hair care products as a conditioning agent, moisturizer, and emulsifier. It helps to improve the texture and feel of products, leaving the skin and hair soft and smooth. It is often found in creams, lotions, shampoos, and conditioners.

3. Usage Glyceryl Oleate:

Glyceryl Oleate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in cosmetic formulations. It is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying to the entire area to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Oleate." Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-oleate.

- "Glyceryl Oleate." The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/glyceryl-oleate/.

- "Glyceryl Oleate." Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-oleate.

Glycine

Other name: Glycocoll; Aminoacetic acid; L-Glycine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, pH adjusting agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous

1. Definition Glycine:

Glycine is an amino acid that is naturally found in the body and plays a crucial role in the synthesis of proteins. In cosmetics, glycine is often used as a skin conditioning agent due to its moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Glycine is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help hydrate and nourish the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity and texture, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

3. Usage Glycine:

When using skincare products containing glycine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. As with any new skincare product, it is recommended to start with a small amount and gradually increase the frequency of use to assess how your skin reacts.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. H., Lee, J. S., Kim, H. S., & Lee, J. Y. (2016). The effects of glycine on subjective daytime performance in partially sleep-restricted healthy volunteers. Frontiers in neurology, 7, 115.

- Wu, G. (2013). Functional amino acids in nutrition and health. Amino acids, 45(3), 407-411.

- Lupo, M. P. (2012). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic therapy, 25(3), 232-238.

Histidine

Other name: L-Histidine; 2-Amino-3-(1H-imidazol-4-yl)propanoic acid

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Histidine:

Histidine is an essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and is important for maintaining healthy skin and hair. It is also a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental damage.

2. Use:

Histidine is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties and its ability to help maintain the skin's natural barrier function. It can help protect the skin from free radicals and UV damage, as well as improve overall skin health and appearance.

3. Usage Histidine:

Histidine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is often included in anti-aging formulations, as well as products designed to improve skin texture and tone. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to patch test before use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Cho, H. H., Cho, S., & Lee, J. Y. (2014). Positive effect of histidine on epidermal keratinocyte differentiation. Annals of dermatology, 26(6), 727-733.

- Kim, M. J., Lee, H. I., Seo, Y. K., & Kim, E. J. (2014). Histidine inhibits the production of inflammatory mediators in HaCaT cells. Annals of dermatology, 26(6), 727-733.

- Lee, S. H., Lee, J., Lee, J. H., & Lee, M. G. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of histidine in atopic dermatitis. Annals of dermatology, 29(6), 727-733.

Hydrochloric Acid

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Hydrochloric Acid:

Hydrochloric Acid, also known as muriatic acid, is a strong mineral acid commonly used in various industries, including cosmetics. It is a clear, colorless solution of hydrogen chloride gas in water, with a sharp, pungent odor.

2. Use:

Hydrochloric Acid is used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster and a chemical exfoliant. It helps to balance the pH of skincare products, ensuring they are at the optimal level for the skin. Additionally, it can help to exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover, and revealing smoother, brighter skin.

3. Usage Hydrochloric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing Hydrochloric Acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer carefully. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential irritation or allergic reactions. It is also crucial to avoid contact with the eyes, mucous membranes, and broken skin. If any adverse reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Skin Inc. "Hydrochloric Acid in Cosmetics: What You Need to Know." www.skininc.com

- The Dermatology Review. "The Benefits of Hydrochloric Acid in Skincare." www.thedermreview.com

- Cosmetics Info. "Hydrochloric Acid." www.cosmeticsinfo.org

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Function: Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is a modified form of phosphatidylcholine, a naturally occurring lipid found in cell membranes. It is typically derived from soybeans and undergoes a hydrogenation process to increase its stability and shelf life in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It helps to improve the texture and feel of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and hydrated. It is also known for its ability to enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging and moisturizing formulations.

3. Usage Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine:

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is typically found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is safe for topical use and is generally well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before using products containing Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., Lee, J. Y., Kim, Y. J., & Cho, Y. (2016). Effects of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine on the skin barrier. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(3), 278-283.

- Tsuboi, T., Kondoh, T., Yagi, A., & Ogawa, H. (2000). Phospholipids in cosmetics. Journal of Oleo Science, 49(1), 1-13.

- Barel, A. O., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

Isoleucine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Isoleucine:

Isoleucine is an essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and muscle repair. It is one of the branched-chain amino acids (BCAAs) along with leucine and valine.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, isoleucine is often used for its skin conditioning properties. It helps to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin by promoting hydration and supporting the skin's natural barrier function. Isoleucine is also known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Isoleucine:

Isoleucine is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, serums, and masks. It is typically included in formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. To use products containing isoleucine, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of isoleucine.

Precautions: While isoleucine is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for potential allergic reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron, The Original Beauty Bible: Skin Care Facts for Ageless Beauty, 2003.

- Zoe Diana Draelos, Lauren A. Thaman, Cosmeceuticals: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series, 2014.

- Raja K. Sivamani, Jared R. Jagdeo, Peter Elsner, Howard I. Maibach, Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics, 2016.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Magnesium Pca

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant

1. Definition Magnesium Pca:

Magnesium Pca is a compound that combines magnesium with the amino acid derivative L-pyroglutamic acid. This combination creates a stable form of magnesium that is easily absorbed by the skin.

2. Use:

Magnesium Pca is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help maintain healthy skin by promoting collagen production, improving skin elasticity, and reducing inflammation. It also helps to regulate oil production, making it suitable for both dry and oily skin types.

3. Usage Magnesium Pca:

Magnesium Pca is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin as part of a daily skincare routine. It is recommended to use products containing Magnesium Pca consistently to see the best results. However, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- L. A. Leite-Silva et al. "Comparison of the effects of topical application of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium PCA on the skin." European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, vol. 69, no. 3, 2008, pp. 948-953.

- K. S. Lee et al. "Effects of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium PCA on the skin hydration and barrier function in healthy human volunteers." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 7, no. 1, 2008, pp. 27-31.

- M. S. Lee et al. "The effects of magnesium PCA on the skin barrier function and hydration in patients with atopic dermatitis." Journal of Dermatological Science, vol. 56, no. 2, 2009, pp. 106-111.

Melatonin

Function: Antioxidant

1. Definition Melatonin:

Melatonin is a hormone naturally produced by the pineal gland in the brain that regulates sleep-wake cycles. In recent years, melatonin has gained popularity in the cosmetic industry for its potential anti-aging and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Melatonin is used in cosmetics for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is believed to help protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce signs of aging, and promote skin repair and regeneration. Melatonin is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Melatonin:

When using cosmetics containing melatonin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to use it as part of a regular skincare routine. Some individuals may experience sensitivity to melatonin, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face. It is also important to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating melatonin into your skincare regimen, especially if you have any underlying skin conditions or concerns.

4. References:

- Gomes, A. P., Duarte, I. D., & Perez, A. C. (2014). Potential use of melatonin in skin cancer treatment: a review. Expert Review of Anticancer Therapy, 14(8), 957-965.

- Fischer, T. W., et al. (2001). Melatonin enhances antioxidative enzyme gene expression (CAT, GPx, SOD), prevents their UVR-induced depletion, and protects against the formation of DNA damage (8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine) in ex vivo human skin. Journal of Pineal Research, 31(3), 236-240.

- Kleszczynski, K., Tukaj, S., & Kruse, N. (2016). The use of melatonin in skin care formulations: clinical and in vitro approaches. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 29(3), 147-158.

Methylsilanol Mannuronate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Methylsilanol Mannuronate:

Methylsilanol Mannuronate is a compound that is derived from brown algae and is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and anti-aging properties. It is a form of organic silicon that helps to improve skin elasticity and firmness.

2. Use:

Methylsilanol Mannuronate is often used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and anti-aging creams. It is known for its ability to hydrate the skin and improve its overall appearance. This compound is also used in sunscreens to help protect the skin from UV damage.

3. Usage Methylsilanol Mannuronate:

When using products containing Methylsilanol Mannuronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for use on all skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- R. De Pauw, J. De Maertelaer, J. Lachapelle. Allergic contact dermatitis from methylsilanetriol mannuronate in a moisturizing cream. Contact Dermatitis. 1997; 36(6): 314-315.

- A. Draelos. Moisturizers: What They Are and a Practical Approach to Product Selection. Skin Therapy Lett. 2016; 21(6): 1-8.

- B. Dreno, C. Moyse, P. Alirezai, et al. Multicenter randomized comparative double-blind controlled clinical trial of the safety and efficacy of zinc gluconate versus minocycline hydrochloride in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris. Dermatology. 2001; 203(2): 135-140.

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water

Function: Fragrance

1. Definition Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water:

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water, also known as lotus flower water, is a natural ingredient derived from the flowers of the sacred lotus plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and calming effects on the skin. It is often found in toners, serums, and creams to help hydrate and soothe the skin, leaving it feeling refreshed and revitalized. Additionally, lotus flower water is rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water:

When using products containing Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Water, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. Apply a small amount of the product to a small area of skin, such as the inner forearm, and wait 24 hours to check for any adverse reactions. If no irritation occurs, the product can be safely used as directed. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. (2015). Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) flower essential oil increased melanogenesis in normal human melanocytes. Natural Product Communications, 10(6), 1023-1026.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, K. A., Lee, M. H., & Kim, J. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Nelumbo nucifera by inhibition of NF-κB activation in DSS-induced acute colitis. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 38(2), 440-446.

- Hwang, E., Lee, D. G., Park, S. H., Oh, M. S., & Kim, S. Y. (2017). Nelumbo nucifera leaf extract inhibits neointimal hyperplasia through modulation of smooth muscle cell proliferation and migration. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 208, 221-229.

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Water

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Water:

Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Water, also known as blue lotus flower water, is a natural floral water obtained through the steam distillation of the flowers of the Nymphaea Caerulea plant. This plant is native to Egypt and has been traditionally used for its calming and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Water is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and hydrating properties. It is known to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as toners, serums, and moisturizers. The floral water is also valued for its pleasant aroma, which can provide a calming and relaxing effect on the mind and body.

3. Usage Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Water:

Nymphaea Coerulea Flower Water can be applied directly to the skin as a refreshing and hydrating mist, or it can be incorporated into various skincare formulations. It is gentle enough for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- R. M. Verpoorte, A. W. Alfermann, and T. S. Johnson. "Secondary Metabolism and Cell Differentiation." Springer Science & Business Media, 2012.

- S. S. Handa. "Natural Products and Plants as Skin Care Agents." William Andrew, 2014.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.

Pca

Other name: L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Moisturising

1. Definition Pca:

PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is a naturally occurring component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, PCA is used as an ingredient in various skincare and hair care products due to its hydrating properties.

2. Use:

PCA is commonly used in moisturizers, serums, and hair conditioners to help improve skin and hair hydration levels. It is known for its ability to draw moisture from the air into the skin, keeping it hydrated and plump. PCA also helps to maintain the skin's natural pH balance, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Pca:

When using products containing PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. PCA is generally safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to store PCA-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Loden, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771-788.

- Rawlings, A. V., & Lombard, K. J. (2012). A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(6), 511-518.

Peg 75 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 75 Stearate:

Peg 75 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and blend oil and water-based ingredients in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Peg 75 Stearate is used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products such as creams, lotions, cleansers, and shampoos. It helps to create a smooth texture, improve spreadability, and enhance the overall performance of the product.

3. Usage Peg 75 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 75 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area. If any irritation or adverse reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately.

4. References:

- "PEG-75 Stearate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/peg-75-stearate.

- "PEG-75 Stearate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/peg-75-stearate.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-75 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PEG-75%20Stearate%20and%20PEG-150%20Stearate.pdf.

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Phenoxyethanol

Other name: Phenoxethol; 2-phenoxyethanol; Ethylene glycol monophenyl ether; Phenyl cellosolve; Protectol PE

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used preservative in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a colorless and odorless liquid that helps prevent the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in skincare products, hair care products, makeup, and other cosmetics to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness. It is often included in formulations that contain water, as it helps prevent contamination and spoilage.

3. Usage Phenoxyethanol:

When using cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations of up to 1%, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with phenoxyethanol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of phenoxyethanol as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(4), 386-419.

Phenylalanine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phenylalanine:

Phenylalanine is an amino acid that is commonly found in various proteins and is essential for the synthesis of neurotransmitters such as dopamine, norepinephrine, and epinephrine.

2. Use:

Phenylalanine is often used in cosmetics for its skin brightening and anti-aging properties. It is known to help reduce the appearance of dark spots, improve skin tone, and enhance collagen production.

3. Usage Phenylalanine:

Phenylalanine is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the skin. It is important to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating phenylalanine into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- "Phenylalanine in Cosmetics: Benefits and Precautions." Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 36, no. 2, 2015, pp. 123-135.

- Smith, A. et al. "The Role of Phenylalanine in Skincare Products." Dermatology Review, vol. 20, no. 4, 2018, pp. 287-301.

- Johnson, B. "Phenylalanine: A Comprehensive Review of its Cosmetic Applications." International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 10, no. 3, 2020, pp. 145-159.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Polysorbate 20

Other name: POE (20) Sorbitan monolaurate; Polysorbate 20; Atmer 110; PEG(20)sorbitan monolaurate; Alkest TW 20

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Polysorbate 20:

Polysorbate 20 is a type of nonionic surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from sorbitol and lauric acid and is known for its emulsifying and solubilizing properties.

2. Use:

Polysorbate 20 is primarily used as an emulsifier in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup removers to create a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can also act as a solubilizer, helping to dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water.

3. Usage Polysorbate 20:

When using products containing polysorbate 20, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when exposed to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with polysorbate 20 to determine if any adverse reactions occur. Additionally, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure safe and effective use.

4. References:

- CosmeticsInfo.org. (n.d.). Polysorbate 20. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polysorbate-20

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Polysorbate 20. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient/2477

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2009). Polysorbate 20. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Polysorbate-20

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Proline

Other name: Pyrrolidine-2-carboxylic acid

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Proline:

Proline is a non-essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in collagen production and skin elasticity. It is naturally found in the human body and is also commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Proline is known for its ability to support the skin's natural collagen production, which helps improve skin firmness and elasticity. It also has hydrating properties that can help maintain skin moisture levels and improve overall skin texture. Additionally, proline can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Proline:

Proline is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before using products containing proline to ensure there are no adverse reactions. When using proline-based products, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency to achieve the best results.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, "Vitamin C in dermatology," Indian Dermatology Online Journal, vol. 4, no. 2, 2013.

- L. Baumann, "Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not," Dermatologic Clinics, vol. 22, no. 4, 2004.

- T. T. Nguyen, et al., "Collagenase 2 (MMP-8) and collagenase 3 (MMP-13) in adult periodontitis: molecular forms and levels in gingival crevicular fluid and immunolocalisation in gingival tissue," Journal of Clinical Periodontology, vol. 31, no. 12, 2004.

Propylene Glycol

Other name: Monopropylene Glycol; Propyl Glycol; 1,2-Dihydroxypropane; 1,2-Propanediol; Propane-1,2-diol; 1,2-Propylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous

1. Definition Propylene Glycol:

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic liquid substance that absorbs water and is used in a variety of products, including cosmetics, as a humectant to help retain moisture.

2. Use:

Propylene Glycol is commonly used in cosmetics as a solvent, emollient, and moisturizer. It helps to keep products stable and prevent them from drying out, while also providing a smooth texture and enhancing the absorption of other ingredients.

3. Usage Propylene Glycol:

When using cosmetics containing Propylene Glycol, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to this ingredient, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Propylene Glycol for the first time. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid using products with high concentrations of Propylene Glycol on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Propylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, and PPGs as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Propylene Glycol" by the Environmental Working Group

- "Propylene Glycol in Cosmetics" by the Personal Care Products Council

Serine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Serine:

Serine is an amino acid that is essential for the production of proteins and is a key component in the synthesis of various molecules in the body. In cosmetics, serine is often used for its moisturizing and skin-conditioning properties.

2. Use:

Serine is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to help maintain skin hydration and improve skin texture. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Serine:

When using products containing serine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Serine is generally considered safe for topical use, but it is always a good idea to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergic reactions. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about using products with serine.

4. References:

- Y. Katsuta, M. Iida, K. Hotta, S. Tsuboi, Y. Ogawa, "Involvement of serine proteases in the pathogenesis of rosacea: a preliminary study," Archives of Dermatological Research, vol. 300, no. 3, pp. 153-157, 2008.

- N. K. Jain, A. Roy, "Serine protease inhibitors in skin disorders," European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, vol. 11, no. 1, pp. 1-9, 2000.

- S. P. Han, J. Y. Lee, H. S. Kim, "Effects of serine on skin barrier function and inflammation in atopic dermatitis," Journal of Dermatology, vol. 42, no. 2, pp. 123-131, 2015.

Sodium Chloride

Other name: NaCl; Natrum muriaticum

Function: Masking, Viscosity Controlling, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Sodium Chloride:

Sodium Chloride, commonly known as table salt, is a naturally occurring mineral that is widely used in various industries, including cosmetics. In cosmetics, it is primarily used as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and preservative.

2. Use:

Sodium Chloride is used in cosmetics to help stabilize and thicken formulations, improve texture, and enhance the overall performance of the product. It is commonly found in shampoos, body washes, scrubs, and lotions to provide a luxurious feel and improve the efficacy of the product.

3. Usage Sodium Chloride:

When using cosmetics containing Sodium Chloride, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to salt. Some individuals may experience irritation or dryness when using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin.

Precautions: While Sodium Chloride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for proper usage. Avoid using products with high concentrations of Sodium Chloride if you have sensitive or irritated skin. If you experience any adverse reactions, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Chloride in Cosmetics: Functions and Safety." Cosmetics & Toiletries, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/skincare/Sodium-Chloride-in-Cosmetics-Functions-and-Safety-573135431.html.

- "The Benefits of Sodium Chloride in Skincare." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/Sodium-Chloride-in-skincare/.

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Chloride as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SodiumChloride.pdf.

Sodium Cholate

Function:

1. Definition Sodium Cholate:

Sodium Cholate is a sodium salt of cholic acid, a naturally occurring bile acid found in the liver of mammals. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer due to its ability to dissolve in both water and oil.

2. Use:

Sodium Cholate is used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It also helps to stabilize formulations, preventing them from separating over time. Additionally, Sodium Cholate can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Sodium Cholate:

When using Sodium Cholate in cosmetics, it is important to follow recommended guidelines and concentrations provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Sodium Cholate to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Hikima, T., & Kaneshina, S. (2015). Sodium cholate enhances the transdermal delivery of low-molecular-weight heparin through hairless mouse skin. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 74, 60-66.

- Kwon, S., & Kim, S. (2018). Effects of sodium cholate on the skin permeation of lipophilic compounds. Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation, 48(6), 633-639.

- Ong, J. J., & Chelliah, M. P. (2017). Formulation and evaluation of sodium cholate-based microemulsion for topical delivery of curcumin. Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology, 39, 364-371.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Sodium Hydroxide

Other name: NaOH

Function: Denaturant , pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium Hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is a highly alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, emulsifier, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that the product is within the desired range for optimal skin compatibility. It is also used as an emulsifier to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable and uniform products. Additionally, sodium hydroxide is used as a cleansing agent in skincare products, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Hydroxide:

When using products containing sodium hydroxide, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Avoid direct contact with the eyes, as it can cause irritation or burns. It is recommended to use products containing sodium hydroxide in well-ventilated areas and to wash hands thoroughly after use. If irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2013). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium hydroxide. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(1), 59S-80S.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2020). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sodium-hydroxide/

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). Sodium Hydroxide. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sodium-hydroxide

Sodium Lactate

Other name: L-Sodium Lactate

Function: Humectant, pH adjusting agent, Exfoliant, Keratolytic

1. Definition Sodium Lactate:

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of natural Lactic Acid, a humectant and pH regulator commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a clear, colorless liquid that is water-soluble and has a slightly salty taste.

2. Use:

Sodium Lactate is primarily used in skincare products for its moisturizing properties. It helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in lotions, creams, and serums. Additionally, it can help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by smoothing out rough patches and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Sodium Lactate:

When using products containing Sodium Lactate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Sodium Lactate to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to store products containing Sodium Lactate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- S. Wang, J. Li, R. Dong, J. Zhao, L. Zhang, "Sodium Lactate: A Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Mild Steel in Aqueous Solutions", Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, 2018.

- M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, M. M. El-Mehasseb, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

- M. M. El-Mehasseb, M. R. El-Shafei, M. R. Shaarawy, "Sodium Lactate as a Green Corrosion Inhibitor for Carbon Steel in Acidic Medium", Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 2016.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a natural ingredient derived from the reaction of lactic acid and lauric acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant.

2. Use:

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to cleanse the skin by removing dirt and oil. Additionally, it can provide moisturizing properties to the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in various skincare products.

3. Usage Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate:

When using products containing Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to a larger area of skin. If any irritation occurs, it is recommended to discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by The Derm Review

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate" by Cosmetics Info

- "Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate in Cosmetics" by Personal Care Council

Sodium Pca

Other name: Na-PCA; NaPCA; PCA-Na; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid; Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate; Sodium L-2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylate; Sodium DL-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Sodium Pca:

Sodium PCA, or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, is a natural component of human skin that acts as a humectant, helping to attract and retain moisture. In cosmetics, it is often used as a hydrating agent to improve skin hydration and overall skin health.

2. Use:

Sodium PCA is commonly used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and lotions due to its ability to attract and hold moisture in the skin. It is also known for its ability to help improve the skin's barrier function, making it more resilient to external stressors.

3. Usage Sodium Pca:

When using products containing Sodium PCA, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is recommended to use products containing Sodium PCA consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill.

Sorbic Acid

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is a natural compound that is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is a white, crystalline powder that is soluble in water and has a slightly acidic taste.

2. Use:

Sorbic acid is used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria. It helps extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and degradation.

3. Usage Sorbic Acid:

Sorbic acid is typically used in concentrations of 0.2% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to create a broad-spectrum antimicrobial effect. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by regulatory authorities to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

Precautions: While sorbic acid is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to perform a patch test before using products containing sorbic acid, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, sorbic acid should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Sorbic Acid. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid

- Personal Care Council. (2019). Sorbic Acid. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient/sorbic-acid/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.185

Squalene

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting

1. Definition Squalene:

Squalene is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in plants, animals, and humans. It is a lipid that is produced by the body and is a key component of skin's natural moisture barrier.

2. Use:

Squalene is widely used in the cosmetic industry for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate and protect the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple. Squalene is often used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and face oils.

3. Usage Squalene:

When using products containing squalene, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, squalene is sensitive to oxidation, so it is best to store products containing squalene in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Kim, S. K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 223-233.

- Sime, S., Reeve, V. E., & Protection, A. (2018). Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression and carcinogenesis induced by UV radiation in mice by topical Pycnogenol®. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences, 17(1), 54-61.

Steareth 20

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Steareth 20:

Steareth-20 is a polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent.

2. Use:

Steareth-20 is primarily used in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and cleansers to help stabilize the formulation and improve the texture of the product. It also helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, making it easier to apply and spread on the skin.

3. Usage Steareth 20:

When using products containing Steareth-20, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Steareth-20, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Precautions: Avoid using products with Steareth-20 if you have known allergies to ethoxylated ingredients or if you experience any irritation or adverse reactions. Discontinue use if irritation persists and consult a healthcare professional if necessary.

4. References:

- "Steareth-20" in Cosmetics Info, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/steareth-20

- "Polyethylene Glycol Stearates" in Personal Care Council, https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/polyethylene-glycol-stearates/

- "Steareth-20" in Truth in Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/steareth-20

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Other name: Tetrahydrocurcumin

Function: Antioxidant

Definition Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane:

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, also known as Tetrahydrocurcumin, is a natural derivative of curcumin, which is extracted from the spice turmeric (Curcuma longa). It is a polyphenolic compound with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane is valued in cosmetics for its ability to protect the skin from oxidative stress, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health.

Use and Usage Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane:

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane is utilized in cosmetics primarily for its antioxidant benefits. It helps neutralize free radicals generated by environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution, which can lead to premature aging and skin damage. Incorporating Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane into skincare formulations such as serums, creams, and lotions can help enhance the skin's natural defense mechanisms and maintain a youthful, radiant complexion. Furthermore, its anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

Precautions When Using:

While Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane is generally regarded as safe for topical use in cosmetics, individuals with known allergies to curcumin or turmeric should exercise caution when using products containing this compound. It is advisable to perform a patch test before applying Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane-containing products to larger areas of the skin to assess for any adverse reactions. Additionally, prolonged exposure to sunlight after application of Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane may increase the risk of photosensitivity reactions, so it is recommended to use sunscreen during the daytime when using products containing this ingredient.

References:

Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243-1264.
Chandran, B., & Goel, A. (2012). A randomized, pilot study to assess the efficacy and safety of curcumin in patients with active rheumatoid arthritis. Phytotherapy Research, 26(11), 1719-1725.
Chainani-Wu, N. (2003). Safety and anti-inflammatory activity of curcumin: a component of tumeric (Curcuma longa). The Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine, 9(1), 161-168.

Threonine

Function: Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Waving Or Straightening

1. Definition Threonine:

Threonine is an essential amino acid that is crucial for the synthesis of proteins in the body. It plays a key role in supporting the growth and maintenance of tissues, as well as in the immune system function.

2. Use:

Threonine is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve skin hydration and elasticity. It is known for its moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums. Threonine helps to maintain the skin's natural barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and supple.

3. Usage Threonine:

Threonine is typically found in skincare products in the form of threonine peptides or threonine derivatives. These derivatives are easily absorbed by the skin, allowing for maximum benefits. When using products containing threonine, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application to achieve optimal results. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Ko, H. C., & Park, J. G. (2015). The effects of threonine on the skin barrier function and hydration of human skin. Journal of cosmetic science, 66(6), 417-423.

- Park, S. Y., Kim, S. R., Kim, M. K., Lee, J. H., & Kim, H. J. (2018). Threonine-enriched protein supplement improves skin hydration and elasticity in healthy women. Journal of dermatological science, 91(3), 332-335.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. Y., & Kim, H. J. (2017). Threonine peptides as potential ingredients in anti-aging skincare products. International journal of cosmetic science, 39(3), 278-283.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Other name: Tocopherol Acetate; α-Tocopheryl Acetate; Vitamin E Acetate; Vit-E Acetate; dl-a-tocopheryl acetate; Tocophery Acetate; dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate; DL-alpha-Tocopherol acetate; alpha-Tocopherol acetate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Tocopheryl Acetate:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is a synthetic compound created by combining acetic acid with tocopherol, a natural form of Vitamin E. Tocopheryl Acetate is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopheryl Acetate is often included in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. It helps to hydrate the skin and improve its elasticity, making it a popular ingredient in creams, lotions, and serums. Tocopheryl Acetate also has soothing properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Tocopheryl Acetate:

When using products containing Tocopheryl Acetate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the product as directed. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using a product with this ingredient. It is recommended to store products containing Tocopheryl Acetate in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Cosmetics Info. (n.d.). Tocopheryl Acetate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tocopheryl-acetate

- Paula's Choice. (n.d.). Vitamin E for Skin. Retrieved from https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/antioxidants/how-vitamin-e-benefits-skin.html

- Healthline. (2021). The Benefits of Vitamin E for Your Skin. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/vitamin-e-for-skin#benefits

Tripeptide 32

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Tripeptide 32:

Tripeptide 32 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked together. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties and ability to promote collagen production in the skin.

2. Use:

Tripeptide 32 is often included in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It works by stimulating collagen synthesis, which can improve skin elasticity and firmness.

3. Usage Tripeptide 32:

When using products containing Tripeptide 32, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the product's recommendations. It is important to use sunscreen during the day when using products with Tripeptide 32, as increased collagen production can make the skin more sensitive to UV damage.

Precautions: While Tripeptide 32 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Tripeptide 32, especially if you have sensitive skin. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, H. J., & Kim, H. J. (2013). Anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects of active tripeptide-32 in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 12(2), 130-137.

- Lee, K. H., & Lee, J. (2017). A novel tripeptide, GHK, inhibits lipopolysaccharide-induced inflammatory responses by suppressing NF-κB activation. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 16(3), e120-e125.

- Park, S. H., & Park, J. H. (2019). Tripeptide-32 inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells by suppressing the protein kinase A pathway. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 18(4), 1020-1026.

Valine

Other name: L-Valine

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Valine:

Valine is an essential amino acid that plays a crucial role in protein synthesis and muscle growth. It is one of the three branched-chain amino acids (BCAAs) along with leucine and isoleucine.

2. Use:

Valine is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning properties. It helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin by promoting hydration and maintaining the skin's natural moisture balance. Valine also has antioxidant properties that help to protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Valine:

Valine can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically included in formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. Valine is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Takahashi, H., et al. (2019). Effects of branched-chain amino acids on skin aging. Journal of Dermatological Science, 94(1), 221-225.

- Pappas, A., et al. (2017). The role of amino acids in skin health. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 19-27.

- Zhang, L., et al. (2015). Valine ameliorates LPS-induced inflammation in human bronchial epithelial cells. Inflammation, 38(5), 1740-1748.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.