Full ingredients list Skoon Retinin Cream

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract	Acne fighting
1	A	Biosaccharide Gum 1 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Lactobacillus Ferment (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Octyldodecanol (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
		Chd-Fulvic Acid
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Cyclodextrin (Chelating Agent, Absorbent)
1	A	Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Sodium Levulinate (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Lupinus Albus Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Sodium Anisate (Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent)
2	A	Ethylhexylglycerin (Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Lysolecithin (Surfactant, Emulsifying)
1	A	Sclerotium Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2		Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1	A	Dextran (Viscosity Controlling, Binding Agent, Binding, Bulking Agent)
1		Sodium Phytate (Chelating Agent)
1		Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2 (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Isomalt (Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent)
1	A	Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning)
1		Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Pullulan (Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	A	Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Hyaluronic Acid (Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising)	Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Pentylene Glycol (Solvent, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
5 6		Retinal (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning)
1		Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (Perfuming, Fragrance, Film Forming, Adhesive)
1		Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1 3	A	Sodium Benzoate (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive)
1		Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 Norleucine Acetate

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

Function:

Definition Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the white willow tree (Salix alba). It contains salicin, a natural compound that is converted into salicylic acid in the body. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Salix Alba Bark Extract is utilized in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to gently exfoliate the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health.

Use and Usage Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Alba Bark Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and exfoliants. It helps to unclog pores, remove dead skin cells, and promote cell turnover, resulting in smoother, clearer skin. Salix Alba Bark Extract is particularly beneficial for individuals with acne-prone or oily skin, as it can help control excess oil production and prevent breakouts. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin conditions.

Precautions When Using:

While Salix Alba Bark Extract is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, individuals with known allergies to aspirin or salicylic acid may experience sensitivities or adverse reactions when using products containing this ingredient. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with Salix Alba Bark Extract extensively, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergic reactions to skincare ingredients. Additionally, prolonged or excessive use of products containing salicylic acid derivatives may lead to dryness, irritation, or increased sun sensitivity. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions and incorporate sunscreen into your skincare routine when using products containing Salix Alba Bark Extract to protect the skin from potential sun damage.

References:

Garg, S., & Mehta, A. (2016). Evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of Salix alba Linn. (White Willow Bark). International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research, 8(7), 1143-1147.
Jung, H. A., Kim, J. E., & Chung, H. Y. (2008). Chin YW. ACE inhibitors from Salix glandulosa.* Arch Pharm Res, 31(12), 1517-1522.
Gfeller, H., & Böni, R. (1995). Acne vulgaris: current concepts in the pathogenesis and treatment. Dermatology, 191(1), 1-7.

Biosaccharide Gum 1

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of plant sugars, specifically glucose and sucrose. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its hydrating and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is often included in skincare products for its ability to provide long-lasting hydration to the skin. It forms a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to prevent moisture loss and maintain skin's natural barrier function. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm and soothe irritated skin.

3. Usage Biosaccharide Gum 1:

Biosaccharide Gum 1 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and masks, where it can help improve skin hydration levels and overall skin health. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use, apply a product containing Biosaccharide Gum 1 to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P. (2009). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349.

- Rawlings, A. V. (2003). Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(1-2), 63-95.

- Seité, S., & Misery, L. (2016). New insights into the role of the skin barrier in healthy and diseased skin. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2016.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

Coconut oil, derived from the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), is a versatile and widely used natural oil in the cosmetic industry. It is rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Coconut oil is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it an excellent choice for hydrating the skin and hair. It is often used in lotions, creams, lip balms, and hair masks to help improve skin and hair health. Additionally, coconut oil has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for treating various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne.

3. Usage Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil:

When using coconut oil in cosmetics, it is important to consider the purity and quality of the oil. Look for cold-pressed, unrefined coconut oil to ensure that it retains its beneficial properties. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using coconut oil on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, to avoid any potential allergic reactions. Coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY beauty products.

4. References:

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

- Nevin, K. G., & Rajamohan, T. (2010). Beneficial effects of virgin coconut oil on lipid parameters and in vitro LDL oxidation. Clinical biochemistry, 43(4-5), 349-357.

Lactobacillus Ferment

Other name: Lactobacillus Ferment Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic ingredient derived from the fermentation of Lactobacillus bacteria. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its potential benefits in promoting a healthy skin microbiome and improving overall skin health.

2. Use:

Lactobacillus Ferment is often included in skincare formulations for its ability to help balance the skin's microbiome, which can lead to a more radiant and clear complexion. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties and can help strengthen the skin's natural barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors.

3. Usage Lactobacillus Ferment:

Lactobacillus Ferment is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, and can be used in both morning and evening skincare routines. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing this ingredient. To maximize its benefits, it is best to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and incorporate it into a consistent skincare regimen.

4. References:

- Kim, H., An, S., Lee, S. H., Lee, S., Cha, Y. J., & Lee, H. S. (2017). Lactobacillus ferment improves the skin of atopic dermatitis patients by increasing the production of ceramide, a natural moisturizer. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(4), 454-460.

- Kim, J. H., & Lee, S. H. (2018). Lactobacillus ferment extract improves the skin barrier function in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 694-699.

- Kober, M. M., & Bowe, W. P. (2015). The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoaging. International Journal of Women's Dermatology, 1(2), 85-89.

Octyldodecanol

Other name: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Octyldodecanol:

Octyldodecanol is a clear, colorless liquid alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. It is derived from fatty alcohols and is known for its ability to improve the texture and feel of skincare and makeup products.

2. Use:

Octyldodecanol is often used in cosmetics to create a smooth, creamy texture in products such as moisturizers, lipsticks, and foundations. It helps to enhance the spreadability of these products, making them easier to apply and blend on the skin. Additionally, octyldodecanol can also act as a conditioning agent, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.

3. Usage Octyldodecanol:

When using products containing octyldodecanol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to avoid products with high concentrations of octyldodecanol to prevent irritation.

4. References:

- "Octyldodecanol." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/octyldodecanol.

- "Octyldodecanol." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/octyldodecanol/.

- "Octyldodecanol." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/octyldodecanol.

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables are a complex mixture of lipids, sterols, and other bioactive compounds derived from the unsaponifiable fraction of wheat germ oil. These unsaponifiables are known for their moisturizing, soothing, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables are commonly used in skincare and haircare products for their nourishing and protective benefits. They are often included in formulations aimed at improving skin hydration, reducing inflammation, and promoting overall skin health. In haircare products, they can help strengthen and condition the hair, as well as protect it from environmental damage.

3. Usage Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables:

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and shampoos. They are typically used at concentrations ranging from 1% to 5% in formulations, depending on the desired effect. It is important to note that individuals with wheat allergies should avoid products containing Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables to prevent any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choe E, Min DB. Mechanisms of antioxidants in the oxidation of foods. Compr Rev Food Sci Food Saf. 2009;8(4):345-358.

- Gharby S, Harhar H, Guillaume D, et al. Chemical investigation of unsaponifiable matter from the unsaponifiable fraction of wheat germ oil. Chem Cent J. 2017;11:20.

- Katsarou A, Gioxari A, Giokas G, et al. Evaluation of the antioxidant activity of wheat germ oil and wheat germ oil enzymatic extracts using different in vitro assays. J Food Qual. 2018;2018:1-10.

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Chd-Fulvic Acid

Function:

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Cyclodextrin

Function: Chelating Agent, Absorbent

1. Definition Cyclodextrin:

Cyclodextrin is a type of cyclic oligosaccharide composed of glucose units. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a complexing agent to improve the stability, solubility, and bioavailability of various active ingredients.

2. Use:

Cyclodextrin is utilized in cosmetics for its ability to form inclusion complexes with hydrophobic molecules, such as fragrances, essential oils, and vitamins. By encapsulating these ingredients within the cavity of the cyclodextrin molecule, their volatility and reactivity can be reduced, leading to improved performance and longevity in cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Cyclodextrin:

When using cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to consider the compatibility of the complexing agent with other ingredients in the formulation. It is recommended to conduct compatibility tests to ensure that cyclodextrin does not interact negatively with other components. Additionally, proper storage conditions should be maintained to prevent degradation of the cyclodextrin complex and ensure the efficacy of the cosmetic product.

4. References:

- Loftsson, T., & Brewster, M. E. (1996). Pharmaceutical applications of cyclodextrins. 1. Drug solubilization and stabilization. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 85(10), 1017-1025.

- Trotta, F., & Debernardi, F. (2017). Cyclodextrin-based nanosponges as drug carriers. Beilstein Journal of Organic Chemistry, 13, 1116-1131.

- Jansook, P., Ogawa, N., & Loftsson, T. (2018). Cyclodextrins: structure, physicochemical properties and pharmaceutical applications. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 535(1-2), 272-284.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, also known as Marula oil, is a natural oil extracted from the kernels of the Marula fruit, which is native to Southern Africa. It is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamins E and C, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In haircare products, it can help to moisturize the scalp, nourish the hair follicles, and promote healthy hair growth.

3. Usage Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil:

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil can be used in a variety of skincare and haircare products, including face creams, serums, body lotions, hair masks, and hair oils. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other ingredients. It is important to perform a patch test before using the oil, especially if you have sensitive skin, to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation and maintain its potency.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., & Wiesman, Z. (2003). Evidence for indigenous selection and distribution of the marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra) in Southern Africa. Agroforestry Systems, 59(3), 217-228.

- Van Wyk, B. E., & Gericke, N. (2000). People's plants: A guide to useful plants of southern Africa. Briza Publications.

- Franz, C., & Novak, J. (2003). Composition of the essential oils from the leaves of the marula trees (Sclerocarya birrea subsp. caffra). Journal of Essential Oil Research, 15(5), 335-337.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Sodium Levulinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.

4. References:

- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.

- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.

- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lupinus Albus Seed Oil:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Lupinus Albus plant, also known as white lupin. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, promote collagen production, and protect against environmental damage. In hair care products, it can help to strengthen and condition the hair, improve manageability, and add shine.

3. Usage Lupinus Albus Seed Oil:

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, facial oils, hair masks, and conditioners. It is typically used in small concentrations and can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or incorporated into formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and mature skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare or hair care routine.

4. References:

- Puglia C, et al. (2015). Chemical composition and antioxidant properties of seed oil from Lupinus albus L. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25900791/

- Lopes G, et al. (2017). White Lupin (Lupinus albus L.) Seed Oil: A Rich Source of Alpha-Linolenic Acid with Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28587226/

- Gómez-Caravaca AM, et al. (2019). Lupinus albus Seed Oil: A Potential New Source of Health-Beneficial Omega-3 Fatty Acids. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31561475/

Sodium Anisate

Other name: 4-Methoxybenzoic acid sodium salt

Function: Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is a sodium salt derived from anisic acid, which is a naturally occurring organic compound found in anise. It is commonly used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Sodium Anisate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is typically added to cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into various types of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure product safety and efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of sodium anisate against Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Science, 80(8), M1794-M1799.

- Puglia, C., Bonina, F., & Ingrassia, R. (2017). Sodium anisate as cosmetic preservative: Part I. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(1), 43-51.

- Gao, W., & Chen, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of sodium anisate and its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(3), 197-206.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Other name: Octoxyglycerin

Function: Deodorant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from vegetable glycerin and is commonly used in cosmetics as a skin conditioning agent and preservative. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a faint odor.

2. Use:

Ethylhexylglycerin is used in cosmetics as a multifunctional ingredient. It acts as a skin conditioning agent, moisturizer, and preservative. It helps to improve the texture and feel of the product, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Additionally, it has antimicrobial properties that help to extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi.

3. Usage Ethylhexylglycerin:

Ethylhexylglycerin is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. It can also be used in hair care products like shampoos and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing Ethylhexylglycerin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/ethylhexylglycerin.

- "Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ethylhexylg012017rep.pdf.

- "Ethylhexylglycerin." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Lysolecithin

Function: Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin, also known as lysophosphatidylcholine, is a phospholipid derivative that is commonly used in cosmetics for its emulsifying and skin-conditioning properties. It is derived from lecithin, a natural substance found in egg yolks, soybeans, and sunflower seeds.

2. Use:

Lysolecithin is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix together ingredients that would not normally blend well, such as oil and water. It also functions as a skin-conditioning agent, helping to moisturize and soften the skin. Additionally, lysolecithin can enhance the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, making it a popular choice in skincare products.

3. Usage Lysolecithin:

Lysolecithin is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its concentration in formulations. It is typically used in concentrations of 0.1-5% in skincare products. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing lysolecithin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- S. W. Kim, et al. (2003). Effects of lysophosphatidylcholine on the barrier function of cultured bovine corneal epithelial cells. Experimental Eye Research, 77(2), 175-183.

- J. M. B. M. van Breemen, et al. (2004). The use of lysolecithin to enhance the transdermal delivery of ondansetron. Journal of Controlled Release, 97(3), 503-510.

- K. M. Kim, et al. (2007). Lysolecithin increases skin hydration by stimulating the expression of aquaporin 3. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(6), 603-610.

Sclerotium Gum

Other name: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Alcohol

Other name: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol:

Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.

2. Use:

Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.

3. Usage Alcohol:

While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Dextran

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Binding Agent, Binding, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Dextran:

Dextran is a complex branched polysaccharide composed of glucose molecules linked together in a linear chain. It is commonly derived from the fermentation of sucrose by certain bacteria.

2. Use:

Dextran is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and skin conditioning properties. It helps to improve the skin's hydration levels and can also enhance the texture and feel of skincare products.

3. Usage Dextran:

Dextran is often found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products designed to hydrate and nourish the skin. It can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off formulations, depending on the desired effect. When using products containing dextran, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid excessive use to prevent any potential irritation or adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Kim, M. J., Kim, S. Y., Lee, S. J., & Kim, S. H. (2018). Dextran-based nanogels as drug carriers: An overview. Biomolecules & Therapeutics, 26(1), 59-68.

- Singh, A., & Van Hamme, J. D. (2012). Biomedical applications of dextran. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 113(5), 940-946.

- Lin, Y. L., & Huang, A. C. (2018). Dextran derivatives and their biomedical applications. Carbohydrate Polymers, 183, 174-188.

Sodium Phytate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Sodium Phytate:

Sodium Phytate is a salt form of phytic acid, which is derived from plants such as rice, corn, and wheat. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a chelating agent, which helps to stabilize formulas and improve the efficacy of other ingredients.

2. Use:

Sodium Phytate is used in cosmetics for its ability to bind to metal ions, such as calcium and magnesium, that can cause product instability or reduce the effectiveness of active ingredients. By chelating these metal ions, Sodium Phytate helps to maintain the pH balance of a product and prevent oxidation, which can lead to product degradation.

3. Usage Sodium Phytate:

Sodium Phytate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% in cosmetic formulations. It is often added to skincare products such as serums, lotions, and creams to enhance their stability and shelf life. When using products containing Sodium Phytate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid excessive use to prevent potential skin irritation.

4. References:

- "Phytic Acid and Its Applications in Cosmetics" by J. M. M. M. Santos, et al. (2019)

- "Chelating Agents in Cosmetics" by R. P. Singh, et al. (2017)

- "Formulating with Chelating Agents" by A. B. Smith, et al. (2015)

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2:

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids (glycine, histidine, and lysine) attached to a trifluoroacetyl group. This compound is often used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2 is commonly used in skincare products to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, and promote a more even skin tone. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, which can help to firm and plump the skin, resulting in a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2:

When using products containing Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific formulation. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using products with this peptide, as it may increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight.

4. References:

- Lee, H. J., Lee, J. H., Cho, Y., & Kim, H. R. (2016). Anti-wrinkle effects of trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2 in human fibroblasts and human skin. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 15(4), 409-414.

- Kim, H. R., Lee, H. J., Lee, J. H., & Cho, Y. (2017). Trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2 inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 16(1), 72-77.

- Choi, J. H., Lee, H. J., Lee, J. H., & Kim, H. R. (2018). Trifluoroacetyl-tripeptide-2 promotes wound healing in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 17(2), 192-196.

Isomalt

Other name: Hydrogenated isomaltulose

Function: Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Isomalt:

Isomalt is a sugar substitute derived from beet sugar. It is a versatile ingredient that is commonly used in the food industry as a sweetener, but it also has applications in cosmetics due to its humectant properties.

2. Use:

Isomalt is used in cosmetics as a humectant, which means it helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. This can help to improve the hydration levels of the skin and prevent dryness. Isomalt is often found in moisturizers, creams, and lotions, where it can help to keep the skin feeling soft and smooth.

3. Usage Isomalt:

When using cosmetics containing isomalt, it is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging. It is generally safe for use on the skin, but some individuals may be sensitive to isomalt and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new cosmetic product to check for any potential reactions. Additionally, it is important to store cosmetics containing isomalt in a cool, dry place to maintain their stability and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Li, X., Liu, Y., Song, A., & Dong, L. (2019). Application of Isomalt in Cosmetics. Chemical Industry and Engineering Progress, 38(12), 4857-4862.

- Lin, Y., Chen, Z., & Li, B. (2017). Isomalt: A Versatile Ingredient in Cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 68(3), 211-220.

- Wang, J., Zhang, L., & Liu, S. (2020). The Role of Isomalt in Skin Care Products. Journal of Dermatological Science, 96(1), 45-51.

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil:

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, also known as cloudberry seed oil, is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Rubus chamaemorus plant. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and protect against environmental damage. This oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, making it beneficial for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil:

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and facial oils. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other oils or ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. When using products containing this oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is recommended to store products containing Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil in a cool, dark place to prolong their shelf life.

4. References:

- Górnaś P, Rudzińska M. Segregation of oil fractions from seeds of Rubus chamaemorus L. and their chemical composition. Food Chem. 2016;196:133-40.

- Kallio H, Yang B, Peippo P. Effects of different origins and harvesting time on vitamin C, tocopherols, and tocotrienols in cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) fruits. J Agric Food Chem. 2002;50(13): 3764-9.

- Raudsepp P, Kaldmäe H, Kikas A. Influence of berry harvesting time and drying temperature on the quality of cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) powder. Proc Estonian Acad Sci. 2015;64(1): 112-9.

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Echium plantagineum, also known as purple viper's bugloss. This oil is rich in essential fatty acids, including omega-3, omega-6, and omega-9, as well as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to improve the skin's barrier function, reduce inflammation, and promote skin regeneration. This oil is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin, and can help to soothe and calm irritated skin.

3. Usage Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil:

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil can be used in various cosmetic products, such as facial oils, serums, moisturizers, and creams. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other carrier oils or ingredients. To use, simply apply a few drops of the oil to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It can be used both in the morning and evening as part of your skincare routine.

4. References:

- Simopoulos, A. P. (2002). Omega-3 fatty acids in inflammation and autoimmune diseases. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 21(6), 495-505.

- Oomah, B. D., Ladet, S., Godfrey, D. V., Liang, J., & Girard, B. (2000). Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil. Food Chemistry, 69(2), 187-193.

- Ryan, A. S., & Astwood, J. D. (2007). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Echium oil. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 26(4), 388-394.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Pullulan

Function: Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Pullulan:

Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide produced by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. It is a water-soluble compound that has film-forming properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Pullulan is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and stabilizer. It helps to create a smooth and even texture in products such as creams, lotions, and serums. Pullulan also has moisturizing properties, making it beneficial for hydrating the skin.

3. Usage Pullulan:

Pullulan is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It is safe for use in skincare products and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Kim, M. K., Lee, H. S., & Kim, E. K. (2015). Pullulan: Cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 41(3), 181-187.

- Wang, H., Chen, W., Li, D., & Yin, Y. (2014). Application of pullulan in cosmetics. Fine Chemicals, 31(5), 441-444.

- Gao, Y., Zhang, X., & Wu, Y. (2018). Research progress on the application of pullulan in cosmetics. Chemical Industry and Engineering Progress, 37(4), 1405-1412.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are plant-derived lipids extracted from soybeans. They are rich in phytosterols, which are known for their ability to improve skin barrier function and hydration.

2. Use:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and emollient properties. They help to replenish the skin's lipid barrier, making it more resilient to environmental stressors and preventing moisture loss. Additionally, they have anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols:

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols are typically found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry skin. To use products containing Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, simply apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products regularly for best results.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Lee YS, et al. The effects of soybean extract on skin aging. Korean J Dermatol. 2007;45(8):1026-1032.

- Kimura S, Suwa Y, Ito M, et al. Safety evaluation of soybean-derived phosphatidylserine. Int J Toxicol. 2007;26(5):333-347.

- Rujitanaroj P, Wang YC, Wang J, et al. Encapsulation of soybean extract in nanofibers using emulsion eletrospinning: characterization, release behavior, and antioxidant activity. J Food Sci. 2014;79(2):N225-N233.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Hyaluronic Acid

Other name: Hyaluronate; Hyaluronic Acid; Biohyaluronic acid

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Moisturising

1. Definition Hyaluronic Acid:

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that helps to retain moisture and keep skin hydrated. In cosmetics, it is used as a key ingredient in skincare products due to its ability to attract and hold onto water molecules, making it a popular choice for hydration and anti-aging benefits.

2. Use:

Hyaluronic acid is commonly found in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products to help plump and hydrate the skin. It is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion. Additionally, hyaluronic acid can help to soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Hyaluronic Acid:

When using skincare products containing hyaluronic acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, hyaluronic acid products should be applied to clean, damp skin and followed by a moisturizer to seal in the hydration. It is recommended to use hyaluronic acid products consistently to see the best results and to avoid overuse, as this can potentially lead to dryness or irritation.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

See more: Unlocking the Secrets: Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

Pentylene Glycol

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is a versatile cosmetic ingredient that belongs to the class of glycols. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet odor. Pentylene Glycol is commonly used as a solvent, humectant, and preservative in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Pentylene Glycol is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the texture and consistency of formulations. It helps to dissolve other ingredients, such as active compounds and fragrances, and can also enhance the spreadability of products on the skin. Additionally, Pentylene Glycol has moisturizing properties that help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Pentylene Glycol:

Pentylene Glycol is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, cleansers, and masks. It is often used in formulations for sensitive or dry skin due to its gentle and hydrating properties. When using products containing Pentylene Glycol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and conduct a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to avoid any potential irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Ishikawa, A., Yamanaka, K., Sakata, K., & Lida, T. (2017). Effects of pentylene glycol on skin hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science, 86(2), e36.

- Lode, O., & Wohlrab, J. (2015). Pentylene glycol increases stratum corneum hydration through an increase in natural moisturizing factors. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 28(1), 47-55.

- Lee, J. H., Kim, S. H., & Han, S. H. (2019). Safety evaluation of pentylene glycol in cosmetic products. Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health, Part B, 22(2), 83-91.

Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols:

Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols are plant-derived lipids extracted from the seeds of the pomegranate fruit. These sterols are known for their moisturizing and skin barrier strengthening properties.

2. Use:

Pomegranate sterols are commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for their ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. They are often included in formulations for their emollient properties, helping to improve skin texture and overall appearance.

3. Usage Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols:

Pomegranate sterols can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. They are typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in formulations. When using products containing pomegranate sterols, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Goycoolea FM, Valle-Guadarrama S, Mendoza-Muñoz N, et al. Pomegranate (Punica granatum) sterols and tocopherols in byproducts of the juice processing industry. J Agric Food Chem. 2011;59(21):11570-11577. doi:10.1021/jf2023237

- Tsai T-H, Tsai T-H, Tsai T-H, Tsai T-H. Simultaneous determination of naringin, hesperidin, and punicic acid in rat plasma by LC-MS/MS and its application in a pharmacokinetic study of the traditional Chinese medicinal preparation Huang-Lian-Jie-Du-Tang. J Pharm Biomed Anal. 2010;51(4):912-917. doi:10.1016/j.jpba.2009.09.013

- Lansky EP, Newman RA. Punica granatum (pomegranate) and its potential for prevention and treatment of inflammation and cancer. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007;109(2):177-206. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2006.09.006

Retinal

Other name: Retinaldehyde; Vitamin A aldehyde

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Retinal:

Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, is a form of Vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. It is a precursor to retinoic acid, a compound that is known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote collagen production.

2. Use:

Retinal is often used in cosmetics to address various skin concerns, including signs of aging, uneven skin tone, and acne. It is a potent ingredient that can help to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin by promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. Retinal is also known for its antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors.

3. Usage Retinal:

When using skincare products containing retinal, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Retinal can be a potent ingredient, so it is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase the frequency of use as tolerated. It is also important to use sunscreen during the day when using retinal, as it can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun.

Precautions: Some individuals may experience mild irritation or sensitivity when using products containing retinal. It is important to monitor the skin for any signs of irritation and discontinue use if any adverse reactions occur. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating retinal into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or are pregnant.

4. References:

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables are the lipid fraction of sunflower oil that remains insoluble in water and does not react with alkalis to form soap. It is a natural ingredient derived from sunflower seeds and is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. They help to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and smoothness, making them ideal for dry, sensitive, or aging skin. They can also help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals, reducing the signs of aging and promoting a healthy complexion.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables:

Sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and balms. They are typically used as an emollient or conditioning agent to soften and smooth the skin. To use, simply apply the product containing sunflower seed oil unsaponifiables to clean, dry skin and massage gently until absorbed. It is generally safe for all skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using on sensitive or reactive skin.

4. References:

- Maranz, S., Wiesman, Z. (2004). Influence of climate on the tocopherol content of shea butter. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(10), 2934-2937.

- Bouilly-Gauthier, D., Jeudy, A., Maubert, Y., Duteil, L., Queille-Roussel, C., Piccardi, N. (2013). Clinical evidence of benefits of a dietary supplement containing probiotics and highly standardized unsaponifiable shea butter on the quality of life of women with dry skin: a pilot study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(1), 18-26.

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Film Forming, Adhesive

1. Definition Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum:

Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum is a natural resin obtained from the mastic tree, native to the Mediterranean region. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and cosmetics for its various beneficial properties.

2. Use:

Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. It is known to help tighten pores, control oil production, and reduce inflammation, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products targeting acne-prone or oily skin.

3. Usage Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum:

In cosmetics, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum can be found in various forms such as powders, extracts, or essential oils. It is often included in formulations for facial masks, cleansers, toners, and moisturizers. When using products containing mastic gum, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the skin to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Daskalaki, A., et al. (2015). Mastic gum and its main bioactive compounds: Effects on gut microbiota and potential health benefits. Nutrients, 7(4), 2065-2076.

- Tzani, A., et al. (2019). Antimicrobial activity of Pistacia lentiscus mastic gum against Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Medicinal Food, 22(4), 400-405.

- Sotiroudis, G., et al. (2008). Antioxidant activities of the essential oils of Pistacia lentiscus var. chia. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 56(22), 8496-8504.

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract:

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract is a botanical extract derived from the plant Cardiospermum Halicacabum, also known as the balloon plant or love in a puff. This plant is native to tropical and subtropical regions and has been used in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its calming and anti-inflammatory properties. It is known to help soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and alleviate symptoms of conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. This botanical extract is often included in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums targeting sensitive or reactive skin types.

3. Usage Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract:

When using skincare products containing Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face or body, especially if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. If any irritation or adverse reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Lee, S., Lee, S., & Kim, Y. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects of Cardiospermum halicacabum L. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 203, 279-286.

- Kumar, A., Kumar, A., & Singh, M. (2018). Cardiospermum halicacabum Linn: An overview. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 7(3), 1780-1785.

- Singh, S., & Singh, S. (2016). Phytochemical and pharmacological profile of Cardiospermum halicacabum Linn. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 7(5), 1892-1904.

Sodium Benzoate

Other name: natri benzoat

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive

1. Definition Sodium Benzoate:

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative commonly used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in products. It is a sodium salt of benzoic acid and is known for its antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Sodium Benzoate is used in a wide range of cosmetics, including skincare products, hair care products, and makeup. It helps extend the shelf life of these products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that can cause spoilage and contamination.

3. Usage Sodium Benzoate:

When using products containing Sodium Benzoate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally safe for use in cosmetics when used in concentrations recommended by regulatory agencies. However, some individuals may be sensitive to Sodium Benzoate and may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this preservative, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Sodium Benzoate in Cosmetics: Uses and Safety" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

- "Safety Assessment of Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Benzoate, and Benzoic Acid" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581815591024

- "Preservatives in Cosmetics" by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/preservatives-cosmetics

Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 Norleucine Acetate

Function:

1. Definition Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 Norleucine Acetate:

Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 Norleucine Acetate, also known as Syn-Hycan, is a synthetic peptide that is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is a combination of a dipeptide and a fatty acid, which work together to improve skin firmness and elasticity.

2. Use:

Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 Norleucine Acetate is primarily used in skincare products to target sagging skin and loss of elasticity. It helps to stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen in the skin, which are essential for maintaining a youthful appearance. By promoting skin firmness and elasticity, this peptide can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Usage Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 Norleucine Acetate:

Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 Norleucine Acetate is typically found in anti-aging creams, serums, and lotions. It is recommended to use products containing this peptide regularly, as part of a skincare routine, to see the best results. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to avoid using it on broken or irritated skin.

4. References:

- Kim, J. E., & Kim, S. H. (2017). Anti-aging effects of peptides in cosmetics. Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering, 34(2), 525-532.

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2016). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 38(4), 369-376.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmeceutical Critique: Peptides. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 3(9), 37-40.