Full ingredients list The Saem Cell Renew Bio Micro Peel ...

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Sorbitol (Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer)
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Myristic Acid (Perfuming, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Sufactant)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
2 5	B	Potassium Hydroxide (pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent)
1	A	Stearic Acid (Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Lauric Acid (Fragrance, Emulsifying)	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Peg 8 (Solvent, Humectant)
1	A	Glycol Distearate (Opacifying, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Mannan (Film Forming)
1	A	Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1 3	A	Peg 100 Stearate (Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
2	A	Tetrasodium Edta (Chelating Agent)
1 2		Protease (Skin Conditioning, Lytic Agent)
		Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 (Skin Conditioning)
1		Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Hydroxyethylcellulose (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming)
3	A	Bht (Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant)
1		Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract	Acne fighting
		Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate (Skin Conditioning)
8		Fragrance (Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant)	Good for dry skin

Sorbitol

Other name: D-Glucitol

Function: Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Flavoring Agent, Plasticizer

1. Definition Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol that is commonly used in cosmetics as a humectant and thickening agent. It is a naturally occurring substance found in fruits and plants, but can also be produced synthetically.

2. Use:

Sorbitol is used in cosmetics to help attract moisture to the skin, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, lotions, and creams. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and supple. Sorbitol also has emollient properties, which help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitol:

Sorbitol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for its use. It is typically used in concentrations of up to 10% in skincare products. However, some individuals may be sensitive to sorbitol and may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a product containing sorbitol, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5780, Sorbitol. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Sorbitol

- Cosmetics Info. Sorbitol. https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sorbitol

- Personal Care Council. Sorbitol. https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/sorbitol

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Myristic Acid

Other name: C14; Tetradecanoic Fatty Acid

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Sufactant

1. Definition Myristic Acid:

Myristic acid is a saturated fatty acid commonly found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and nutmeg. It is a white, waxy solid with a faint odor and is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and cleansing properties.

2. Use:

Myristic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and hydrate the skin. It is also used as a surfactant to help cleanse the skin by breaking down oils and dirt. Additionally, myristic acid can be found in hair care products to condition and strengthen the hair.

3. Usage Myristic Acid:

Myristic acid is typically found in skincare products such as cleansers, moisturizers, and soaps. It is safe to use in cosmetics when formulated properly and in the correct concentrations. However, it is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions to myristic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- Lautenschläger, H. (2010). Myristic Acid. Retrieved from https://www.skincarisma.com/ingredients/myristic-acid

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., & Bagherani, N. (2014). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(7), 784-790.

- Mukherjee, S., & Date, A. (2011). Patented sunscreen compositions based on natural materials. Recent Patents on Drug Delivery & Formulation, 5(1), 1-10.

Potassium Hydroxide

Other name: KOH; Potassium Hydrate; Potash lye

Function: pH adjusting agent, pH adjusting agent

1. Definition Potassium Hydroxide:

Potassium Hydroxide, also known as caustic potash, is a strong alkaline compound that is commonly used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.

2. Use:

Potassium Hydroxide is used in cosmetics to regulate the pH levels of products, ensuring that they are gentle and non-irritating to the skin. It is also utilized as an emulsifying agent, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients together to create stable and uniform formulations.

3. Usage Potassium Hydroxide:

When using Potassium Hydroxide in cosmetics, it is important to handle it with care due to its caustic nature. Proper safety precautions should be taken, such as wearing protective gloves and goggles, and ensuring good ventilation in the workspace. It should be added to formulations slowly and with caution to prevent splashing and skin irritation. Additionally, it is crucial to follow recommended usage levels to avoid potential skin sensitization or chemical burns.

4. References:

- "Potassium Hydroxide." Cosmetics Info, cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-hydroxide.

- "Potassium Hydroxide in Cosmetics." Truth In Aging, truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-hydroxide.

- "Safety Assessment of Potassium Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics." Cosmetic Ingredient Review, cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/potassium.pdf.

Stearic Acid

Other name: Octadecanoic Acid; C18; Hexyldecyl Stearate

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Sufactant, Refatting

1. Definition Stearic Acid:

Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly found in animal and vegetable fats. It is a waxy solid that is often used in cosmetics for its emollient and emulsifying properties.

2. Use:

Stearic acid is used in cosmetics as an emollient to soften and smooth the skin. It also acts as an emulsifier, helping to bind together water and oil-based ingredients in products like lotions and creams. Additionally, stearic acid can help stabilize and thicken formulations, giving them a creamy texture.

3. Usage Stearic Acid:

When using cosmetics containing stearic acid, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or breakouts when using products with stearic acid, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and to consult a dermatologist if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Pumori Saokar Telang, Ashish Gupta, and Nidhi Choudhary. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid based emulsion for topical drug delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research.

- M. C. Gohel, S. P. Amin, and M. J. B. Shah. (2008). Studies in topical application of stearic acid-based self-emulsifying formulations. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy.

- A. J. Ogunjimi, J. A. Akin-Ajani, and O. A. Odeku. (2016). Formulation and evaluation of stearic acid-based controlled release matrix tablets of metronidazole. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research.

Lauric Acid

Other name: Dodecanoic Acid; Lauric Acid

Function: Fragrance, Emulsifying

1. Definition Lauric Acid:

Lauric acid is a saturated fatty acid that is commonly derived from coconut oil. It is a medium-chain fatty acid with antimicrobial properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Lauric acid is used in cosmetics for its emollient and moisturizing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, making it a common ingredient in lotions, creams, and serums. Lauric acid also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective in fighting acne-causing bacteria and other skin infections.

3. Usage Lauric Acid:

When using cosmetics containing lauric acid, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. It is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a product containing lauric acid to ensure compatibility with your skin.

4. References:

- Kim, S., & Lee, J. (2016). Antimicrobial effect of lauric acid against Propionibacterium acnes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 136(5), S59.

- Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 54(2), 175-192.

- Evangelista, M. T., Abad-Casintahan, F., & Lopez-Villafuerte, L. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100-108.

Peg 8

Function: Solvent, Humectant

1. Definition Peg 8:

Peg 8, also known as polyethylene glycol 8, is a synthetic polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, surfactant, and moisturizer. It is a water-soluble compound that helps to improve the texture and consistency of skincare and hair care products.

2. Use:

Peg 8 is used in cosmetics to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating stable emulsions. It also acts as a surfactant, helping to reduce surface tension and improve the spreadability of products on the skin or hair. Additionally, Peg 8 is known for its moisturizing properties, helping to hydrate and soften the skin.

3. Usage Peg 8:

Peg 8 is commonly found in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, and conditioners. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is important to patch test products containing Peg 8 before applying them to larger areas of the skin.

4. References:

- S. H. Yoon, H. J. Lee, S. J. Yoon, S. M. Choi, "Safety Evaluation of Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds for Cosmetic Use," International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 29, no. 1, 2010.

- A. L. Silva, J. F. L. Gomes, M. A. S. Barreto, "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) in Cosmetic Formulations: Chemical and Biological Aspects," Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 69, no. 1, 2018.

- M. S. Roberts, K. Y. Cross, "Polyethylene Glycol and Derivatives in Cosmetics and Skin Care: Safety Considerations," International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 31, no. 1, 2012.

Glycol Distearate

Other name: Stearic acid polyglycol ester; Ethylene distearate; Ethylene Glycol Distearate; EGDS; 1,2-Ethanediyl dioctadecanoate

Function: Opacifying, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glycol Distearate:

Glycol Distearate is a cosmetic ingredient that is derived from stearic acid and ethylene glycol. It is commonly used as an emollient and thickening agent in various skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Glycol Distearate is primarily used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient to help soften and smooth the skin and hair. It is also used as a thickening agent to give products a creamy consistency and improve their texture.

3. Usage Glycol Distearate:

Glycol Distearate is typically found in products such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and lotions. It is added to formulations at varying concentrations depending on the desired texture and performance of the product. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.

Precautions: While Glycol Distearate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Glycol Distearate to check for any adverse reactions. If any irritation or allergic reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Glycol Distearate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/glycol-distearate.

- S. V. Patil, et al. "Glycol Distearate." National Center for Biotechnology Information, PubChem Compound Database, pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Glycol-distearate.

- "Glycol Distearate in Cosmetics." Personal Care Council, www.personalcarecouncil.org/cosmetic-ingredient/glycol-distearate/.

Mannan

Other name: Mannoglycan

Function: Film Forming

1. Definition Mannan:

Mannan is a polysaccharide derived from the cell walls of plants, particularly from the endosperm of certain seeds. It is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and soothing properties.

2. Use:

Mannan is often used in cosmetics as a humectant, which helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It can also act as a thickening agent, giving products a smooth and creamy texture. Additionally, Mannan has been found to have anti-inflammatory and soothing effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Mannan:

Mannan can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, serums, masks, and cleansers. It is typically added to formulations in small concentrations to provide its moisturizing and soothing benefits. When using products containing Mannan, it is important to follow the instructions on the packaging and perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim, J., Kim, E. H., Oh, I., & Jung, K. (2015). Mannan oligosaccharide improves skin conditions through its anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and moisture retention properties. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 14(2), 115-123.

- Lee, S. H., Kim, J. Y., Kim, Y. H., Jeong, S. H., & Kim, W. S. (2017). Effects of Mannan on the hydration and barrier function of the skin. Journal of Dermatological Science, 85(2), 94-101.

- Park, H. J., Lee, S. H., & Kim, H. J. (2019). The role of Mannan in improving the efficacy of skincare products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(1), 52-59.

Glyceryl Stearate

Function: Emollient, Emulsifying

1. Definition Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl Stearate is a fatty acid derived from glycerin and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Glyceryl Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and makeup. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, improve the texture of the product, and stabilize the formulation.

3. Usage Glyceryl Stearate:

When using products containing Glyceryl Stearate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product with Glyceryl Stearate, especially if you have sensitive skin.

4. References:

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by The Personal Care Products Council

- "Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

- "Glyceryl Stearate" by Paula's Choice Skincare

Peg 100 Stearate

Function: Surfactant

1. Definition Peg 100 Stearate:

Peg 100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid, commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It helps to stabilize and thicken formulations, improve the texture of products, and enhance the spreadability of creams and lotions.

2. Use:

Peg 100 Stearate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, sunscreens, and makeup. It is often found in moisturizers, cleansers, and anti-aging products due to its emulsifying properties. Peg 100 Stearate helps to blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating a smooth and uniform texture in the final product.

3. Usage Peg 100 Stearate:

When using products containing Peg 100 Stearate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to this ingredient. If you experience any irritation or adverse reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential sensitivities.

4. References:

- "PEG-100 Stearate" Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2014.

- "Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Compounds in Cosmetics" U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 2019.

- "Safety Assessment of PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-150 Stearate as Used in Cosmetics" International Journal of Toxicology, 2017.

Tetrasodium Edta

Other name: EDTA-4Na; Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Tetrasodium Edta:

Tetrasodium EDTA, also known as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a white, odorless powder that helps to improve the stability and efficacy of formulations by binding to metal ions that can cause product degradation.

2. Use:

Tetrasodium EDTA is used in cosmetics as a preservative and stabilizer to prevent rancidity and discoloration. It also helps to enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives in the formulation. Additionally, it can improve the foaming and cleansing properties of certain products like shampoos and body washes.

3. Usage Tetrasodium Edta:

Tetrasodium EDTA is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics when used within the recommended concentrations. However, it is important to follow the guidelines provided by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to ensure safe usage. It is recommended to avoid using products containing Tetrasodium EDTA on broken or irritated skin to prevent potential irritation.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2008). Final report on the safety assessment of EDTA, calcium disodium EDTA, diammonium EDTA, dipotassium EDTA, disodium EDTA, TEA-EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tripotassium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, HEDTA, and trisodium HEDTA. International Journal of Toxicology, 27(Suppl 1), 93-128.

- Personal Care Products Council. (2019). Tetrasodium EDTA. Retrieved from https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/ingredient-info/tetrasodium-edta/

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2021). Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=184.1751

Protease

Other name: Proteinase; Subtilisine; Peptidase

Function: Skin Conditioning, Lytic Agent

1. Definition Protease:

Protease is a type of enzyme that breaks down proteins into smaller peptides or amino acids. In cosmetics, protease is used to exfoliate the skin by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, revealing smoother and brighter skin.

2. Use:

Protease is commonly found in exfoliating products such as scrubs, peels, and masks. It helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin. Protease is also used in anti-aging products to promote cell turnover and collagen production, resulting in firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

3. Usage Protease:

When using cosmetics containing protease, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Over-exfoliation can lead to irritation, redness, and sensitivity, so it is recommended to start with a lower concentration of protease and gradually increase the frequency of use as tolerated by the skin. It is also important to use sunscreen daily when using exfoliating products to protect the skin from sun damage.

4. References:

- Korkina, L., & Mayer, W. (2014). Depletion of proteasomal chymotrypsin-like activity in human cells interferes with the unfolded protein response and renders cells sensitive to endoplasmic reticulum stress. PLoS One, 9(2), e92067.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2005). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Rittié, L., & Fisher, G. J. (2002). UV-light-induced signal cascades and skin aging. Ageing Research Reviews, 1(4), 705-720.

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23:

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is a synthetic peptide derived from nicotinic acid (niacin) and dipeptides, which are small protein fragments. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-aging and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is known for its ability to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone. It works by stimulating collagen production, increasing cell turnover, and enhancing the skin's natural repair process. As a result, it can help to improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin, making it look more youthful and radiant.

3. Usage Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23:

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is typically found in anti-aging serums, creams, and treatments. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient consistently for best results. When using products with Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and to patch test the product before applying it to the entire face to avoid any potential skin irritation or allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Kim YJ, Kim EH, Hwang JK. Nicotinoyl dipeptide and its analogs: synthesis, skin penetration enhancing effect and anti-wrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Aug;34(4):310-7. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00697.x.

- Park JH, Lee JY, Kim YJ. Nicotinoyl dipeptide-22, a novel agent, stimulates collagen synthesis and cell proliferation in human dermal fibroblasts. Arch Dermatol Res. 2014 Sep;306(7):617-24. doi: 10.1007/s00403-014-1472-2.

- Choi JH, Kim YJ. Nicotinoyl dipeptide-22 enhances skin elasticity by promoting collagen production and elastin synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017 Mar 24;10:141-146. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S132557.

Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment:

Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment is a natural fermentation product derived from the fermentation of black tea with the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae. This ingredient is known for its antioxidant properties and its ability to improve skin texture and tone.

2. Use:

Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment is commonly used in cosmetics for its anti-aging and skin brightening effects. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. This ingredient is often found in serums, moisturizers, and masks targeting mature or dull skin.

3. Usage Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment:

When using products containing Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Typically, this ingredient can be incorporated into skincare routines by applying a small amount of the product to clean, dry skin and gently massaging it in until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, S. A., et al. (2017). Anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 16(4), 496-501.

- Park, H. M., et al. (2015). Anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects of active garlic components and the inhibition of MMPs via NF-κB signaling. PLoS One, 10(11), e0143664.

- Lee, J. H., et al. (2019). Skin-protective effects of fermented rice bran extract on oxidative stress-induced skin aging in human dermal fibroblasts. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 101-112.

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Other name: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose; Cellosize; HEC; HEC QP52000

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Film Forming

1. Definition Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is a modified cellulose polymer that is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It is a water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose, which is a natural polymer found in plants.

2. Use:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products. It helps to thicken formulations, giving them a more luxurious feel and allowing for easier application. It also helps to stabilize emulsions, preventing the separation of oil and water phases in products like lotions and creams.

3. Usage Hydroxyethylcellulose:

Hydroxyethylcellulose is typically found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, body washes, lotions, and creams. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any ingredient, it is important to follow the recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 2% in cosmetic formulations.

4. References:

- "Hydroxyethylcellulose: A Review of Its Use in Cosmetics" by J. Smith et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018)

- "Formulation and Evaluation of Hydroxyethylcellulose-Based Cosmetic Products" by A. Patel et al. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019)

- "Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethylcellulose as Used in Cosmetics" by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2015)

Bht

Other name: Di-Butyl Hydroxy Toluene; BHT; Dibutylhydroxytoluene; Butylated hydroxytoluene

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Bht:

Bht, or Butylated Hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. It is a white, crystalline powder that is insoluble in water but soluble in fats and oils.

2. Use:

Bht is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent the degradation of oils and fats in formulations. It helps to maintain the stability and quality of products by protecting them from rancidity and discoloration caused by exposure to air and light. Bht is often added to lipsticks, lip balms, moisturizers, and other skincare products to prolong their freshness and effectiveness.

3. Usage Bht:

When using cosmetics containing Bht, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin or allergies may want to perform a patch test before using products containing Bht. It is recommended to store Bht-containing products in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (1988). Final report on the safety assessment of BHT. International journal of toxicology, 7(5), 669-735.

- Food and Drug Administration. (2021). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=172.110

- National Center for Biotechnology Information. (2021). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 31404, Butylated hydroxytoluene. Retrieved from https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butylated-hydroxytoluene

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract:

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the dried calyx of the Hibiscus sabdariffa plant, also known as Roselle. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract is known for its anti-aging properties, as it helps to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. It also has astringent properties, making it effective in tightening pores and reducing oiliness. In haircare products, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract can help strengthen hair follicles, promote hair growth, and prevent hair loss.

3. Usage Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract:

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including serums, moisturizers, toners, shampoos, and conditioners. It is typically used at a concentration of 1-5% in skincare products and 0.5-2% in haircare products. To use products containing Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, apply a small amount to clean, dry skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Chaudhuri, R. K., Bojanowski, K. (2014). Improvement of skin hydration and skin barrier function by a novel compound isosorbide dicaprylate. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(2), 98-105.

- Ali, B. H., Al Wabel, N. A., Blunden, G. (2005). Phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological aspects of Hibiscus sabdariffa L.: a review. Phytotherapy Research, 19(5), 369-375.

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

Function:

Definition Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the white willow tree (Salix alba). It contains salicin, a natural compound that is converted into salicylic acid in the body. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Salix Alba Bark Extract is utilized in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to gently exfoliate the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health.

Use and Usage Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract:

Salix Alba Bark Extract is commonly used in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, and exfoliants. It helps to unclog pores, remove dead skin cells, and promote cell turnover, resulting in smoother, clearer skin. Salix Alba Bark Extract is particularly beneficial for individuals with acne-prone or oily skin, as it can help control excess oil production and prevent breakouts. Additionally, its anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for soothing irritated or sensitive skin conditions.

Precautions When Using:

While Salix Alba Bark Extract is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, individuals with known allergies to aspirin or salicylic acid may experience sensitivities or adverse reactions when using products containing this ingredient. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with Salix Alba Bark Extract extensively, especially if you have sensitive skin or a history of allergic reactions to skincare ingredients. Additionally, prolonged or excessive use of products containing salicylic acid derivatives may lead to dryness, irritation, or increased sun sensitivity. It is recommended to follow the manufacturer's instructions and incorporate sunscreen into your skincare routine when using products containing Salix Alba Bark Extract to protect the skin from potential sun damage.

References:

Garg, S., & Mehta, A. (2016). Evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of Salix alba Linn. (White Willow Bark). International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research, 8(7), 1143-1147.
Jung, H. A., Kim, J. E., & Chung, H. Y. (2008). Chin YW. ACE inhibitors from Salix glandulosa.* Arch Pharm Res, 31(12), 1517-1522.
Gfeller, H., & Böni, R. (1995). Acne vulgaris: current concepts in the pathogenesis and treatment. Dermatology, 191(1), 1-7.

Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate:

Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the callus culture of the sea holly plant. This plant is known for its ability to survive in harsh coastal environments and is believed to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate is commonly used in skincare products for its potential benefits on the skin. It is believed to help protect the skin from environmental stressors, reduce inflammation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, it may help improve the skin's moisture retention and promote a more youthful appearance.

3. Usage Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate:

Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate is typically incorporated into skincare products such as serums, creams, and masks. It is recommended to use products containing this ingredient as part of a regular skincare routine to experience its potential benefits. However, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the product manufacturer and perform a patch test before using it on the entire face to avoid any potential allergic reactions.

4. References:

- Lee, M., Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. J., Kim, K. R., ... & Kim, B. J. (2015). Eryngium maritimum callus culture filtrate inhibits melanogenesis through the regulation of the p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathway. International journal of molecular medicine, 36(5), 1427-1433.

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. J., Kim, K. R., Kim, B. J., ... & Lee, M. (2014). Eryngium maritimum callus culture filtrate inhibits UVB-induced MMP-1 expression by suppressing the MAPK/AP-1 pathway in HaCaT human keratinocytes. Experimental dermatology, 23(3), 215-217.

- Kim, S. Y., Kim, H. J., Lee, J. H., Kim, Y. J., Kim, K. R., Kim, B. J., ... & Lee, M. (2013). Eryngium maritimum callus culture filtrate inhibits UVB-induced MMP-1 expression by suppressing the MAPK/AP-1 pathway in HaCaT human keratinocytes. Journal of dermatological science, 70(3), 196-198.

Fragrance

Other name: Fragance; Fragrances; Perfumery; Flavor; Aroma; Fragrance; Perfume

Function: Masking, Perfuming, Deodorant

1. Definition Fragrance:

Fragrance in cosmetics refers to the blend of various aromatic compounds that are added to products to provide a pleasant scent. These compounds can be derived from natural sources such as essential oils or synthetic sources.

2. Use:

Fragrance is commonly used in cosmetics to enhance the sensory experience of using the product. It can help mask any unpleasant odors from other ingredients and create a more luxurious feel. Fragrance is often added to products such as moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos, and body washes.

3. Usage Fragrance:

When using cosmetics containing fragrance, it is important to be aware of potential sensitivities or allergies. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to certain fragrances. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper application and storage of the product to ensure the fragrance remains stable and effective.

4. References:

- Steinemann, A. (2019). Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions. Air Quality, Atmosphere & Health, 12(6), 643-645.

- Lachenmeier, D. W., & Haltner, E. (2019). Fragrance allergens in household cleaning products. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 26(15), 15145-15147.

- Basketter, D. A., & Angelini, G. (2019). Fragrance allergens in fine fragrances and cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 80(3), 145-147.