Ingredients list Stubborn Cosmetics Face Smooch Moisturizer ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
		Clitoria Ternatea (Butterfly Pea) Flower Infusion
1	A	Niacinamide (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)	Anti Aging Brightening
1	B	Isoamyl Laurate (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1 2		Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Panthenol (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
2		Propanediol (Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1		Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Sucrose Stearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
1	B	Cetyl Esters (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Superoxide Dismutase (Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Reducing)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1		Gluconolactone (Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant)	Anti Aging
2 9		Zinc Oxide (Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent)	UV Protection Good for oily skin
1	A	Kaolin (Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier)
1		Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract	Acne fighting
1		Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine (Skin Conditioning)
1		Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent)
1		Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 (Skin Conditioning)
1 2		Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Humectant, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Tonic, Astringent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous)
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate (Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing Good for dry skin
1	A	Glyceryl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1		Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (Chelating Agent)
1	A	Allantoin (Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)	Good for sensitive skin Good for oily skin
1	B	Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Film Forming)
1	A	Beta Glucan (Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent)	Good for dry skin
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Sclerotium Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)
1	A	Pullulan (Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming)
1		Sodium Levulinate (Skin Conditioning)
1		Sodium Anisate (Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent)
1 2	A	Silica (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent)
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning, Emollient)	Good for dry skin
		Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (Masking)
1		Geranium Maculatum Extract (Tonic)
1		Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract (Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive)
1 2	A	Citric Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)	Anti Aging Bad for sensitive skin

Clitoria Ternatea (Butterfly Pea) Flower Infusion

Function:

Niacinamide

Other name: Nicotinic acid amide; Nicotinamide

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

1. Definition Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that is commonly used in skincare products for its various benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Niacinamide is used in cosmetics for its ability to improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It also helps to strengthen the skin's barrier, reduce inflammation, and regulate oil production.

3. Usage Niacinamide:

Niacinamide can be found in a variety of skincare products, such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is typically applied topically to the skin and can be used both in the morning and evening as part of a skincare routine. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using a new product containing niacinamide.

Precautions: While niacinamide is generally considered safe for most skin types, some individuals may experience mild irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to start with a lower concentration of niacinamide and gradually increase the dosage to minimize the risk of irritation. It is also recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating niacinamide into your skincare routine, especially if you have any pre-existing skin conditions.

4. References:

- Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 298-307.

- Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7), 860-865.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

See more: Understanding Niacinamide: All about "Skincare Superstar"

Isoamyl Laurate

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate is a natural ester derived from isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Isoamyl Laurate is primarily used in cosmetics and personal care products as a lightweight emollient that helps to soften and smooth the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, lotions, and creams to provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the skin.

3. Usage Isoamyl Laurate:

Isoamyl Laurate can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations at concentrations typically ranging from 1-10%. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using any new product containing Isoamyl Laurate to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate" - The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/isoamyl-laurate

- "Isoamyl Laurate in Cosmetics" - Personal Care Magazine, www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/21423/isoamyl-laurate-in-cosmetics

Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil:

Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of the hemp plant. It is rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve elasticity, and reduce inflammation. It is also known for its ability to regulate oil production, making it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil:

When using Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil in cosmetics, it is important to patch test the product first to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most people, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to hemp should exercise caution. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase the usage if no adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Callaway, J., Schwab, U., Harvima, I., Halonen, P., Mykkänen, O., Hyvönen, P., & Järvinen, T. (2005). Efficacy of dietary hempseed oil in patients with atopic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 16(2), 87-94.

- Del Río-Celestino, M., Ramírez-Boscá, A., Quiles, J. L., & Rivas-García, L. (2020). Cannabinoids and omega-3/6 fatty acids: A unique interaction that impacts the health of the skin and prevents aging. Bioactive Compounds in Health and Disease, 3, 44-57.

- Leizer, C., Ribnicky, D., Poulev, A., Dushenkov, S., & Raskin, I. (2000). The composition of hemp seed oil and its potential as an important source of nutrition. Journal of Nutraceuticals, Functional & Medical Foods, 2(4), 35-53.

Panthenol

Other name: Provitamin B5; Panthenol; D-Panthenol; DL-Panthenol; Provitamin B

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent

1. Definition Panthenol:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in skincare and haircare products for its moisturizing and soothing properties. It is a water-soluble ingredient that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, where it is converted into pantothenic acid, a key component of healthy skin and hair.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating and softening the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin. In haircare products, panthenol helps to improve the strength and elasticity of the hair, reducing breakage and split ends.

3. Usage Panthenol:

Panthenol can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare products and 2-5% in haircare products. Panthenol is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, as with any new skincare or haircare product, it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing panthenol to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw Hill Professional.

- Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2016). Safety assessment of panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 35(2), 42S-61S.

Propanediol

Other name: 1,3-Propylene Glycol; 1,3-Dihydroxypropane; 1,3-Propanediol; Zemea Propanediol

Function: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling

1. Definition Propanediol:

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant, solvent, and emollient. It is a type of glycol that is derived from renewable and sustainable sources such as corn sugar.

2. Use:

Propanediol is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and feel of products. It helps to hydrate the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and lotions. Additionally, propanediol can enhance the absorption of other active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Propanediol:

Propanediol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow recommended guidelines and precautions. It is recommended to patch test products containing propanediol before applying them to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to ensure optimal results and minimize the risk of irritation.

4. References:

- Zhang, X., Qian, H., & Tang, S. (2018). Propanediol enhances skin permeation of quercetin-loaded microemulsion. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 44(6), 1010-1016.

- Rigo, L. A., da Silva, D. F., & Sayer, C. (2019). Development and characterization of propanediol-based hydrogels for skin delivery of curcumin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 132, 73-81.

- Huang, D., Zhang, Y., & Zhang, Z. (2017). Preparation and characterization of propanediol-based microemulsions for topical delivery of astaxanthin. Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 38(9), 1317-1323.

Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate:

Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate is an emulsifier derived from natural sources such as sugar and vegetable oils. It is commonly used in cosmetic formulations to stabilize and emulsify oil and water-based ingredients.

2. Use:

Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate is primarily used in cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums to create a smooth and creamy texture. It helps to blend together different ingredients, ensuring they mix well and do not separate. This ingredient also acts as a moisturizer, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate:

When using products containing Polyglyceryl 3 Methylglucose Distearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate.

- "Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate/.

Sucrose Stearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Sucrose Stearate:

Sucrose stearate is a natural ester derived from the combination of sucrose (sugar) and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Sucrose stearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together to create a stable and smooth product. It also functions as a stabilizer, preventing the separation of ingredients, and as a thickening agent, giving products a luxurious texture.

3. Usage Sucrose Stearate:

Sucrose stearate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in formulations. It is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may be more prone to irritation from sucrose stearate, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Sucrose Stearate" in Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sucrose-stearate

- "Sucrose Stearate" in The Eco Well. https://theecowell.com/ingredients/sucrose-stearate/

- "Sucrose Stearate" in Truth in Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sucrose-stearate

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Cetyl Esters

Other name: Cetyl esters NF

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cetyl Esters:

Cetyl esters are a group of esters derived from cetyl alcohol and fatty acids, commonly used in cosmetics as emollients, emulsifiers, and thickeners. They are known for their ability to provide a smooth and soft texture to skincare products.

2. Use:

Cetyl esters are often included in formulations of creams, lotions, and balms to improve the spreadability and consistency of the product. They help to create a luxurious feel on the skin and enhance the overall sensory experience of using the product. Additionally, cetyl esters can also act as occlusives, forming a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.

3. Usage Cetyl Esters:

When using products containing cetyl esters, it is important to patch test first to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities. It is recommended to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns about using cetyl esters on your skin.

4. References:

- "Cetyl Esters" in CosmeticsInfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-esters

- "Cetyl Esters" in The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/cetyl-esters/

- "Cetyl Esters" in Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetyl-esters

Superoxide Dismutase

Other name: SOD; CuZnSOD

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant, Reducing

1. Definition Superoxide Dismutase:

Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) is an enzyme that plays a crucial role in the body's antioxidant defense system. It helps to neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can damage cells and contribute to aging and various diseases.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Superoxide Dismutase is used for its antioxidant properties. It helps to protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and stress. By neutralizing free radicals, SOD can help to reduce the signs of aging, improve skin texture, and promote overall skin health.

3. Usage Superoxide Dismutase:

Superoxide Dismutase is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is often included in anti-aging formulations to help combat the effects of oxidative stress on the skin. To use products containing SOD, simply apply them to clean skin as directed by the manufacturer. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to discontinue use if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Kohen, R., & Nyska, A. (2002). Oxidation of biological systems: oxidative stress phenomena, antioxidants, redox reactions, and methods for their quantification. Toxicologic pathology, 30(6), 620-650.

- Valko, M., Leibfritz, D., Moncol, J., Cronin, M. T., Mazur, M., & Telser, J. (2007). Free radicals and antioxidants in normal physiological functions and human disease. The international journal of biochemistry & cell biology, 39(1), 44-84.

- Lobo, V., Patil, A., Phatak, A., & Chandra, N. (2010). Free radicals, antioxidants and functional foods: Impact on human health. Pharmacognosy reviews, 4(8), 118.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Gluconolactone

Other name: Glucono delta-lactone; D-glucono-1,5-lactone

Function: Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant

1. Definition Gluconolactone:

Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from natural sources such as fruits and honey. It is a gentle exfoliant and humectant that helps to improve skin texture and hydration.

2. Use:

Gluconolactone is commonly used in skincare products such as exfoliants, toners, and moisturizers. It helps to gently exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and promoting cell turnover. Additionally, it has hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Gluconolactone:

When using skincare products containing Gluconolactone, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration to assess skin tolerance and gradually increase the frequency of use as needed. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using products with Gluconolactone, as it can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation.

4. References:

- Bhatia, A., & Maisuria, V. (2016). Polyhydroxy acids: A new generation of hydroxy acids. International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science, 6(1), 1-5.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 273-278.

- Obagi, Z. E., & Obagi, S. (2003). Chemical peeling and aging skin. Journal of Geriatric Dermatology, 11(2), 67-71.

Zinc Oxide

Other name: microfine Zinc Oxide; CI 77947

Function: Skin Protecting, Cosmetic Colorant, Sunscreen Agent, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Zinc Oxide:

Zinc Oxide is a mineral compound that is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and protective properties. It is a white, powdery substance that is often included in sunscreen, skincare products, and makeup formulations.

2. Use:

Zinc Oxide is primarily used in cosmetics for its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. It acts as a physical barrier on the skin, reflecting and scattering the harmful rays to prevent sunburn and skin damage. In addition to its sun protection benefits, Zinc Oxide also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm irritated skin and reduce redness.

3. Usage Zinc Oxide:

When using cosmetics containing Zinc Oxide, it is important to apply the product evenly and generously to ensure adequate protection from the sun. Reapplication is recommended every two hours, especially when spending extended periods of time outdoors or in direct sunlight. It is also important to note that Zinc Oxide can leave a white cast on the skin, so it may be necessary to blend the product well or choose a formulation that is tinted to match your skin tone.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products (Cosmetic Science and Technology Series). CRC Press.

- Wang, S. Q., & Lim, H. W. (2007). Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 66(3), 489-496.

- Nasir, A., Kalam, A., Singh, P., & Sharma, K. (2019). Zinc oxide nanoparticles: a review of their biological synthesis, antimicrobial activity, uptake, translocation and biotransformation in plants. Journal of Materials Science, 54(2), 1016-1042.

Kaolin

Other name: Kaolinite; China clay; Aluminum Silica; White Clay; Kaolin Clay

Function: Skin Protecting, Opacifying, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent, Slip Modifier

1. Definition Kaolin:

Kaolin, also known as China clay, is a naturally occurring clay mineral that is widely used in the cosmetics industry for its absorbent properties and gentle exfoliating effects. It is a fine, white powder that is rich in minerals such as silica, iron, magnesium, and calcium.

2. Use:

Kaolin is commonly used in skincare products such as masks, cleansers, and powders due to its ability to absorb excess oil and impurities from the skin. It is also known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types. Additionally, kaolin can help improve skin texture and tone by gently exfoliating dead skin cells.

3. Usage Kaolin:

Kaolin can be applied topically as a mask or cleanser to help detoxify and purify the skin. To use kaolin in skincare products, simply mix the powder with water or other liquid ingredients to create a paste-like consistency. Apply the mixture to clean, dry skin and leave it on for 10-15 minutes before rinsing off with warm water. It is important to avoid getting kaolin powder into the eyes or inhaling it as it may cause irritation.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2012). Formulating with kaolin. Personal Care Magazine, 9(3), 25-28.

- Williams, L. B., & Haydel, S. E. (2010). Evaluation of the medicinal use of clay minerals as antibacterial agents. International Geology Review, 52(7/8), 745-770.

- Lin, Y. C., & Lin, J. H. (2008). Kaolin and its industrial uses. Journal of the Chinese Ceramic Society, 36(6), 805-811.

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract

Function:

1. Definition Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the bark of the black willow tree. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, astringent, and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to help reduce inflammation, control oil production, and improve overall skin tone and texture. It is often found in products targeted towards acne-prone or sensitive skin due to its calming and purifying effects.

3. Usage Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract:

When using products containing Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also advised to use sunscreen when using products with this ingredient, as it may increase sensitivity to the sun.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2013). Medicinal Plants: Phytochemistry, Pharmacology and Therapeutics. CRC Press.

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Ghassemi, M. R., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). Rhamnus cathartica L. (Buckthorn) Bark Extract: Cosmetic and Dermatologic Applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 6(2), 39–44.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine is a synthetic peptide composed of amino acids that is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties. It is often found in anti-wrinkle creams and serums.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which can help improve skin elasticity and firmness. This peptide can also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine:

When using skincare products containing Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean, dry skin and massaged gently until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use these products consistently to see the best results.

Precautions: While Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure compatibility with your skin. If any irritation occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Kadam, D. M., Suryawanshi, D. K., & Bhosale, A. V. (2017). Anti-aging potential of peptides. Journal of Cosmetology & Trichology, 2(1), 1-6.

- Lintner, K., & Peschard, O. (2001). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International journal of cosmetic science, 23(2), 117-125.

- Kim, S. J., & Kim, J. S. (2013). A review of anti-aging properties of peptides in skincare products. International journal of cosmetic science, 35(6), 565-570.

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate is a peptide compound commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging properties. It is a combination of palmitic acid, dipeptide-5, and diaminohydroxybutyrate, which work together to improve skin firmness and elasticity.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate is used in skincare products to target signs of aging such as wrinkles, fine lines, and loss of firmness. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, which helps to improve skin texture and overall appearance. This peptide is often found in anti-aging serums, creams, and lotions.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate:

When using products containing Palmitoyl Dipeptide 5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these products are applied to clean skin, either in the morning or evening, depending on the specific product. It is recommended to use sunscreen during the day when using anti-aging products to protect the skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Boisnic, S., Branchet-Gumila, M. C., & Nocera, T. (2008). Clinical and biometric evaluation of the anti-aging effect of a cosmetic product containing palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 7(4), 299-305.

- Lintner, K. (2003). Peptides and proteins as active ingredients in cosmeceuticals. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 25(6), 291-303.

- Tontonoz, M. J., & Kim, Y. K. (2010). Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine and Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate. In Peptides and Skin Health (pp. 211-214). Springer, Dordrecht.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emulsion Stabilising, Chelating Agent

1. Definition Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is a modified form of cyclodextrin, a group of compounds derived from starch. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a solubilizer, stabilizer, and encapsulating agent due to its ability to improve the solubility and stability of poorly soluble ingredients.

2. Use:

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin is primarily used in cosmetics to enhance the delivery of active ingredients, improve the stability of formulations, and increase the solubility of hydrophobic compounds. It can also help to mask unpleasant odors and flavors in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin:

When using Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% in formulations, depending on the specific application. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to perform a patch test before widespread use to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7304052/

- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28212917/

- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144861717302385

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38

Other name: Matrixyl Synthe’6

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is a synthetic peptide consisting of three amino acids linked to a palmitic acid molecule. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging properties.

2. Use:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38 is known for its ability to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin. This helps to improve skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration, leading to a more youthful appearance. It is often found in anti-aging creams, serums, and treatments designed to target fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.

3. Usage Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38:

When using products containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide 38, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, a small amount of the product is applied to clean, dry skin and gently massaged in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use the product consistently as part of a skincare routine to see optimal results. However, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using any new skincare product to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2017). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 30(5), e12463.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmeceuticals: what's real, what's not. Dermatologic Clinics, 25(3), 357-364.

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Emollient, Fragrance, Humectant, Antimicrobial, Skin Protecting, Uv Absorber, Antioxidant, Tonic, Astringent, Skin-Conditioning Agent -Miscellaneous

1. Definition Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract:

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant, commonly known as green tea. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that provide numerous benefits for the skin.

2. Use:

Green tea extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, making it a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare products. Additionally, green tea extract can help soothe and calm irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract:

Green tea extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in formulations. To use products containing green tea extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to patch test products containing green tea extract before full application to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Yoon, H. S., Hyun, C. G., & Shin, S. (2009). Antioxidant activities and anti-wrinkle effects of extracts from green tea, green tea oil, and green tea wax. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 86(6), 601-608.

- Katiyar, S. K., Ahmad, N., & Mukhtar, H. (2000). Green tea and skin. Archives of Dermatology, 136(8), 989-994.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is a smaller molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid that has been further broken down through a process called hydrolysis. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump the skin.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an effective hydrating ingredient. It helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, it is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It can be used both morning and night as part of a skincare routine. It is important to follow up with a sunscreen during the day, as hyaluronic acid can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Kim, J., Lee, J., Kim, J., Kim, H., & Kim, K. (2014). The effect of low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate on the skin. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 67, 104-108.

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is a multifunctional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and preservative. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil, and glycerin.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Caprylate is used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, which help to soften and moisturize the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulations. Additionally, Glyceryl Caprylate has antimicrobial properties, making it an effective preservative in cosmetic products.

3. Usage Glyceryl Caprylate:

Glyceryl Caprylate is commonly found in skincare products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It is used in concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%. When using products containing Glyceryl Caprylate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and patch test the product on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glyceryl-caprylate.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/glyceryl-caprylate/.

- "Glyceryl Caprylate." Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/glyceryl-caprylate.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a multifunctional ingredient used in cosmetics as a chelating agent and preservative. It is a salt of glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, and diacetic acid.

2. Use:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is commonly used in cosmetic formulations to enhance the stability and efficacy of other ingredients. It helps to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria, thereby extending the shelf life of the product. Additionally, it can also improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain formulations.

3. Usage Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic products. It is water-soluble and can be easily incorporated into various formulations such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and creams. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels to ensure the safety and effectiveness of the product.

4. References:

- "Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/tetrasodium-glutamate-diacetate.

- Huang, Y., Zhang, Y., & Chen, X. (2018). "Application of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate in Cosmetics." Chemical Engineering Transactions, 64, 157-162.

- "Safety Assessment of Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/tetrasodiumglutamatediacetate.pdf.

Allantoin

Other name: Glyoxyldiureide; Allantion

Function: Skin Protecting, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

1. Definition Allantoin:

Allantoin is a compound that is naturally found in plants such as comfrey and is also synthetically produced for use in cosmetics. It is known for its soothing, healing, and moisturizing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Allantoin is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to promote skin regeneration and repair. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, making it an effective ingredient in products designed to treat dry, rough, or damaged skin. Allantoin is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a great option for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Allantoin:

Allantoin is typically found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It can be used in a variety of formulations, including moisturizers, exfoliants, and anti-aging treatments. When using products containing allantoin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to larger areas of the skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmeceuticals. Elsevier Health Sciences.

- Mukherjee, P. K., & Maity, N. (2011). Acute oral toxicity study of Allantoin in Swiss albino mice. International Journal of Research in Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Sciences, 2(3), 1247-1251.

- Vaughn, A. R., Clark, A. K., Sivamani, R. K., & Shi, V. Y. (2019). Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 20(3), 285-295.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Film Forming

1. Definition Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein is a natural protein derived from oats that is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein is often used in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums due to its ability to help hydrate and nourish the skin. It is also known for its calming effects on sensitive or irritated skin, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for those with conditions such as eczema or psoriasis.

3. Usage Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein:

When using products containing Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have any adverse reactions. If you experience any irritation or discomfort, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist.

4. References:

- Gupta, R., & Sharma, A. K. (2014). Evaluation of the moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects of Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 319-326.

- Sur, R., & Nigam, A. (2011). Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract as an active ingredient in skincare products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33(4), 328-333.

- Reuter, J., & Merfort, I. (2010). Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract – A review of its potential role in cosmetics. Cosmetics, 2(2), 137-146.

Beta Glucan

Other name: β-Glucans; 1,3-Glucan,1,6-Glucan; Beta-Glucan; β-Glucan

Function: Skin Conditioning, Bulking Agent

1. Definition Beta Glucan:

Beta Glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeasts, algae, lichens, and plants. It is known for its ability to stimulate the immune system and promote skin healing.

2. Use:

In cosmetics, Beta Glucan is used for its anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. It helps to improve the skin's elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin. Beta Glucan is often found in skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.

3. Usage Beta Glucan:

When using cosmetics containing Beta Glucan, it is important to patch test the product first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, but it is always best to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient into your skincare routine. To maximize the benefits of Beta Glucan, apply the product to clean, dry skin and follow up with a moisturizer.

4. References:

- Choi, J. K., Kim, S. H. (2018). Inhibitory effects of β-glucan on the production of inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 54, 72-80.

- Kim, H. S., Hong, J. T., Kim, Y., Han, S. B. (2016). Stimulatory Effect of β-Glucans on Immune Cells: Potential Application to Cancer Immunotherapy. Anti-Cancer Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 16(1), 30-37.

- Zykova, T. A., Zhu, F., Zhai, X., Ma, W. Y., Ermakova, S. P., Lee, K. W., Bode, A. M., Dong, Z. (2005). Resveratrol directly targets COX-2 to inhibit carcinogenesis. Molecular Carcinogenesis, 45(10), 842-851.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Sclerotium Gum

Other name: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

Pullulan

Function: Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming

1. Definition Pullulan:

Pullulan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide produced by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. It is a water-soluble compound that has film-forming properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics.

2. Use:

Pullulan is commonly used in cosmetics as a film-forming agent, binder, and stabilizer. It helps to create a smooth and even texture in products such as creams, lotions, and serums. Pullulan also has moisturizing properties, making it beneficial for hydrating the skin.

3. Usage Pullulan:

Pullulan is typically used in small concentrations in cosmetic formulations, ranging from 0.1% to 5%. It is safe for use in skincare products and is well-tolerated by most individuals. However, it is important to follow the recommended usage guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

4. References:

- Kim, M. K., Lee, H. S., & Kim, E. K. (2015). Pullulan: Cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 41(3), 181-187.

- Wang, H., Chen, W., Li, D., & Yin, Y. (2014). Application of pullulan in cosmetics. Fine Chemicals, 31(5), 441-444.

- Gao, Y., Zhang, X., & Wu, Y. (2018). Research progress on the application of pullulan in cosmetics. Chemical Industry and Engineering Progress, 37(4), 1405-1412.

Sodium Levulinate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is a sodium salt derived from levulinic acid, which is a natural compound found in various fruits and vegetables. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a preservative and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Sodium Levulinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, it has moisturizing properties that can help to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Sodium Levulinate:

Sodium Levulinate is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations. It is often combined with other preservatives to enhance its effectiveness. When using products containing Sodium Levulinate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and discontinue use if any irritation or sensitivity occurs.

4. References:

- P. R. Rajamohanan, S. N. Prasad, and K. M. Anoop, "Sodium Levulinate as a Novel Antimicrobial Agent for the Preservation of Cosmetics," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 65, no. 3, pp. 153-162, 2014.

- S. E. B. Gomes, M. A. S. de Oliveira, and M. F. de Lima, "Evaluation of the Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Formulations," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 38, no. 4, pp. 398-405, 2016.

- J. M. L. Santos, A. C. M. Silva, and L. R. P. Santos, "Safety Assessment of Sodium Levulinate in Cosmetic Products: A Review," Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 89, pp. 20-27, 2017.

Sodium Anisate

Other name: 4-Methoxybenzoic acid sodium salt

Function: Antimicrobial, Flavoring Agent

1. Definition Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is a sodium salt derived from anisic acid, which is a naturally occurring organic compound found in anise. It is commonly used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent in cosmetic formulations.

2. Use:

Sodium Anisate is primarily used in cosmetics as a natural alternative to synthetic preservatives. It helps to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold. Additionally, it has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Sodium Anisate:

Sodium Anisate is typically added to cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2%. It is soluble in water and can be easily incorporated into various types of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure product safety and efficacy.

4. References:

- Kim, S. Y., & Kim, J. K. (2015). Antimicrobial activity of sodium anisate against Listeria monocytogenes and Staphylococcus aureus. Journal of Food Science, 80(8), M1794-M1799.

- Puglia, C., Bonina, F., & Ingrassia, R. (2017). Sodium anisate as cosmetic preservative: Part I. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39(1), 43-51.

- Gao, W., & Chen, Y. (2019). Antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of sodium anisate and its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(3), 197-206.

Silica

Other name: Silicon dioxide; Silicic anhydride; Siliceous earth

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Silica:

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.

2. Use:

Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.

3. Usage Silica:

When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.

4. References:

- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.

- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.

- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract is a botanical extract derived from the fruit of the cucumber plant. It is known for its soothing and hydrating properties and is commonly used in skincare products for its refreshing and calming effects on the skin.

2. Use:

Cucumber fruit extract is often included in cosmetic formulations for its ability to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and provide hydration. It is also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging. Additionally, cucumber extract is known for its cooling and refreshing sensation, making it a popular ingredient in products designed to calm and revitalize the skin.

3. Usage Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract:

Cucumber fruit extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and eye creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other ingredients to enhance its benefits. When using products containing cucumber extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and perform a patch test to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S., Lee, S., & Lee, S. (2018). Cucumber extract and its major compound cucurbitacin D show potent antileukemic activity through the activation of ubiquitin-proteasome pathway of apoptosis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(3), 772.

- Mukherjee, P. K., Maity, N., Nema, N. K., & Sarkar, B. K. (2013). Phytochemical and therapeutic potential of cucumber. Fitoterapia, 84, 227-236.

- Yoon, J., Kwon, H. H., Min, S., & Thiboutot, D. M. (2018). The effect of a cucumber extract on skin hydration and sebum production in human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 69(6), 391-397.

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Function: Masking

1. Definition Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is derived from the Spearmint plant, also known as Mentha Spicata. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its soothing and refreshing properties.

2. Use:

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is often included in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits. It can help to calm irritated skin, reduce redness, and protect against environmental stressors. Additionally, the cooling sensation it provides can help to invigorate and refresh the skin.

3. Usage Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract:

Mentha Spicata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is typically found in a variety of skincare products such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and masks. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to ensure compatibility. It is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided on the product packaging to avoid any potential irritation.

4. References:

- Paula Begoun, "Spearmint Extract," Paula's Choice, https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/plant-extracts/spearmint-extract.html

- Sarah Ban, "The Benefits of Spearmint in Skincare," Byrdie, https://www.byrdie.com/spearmint-in-skincare-5092592

- A. J. Oyedele, O. M. Okoh, "Phytochemical and antioxidant activity of Mentha spicata L. (Spearmint) leaf extract," Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, https://www.phytojournal.com/archives/2018/vol7issue1/PartB/7-1-21-196.pdf

Geranium Maculatum Extract

Function: Tonic

1. Definition Geranium Maculatum Extract:

Geranium Maculatum Extract is derived from the roots of the Geranium Maculatum plant, also known as wild geranium or spotted geranium. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Geranium Maculatum Extract is often included in skincare products for its ability to tighten and tone the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and promote a more even complexion. It is also known to help soothe irritation and redness, making it suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Geranium Maculatum Extract:

Geranium Maculatum Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 5%, depending on the desired effects. To use products containing this extract, simply apply a small amount to clean skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Choi, E. H., Kang, S. A., Lee, Y. S., & Kim, J. A. (2007). Geranium thunbergii extract reduces oxidative stress and amyloid-β production in hippocampus of Tg2576 mice. Phytomedicine, 14(6), 367-371.

- Park, J. H., Lee, J. Y., Song, M., & Cho, J. G. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Geranium thunbergii extract through suppression of NF-κB and MAPK signaling pathways in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 203, 241-247.

- Kim, J. Y., Kim, S. H., & Ahn, D. K. (2011). Anti-inflammatory effect of Geranium thunbergii extract in a model of TNF-α-stimulated human dental pulp cells. Journal of Endodontics, 37(3), 371-375.

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract

Function: Skin-Conditioning Agent - Occlusive

1. Definition Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract:

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract is derived from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is known for its soothing and calming properties and is commonly used in cosmetics for its fragrance and skin-conditioning benefits.

2. Use:

Bitter Orange Flower Extract is often included in skincare products for its natural fragrance, which can help mask the scent of other ingredients. It also has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a more youthful appearance. Additionally, the extract is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for soothing sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract:

Bitter Orange Flower Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as creams, lotions, serums, and perfumes. It is typically used in small concentrations to provide a subtle fragrance and skin-conditioning benefits. When using products containing this extract, it is important to perform a patch test first to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J., Kim, E. H., Oh, I., Jeong, I. H., Kim, S., & Kim, S. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of the Rho kinase inhibitor fasudil on cigarette smoke-induced inflammation in human airway epithelial cells. Inflammation, 40(2), 476-485.

- Chiu, Y. J., & Hu, C. H. (2018). Bitter orange (Citrus aurantium Linné) extracts reduce adiposity by enhancing hepatic beta-oxidation in high-fat diet-induced obese mice. Phytotherapy Research, 32(6), 1166-1177.

- Reuter, J., Wölfle, U., Weckesser, S., & Schempp, C. (2010). Which plant for which skin disease? Part 2: Dermatophytes, chronic venous insufficiency, photoprotection, actinic keratoses, vitiligo, hair loss, cosmetic indications. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 8(11), 866-873.

Citric Acid

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Citric Acid:

Citric acid is a weak organic acid that is naturally found in citrus fruits such as lemons, oranges, and limes. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, preservative, and exfoliant.

2. Use:

Citric acid is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH of formulations, which helps to maintain the stability and effectiveness of the product. It is also used as a preservative to extend the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, citric acid is used as an exfoliant in skincare products to help slough off dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Usage Citric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing citric acid, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Citric acid can be irritating to the skin, especially in high concentrations, so it is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to avoid using products containing citric acid on broken or irritated skin, as this can further aggravate the condition.

4. References:

- "Citric Acid in Cosmetics: Is It Safe?" by Healthline

- "The Role of Citric Acid in Cosmetics" by The Derm Review

- "Citric Acid: Benefits, Uses, and Side Effects" by Verywell Health

See more: Citric Acid