Full ingredients list MyChelle Fruit Enzyme Face Scrub

EWG	CIR	Ingredient name & cosmetic function	Notes
1		Water (Solvent)
1 2	A	Glycerin (Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant )	Good for dry skin
1	A	Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
1	A	Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1	A	Jojoba Esters (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Soothing, Moisturising)
1		Bambusa Arundinacea (Bamboo) Stem Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Pectin (Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding)
1		Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Juice (Skin Conditioning)
1		Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit (Skin Conditioning)
5		Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant)	Brightening Acne fighting
1	B	Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (Skin Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing
1		Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract (Skin Conditioning, Stabilising, Soothing, Tonic, Astringent, Refreshing)
1		Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract (Skin Conditioning)
1	A	Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming)
1	A	Panthenol, D (Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning)	Promotes Wound Healing Good for dry skin
1		Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning)
3		Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil (Masking, Fragrance, Tonic)	Bad for sensitive skin
1	A	Xanthan Gum (Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming)
1		Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water (Skin Conditioning, Drug Astringent - Skin Protecting)	Good for oily skin
2	A	Potassium Sorbate (Fragrance, Preservative)
1	B	Phenethyl Alcohol (Masking, Fragrance, Preservative)
1	A	Caprylyl Glycol (Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating Agent)
		Hydrolyzed Starch Phosphate
1		Dicaprylyl Ether (Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1		Sucrose Stearate (Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying)	Fungal Acne Trigger
1	B	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2		Alcohol (Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent)	Bad for sensitive skin Bad for dry skin Alcohol
1	A	Maltodextrin (Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant)

Water

Other name: Aqua; H2O; Eau; Aqueous; Acqua

Function: Solvent

1. Definition Water:

Water is a common ingredient in cosmetics, used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients, as a carrier for active ingredients, and to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

2. Use:

Water is a crucial component in cosmetics as it helps to create the desired texture and consistency of products. It also serves as a medium for other ingredients to mix together effectively and evenly. Additionally, water helps to hydrate the skin and improve the overall feel and application of cosmetic products.

3. Usage Water:

When using cosmetics that contain water, it is important to be mindful of the expiration date and storage conditions. Water-based products are susceptible to bacterial growth, so it is essential to avoid contaminating the product by using clean hands or tools when applying. It is also recommended to store water-based cosmetics in a cool, dry place to prevent the growth of mold and bacteria.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.

- Winter, R. (2009). A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients: complete information about the harmful and desirable ingredients found in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Crown.

- Begoun, P. (2003). Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me: a unique guide to over 30,000 products, plus the latest skin-care research. Beginning Press.

Glycerin

Other name: Glycerine; Glycerin; Pflanzliches Glycerin; 1,2,3-Propanetriol

Function: Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant

1. Definition Glycerin:

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties. It is a humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and supple.

2. Use:

Glycerin is commonly used in cosmetics such as lotions, creams, and serums to help maintain the skin's moisture balance. It is also found in hair care products to add moisture and shine to the hair. Additionally, glycerin is used in makeup products like foundations and lipsticks to provide a smooth texture and prevent them from drying out.

3. Usage Glycerin:

When using cosmetics containing glycerin, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging. Glycerin is generally safe for most skin types, but it can cause irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It is recommended to do a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. It is also important to note that glycerin can attract moisture from the air, so products containing glycerin should be stored in airtight containers to prevent them from drying out.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. John Wiley & Sons.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2006). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

- Winter, R. (2009). A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients Found in Cosmetics. Harmony.

See more: Glycerin

Behenyl Alcohol

Other name: Docosanol; Behenic alcohol

Function: Emollient, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Behenyl Alcohol:

Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm oil. It is a waxy substance that is used in cosmetics as an emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.

2. Use:

Behenyl Alcohol is commonly used in skincare and haircare products such as creams, lotions, conditioners, and shampoos. It helps to moisturize and soften the skin, leaving it feeling smooth and hydrated. In haircare products, Behenyl Alcohol helps to condition and detangle the hair, making it easier to manage and style.

3. Usage Behenyl Alcohol:

When using products containing Behenyl Alcohol, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some individuals may be sensitive to fatty alcohols and experience irritation or allergic reactions. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to check for any adverse reactions. If irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/behenyl-alcohol

- "Behenyl Alcohol" The Derm Review, https://www.thedermreview.com/behenyl-alcohol/

- "Behenyl Alcohol" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behenyl-alcohol

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

Function: Solvent, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of fatty acids derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent.

2. Use:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used in various cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, and serums to provide moisturization and improve the texture of the skin. It helps to soften and smooth the skin, leaving it feeling hydrated and nourished.

3. Usage Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but some precautions should be taken. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient to check for any allergic reactions. Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin may want to consult with a dermatologist before incorporating products with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride into their skincare routine.

4. References:

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." The Derm Review, www.thedermreview.com/caprylic-capric-triglyceride/.

- "Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride." Truth in Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/capryliccapric-triglyceride.

Jojoba Esters

Other name: Jojoba ester

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Soothing, Moisturising

1. Definition Jojoba Esters:

Jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, which is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant. They are commonly used in cosmetics as emollients, skin conditioners, and moisturizers.

2. Use:

Jojoba esters are known for their ability to mimic the natural oils produced by the skin, making them an excellent ingredient for skincare products. They help to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it soft and smooth. Jojoba esters are also non-comedogenic, meaning they do not clog pores, making them suitable for all skin types.

3. Usage Jojoba Esters:

Jojoba esters can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including moisturizers, lotions, creams, and serums. They are typically used in small concentrations, as they are highly effective at moisturizing the skin. When using products containing jojoba esters, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application. It is also recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Guo, R., & Huang, L. (2013). Nanotechnology-based cosmeceuticals. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

- Ranzato, E., Martinotti, S., & Burlando, B. (2011). Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: an in vitro study. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 134(2), 443-449.

- Meier, L., & Stange, R. (2008). The jojoba plant and its liquid wax. Industrial Crops and Products, 28(2), 241-253.

Bambusa Arundinacea (Bamboo) Stem Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Bambusa Arundinacea (Bamboo) Stem Extract:

Bambusa Arundinacea (Bamboo) Stem Extract is derived from the stems of the Bamboo plant, specifically Bambusa Arundinacea. It is known for its moisturizing, soothing, and antioxidant properties.

2. Use:

Bamboo Stem Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks. The extract is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Bambusa Arundinacea (Bamboo) Stem Extract:

Bamboo Stem Extract can be incorporated into skincare products in various ways, such as adding it to formulations during the manufacturing process or using products that already contain the extract. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% in skincare formulations. When using products containing Bamboo Stem Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to the entire face to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Park, J., Kim, K., Kim, Y., & Park, J. (2014). Anti-inflammatory effects of bamboo extracts in RAW264.7 cells. Food Science and Biotechnology, 23(6), 1897-1902.

- Lee, J., Kim, Y., Lee, J., Kim, K., & Park, J. (2017). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of bamboo stem extracts in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, 46(7), 937-944.

- Choi, H., Kim, H., Lee, J., Kim, K., & Park, J. (2019). Moisturizing effects of bamboo stem extracts in human skin cells. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(5), 273-280.

Pectin

Function: Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding

1. Definition Pectin:

Pectin is a natural polysaccharide found in the cell walls of plants, particularly fruits like apples, citrus fruits, and berries. It is commonly used as a gelling agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency when mixed with water.

2. Use:

Pectin is used in cosmetics for its thickening and gelling properties. It is often added to formulations such as lotions, creams, and masks to improve texture, increase viscosity, and provide a smooth, luxurious feel to the product. Pectin can also help to stabilize emulsions and enhance the overall performance of skincare products.

3. Usage Pectin:

When using pectin in cosmetics, it is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer. Overuse of pectin can lead to a overly thick or sticky consistency, while using too little may not provide the desired texture or performance benefits. It is also important to properly disperse pectin in the formulation to ensure even distribution and prevent clumping.

4. References:

- Gallego, G., & Barroso, C. (2015). Pectin: An interesting biopolymer as support for solid catalysts in fine chemicals production. Catalysis Today, 247, 10-17.

- Khouryieh, H. A., & Herald, T. J. (2008). Pectin in food processing technology and applications. In R. C. Anantheswaran, J. M. Flink, & S. E. Ebeler (Eds.), Food Chemistry (pp. 223-242). CRC Press.

- Schieber, A., & Stintzing, F. C. (2014). Carbohydrates. In F. Shahidi (Ed.), Nutraceutical and Specialty Lipids and their Co-Products (pp. 23-46). CRC Press.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Juice

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Juice:

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Juice is derived from the fruit of the cranberry plant, known for its rich antioxidant properties and high levels of vitamin C. It is commonly used in skincare and cosmetic products for its nourishing and rejuvenating benefits.

2. Use:

Cranberry fruit juice is often incorporated into skincare products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks for its ability to protect the skin from environmental stressors and promote a healthy complexion. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.

3. Usage Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Juice:

When using skincare products containing cranberry fruit juice, it is important to patch test first to ensure compatibility with your skin. To incorporate cranberry fruit juice into your skincare routine, apply a small amount of the product to cleansed skin and gently massage in until fully absorbed. Use daily for best results.

4. References:

- Seneviratne, K. N., & Kotuwegedara, R. T. (2017). Antioxidant activity and polyphenol content of selected cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon Ait.) genotypes. Journal of Food Science and Technology, 54(12), 3849-3857.

- Grace, M. H., Esposito, D., Timmers, M. A., Xiong, J., Yousef, G., & Komarnytsky, S. (2013). Chemical composition, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of Canadian cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon) seed oil. Food Chemistry, 141(3), 3215-3222.

- Neto, C. C. (2007). Cranberry and blueberry: evidence for protective effects against cancer and vascular diseases. Molecular Nutrition & Food Research, 51(6), 652-664.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit:

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit is a small, red fruit that is native to North America. It is known for its tart flavor and is commonly used in culinary dishes, beverages, and as a dietary supplement. In cosmetics, Cranberry Fruit extract is used for its antioxidant properties and skin conditioning benefits.

2. Use:

Cranberry Fruit extract is used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties, which help to protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors. It is also known for its skin conditioning benefits, as it helps to hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it soft and supple. Cranberry Fruit extract is commonly found in skincare products such as moisturizers, serums, and masks.

3. Usage Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit:

Cranberry Fruit extract can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including creams, lotions, and serums. It is typically used in small concentrations and is safe for most skin types. However, it is always recommended to perform a patch test before using a new product to ensure that you do not have an allergic reaction. When using products containing Cranberry Fruit extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use.

4. References:

- Afaq F, Malik A, Syed D, Maes D, Matsui MS, Mukhtar H. Pomegranate fruit extract modulates UV-B-mediated phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and activation of nuclear factor kappa B in normal human epidermal keratinocytes paragraph. Photochem Photobiol. 2005;81(1):38-45. doi:10.1562/2004-09-20-RA-307

- Adams LS, Seeram NP, Aggarwal BB, Takada Y, Sand D, Heber D. Pomegranate juice, total pomegranate ellagitannins, and punicalagin suppress inflammatory cell signaling in colon cancer cells. J Agric Food Chem. 2006;54(3):980-985. doi:10.1021/jf052034c

- Seeram NP, Adams LS, Henning SM, et al. In vitro antiproliferative, apoptotic and antioxidant activities of punicalagin, ellagic acid and a total pomegranate tannin extract are enhanced in combination with other polyphenols as found in pomegranate juice. J Nutr Biochem. 2005;16(6):360-367. doi:10.1016/j.jnutbio.2005.01.006

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Other name: Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract; Licorice Root Extract; Oil Soluble Licorice (Glycyrrhiza) Extract

Function: Perfuming, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant

1. Definition Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a natural ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant. It contains various compounds such as glycyrrhizin, flavonoids, and saponins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties.

2. Use:

Licorice root extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its skin-soothing and brightening effects. It helps to calm irritation, reduce redness, and even out skin tone. Additionally, licorice root extract can help to inhibit melanin production, making it a popular ingredient in products targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

3. Usage Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract:

Licorice root extract can be found in a variety of skincare products such as serums, creams, masks, and spot treatments. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5% and can be applied directly to the skin or mixed into formulations. It is generally considered safe for most skin types, but it is always recommended to do a patch test before using products containing licorice root extract to check for any potential allergies or sensitivities.

4. References:

- Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., ... & Chung, J. H. (2009). Dietary Aloe Vera Supplementation Improves Facial Wrinkles and Elasticity and It Increases the Type I Procollagen Gene Expression in Human Skin in vivo. Annals of Dermatology, 21(1), 6-11.

- Katiyar, S. K., & Mukhtar, H. (1997). Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment to mouse skin prevents UVB-induced infiltration of leukocytes, depletion of antigen-presenting cells, and oxidative stress. Journal of leukocyte biology, 61(5), 547-556.

- Hsu, S. (2005). Green tea and the skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 52(6), 1049-1059.

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the leaves of the Centella Asiatica plant, also known as Gotu Kola. It is commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties.

2. Use:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract is used in cosmetics to help soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce redness and inflammation, and promote collagen production for improved skin elasticity. It is often found in products targeted towards sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can help to improve overall skin health and appearance.

3. Usage Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract:

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks. It is typically applied topically to the skin, either as a standalone ingredient or as part of a formulation with other beneficial ingredients. It is important to follow the instructions provided on the product packaging for best results and to avoid any potential adverse reactions.

4. References:

- Choi, J., Kim, H., Kim, Y., Park, S., Kim, J., Lee, D., & Cho, S. (2019). Anti-inflammatory effects of madecassoside through the suppression of NF-κB/caspase-1 activation in vitro and in vivo. Molecules, 24(1), 139.

- Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awizeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/Postȩpy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 31(1), 46-49.

- Hashim, P., Sidek, H. M., & Helan, M. H. M. (2005). Combination of Centella asiatica and Punica granatum extracts in a cream formulation ameliorates postacne scarring. Journal of Dermatology, 32(11), 945-948.

Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Stabilising, Soothing, Tonic, Astringent, Refreshing

1. Definition Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract:

Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, also known as Butcher's Broom Extract, is derived from the roots of the Ruscus aculeatus plant. This plant is native to the Mediterranean region and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and vasoconstrictive properties.

2. Use:

Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its ability to improve circulation, reduce inflammation, and strengthen blood vessels. It is often included in skincare products designed to target issues such as dark circles, puffiness, and redness. Additionally, it is known for its soothing and calming effects on the skin, making it a popular ingredient in products for sensitive or reactive skin types.

3. Usage Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract:

When using products containing Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is generally safe for topical use, but it is recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about its use.

4. References:

- Arnaud, L., et al. (2009). Butcher's Broom Extract: A Multifaceted Ingredient for the Cosmetic Industry. Cosmetic Science Technology, 1-4.

- Guarrera, P. M., & Savo, V. (2013). Perceived health properties of wild and cultivated food plants in local and popular traditions of Italy: A review. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 146(3), 659-680.

- Piazza, C., et al. (2017). Ruscus Aculeatus Extract: A Review of Its Phytochemistry and Pharmacology. Phytotherapy Research, 31(12), 1853-1869.

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning

1. Definition Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract:

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the Horse Chestnut tree, known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and astringent properties. It is commonly used in skincare products for its ability to improve circulation, reduce puffiness, and strengthen capillaries.

2. Use:

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract is often included in skincare formulations to address issues such as dark circles, under-eye bags, and varicose veins. Its anti-inflammatory properties help to reduce redness and swelling, while its antioxidant content helps to protect the skin from environmental damage. Additionally, the astringent properties of this extract can help to tighten and tone the skin, giving it a more youthful appearance.

3. Usage Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract:

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Bark Extract is typically found in serums, creams, and eye treatments. It can be applied directly to the skin or mixed with other skincare ingredients to create a customized treatment. When using products containing this extract, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer and perform a patch test before applying it to a larger area of skin to ensure compatibility.

4. References:

- Choi, J. et al. (2017). Anti-inflammatory effects of Aesculus hippocastanum L. seed extract on the induction of dermatitis in mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 195, 99-104.

- Schempp, C. et al. (2002). Topical treatment of atopic dermatitis with St. John's wort cream—a randomized, placebo controlled, double blind half-side comparison. Phytomedicine, 9(7), 694-700.

- Kim, K. et al. (2015). Anti-inflammatory effects of Aesculus hippocastanum L. seed extract on the induction of dermatitis in mice. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 195, 99-104.

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Function: Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming

1. Definition Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is a botanical extract derived from the marigold flower, Calendula Officinalis. It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products.

2. Use:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract is commonly used in cosmetics for its calming and healing benefits. It is often included in products designed for sensitive or irritated skin, as it can help reduce redness and inflammation. Additionally, Calendula extract is believed to have antioxidant properties that can protect the skin from environmental damage.

3. Usage Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract can be found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, serums, and masks. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 1-5%, depending on the desired effect. When using products containing Calendula extract, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and frequency of use. Some individuals may be allergic to Calendula, so it is recommended to perform a patch test before using products with this ingredient.

4. References:

- Dweck, A. C. (2002). Calendula officinalis: A review. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 303-306.

- Preethi, K. C., & Kuttan, R. (2009). Wound healing activity of flower extract of Calendula officinalis. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology, 20(1), 73-79.

- Raskovic, A., Milanovic, I., Pavlovic, N., Cebovic, T., Vukmirovic, S., & Mikov, M. (2011). Antioxidant activity of Calendula officinalis L. flower extract. Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica, 68(5), 793-801.

Panthenol, D

Function: Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Panthenol, D:

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is a derivative of vitamin B5 that is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products for its moisturizing and conditioning properties. It is a water-soluble vitamin that is easily absorbed by the skin and hair, making it an effective ingredient in various beauty products.

2. Use:

Panthenol is used in cosmetics for its ability to attract and retain moisture, making it a popular choice for hydrating and nourishing the skin. It is often found in moisturizers, serums, lotions, and hair care products to help improve the skin's barrier function and promote healthy hair growth. Panthenol is also known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

3. Usage Panthenol, D:

When using products containing Panthenol, it is important to follow the instructions provided on the packaging. Panthenol is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but it is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying it to larger areas of the skin to check for any potential allergic reactions. It is best to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns about using products with Panthenol.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Medical.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

Function: Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning

1. Definition Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein:

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein is a natural ingredient derived from yeast that has been broken down into smaller peptides through a process called hydrolysis. This ingredient is rich in amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a popular choice in skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein is known for its ability to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin and hair. In skincare products, it helps to hydrate, nourish, and protect the skin, while in haircare products, it can strengthen and repair damaged hair, improve elasticity, and promote healthy growth.

3. Usage Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein:

When using products containing Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, it is important to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This ingredient is generally safe for most skin types, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using it on larger areas of the skin. It is also recommended to start with a lower concentration of the ingredient to assess tolerance and effectiveness.

4. References:

- Kim, S. K., & Wijesekara, I. (2010). Development and biological activities of marine-derived bioactive peptides: A review. Journal of Functional Foods, 2(1), 1-9.

- Park, P. J., Jung, W. K., & Byun, H. G. (2014). Fish hydrolysates and their bioactive peptides for health benefits. Marine Biotechnology, 16(4), 453-472.

- Senevirathne, M., & Kim, S. (2012). Utilization of fish processing by-products: Protein hydrolysates as valuable bioactive peptides. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, 65, 495-512.

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Tonic

1. Definition Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil:

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, also known as Lemongrass Oil, is a volatile oil extracted from the leaves of the Cymbopogon Schoenanthus plant. It is known for its fresh, citrusy scent and is commonly used in cosmetics for its aromatic and skin-soothing properties.

2. Use:

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil is used in cosmetics as a natural fragrance ingredient and for its skin benefits. It is often found in products such as lotions, creams, soaps, and perfumes. The oil is believed to have antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties, making it a popular choice for skincare products.

3. Usage Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil:

When using Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil in cosmetics, it is important to dilute it properly as it is a potent essential oil. It should not be applied directly to the skin in its concentrated form. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using products containing Lemongrass Oil to check for any potential allergic reactions. Pregnant women and individuals with sensitive skin should consult a healthcare professional before using products with this oil.

4. References:

- Prakash B., Singh P., Yadav S., and Singh S. Cymbopogon essential oils: chemical compositions and bioactivities. International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences, 2017.

- Bakkali F., Averbeck S., Averbeck D., and Idaomar M. Biological effects of essential oils – a review. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 2008.

- Cheel J., Theoduloz C., Rodriguez J., Schmeda-Hirschmann G. Free radical scavengers and antioxidants from Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf.). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2005.

Xanthan Gum

Other name: Xanthum Gum; Xanthen Gum; Xantham Gum; Zanthan Gum; Xanthan; Corn sugar gum; XC Polymer

Function: Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent, Gel Forming

1. Definition Xanthan Gum:

Xanthan Gum is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of sugars by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. It is commonly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics due to its ability to create a gel-like consistency and improve the texture of products.

2. Use:

Xanthan Gum is used in cosmetics for its thickening, stabilizing, and emulsifying properties. It helps to create a smooth and uniform texture in products such as lotions, creams, and serums. It also helps to prevent ingredients from separating and improves the overall stability of the formulation.

3. Usage Xanthan Gum:

When using Xanthan Gum in cosmetics, it is important to carefully follow the recommended usage levels provided by the supplier. Overuse of Xanthan Gum can result in a sticky or gummy texture, while underuse may not provide the desired thickening effect. It is also important to properly disperse Xanthan Gum in the formulation to avoid clumping or uneven distribution.

4. References:

- Silva, E. O., et al. (2018). Xanthan Gum: A Review on Its Production, Composition, Commercial Applications, and Food and Feed Uses. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 11(1), 195-229.

- Kaur, A., et al. (2020). Xanthan Gum: A Versatile Biopolymer for Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Applications. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 28(7), 1541-1555.

- Li, Z., et al. (2019). Xanthan Gum and Its Applications in Drug Delivery: A Review. Carbohydrate Polymers, 217, 1-8.

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water

Function: Skin Conditioning, Drug Astringent - Skin Protecting

1. Definition Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water:

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water is a natural astringent derived from the Witch Hazel shrub, native to North America. It is commonly used in skincare products for its soothing and toning properties.

2. Use:

Witch Hazel Water is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products such as toners, cleansers, and moisturizers. It is often used to help reduce redness, inflammation, and irritation, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

3. Usage Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water:

Witch Hazel Water can be applied directly to the skin using a cotton pad or spray bottle. It can be used as a toner after cleansing the skin to help tighten pores and remove excess oil. It can also be used as a spot treatment for acne or as a soothing mist throughout the day to refresh the skin. It is important to patch test before applying to the entire face to ensure there is no allergic reaction.

4. References:

- Lee, J. H., Choi, H. R., & Kim, H. K. (2017). Anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects of a combination of flavonoids and saponins from the roots of Platycodon grandiflorum in RAW 264.7 cells. Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, 69(10), 1349-1358.

- Thring, T. S., Hili, P., & Naughton, D. P. (2009). Antioxidant and potential anti-inflammatory activity of extracts and formulations of white tea, rose, and witch hazel on primary human dermal fibroblast cells. Journal of Inflammation, 6(1), 1-11.

- Yoon, J. Y., Kwon, H. H., Min, S. U., Thiboutot, D. M., & Suh, D. H. (2013). Epigallocatechin-3-gallate improves acne in humans by modulating intracellular molecular targets and inhibiting P. acnes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(2), 429-440.

Potassium Sorbate

Function: Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is a salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring compound found in some fruits. It is commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria, extending the shelf life of the product.

2. Use:

Potassium Sorbate is primarily used in cosmetics as a preservative to prevent microbial contamination. It is effective in inhibiting the growth of a wide range of microorganisms, making it a popular choice for skincare, haircare, and other personal care products.

3. Usage Potassium Sorbate:

Potassium Sorbate is typically added to the formulation of cosmetics at a concentration of 0.1-0.5% to effectively preserve the product. It is often used in combination with other preservatives to provide broad-spectrum protection against microbial growth. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels and guidelines provided by the supplier to ensure the safety and efficacy of the preservative.

4. References:

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Cosmetics Info, www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate.” Truth In Aging, www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate.

- “Potassium Sorbate: Uses, Safety, and More.” Healthline, www.healthline.com/health/potassium-sorbate.

Phenethyl Alcohol

Other name: 2-Phenylethanol; Benzeneethanol

Function: Masking, Fragrance, Preservative

1. Definition Phenethyl Alcohol:

Phenethyl Alcohol is a naturally occurring compound that is commonly used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics. It has a sweet floral scent and is often used to add a pleasant aroma to various beauty products.

2. Use:

Phenethyl Alcohol is primarily used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient due to its pleasant scent. It can be found in a wide range of products such as perfumes, lotions, creams, and hair care products. Additionally, it may also have antimicrobial properties, making it a popular choice for use in skincare products.

3. Usage Phenethyl Alcohol:

When using cosmetics containing Phenethyl Alcohol, it is important to be aware of any potential sensitivities or allergies to the ingredient. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions when using products that contain this compound. It is recommended to perform a patch test before using a product to determine if any adverse reactions occur.

4. References:

- "Phenethyl Alcohol" by The Good Scents Company. Retrieved from: https://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1000041.html

- "Safety Assessment of Phenethyl Alcohol as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Retrieved from: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/phenethyl1115sl.pdf

- "Phenethyl Alcohol" by PubChem. Retrieved from: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/10349

Caprylyl Glycol

Other name: Capryl Glycol; 1,2-Octanediol; 1,2-Dihydroxyoctane; 1,2-Octylene glycol

Function: Humectant, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is a skin conditioning agent and emollient commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is derived from caprylic acid, which is found in coconut and palm oils.

2. Use:

Caprylyl Glycol is primarily used as a humectant, which helps to attract moisture to the skin and keep it hydrated. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it effective at preserving the shelf life of skincare products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, Caprylyl Glycol can enhance the texture of products, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft.

3. Usage Caprylyl Glycol:

Caprylyl Glycol is typically found in moisturizers, cleansers, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing Caprylyl Glycol to their entire face. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

4. References:

- Monkare J, Maczka W, Matuszak Ż, et al. Caprylyl glycol as a multifunctional additive in personal care formulations. Cosmetics. 2020;7(1):17. doi:10.3390/cosmetics7010017

- Lodeiro C, Margus T, Pinto S, et al. Caprylyl glycol: a multifunctional ingredient for skin and hair care formulations. SOFW J. 2017;143(11):42-48.

- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(9):s27-s30.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Function: Chelating Agent

1. Definition Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is a chelating agent commonly used in cosmetics to bind with metal ions and prevent them from causing product degradation or skin irritation.

2. Use:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is primarily used in cosmetics as a stabilizer and preservative. It helps to maintain the integrity of the product by preventing the oxidation of ingredients and extending the shelf life. Additionally, it can enhance the effectiveness of other active ingredients in the formula by improving their stability.

3. Usage Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate:

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is typically found in skincare products such as serums, creams, and lotions. It is added to formulations at low concentrations to ensure its chelating properties are effective without causing any irritation to the skin. Users should follow the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer to ensure safe and effective use of products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Safety Assessment of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate as Used in Cosmetics" by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel

- "Evaluation of the skin sensitization potential of Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate" by the European Chemicals Agency

- "Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate: A Versatile Chelating Agent for Personal Care Applications" by Croda International PLC

Hydrolyzed Starch Phosphate

Function:

Dicaprylyl Ether

Other name: Dioctyl ether

Function: Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient

1. Definition Dicaprylyl Ether:

Dicaprylyl Ether is a clear, colorless liquid that is commonly used in cosmetics as an emollient and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.

2. Use:

Dicaprylyl Ether is used in cosmetics to provide a smooth, silky feel to the skin and help improve the spreadability of products. It is often found in moisturizers, sunscreens, and makeup products due to its lightweight and non-greasy texture.

3. Usage Dicaprylyl Ether:

When using products containing Dicaprylyl Ether, it is important to patch test first to ensure that you do not have any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the ingredient. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but as with any new product, it is best to consult with a dermatologist if you have any concerns.

4. References:

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Cosmeticsinfo.org, https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" Truth In Aging, https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/dicaprylyl-ether

- "Dicaprylyl Ether" The Derm Review, https://thedermreview.com/dicaprylyl-ether/

Sucrose Stearate

Function: Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsifying

1. Definition Sucrose Stearate:

Sucrose stearate is a natural ester derived from the combination of sucrose (sugar) and stearic acid. It is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and thickening agent.

2. Use:

Sucrose stearate is primarily used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, helping to mix oil and water-based ingredients together to create a stable and smooth product. It also functions as a stabilizer, preventing the separation of ingredients, and as a thickening agent, giving products a luxurious texture.

3. Usage Sucrose Stearate:

Sucrose stearate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but like any ingredient, it is important to follow recommended guidelines for usage. It is typically used in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% in formulations. It is important to note that individuals with sensitive skin may be more prone to irritation from sucrose stearate, so a patch test is recommended before using products containing this ingredient.

4. References:

- "Sucrose Stearate" in Cosmetics Info. https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sucrose-stearate

- "Sucrose Stearate" in The Eco Well. https://theecowell.com/ingredients/sucrose-stearate/

- "Sucrose Stearate" in Truth in Aging. https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sucrose-stearate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant

1. Definition Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is a naturally derived ingredient commonly used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and surfactant. It is a sodium salt of stearoyl glutamic acid, which is derived from vegetable oils and amino acids. This ingredient is known for its ability to stabilize formulations and improve the texture of skincare and haircare products.

2. Use:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is used in a wide range of cosmetic products including creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, and conditioners. It helps to create stable emulsions by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases, resulting in a smooth and uniform texture. Additionally, it can enhance the spreadability and absorption of active ingredients in skincare products, making them more effective.

3. Usage Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate:

When using products containing Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. This ingredient is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before applying products containing this ingredient to their face or body. If any irritation or allergic reaction occurs, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

4. References:

- Cosmeticsinfo.org. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate

- Personal Care Council. (2015). Safety Assessment of Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate as Used in Cosmetics. Retrieved from https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr714.pdf

- The Derm Review. (n.d.). Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. Retrieved from https://thedermreview.com/sodium-stearoyl-glutamate/

Alcohol

Other name: Ethanol; Grain Alcohol; Ethyl Alcohol

Function: Solvent, Masking, Antifoaming Agent, Viscosity Controlling, Antimicrobial, Astringent

1. Definition Alcohol:

Alcohol in cosmetics refers to the various types of alcohols that are commonly used in skincare and beauty products. These alcohols can be derived from natural sources or synthetically produced and are often included in formulations for their ability to dissolve other ingredients, act as preservatives, and provide a lightweight texture.

2. Use:

Alcohol in cosmetics is commonly used as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation, such as essential oils, fragrances, and active ingredients. It can also act as a preservative to help extend the shelf life of a product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and fungi. Additionally, certain types of alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, can provide emollient properties to help moisturize and soften the skin.

3. Usage Alcohol:

While alcohol can have beneficial properties in cosmetics, it is important to use products containing alcohol with caution. High concentrations of alcohol can be drying and irritating to the skin, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. It is recommended to patch test products containing alcohol before full application and to monitor how your skin reacts to ensure it does not cause any adverse effects.

4. References:

- Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products. CRC Press.

- Baumann, L. (2009). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. McGraw-Hill Professional.

- Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function. CRC Press.

Maltodextrin

Function: Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant

1. Definition Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide commonly used in cosmetics as a thickening agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. It is derived from starch, typically corn, rice, or potato, through a process of hydrolysis.

2. Use:

Maltodextrin is used in cosmetics to improve the texture and consistency of products, providing a smooth and creamy feel. It also helps to stabilize emulsions and prevent separation of ingredients. Additionally, maltodextrin can act as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin and helping to maintain hydration.

3. Usage Maltodextrin:

Maltodextrin is commonly found in creams, lotions, serums, and other skincare products. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, but individuals with sensitive skin may want to perform a patch test before using products containing maltodextrin to ensure they do not experience any adverse reactions. It is important to follow the recommended usage levels provided by the manufacturer to avoid potential irritation or other issues.

4. References:

- "Maltodextrin in Cosmetics: Functions and Applications" by A. M. Abd El-Aty et al. (2018)

- "Polysaccharides in Cosmetics" by R. M. Alvarez-Rivera et al. (2019)

- "The Role of Maltodextrin in Skincare Products" by S. K. Jain et al. (2021)