Full ingredients list Stubborn Cosmetics Face Hug Moisturizer

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
		Clitoria Ternatea (Butterfly Pea) Flower Infusion
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
		Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuaçu) Butter
1	B	Cetearyl Olivate (Hair Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Isoamyl Laurate (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Camellia Japonica Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil (Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sorbitan Olivate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Superoxide Dismutase (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Reducing)
1		Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine (Skin Conditioning)
1		Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1	A	Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent)
1		Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Ceramide Ap (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
		Ceramide 9 (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1	A	Cetyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant)
1	A	Silk Amino Acids (Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning)
1		Gluconolactone (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant)	Anti Aging
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1		Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate (Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing Good for dry skin
1	B	Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Film Forming)
1	A	Beta Glucan (Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
		Acacia Gum
1		Sodium Levulinate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Sodium Anisate (Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent)
1		Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (Chelating Agent)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin
		Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (Masking)
1		Geranium Maculatum Extract (Tonic)
1		Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract (Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin

Clitoria Ternatea (Butterfly Pea) Flower Infusion

Function:

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuaçu) Butter

Function:

Cetearyl Olivate

Other name: Sorbitan Olivate; OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Olivate is primarily used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics to create stable emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.

3. Usage Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/cetearyl-olivate/

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Eco Well. https://www.theecowell.com/single-post/2018/09/12/Cetearyl-Olivate

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by Truth In Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-olivate

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Evening Primrose plant (Oenothera Biennis). It is rich in essential fatty acids, including gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which is known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

2. Use:

Evening Primrose Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its nourishing and hydrating benefits. It is often included in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams to help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, Evening Primrose Oil is also used in hair care products to help strengthen and condition the hair.

3. Usage Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil:

Evening Primrose Oil can be used topically on the skin and hair. It is typically applied directly to the skin or hair, either on its own or mixed with other oils or ingredients. When using Evening Primrose Oil, it is important to do a patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to consult with a healthcare professional before using Evening Primrose Oil, especially for those with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Cheon, M. S., Yoon, T., Lee, D. Y., Choi, G., Moon, B. C., & Chun, J. M. (2014). Evening primrose oil and fish oil in non-alcoholic fatty liver disease: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 37(5), 634-643.

- Hajhashemi, V., & Vaseghi, G. (2018). Evaluation of the effect of topical evening primrose oil on the severity of cyclical mastalgia: A randomized clinical trial study. Complementary Therapies in Medicine, 38, 45-49.

- Senapati, S., & Dey, S. (2019). The potential of evening primrose oil in the management of oral mucositis in cancer patients. Journal of Cancer Research and Therapeutics, 15(6), 1192-1196.

Isoamyl Laurate

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate is a natural ester derived from isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isoamyl Laurate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a lightweight emollient that helps to soften and smooth the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the skin.

3. Usage Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations at concentrations typically ranging from 1-10%. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing Isoamyl Laurate to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate in Cosmetics" - Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/21423/isoamyl-laurate-in-cosmetics

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Other name: Camellia Oil; Tsubaki Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is a botanical oil extracted from the seeds of the Camellia Japonica plant, also known as the Japanese camellia. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, protect against environmental damage, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help to condition and strengthen the hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Camellia Japonica Seed Oil:

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including face creams, serums, hair oils, and body lotions. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized skincare formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, and can be used daily as part of a skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J., et al. (2012). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil against UVB-induced skin aging in hairless mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 144(2), 464-473.

- Hwang, E., et al. (2014). Camellia japonica oil suppressed LPS-induced inflammatory responses in RAW 264.7 macrophages and zebrafish. Journal of Functional Foods, 10, 225-235.

- Park, K., et al. (2017). Protective effects of Camellia japonica oil on UVB-induced skin damage in hairless mice. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(3), 419-426.

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil

Function: Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil:

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil is a vegetable oil extracted from the outer layer of rice grains. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Rice bran oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a healthy scalp. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil:

Rice bran oil can be used in various cosmetic products such as moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and cleansers. It can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or mixed with other ingredients to create customized beauty treatments. When using rice bran oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It should be stored in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.

- Rizwan, M., Rodriguez-Blanco, I., Harbottle, A., Birch-Machin, M. A., & Watson, R. E. B. (2013). Skin photodamage: how the skin can protect itself. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 12(4), 247-253.

Sorbitan Olivate

Other name: OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:

Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.

- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.

- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the Jojoba plant. It is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Jojoba Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to mimic the natural oils produced by the skin, making it suitable for all skin types. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, and hair treatments due to its hydrating and conditioning properties. Jojoba Seed Oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it beneficial for soothing irritated skin and preventing breakouts.

3. Usage Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:

Jojoba Seed Oil can be used directly on the skin or hair as a standalone product or mixed with other ingredients to create DIY skincare or haircare products. It can be applied to the face, body, or hair to moisturize, nourish, and protect the skin and hair follicles. When using Jojoba Seed Oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin and to avoid any potential allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store Jojoba Seed Oil in a cool, dark place to maintain its quality and extend its shelf life.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun, Bryan Barron, The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here: Busting Beauty Myths So You Know What to Use and Why, 2015

- Ratan K. Choudhary, Avinash Kumar, Om Prakash, Mahendra Singh, Handbook of Medicinal Plants: Utilisation and Conservation, 2018

- Jennifer Peace Rhind, Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013

Superoxide Dismutase

Other name: SOD; CuZnSOD

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Reducing

1. Definition Superoxide Dismutase:

Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) is an enzyme that plays a crucial role in the body's antioxidant defense system. It helps to neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can damage cells and contribute to aging and various diseases.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Superoxide Dismutase is used for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and stress. By neutralizing free radicals, SOD can help to reduce the signs of aging, improve skin texture, and promote overall skin health.

3. Usage Superoxide Dismutase:

Superoxide Dismutase is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is often included in anti-aging formulations to help combat the effects of oxidative stress on the skin. To use products containing SOD, simply apply them to clean skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Kohen, R., & Nyska, A. (2002). Oxidation of biological systems: oxidative stress phenomena, antioxidants, redox reactions, and methods for their quantification. Toxicologic pathology, 30(6), 620-650.

- Valko, M., Leibfritz, D., Moncol, J., Cronin, M. T., Mazur, M., & Telser, J. (2007). Free radicals and antioxidants in normal physiological functions and human disease. The international journal of biochemistry & cell biology, 39(1), 44-84.

- Lobo, V., Patil, A., Phatak, A., & Chandra, N. (2010). Free radicals, antioxidants and functional foods: Impact on human health. Pharmacognosy reviews, 4(8), 118.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine is a synthetic peptide composed of amino acids that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is often found in anti-wrinkle creams and serums.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which can help improve skin elasticity and firmness. This peptide can also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine:

When using skincare products containing Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently to see the best results.

Precautions: While Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Kadam, D. M., Suryawanshi, D. K., & Bhosale, A. V. (2017). Anti-aging potential of peptides. Journal of Cosmetology & Trichology, 2(1), 1-6.

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2001). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International journal of cosmetic science, 23(2), 117-125.

- Kim, S. J., & Kim, J. S. (2013). A review of anti-aging properties of peptides in skincare products. International journal of cosmetic science, 35(6), 565-570.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate is a peptide compound commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is a combination of palmitic acid, dipeptide-5, and diaminohydroxybutyrate, which work together to improve skin firmness and elasticity.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate is used in skincare products to target signs of aging such as wrinkles, fine lines, and loss of firmness. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, which helps to improve skin texture and overall appearance. This peptide is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate:

When using products containing Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using anti-aging products to protect the skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Boisnic, S., Branchet-Gumila, M. C., & Nocera, T. (2008). Clinical and biometric evaluation of the anti-aging effect of a cosmetic product containing palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 7(4), 299-305.

- Lintner, K. (2003). Peptides and proteins as active ingredients in cosmeceuticals. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(6), 291-303.

- Tontonoz, M. J., & Kim, Y. K. (2010). Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine and Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate. In Peptides and Skin Health (pp. 211-214). Springer, Dordrecht.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is a modified form of cyclodextrin, a group of compounds derived from starch. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and encapsulating agent due to its ability to improve the solubility and stability of poorly soluble ingredients.

2. Use:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is primarily used in cosmetics to enhance the delivery of active ingredients, improve the stability of formulations, and increase the solubility of hydrophobic compounds. It can also help to mask unpleasant odors and flavors in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

When using Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% in formulations, depending on the specific application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7304052/

- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28212917/

- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144861717302385

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38

Other name: Matrixyl Synthe’6

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked to a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is known for its ability to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin. This helps to improve skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration, leading to a more youthful appearance. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and treatments designed to target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

When using products containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product consistently as part of a skincare routine to see optimal results. However, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2017). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 30(5), e12463.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not. Dermatologic Clinics, 25(3), 357-364.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Ceramide Ap

Other name: Ceramide 6 II; 1,3,4-Octadecanetriol, 2-(2-Hydroxy) Stearamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide Ap:

Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide, which is a lipid molecule naturally found in the skin. Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, making them essential for healthy and hydrated skin.

2. Use:

Ceramide AP is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its skin-replenishing and barrier-strengthening properties. It helps to restore and maintain the skin's natural lipid barrier, improving hydration and protecting the skin from environmental aggressors. Ceramide AP can be found in various formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Ceramide Ap:

When using skincare products containing Ceramide AP, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, Ceramide AP products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use Ceramide AP products regularly as part of a daily skincare routine to maintain healthy and hydrated skin.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Lee, S. N., Kim, K. T., Kim, H. J., Lee, S. J., & Lee, D. R. (2017). Ceramide AP inhibits ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 39(1), 149-156.

- Kim, H. J., Yoo, H. S., Kim, J. C., & Cho, C. S. (2008). Ceramide AP inhibits UVB-induced apoptosis in human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 52(2), 166-169.

- Jeong, S. K., Kim, J. S., Choi, H. R., & Kim, K. M. (2016). Ceramide AP inhibits adipocyte differentiation in 3T3-L1 cells. International journal of molecular medicine, 37(6), 1668-1674.

Ceramide 9

Other name: Ceramide EOP

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 9 is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to replenish and restore the skin's natural barrier. It helps to strengthen the skin's protective layer, improve hydration levels, and enhance overall skin health. Ceramide 9 is particularly beneficial for those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

3. Usage Ceramide 9:

Ceramide 9 can be found in various skincare products, such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone product or as part of a skincare routine. To use ceramide 9 effectively, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the benefits of ceramide 9.

Precautions: While ceramide 9 is generally considered safe for most skin types, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product. This can help to identify any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. Additionally, individuals with specific skin conditions or concerns should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating ceramide 9 into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Choi SJ, Lee SN, Kim K, Kim D, Baek JH, Park YH, Lee JH. Ceramide 9 enhances barrier function in human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Aug;39(4):355-361. doi: 10.1111/ics.12388. Epub 2017 Apr 6. PMID: 28387039.

- Park JH, Lee JH, Park YH, Lee SN. The role of ceramides in skin homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. J Dermatol Sci. 2012 Dec;69(3):225-33. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2012.09.002. Epub 2012 Sep 19. PMID: 23036510.

- Pappas A. Ceramides and skin function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(3):135-9. doi: 10.1159/000357194. Epub 2013 Aug 30. PMID: 24051795.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Cetyl Alcohol

Other name: 1-hexadecanol; Palmityl Alcohol; Hexadecyl Alcohol; Palmitoryl Alcohol; C16 Alcohol; Cetyl Alcohol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Foam Boosting, Surfactant

1. Definition Cetyl Alcohol:

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from natural sources such as coconut or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer.

2. Use:

Cetyl Alcohol is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth and creamy texture to lotions, creams, and other skincare products. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers and body lotions. Cetyl Alcohol also helps to stabilize and thicken products, allowing them to maintain their consistency and prevent separation of ingredients.

3. Usage Cetyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Cetyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to this ingredient. While Cetyl Alcohol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with Cetyl Alcohol, especially if you have sensitive skin. Additionally, it is important to follow the instructions for use provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective application of the product.

4. References:

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Cosmetics Info (https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol)

- "Safety Assessment of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/final_report_alcohols.pdf)

- "Cetyl Alcohol" by Paula's Choice Skincare Ingredient Dictionary (https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/emollients/cetyl-alcohol.html)

Silk Amino Acids

Function: Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Silk Amino Acids:

Silk Amino Acids are a natural water-soluble protein extracted from silk fibers. They are composed of 18 different amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. Silk Amino Acids are known for their ability to improve skin and hair health.

2. Use:

Silk Amino Acids are commonly used in cosmetic products for their moisturizing, conditioning, and strengthening properties. They can help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin and hair, making them look and feel softer and smoother. Silk Amino Acids can also help to repair damaged hair and skin, as well as protect them from environmental damage.

3. Usage Silk Amino Acids:

Silk Amino Acids can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, serums, and masks. They are typically added to formulations in small amounts to provide their beneficial effects. When using products containing Silk Amino Acids, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Some people may be sensitive to Silk Amino Acids, so it is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product.

4. References:

- Choi, S. J., Park, K. H., Kim, D. S., & Kim, Y. H. (2004). Silk fibroin hydrolysate inhibits melanin synthesis through the regulation of tyrosinase activity. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 95(2-3), 313-318.

- Aramwit, P., Sangcakul, A., & Theerachayanan, T. (2012). Silk sericin ameliorates wound healing and its clinical efficacy in burn wounds. Archives of Dermatological Research, 304(8), 625-634.

- Zhang, Y. Q., Tao, J. Y., & Li, S. B. (2006). Preparation of silk protein sericin as mitogenic factor for better mammalian cell culture. Journal of Biotechnology, 125(3), 281-292.

Gluconolactone

Other name: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant

1. Definition Gluconolactone:

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.

2. Use:

Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gluconolactone:

When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is a smaller molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid that has been further broken down through a process called hydrolysis. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an effective hydrating ingredient. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, it is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It can be used both morning and night as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow up with a sunscreen during the day, as hyaluronic acid can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., Lee, J., Kim, J., Kim, H., & Kim, K. (2014). The effect of low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate on the skin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 67, 104-108.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Film Forming

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein is a natural protein derived from oats that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein is often used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums due to its ability to help hydrate and nourish the skin. It is also known for its calming effects on sensitive or irritated skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for those with conditions such as eczema or psoriasis.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein:

When using products containing Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. If you experience any irritation or discomfort, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Gupta, R., & Sharma, A. K. (2014). Evaluation of the moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects of Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 319-326.

- Sur, R., & Nigam, A. (2011). Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract as an active ingredient in skincare products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33(4), 328-333.

- Reuter, J., & Merfort, I. (2010). Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract – A review of its potential role in cosmetics. Cosmetics, 2(2), 137-146.

Beta Glucan

Other name: β-Glucans; 1,3-Glucan,1,6-Glucan; Beta-Glucan; β-Glucan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Beta Glucan:

Beta Glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, algae, lichens, and plants. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote skin healing.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Beta Glucan is used for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin. Beta Glucan is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.

3. Usage Beta Glucan:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Glucan, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine. To maximize the benefits of Beta Glucan, apply the product to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.

4. References:

- Choi, J. K., Kim, S. H. (2018). Inhibitory effects of β-glucan on the production of inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 54, 72-80.

- Kim, H. S., Hong, J. T., Kim, Y., Han, S. B. (2016). Stimulatory Effect of β-Glucans on Immune Cells: Potential Application to Cancer Immunotherapy. Anti-Cancer Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 16(1), 30-37.

- Zykova, T. A., Zhu, F., Zhai, X., Ma, W. Y., Ermakova, S. P., Lee, K. W., Bode, A. M., Dong, Z. (2005). Resveratrol directly targets COX-2 to inhibit carcinogenesis. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 45(10), 842-851.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Acacia Gum

Function:

Sodium Levulinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.

4. References:

- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.

- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.

- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.

Sodium Anisate

Other name: 4-Methoxybenzoic acid sodium salt

Function: Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is a sodium salt derived from anisic acid, which is a naturally occurring organic compound found in anise. It is commonly used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Sodium Anisate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is typically added to cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into various types of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure product safety and efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of sodium anisate against Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Science, 80(8), M1794-M1799.

- Puglia, C., Bonina, F., & Ingrassia, R. (2017). Sodium anisate as cosmetic preservative: Part I. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(1), 43-51.

- Gao, W., & Chen, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of sodium anisate and its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(3), 197-206.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a multifunctional ingredient used in cosmetics as a chelating agent and preservative. It is a salt of glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, and diacetic acid.

2. Use:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is commonly used in cosmetic formulations to enhance the stability and efficacy of other ingredients. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, thereby extending the shelf life of the product. Additionally, it can also improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain formulations.

3. Usage Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic products. It is water-soluble and can be easily incorporated into various formulations such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and creams. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and effectiveness of the product.

4. References:

- "Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tetrasodium-glutamate-diacetate.

- Huang, Y., Zhang, Y., & Chen, X. (2018). "Application of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate in Cosmetics." Chemical Engineering Transactions, 64, 157-162.

- "Safety Assessment of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/tetrasodiumglutamatediacetate.pdf.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a botanical extract derived from the fruit of the cucumber plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its refreshing and calming effects on the skin.

2. Use:

Cucumber fruit extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and provide hydration. It is also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging. Additionally, cucumber extract is known for its cooling and refreshing sensation, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to calm and revitalize the skin.

3. Usage Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:

Cucumber fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients to enhance its benefits. When using products containing cucumber extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Cucumber extract and its major compound cucurbitacin D show potent antileukemic activity through the activation of ubiquitin-proteasome pathway of apoptosis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(3), 772.

- Mukherjee, P. K., Maity, N., Nema, N. K., & Sarkar, B. K. (2013). Phytochemical and therapeutic potential of cucumber. Fitoterapia, 84, 227-236.

- Yoon, J., Kwon, H. H., Min, S., & Thiboutot, D. M. (2018). The effect of a cucumber extract on skin hydration and sebum production in human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(6), 391-397.

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Function: Masking

1. Definition Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is derived from the Spearmint plant, also known as Mentha Spicata. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and refreshing properties.

2. Use:

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is often included in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits. It can help to calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and protect against environmental stressors. Additionally, the cooling sensation it provides can help to invigorate and refresh the skin.

3. Usage Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is typically found in a variety of skincare products such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun, "Spearmint Extract," Paula's Choice, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/plant-extracts/spearmint-extract.html

- Sarah Ban, "The Benefits of Spearmint in Skincare," Byrdie, https://www.byrdie.com/spearmint-in-skincare-5092592

- A. J. Oyedele, O. M. Okoh, "Phytochemical and antioxidant activity of Mentha spicata L. (Spearmint) leaf extract," Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, https://www.phytojournal.com/archives/2018/vol7issue1/PartB/7-1-21-196.pdf

Geranium Maculatum Extract

Function: Tonic

1. Definition Geranium Maculatum Extract:

Geranium Maculatum Extract is derived from the roots of the Geranium Maculatum plant, also known as wild geranium or spotted geranium. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Geranium Maculatum Extract is often included in skincare products for its ability to tighten and tone the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and promote a more even complexion. It is also known to help soothe irritation and redness, making it suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Geranium Maculatum Extract:

Geranium Maculatum Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%, depending on the desired effects. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Choi, E. H., Kang, S. A., Lee, Y. S., & Kim, J. A. (2007). Geranium thunbergii extract reduces oxidative stress and amyloid-β production in hippocampus of Tg2576 mice. Phytomedicine, 14(6), 367-371.

- Park, J. H., Lee, J. Y., Song, M., & Cho, J. G. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Geranium thunbergii extract through suppression of NF-κB and MAPK signaling pathways in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 203, 241-247.

- Kim, J. Y., Kim, S. H., & Ahn, D. K. (2011). Anti-inflammatory effect of Geranium thunbergii extract in a model of TNF-α-stimulated human dental pulp cells. Journal of Endodontics, 37(3), 371-375.

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract

Function: Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is known for its soothing and calming properties and is commonly used in cosmetics for its fragrance and skin-conditioning benefits.

2. Use:

Bitter Orange Flower Extract is often included in skincare products for its natural fragrance, which can help mask the scent of other ingredients. It also has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a more youthful appearance. Additionally, the extract is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract:

Bitter Orange Flower Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as creams, lotions, serums, and perfumes. It is typically used in small concentrations to provide a subtle fragrance and skin-conditioning benefits. When using products containing this extract, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J., Kim, E. H., Oh, I., Jeong, I. H., Kim, S., & Kim, S. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of the Rho kinase inhibitor fasudil on cigarette smoke-induced inflammation in human airway epithelial cells. Inflammation, 40(2), 476-485.

- Chiu, Y. J., & Hu, C. H. (2018). Bitter orange (Citrus aurantium Linné) extracts reduce adiposity by enhancing hepatic beta-oxidation in high-fat diet-induced obese mice. Phytotherapy Research, 32(6), 1166-1177.

- Reuter, J., Wölfle, U., Weckesser, S., & Schempp, C. (2010). Which plant for which skin disease? Part 2: Dermatophytes, chronic venous insufficiency, photoprotection, actinic keratoses, vitiligo, hair loss, cosmetic indications. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 8(11), 866-873.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid