Full ingredients list YURI PIBU Artichoke Power Essence

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
		Artichoke Leaf Extract (60%)
		Witch Hazel Water
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
	B	Coco-Caprylate (Emollient)
1 2	A	Silica (Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent)
1		Eclipta Prostrata Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil	Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1		Pulsatilla Koreana Extract (Skin Conditioning)
		Lichen Extract
1		Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Humectant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Beuthero Root Extract
1	A	Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil	Promotes Wound Healing Fungal Acne Trigger
3		Rose Flower Oil (Fragrance)
2		Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil (Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)	Bad for sensitive skin
6		Tea Tree Leaf Oil (Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant)	Bad for sensitive skin Acne fighting
1		Ceramide 3 (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Sodium Hyaluronate (Humectant, Skin Conditioning)	Good for dry skin Promotes Wound Healing
1		Phytosphingosine (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1		Yeast Polysaccharides (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Skin Protecting, Film Forming)
1	A	Cholesterol (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising)
1 2		Lecithin (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1	A	Squalene (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting)	Fungal Acne Trigger
		Glucosyl Ceramide (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Keratin Amino Acids (Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)
1	A	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter	Bad for oily skin Fungal Acne Trigger
1		Tocopherol	Good for dry skin Anti Aging
1		Adenosine (Skin Conditioning)	Anti Aging
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1	B	Cetearyl Olivate (Hair Conditioning)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sorbitan Olivate (Emulsifying, Surfactant)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	A	Sclerotium Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising)

Artichoke Leaf Extract (60%)

Function:

Witch Hazel Water

Function:

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate

Function: Emollient

1. Definition Coco-Caprylate:

Coco-Caprylate is a natural ester derived from coconut oil and caprylic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a lightweight emollient and solvent.

2. Use:

Coco-Caprylate is used in cosmetics as a substitute for mineral oil and silicone-based ingredients. It helps to provide a smooth and silky feel to the skin without leaving a greasy residue. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, serums, and sunscreens.

3. Usage Coco-Caprylate:

When using products containing Coco-Caprylate, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before using products with this ingredient. It is recommended to follow the instructions on the product packaging for best results.

4. References:

- "Coco-Caprylate." CosmeticsInfo.org, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/coco-caprylate.

- "Coco-Caprylate." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/coco-caprylate/.

- "Coco-Caprylate: A Natural Alternative to Silicones." Formulator Sample Shop, www.formulatorsampleshop.com/product/coco-caprylate.

Silica

Other name: Silicon dioxide; Silicic anhydride; Siliceous earth

Function: Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling, Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Anticaking Agent

1. Definition Silica:

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a mineral often used in cosmetics for its absorbent and thickening properties. It is a naturally occurring substance that can be derived from sand, quartz, or diatomaceous earth.

2. Use:

Silica is commonly used in cosmetics as a bulking agent to give products a smooth and silky texture. It is also used as an absorbent to control oil and shine on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in face powders, foundations, and primers. Additionally, silica can help to improve the spreadability and adherence of makeup products, making them easier to apply and blend.

3. Usage Silica:

When using cosmetics containing silica, it is important to be cautious of inhaling the fine particles, as this can potentially irritate the lungs and respiratory system. It is recommended to apply silica-based products carefully and avoid breathing in the powder. Some individuals may also be sensitive to silica, experiencing skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it is advisable to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient extensively.

4. References:

- K. T. K. Lu, "Silica as a Cosmetic Ingredient," in Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 134, no. 9, pp. 40-47, 2019.

- S. M. R. Khan et al., "Silica in Cosmetics: A Review," in Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 68, no. 3, pp. 185-197, 2017.

- M. A. S. Pereira et al., "Safety Assessment of Silica in Cosmetics," in International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 36, no. 3, pp. 235-253, 2017.

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Eclipta Prostrata Extract:

Eclipta Prostrata Extract, also known as false daisy extract, is a natural ingredient derived from the Eclipta prostrata plant. This plant has been used in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hair growth promoting properties.

2. Use:

Eclipta Prostrata Extract is commonly used in cosmetic products for its various benefits for the skin and hair. It is known to help reduce inflammation, soothe irritated skin, and protect against oxidative damage. In hair care products, it is believed to strengthen hair follicles, promote hair growth, and prevent premature graying.

3. Usage Eclipta Prostrata Extract:

Eclipta Prostrata Extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as serums, creams, shampoos, and conditioners. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is generally considered safe for topical use, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Chaudhary H, Kohli K, Kumar V. Medicinal properties of Eclipta alba (Linn) Hassk. (Bhringraj): A review. J Nat Prod Plant Resour. 2013;3(4):86-98.

- Singh SK, Singh N, Kumar A, et al. Eclipta alba (L.) Hassk. (Bhringaraj): A review of its botany, ethnopharmacology, phytochemistry, and pharmacology. J Ethnopharmacol. 2021;264:113295.

- Zaid AN, Al-Rimawi F, Abu-Lafi S, et al. Phytochemical analysis, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cancer activities of Eclipta prostrata (L.) L. extracts. BMC Complement Med Ther. 2021;21(1):196.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Other name: Helianthus Annuus Seed oil; Sunflower Seed oil

Function:

1. Definition Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil extracted from the seeds of sunflowers. It is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sunflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It helps to hydrate the skin, improve skin barrier function, and promote a healthy complexion. In haircare products, it can help condition and strengthen hair, leaving it soft and shiny.

3. Usage Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Sunflower seed oil can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, hair masks, and body oils. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. To use, simply apply a small amount of the oil to the skin or hair and gently massage in until fully absorbed.

Precautions: While sunflower seed oil is generally considered safe for topical use, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin. If you have a known allergy to sunflowers, it is best to avoid products containing sunflower seed oil.

4. References:

- M. S. Khan, M. A. Ali, M. P. Alam, M. A. Parvez, and S. Ahmad, "Phyto-pharmacological perspective of Helianthus annuus L. seeds," Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, vol. 1, no. 8, pp. 35-41, 2011.

- D. R. Kamimura, C. S. de Oliveira, and L. G. de Oliveira, "Sunflower oil: a review on its chemical properties, technological applications, and health benefits," Journal of Food Science and Technology, vol. 57, no. 1, pp. 388-398, 2020.

- L. M. de Souza, D. G. de Oliveira, M. M. M. A. Alves, and R. L. C. Giacometti, "Sunflower seed oil in cosmetics: an overview of its properties and applications," International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 42, no. 4, pp. 313-321, 2020.

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract:

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, also known as Japanese Pepper Extract, is derived from the fruit of the Zanthoxylum piperitum plant. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.

2. Use:

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, and fight against free radicals that can cause premature aging. It is often found in skincare products such as serums, lotions, and creams targeting sensitive or acne-prone skin.

3. Usage Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract:

When using products containing Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, it is important to patch test first to ensure there is no allergic reaction. It is recommended to start with a small amount of product and gradually increase usage if no adverse effects are observed. This extract is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin should consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- Kim, J. Y., et al. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Zanthoxylum piperitum in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 203, 306-314.

- Lee, H. S., et al. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effects of Zanthoxylum piperitum ethanol extract in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells. Journal of Medicinal Food, 18(3), 294-303.

- Park, H. J., et al. (2011). Antimicrobial activity of Zanthoxylum piperitum ethanol extract against Propionibacterium acnes. Journal of Microbiology, 49(4), 686-691.

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Pulsatilla Koreana Extract:

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the Pulsatilla Koreana plant, which is native to Korea. This extract is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its ability to calm and soothe the skin. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, this extract has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from environmental damage and premature aging.

3. Usage Pulsatilla Koreana Extract:

When using products containing Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This extract is generally safe for use on all skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately. It is also important to store products containing this extract in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain their efficacy.

4. References:

- Lee JH, Kim YG, Ra HH, Cho YW, Lee J, Lee J, Kim JH, Park CS, Lee HK. Anti-inflammatory effect of Pulsatilla koreana extract through the inhibition of NF-κB signaling pathway in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. J Ethnopharmacol. 2015 Oct 15;174:17-24. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2015.08.038. Epub 2015 Aug 28. PMID: 26321136.

- Kim YG, Lee JH, Kim JH, Park CS, Lee HK. Anti-inflammatory effects of Pulsatilla koreana extract on the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase in RAW 264.7 cells. J Ethnopharmacol. 2013 Nov 25;150(2):601-6. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2013.09.042. Epub 2013 Oct 4. PMID: 24096038.

- Lee JH, Kim YG, Ra HH, Cho YW, Lee J, Lee J, Kim JH, Park CS, Lee HK. Anti-inflammatory effect of Pulsatilla koreana extract through the inhibition of NF-κB signaling pathway in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. J Ethnopharmacol. 2015 Oct 15;174:17-24. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2015.08.038. Epub 2015 Aug 28. PMID: 26321136.

Lichen Extract

Function:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Other name: Pitera; Saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate

Function: Humectant

1. Definition Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is a type of yeast extract that is commonly used in skincare products. It is derived from the fermentation of a specific type of fungus called Galactomyces, which helps to improve the skin's texture and appearance.

2. Use:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is known for its ability to hydrate and brighten the skin, as well as improve the skin's elasticity and overall health. It is often used in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it can help to balance the skin's oil production and reduce the appearance of pores.

3. Usage Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is typically found in serums, essences, and moisturizers. It is best applied to clean, toned skin before other skincare products. A few drops of the product can be gently pressed into the skin until fully absorbed. It is recommended to use products containing Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate consistently for best results.

4. References:

- Kim, W. S., Park, S. H., & Ahn, S. K. (2018). Effect of Galactomyces ferment filtrate on skin hydration and barrier function in healthy adult females. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 419-423.

- Lee, H. H., & Kim, J. H. (2017). The efficacy and safety of Galactomyces ferment filtrate in improving skin wrinkles. Korean Journal of Aesthetic Cosmetology, 15(2), 287-293.

- Lee, J. H., & Kim, D. H. (2016). Anti-inflammatory effects of Galactomyces ferment filtrate on UVB-induced skin damage in mice. Journal of Dermatological Science, 84(1), e51.

Beuthero Root Extract

Function:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil

Function:

1. Definition Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil derived from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is rich in linoleic acid, which is known for its moisturizing and skin-repairing properties.

2. Use:

Safflower seed oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its emollient properties, making it an excellent ingredient for moisturizing and nourishing the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums, as well as in hair care products like conditioners and hair masks.

3. Usage Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil:

Safflower seed oil can be applied directly to the skin or hair, or it can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. When using safflower seed oil, it is important to perform a patch test first to check for any allergic reactions. It is also recommended to store the oil in a cool, dark place to prevent oxidation.

4. References:

- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017;10(7):14-17.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70.

- Meier L, Stange R, Michalsen A, Uehleke B. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne--results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-79.

Rose Flower Oil

Function: Fragrance

1. Definition Rose Flower Oil:

Rose Flower Oil is a natural essential oil extracted from the petals of the rose flower through steam distillation. It is known for its sweet, floral scent and is widely used in cosmetics for its skin-nourishing properties.

2. Use:

Rose Flower Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging benefits. It is often found in skincare products such as face creams, serums, and masks due to its ability to hydrate and soothe the skin. Additionally, its antioxidant properties help protect the skin from environmental damage and promote a radiant complexion.

3. Usage Rose Flower Oil:

When using Rose Flower Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a highly concentrated essential oil. It is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Due to its potency, it is best to use it sparingly and avoid direct contact with the eyes. Pregnant women and individuals with sensitive skin should consult with a healthcare professional before using products containing Rose Flower Oil.

4. References:

- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013.

- Babaei, S., & Talebi, A. (2016). The effect of aromatherapy massage with lavender oil on severity of primary dysmenorrhea in Arsanjan students. Journal of Medicinal Plants, 15(59), 150-158.

- Boskabady, M. H., Shafei, M. N., Saberi, Z., & Amini, S. (2011). Pharmacological effects of Rosa damascena. Iranian Journal of Basic Medical Sciences, 14(4), 295-307.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil

Function: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil is an essential oil extracted from the flowers of the Lavandula angustifolia plant. It is known for its calming and soothing properties, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products.

2. Use:

Lavender oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and therapeutic benefits. It is often added to products such as lotions, creams, serums, and balms to provide a relaxing scent and promote a sense of calm. Lavender oil is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient for treating skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and dryness.

3. Usage Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil:

When using lavender oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly to avoid skin irritation or sensitization. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using any product containing lavender oil to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. Lavender oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children to prevent accidental ingestion.

4. References:

- Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N. A., Shams, S., Ahamad, A., Khan, S. A., & Anwar, F. (2015). Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine, 5(8), 601-611.

- Cavanagh, H. M., & Wilkinson, J. M. (2002). Biological activities of lavender essential oil. Phytotherapy Research, 16(4), 301-308.

- Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2013, 681304.

Tea Tree Leaf Oil

Other name: melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil; melaleuca alternifolia oil; tea tree leaf oil; tea tree essential oil

Function: Perfuming, Fragrance, Antioxidant

1. Definition Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:

Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil is a natural essential oil derived from the leaves of the Tea Tree plant. It is known for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.

2. Use:

Tea Tree Leaf Oil is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to treat various skin conditions such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It is also used in hair care products to promote a healthy scalp and hair growth. Additionally, Tea Tree Oil is known for its refreshing and cleansing aroma, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

3. Usage Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil:

When using Tea Tree Leaf Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it can be irritating to the skin when used in high concentrations. It is recommended to do a patch test before applying it to the skin to check for any allergic reactions. Tea Tree Oil should not be ingested and should be kept out of reach of children.

4. References:

- Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., & Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.

- Hammer, K. A., Carson, C. F., & Riley, T. V. (2012). Antifungal activity of the components of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil. Journal of Applied Microbiology, 95(4), 853-860.

- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784-790.

Ceramide 3

Other name: Ceramide III; Ceramide NP

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is a type of lipid molecule that is naturally found in the skin's outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function and preventing moisture loss.

2. Use:

Ceramide 3 is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish and restore ceramides that may be depleted due to aging, environmental factors, or harsh skincare products. By incorporating ceramide 3 into formulations, it can help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health.

3. Usage Ceramide 3:

Ceramide 3 is typically found in moisturizers, serums, and creams designed for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. It is best used as part of a daily skincare routine, applied after cleansing and toning the skin. Ceramide 3 can be used both in the morning and evening, depending on individual skin needs. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns or specific skin conditions.

4. References:

- Choi MJ, Maibach HI. Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2005;6(4):215-223. doi:10.2165/00128071-200506040-00001

- Bouwstra JA, Ponec M. The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;1758(12):2080-2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

- Joo KM, Lee JH, Jeon YJ, Kim YS, Kim JH. Ceramide 3 enhances the protective function of the skin barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(1):13-18. doi:10.1111/ics.12248

Sodium Hyaluronate

Other name: Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Salt; Kopuron

Function: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring substance in the human body that is known for its ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration.

2. Use:

Sodium Hyaluronate is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and skin-plumping properties. It is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating the skin and promoting collagen production.

3. Usage Sodium Hyaluronate:

When using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either in the form of a serum, cream, or mask. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using it on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions.

Precautions: While Sodium Hyaluronate is generally considered safe for use in skincare products, it is always recommended to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions. Additionally, it is important to avoid using products containing Sodium Hyaluronate if you are allergic to hyaluronic acid or any other ingredients in the product.

4. References:

- Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., Schwach-Abdellaoui, K., Malle, B., & Korting, H. C. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD, 10(9), 990-1000.

- Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012). Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology, 4(3), 308-319.

Phytosphingosine

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine is a type of sphingolipid derived from plants, specifically from yeast fermentation of glucose. It is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin's lipid layer and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function.

2. Use:

Phytosphingosine is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. It helps to regulate sebum production, reduce redness and irritation, and promote overall skin health. Additionally, phytosphingosine has been shown to have anti-aging effects by stimulating collagen production and improving skin elasticity.

3. Usage Phytosphingosine:

Phytosphingosine can be found in various skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and creams. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 1% and can be applied topically to the skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing phytosphingosine before regular use to ensure compatibility with your skin. It is also important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer for optimal results.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Park, K. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

- Lupo, M. P. (2001). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 14(4), 279-285.

Yeast Polysaccharides

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Skin Protecting, Film Forming

1. Definition Yeast Polysaccharides:

Yeast Polysaccharides are complex carbohydrates derived from yeast cells. They are known for their ability to hydrate and improve the skin's barrier function, making them a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Yeast Polysaccharides are commonly used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and skin-soothing properties. They can help to improve the skin's texture, reduce redness, and enhance overall skin health. Additionally, Yeast Polysaccharides have been shown to have antioxidant properties, which can help protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Yeast Polysaccharides:

When using skincare products containing Yeast Polysaccharides, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. These products are typically safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying to the entire face to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is also important to note that Yeast Polysaccharides are generally well-tolerated, but individuals with sensitive skin may experience irritation.

4. References:

- Ribeiro, A., Estevinho, B. N., & Rocha, F. (2018). Yeasts' polysaccharides as active agents against skin pathogenic bacteria. Biotechnology Reports, 20, e00286.

- de Oliveira, T. M., de Barros, J. C., de Aguiar, L. M., & da Silva, R. (2019). Yeast polysaccharides: Potential application in the pharmaceutical industry. Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 55, e18191.

- Zhang, J., & Yan, L. (2017). Recent advances in extraction of bioactive polysaccharides from plant and microbial sources. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 59, 1-12.

Cholesterol

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Stabilising

1. Definition Cholesterol:

Cholesterol is a type of lipid that is naturally found in the skin and plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. In cosmetics, cholesterol is often used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Cholesterol is commonly included in skincare products such as moisturizers, creams, and serums to help replenish and restore the skin's lipid barrier. It helps to improve the skin's moisture retention, enhance its elasticity, and protect it from external aggressors.

3. Usage Cholesterol:

When using skincare products containing cholesterol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and gently massage it in until fully absorbed. It is advisable to perform a patch test before using the product on a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Katsambas, A.D., and Alexoudi, I. (2010). Cholesterol and skin care: facts, myths and controversies. Clinics in Dermatology, 28(4), 393-402.

- Rawlings, A.V., and Harding, C.R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43-48.

- Draelos, Z.D. (2000). The science behind skin care: moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(1), 22-26.

Lecithin

Other name: phosphatidylcholine; Lecithin; Lecithins; Soy Lecithin

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Lecithin:

Lecithin is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and emulsifier. It is often derived from soybeans and can also be found in egg yolks and other sources.

2. Use:

Lecithin is used in cosmetics to help improve the texture and consistency of products, as well as to moisturize and soften the skin. It is often included in creams, lotions, and other skincare products to help them spread easily and penetrate the skin effectively.

3. Usage Lecithin:

When using products containing lecithin, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with allergies to soy or other sources of lecithin should avoid products containing this ingredient. It is also recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Magdassi, S., & Garti, N. (1999). Lecithin-based emulsions. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 4(5), 311-316.

- Barauskas, J., & Nylander, T. (2005). Lecithin-based microemulsions. Langmuir, 21(2), 597-601.

- Komaiko, J. S., & McClements, D. J. (2016). Low-energy formation of edible nanoemulsions: Factors influencing droplet size produced by emulsion phase inversion. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 434, 8-20.

Squalene

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Refatting

1. Definition Squalene:

Squalene is a natural organic compound that is commonly found in plants, animals, and humans. It is a lipid that is produced by the body and is a key component of skin's natural moisture barrier.

2. Use:

Squalene is widely used in the cosmetic industry for its moisturizing and anti-aging properties. It is known for its ability to hydrate and protect the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple. Squalene is often used in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and face oils.

3. Usage Squalene:

When using products containing squalene, it is important to be aware of any potential allergies or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that it does not cause any adverse reactions. Additionally, squalene is sensitive to oxidation, so it is best to store products containing squalene in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation.

4. References:

- Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2017). Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70.

- Kim, S. K., & Karadeniz, F. (2012). Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 223-233.

- Sime, S., Reeve, V. E., & Protection, A. (2018). Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression and carcinogenesis induced by UV radiation in mice by topical Pycnogenol®. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences, 17(1), 54-61.

Glucosyl Ceramide

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Glucosyl Ceramide:

Glucosyl Ceramide is a type of ceramide that is derived from glucose. Ceramides are lipid molecules that are naturally found in the skin and play a crucial role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. Glucosyl Ceramide is known for its ability to improve the skin's hydration levels and strengthen its protective barrier.

2. Use:

Glucosyl Ceramide is commonly used in skincare products for its moisturizing and skin barrier repair properties. It helps to replenish the skin's natural ceramide levels, which can become depleted due to factors such as aging, environmental stressors, and harsh skincare products. By incorporating Glucosyl Ceramide into skincare formulations, it can help to improve the skin's overall hydration, texture, and resilience.

3. Usage Glucosyl Ceramide:

Glucosyl Ceramide can be found in a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, and creams. When using products containing Glucosyl Ceramide, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is recommended to apply the product to clean, dry skin and to allow it to fully absorb before applying any additional skincare products. It is also advisable to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Park, K. (2017). Role of Ceramides in Skin Barrier Function. Journal of Dermatological Science, 87(3), 243-249.

- Imokawa, G. (2017). Ceramide as a mediator of barrier function in the skin. Advances in Experimental Medicine and Biology, 1117, 293-303.

- Kikuchi, K., & Tagami, H. (2008). Ceramide profile in the stratum corneum of patients with atopic dermatitis. Journal of Dermatological Science, 51(2), 151-154.

Keratin Amino Acids

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Keratin Amino Acids:

Keratin Amino Acids are natural proteins that are derived from keratin, a key structural component of hair, skin, and nails. These amino acids are known for their ability to strengthen and repair damaged hair and improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

2. Use:

Keratin Amino Acids are commonly used in cosmetics and hair care products due to their ability to improve the strength, elasticity, and moisture retention of the hair and skin. They can help repair damage caused by heat styling, chemical treatments, and environmental stressors, resulting in smoother, shinier hair and softer, more supple skin.

3. Usage Keratin Amino Acids:

Keratin Amino Acids are typically found in shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, serums, and skincare products. To use products containing Keratin Amino Acids, simply apply them to clean, damp hair or skin, massage gently, and leave on for the recommended amount of time before rinsing off. It is important to follow the instructions on the product packaging and to avoid overuse, as excessive use of Keratin Amino Acids can lead to buildup and potential damage to the hair and skin.

4. References:

- Arévalo, M. I., & Hermida, L. G. (2019). Keratin-based materials for biomedical applications. Biomedical materials, 14(3), 032001.

- Park, S. Y., & Park, S. H. (2019). Effects of hair care products with keratin on damaged hair. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 45(3), 227-234.

- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: an overview. International journal of trichology, 7(1), 2.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Function:

1. Definition Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree. It is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, making it a popular ingredient in skincare and cosmetic products.

2. Use:

Shea butter is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, making it a popular choice for hydrating dry skin. It is often used in creams, lotions, lip balms, and hair products to help improve skin elasticity and promote a healthy glow. Shea butter is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, making it a versatile ingredient in various cosmetic formulations.

3. Usage Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter:

When using products containing Shea butter, it is important to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Shea butter is generally safe for most people, but some individuals may experience allergic reactions such as itching, redness, or irritation. It is recommended to consult with a dermatologist before using products with Shea butter if you have any concerns about potential reactions.

4. References:

- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda H, and Masters ET. Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science. 2010; 59(6):273-80.

- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018; 19(1):70.

- Aremu AO, Oyedeji AO, Oyedeji O, Okorie DO, and Nkeh-Chungag BN. Phytochemical composition and antibacterial activity of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter). Journal of Medicinal Plants Research. 2012; 6(26):4467-4472.

Tocopherol

Other name: Tocopherol; Vit E; vitamin E; α-Tocopherol; Alpha-tocopherol

Function:

1. Definition Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E that is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its antioxidant properties. It is a fat-soluble vitamin that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage.

2. Use:

Tocopherol is used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin, as well as to protect it from UV damage. It is often included in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Tocopherol is also known for its soothing and healing properties, making it a popular ingredient in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Tocopherol:

Tocopherol can be found in a variety of skincare and cosmetic products, including moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and sunscreens. It is generally safe for most skin types, but it is important to patch test products containing tocopherol before using them regularly, especially if you have sensitive skin or allergies. Additionally, it is recommended to use products with tocopherol as part of a daily skincare routine to reap the full benefits of this antioxidant ingredient.

4. References:

- Baumann, L. (2007). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Chichester, West Sussex: Wiley-Blackwell.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Adenosine

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Adenosine:

Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside that plays a crucial role in various biochemical processes in the body. In cosmetics, adenosine is used for its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Adenosine is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the signs of aging, and promote skin elasticity. It also helps to calm and soothe irritated skin, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

3. Usage Adenosine:

Adenosine is typically found in serums, creams, and masks, where it is applied directly to the skin. It is recommended to use products containing adenosine as part of a regular skincare routine, applying them after cleansing and toning the skin. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging and consult with a dermatologist if any irritation occurs.

4. References:

- Lee, S. H., & Lee, J. H. (2018). Topical adenosine for hair loss: A promising alternative to minoxidil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(3), 457-461.

- Kim, D. S., et al. (2013). Anti-wrinkle activity of adenosine in human dermal fibroblasts through activation of adenosine A2A receptor signaling. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(1), 282-291.

- Baek, J. H., et al. (2016). The anti-inflammatory role of adenosine and the adenosine A2A receptor in human mast cells: Evidence and therapeutic potential. Journal of Immunology, 196(10), 4002-4011.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Cetearyl Olivate

Other name: Sorbitan Olivate; OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is a natural emulsifier derived from olive oil and cetearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products to help blend oil and water-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Cetearyl Olivate is primarily used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics to create stable emulsions and prevent separation of oil and water phases. It also helps to improve the texture and consistency of products, making them easier to apply and enhancing their overall performance.

3. Usage Cetearyl Olivate:

Cetearyl Olivate is considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient. It is generally well-tolerated and non-irritating, but as with any new skincare product, it is recommended to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Derm Review. https://thedermreview.com/cetearyl-olivate/

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by The Eco Well. https://www.theecowell.com/single-post/2018/09/12/Cetearyl-Olivate

- "Cetearyl Olivate" by Truth In Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetearyl-olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Other name: OLIVEM 1000; OLIVEM 900; Cetearyl Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate; Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate

Function: Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sorbitan Olivate:

Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier derived from olive oil and sorbitol. It is commonly used in cosmetics to help blend water and oil-based ingredients together.

2. Use:

Sorbitan Olivate is used in a variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums. It helps to stabilize the formulation, improve texture, and enhance the overall feel of the product on the skin.

3. Usage Sorbitan Olivate:

When using products containing Sorbitan Olivate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin. As with any cosmetic ingredient, it is recommended to discontinue use if any irritation or adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- Rizzi, V., L. Cavaletti, L. Battaglia, and C. Banchelli. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Alternative to Synthetic Emulsifiers." International Journal of Cosmetic Science 34, no. 1 (2012): 73-81.

- Lopes, L. B., and S. L. Bentley. "Sorbitan Olivate: A Natural Multifunctional Biomimetic Emulsifier." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11, no. 4 (2012): 298-305.

- Puglia, C., L. Offerta, M. Saija, G. Trombetta, and M. G. Vento. "Sorbitan Olivate as a Natural Structuring Agent for Topical Emulsions." International Journal of Pharmaceutics 441, no. 1-2 (2013): 256-63.

Sclerotium Gum

Other name: Amigel; Sclerotium rolfssii Gum

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising

1. Definition Sclerotium Gum:

Sclerotium Gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by the fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii, a filamentous fungus. It is commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Sclerotium Gum is used in a wide range of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, and gels to improve texture, stability, and overall product performance. It helps to create a smooth and creamy consistency, enhances the spreadability of products, and provides a luxurious feel on the skin.

3. Usage Sclerotium Gum:

When using cosmetics containing Sclerotium Gum, it is important to follow the recommended usage instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Sclerotium Gum to the entire face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Lopes, L. B., & Speretta, F. F. F. (2015). Use of natural gums in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. In Natural polymers for drug delivery (pp. 349-370). Elsevier.

- Kim, S., & Kim, J. (2019). Sclerotium Gum. In Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 479-484). CRC Press.

- Ansel, H. C., Allen Jr, L. V., Popovich, N. G., & Ansel, H. C. (2010). Pharmaceutical dosage forms and drug delivery systems. Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.